VALDARNO
Spring-Summer 2015
ACTIVITIES FINE LIVING HIDDEN GEMS FLAVORS
TESTIMONIALS
TRUDIE STYLER
AND
STING
“IL PALAGIO”, FIGLINE VALDARNO
We adore our home in Valdarno, our lovely Il Palagio. It is beautiful, tucked within the hills of Tuscany with many hectares of cypress and olive trees, picture-postcard views of yellows and hues of green. We also raise livestock and have an abundance of fruit trees and you can find our produce, wines, olive oil and honeys in our local Farm Shop close by. By the way, we are pleased to make Il Palagio available
Sting and Trudie Styler at Il Palagio (photo by Jaime Travezan)
PAOLO “PABLITO” ROSSI
1982 World Soccer Champion
Villa Casagrande at Figline Valdarno
for exclusive weddings, family holidays, culinary adventures and corporate or wellness retreats. We always enjoy a trip to our neighbors at Villa La Palagina for an aperitivo, or to Vecchio Texas ranch for an afternoon of horseback riding. We love to visit the mercato at Figline and afterwards spend time in the lovely courtyard at Villa Casagrande as it has such a charming atmosphere. Sting and I also enjoy a lunch or dinner at Locanda Casanuova as the experience is truly farm to table. Some of Sting's favorite local foods include a Tuscan vegetable soup or roast chicken grilled on the open spit, wheras my favorite meals are tagliarini con tartufi, roast lamb, green beans from our garden together with our red and white wines and on special days a delicious torta della nonna.
AGRITURISMO “POGGIO CENNINA”, BUCINE
My favorite place is Val D’Ambra from Colonna del Grillo to Levane, passing by Pietraviva, Ambra, Cennina and Bucine. This is a splendid area, with really marvellous countryside and Tuscan hills. Aside from welcoming guests at my farm Poggio Cennina, I also work on the 80 hectares of land, 13 of which are vineyards and more than 6 of which are olive groves. Because I love authenticity and tradition, my favorite dishes are Florentine style steak, pici pasta tomato and garlic sauce, Tuscan roasted
pork liver and fried chicken and rabbit. Our area is full of excellent osterias. I’ll name two: Trattoria La Querce in Levane and Osteria Dell’Acquolina in Terranuova Bracciolini are the best of the best to try traditional Tuscan foods.
Osteria dell’Acquolina at Terranuova Bracciolini 5
FAMILIES
AND
ACTIVITIES
PALEONTOLOGY MUSEUM - THE ORIGINS OF VALDARNO Located in a splendid fourteenth-century Franciscan convent surrounding a cloister with traces of age-old frescoes, the Montevarchi Paleontology Museum - with an annexed archeology section - was born in the early nineteenth century as part of the activities of the Valdarno Academy of Poggio. The initial group of fossils consisted of findings from the Valdarno region. In 1829, the museum was definitively opened to the general public and since then the exhibits have expanded significantly. The new exhibit, opened in late 2014, leads visitors on a journey millions of years back in time. The collection boasts unique and rare specimens: southern mammoths (Mammuthus meridionalis), the largest of which greets visitors at the bookshop, giant hyenas (Pachycrocuta brevirostris), the terrifying solitary predators similar to saber-toothed cats (Homotherium crenatidens), and the current European jaguars (Panthera toscana-gombaszoegensis). Also of note is the scientific relevance of the skull of Canis etruscus, a type of ‘wolf’ that hunted in herds in the Valdarno savannahs, the first specimen found of that species. The museum also features human beings.
Sediment found in the Campitello quarry near Bucine bears witness to the presence of hunter-gatherers over 200,000 years ago. Indeed, along with the remains of a female elephant (Palaeoloxodon antiquus) skeleton, researchers have discovered stone tools with residue of a mastic made of birch resin used to ‘glue’ the tools to their wooden handles - the oldest stone tools with handles in the world! Reservations required for guided tours; free Wi-Fi, accessible to the disabled.
