E XC LUS I V E M AG A Z I N E F O R T H E J E W E L L E R Y B US I N E S S I N T H E B A LT I C SE A R E G I O N
March 2016 (30)
FASTEST WAY TO THE BALTIC SEA REGION!
Europe‘s top show for gems & jewellery in autumn.
n i o 6! iss r a t 0 1 t m st th 2 n’ e g i 0 Do r r ril 3 to p bi A h i e: ex d l i n a de
Meet the international Gemworld in Munich.
www.gemworldmunich.com
2015
was another good year for European amber
jewellers. Good results were achieved – for yet another year in a row - thanks to such factors as the prices of raw material that had been high for the last few years. Prices are still high,
despite demand for amber products in China visibly falling over the year. Although so far there are no official statistics available that could confirm this economic success, the producers’ declarations and their intentions to expand further, for example by participating in exhibition events on different continents, are enough to take for evidence of that. Is 2016 going to be a continuation of these increasing trends? There is a lot of indication that it might, in fact, be weaker. There is worrying information coming from China, which has been the largest buyer of European amber products, about the slowing economy over there. It is bound to have a negative impact on the purchasing power of Chinese consumers. And unfortunately, the faith in amber’s magic power might not be enough here... We must remember that the Middle Kingdom, is currently the
The alternative – especially for those who have only bet on
largest producer of amber products – the factories over there
the Chinese horse – is looking for new outlets. Only, who will
have huge capital at their disposal, whereas the European pro-
diversify the factories and take a risk of betting on an unknown
ducers can only compete with them using design. Is it going
horse, for instance an Indian or American one, if the Chinese
to be enough to cope with such strong competition?
one is still in the lead...? Anna SADO
March 2016 (30)
CONTENT
Topicalities 8
Top jewellery blogs to follow
9
Promotion of the brand in a jeweler’s showroom
Tips
8 22
Russian Jewellery Report 14
New “Kaliningrad Amber Craftsmen’s Guild”
16
Kaliningrad amber factory generates a new amber market
Polish Jewellery Report 22
We get more satisfaction from life
26
Everything is still ahead of us
34
Gold Silver Time for the 17th time
36
The verdict of the jury of the Amberif design award
37
Amberif 2016
40
Amber association Le’amber Censortium
44
Jewellery with history-making
45
Generally about 2015
50
Art Gallery Putti takinf step towards new digital opportunities
53
Latvian assay office
54
Munich Jewellery Week
Lithuanian Jewellery Report
Latvian Jewellery Report
German Jewellery Report Danish Jewellery Report
40 54
56
Skt. Loye Award
60
Nobel Jewellery Prize 2015
63
More Baltic exhibitors at Precious
64
Do all Finns Hibernate?
Swedish Jewellery Report
Finnish Jewellery Report Chinese Jewellery Report 66
The World’s Largest Jewellery Market place in March
Ukraine Jewellery Report 68
Amber Extraction in Ukraine
Worldwide Jewellery Report 72
Official Price for raw amber by Kaliningrad Amber Combine
73
The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber
76
The Worldwide Silver Price
77
The Worldwide Gold Price
78
Global Jewellery Market: Innovations and Opportunities
84
Amber. Simply Amber
56
Book Review International Amber Association Report 86
The operational year of the IAA
88
BACTERIA in ancient flea may be ancestor of the Black Death
Inclusions Tools 90
THE LOST-WAX CASTING general rules
92
An Interview with Prof. B. KOSMOWSKA-CERANOWICZ
118
What Europeans this is inside a refugee backpack
Personality Cartoon
73 92
Other 119
Major jewellery trade fairs
Baltic Jewellery News / March 2016 (30) Paplaujos st. 5–7, LT-11342, Vilnius, Lithuania Tel. / Fax: +370 5 2608497; E-mail: info@balticjewellerynews.com Editor / Anna Sado / E-mail: office@balticjewellerynews.com Designer / DANA SMITIENE / Translators / VERTIMU GURU, / CIRCULATION 3 000 Reporter: Poland: J. Magiera / info@bugala.pl, A. Kucharski / info@bugala.pl; A.Sado / anna.sado@amber.com.pl; A. Klikowicz / ak@amber.org.pl Lithuania: V. Zygiene / info@balticjewellerynews.com; V. Pavalkiene / virginija.pavalkiene@lpr.lt; O. Guntoriute /info@balticjewellerynews.com; J. Ludaviciene / info@ambergallery.lt Finland: A. Altarriba / antonio.altarriba@pp.inet.fi; Russia: Y. Velikotsky/ velikotskiy.yury@mail.ru Latvia: Z. Putane / gallery@putti.lv Sweden: A. Alexon / asa.axelson@preciousfair.se Singapore: J. Seng / info@euromonitor.lt Distribution in the whole Baltic Sea Region. Copyright: Contents of “Baltic Jewellery News” are copyright. ISSN 2335-2132 Reproduction of material in part or in whole is not permitted in any form without the written authorization of the publisher. The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements and for the accuracy of the facts presented by the authors.
We invite all those whose interests are related to our goals to join our project. Only with the help of various discussions perspective of the jewellery business of the region can become clear and the magazine – better. Thank you for the cooperation!
19 Stycznia 5 st., 97-400 Belchatow, Poland Tel.: +48 505 178 270; +48 513 082 023 Fax +48 446 31 15 13 E-mail: beryl.jewellery@wp.pl
TOPICALITIES
TOP JEWELLERY BLOGS to follow By Odilija GUNTORIUTE As I walked arround the Gold Silver Time exhibition, I noticed two very active girls, who were trying out different jewellery and making photos. I thought to myself – “Where have I seen them?“ It was Agata and Katarzyna – two bloggers from PICA PICA Jewellery Blog. As they present themselves they are cuckoo about jewellery. One of their goals is to inspire. Well they have inspired me to share with you which jewellery blogs are my favourite. PICA PICA JEWELLERY BLOG Only few people are aware how these tiny pieces of art are created. Often, it’s a really complex, multistage process. That’s why Agata and Katarzyna, two young ladies from Poland, are sharing with their readers some practical knowledge. They inspire, advise and interview designers. Agata has graduated from the University of Fine Arts in Poznań with a Master’s Degree in Sculpture Studies and from the Warsaw School of Economics with a major in Public Relations. Katarzyna has graduated from the University of Fine Arts in Poznań with a Master’s Degree in Photography. Their attitude towards jewelry is more professional than ‘pretty, pretty, shiny, shiny!” They know that jewelry can be talked about in an attractive way. They also believe that jewelry is more than flashy accessories – it’s a lifestyle. › www.picapica.pl
KLIMT02 Klimt02 is not only a web-site about jewellery is a platform for contemporary jewellers to connect and spread their message. It is very pleasing to see the level of proffesional work that is put to spread the message that „jewellery is an artistic discipline equal to any other yet at the same time reflects other art forms.” If jewellery is your passion Klimt02 newsletters won’t burden your email box on the contrary you will find the latest information on upcoming events, released books and invitations to participate in competitions. Good quality photos promoting jewellers’ work is a signature of this blog, not only should you seek to get inspirations from Klimt02, this platform is where you want your work to be displayed.
› www.klimt02.net
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8
GEM GOSSIP
Prize. Each year they name awards for: Chemistry, Physics,
This is probably the most popular jewellery blog and you
Medicine, Literature, Economy and Peace. In page 60 you can
could find it in every top list. It does not divide itself as only
find new winners of the Nobel Jewellery Prize.
Danielle appreciates what is new and what is old. Thus the jew-
THE COURT JEWELLER
ellery blog focuses on jewellery trends, antique and period jew-
You just must visit Blog of Ella Kay “The Court Jeweller“ if
ellery, celebrity jewellery, as well as exclusive designer inter-
you are interested in royal jewellery. Ella weekly covers where
views. It is also a hub for gemstone and jewellery education,
royal family members were noticed and comments on jewe
considering Danielle’s Graduate Gemologist studies through the
llery that was worn. There are quite a few interesting jewellery
Gemological Institute of America. With five years experience as
history articles and this blog shares stories about royal fam-
head gemologist and appraiser at a local antique jewellery store,
ily members jewellery collections. My own favourite
she has most recently decided to pursue writing and consult-
part of this blog is Jewel detective game. Ella shares
ing full-time. Her blog is the place that you should check if you
a photo from different historic balls and asks if
want your jewellery be noticed by jewellery addicts world wide.
readers can identify the jewellery that royals are wearing in the picture. Definitely check the comments section to learn more about royal jewellery. Don’t forget to follow The Court Jeweller facebook page its really worth it. › www.thecourtjeweller.com
ART JEWELRY FORUM Just as Klimt02, AJF is not only a professional platform, they advocate for contemporary art jewellery since 1997. They are activists that organize funding for actors in the contemporary art jewellery field and form alliances to further their goals. Thus you can be sure they know what they are talking about in their blog. The Baltic Jewellery News have printed their articles, interviews and reviews before, because their work
› www.gemgossip.com
is professional and entertaining to our readers. If you want to be up to date with the contemporary art jewellery subscribe,
DIAGONAL/ART PROJECTS
follow AJF on social media and check their bookstore.
Diagonal is actually a Swedish art initiative founded in 2010 by Sanna Svedestedt & Karin Roy Andersson. These two jewellers spark with their charm and energy, which could be felt in their blog. Here you can find not only Sanna’s and Karin’s art initiatives, they also announce other initiatives. You can see not only jewellery, but also find where thay got their inspirations from. My own favourite project is the Nobel Jewellery
› www.artjewelryforum.org
› www.diagonalartprojects.com
www.balticjewellerynews.com
9
TOPICALITIES
contemporary or antique jewellery blog as it is usually done.
PROMOTION OF THE BRAND in a jeweler’s showroom By Justyna MAGIERA Jeweler’s showroom, like any other company who wants to exist on the market for the longest time possible, must promote its brand.
THE
positioning of the brand visualization (the logo) in the consumers’ consciousness is so much important. The most crucial thing, then, is to make the logo meet two criteria: 1. be recognizable and 2. bring positive associations.
purpose of such promotion is not only to support
How to embed the logo in the consciousness of our customers?
the immediate sale but also t create the strong
and long-term market position. The larger the company is, the more intensive and systematic promotional activities are
Huge syndicates spend really big money on TV commer-
required. However, we cannot forget that that branding is not
cials and press advertisements. However, such solutions are a
a competence of huge market chains only, and the owners
complete mistake for the smaller, local companies. Such firms
of individual shops selling jewelry shall also remember
should search for brand vehicles somewhere else. The smaller
about it.
the circle of customers, the more effective the promotion shall
In order to have an efficient promotion of a jeweler’s show-
turn to be. And, of course, the cheaper! Therefore, it is best to
room one shall carefully connect many different factors. The
focus on your real customers at first and build a reliable and
added values of kind service, availability of after-sales ser-
strong brand consciousness in their minds.
vice, reliable advertising message are of huge importance.
The simplest way is, of course, to use the trademark pack-
Unfortunately, we often tend to forget about one more crucial
age. Everybody knows that jewelry shall be packed accord-
thing – a human being is a visualize, and the dominating type
ing to its value. Therefore, do not economize on packing and,
of our memory is the visual memory. That is why the proper
first of all, do not resign from your company logo imprint on
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10
whenever they clean their jewelry and, at the same time, they
jewelry, of course) that the customer takes home with them.
shall strengthen the company’s (positive) image in their mind.
Obviously, if we want to make the logo stay in the customer’s
More and more jeweler’s showrooms choose such products.
consciousness, it shall be visible on the package. Thanks to
Firstly, because they are not expensive, and secondly, they
that the customer shall be in touch with it for longer than just
are original and practical. In this group of products we shall
during the visit in the showroom. The printing costs
find some universal ones i.e.
are not big so it is not connected with paying high
the things that shall match
additional costs.
each type of jewelry, and some more professional ones, which are designed
The logo can made visible on almost every
to match only the selected
type of package – so it is not just the expen-
types of jewelry. You choose.
sive ones that give you this opportunity. Even
Yet another step ahead
the cheapest paper boxes can be
can be made with the addi-
personalized. However, you
tional method of sales – the
should remember that the
Gift Coupons. Similar task is
more exclusive the box, e.g.
performed by the Regular
timber or leather, the greater
Customer Card which shall
value it shall present to the
make you be able to express
customer, too. So, there is a
your appreciation to the cus-
big chance that the package
tomers who visit your show-
shall serve the customer lon-
room more often than others.
ger, e.g. as a jewel case. Thanks
Let’s not forget about placing a visible logo inside the
to that, the customer shall have a
showroom as well, locating it both on the window dis-
longer contact with our logo and
plays and inside your shop. The customer shall remember
they shall see it more than just on the moment of purchase
and consolidate our logo much faster when they
which, as a result, shall help to achieve the ultimate goal: our
see it more frequently and when it appears in many differ-
trademark shall be embedded in the customer’s memory the
ent ways.
best possible. Apart from the packages, we can use a number of other products which, when given to the customer, shall efficiently promote our brand for a long time. This can surely be popular things but it is good to consider whether the gift matches such a sophisticated and exclusive thing as jewelry is. Isn’t it worth to choose something more original? Well, after all, is going to be our promotional gadget so it must be, just like the company it promotes – the best! Like the logo marked packages, the additional product purpose is to make the customer have the most frequent contact with the logo. Even better solution is to choose an object that is directly or indirectly connected with the main product, jewelry in this case. It must be a utility thing as only such an object shall guarantee that the customer comes back to it again and again. A mug
As we see, there are many different ways to do your brand-
or a tea-cup with the logo printed on is an ideal vehicle for a
ing. The final form depends on the creativity and the bud-
selected brand of tea or coffee, but jewelry can be matched
get to be spent on the project. Let’s remember, however,
with, let’s say, a jewelry cleaning cloth or cleaning liquid with
that whatever type of measures we take, we must act con-
your logo on. Undoubtedly, that is going to be a much better
sequently, so the long-term actions only can guarantee the
solution. The customer shall be reminded about our company
expected results.
www.balticjewellerynews.com
11
TIPS
the packing materials. It is the package (apart from the very
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RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
New “Kaliningrad Amber Craftsmen’s Guild”:
WE SEEK… WE WANT… WE AIM… By Yuri VELIKOTSKY, Chairman of the Board – Chief Workmaster of Kaliningrad Amber Craftsmen's Guild
On 11 November 2015, a new regional public association “Kaliningrad Amber Craftsmen’s Guild” was founded in Kaliningrad. The western region of Russia has a great many of amber craftsmen. Nobody can tell an exact number. Some of them are members of the Union of Russian Artists, others are a part of the Association of a Creative Profession, many work for large and small jewellery companies, yet, the majority are independent craftsmen. They do not joint any associations and try to deal with emerging challenges on their own.
All
of us have faced the major problem – acquisition of
A guild of amber craftsmen used to exist in Königsberg some
high quality raw materials for our work. For a long
time ago, and we hope for the revival of the old traditions of
time, we had been trying every level of solution to this prob-
the guild brotherhood.
lem. Finally, a faint hope sprang up in 2014 – Kaliningrad Amber
Officially, we came into the world on 11 November 2015.
Plant began selling high quality amber at an affordable price
We seek to unite amber craftsmen of Kaliningrad on the
to us. Stone-cutters were happy to get down to work, many
basis of mutual assistance and understanding, to look for ways
of them managed to create noteworthy works.
for developing our creativity in integral association.
Though, as is often the case, this opportunity was cut
We want to deal with common problems in a friendly
off in prime. There came along some craftsmen who were
environment and to jointly seek ways to overcome them. This
unhappy about not being able to buy amber for various rea-
equally concerns purchase of raw materials, participation in
sons. Besides, amber unexpectedly became a point of interest
fairs and exhibitions, building relations with other creative
for artists who had been engaged solely in painting all their
unions and public organisations.
life and had nothing to do with the stone-cutting, however,
We aim at active promotion of our craftsmen’ achieve-
now they demanded the stone. Moreover, amber suddenly
ments via print media, TV, the Internet, thereby, heightening
became a means of exerting pressure on craftsmen. Someone
the society’s interest in our creative work.
handled the paperwork for purchase of stone, and someone –
We are making our first steps, but we hope to have an
did not. For these reasons, there emerged conflicts among
opportunity to strongly express ourselves at the nearest exhi-
craftsmen. And, while they were in reciprocal reproaches and
bitions both in Kaliningrad and outside of our region, by pre-
sorted out – who was right and who was wrong – Kaliningrad
senting new and fascinating amber works therein to the audi-
Amber Plant began selling amber by auctions only and, thus,
ence for approval.
virtually deprived stone-cutters of the opportunity to officially
We were born on 11 November. This is the day when the
acquire raw materials for their activities.
Orthodox Church celebrates the memory of the Holy Martyr
All of these events have led to the formation of the initia-
Anastasia the Roman. The legend tells she was a beauty, a true
tive group, consisting of prominent and experienced artists,
divine beauty that noticeably caused her sacrificial death. The
who claimed “we need our own, fully independent organi-
Righteous Anastasia should become the holy patroness of
sation to unite solely craftsmen - stone-cutters.” The name
amber craftsmen and help us in creating the most beautiful
was born instantly – “Kaliningrad Amber Craftsmen’s Guild.”
works of the solar stone. We want to believe it will be so.
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14
Amber decanter and two glasses "George", author Konstantin Bushmelev (2015) Alexander Korolev, easter Egg „Faberge imitation“
Necklace "Mistress of the river" from the "Prussian honey"; style – Alexander Yuritsyn, Design and work of Lana Egorova
experience with a big involvement. The best experts and judges of amber who create fashion on amber, set tendencies of development of whole branch, offering opportunities for new cooperation, come to the Factory. Of course, the Factory is pleased to support such a dialogue. “Such cooperation is of great cultural significance not only for the Factory and Russia in general, but also for the entire world amber industry, – says Mikhail Zatsepin, General Director of Kaliningrad Amber Factory Ltd. – Projects that are already being implemented or will soon be implemented in cooperation with foreign partners, are an invaluable contribution that Mikhail ZATSEPIN, General Director of Kaliningrad Amber Factory Ltd.
each makes to the development of the amber industry and the creation of new areas of development and popularization of this amazing «solar stone» not only in the Baltic States, but through-
Report by KALININGRAD AMBER COMBINE
out the world. Our common goal – is to make sure that amber is
C
loved and appreciated in all over the world. After all, amber – a
reation of Russian amber brand and promoting it
unique, lively and energizing stone, from which you can create
both domestically and internationally – this is one of
unique products of different applications».
Kaliningrad Amber Factory main tasks. Today, we can
In 2015, Kaliningrad Amber Factory received several pres-
safely say that the new strategy of active promotion of amber
tigious awards. Among them: the highest award of the Creative
in Russia produced a new wave of love for amber among the
Union of Artists of Russia – Gold medal «For contribution to
population. Cooperation of Kaliningrad Amber Factory with
the national culture» and the International Prize «GLOBAL
the leading Russian jewellers and designers of different styles
BUSINESS BRAND» in the nomination «Global Business Legend:
and the directions gave new life to a solar stone. Production
Made in Russia» for significant contribution to the strengthen-
of a wide range of products – from furniture pieces to jew-
ing of the strategic potential of the country, increasing pros-
elry, accessories and artwork, was started. Today amber as
perity of its people.
the Russian brand can be met in different segments, includcosmetology, cultural heritage and modern stone-cutting art.