"Gastone" the big elephant
Cost: € 6.00 (full price), € 3.00 (reduced price 6-18 years old), € 12.00 family ticket (2 adults and children). Hours: Thursdays to Sundays, 10:00 a.m. - 1:00 p.m. and 3:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m. Summer (June-August): Thursday 10:00 a.m. - 7 p.m., Friday 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 4 p.m.-10 p.m. (with local product tasting by reservation), Saturday/ Sunday 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 4 p.m. - 7 p.m. Photos by Giulia Lachi
AN
OUTING WITH
ROSSELLA
For information and reservations: Museo Paleontologico, Via Poggio Bracciolini, 36/40 - Montevarchi Tel: (+39) 055 981227, info@accademiadelpoggio.it
AND
POLDO
An enjoyable outing for the little ones (up to 12 years old) astride the pony Rossella and the donkey Poldo. After departing from Borgo Mocale, Castelfranco, we will visit the botanical path winding through splendid native plants and arrive for a tour of the stable where our animals live. The pleasant scenic path is surrounded by the natural beauty of the hills and the cliffs known as balze. Upon your return, we will greet you with bread served with our organic olive oil. Always available weather permitting. Reservations required. Duration: approx. 1 hour. Cost: € 15.00/child. For information and reservations: Borgo Mocale, Via Lama, 26 - Castelfranco di Sopra Tel: (+39) 055 9149302, info@borgomocale.it 6
FAMILIES
AND
ACTIVITIES
VALLOMBROSA If you want to escape the heat of summer in the valley, the best place to go is the Vallombrosa forest. At an altitude of almost 1000 meters, the forest is home to the Abbey of the same name of the Vallumbrosan monks, dating back to the eleventh century, and an arboretum featuring the most important Italian collection of plants intended for scientific and experimental use. Children will enjoy themselves playing in the large lawn in front of the Abbey. This is also the point of departure for several walks, including the Circuit of Chapels, towards Consuma pass or on Via del Paradisino towards Secchieta on the crest of the Pratomagno range.
Photo by Alicolor
Opening hours: Church: every day from 6:30 a.m. to 12 p.m. and from 3:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.; Monastery (church, cloister, ancient dining hall, ancient kitchen): July and August every Tuesday and Friday (closed holidays) at 10:30 a.m. guided tour with a monk. For information and reservations: Abbazia di Vallombrosa, Via San Benedetto, 2 - Vallombrosa Reggello Tel: (+39) 055 862251, info@monaci.org
DISCOVERING On this easy hike (around 8 km, 250 m climb) we will discover one of the most striking environments of the Valdarno region: the cliffs (in Italian called balze), the inspiration of many artists such as Leonardo da Vinci, who immortalized them in the background of the Mona Lisa. We will walk amongst the sandy peaks and pinnacles, snack on local traditional products at
LEONARDO DA VINCI’S
CLIFFS
Photos by Andrea Dini
the picturesque Osteria Le Balze and taste quality local wines at Fattoria di Certignano vineyard, all accompanied by an Environmental Excursion Guide! Every Thursday. Reservations required. Meet at Arnolfo Tower, Castelfranco di Sopra, 4:00 p.m. Duration: 4 hours. Minimum 4 participants. Wear comfortable shoes or hiking boots. Cost: € 25.00/person (children up to 12 years old € 15.00, up to 6 years old free). For information and reservations: Arnolfo Tower (parking lot 30 meters away) - Castelfranco di Sopra Ass. Geco Ambiente, Tel: (+39) 347 3587069 contatti@gecoambiente.org 7
FINE LIVING
SAVORING IL BORRO
With its medieval origins, Il Borro estate and village, with all their surrounding vineyards and woods, have always been home to illustrious families beginning with the Medici and then the Savoys and today the Ferragamo family. The houses of this picturesque village hold artisan and traditional craft workshops, as well as the Pinocchio room. L’Osteria del Borro restaurant offers sophisticated Tuscan cuisine in a refined atmosphere.
Two tours are provided daily from Monday to Friday: morning tour at 11:00 a.m., afternoon tour at 3:00 p.m. First, visitors watch a video that provides a panoramic view of Il Borro. Afterwards, they visit an exhibition of Ferruccio Ferragamo’s private collection “Engravings from the fourteenth to twentieth century” and move on to the cantina, where they can taste 1 white wine and 3 house red wines, accompanied by schiacciatina crackers with olive oil. The tour lasts for approx. 90 minutes. Each tour is limited to 40 participants. Cost: Monday to Friday € 15.00/person, also on weekends if booked 2 days in advance € 20.00/person (min. 10 persons). For information and reservations: Il Borro, San Giustino - Loro Ciuffenna Tel: (+39) 366 5601139, claudia.artini@ilborro.it
THE ROSE GARDEN OF MARVELS The “Carla Fineschi” Botanical Rose Garden has housed rose species and hybrids from all over the world since 1967. This non-profit private collection, established with the sole purpose of forming a scientific collection of living materials, is really one of a kind. Today, the garden boasts more than 6,000 rose varieties. The rose garden is open from the first Sunday of May to halfway through June (flowering depends on the weather), from 9:00 a.m. to sunset (last entry at 7:00 p.m.). No reservations required for individuals or small families and/or groups of friends. 8
For group visits reservations are required. Cost: entry requires a donation to the Foundation of € 6.00/person. Groups are kindly requested to pay the corresponding total amount at the entry gate. A guide (subject to availability) may be provided for an additional donation of € 2.50/person. For information and reservations: Località Casalone, 76 - Cavriglia Tel: (+39) 366 2063941 or 338 4062717 silvia.fineschi@ipp.cnr.it, info@rosetofineschi.it
FINE LIVING
HUNTING FOR TRUFFLES Every Wednesday (reservations required) visitors can participate in a real ‘truffle hunt’ with a truffle hunter and his dog, to discover these hidden treasures and learn about truffles and their natural environment in Italian and, by reservation at least 48 hours in advance, in English.
Recommended hours • until June 15 from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. • from June 16 to August 31 from 6:00 a.m. to 11 a.m. • after August 31 from 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
You can also combine “truffle hunting” with a truffle-based lunch in a nearby restaurant. Cost (full meal): € 30.00/person (min. 10 people). Private transportation required to reach the woodland area. 1) Truffle hunt for approx. 2 hours walking along a pleasant path, during which time you will learn about: the typical truffle habitat, the vegetation with which truffles grow in a symbiotic relationship, the truffle’s biological cycle, the dog - the real star - and the techniques for training him, and the search for in-season truffles. Cost: € 50.00/person 2) As above, followed by a tasting based on truffles and traditional products, with a selection of truffle salamis, toast with ‘truffle hunter’s’ spread, truffle bruschetta, truffle pecorino cheese served with balsamic vinegar and truffles, Tuscan pecorino cheese and prosciutto, all accompanied by good Tuscan wine. Cost: € 80.00/person.