CREATIVE ASSOCIATION OF YOUNG DESIGNERS «RUSSIAN AMBER»
Few years ago it was only a dream.
Creative Association RUSSIAN AMBER appeared at the end
ing fashion, space decorating, industrial tourism, medicine and
of 2014. It is possible to tell that the young designers which are
CREATION OF RUSSIAN AMBER BRAND
in love with amber created a new history of amber. RUSSIAN
Cooperation with designers, jewellers, art artists, partici-
AMBER became a «creative laboratory» for the representatives
pation in exhibition activity, organization of creative compe-
of the Russian creative class, giving them the opportunity to
titions and carrying out museum expositions in Moscow and
get acquainted with the unique material and to realize their
other regions of Russia, creation of the art objects and unique
creative projects.
exhibits which have cultural value is material expression of
Young designers not only fell in love with the amber, but
the policy of the factory directed on creation of the Russian
also managed to inspire other creative Russian individuals to
school of processing of amber and its promoting among the
use amber in their works. They also helped people who work
main groups of the population.
professionally with amber to take a new look on a solar stone.
In this work the role is played by partners from the dif-
One of the most significant projects in which participated
ferent countries, including Lithuania and Poland, wo impart
RUSSIAN AMBER, was the project «AMBER 3.0.» It was aimed at
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16
Photos by Aleksandra SHALAGINOVA
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
KALININGRAD AMBER FACTORY generates a new amber market
Kaliningrad Amber Factory. Established in 1947. The only enterprise in the world that produces the 50-million-year-old Baltic amber. Your reliable partner for over 65 years.
www.ambercombine.ru 238508 Russia, Kaliningradskaya oblast, Yantarniy Poselok, Balebina str. 1. tel: +7 (4012) 31 08 55 e-mail: mail@ambercombine.ru
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
the development of the Russian market of amber processing. The project essence – a new approach to production, where the designer, marketer and manufacturer company act as a single entity. The designer creates a product idea, marketer develops the concept of marketing and sales promotion, and production worker – does everything to make the transition from theory to practice minimally painful for the original artistic and marketing plan. Young designers from Creative association acted in the
of raw amber has not changed for several years. First of all, the
project as designers. The Association of processors of amber
results of the auction allowed to determine true market value
was responsible for production part. For the market, i.e. – the
of the raw amber extracted by the enterprise. The manage-
Kaliningrad association of marketing specialists. An ultimate
ment understood that there are real prerequisites for increas-
goal of the project – giving of new actual image to amber and
ing the price of amber, and auction demonstrated that – the
emergence in the Russian market of new youth amber brands.
initial price on a number of lots has increased on average four
“The decision to unite ideas of young designers, experience of
times. Until recently, the price was established on the basis of
the amber masters owning skills of processing of amber and the
the cost spent on manufacturing, on payment of taxes, etc.
latest marketing strategies arose within global work on creation
Now the Factory approached amber cost to market cost and
of new image of amber — told General Director of Kaliningrad
formed the price on the basis of the results of the auction. As
Amber Factory Ltd. Mikhail Zatsepin. – Our task — to radically
its task the Factory sees all-round development of Russian
change the attitude to amber and to offer consumers the updated
amber branch, and therefore – the support of domestic pro-
range of products. Without exaggeration I can tell that today we
ducers. Therefore, the management very attentively analysed
do not only create a new product, but also we form the new mar-
results of auction and differentially approached adjustment
ket of products of amber”.
of the prices of amber of different fractions.
Following the results of 2015 RUSSIAN AMBER is recognized
CREATING A SYSTEM FOR ATTRACTING AND TRAINING OF PERSONNEL
as the winner in the nomination “Discovery of the Year” in an annual rating of one of the largest Russian media holdings.
Development of Russian amber industry and moderniza-
THE VALUE OF AMBER HAS INCREASED
tion of the Kaliningrad Amber Factory require significant high-
Following the order of the President of the Russian
qualified staff resources. Enhancing the prestige of the profes-
Federation to withdraw from the export raw materials model,
sion – one of the priority directions to overcome the shortage
and being aware of its responsibility as a monopolist on amber
of human resources in the industry. In this regard, the task of
extraction in the creation of a transparent, nationally oriented
creating a system of training and involvement of personnel,
sales market, Kaliningrad Amber Factory radically revised the
further training of employees of the enterprise is highlighted.
sale of raw materials policy. In October 2015 the Factory carried
In the spring in Kaliningrad the unique educational pro-
out the first auction on sale of amber which was followed by
gram of training of specialists for amber branch is started.
a substantial increase in cost for amber. Prior to this, the price
The Association of producers and processors of amber branch “Russian amber” and the Western branch of a RANEPA will be engaged in implementation of the program. The Kaliningrad Amber Factory also supported this idea, the management highly appreciated an initiative and especially noted the practical involvement provided by the program. Design, development, production and the organization of test sales of new unique collections taking into account tendencies of world design and fashion will become a kernel of educational process Key feature of the program is that each educational module considers requirements of the enterprises, is developed strictly according to the specification from representatives of amber business and will be is put into operation after careful
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18
is located. Exactly from here the way of one of the most sur-
training for the created functional places.
prising creations of the nature, a symbol of the Kaliningrad
The management of Amber Factory believes that new
region and property of all country – the Baltic amber – begins.
approach in training of experts for amber branch will allow to
Hundreds of thousands tourists a year come from all corners
create unique domestic schools of processing of a solar stone.
of Russia and different countries in order to look at the business card of the region – the Baltic amber and to the most amber
ILLEGAL EXTRACTION
place in the world – the Kaliningrad Amber Factory located
It is no secret that the problem of illegal production is
in the settlement Amber. Guests with great interest visit the
especially actual for the Kaliningrad region. Illegal getters of
museum of the enterprise and observation deck of Amber pit,
amber here dig day and night dig up fields in search of a stone,
overlooking the world’s largest Primorsky pit, where extraction
leaving behind the holes reminding lunar craters.
is carried out. Here it is possible to try on medieval dresses and
Kaliningrad Amber Factory consistently advocates the
to feel the connection of times – from the Teutonic Order up to
development of a legal amber extraction. By its actions, the
now, and also to find own piece of amber in «the blue earth».
illegal mining not only affect the market price of amber, which
There is also Amber pyramid – a unique construction for build-
adversely affects the conscientious recyclers of «solar stone»,
ing of which 800 kg of “a solar stone” were spent.
but also causes irreparable harm to the environment.
Amber Factory for many years is among the three most
Today in Russia at the legislative level criminal liability
popular tourist objects in the region.
for illegal production is imposed. Such measure will allow
Everyone who visits Factory undoubtedly takes away many
to reduce significantly volumes of illegal production and to
good impressions. After all, not without reason amber is called
reduce number of the citizens involved in this business. For
“gift of the sun” and is ascribed many surprising properties. It
someone it will be a warning and will deter from participation
is considered that to give amber as a gift means to wish good
in illegal production of amber.
luck, and nowadays in many countries amber – is a sacred stone which besides possesses curative properties. Wear amber,
AMBER ATTRACTS TOURISTS FROM AROUND THE WORLD
admire it, and it will surely give you pleasant emotions, health and good luck!
Those large-scale changes that have occurred in recent years in the Russian amber industry, had a positive impact on the tourist flow. Kaliningrad region – a unique subject of the Russian Federation. Being the westernmost region of the country and the European enclave, the area has great potential and rich history. Undoubtedly, a symbol of the Kaliningrad region is amber – property of the region and pride of the country. After all, exactly there are about 90 percent of world reserves of “a solar stone”, and exactly here, in the settlement Amber, the unique enterprise for amber production – Kaliningrad Amber Factory
Kaliningrad Amber Combine is organising the First Annual Economic Amber Forum – 2016 The Forum is planned to be the effective platform for the joint development of amber industry. The Forum will address the latest trends and solutions in extraction and processing of amber, new vectors of amber use, market channels, and so on.As part of the Forum, there will take place the exhibition for presenting Russian and foreign amber articles and technologies, sharing best practices, establishing a comfortable platform for effective communication among exhibitors, the State, business environment, and end users.
Exhibitors will be able to enjoy a cultural programme which will involve art installations, concerts, performances, tours, closed evening parties, and more. For participation, please contact us by e-mail: pr@ambercombine.ru or by phone: +74012310855; +79622607001 Date: September 2016 Host city: Svetlogorsk Site: Amber Hall
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19
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
checks and tests. Actually, it is system of target personnel
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Although they have been creating jewellery for 25 years, it was last year that turned out to be a breakthrough in their career. Today they say that they feel more satisfied with their work, however, in order to achieve this they have had to revise many decision that they had made earlier.
WE GET MORE SATISFACTION FROM LIFE –
an Interview with Jolanta and Andrzej KUPNIEWSKI By Anna SADO
petitions – both individually and together. Probably
everybody knows who you are and what kind of jewellery you create. Andrzej: We have an impression that we’ve been on fire for 25 years (laughs). At least this is what we keep hearing everywhere. The world is changing dynamically, and we have to keep up with those changes if we want to be noticed. That’s why in the last few years we have decided to revise certain assumptions and as a result of that we have limited our trade activity to a gallery with a workshop. Thanks to that we have been able to concentrate on what is most important to us, that is conscious brand building, and at present, rather strengthening the brand of our jewellery and gallery. We didn’t have to wait long for the results: our style has become recognisable, the gallery is the place of many interesting conversations and the origin of a number of artistic concepts. We have more satisfaction from life, and this is reflected in our works. Jolanta: For the last four years we have been very
engaged in the activity of the Goldsmithing Artists’ Association (GAA), an organisation affiliating Polish artists and jewellery designers. Andrzej is the Chairman of the Programme Board, and I work in the management. As a result of that our life, both private and professional – has become even faster. While initiating new projects for the GAA, as well as taking part in exhibitions, competitions and workshops we make many contacts with related creative environments, as well as museums and galleries. Since then, we have been exhibiting at trade fairs more often. Andrzej: All of this is really fascinating and gives us inspi-
ration for new activities. Our increased activity in the environment has also resulted in better recognition of our works and the new, often non-jewellery inspirations have led to interesting works, as the prizes have shown. 2015 brought us – together and individually – two distinctions and one prize in competitions organised at the leading trade fairs in Poland – Amberif, Ambermart and Gold Silver Time. We also had an individual exhibition at a prestigious gallery YES in Poznań – thanks to Jola who was awarded the first prize in the contest for GAA members “Gramy 925”( 925 Grams). Yes, it was definitely a good year for us. Thanks to those prizes and distinctions many people have found out that Jola creates jewellery. Jolanta: And to think that I was the first teacher of the
craft to my big, goldsmithery family (laughs). Including Andrzej (laughs). I had taken time off active goldsmithery work because up until recently we had slightly different
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23
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
R
ecently you have been on fire, winning prizes in com-
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
assumptions concerning our work. From the moment when
One of the most recognisable of your clients is
we started running only one gallery with a workshop, I have
Elżbieta Dzikowska, who was also the star of the show at
had more time to realise my own projects too. Two years ago
the Amberif 2015 trade fair. Where did the idea to invite
my goldsmithery activity was limited to supporting Andrzej
her come from?
in designing and creating custom made jewellery for the cli-
Jolanta: We met Elżbieta Dzikowska, a charismatic Polish
ents who preferred my style. Participating in competitions
traveller and photographer, at a vernissage of her photog-
began together with our membership in the GAA: I felt that
raphy. After a year we created a large jewellery collection
as a member of the management I have to set a good exam-
for her, framing her rare stones, amber or her extraordinary
ple. It turned out much better than I’d expected (laughs).
boulders, whose value was not in the price, but the beauty
The works signed with your name - Kupniewska and
of the findings. Very quickly it turned out that we perceive
Kupniewski have very similar character and style – do
jewellery in a similar way: we don’t acknowledge any limits in
you perceive jewellery in the same way?
scale (laughs). We have designed about a hundred necklaces,
Andrzej: We have been married for 30 years, we are
bracelets and rings for her so far. Some of them have been
together 24 hours a day and we live in a unique symbiosis –
featured in her impressive album “The Jewellery of the World”.
it is also reflected in the style of our jewellery. For years, we
Andrzej: The show of our jewellery at the Amber Look
have been designing jewellery in various shades of grey,
Gala in Gdańsk was based on her outstanding photographs
through to black. The surface is usually subdued with deli-
from her journeys, to be more precise the world seen from
cate Bliks. We like to perceive jewellery as a monochro-
above, from a hot air balloon. That was the title of the show
matic picture, with thick grain. Most of our design works
too. We have created a jewellery collection with ethnic,
are created in our workshop, first in a sketchbook, then we
simplified and geometric shapes, inspired by a drawing of
have a brainstorming session: we draw the theme, details
a dried up river. We converted Elżbieta Dzikowska’s inge-
are created, only to be reduced to the necessary minimum
nious photo frames into jewellery. In order to add personal
a moment later. Minimum is actually one of our favourite
character to the catwalk I composed music together with
words (laughs). Although we look at jewellery in a similar
my friend Grzegorz Zyśk. Elżbieta Dzikowska’s reaction to
way, Jola’s projects are more delicate, perceived by a female
my request to take part in the show showed typical for her
eye, and I prefer particular, often solid forms. They are the
sense of humour, she said: “Finally I’ll get to be a model!”.
resultant of our interests and personalities.
The professionalism and impetus of the Amber Look encour-
You also run the Project Gallery together: for over
aged us to accept the invitation to take part in the event in
20 years of its activity its character has changed a bit.
2016 as well. A new, dynamic collection of jewellery to be
Today it is a gallery with jewellery by various Polish crea-
presented on the catwalk is already being created.
tors and designers, combined with a workshop.
What have you prepared?
Andrzej: Currently, the gallery follows the workshop’s
The tile of the collection is Asymmetry and is meant to
rhythm. In the many years of its existence we have gathered
emphasise the asymmetric cuts of the dresses by Joanna
a considerable group of customers who visit our gallery reg-
Weyna. In this way we want to refer to the show we pre-
ularly: they like the style of our jewellery, but also the atmo-
pared together last year, by highlighting the characteristic
sphere of the place. Currently it is one of the few galleries
feature of her outfits, and at the same time summarise our
in Poland where conversations about jewellery, art, music
style which for the last few years has been evolving towards
or photography virtually never stop. In this way we try to
combining various branches of art and inspiring creators,
foster good old traditions, which we had a chance to learn,
with whom we have had the pleasure of cooperating. The
and which today seem to be going out of style. Actually,
shoes for the show were created at Adam Kuty’s workshop
that also refers to galleries that seem to disappear one after
and are handmade, according to old traditions, but with
another. In a time of commercialism and product seasonal-
a new concept in patterns, which will add a bit of grunge
ity our ambition is to spread the love of unique jewellery.
style to the silhouettes in light fabrics of strong colours. The
Jolanta: After years of cooperation with many artists,
whole will be completed with hats by a famous designer
whose works are still in our product range, we realise the
from Gdańsk, Beata Miłogrodzka – modernistic but at the
majority of orders ourselves. We regularly create projects
same time, of course, asymmetric. All elements have been
dedicated to individual clients – as this is how we under-
selected so as none of them dominates, but rather they cre-
stand jewellery exclusivity.
ate a coherent whole.
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24
And what will the jewellery be like?
The collection for the Amber Look 2016 will be a continuation of the trend from last year: the assumptions are, typically for us, ethnic, but with a visible industrial accent, sharp cuts in silver and smoothed line of stones – we have combined amber with other stones that complement its colour. This, in turn is an early indication of our show next year, which will be prepared by Jolanta and our daughter Nina, together with her friend Dario Dalessandro. “The young� are the authors of a popular amber tampon, the first prize in the Amberif Design Award 2014, and they want to show that they have not wasted either the prize or time.
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
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POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT www.balticjewellerynews.com
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POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
“A Small Town Jigsaw” (including 4 brooches) – silver, anodized aluminium. 1st prize in the 1st International Competition of Goldsmithery Art in Legnica – “Colour”, 1988 Legnica
EVERYTHING IS STILL AHEAD OF US – an Interview with Zofia and Witold KOZUBSKI 35 years of designing and creating small forms is a lot of time. Does the way of thinking about jewellery rooted in the 1980s. stand a chance of succeeding today?
in our “bird-like” works we were able to realise the concept of the competition whose theme was “Circus”. It also made it possible for us to refer to the so-called “Polish poster trend”. We have paid homage to the renowned poster maker, Janusz Młodożeniec who operated a similar means of expression in
Interview by Anna SADO
his works. In this case our work was not a sure-fire hit. In our case we always look for a good idea first, which fits
You won the first price in the last year’s edition of
in the theme of a competition – we think what message we
the Presentations competition – you made your works of
should include and in which form to express it. Only then do
your favourite material – aluminium.
we look for a material or technology that will let us realise
That’s right, many of our projects are made of alumin-
the idea in the best possible way. We often take part in com-
ium, as this material gives unlimited possibilities of chang-
petitions as we like artistic challenges, and the technological
ing the colour. By using a soft, colourful line, which is used
ones even more. Such an approach motivates us to discover new ways of expression. Is there always a message?
“Have a Good Life” – earrings: paper, silver, steel cable. 1st prize in the competition “Towards Japan”, 1988 Warsaw, Bożena Marka’s Gallery
Yes. There always has to be something. Not art for art’s sake. What is the message in birds? We love them, feed them, watch them. They impress us as a symbol of freedom. Two most important distinguishing marks of your jewellery: aluminium and birds. Birds is made of aluminium because it is light and colourful, just like them. Unfortunately the material has become a bit a bane for us. Firstly because we’re associated only with it, even though we work with other materials. Secondly because clients are apprehensive as they still don’t really know it. Yes, they like the jewellery, but when they hear aluminium, sometimes they
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28
assert that it is a craft. Thus we are somehow hanging in a
perspective, we come to the conclusion that the goldsmith-
vacuum, a bit as if we didn’t exist… We don’t want to sound
ery environment has not managed to “teach” the Polish soci-
like grumblers, though – we like making jewellery and we will
ety to receive jewellery. Currently hardly anybody knows the
keep doing it. We’ll continue to take part in competitions, as
designers’ names and few people appreciate hand made prod-
competing gives us a lot of pleasure. 35 years together in life and at the workshop. What
ucts. In our gallery the clients ask directly why the products
is it like?
are so expensive, as soon as they find out that they are Polish. Meanwhile we try to make a living by producing jewellery.