TRUFFLE GATHERING PERIODS White truffle
(tuber magnatum pico)
September 10 to December 31
Bianchetto white truffle January 10 to April 31 (tuber albidum pico) Winter black truffle
(tuber melanosporum vitt)
Summer black truffle (tuber aestivum vitt)
November 15 to March 15 June 1 to October 31
For information and reservations: Meet at the Tourist Information Point, Strada Poggilupi, 200 m from the Valdarno highway exit - Terranuova Bracciolini Tartufitaly, Tel: (+39) 347 7485850, info@tartufitaly.it
CARESSING STATUES Sculpture is understood 40% with sight and 60% with touch. Try to enjoy sculpture with all the senses by caressing its shapes, discovering the delicate surface variations, experiencing the sculptor’s act of creation and becoming enveloped in the sensuous forms. Reservations recommended for tours in Italian and English. Reservations required for tours in German. Opening hours: Thursday to Sunday: 10:00 a.m. - 1:00 p.m. and 3:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m.; first Thursday of the month: 9:30 p.m. - 11:30 p.m. Cost: € 20.00 (1-3 people - for adults) + entry ticket € 3.00 (full price). Accessible to the disabled. Audio guides in Italian, English, German, Russian and Chinese are available to visitors free of charge. For information and reservations: Il Cassero for Italian sculpture from the 1800’s and 1900’s, Via Trieste, 1 - Montevarchi Tel: (+39) 055 9108274/2; info@ilcasseroperlascultura.it 9
COVER PHOTO BY RICCARDO SANESI
PRINT: LA ZECCA (LEVANE)
TRANSLATIONS: ELIZABETH LATHEY FARACINI
TEXTS: ANNA DE MARS
GRAPHIC DESIGN AND LAYOUT: BERNARDO MANETTI
BARBARA DE MARS CASTELFRANCO PIAN DI SCÒ TEL: (+39) 338 9255516 INFO@INDO-VALDARNO.COM WWW.INDO-VALDARNO.COM
SINGLE NUMBER FREE COPY COMMUNICATION OF THE VALDARNO TERRITORY
Firenze
1
Siena
20
19
7
15
4
2
8 9 12
18
5 14
3
17
10
16
6
11 A SOMMELIER AT YOUR SERVICE, AIS (pag. 13)
10 LORO CIUFFENNA AND GROPINA (pag. 12)
13
9 SURPRISING VISIT, MUSEO IL CASSERO, MONTEVARCHI (pag. 9)
8 HUNTING FOR TRUFFLES, TERRANUOVA BRACCIOLINI (pag. 9)
11
Arezzo
20 LOCANDA CASANUOVA, FIGLINE VALDARNO (pag. 15)
19 RISTORANTE IL CANNICCIO, REGGELLO (pag. 14)
18 PARCO CARABÈ, TERRANUOVA BRACCIOLINI (pag. 14)
OSTERIA LOCANDA IL CANTO DEL MAGGIO,
17 TERRANUOVA BRACCIOLINI (PAG. 14)
16 OSTERIA L'OCA SATOLLA, LATERINA (pag. 14)
6 IL BORRO, SAN GIUSTINO, LORO CIUFFENNA (pag. 8) 7 ROSE GARDEN, CAVRIGLIA (pag. 8)
ISTORANTE GIACOMO - RIFUGIO DEI SOGNATORI, 15 SRALTINO , REGGELLO (pag. 11)
14 COOKING CLASSES AND TASTINGS, CASTELFRANCO (pag. 12)
RCHEOLOGICAL DISCOVERY, PIEVE SAN QUIRICO 13 A CASTIGLION FIBOCCHI (pag. 13)
5 DISCOVERING DA VINCI'S CLIFFS, CASTELFRANCO (pag. 7)
4 VALLOMBROSA, REGGELLO (pag. 7)
3 PONY/DONKEY RIDE, BORGO MOCALE, CASTELFRANCO (pag. 6)
2 PALEONTOLOGY MUSEUM, MONTEVARCHI (pag. 6)
1 LABTIQUE, FASHION GROOVE, PIAN DELL'ISOLA, INCISA (pag. 2) 12 VILLA MASINI, MONTEVARCHI (pag. 13)
www.ristorantegiacomo.it
Ristorante GIACOMO is located in one of the greenest areas in Italy: VALLOMBROSA. Therefore, it offers an attractive environment with scenes of rare beauty. The restaurant fits perfectly within this natural frame, with its traditional Tuscan menu offering homemade yet refined food, and dishes featuring truffles and porcini mushrooms. For those who love good wine, there is also an enoteca. In the summer, guests can have lunch or dinner outside.
Loc. Saltino - Vallombrosa Reggello (FIRENZE) Tel. (+39) 055 86 21 85 - Cell. (+39) 333 64 55 159 mail: ristorantegiacomo@tiscali.it
HIDDEN GEMS
LORO CIUFFENNA AND THE PARISH CHURCH OF GROPINA One of the “most beautiful villages in Italy”, this picturesque hamlet of Etruscan origin along the Ciuffenna stream is definitely worth a visit. The stone houses built overhanging the river gully are not to be missed. The stone-paved streets lead us to the Clock Tower Gate. The oldest functioning watermill in Tuscany can be found in the very heart of the village. The mill is owned by a private party; to visit, please
call (+39) 055 9172319 (during meal times). Just outside the village is the Parish Church of Gropina, one of the most beautiful examples of Romanesque architecture with a basilican plan and a semi-circular apse. Also of note are the zoomorphic figures and geometric patterns decorating the capitals and the ambon inside the church. The Parish Church of Gropina is open every day from 10:00 a.m. to sunset. For tours, contact the Proloco organization at (+39) 055 9170136 (every day except Tuesdays from 10:30 a.m.