We met at the end of 1970s. in order to prepare a project
At famous brands’ shops, where often such a ques-
for a cinema in Łomża. Zosia had already interiors, neon sings,
tion would be more justified, the clients would rather
furniture and other things in her portfolio. I dealt with inte-
not dare ask it.
rior design too, and was making my first jewellery attempts,
Polish society is getting richer, and is keen on buying jew-
gradually involving her too. Back then many educated artists
ellery by foreign brands. At the same time really talented and
– sculptors, painters and architects – learnt to make jewel-
gifted Polish goldsmiths often have to make jewellery goods
lery, as getting anything realised in the public sphere was a
to order for some apparently popular ladies who despite not
borderline miracle. This is how artistic glass, as well as small
having a clue about designing and hand making jewellery
usable objects or unique pieces of furniture, was created. For
know perfectly well how to sell it under their own name. We’re
us, jewellery gave us the artistic freedom that we were striv-
living in a strange reality… We cannot resist the feeling that
ing for – we could finally decide not only about the project,
everything’s been turned upside-down… We have won so
but also its realisation. For over 30 years we have been signing
many competitions… We wonder if our work would be appre-
our works together, which means that we constantly have to
ciated more if we lived in Western Europe... Probably so, if our
reach an artistic compromise. Though, with time it’s been more
talented jewellery designers are appreciated there, and their
and more difficult to reach... However it also has its charm… You have a clearly specified vision of your jewellery.
works are bought. Do you feel disappointed?
Have you ever happened to do something against your
Now, after over 35 years devoted to jewellery – to be pre-
aesthetic and artistic values?
cise, to small sculptural forms – we sometimes wonder whether
No, but everything is still ahead of us. We might start work-
the choice of such a niche activity, especially specialising in
ing in amber, which we completely don’t feel, and what we
such an atypical material was not a mistake after all… Our dis-
can see in many works we perceive as “tree root sculpture”.
appointment is deeper due to the fact that jewellery creators
Every year we promise to ourselves that we will break out of
are not considered to be artists in Poland: art historians claim
our comfort zone and design something with amber. Who
that it is a branch of design, however the design specialists
knows, perhaps this year we’ll finally manage…?
Peacock brooches – silver and enamel from the jubilee individual exhibition “Birds and Other Flying Objects, that is 25 years of work together”, 2005 Cracow, Bielak Gallery.
“Cat Dreams” – silver, plexiglass. Honorary award in the competition “Artist’s Personality”, 1988 Warsaw, Art Gallery
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29
A work with no title – 4 brooches: anodized aluminium, silver, stainless steel. 1st prize in the competition Presentations “Circus”, 2015 Warsaw, trade fair Gold Silver Time.
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
decide not to buy it. Looking at the problem from a broader
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
GOLD SILVER TIME for the 17th Time Press release by GOLD SILVER TIME press office
recognised the world over. You can see their latest designs at GOLD SILVER TIME.
The 17 GOLD SILVER TIME International Jewellery and Watch Fair will take place 29 September – 1 October 2016, for the second time in its new location: the MT Polska Exhibition and Congress Centre in Warsaw. th
THE
GST will be accompanied by a rich framework programme of side events, as always with a strong focus on contemporary jewellery art with the Presentations, Master of Gold, Silver, Time and 3D Space and SILVER post-competition exhibitions. The subject of this year’s exhibition developed by the PAN Polish Academy of Sciences’ Museum of the Earth in Warsaw
new location at the modern MT Polska Exhibition
will be the ancient and contemporary methods of amber
and Congress Centre with its spacious hall has
working.
met the expectations of last year’s GST participants, winning
The preparations for the next edition of GST are under-
them over with its modern vibe. This is precisely where the par-
way. The organisers, the MCT International Fair Centre and
ticipants of the 17th GOLD SILVER TIME Fair will meet: exhibitors
the PSP Visual Arts Studio, have made it their goal to expand
who will present their latest in amber, designer, art fashion,
the number of exhibitors at GST and to further enhance the
silver and gold jewellery, joined by buyers who will come to
show’s brand in Poland and internationally.
make their orders before the coming holiday season. Just like last year, the strongest contingent will be the Pendant by Dorota SZYMANIAK-CENECKA
Polish amber jewellery companies who will present a broad array of what both state-of-the-art industrial works and small studios with the highest standard of handicraft can offer. As always, there will be an extraordinary range of pieces by Polish jewellery artists and designers who are distinguished by their creativity and innovative approach to jewellery and
17. GOLD SILVER TIME International Jewellery and Watch Fair Thursday, 29 September – Saturday 1 October 2016 MT Polska Exhibition and Congress Centre ul. Marsa 56C, Warszawa › www.zlotosrebroczas.com
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34
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
THE VERDICT of the Jury of the AMBERIF DESIGN AWARD 2016 20 International Competition for the Design of Jewellery with Amber issued on February 13, 2016 in Gdańsk THE JURY:
At the session of February 13, 2016 in Gdańsk, the Jury assessed 92 works submitted by 75
yy Ms. Heidemarie HERB – Germany/Italy
artists from 19 countries: Austria, Belgium,
yy Ms. Danuta CZAPNIK – Poland
Brazil, Czech Republic, Estonia, Finland, France,
yy Ms. Adriana LISOWSKA – Poland
Germany, India, Israel, Italy, Mexico, Poland,
yy Mr. Nicolas ESTRADA – Colombia/Spain
South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Ukraine, United Kingdom, USA in the Competition with the topic
Mr. Nicolas ESTRADA was selected Chairman of the Jury.
TRANSITION.
The Jury awarded the following prizes:
THE GRAND PRIZE sponsored by Mr Paweł ADAMOWICZ, the Mayor of the City of Gdańsk PLN 10,000: Jolanta KUPNIEWSKA, Warsaw, Poland A reversal of materials, where gold is set in amber. A clash of a raw amber nugget with a rough-hewn gilded piece of silver. Characteristic transition from the transparent to the opaque in combination with an interesting architectural form.
THE AMBER PRIZE sponsored by the INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION 1 kg of amber : Jelizaveta SUSKA, Mölndal, Sweden/Latvia The jury liked how the patinas transition into amber and the copper holds the amber. The texture of the crust of the copper melts into the texture of the crust of the amber.
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36
Kinga SULEJ, Dłutów, Poland Very organic, like a lichen. There is a transition of the blue into yellow-green amber. From soft texture into harsh, broken, aggressive edges.
The Jury decided to award three honorary mentions to the entries which best evoke what the topic of TARNSITION brings to mind:
Kim Ji Young, Tanhyeon, South Korea Excellent creative process as transition. Emilia Kohut-Jeż, Gdynia, Poland Colours, form, material and amber fixed in a harmonious way. Artificial resin transitions into natural amber.
Agnieszka GRUPA, Karolina MATEA, Gdańsk, Poland A strong expression of transition with great sensibility. As if it were created by nature not by a human being.
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POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
THE SILVER PRIZE 1 kg of silver:
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Designer Łukasz IRCHA
AMBERIF 2016
The 23rd International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones
Amber &Fashion Gala AMBER LOOK TRENDS & STYLES 2015, jewellery: Dorota Cenecka GIN Atelier, fashion: Joanna Błażejowska ASKA
Press release by AMBERIF PRESS OFFICE On 16 March, the 23rd edition of AMBERIF, the International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones, will begin at AMBEREXPO Gdańsk. It is the most important amber exhibition and the largest jewellery event in Central and Eastern Europe. New jewellery designs and trends will be showcased by 480 companies from 14 countries. The organisers expect several thousand visitors from all over the world. The event will have its highlight in the evening AMBER LOOK trends & styles 2016 Amber and Fashion Gala.
the latest trends and technologies in jewellery design are presented to captivate with a wealth of inspiration, bold associations and stunning combinations of materials. “Amberif provides a direct contact to customers, there’s nothing more valuable,” emphasises Daria Jankowiak of the Motyle Jewellery Studio. “I always make a new, specially expanded collection for Amberif. This year, I’m paying homage to the natural. My pieces have imprints of leather—real, sometimes ugly and wrinkled—like in real life.”
AMBER LOOK The AMBER LOOK trends & styles Amber and Fashion Gala,
C
ompanies from Austria, Belgium, Czech Republic,
combined with the AMBER LOOK PROJECT award presenta-
Ethiopia, Germany, India, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Russia,
tion, is a place to look for perfect harmony between contem-
Turkey, the UK, the USA and Poland will have the oppor-
porary jewellery and fashion design and always generates
tunity to exchange experience, establish new business rela-
strong emotions. “Fashion perceives amber differently than
tions and get to know the current jewellery fashion trends. The
jewellers and this exchange of experience between industries
exhibitors include mainly manufacturers of amber, gold and
communities is priceless,” emphasises Michał Starost, the pro-
silver jewellery and jewellers working with precious stones
ject’s artistic director. “This year, the event’s leitmotif is pure
and diamonds (Amber Halls A & B, Silver Hall B and Gold Hall
form, softness, natural quality, closeness to nature, floristry.
C). “We have combined the entire production cycle under one
Of course we put a premium on diverse and plentiful designs
roof,” says Ewa Rachoń, AMBERIF Director. On the one hand,
to pique the interest of our guests. The collections are excel-
we have artists with their heads in the clouds who create mar-
lent and sought after, straight after our show they travel to
vels out of amber, silver and gold, on the other—those who
more fashion events. AMBERIF is a trade-only event, addressed to individ-
manufacture complex precious metal processing equipment.”
uals and businesses who trade in jewellery, jewellery art
BUSINESS & ART
and functional art.
AMBERIF is one of the key settings for the jewellery indus-
AMBERIF 2016 | www.amberif.pl
try to meet. Here business meets art, creative ideas are born,
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38
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
THE MAJOR REPRESENTATIVES OF THE AMBER BUSINESS IN THE WORLD Are Joining an Association “Le'amber Consortium” president Algis Bitautas
The members of the newly established Association “Le'amber Consortium” introduced themselves with their jewellery products at the biggest stone exhibition in Beijing (China) at the end of 2015 for the first time. This Association unites the major representatives of the amber business in the world in hopes of bringing more clarity to the market.
the Association. Disruptions in the raw amber supply from Russia at the of 2013 have left amber processors without steady supply of raw amber, thus the processors are forced to work using the current stocks or repurchase the raw material from others. “Now we live in a complicated period in the amber market. This business has become disorganized, buying raw material directly from the suppliers is complicated, thus an idea to establish an association has come to our minds. We seek to
By Virginija ZYGIENE
“THE
incorporate major Russian companies as well as processing companies in the Region of Kaliningrad and to implement
main goal of the newly established Association
common strategic goals together”, A. Bitautas continued.
is to unite the major representatives of amber
Currently “Le’amber Consortium” unites 5 members from
extraction, production, and trade as well as to establish them
China, Hong Kong, and Lithuania. UAB “Beata Amber Holding
the most favourable conditions for independent develop-
Company” led by A. Bitautas has brought under its wing com-
ment and expansion of the business”, said Algis Bitautas, the
panies operating all over the world and it is one of the initia-
President of “Le’amber Consortium”.
tors of establishment of the Association.
A. Bitautas has been developing the amber business
“It is not an association accepting everyone who wants to
for almost three decades already and he told us that the
join it – the company must be a major player and have exten-
current situation in the market has encouraged him to join
sive experience in this business. However, this does not mean
“I HOPE THAT THIS AMBER SEASON WILL TURN TO NORMAL and we will forget those two past years as a horrible nightmare.” www.balticjewellerynews.com
40
material in the market but because there is no stability in it
the big companies leaving the small companies behind. The
and no clarity of what to expect. Large factories and major
Association also maintains relations with associations in other
processors cannot accumulate larger stocks of the goods
countries uniting small processors. Currently we are conduct-
because they do not know what prices of raw amber could be
ing negotiations with associations of the small amber proces-
expected in future and fear incurring particularly high losses
sors not only in Russia but in China as well”, said the President
unexpectedly as a result of this.
of the Association.
“Thus it is very important for the Russian companies, as one of the major players in the amber market, to become members
COMMON GOALS
of the Association. The Russian companies perfectly under-
According to him, the main goals of the Association include
stand the situation in the market because they incur losses as
seeking for improvement of the conditions for amber extrac-
a result of drop in the raw material prices as well. The season
tion, production, and trade as well as operational efficiency
in the amber business starts in March and we really hope to
of the members of the Association, providing support to the
start it by having reached some agreements with the compa-
members of the Association and to take care of marketing
nies in Kaliningrad: they would become full members of our
of its members as well as search for new markets. “Le’amber
Association and we would be able to plan and implement the
Consortium” will also represent the members of the Association
made plans together”, said the President of the newly estab-
not only in their relations with international and other organi-
lished Association.
zations and individuals but also with public authorities.
Another goal of “Le’amber Consortium” is to promote amber
According to A. Bitautas, the Association seeks to make
and amber-related business, to introduce the latest technolo-
sure that quota of raw materials (quantity), its price and deliv-
gies in amber processing. “We want to attract young people
ery would be established just like in the case of the oil sector.
who would start building their own business themselves. The
“Currently the Asian countries are the major buyers and consum-
amber industry is not so big, but it is fading. We also invite
ers of raw amber, it is supplied to them by various agents and
other associations operating in Lithuania to cooperate with the
profiteers from Russia that are not even related to the amber
Association, we try helping them with raw materials and other
business. The same methods are also used by the Ukrainians as
issues as much as we can. We are discussing supply of raw mate-
currently Ukraine is an active participant in the market of raw
rials on consignment basis as a future option”, said A. Bitautas.
amber. This resulted in a situation that large amounts of raw amber accumulated in China and other Asian countries causing many problems to amber processors, especially large factories. If we compared the price of raw amber in 2013 and the current price in the market, you would see that it has decreased by approximately 30 percent”, explained the interlocutor. For example, “Beata Amber Holding Company” factories in China (established in cooperation with partners in China) employed approximately one thousand employees in 2014 but now there are only approximately 500 of them. The number of employees reduced by half not because of lack of raw
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41
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
that the primary concern of “Le’amber Consortium” is only
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Beata Amber Factory (China) Building 76, New Sun Industrial City, No.3, XinFa Road, Lincun, Tangxia Town, Dongguan.
MORE ABOUT THE HOLDING COMPANY
The population in the Asian countries are particularly fond
A. Bitautas could probably be referred to as the initia-
of all natural stones and considers amber to be a sacred stone,
tor who took the Lithuanian amber from the market place in
they value it as an expensive item and an investment with a
Palanga and brought it out into the world. He participated
long-lasting value, thus they pass amber and its products to
in the international exhibition in Hong Kong in 1990, when
their relatives (children, grandchildren, etc.).
he was still a student, and presented the Lithuanian amber
“Currently approximately 80 percent of all raw amber
products there.
to be processed and amber products are sold in the Asian
“It was difficult in the beginning, people were not really
countries. The market still has a definite potential for growth
lining up to cooperate with us, companies from Denmark,
because only approximately 20 percent of the Chinese mar-
Germany were already well-established there. Nevertheless it
ket has been glutted, so there is still lots of work to be done
took a couple of years of meticulous work but we managed to
here. Interest in amber is now growing in India as well, thus
find our buyers”, the interlocutor remembered the old times
I believe that India will become a major consumer of amber
and start of the business.
after approximately 5 or 10 years”, the entrepreneur shared
UAB “Beata” was established in 1988 in Vilnius and it
his thoughts on the market.
has become known as one of the oldest companies in Lithua nia engaged in manufacture of jewellery. During all this time
JOY TO LITHUANIA
the name of the company as well as the name of “Beata Amber
A. Bitautas is glad that such a small country like Lithuania
Holding Company”, that has united it and other companies,
is able to organize such an exhibition and attract guests to it.
has become well known and valued not only in the native coun-
This is a big plus. On the other hand, an exhibition in Gdansk
try but also in Asia, the Far East, Europe and the Western coun-
(Poland) starts right after “Amber Trip” and many buyers are
tries. Currently we have representative offices operating in Japan
not always willing to come to an exhibition in Lithuania.
(Tokyo), USA (Los Angeles), Denmark, China, and Hong Kong.
“Giedrius Guntorius, the organizer of “Amber Trip”, deserves
“Beata” used to be engaged in wholesale trade of amber
appreciation that, despite of such complicated circumstances,
but in 2002 it opened a chain of stores (currently it consists of
he still manages to attract buyers to Lithuania where most
22 amber jewellery stores) and established an amber design-
of the manufacturers are small local businesses. For instance,
ing studio – the first studio of this type in the world. A piece
in the exhibition held in Gdansk small manufactures fade
of jewellery is made right from the beginning up to the very
within the big mass of participants, whereas in Lithuania they
end in this studio. The designing studio employs 30 talented
are able to directly communicate to the buyers – here the
professional jewellers who make astonishing pieces of art.
environment is much more favourable for this”, the entre-
For instance, red amber was first developed precisely by the
preneur spoke.
designing studio established by this company. “Three of our processing companies have been established in China in cooperation with the local partners and they are engaged in processing of raw amber, production and sale of products”, revealed A. Bitautas.
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42
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Jewellery WITH HISTORY-MAKING Interview by Virginija ZYGIENE
Emilija Raginskytė, the winner of the second place in the competition “Priešingybių dialogas” (Eng. – The Dialogue of Opposites) which was held during the International jewellery exhibition “Amber Trip 2015” currently is a third-year student of metal arts and jewellery at Vilnius Academy of Arts (VAA) Faculty of Telšiai. 21-year-old artist’s works include drawings, watercolour paintings, sculptures and jewellery.
“Censorship” – 2nd place winner in Amber Trip art jewellery contest Object category
I am a person, who becomes bored of one activity quite soon; therefore I am interested in several activities. Nevertheless, jewellery takes the first place in my life, while sculpture, blacksmithing and aqua painting are like hobbies to me. There is no secret that my heart is more addicted to jewellery. I think this is the field, where I am able to express myself best. I am inspired by an idea that one person can create a final piece of art starting from the idea and end-
Why did you choose metal arts and jewellery stud-
ing with its realisation. Jewellery is particularly versatile and I
ies?
can express my imagination creatively. Jewellery is also related
Prior to my studies at VAA, I was studying sculpture arts
to product promotion: if you want to be recognised by people,
in Kaunas Art Gymnasium. I intended to link my further stud-
you have to advertise your works and communicate with clients.
ies with this field of art, although sculpture has been like a
How long you are engaged to jewellery and what is your future related to?
hobby to me. Every year, the graduates of Art Gymnasium have to create
I started practicing jewellery just 2 years ago. There are
their final work according to their specialisation. The defence
no jewellery master studies in Lithuania, thus, if I decided to
was held in VAA Faculty of Kaunas, where I met my first teacher
study further, I would choose studies abroad. Currently, I do not
of painting arts, who was interested in my future studies. It
know whether it was jewellery studies or other field – maybe
was the first time I heard about jewellery studies and instantly
something related to marketing the pieces.
I understood that this was the field I was looking for. The
However, I am a person who likes planning own future. I
plans about Lithuanian philology and advertising studies
would like to make arts and be famous not only in Lithuania,
were changed immediately and I started preparing for VAA
but also abroad, as well as focus on own trademark jewellery.
admission exams. My older brother has helped me a lot; he has
My account on social network is called Era, so I would choose
seen himself as an artist from the first grade. He was always
this name as a trademark for my products. I have huge ambi-
an example to me. Currently, Augustinas is an illustrator and
tions, but I would like to realize them in reality by works rather
creates characters for computer games.
than words.
Your works include drawings, watercolour paint-
You are the winner of the second place in the compe-
ings, sculptures and jewellery. What is the closest to
tition “Amber Trip 2015”. Why did you decide to take part
your heart?
in the competition? Have you expected such evaluation?
www.balticjewellerynews.com
44
I feel appreciated that other understood what I wanted to show, and I am pleased with that. I will continue develop-
The requirements of “Amber Trip” competition were to use
ing the same idea in the future, in order to make history of my
amber and the subject “The Dialogue of Opposites”. I had
works and invite a visitor to join my piece of work.
one month and a half till the deadline of the competition. One
On the one hand, it would be a stimulus to compete fur-
month I spent thinking of the idea and what to express in my
ther. Nevertheless, I would to raise a crossbar higher and take
work. I did not want to create an adaptive piece of jewellery
part in the competitions abroad. In fact, I presented the same
or something like that.
work in Legnica as well, however I did not enter the next round. How do you evaluate amber jewellery made by Lith-
My aim is to attract a person, since I am interested in per-
uanian masters? Are they are noticed abroad?
son-product interrelation as well as psychology and interactions between individuals. That’s why I have created a kinetic
There were many types of amber jewellery pre-
object – a game between a man and a woman, that I called
sented at “Amber Trip”. Despite the fact, I would
“Cenzūra” (Eng. – Censorship). The piece of amber between
like to see somewhat new approach to amber - to
a man and a woman means censorship, a certain subject or
show that amber can be used not only in necklaces
field which is acceptable to one side only. The thimbles for
or pictures. I tend to conceptual jewellery more.
different gender visitors’ fingers used during the game mean
Are our jewellery masters noticed abroad?
stylized characters of a man and a woman. When one opens
I think that the masters are lacking incentives
a mouth, the amber, which means censorship (taboo), goes
and stimulus, self-confidence, as well as resources
to another and vice versa. When creating this object it was
for promotion or participation in international
the first time I had to work on wood processing – to carve
exhibitions. A participant’s fee can amount even
figures.
to thousands. Do you have any other hobbies?
I arrived to Vilnius to see what other have created. At that time I did not imagine what pieces of art are exposed by other
Creation and sports have been competing
artists in the competition. I thought that the winner will be
for a higher place in my daily life for many years.
an artist, who has created a wearable piece of jewellery and I
I had participated in running and academic row-
also expected somebody of my acquaintances to be awarded.
ing competitions as well as basketball matches.
I returned to the exhibition after the awarding ceremony. When
When I was 13, I focused on sports only, and since
I saw the diploma with my name, I was truly surprised for the
autumn of 2015, when I found a new establish-
recognition and evaluation.
ing rowing base in Telšiai by chance, I am glad to
Is “Censorship” the first your work with amber? Do
return to rowing sports after a 7-year break. Sports, particu-
you enjoy working with amber and what stones do you
larly team sports, are very useful if your everyday activities
like the most?
are related to arts, when you are used to sit alone and create
I already have experience working with amber, e.g. earrings
not surrounded by people. I also enjoy reading and writing. I
and studs, but it was an ordinary way to use the amber. I like
usually read books about psychology and body language. All
this material because it is easy-to-shape and has diverse shad-
of them influence my jewellery as well – I would like to create
ing. After the competition I was creating an interior sculpture
an object or jewellery, which has something in common with
with large amber stones from Curonian lagoon. Working with
a body and its user.
it I felt huge responsibility knowing the cost of such amber pieces. I made over a half-meter height sculpture of iron and granite. Since I have the opportunity to present my works at “Amber Trip” this year, I expect presenting this sculpture as well. I like different stones in jewellery, I have mostly used semiprecious stones in my practice. So far, I am more or less improving my skills, so I rarely use precious gems. In the future, I think that alexandrite, sapphire, ruby, and maybe some rare but less known minerals will be among my favourite gems. Will a prize encourage you to take part in other competitions?
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45
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
My lecturer told me about the competition. The task was to take part in two competitions in Vilnius and Legnica (Poland).
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
GENERALLY ABOUT 2015 By Virginija PAVALKIENE, Lithuanian Assay Office
ON
specialists, and invest in expensive equipment which was necessary for the company‘s activities, even though last year there were less prod-
the 1st of January 2015 Lithuania has
ucts provided for assaying, compared to 2014.
adopted the euro. Therefore, the
The Lithuanian Assay Office stamped 1.4 million
Lithuanian Assay Office awaited for the new year
units of hallmarks on products in 2014, and 1.15
in suspense: how will the adoption of the euro
million units of hallmarks were stamped in 2015.
affect the precious metal and gemstone product
As each year, in 2015, the Lithuanian Assay
trade, will people buy precious metal and gem-
Office collected, analysed and systematized
stone products, will it reduce the need for such
Lithuanian retail market prices per 1 gram of
product assay services provided by the company.
the most popular products – gold products with
We can now say that 2015 showed that the
a 585 hallmark and silver products with a 925
economic and social situation in the country
hallmark.
did not really affect the jewellery business: there is always a
In 2015, the price of 1 gram of gold products with a 585
need to dress up and bring joy to each other with jewellery
hallmark ranged from 41 to 130 EUR in the Lithuanian mar-
that has long-lasting value.
ket, depending on the weight, design and other properties
The Lithuanian Assay Office is a state enterprise (state insti-
of the product. The price of 1 gram of silver products with
tution) carrying out the supervision of precious metals and
a 925 hallmark ranged from 3.5 to 11 EUR in the Lithuanian
gemstones in Lithuania. Since its establishment in 1991, the
market, depending on the weight, design and other proper-
Lithuanian Assay Office has never been a budgetary institution,
ties of the product.
i.e., it does not receive any state budget appropriations for the
The average price of 1 (one) gram of gold products with
development of its activities, and sustains itself from the reve-
a 585 hallmark was 58.14 EUR in the Lithuanian retail market
nue generated for provided services of assay and jewel analysis.
in 2015, and the average price of 1 (one) gram of silver prod-
The Lithuanian Assay Office ended 2015 without any losses.
ucts with a 925 hallmark was 5.74 EUR in the Lithuanian mar-
The company managed to retain its qualified and experienced
ket in 2015. In 2015, the need for gemstone identification and characterization services decreased by around 10%.
HALLMARKS
In 2015, similarly to the previous 2010 – 2014 period, the ratio of silver and gold products provided for assaying remained in favour of silver. A larger part, i.e., around 69% of all products that were
2015
provided for assaying were silver products. A similar trend was observed in 2010 – 2014, despite the fact that the relative amount of silver products continuously decreased during 2013-
2014
2015. We believe that one of the reasons that led to this situa0
0,5
tion is the lower (more acceptable for the buyer) price of silver
1 1,5
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46
31 %
C-481/12 of the resolution adopted in 2014 by the European
69 %
Court of Justice, Lithuanian Seimas adopted a recast of the Law on State Supervision of Precious Metals and Gemstones of the Republic of Lithuania (hereinafter referred to as the Law) in November of 2015, which will come into effect on 1 May 2016. The main change in the new law was the rejection of measures restricting the recognition of national hallmarks of European Union Member States. After the law comes into effect, state control hallmarks stamped on precious metal products of all precious metal and gemstone assay state supervision institutions authorized by the European Economic Area
products in the market. However, we cannot say that silver prod-
and Turkey will become valid, if marks of other countries that
ucts are more popular or more fashionable than gold products.
are not understood by Lithuanian consumers will be clarified
As shown by the sales analysis, the demand for gold prod-
in their approved hallmark according to the procedures laid
ucts remains the same. The demand tends to particularly
down in Lithuanian laws. According to the provisions of the new Law, the list of pre-
increase right before Christmas, at the end of the academic
cious metal and gemstone assay state supervision institutions
year (before diplomas are awarded), etc. Often „light“ - fine, puffed products are provided for assay-
authorized by all the countries of the European Economic
ing. This trend of lightweight products can be observed since
Area and Turkey, examples of their stamped state control
2010. It goes without saying that lower weight often, but not
hallmarks and issued quality certificates (and their sample
necessarily, determines lower jewellery prices which are more
translations into the Lithuanian language) will be approved
acceptable for the buyer.
by the Government of the Republic of Lithuania or an institu-
Consumer interest in jewellery marking is noticeably
tion authorized by it.
increasing in Lithuania. There is an interest regarding which
In 2012, legal acts regulating the activities related to pre-
hallmark should be stamped on the product, who should
cious metals and gemstones were reviewed in Lithuania, and
stamp the hallmark, what sign shows the hallmark of the prod-
a number of excess requirements were rejected. Since 2012,
uct, etc. We noticed that most buyers know and understand
all those who wished to engage in activities related to pre-
that, for example, the number „585“ found on a product does
cious metals and gemstones had to submit an application to
not necessarily prove that the product is actually made of 585
the Lithuanian Assay Office in order to register in the register
fine gold, and that numbers alone without a state mark do not
of such business entities according to national procedures,
certify the product‘s purity.
and the Lithuanian Assay office had to assess the provided
Buyers show interest and inquire whether the products
information, examine the application and make an appro-
were tested by the Lithuanian Assay Office and if they are
priate decision (to register/not to register/to unregister, etc.).
labelled with the Lithuanian state control hallmark
Only after a decision is made by the Lithuanian Assay Office,
certifying and guaranteeing that the product is actually made
the business entity can be registered, receive a certificate of
of gold. It is important for consumers to know whether the pur-
his registration and only then engage in appropriate activi-
chased piece of jewellery actually matches the declared hall-
ties. However, the new Law provides that the business entity
mark, whether it is worth buying the product for the offered
who wishes to carry out activities related to precious metals
price, etc. Consumers are also encouraged to take interest in
and gemstones in the Republic of Lithuania will only have to
the meaning of hallmarks stamped on products by following
submit a declaration in the prescribed form of long-term or
a simple folk proverb “all that glitters is not gold”.
temporary or one-time activities related to precious metals and gemstones (hereinafter referred to as Declaration) and, if the
ABOUT MORE FAVOURABLE AND FACILITATED BUSINESS CONDITIONS.
business entity must bear a responsibility mark, the sketch of
In order to ensure the compliance of the Law on State
with the stamp of the responsibility mark (hereinafter jointly
Supervision of Precious Metals and Gemstones of the
referred to as responsibility mark examples), and it shall be
Republic of Lithuania with the practical implementation of
considered that the business entity will carry out his activities
the responsibility mark of at least 2 x 2 cm and a metal plate
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47
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
the interpretation of EU legislative provisions provided in case
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
related to precious metals and gemstones on the next day
Business Year signed in 2011 by public supervisory authori-
from the date of the Declaration submission.
ties: the officers of our company provided consultations to
What is important is that the Law does not provide any
business entities who carried out their business activities for
Declaration submission or other tax, i.e., the state reduced
the first year, provided them with methodical assistance, did
the financial burden for business entities who previously had
not apply any strict sanctions (fines, operational restrictions,
to pay the tax.
etc.) even after violations were found, and, instead, provided
In 2015, the director of the Lithuanian Assay Office, within
deadlines to eliminate these violations.
his competence, reviewed the recommendations for the marking and/or application of minor importance accounting by car-
ON BUSINESS TRENDS
rying out the supervision of the activities of business entities,
From 31 December 2010 to 31 December 2015 registered
which were adopted in 2013 and supplemented more than
business entities increased by 68.7% - from 931 (in 2010) to
once, and which define the complete list of violations. If it is
1571 (in 2015).
determined that the business entity (natural person or legal entity) has made a violation specified in the list, then sanctions
1600
cannot be applied. Instead, a reasonable term is provided to
1400
fix the violations. Just like any other legal acts that regulate
1200
the activities related to precious metals and gemstones, these
1000
recommendations are published on the Lithuanian Assay
800
Office website www.lpr.lt
600
It should be pointed out that business entities do not
400
actively use the new possibilities, even though their adminis-
200
trative burden is facilitated each year. For example, since 2012,
0
it became legally possible for business entities to submit all
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
documents to the Lithuanian Assay Office by electronic means
931 1060 1196 1342 1472 1571
via the portal www.verslovartai.lt, however, Lithuanian entrepreneurs rarely use the possibility to submit their documents
CHANGES IN THE NUMBER OF BUSINESS ENTITIES WHO SUSPENDED THEIR ACTIVITIES RELATED TO PRECIOUS METALS AND GEMSTONES IN 2010-2015* (UNITS)
by electronic means. Currently, the submission of documents in „paper“ form still remains more popular. In 2015, only 2 business entities submitted their documents by electronic means. The company encourages all business entities to use the provided system, thus saving their time and finances. We are
50
happy to have launched this system and hope that our clients
40
will show more interest in the technical innovations, enabling
30
them to manage all their business matters related to precious
20
metals and gemstones without leaving their workplace, as
10
well as easily adapt to more favourable and simplified busi-
0
ness conditions.
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Since 1 January 2013, the Lithuanian Assay Office pub-
38 35 39 18 22 40
lished a list of all newly registered or unregistered business
* - according to the data of the 31st of December of the calendar year
entities in the public register of permits of state institutions http://www.verslovartai.lt/lt/leidimu-registras. The publicity
Increasing competition between business entities that
and accessibility of such information make it possible for ordi-
have many years of experience in the precious metal market,
nary consumers - jewellery buyers to learn more about jew-
market saturation and, possibly, the introduction of a new
ellery sellers and the legality of their activities. A possibility
national currency had an impact on the shutting down of small
is also provided to „check“ the legitimacy of activities carried
companies. Despite this fact, the variety of precious metal
out by one‘s business partner.
offers is continuously increasing. Manufacturers no longer limit
In 2015, the Lithuanian Assay Office continued to work
themselves to the production of standard products and aim
according to the provisions of the Declaration on the First
to achieve originality through the designs of their products.
www.balticjewellerynews.com
48
entities carrying out the aforesaid activities increased by 1,8 times – from 299 (in 2010) to 536 (in 2015).
who carry out activities related to precious metals. Eg., 410
The number of jewellers who produce precious metal and
business entities under the aforesaid status were registered
gemstone products has increased from 256 to 454 during the
in 2010, and 769 were registered in 2015.
period between 31 December 2010 and 31 December 2015.
The number of individual companies did not change
Most of these manufacturers are natural persons who carry
in 2015, compared to 2010: 238 – in 2010, 239 - at the end of
out individual activities. The number of persons who trade in
2015.
investment gold has increased in recent years: from 26 busi-
The number of small business owners working under a
ness entities in 2010 to 104 business entities at the end of 2015.
business licence or individual economic activity certificate
Trade of precious metal and gemstone products on the
increased by more than two times - from 258 to 545 during
internet is now becoming noticeably popular. By the end of
the period between 31 December 2010 and 31 December 2015.
2010, such activities were legally carried out by 10 business
As in previous years, retail and wholesale (distribution)
entities, and on 31 December 2015 these activities were legal-
trade of precious metal products remained the main activity of
ized by 155 business entities.
business entities during 2015. The number of companies who
The provided statistics enable to conclude that the
declared such activities increased from 834 to 1330 between
Lithuanian precious metal and gemstone market is growing.
31 December 2010 and 31 December 2015.
Business conditions are becoming more favourable and admin-
The number of pawnshops, which accept precious metals,
istrative burden is reduced for business entities who carry
gemstones and their products as deposits for loans, increased
out these activities. This results in the reduction of shadow
during economic recession and continued to grow in 2015:
economy and protection of the interests of consumers, and
from 195 business entities providing pawnshop services in
this is the most important work direction in the activities of
2010 to 326 business entities at the end of 2015.
the Lithuanian Assay Office.
In 2015, 536 business entities had the right to carry out the activities of buying and selling precious metals, gemstones, their products and scraps. Since 2010, the number of business
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Public limited liability companies and/or private limited liability companies are often established by business entities
LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
ART GALLERY PUTTI TAKING A STEP TOWARDS NEW DIGITAL OPPORTUNITIES by Zane PUTANE
Art
gallery Putti online store was created in the
presented has grown a lot. The gallery hosts at least four solo
beginning of 2015 with a goal to make Latvian
or group exhibitions per year. The focus always has been on
and international contemporary jewellery
the local artists – Art gallery Putti represents jewellery by
more accessible to its audience in Latvia and all around the
such contemporary jewellery designers as Valdis Brože, Māris
world.
Auniņš, Guntis Lauders, Andris Lauders, Māris Šustiņš and Jānis
Art gallery Putti was established in Riga, Latvia in 2000 so
Vilks – all of them are graduates of the Latvian or Estonian
it has offered contemporary and conceptual jewellery made
Academy of Arts. Different international jewellery artists, as
by local and international artists for around 15 years. In these
Ted Noten, Märta Mattsson, Felike van der Leest, Tanel Veenre,
years the quality and variety of exhibitions and the jewellery
Gigi Mariani, Reka Lorincz and others have had exhibitions in
www.balticjewellerynews.com
50
LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Putti. Because of all of these exhibitions the visitors and cli-
Therefore the hope was that an online store would help cli-
ents of the gallery have been presented with a wide choice
ents to find the right jewellery for them in a more timely,
of jewellery to fall in love with.
convenient and accessible way. Another reason for creating
The gallery has been visited by many people who live
this store was to reach new audiences all around the world –
abroad and a lot of them have been asking throughout the
art jewellery lovers who have not visited Art gallery Putti, as
years, if it is possible to buy the jewellery online. They may
well as people who are new to the world of contemporary
have purchased a piece from a Latvian jewellery designer and
jewellery. The online store was made as a platform for new
they would love to see what this designer will create after a
audience to discover the wonderful artistic approaches and
month or a year, but they do not plan to visit Riga at this time.
exquisite craftsmanship of the artists represented by Art
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51
LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Valdis Brože, necklace – silver 925, gold 750, serpentine
Andris Lauders, ring – silver 925, gold 750, onyx, ebony
gallery Putti in a manner that would assure enjoyable cus-
much easier for a client to purchase a jewellery piece online if
tomer experience.
they have already been to our gallery or already own a piece
It took a while to go through the decision and execu-
from any of the designers that are featured in our online store.
tion process regarding the technical side of the online store.
They know our brand and the quality of our service as well as
It was difficult to decide whether the online store should be
the quality of jewellery offered, so there is less doubt in the
integrated in Art gallery Putti existing website or should it be
decision process.
made as a separate website – at the end the online store is a
But even for those people who visit the online store and
separate website. By dividing the websites we have improved
are hesitant to buy products because they are not familiar with
the user experience without complicating it. This online store
our brand or the designers – we are very pleased that we are
is made using the Shopify e-commerce software platform
able to introduce them to Latvian contemporary jewellery.
which is a good choice if a business does not have too many
This is one of the gallery`s main goals – to introduce, famil-
specific demands regarding the functionality and design of
iarize and educate the society with the world of contempo-
their online store.
rary and conceptual jewellery. A lot of people definitely still
The online store was launched with four jewellery collec-
don’t see the added value of owning a contemporary jewel-
tions made by beloved Latvian contemporary jewellery art-
lery piece, there is a widely debated question of where and
ists – Māris Šustiņš, Andris Lauders, Valdis Brože and Guntis
whether contemporary jewellery fits in the art world. These
Lauders. Each of these artists has a different artistic approach
original jewellery creations may be observed as art and design
and they all create works of the highest quality. Their differ-
objects as well as complementing accessory that brings char-
ent styles help every person who visits our online store to find
acter to the outfit and can serve as a conversation-starter. So
something to their preference. Over time jewellery pieces have
we are happy to make a glimpse into Latvian contemporary
been added regularly to the online store.
jewellery available around the world.