COOKING
Photos by Andrea Volante
to 12:30 p.m. and from 4:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m.). Loro Ciuffenna is also home to a small gem of contemporary art: the Venturino Venturi Museum, Piazza Giacomo Matteotti (every day except Tuesdays from 10:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and from 4:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m.). Cost: adults € 4.00, children up to 6 years old free, 7 to 12 years old € 2.00. From here, it is also easy to reach distinctive mountain communities such as San Clemente, Poggio di Loro, Chiassaia, Rocca Ricciarda, Gorgiti, Anciolina or Trappola, dotting the roads leading to the top of Pratomagno.
CLASSES AND TRADITIONAL PRODUCT TASTINGS
Do you want to have fun learning the best recipes of classic Tuscan cuisine? Every Wednesday from 4:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m., an expert chef will demonstrate and engage you in the secrets of the best dishes of the season (reservations are required by Tuesday at 3:00 p.m.). The course begins with preparation and, when possible, selecting raw ingredients from the garden. Together you will prepare appetizers, a fresh pasta dish and a second course or dessert. Afterward, the dishes you have prepared will be tasted along with a glass of excellent Chianti wine. Cost: € 60.00/person (min. 2 / max. 6 people). Instead, for those who are curious to discover more about the excellent typical local wines and products, tastings are held with the attendance of producers or sommeliers every Friday from 5:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. (reservations required by Thursday at 3:00 p.m.). Cost: € 20.00/person (min. 5 / max. 15 people). Hiking/photography courses are also available in combination with tastings. For information and reservations: Officina degli Aromi c/o Il Bellini Az. Agricola, Loc. San Godenzo - Castelfranco di Sopra Offerings available after May 24, 2015. Tel: (+39) 333 2585823, info@officinadegliaromilbellini.it 12
Photos by Riccardo Sanesi
HIDDEN GEMS
VILLA MASINI
Photo by Francesco Granelli
For information and reservations: Ass. per Villa Masini e la tutela del Liberty, Strada Comunale di Moncioni, 24 - Montevarchi Tel: (+39) 347 6109529
LOCATION OF THE OSCAR WINNING FILM “LIFE IS BEAUTIFUL” BY ROBERTO BENIGNI A villa - called “Grandfather’s House” by the locals of particular interest for two reasons: first, because it represents a splendid and rich example of the Liberty style in terms of the garden, which features a “lemon house”, as well as the interior, and also because it was the filming location of the Oscar winning film “Life is Beautiful” by director and actor Roberto Benigni. Some of the early scenes depict the exterior and interior of the villa. Tours of Villa Masini in Italian are held every Saturday from April 25 to June 27 from 3:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m., reservations required, max. 20 participants. Meet at 2:45 p.m. at the Piazzale Europa parking lot. Cost: € 5.00/person. Tours may also be organized in other languages upon request.
THE MYSTERIOUS WHEEL OF SAN QUIRICO Just outside the Valdarno town of Castiglion Fibocchi is the medieval parish church San Quirico in Alfano. There, a group of young archeologists found a “mysterious wheel”. It was initially thought to be the frame of an ancient rose window, but its weight and proportions ruled out this theory. And that is where the search for the meaning of this mysterious wheel began. Staff archeologists offer a free tour every Wednesday afternoon. Reservations required.
A SOMMELIER
Meet at Piazza delle Fiere in Castiglion Fibocchi at 5:00 p.m., tour of the archeological findings lab, which includes ceramics as well as the wheel. Private transportation required to reach the archeological site. Duration approx. 1.5 hours, min. 4 participants, max. 12 participants.