“We have received a lot of positive feedback regarding our
At the moment we are experimenting by introducing
online store. When we were planning to make it, we did a lot
some non-jewellery products in our store, like wallets or mugs
of research and did not find a lot of possibilities to purchase
made by different Latvian artists – something special that
contemporary jewellery online, so it was a little bit scary to do
still fits with the gallery, but is in a different price range. We
it but looking at all the factors it seemed as a natural step in
also offer some jewellery pieces that are made by our artists
the growth of Art gallery Putti. It definitely has been an excit-
specifically for the online store that are more affordable – it
ing and interesting experience and it does not stop as we like
is easier to commit these purchases without trying the jew-
to try out new things regarding the promotion, entering new
ellery on. In this way we can expand our brand and diversify
markets and the variety of offered products.
the offered products.
We find that many of the clients in Latvia would often take
The world is changing constantly and there are always
a look in our online store at the newest arrivals, find some-
new possibilities emerging, we really enjoy using at least few
thing that they like and then come to the actual gallery and
of them and it is an exciting experience to see where it can
demand this specific product. It still is very important for most
take us and our business.”
of the people to see and try on the jewellery in real life – this
› Visit: store.putti.lv – Art gallery Putti online store
is a habit that we already knew and took in consideration. It is
www.balticjewellerynews.com
52
Information provided by the Public Institution “Latvian Assay Office”
Over 2015 the Latvian Assay Office assayed and hallmarked precious metal articles:
Gold – 256 300 items
Silver – 467 300 items
(Total weight: 492,4 kg)
(Total weight: 1383,9 kg)
There are 2042 places of business activities (shops, workshops, places of manufacturing, ect.) registered in Latvia, 220 of them are registered in the last year.
THE CHANGE OF THE LATVIAN ASSAY OFFICE ASSAYED AND HALLMARKED PRECIOUS METAL ARTICLES OVER 2011–2015 500 000
420 000
340 000
260 000
180 000
100 000
2011
2013
2015
Contact: +371 672 10 009 / prove@prove.lv / www.prove.lv
www.balticjewellerynews.com
53
LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Statistics of the Public Institution “Latvian Assay Office”
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
MUNICH JEWELLERY WEEK By Odilija GUNTORIUTE
A week dedicated to the most exquisite contemporary jewellery
IT
was my first time in the Munich Jewellery Week and I loved it – anyone who works with jewellery
must come to the Munich Jewellery Week. Not only were those days inspirational, but after seeing and talking to so many jewellers in one city I got encouraged to keep on working and spreading the word about an amazing world of jewellery. Big congratulations to the stars of the Munich Jewellery Week! This year at Schmuck 2016 Herbert-Hofmann-Award won: Moniek Schrijer, Jelizaveta Suska and Stefano Marchetti. Talente winners were Edu Tarin and Dovile Bernadisiute Besides the main exhibition and its events over 80 different contemporary jewellery events took place during the Munich Jewellery Week. There is no way you can make it to everyone of them, but Current Obsession has done an amazing job to make it easier to get around Munich with their map and special paper with the “Must-See List” of
By Thomas GENTILLE
By Edu TARIN
famous jewellers.
By Stefano MARCHETTI
By Dovile BERNADISIUTE
www.balticjewellerynews.com
54
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT The Predilection by Tanel VEENRE
something mystical about a mass of jewellery lovers going around in the circle shaped exhibition and witnessing how Thomas Gentille reveals the “soul of the material”. Throughout my time there I guess I saw the most smiling faces coming out from “The Big Fish” van. This van would By Lisa WALKER
pop-up at various places of Munich or near the locations of other events and people driven by their curiosity would stand in a queue to see jewellery by Rietveld Academie Jewellery
One of the highlights was the exhibition of the incre
Department.
dible jewellery by Lisa Walker at Galerie Biro. New Zealand
Oh! Talking about good experience – “Estonishing!” –
born artist challenges jewellery stereotypes. Her work is a
Estonian jewellery artists exhibition comes to my head.
study into the differences between an accepted notion of
Estonians have already made a name for their great art jew-
beauty or stereo-type, and something else – the search for
ellery, but oh my… seeing all that mastery in one place and
a quality that we hardly ever see, but nevertheless perhaps
people flooding their stand. Definitely proves Galeria Thomas
recognise.
Cohn booth was one of the highlights of the week. Without further ado, I will allow photos of jewellery from
At the Pinakothek der Moderne, visitors of the Munich
the Munich Jewellery Week speak for themselves.
Jewellery Week got introduced to the great collection of work by virtuous jewellery artist Thomas Gentille. There was
By Jelizaveta SUSKA
By Moniek SCHRIJER
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55
By Lisa PLAUT in the Big Fish van
DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT
SKT. LOYE AWARD –
A MISSION TO E N CO U R A G E Y O U N G JEWELLERS By Odilija GUNTORIUTE
Danish mastery in jewellery, teir taste, their sensation comes from their long goldsmith traditions. However, in this age, when imitation jewellery thrive, it is important to inovate and pursue fresh perspectives to maintain Danish jewellery in a respectable possition among other art forms. Is there a better way to achieve this goal then to strenghten and boost young jewellers? Kjøbenhavns Goldsmith Guild, which was founded in 1429 not only preserves traditions, they actively contribute to innovation of Danish jewellery. The Baltic Jewellery News got an opportunity to interview Master of Guild – Diana HOLSTEN and 2015 Skt. Loye Award winner Christine BUKKEHAVE. “Christine BUKKEHAVE: This recognition has given me the courage to continue that direction, and proved that hard work pays off.”
What is the story behind The Skt. Loye Award?
Diana Holsten: The Skt. Loye Award is meant as an inspi-
Diana Holsten: The Skt. Loye Award was instituted in
ration for the recipient to continue having faith that all his or
1989 on the initiative of the Master of Guild at that time, Ove
her hard work is well invested. The Goldsmith Guilt wants to
Dragsted, and Vice Master of Guild Flemming Hertz in coop-
serve younger talents as an incentive to continue their work
eration with the head of the Goldsmith School, Ib Andersen.
with own ideas and projects of artistic value. Our overall aim
Since 1989, a large number of skilled craftspeople with artis-
with the award, exhibition, and the satellites events created
tic talent and high ambition have won the
by our members, is to present the field’s
award. After 2007 it was paused and in 2012
diversity, proud craftsmanship tradition
there are selected tree nominees and the
FORMER RECIPIENTS OF THE SKT. LOYE AWARD:
prize is accompanied by a main exhibition and
Kim Buck, 1989
satellite events around Copenhagen such as
Flemming Bo Hansen, 1990
group and solo exhibitions, artist talks and
Thorkild Thøgersen, 1991
it returned as every third-year-event. Today
the possibility to visit workshops etcetera. Who was Skt. Loye? Diana Holsten: Saint Loye (lat. Eligius, fr. Éloi), is patron saint of smiths, goldsmiths and farmers and is sometimes pictured with a chalice, a smith’s tools and a horse’s hoof.” Loye was living around 590–660, and trained
Mette Østberg, 1993 Lars Glad, 1994 Laust Balsgaard, 1995 Mette Saabye, 1997 Lasse Bæhring, 1998 Jane Kønig, 1999 Margaret Bridgwater, 2000 Anette Dreyer, 2001
as a goldsmith and was later appointed mas-
Mette Vivelsted, 2002
ter of the mint at the Merovingian court, and
Josephine Winther, 2003
finally became bishop of Noyon. What is the meaning behind this
and passionate artists to a greater audience. Who chooses the winner of this award? Diana Holsten: The board of the Goldsmith Guild set up a jury. The Skt. Loye Award jury of 2015 was: Jorunn Veiteberg, professor and art historian. Tine Kjølsen, Head of School of Design at The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts. Annette Dam, jewellery artist and Skt. Loye 2012 prizewinner. Nicolai Appel, goldsmith and board member. Diana Holstein, jewellery designer and Master of Guild. The jury select the nominees from a
Kamilla Ruberg, 2004
field of applicants about a year before the
Ane Christensen, 2005
award exhibition. The thee nominees receive
award, what do you think it gives to
Lone Løvschal, 2006
a working grant and create new works for
the winner apart from the financial
Marie Bonfils, 2007
the exhibition – and the Jury select a win-
assistance?
Annette Dam, 2012
ner based on the works at the exhibition.
Christine Bukkehave, 2015 www.balticjewellerynews.com
57
DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Diana HOLSTEN – Master of Guild, Christine Bukkehave winner of the 2015 Skt. Loye AWARD and CROWN PRINCESS of Denmark Mary
DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT
This recognition has given me the courage to continue
To apply for the Skt. Loye Award, you need to be educated from a goldsmith, art or design school within the last
that direction, and proved that hard work pays off. How did you become a jewellery designer? What/who
6 years. The applicants must be Danish citizens or be living in
pushed you to pursue this path?
Denmark. What are the criteria of the winner? Which charac-
Christine Bukkehave: I always worked with my hands, and
teristic of jewellery designer is the most important for
never been afraid they would get dirty. I made ceramics, col-
this award?
lages in paper, and I often went exploring on my grandfather’s
Diana Holsten: It is the jury who do the selection and in
workshop with all kinds of little gizmos in different materials,
that sense the jury have an influence on who are nominated
but getting it into the jewelry was actually my mother’s idea.
and who will be the winner of the Skt. Loye Award.
That I began already at boarding school and High School.
It is though, the wish of the guild, to present the many
You were trained as a goldsmith in the Netherlands
components of jewellery art and holloware – craftsmanship,
and acquired your degree in Copenhagen. How do you
artistry and design and that the award is given to a talent
think jewellery design differs in Netherlands and in
who, with vision and unique designs, gives the trade a fresh
Denmark? Christine Bukkehave: I think in Holland you are more
profile. The next Skt. Loye Award – The City of Jewellery will take
“allowed” to think alternative. You think more about the design
place in 2018. My hope is that we will host an exhibition with
and in different options. Although it is a technical jewellery
talented nominees and an international seminar plus a diverse
school I went to in Holland, we started immediately to design
and interesting satellite program, which again will encourage
our own jewelry. Everyone gets the same tasks, but you have
everyone to explore and witness that Copenhagen truly is a
to solve them differently. In this way, you starts to think about
City of Jewellery.
design, material and cost much sooner than in Denmark. In Denmark you are apprenticed to a goldsmith, so its depending on, who you are trained from. Its doesn’t mean that it is a
Christine Bukkehave, congratulations for winning
bad thing, it depends on what you want.
Skt. Loye Prize! What does this recognition mean to you?
You got a degree from Institute of Precious Metals
Christine Bukkehave: It means everything to me person-
in Copenhagen, what do you think this Institute gave to your work?
ally to be recognized by other jewelers who are all at a high
Christine Bukkehave: I learned to express myself by being
professional level. It also means that I more than ever dare to
allowed to experiment in different materials. I was forced
trust my intuitions, and continue to do my thing.
Skt. Loye Prize winning “Tundra” ring
Skt. Loye Prize winning “Transition” pendant
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58
With what material do you like to work the most, when
to challenge myself to the limit. In this way one learned to
making your jewellery?
describe and argue for the choice of shape, size and material
Christine Bukkehave: I’ve always been fascinated by com-
selection. It is a strength that I have used since. Where do you take inspiration for your designs?
bining classic and alternative material. So I cannot just choose
Christine Bukkehave: Mainly I’m very inspired by the
one. In the metal world, I work mostly in silver. It is a great
North. I found inspiration in the cold frozen landscape in com-
satisfaction to solder. In alternative materials I have worked
bination with the minimalist, Scandinavian clean designs. When
intensively with bone, such as horns and teeth. It is a pleasant
I choose my designs, I often look into stories, myths, charac-
material, because it is easy to drill and file in it. Currently, I’m
ters with simple details and abstract forms found in nature.
working with Greenlandic Marble. That’s really nice to polish
An example of this is my latest work, where this applies both
and gives a beautiful pattern.
in material and in shape. I will often try to incorporate a frail
Quite a lot of your jewellery is with amber. How did
and feminine angle to my rough and powerful expressions.
you start working with amber? How amber is different
One of the ways to make the two styles clash is adding feather
from other materials? Christine Bukkehave: I started working with amber at the
light materials and clean looks to some of my work.
Institute for precious metal, and sooner at House of Amber, where I still make unique pieces and collections with amber for them. The amber is filled with history and known as the Nordic gold, which two factors are great inspiration for me, so it was natural for me to use amber in my jewellery. Amber is very characteristic of its weight. It’s incredibly light and it allows you to play with the proportions of your products. Another interesting quality is that every amber piece is unique. You never know what´s inside or what will happen, when you start working with it. If you know the right knowledge, you can get the most shiny high polished amber. It´s really amazing. It’s also fascinating how amber can have different colors, shapes and changing. This provides a wealth of opportunities in the design process, and makes the amber stand out from other materials. “Weeping Tree”, brooch from Cast Away collection
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59
DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT
“The three Skt. Loye 2015 nominees: Pernille MOURITZEN, James STOKLUND and Christine BUKKEHAVE”
SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT
NOBEL Jewellery Prize 2015 By Sanna SVEDEST edt & Karin Roy ANDERSS on Diagonal info@diagonalartprojects.com www.diagonalartprojects.com
From a tradition started by your’s truly in 2010, it is now time to present the winners of the Nobel Jewellery Prize 2015. Brooch by Lisa WALKER, 2003, glue, gold (24ct) courtesy of The Young, Wellington, New Zealand Private collection
of famous or “quasi-important” people. Parts of the faces have been erased, cutting off some of the information and some of the person’s trademark. Alexander Blank investigates how information is lost and how new information is found again. He has learned to master the skill to capture materials and information and transforming it into pieces that leaves no viewer
LITERATURE
indifferent to his work. For this achievement we are awarding
The Nobel Prize in Literature 2015 was awarded to Svetlana
Alexander Blank the 2015 Nobel Jewellery Prize in Chemistry.
Aleksijevitj. By collecting and capturing self experienced stories from people around her she paints a vibrant, honest picShadow, brooches by Nils HINT, 2014, forged iron. Photo: Nils HINT
ture of life as it is. The 2015 Nobel Jewellery Prize in Literature goes to Lisa Walker. This artist assembles objects and pieces from the environment around her. She has a unique eye for details and her work reflects the ambiance of both past and present times.
MEDICINE Jimmy brooch by Alexander BLANK, 2013, high density foam, graphite, silver, paint. Photo: Mirei TAKEUCHI
2015’s Nobel Prize in Medicine was given to William C. Campbell and Satoshi Ōmura for creating a new therapy for malaria and other infections caused by parasites. They have discovered and refined medicines that treat diseases causing suffering and death. Satoshi Ōmura has developed traditional Chinese medicine with modern knowledge making a cure for one of the larg-
CHEMISTRY
est epidemics of our time. We are giving the Jewellery Nobel
Tomas Lindahl, Paul Modrich and Aziz Sancar got the 2015
Medicine Prize of 2015 to Estonian artist Nils Hint.
Nobel Prize in Chemistry. Their research has revealed how
Nils Hint conjoins traditional jewellery with the raw, heavy
damaged DNA is repaired and how genetic information is
aesthetics of a blacksmith. Hint’s jewellery pieces reveal an
protected. This knowledge can for example be used when
unexpected inner nature of the smithery and shows it’s naked
developing new cancer treatments.
beauty. Hint has developed contemporary artwork where the
Alexander Blank is well known for his bold and challenging
silhouettes speak of industrial history and at the same time
artistic expression. In the “Jimmy“ series Blank has used portraits
indicates an interesting and beautiful future.
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60
To the left: My Iron Lung. Pendant by Dauvit ALEXANDE, corroded iron box-girder, silver, polycarbonate reflector material from a crashed car, nickel-silver rods, copper, 9 ct gold, included quartz, tourmaline, amethyst, peridot, emeralds, rare-earth magnet from discarded electric toothbrush, moulded glass doll, brass letter types. Photo: Simon MURPHY (portrait) and Andrew NIELSSON (pendant) To the right: Saint Dauvit: Fragments from the Alter. Pendant by Jan DONALDSON, sterling silver, brass, guitar string, hand-made paper, resin, 23ct gold leaf, “found” brass pins and bell.
PHYSICS Takaaki Kajita and Arthur B. McDonald have proved that neutrinos have the ability to change identity. Thousands of billions of neutrinos run through our bodies every second. They used to be considered to be without mass but the winners of the Nobel Prize in Physics 2015 have made it clear that they do. This discovery changes our notions about the universe, it’s history and future. The Jewellery Nobel Prize 2015 goes to David Bielander. This artist transforms the core of the material, induce a new quality that totally changes the identity of the material as well as our comprehension of weight, value and substantial structures.
ECONOMY The Prize in Economic Sciences in Memory of Alfred Nobel 2015 was this year awarded to Angus Deaton. By looking at consumption at an individual level he has mapped out economic patterns. His research gives answers on how to deal
PEACE
with poverty and to stimulate welfare.
The Jasmine Revolution enabled the build-up of democracy
One of the big problems of today is mass-consumption
in Tunisia in 2011. The Tunisian National Dialogue Quartet was a
and production of unnecessary products. Art jewellery often
strong and important actor in the revolution and in the time of
contains more time, thought and craft than exploitation of
political turbulence that followed. 2015’s Nobel Peace Prize was
natural resources. In the Contemporary Jewelry Exchange
awarded to a group that has created a democratic society that
project jewellery artists are paired up and asked to create an
stands up for human rights, equality and freedom of speech.
individual piece of jewellery especially for each other.
Art Jewelry Forum is stepping up the game of global aware-
By making pieces of jewellery especially for a selected
ness of art jewellery by appointing individuals as AJF ambas-
person, the Contemporary Jewelry Exchange project and the
sadors for cities and countries that have an existing art jew-
publication visualizes the effect of creating custom made
elry scene, but tend to fall in the shadow of larger actors. This
pieces. The Jewellery Prize in Economic goes to an initiative
approach, and the possibility to nominate ambassadors from
that creates custom-made solutions minimizing waste, turn-
a country not yet represented, helps to fill gaps in the jewel-
ing time and thought into objects and makes for sustainable
lery map. To an organisation giving a microphone to a variety
development. That’s it folks. A big thank you to the amazing winners!
of voices – 2016 Jewellery Peace Prize goes to AJF*
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61
SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Cardboard, bracelet by David BIELANDER, 2015, silver patinated, white gold. Photo: Dirk EISEL
SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT
More Baltic exhibitors at Precious By Åsa AXELSON
A fair that is all about jewellery and watches. A fair that is the largest of its kind in the Nordic countries. A fair that is only a couple of hours away. Precious – Stockholm Nordic Watch & Jewellery Fair – is growing and connecting with its Baltic neighbours.
September with dinner, awards, dancing and mingle in a truly fabulous venue. A very exiting part of the fair is the Precious Talents area. New designers from the Nordic countries can apply and those selected will have the opportunity to exhibit free of charge in a dedicated area. Meet the bold, creative and inspiring new talents of the industry!
P
yy Precious started 27 years ago – it is now the largest Nordic
Baltic jewellers participated in Precious: Kwjatkovsky, Alfredas
yy In 2015, Precious hosted 167 exhibitors from 15 countries
Daulius and Hermis Jewellery. Åsa Axelson, project leader
yy The same year, a staggering 375 brands were represented at
PRECIOUS IN NUMBERS:
recious – Stockholm Nordic Watch & Jewellery Fair – continues its expansion in all the Nordic countries as well as in the Baltic. In 2015, three exciting
fair for the watch and jewellery industry
for Precious is looking forward to more visitors and exhibi-
Precious
tors from Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania in this year’s edition
yy The number of countries represented by visiting purchaser
of Precious in September.
increased with 53 % in 2015, compared to the previous year
“Precious is for watch and jewellery stores, artisans and stylists. Visitors get to see brand new collections, meet sup-
Do you want to visit Precious? Go to preciousfair.se/en and
pliers and designers, and make new connections in the Nordic
click “Visitor”. The registration code is PRE16. Please note that
watch and jewellery industry”, says Åsa Axelsson.
this is a trade fair and it is only open to industry professionals.
Precious is held 9–11 September 2016 at Stockholmsmässan
Do you want to exhibit at Precious.
in Stockholm, Sweden. More than 150 exhibitors participate and visitors will be immersed in new designs. And whatever
› Go to preciousfair.se/en and click “Exhibitor”
you do, don’t miss the Precious Gala Dinner on Saturday 10
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62
FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Do all Finns HIBERNATE? By Antonio ALTARRIBA
THIS
quick glance of what the trio has done. The graphic designer is Kimmo Heikkilä. A jewellery book is always welcome, because
was the question that Christopher Zellberger
there are not so many books on contemporay jewellery in
asked in 1997 during the Alchemy seminar
Finland. It is also a good testimony for history of what happens
in Lappeenranta. After a business trip to Germany in 1999
now. As PhD Päivi Ruutiainen writes in the book ” The art world
Mustonen and Heikkilä came to the conclusion that they
has changed a lot in 50 years. When Helena Lehtinen, b. 1952,
wanted to form a jewellery group called HIBERNATE and
applied to exhibitions in the eighties all material was sent in
decided to invite Helena Lehtinen to join the two of them.
paper and by letter, but for Tarja Tuupanen, b. 1973, applica-
Tarja Tuupanen joined the group in 2000. Later on Kimmo
tions has been sent by email”. This book can be ordered via
Heikkilä left the group since he concentrated in new aspects of
their website www.hibernate.fi
art making and also in graphic design and left jewellery aside.
HIBERNATE MEMBERS. Helena Lehtinen is a jewellery artist born in 1952 in Lahti, Finland, where she lives and works. After graduating from Lahti Goldsmith school in 1977 as silversmith she complimented studies at Lahti polytechnics and also at the University of Industrials Arts in Helsinki. She has been teaching parttime in several polytechnics in Finland and also at Konstfack, Stockholm, as a lecturer. Helena Lehtinen’s career is long in jewellery making and during that time she has experimented in many things and ways of doing jewellery. During last years, she is much centred in experimenting with processes and materials. Lehtinen’s work is always in progress, working very sophisticatedly, fusing forms and content, in order to find the boundaries of art beyond simple definitions. She was nomiHibernate; Eija MUSTONEN, Helena LEHTINEN and Tarja TUUPANEN working together. Photo: Hibernate
nated Finland’s jeweller of the year 2015. Jewellery artist Eija Mustonen, b. 1961, began her studies in Ylämaa ( Lappeenranta) in 1981, then studied silversmith-
The HIBERNATE group started organizing exhibitions. It is
ing in Lahti at Goldsmith school and later got her MA degree
well known the big effort and expenses that each artist has to
from the University of Industrial Arts in Helsinki. She is very
undergo while arranging exhibitions. As a group the amount
talented in the art of working with materials. Mustonen has
of work each one has to do is divided and also the expenses
always been very active participating in exhibitions in Finland
are shared. In addition galleries are delighted showing the
and abroad. Currently she holds the post of Fine Arts pro-
work of a group of artists rather than showing solo exhibi-
gram manager at the Saimaa University of Applied Sciences.
tions. I would say that it is the only group in Finland that has
Besides her artistic facet Mustonen has a large perspective
worked together for almost 20 years, of course, sometimes
in contemporary jewellery education, since she has hold a
more actively than others. HIBERNATE has especialised in mak-
teaching post through the years and had the opportunity to
ing exhibitions out of Finland. We could say that they have
cooperate internationally with several universities and pol-
been a kind of ambassadors in jewellery.
itechnics in Europe, USA and Japan.
HIBERNATE has just launched a book of 160 pages and
Tarja Tuupanen, jewellery artist, was born in 1973 in Lieksa,
hard covers, which will be presented in Schmuck 2016, in
Finland. She lives and works in Lappeenranta. Tuupanen stud-
gallery 84GHz. It is written in Finnish and English with texts
ied jewellery and stonework at the South Carelia University
from PhD Päivi Ruutiainen and professor Karen Pontoppidan
of Applied Sciences. She got her Masters degree in 2013 from
of the Academy of Fine Arts of Munich. The images offer a
Konstfack, Stockholm. Tuupanen’s work has been exhibited
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64
Helena LEHTINEN Brooch 2015 mixed media Photo: Lassi RINNO
Eija MUSTONEN Apron 2015 nickel silver Photo: Jesse PYLSY
Consequence, Hibernate exhibition, 84 GHz, Munich Germany, 2015 Photo: Hibernate
around the world. Tuupanen belongs to the Finnish young
It is significant and fundamental not to create ivory towers for
generation of contemporary jewellery artists, who has a free
experimental work. She loves working with the whiteness of
concept on materials and techniques and for this reason she
marble stone, which material she acquires from second hand
does not want to be isolated from other artistic movements.
markets, a way of giving a second life to old objects.
FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Tarja TUUPANEN Brooch 2013 readymade marble tableware, brass Photo: Lassi RINNO
CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT
A WEALTH OF MAGNIFICENT GEMS AND JEWELS The World’s Largest Jewellery Market place in March
AS
Press release by HKTDC
the world’s largest jewellery marketplace, the HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show and the
HKTDC Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show
edition of HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show will
are superb platforms for maximising buyers’ sourcing oppor-
take place from 3–7 March 2016 at the Hong Kong Convention
tunities and expanding exhibitors’ business. In its 2015 edi-
& Exhibition Centre. Around 4,400 exhibitors are expected to
tion, the two fairs attracted over 4,360 exhibitors from 52
gather at the twin shows in 2016, with over 30 pavilions set up
countries and regions, and welcomed 76,000 visitors from
to strengthen its position as the world’s largest international
140 countries and regions, setting a new record. Following
jewellery marketplace. Among exhibitors that have already
the tremendous success, the 3rd edition of HKTDC Hong Kong
confirmed participation are renowned companies including
International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show will open its door
Dehres, Kuwayama, Lili Jewelry, Roberto Coin, A. A Rachminov
from 1–5 March 2016 at the AsiaWorld-Expo, while the 33rd
Diamonds, Dimexon and Novel Collection etc.
THRILLING PARTICIPATION
The Jewellery Show features eight themed zones for key market segments to meet buyers’ needs and targets. HALL OF FAME
Presence of the international group pavilions proves again the global influence of the two shows, the line-up includes Brazil, the Chinese mainland, Germany, India, Italy, Japan, Korea,
BRINGS TOGETHER TOP-TIER INTERNATIONAL BRAND NAMES IN A PRESTIGIOUS AND ELEGANT SETTING
Myanmar, Singapore, Spain, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Turkey, and the United States etc. The France Pavilion will be making its first debut at the Jewellery Show. Tanzanite Foundation will also set up pavilion of its own at Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show. The two fairs gather altogether 34 group pavilions.
DEBUT OF WEDDING BIJOUX AND T-GOLD+METS PAVILION The Jewellery Show features eight themed zones for key market segments to meet buyers’ needs and targets. Hall of Fame brings together top-tier international brand names in a prestigious and elegant setting. Hall of Extraordinary is an elite section exclusively for high-end fine jewellery pieces. World of Glamour highlights the expertise in jewellery manufacturing of Hong Kong-based exhibitors. Antique & Vintage Jewellery Galleria showcases the glamour of classic jewellery from bygone times. Treasures of Craftsmanship features carvings from precious/semi-precious stones, gold or silver
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66
decorative items, precious ornaments and jewelled accessories. Other special themed zones are Designer Galleria, Hall of Jade Jewellery, and Hall of Time.
WEDDING BIJOUX and T-GOLD+METS pavilion are making their debut this year. The former is specially designed for a stunning range of bridal jewellery. Co-organised by HKTDC, HKJJA and Fiera di Vicenza, T-GOLD+METS pavilion will feature international professional jewellery and watch making machinery, equipment, technology and supplies.
NEW ROUGH STONES & MINERALS ZONE In Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show, Hall of Fine Diamonds shows carat-size loose diamonds to best advantage as well as provides a discreet trading ambience. Treasures of Nature features a rich source of precious stones in many different cuts. Treasures of Ocean features a wide variety of quality pearls. Making its first presence this year, Rough Stones & Minerals will showcase unpolished and uncut precious stones and gems.
LUSTROUS DESIGN TO SHINE The 17th edition of The Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition – provides a platform for the local jewellery designers to showcase their strengths and talents. The theme of this year’s competition is “Harmony”, as diligence, the can-do spirit and cultural diversity are the foundations of Hong Kong’s prosperity and dynamism. A total of 277 entries are received and the winning pieces will be on display at Hall 1E Concourse during the fair period. Also, the biennial Chuk Kam Jewellery Design Competition is now in its 16th edition. The overall theme of the 2016 competition is ‘Gold 4.0- Innovate outside of the box’ with group themes of ‘Renewed Traditions’, ‘Time and Tides’, and ‘Future Construction’. A shuttle bus service will run between the HKCEC and Asia World-Expo during the overlapping period of the two fairs. A kaleidoscope of events adds colour to the shows, including the opening ceremony, cocktail reception, gala dinner, mini-parades, seminar series, buyer forum and industry experts’ presentations.
TRADE GROWTH IN MAJOR MARKETS In the first ten months of 2015, Hong Kong’s total exports of fine jewellery reached US$ 5.7 billion. The top three markets are the United States, Switzerland and the United Kingdom, collectively accounting for 50 % of the total export value. Hong Kong’s exports to USA and UK increased by 6.5 % and 8.3 %; export to Chinese Mainland noted a significant growth of 28 % over the same period last year.
Ganyklų str. 18, LT-00138 Palanga, Lithuania Tel./fax: +370 460 51230; Mob. +370 698 79791 E-mail: info@ambermanus.com www.ambermanus.com
UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
AMBER EXTRACTION in UKRAINE By Olena BELICHENKO, Ph. D., Amber Expert of IAA, State Gemmological Centre of Ukraine Sites of illegal extraction of amber in Olevsk district Zhytomyr region
In March 2013 in the Baltic Jewellery News an article entitled “Production of amber in Ukraine - Problems and Prospects“ was published, where the author talks about the situation with the production of amber in Ukraine and the ways of development of the amber industry in the country. What has changed in three years?
AS
“Center “Sunshine craft“. Balance reserves 42.5 tons. Industrial development on the deposit began in 2013, about 3.7 tons of amber were produced in total. In 2013–2014, the preliminary geological-economic assessment on the amber of one of the deposit sites “Zolote“ in the Dubrovitsky district of the Rovno region was carried out. The site is classified as industrially significant with previously explored and assessed amber raw reserves of category C2 in
of 2015 in Ukraine four deposits were explored –
number of 74.4 tones. In 2015 prospecting works on a deposit
“Klesovskoye“, “Vilne“, “Vladimirets-Vostochny“,
were continued.
“Zolote“, all of them are in the Rivne region.
In January 2016, the Supreme Economic Court returned
Klesovskoye amber deposit was discovered in 1987, its bal-
to state control the subsidiary company “Ukrburshtyn.“
ance reserves 103.8 tons. Production of amber in the deposit
Subsidiary company “Ukrburshtyn“ of state public limited
began in 1993. From 2009 to 2012, the industrial production
company “Ukrainian Polymetals“ since 2003 has been in a state
of amber was not carried out. In 2013, State Enterprise “Amber
of bankruptcy and since 2005 was controlled by Creditors'
Ukraine“ resumes works on Klesovskoye deposit. During the
committee and sanitation manager, instead of the state. It
period of development, it has produced about 31 tons of
should be noted that the State Enterprise “Ukrburshtin“ has
amber.
a special permit for geological exploration and experimental
In 1988–1990, as a result of prospecting and prospecting-
and industrial development of deposit of amber “Alekseevka“
evaluation works the deposit “Vilne“ in Dubrovitsky area was
in Rivne region, of area of one thousand and twenty-seven
explored. In 1992–1999, a preliminary deposit exploration was
hectares (one of the largest in Ukraine). Subsidiary company
carried out, balance reserves 12.3 tons. Industrial production
“Ukrburshtyn“ plans to continue geological exploration of the
at the deposit was not carried out.
deposit in 2016 already under the control of the state.
The deposit “Vladimirets-Vostochny“, located in Vladimirets
Thus, in 2013, legally operating companies produced about
region, was explored in 2008 by limited liability company
7.1 tons of amber.
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68
prospectors, with confiscation of means of production were carried out. Security Service of Ukraine and Ministry of Internal
passed not only the Rivne region, but also parts of Zhytomyr
Affairs of Ukraine began fight against buyers and processors
region and Volyn regions. By estimates of experts, the turn-
of illegally extracted raw materials, liquidation of the border
over of the market of amber, which is not controlled by the
channels of export of amber to the European Union countries.
state in Ukraine can reach 300 million dollars in a year, and the
Thus, representatives of the State border service of Ukraine
volume of illegally extracted amber exceeds at 10–15 times
and the Border service of the Republic of Poland agreed about
legal production.
exchange of information about the facts of smuggling of amber
In 2015, the problem of illegal extraction of amber reached
through joint border. Besides, employees of border services
the level of the country's leadership. In May 2015, the President
of two countries agreed about joint studying of ways and
of Ukraine Petr Poroshenko during the press conference on
schemes of smuggling of amber, as well as about studying of
the occasion of the annual address to the Verkhovna Rada
possible ways of concealment of this stone in motor transport
demanded a speedy adoption of the bill, which is intended to
and freights crossing border. Nearly every week the press ser-
protect the environment and the interests of the state in the
vices of Security Service of Ukraine, Ministry of Internal Affairs
process of production of amber. It should be noted that since
of Ukraine, tax, customs and border service report on deten-
2010 6 drafts of the laws regulating amber production were
tion of consignments of amber.
developed, however all of them were rejected by commissions
However, it is only one of the ways to decrease the level
of experts of the profile ministries as they contained separate
of illegal production and smuggling, a withdrawal of amber
standard and legal shortcomings. In April 2015 the Verkhovna
branch from a shadow is possible only in case of legalization,
Rada adopted in the first reading the Law of Ukraine “About
first of all, of amber production by prospectors.
production and realization of amber“. This law offers an inte-
Thus, since 2013 in Ukraine industrial production of amber
grated approach to the solution of the problems stated above,
was resumed, production is conducted on “Klesovskoye“ and
suggesting solving a problem of employment of illegal pros-
“Vladimirets-Vostochny“ deposits, exploration of Vilne and
pectors by stimulating them to associate in prospecting artels.
Alekseyevka deposits is in progress. However, the creation
It was supposed that after the accounting of all remarks and
of a civilized market of amber in the country requires, first,
offers, the law would be considered at autumn session by the
to address the problem of unauthorized production at the
Verkhovna Rada. Though in October the profile Committee
legislative level.
of the Verkhovna Rada at the meeting supported the bill as prepared for the second reading, most of experts consider that it will not be accepted as the law laid down norms that cannot be executed within the legal deadlines and methods. However, until the end of 2015 the Verkhovna Rada has not reviewed the offered bill. Journalists compare a situation with unauthorized production of amber in Ukraine to war, and experts speak about catastrophic consequences for ecology and economy of the areas captured by amber fever. After an order of the president of Ukraine Poroshenko to take measures to fight against illegal production, buying up and smuggling of amber, tens of detentions of illegal amber
Deposit “Vladimirets-Vostochny”
UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
However, the scale of the illegal extraction is much greater, in 2013–2015 unauthorized prospecting activities encom-
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
Official Price for raw amber by
Kaliningrad Amber Combine March 2016 AMBER FROM RUSSIA Regular Amber Piece Size
Price/1 kg – EUR
+4 – 11.5
16.41
+11,5 faction
78.74
+14 faction
126.15
+16 faction
277.88
+23 faction
648.20
+32 faction
1398.28
2,5 gr. – 5 gr.
151.31
4gr. – 25gr.
194.74
50 gr. – 100 gr.
not determined
100 gr. – 200 gr.
not determined
200 gr. – 300 gr.
not determined
300 gr. – 500 gr.
not determined
*RUB/EUR exchange rate on 26th of February 2016
www.balticjewellerynews.com
72
March 2016 AMBER FROM RUSSIA Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 kg – EUR
+5 faction
15
.+6 faction
20
+8 faction
45
+11,5 faction
140
+14 faction
170
+16 faction
400
2,5 gr. – 5 gr.
450
5 gr. – 10 gr.
1000
10 gr. – 20 gr.
1800
20 gr. – 50 gr.
3200
50 gr. – 100 gr.
3500
100 gr. – 200 gr.
4500
200 gr. – 300 gr.
5500
300 gr. – 500 gr
6000
FACTIONS 20–50G RAW AMBER PRICE CHANGE 2006 FERBRUARY – 2016 MARCH
4300 3900 3500 3100 2700 1900 1500 1100 700 300
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 invest@gold.org
If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: info@balticjewellerynews.com
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber March 2016 AMBER FROM UKRAINE Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 kg – EUR
2,5 gr. – 5 gr.
400
5 gr. – 10 gr.
900
10 gr. – 20 gr.
1600
20 gr. – 50 gr.
3000
50 gr. – 100 gr.
3400
100 gr. – 200 gr.
4100
WHITE ROUND AMBER BALLS Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 gr – EUR
5 mm – 7 mm
7
7 mm – 10 mm
9
10 mm – 12 mm
12
12 mm – 15 mm
15
15 mm – 20 mm
24
20 mm and larger
28
COGNAC ROUND AMBER BALLS Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 gr – EUR
5 mm – 10 mm
4
10 mm – 15 mm
8
15 mm – 20 mm
16
20 mm and larger
20
www.balticjewellerynews.com
74
Our shops: Klaipeda, Turgaus str.3, t. +370 46 213390, mob. +370 619 55099 Vilnius, Didzioji str. 6, t. +370 5 261 7058, mob. +370 693 04542 Riga, Kramu 4, t./fax. +371 29484807
Beauty and Luxury of Baltic Amber !