For information and reservations: Ass. San Quirico Archeologia, Piazza delle Fiere, Castiglion Fibocchi Offerings available from May 2015. Tel (+39) 347 0956211 or 339 2506220, info@sanquiricoarcheologia.org
AT YOUR SERVICE
A pleasant vacation in Tuscany - what would it be without tasting some good wine? We offer an excellent service to those who wish to immerse themselves in the culture of wine: during aperitif hours (around 6:30 p.m. to 8:00 p.m., or by reservation) our expert AIS (Italian Sommelier Association) sommeliers will go to your house and provide a lively and entertaining basic lesson - also in English upon request - on how to understand and appreciate local wines, beginning with the Denominazioni di Origine (“Designation Origins”), what is expressed by the land and how this can be “understood” in the tasting. At each tasting, 4 different wines (white and/or red) will be tasted. Cost: € 20.00/person (min. 8 people, from 1 to 7 people € 150.00/service). Reservation required at least 5 days in advance. For information and reservations: AIS Arezzo, Tel: (+39) 347 8901159, stefano.agnoletti@virgilio.it 13
FLAVORS
OSTERIA DELL'OCA SATOLLA Creatively interpreted Tuscan cuisine using authentic products. The large rich house appetizer and the anatra in porchetta roast duck are not to be missed! Large list of local and domestic wines. This tastefully decorated restaurant has air conditioning as well as a large parking lot. In the summer, guests dine in the attractive garden under the pergola. Via Vitereta, 59 - Laterina Closed Mondays (open by reservation upon request for groups of 6 or more people). Open for lunch and dinner. Tel: (+39) 0575 894650 N 43.527269 E 11.698508
OSTERIA LOCANDA IL CANTO DEL MAGGIO The Canto del Maggio garden magically opens up when spring is nearing its end, on the beautiful sunny days when the winds from Pratomagno blow warmer, allowing us to eat outside. We offer typical local cuisine made with products from our garden. We are famous for our Fornacina beef stew, but vegetarian and gluten-free dishes are also available.
For gourmands, the dark chocolate cake is just the right way to finish the meal.
Loc. La Penna, 30/D - Terranuova Bracciolini Closed Mondays. Open for dinner. Tel: (+39) 055 9705147 N 43.571375 E 11.615767
CARABÈ PARK
Strada Comunale di Piantravigne, 64 - Loc. Piantravigne - Terranuova Bracciolini. Open every day from 12:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m. Tel: (+39) 055 942478 N 43.585846 E 11.561404
RISTORANTE IL CANNICCIO Only 5 minutes from the best outlets in the area in Leccio, such as The Mall, Fashion Groove and The Smart Gallery, located near the imposing fortified residence Villa Torre del Castellano, all of those typical tastes of traditional Tuscan cuisine can be discovered in a simple and attractive environment. Try the housemade pici pasta with duck sauce, rabbit and the classic beef tagliata, all accompanied by excellent Tuscan wine. Loc. Torre del Castellano, 68 - Reggello Closed Sundays. Open for lunch and dinner. Tel: (+39) 055 863274 N 43.674204 E 11.455908 14
Do you want to spend the afternoon or after dinner in a unique environment surrounded by nature? The Carabè Park, easy to reach from all directions, is the ideal place to taste handcrafted ice cream and granitas. Extreme freshness, the proper selection of raw ingredients, carefully and personally crafted: this is the formula followed by “master” Antonio Lisciandro every day to make the ice cream of his - and your dreams. Try the Bronte pistachio or chocolate citrus ice cream.
nts
ura a t s e R
gs
tin s a t t Produc rts e c n o C
We cate i n u m m o c the no r a d l Va itory r r e ! t p p A Free
ts e k r a M
Hikes
s Outlet als v i t s e e f Villag tions a d o m Accom eums s u M Art&
www.indo-valdarno.com For information please call (+39) 338 9255516 Monday - Saturday 9:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. info@indo-valdarno.com