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Price for Amber
Silver 925 Jewellery March 2016
Amber Silver 925 Jewellery
Price/gr EUR
Handmade
2.3
Machine made
1.6
AMBER SILVER 925 JEWELLERY PRICE CHANGE AUGUST 2010 – MARCH 2016 EUR / gr 3
2
1
0
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03
Handmade
Machine made
SILVER PRICE CHANGE 2010 AUGUST – MARCH 2016 EUR per Ounce 40
30
20
0
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
Source: www.macrotrends.net
If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: info@balticjewellerynews.com
GOLD PRICE CHANGE 2014–2016
EUR PER TROY OUNCE 1200
1100
1000
900
800
2014 2015 2016 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 01 invest@gold.org
www.balticjewellerynews.com
77
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Gold Price
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
GLOBAL JEWELLERY MARKET: INNOVATIONS AND OPPORTUNITIES By Jasmine SENG, Industry Research Associate at Euromonitor International
jewellery is relatively more stable compared to that of real jewellery. Given the higher price point, it is not a surprise that the demand for
GLOBAL LANDSCAPE OF THE JEWELLERY MARKET
real jewellery would fluctuate more due to mac-
Not long ago, we rang in the New Year, plac-
jewellery.
roeconomic conditions compared to costume
ing our bets on a recovering US economy and
In today’s volatile economy, jewellery brands
with hopes that the slowdown of the Chinese
need to constantly seek opportunities to grow
economy would not be too drastic. Alas, not only
their product offerings and provide higher value
are oil prices slumping, the volatile equities market in China
for every dollar in order to keep their revenue growth positive.
led to the implementation of a circuit-breaker. Amidst pessimistic economic conditions, the global jewellery industry is
YEAR-ON-YEAR GROWTH RATES OF MARKET SIZES IN THE WORLD
definitely not excluded from its impact. In these dire circumstances, brands need to seek opportunities for growth continuously in order to maintain a healthy balance sheet. This
Growth rates of market sizes based on retail value, measured based on US$ mn, current prices, year-on-year exchange rates.
article will look at how innovation applies to the jewellery market as an area of opportunity.
18 %
0.2
Despite being susceptible to economic instability, year-
16 %
0.2
on-year growth rates of market size for jewellery in retail value
14 %
0.1
(based on US$ million, current prices, year-on-year exchange
12 %
rates) remained positive in 2014–2015 standing at 0.2 %, which
10 %
is the only category within personal accessories that registered
8%
a positive year-on-year growth rate. In comparison, other cat-
6%
egories within personal accessories, such as bags and luggage,
4%
watches and writing instruments, registered -2.2 %, -3.3 % and
2%
0.0
-4.8 % year-on-year growth rates, respectively.
0%
0.0
However, the rise and fall in growth rates of real jewellery
0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.0 0.0
2011-11 2011-12 2012-13 2013-14 2014-15
value over the 2010–2015 period, was steeper than that of
■ Jewellery ■ Fine Jewellery Source: Euromonitor International
costume jewellery. This shows that the demand for costume
www.balticjewellerynews.com
78
■ Costume Jewellery
approximately 25 % of its revenue from March 2014 to March 2015. Chow Tai Fook retains its strong foothold in the fine
fragmented, making volatile macroeconomic conditions just
jewellery industry, leading with a brand share of 2.6 % in the
one of the many problems that plague the jewellery industry.
world in 2014. However, gold jewellery is widespread in the market and it is no longer a novelty to own such a piece. The raison d’être
GLOBAL BRAND SHARES OF REAL JEWELLERY IN RETAIL VALUE (%)
for brands exploring new materials is to continue enhancing their value proposition and maintain a steady flow of consumers; both return visits and new buyers, by diversifying their
92,4 %
product offerings. Needless to say, these materials offer vari-
2,6 % 1,9 %
ous properties which substantiate their value. Silver, despite
1,6 %
being a softer metal than gold, is a popular metal used in both
1,5 %
costume and real jewellery due to its lower cost. Different com-
1,0 %
binations of gold and other metals, which result in alloys of different colours, have also surfaced in the market in order to capture the attention of buyers. Attractive combinations like copper and gold rose to popularity in the 1920s, during the mid-Victorian era. The combination of copper and gold produces what we know as Rose Gold. Apart from playing with
■ Others ■ Chow Tai Fook ■ Lao Feng Xiang ■ Tiffany & Co. ■ Cartier ■ Lao Miao Source: Euromonitor International
colour combinations to provide a wider product selection, jewellery makers have also been exploring new materials to be imbued in their latest creations. Not only are they looking to inculcate new materials into their jewellery pieces to attract the audience, jewellery makers are factoring in practicality,
Among the top 10 real jewellery brands in the world, only
like durability, when choosing materials. Fine jewellery mak-
four out of 10 brands have an impactful global footprint while
ers are slowly introducing more platinum products to their
the rest target more local or regional markets. Given the frag-
collections. Platinum is highly durable due to its resistance to
mented and highly competitive global landscape of jewellery,
corrosion and high temperatures, making it a suitable mate-
coupled with economic instability in the world, real jewellery
rial to be used in rings and jewellery products that are worn
players would need to seek opportunities in order to deliver
every day. Taking the game up a notch is Tiffany & Co., which
sales. Real jewellery brands vying for a larger slice of the pie
introduced its own alloy, trademarked as Rubedo, in honour
globally would need to innovate and promulgate different
of its 175th anniversary. Rubedo resembles rose gold, however,
product categories on top of evolving their marketing strate-
what sets it apart is the lower price point of Rubedo which
gies in different locations to cater to the various needs of their
would mean a larger target audience would be able to afford
expanding customer base.
a Tiffany piece. Trademarking the Rubedo metal would translate to a higher perceived value of Tiffany & Co.’s Rubedo prod-
EXPLORING NEW METALS – A MELTING POT OF OPPORTUNITIES
ucts due to its exclusivity to the brand. Additionally, curating one’s own material exudes the innovative proposition of the
Real jewellery brands have been creative with the combi-
brand, which is a break from the norm for luxury houses that
nation of precious metals and gemstones and the way these
bank on the heritage and long-lived tradition of their brands
precious elements are presented, in order to captivate buy-
to push price points.
ers. Gold and diamonds are traditionally popular with fine
In an industry where designs of the product are very much
jewellery makers as essential materials for crafting a piece of
encapsulated around the precious gemstone, jewellery players
exquisite jewellery. According to the World Gold Council, the
are restricted in their level of innovation which in turn restricts
bulk of demand for gold falls under jewellery. Gold jewellery
their variety in product offerings. By manufacturing their own
remains popular in countries like China and India, where gold
alloy, jewellery players are able to customise the composi-
jewellery remains a popular gift for weddings. According to
tion of the metal in order to suit their cost and profit margins,
Chow Tai Fook’s 2015 Annual Report, gold products generated
whilst maintaining their brand image. After all, marketing is
www.balticjewellerynews.com
79
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE Additionally, the global jewellery landscape is also very
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
In order for jewellery brands to penetrate more markets and intensify their global presence, INNOVATION IS VITAL
what propels the idea of every piece of jewellery to popularity. With control over the supply of the alloy, coupled with the right marketing strategy, jewellery players would be able to
EVEN IN THE MIDST OF BUILDING ON THEIR HERITAGE TO SELL THEIR BRAND
extend their product offerings.
THE RISE OF THE MILLENNIALS: INNOVATION AS A SOLUTION FOR FUTURE DEMAND Greater innovation and larger product offerings are fundamental in driving demand from the millennials. Millennials
at 5.4 %, and the US with a CAGR of 2.9 %. Among the top six
refers to the population reaching young adulthood around
countries with the largest millennial populations, Indonesia
the year 2000, who are armed with the spending power today.
leads with a projected 7.0 % CAGR in the millennial population
According to Euromonitor International, millennials are more
for the 2015–2020 period. This is not surprising considering
experimental and expressive in their choices. Therein lies an
the economic reforms that are slowly occurring in Indonesia
opportunity for brands to be daring in exploring new mate-
that look towards improving the infrastructure, which would
rials and reinventing the way millennials perceive and pur-
drive the economy further.
chase jewellery. The millennials are receptive towards new
EXPLORING NEW OPPORTUNITIES
ideas and altering their perception of new alloys would present an opportunity for a new consumer base for jewellery
In order for jewellery brands to penetrate more markets
made from new materials.
and intensify their global presence, innovation is vital even in the midst of building on their heritage to sell their brand. In our ever-changing economic landscape, innovation is not
LARGEST POPULATION OF MILLENNIALS BY MARKET (MILLIONS)
restricted to certain industries, like electronics and appliances. Instead, goods in the luxury industry and fast moving consumer goods can also tap into innovation in every aspect. However, in adopting innovation, manufacturers and brand
250
strategists alike have to be aware of the demographics of the population in order to tap into the right target audience
200
effectively. In conclusion, even for brands with deep-rooted heritage, there is no escaping that innovation will be the key
150
to untapped opportunities. 100
DEFINITIONS: According to Euromonitor International, real jewellery
50
(sometimes known as fine jewellery) includes all jewellery items manufactured with precious metals and/or gemstones.
0
India China
Precious metals include gold, white gold, platinum, sterling sil-
US Indonesia Brazil Russia
ver, palladium, rhodium, titanium, or alloys of one or more of
■ Largest population of millennials by market (millions) Source: Euromonitor International
the above. Precious gemstones include diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and real pearls.
India, China and the US have always been the top three
According to Euromonitor International, costume jewel-
key jewellery markets, measured in market value size in US$
lery (also called fashion jewellery) includes all jewellery items
based on current prices with fixed year-on-year exchange
manufactured with non-precious metals and their alloys, sil-
rates, after India overtook Japan as the world’s third larg-
ver (other than sterling silver), semi-precious gemstones, glass,
est jewellery market in 2006. Coincidentally, these countries
plastic, leather or other synthetic materials.
contain the largest populations of millennials and will no doubt remain the key growth markets in jewellery over the 2015–2020 forecast period. Over the 2010–2015 review period, China saw a value CAGR of 6.9 %, with India trailing behind
www.balticjewellerynews.com
80
Vartodami alkoholÄŻ, rizikuojate savo sveikata, ĹĄeimos ir visuomenÄ—s gerove
tel.: +48 696 22 66 20 email.: office@amberinside.com www.amberinside.com
BOOK REVIEW
AMBER. Simply AMBER There
By Jurgita LUDAVICIENE
is a number of publications about amber which holds a special role in the Lithuanian
culture. From folklore, poetry and culturological research to
Agnė Dautartaitė-Krutulė was the artist of the publication,
the history of amber or exhibition catalogues. The theme of
and the book itself was published in the Publishing House of
amber in Lithuania tends to become popular and once again
Vilnius Academy of Arts. This publication is a rare example of
loses its relevance depending on historical, cultural and social
the unity of design and typography, where images exist paral-
circumstances. However, publications in the English language
lel to the text instead of simply illustrating it, by leaving space
are especially important in order to reveal the importance of
for the imagination of the viewer. For this reason Ministry of
amber for Lithuanians; they are like constant representatives
Culture of the Republic of Lithuania in 2015 the most beautiful
of the Lithuanian culture, where everything is significant –
books contest nominated this book with a diploma. As for the
both the content and the form. Both the text, the visuals, and,
concept, this book is intended for the general public. It popu-
finally (or, perhaps, firstly) – the polygraphic quality and design.
larly presents the history of amber, its properties and use in
Publishers are also important – those who continuously
medicine, its perception as a natural phenomenon, inclusions
promote amber among the general public, in Lithuania and
and the colour spectrum of amber; the book includes descrip-
abroad. Museum workers, artists, researchers. Virginija and
tions on how real amber is distinguished from the fake, how it
Kazimieras Mizgiris are one of the people who cannot imag-
is found and collected, the most famous archaeological find-
ine their lives without amber: they are the founders of amber
ings and Lithuanian artists who work with amber, as well as
museums and galleries, promoters of amber, patrons and
the Amber Road. It is an all-round presentation of amber as
collectors. In 2015, they have initiated and published a book
a natural, historical, cultural and artistic phenomenon in the
in English dedicated to amber, with a laconic title – "Amber".
English language. This publication will undoubtedly find its
www.balticjewellerynews.com
84
BOOK REVIEW readers among those who love amber; on the other hand, it
lines and hollows. Inclusions and the colour palette of amber
also contains a lot of valuable information for those who are
are clearly revealed; the designer presents artist works reveal-
just starting to learn about the world of amber. Information is
ing their originality, as well as the properties of the material
presented in an understandable, popular and attractive way;
itself. A static, composed, elegant, and even aristocratic book
from the lines of poetry to application-oriented texts. The
image is created, demonstrating a clear understanding of the
world of amber is revealed in all its beauty: it is mysterious,
necessity of the product which will fill the niche of high-qual-
colourful and attractive. The design, polygraphy and typog-
ity, aesthetic Lithuanian publications about amber, intended
raphy of the book must also be mentioned separately. From
for foreign readers. The book "Amber" is a rare example of the
the rough book cover that speaks of blue ground deposits
harmony of text and images, demonstrating close coopera-
from which bright yellow letters emerge spelling "AMBER",
tion between the authors/compilers and the designer. High
to the carefully considered compositional solutions of each
polygraphic culture, as well as remarkably well-chosen paper
page, revealing the professional work of the artist. Mildly yel-
and font can also be observed in this book. This conceptual
lowish paper, detailed photos of amber pieces and works of
and aesthetic publication has all the prerequisites to become
art, matched with the muted fragments of the same photos,
both a great example of book art, and one of the most sig-
as if they were shadows accompanying each page – all of this
nificant waymarks helping readers start their journey along
creates compositional unity.
the amber road.
Amber is shown up-close to reveal all the beauty of its
› www.ambergallery.lt
surface, its clarity and the texture of matt amber pieces, its
www.balticjewellerynews.com
85
INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION REPORT
The operational year of
THE IAA LABORATORY
By Agnieszka KLIKOWICZ
microscopes, UV light, a polariscope and other equipment necessary to properly assess the
IN
Novolac
2015, the International Amber
submitted materials. Items submitted for
Association opened its new head
testing are examined using non-destructive
office in Gdańsk, at 1 Warzywnicza Street. In
infrared spectrometry that does not require
addition to the IAA office, a gallery and lab-
special sample preparation. This method is
oratory were opened in the facilities owned
used to examine even the smallest amounts
by the city's municipality. Ever since the asso-
of material. The spectrophotometric test pro-
ciation was founded, there have been dis-
duces an infrared (IR) spectrum of the analysed
cussions on the necessity to establish a place
samples. The shape of the spectrum and the
where it would be possible to get reliable infor-
presence of characteristic bands make it possible
mation about the quality of amber. Jewellery market
to identify the material and confirm or deny any treat-
representatives also encouraged to prepare and implement a
ment. Item analysis by zooming in the view, i.e. using UV light,
product certification system. By working in an expert group
makes it possible to determine any treatment or reconstruc-
of geologists, chemists, gemmologists, amber experts and
tion that has been carried out. Later, a kind of match occurs
practitioners, IAA specialists prepared a system for classifying
between the treatment methods used and the determination
Baltic amber gemstones, amber imitations, raw materials and
of features typical of changes in amber. An IAA Amber Expert
semi-finished products. This is an indisputable achievement
will easily determine any traces of heating, dyeing, pressing,
appreciated by foreign laboratories and amber researcher, as
filling or coating. However, since manufacturers are using
well as amber trade. This aim would not be achieved without
increasingly inventive methods to treat amber, buyers and
the cooperation with higher education establishments: the
specialists must continuously deepen their knowledge about
Museum of the Earth of the Polish Academy of Science (Prof.
the applied procedures.
Barbara Kosmowska-Ceranowicz), University of Silesia (Aniela
Currently, samples are tested within 1-2 working days,
Matuszewska Ph.D.), the GUT Gdańsk University of Technology
therefore the interest in analyses is increasing, and this in turn
(Ewa Wagner-Wysiecka Ph.D., D. Sc.) and the University of
determines an increase in the number of products tested.
Gdańsk (Prof. Szadziewski’s team).
At present, the IAA Laboratory has accumulated the largest
The IAA Amber Laboratory established in Gdańsk uses
commercial library of the infrared (IR) spectra of amber and
a spectrophotometer with attenuated total reflectance
its imitations. The increasing cooperation with the Gdańsk
(ATR) for non-invasive examination of products, along with
University of Technology has increased the resources of both the IAA and the GUT. The IAA amber laboratory is also able to identify inclusions. Inclusions are described by palaeontologists – IAA experts from the Faculty of Biology, University of Gdańsk. Orders are usually placed with the IAA Amber Laboratory personally, however, samples for analysis are often delivered via post from around the world. A client who has entrusted the IAA Amber Laboratory to perform an analysis may order two types of documents. A plastic card in a credit card format with all the main information about the item in English (photo, mass, colour, trans-
Epoxy resin
parency) and expert conclusions with comments about any
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86
INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION REPORT IR Spectrophotometer in IAA laboratory
Certificate of amber identification
treatment or reconstruction. The card contains a QR code for
made from synthetic resins (phenolic resin – novolac or resol).
verifying the authenticity of the document on the IAA web-
Today, the most popular synthetic resins are polyesters
site. It is recommended to use this card as a certificate con-
and epoxy resins. A skilled specialist will immediately notice
firming the authenticity of the product that is intended to be
the difference which is easily confirmed with an IR analysis;
sold. The certificate is added to the product and given to the
however, there were also cases of perfectly faked beads, cab-
buyer after the product is bought. The second document is
ochons and amber gemstones brought by buyers with many
the test certificate; it includes the infrared (IR) spectrum of the
years of experience in order to confirm whether this was amber.
sample and indicates the name of the client. It is issued for all
From a scientific point of view, other resins found together
fakes, non-standard products and, upon request, for amber.
with Baltic amber are also an interesting subject. There were
It can be issued in Polish or English.
cases when black pseudostantienite of unique size (mass 506 g)
The main clients of the laboratory are manufacturers who want to confirm the authenticity of valuable products and sell them at a higher price. The
was found – a resin piece found together with amber, for example, in Ukrainian deposits. On several occa-
Pseudostantienite
sions, the Laboratory received the so-called
number of retailers who want to have their
young amber – gedanite, a transitional type
products tested is also increasing. The clients
between gedanite and succinite, as well as
of the IAA Amber Laboratory also include
fragments of modern synthetic resins found
various institutions – museums, galleries
around amber extraction localities and near
or forensic examination offices. Most of the
the sea. All specimens that come from veri-
tests ordered include jewellery. A large part
fied locations become reference samples in
of the tests include amber stones or nuggets,
comparative databases.
semi-finished products, beads, etc. prepared
We wish to sincerely thank the members
for further production. Various historical
of IAA who firstly provided the financial sup-
objects, sculptures, rosaries, pacifiers for children and the Pope's
port in order to acquire the laboratory equipment, and now
commemorative medals are also submitted for analysis.
provide items for testing and donate fakes and imitations to
Sometimes old items thought to be amber are presented
the ever increasing educational collection. The large IR spectra
for analysis, however, the analysis then reveals that these
library and the growing amber, fossil resin and imitation col-
objects are simply old, mostly pre-WWII products that were
lection provide an increasingly clearer view of the market.
BACTERIA in ancient flea may
INCLUSIONS
be ancestor of the Black Death Press release by OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY
are consistent with modern forms of those bacteria. They are a coccobacillus bacteria; they are seen in both rod and
CORVALLIS, Ore.–
nearly spherical shapes; and are similar to those of Yersinia pestis. Of the pathogenic bacteria transmitted by fleas today,
About 20 million years ago a single flea became entombed in
only Yersinia has such shapes.
amber with tiny bacteria attached to it, providing what research-
“Aside from physical characteristics of the fossil bacteria
ers believe may be the oldest evidence on Earth of a dreaded
that are similar to plague bacteria, their location in the rectum
and historic killer – an ancient strain of the bubonic plague.
of the flea is known to occur in modern plague bacteria,” Poinar
If indeed the fossil bacteria are related to plague
said. “And in this fossil, the presence of similar bacteria in a
bacteria,Yersinia pestis, the discovery would show that this
dried droplet on the proboscis of the flea is consistent with the
scourge, which killed more than half the population of Europe
method of transmission of plague bacteria by modern fleas.”
in the 14 century, actually had been around for millions of
These findings are in conflict with modern genomic stud-
years before that, traveled around much of the world, and
ies indicating that the flea-plague-vertebrate cycle evolved
predates the human race.
only in the past 20,000 years, rather than 20 million. However,
th
Findings on this extraordinary amber fossil have been
today there are several strains of Yersinia pestis, and there is
published in the Journal of Medical Entomology by George
evidence that past outbreaks of this disease were caused by
Poinar, Jr., an entomology researcher in the College of Science
still different strains, some of which are extinct today.
at Oregon State University, and a leading expert on plant and
While human strains of Yersinia could well have
animal life forms found preserved in this semi-precious stone.
evolved some 10,000 to 20,000 years ago, Poinar said,
It can’t be determined with certainty that these bacte-
ancient Yersinia strains that evolved as rodent parasites could
ria, which were attached to the flea’s proboscis in a dried
have appeared long before humans existed. These ancient
droplet and compacted in its rectum, are related to Yersinia
strains would certainly be extinct by now, he said.
pestis, scientists say. But their size, shape and characteristics
The complex mode of transmission of plague is also reflected in the flea seen in this fossil. When a flea feeds on a plague-infected animal, the Yersinia
FLEA IN AMBER. This flea preserved about 20 million years ago in amber may carry evidence of an ancestral strain of the bubonic plague. (Photo by George Poinar, Jr., courtesy of Oregon State University)
pestis bacteria taken up with the blood often form a viscous mass in the flea’s proventriculus, located between the stomach and esophagus. When this happens, the fleas can’t obtain enough blood, and as they attempt to feed again, bacteria are often forced back out through the proboscis and into the wound. This blockage is in part what makes them effective vectors of the plague, and the dried droplets on the proboscis of the fossil flea could represent a sample of the sticky bacterial mass that was regurgitated. “If this is an ancient strain of Yersinia, it would be extraordinary,” Poinar said. “It would show that plague is actually an ancient disease that no doubt was infecting and possibly causing some extinction of animals long before any humans existed. Plague may have played a larger role in the past than
Bacteria on proboscis – The arrow points at bacteria on the pro boscis of this flea preserved in amber, which researchers believe may be an ancestral strain of the bacteria that causes bubonic pla gue. (Photo by George Poinar, Jr., courtesy of Oregon State University)
we imagined.” The fossil flea originated from amber mines in what is now the Dominican Republic, between Puerto Plata and Santiago.
www.balticjewellerynews.com
88
eruptions, led to the extinction of the dinosaurs. Some modern
few fleas of any type have been found preserved in amber,
diseases such as leishmaniasis and malaria clearly date to
Poinar said, and none have been reported with associated
those times.
microorganisms, as in this case. This specimen had some other
Bubonic plague in modern times can infect and kill a wide
unique morphological features that indicate it’s a species that
range of animals, in addition to humans. It is still endemic in
long ago went extinct.
many countries, including the United States where it’s been
But it was the associated bacteria that fascinated the researchers. “Since the dried droplet with bacteria is still attached to
found in prairie dogs and some other animals. Even though today it is treatable with antibiotics, in the U.S. four people have died from plague so far this year.
the tip of the proboscis, the flea may have become entrapped
During the Middle Ages, however, three phases of the dis-
in resin shortly after it had fed on an infected animal,” Poinar
ease – bubonic, septicemic and pneumonic plague - earned
said. “This might have been one of the rodents that occurred
a feared reputation. Periodic waves of what was called the
in the Dominican amber forest. Rodent hair has been recov-
Black Death, for the gruesome condition in which it left its
ered from that amber source.”
victims, swept through Europe and Asia, altogether killing an
Flea-like creatures found in conventional stone fossils date back to the time of the dinosaurs, Poinar said, and the role of insects in general, and as carriers of disease, may have played
estimated 75 to 200 million people. Scholars say that religious, social and economic changes caused by the plague altered the course of world history.
a role in the demise of the ancient reptiles. In 2008, Poinar and his wife, Roberta Poinar, wrote a book
ABOUT THE OSU COLLEGE OF SCIENCE:
“What Bugged the Dinosaurs? Insects, Disease and Death in
As one of the largest academic units at OSU, the College
the Cretaceous.” It explored the evolutionary rise of insects
of Science has seven departments and 12 pre-professional
around the same time that dinosaurs went extinct. The the-
programs. It provides the basic science courses essential to
sis developed in the book added insect-borne diseases as a
the education of every OSU student, builds future leaders in
likely component, that, along with other biotic and abiotic
science, and its faculty are international leaders in scientific
factors such as climate change, asteroid impacts and volcanic
research.
INCLUSIONS
Millions of years ago the area was a tropical moist forest. Very
TOOLS
THE LOST-WAX CASTING general rules THE
lost-wax casting (investment casting ) – a technological process which is one of the oldest known metal-forming/casting technique. It’s a method, where a molten metal is poured into a mold that has been created by means
of a wax model. Once the mold is made, the wax model is melted and drained away. Today – the machines, the materials and the technique combine together to provide the best casting results. Especially in jewellery, where the tiny details have to be extremely accurate, the significant casting rules should be obeyed:
1. The main sprue – a crucial element of the whole invest-
In some cases the correct placement of the sprue may
ment casting process – the shape of the sprue guarantees fast
require trying different versions of placing it on the casted
and laminar metal flow which is essential for a good form-fill-
detail.
ing. Every turbulences will reduce the metal speed, increasing the pouring time of the liquid metal, resulting in losing metal temperature.
The main sprue construction. (The left side – GOOD, the right – BAD) Different ways of feed sprue creations.
2. The feed sprue – The right shape of the feed sprues (injection channels) avoids the stopping of liquid metal on its way to the casted element. The feed sprue’s job is similar to
3. Wax tree building – The angle between the main sprue
the main sprue. Incorrect way of building the casting channels
and the feed sprue in casting tree should stands at 20-30o. The
may cause turbulences and metal twisting causing additional
angle has a direct impact on the free movement of wax and
problems in the casting process. The correct width, number
finally – on the liquid metal movement.
of sprues and the place, where they are fixed on the piece are important for the whole process. Proper sprue reduces the gas porosity and shrinkage of the metal having direct impact on the final quality of the jewellery. The feed sprue construction. (The left side – GOOD, the right – BAD)
Right angle diagram.
www.balticjewellerynews.com
90
GENERAL BASIC RULES BELOW, HELP TO IMPROVE AND INCREASE OVERALL CASTING QUALITY:
4. The Investment powder – keeping up with the instructions provided by the manufacturer is necessary. Mostly, it is 38 or 40 parts of water and 100 parts of investment powder. the strength. Adding to much water may lower the solidity of
yy It is recommended to use distilled water for the process.
gypsum and may lead to cracks in the gypsum form. In case
yy Always add powder to water (not vice-versa) .
of high ambient moisture, it can be used a little bit less water
yy The water temperature has a huge impact for the time of
because the investment powder already has some water inside.
curing
It is so important to own a proper vacuum mixer. That will
yy The working temperature should be mentioned in the
help to mix properly water and investment powder to avoid
manufacturers instruction.
bubbles which are one of the main reasons of form quality
yy The casting flask needs to be left away on a stable surface
decrease .
for 2 hours (don’t remove the rubber base). yy The investment powder (gypsum) is highly hydroscopic so it absorbs the moisture from the environment. yy The investment powder should be stored in a room temperature, avoiding temperature changes. Water and investment powder’s temperature should remain on the same level. yy The ambient humidity should never be above 36 % during the whole process yy Batches storage must be kept on euro palettes to provide airflow below. yy Shelf life of the powder should never be longer than 18 months. yy Warm up the furnace to 150°C before putting the flask into.
Casted wax tree.
yy Always go strictly with the process instruction. yy Check the ventilation around the casting machine
5. Casting alloys –only pure alloys should be used. During the preparations and before casting, strict rules should be kept
The article has been created in cooperation with P.A.T. Poland
(to prevent any gases and unwanted metals contamination).
Company. All necessary casting steps has been provided by casting specialist - Mr. Adam Kucharski. “Casting process is a complicated procedure and it’s not
yy Never use cooper from unknown supply, use only pure cooper (don’t use cooper from wires).
easy to get desired results when customers’ lack of knowledge
yy Always use more than 50 % of pure metal.
and experience is present, especially. So when buyer decides to
yy Remember to clean scrap metal ( acid, ultrasonic cleaner,
choose the production casting machine, has to consider (beyond efficiency/price ratio obviously) after-sale know-how support,
water ).
too” – he says.
yy It is recommended to use vacuum devices to degas the alloy. yy In case of any undesired metal contamination it is essential to make a refining process first. yy Don’t overheat the metal.
www.balticjewellerynews.com
91
TOOLS
More water will increase the gas permeability but will reduce
PERSONALITY
ONE STEP FORWARD –
an Interview with Professor Barbara KOSMOWSKA-CERANOWICZ By Anna SADO The long awaited atlas IR Imaginings of World Resins. Characteristics of Their Holotypes is a unique publication on an international scale. The materials for the publication – the infrared imaginings of fossil and sub-fossil resins, some amber imitations as well as the dictionary of mineralogical names of fossil, sub-fossil resins and resin-like substances – had been gathered for about 30 years. For the author, it is “merely one step forward”…
I AM
holding the long await-
and photograph specimens. Without their
ed ATLAS – the record
help and engagement it wouldn’t have
of 30 years of your work.
been possible to gather such substan-
You can say that. I had been gathering
tial material for research. I would like to
those curves since 1985. Today I can’t even
thank everyone.
remember what my initial ideas on their
Research material – even from
use were. The researchers in the 1950s and
a museum – isn’t always consistent
60s had different reasons for using absorp-
with its label. How did you deal with
tion spectroscopy. Curt W. Beck used it to
this problem?
identify products found in museums and
There is always such a risk. When I
at excavations, for the needs of archaeolo-
examine the material for the first time, I
gists; Światosław S. Sawkiewicz introduced
assumed that it is exactly what the label
the IRS method to basic amber examina-
says. Then, when more samples of the
tion in order to find out what the scope of
same material were available, I was able
succinte was on the territory of the then
to verify whether it is indeed the case.
USSR, and then he directed them to the needs of the indus-
The material I have gathered is based mainly on the samples
try. My aim was first to check what kind of resins, apart from
of fossil and sub-fossil resins, well-documented by trust-wor-
succinite are deposited nearby the deposits of lignite in the
thy people who bestowed the material – thanks to that it can
Bitterfeld region. Back then it was an incredibly interesting
be treated as exemplary for comparative studies while iden-
region for research into various resins’ occurrence. Currently
tifying further findings.
Indonesia is this kind of not fully researched natural laboratory.
A reliable description of a specimen is a prerequisite for a
You have researched samples of Indonesian res-
good publication. The other requirements are a good spec-
ins, as well as many others, from different parts of the
trometer and research method – I prefer the transmission
world.
method. The description has to include the place where the
When I got motivated to continue doing research, I exam-
holotype is available, although there aren’t many of those left nowadays.
ined virtually everything that I encountered. I couldn’t miss any chance to gain samples for research, be it from collectors
The dictionary of holotypes by Norbert Vávra, which
or museum institutions. I was lucky to have come across peo-
is a supplement to the ATLAS is a good example of an
ple who understand the value of research materials for sci-
ideal description.
ence: I have received many gifts from collectors and amber
The dictionary of holotypes “Mineralogical Names of
jewellers, museum workers let me take material for research
Fossil, Sub-fossil Resins and Resin-like Substances” includes
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92
PERSONALITY In October 2015 at the opening ceremony of the 16th edition of the International Trade Fair for Jewellery, Watches Gold Silver Time in Warsaw, Professor Barbara KOSMOWSKA-CERNOWICZ was awarded granted a Decoration of Honour “Meritorious for Polish Culture” granted by the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage in recognition of her 55 year-long career. Photo by: Norbert PIWOWARCZYK
encyclopaedic data about resins that have gained mineral-
I chose about 334 images from over 1100 of resins found
ogical names.
in many places of the world and made in different spectrom-
It is exceptionally valuable, not only because of its con-
eters. I have deliberately chosen such a spectrum in order to
tent, but also due to the fact that we had been waiting for its
make it make it possible for everyone to notice that sometimes
publication for about 30 years.
the similarity is evident, and sometimes the range of the wave
Only about a third of the gathered images were
number may be higher. There wasn’t one key for selection for
published in the ATLAS. What key did you use to select
all of them. It was really important to me that I show the images
them?
of all resins that I have examined, from as many different places
Infrared spectra of succinite
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93
as possible. In the case of succynite I have shown the images from each place of its occurrence: Sambian, Bitterfeld, and Ukrainian, as well as younger deposits in the south of Poland. In this way, the reader has an opportunity not only to see the
PERSONALITY
image, but also to get familiar with the dispersion of the resins in nature. Generally, the distinction includes: fossil resin that have been given their own mineralogical names’ fossil resins that are referred to according to the geographical names; subfossil resins, “young amber”, contemporary resins; fossil and sub-fossil modified resins; amber imitations from the collection of the Amber Department of the Earth Museum by the
I have a rule: THE WORK MUST BE CORRECT AND UP-TO-DATE as much as possible for the author (“maximally scientific”), and THE TEXT
Academy of Sciences in Warsaw. Although the images are likely not to be comprehensible for the majority of readers, the texts will surely be
MUST BE MAXIMALLY COMPREHENSIBLE
clear.
not only for scientific experts from different fields, but also for a lay person too
I have a rule: the work must be correct and up-to-date as much as possible for the author (“maximally scientific”), and the text must be maximally comprehensible not only for scientific experts from different fields, but also for a lay person too. Especially taking into account the fact that the ATLAS is only one step forward, there is a need for further research and publications. Although I have not been able to identify some of the images, I decided to publish them – in a hope that somebody else might. ATLAS is not aimed only at scientists. What benefits can it bring to amber lovers? Obviously, there is an indirect benefit for them – the world is progressing towards gaining money by all means. The people who want to buy jewellery want to be sure that they won’t be cheated – to put it simply, they require a certificate. First of all, they can require a photograph of the work offered, currently the certificate without IR imaging has less and less value on the market. I hope that at least the importance of IR imaging in Poland will become recognisable not only for the experts, but also for the amber lovers. It will be a pleasure for me to know that the readers of the ATLAS have made another step in the field of amber expertise. Barbara Kosmowska-Ceranowicz, PhD, Professor, with habilitation is a geologist who works at the Earth Museum by the Polish Academy of Sciences in Warsaw. She has been the initiator of many exhibitions, held in Poland and abroad, devoted to amber and its role in nature, culture and art. She is also an author of over 200 scientific and popular-scientific works (she was awarded the Gold Rose prize in 2012 for “Amber in Poland and in The World” for the best popular-scientific book in the publishing season 2011/2012). In 2015 she was granted a Decoration of Honour “Meritorious for Polish Culture” granted by the Ministry of Education.
www.balticjewellerynews.com
94
“ATLAS.
IR Imaging of World Fossils.
shows to the amber lovers, as well as reminding the current,
Characteristics of Their Holotypes”
especially the younger, analysts how the analysing technol-
is a unique publication on the international scale. It consists of
ogy changes. And it happens regardless of the technologi-
two bilingual (Polish and English) volumes. The first one, “Atlas
cal progress, as at the end of each analysis there is a person,
of the Infrared Imaging of Fossil, Sub-fossil Resins and Some
whose knowledge and skills allow for the reliable estimate
Amber Imitations” is a unique collation, comprising a great deal
of the result.
of spectral data concerning world fossils – the result of many
The universal value of the ATLAS is certainly noteworthy.
years of Professor Kosmowska-Ceranowicz’s work (affiliated
It is a huge benefit for this part of society that is academically
with the Polish Academy of Sciences, The Earth Museum in
connected to, or is planning to be connected to, amber. The
Warsaw). The second volume consists of “Mineralogical Names
ATLAS is also a door to an extraordinary world, which Professor
of Fossil and Sub-fossil Resins and Fossil-related Substances”
Kosmowska-Ceranowicz opens to all amber lovers, by sharing
by Professor Vávra (Austria). It is a summary that gives hope
not only her knowledge, but also her passion which is visible
that it will finally be possible to instil the habit of naming res-
in each word of the extensive commentary. It is impossible
ins, which would facilitate understanding when people speak
not make use of it.
the same language. Both parts of the publication contain a
Here, at the end I would like to cite the words of one of the first readers of the ATLAS, Dariusz Wysiecki (M.Sc.), who
rich and up-to-date bibliography. Let us focus on the first part, though. The ATLAS contains
had a chance to register some of the imaginings for Professor
about 344 images in mid-infrared spectrum, which together
Kosmowska-Ceranowicz: “Personally, as someone who has
with the pictures of the specimens show marvellously the
been an amber lover since my childhood, but also an analyst
breadth and variety of fossils in the world, as well as charac-
who works with the latest analytical equipment on a daily basis,
terising selected Baltic amber imitations. However, that does
I have been so greatly impressed with this monograph that
not mean that it is only a collection of images. They are well-
I felt as if I had entered an art gallery which took my breath
documented data, which means that they are reliable, and for
away. It cannot be compared to anything else, as you cannot
an analyst – invaluable. However, the ATLAS certainly cannot
compare masterpieces”.
be paralleled with electronic user databases of images that
Professor Kosmowska-Ceranowicz, I would to express my
have already been created and where the spectral data are
most sincere congratulations on the publication of the long
compared by using appropriate mathematical algorithms.
awaited ATLAS and thank you – I am sure that not only on my
Here, in the ATLAS, each image has a number and includes a
behalf – for such a valuable position for all of us.
description of the resin, its origin and age, which is a kind of unique way of telling its story, taking into account the history of the material obtained for research. The ATLAS also clearly
www.balticjewellerynews.com
95
PERSONALITY
Ewa WAGNER-WYSIECKA, Ph.D., D.Sc., chemist - assistant professor at Faculty of Chemistry of the Gdańsk University of Technology. Amber expert of International Amber Association with more than 10 years of experience in spectroscopic studies of fossil, subfossil resins and their imitations.
This year the following exhibitors in the exhibition AMBER TRIP
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CARTOON
in March 2016 – August 2016 XIII International Baltic Jewellery Show Amber Trip Date: 9–12 March, 2016 Location: Vilnius, Lithuania www.ambertrip.com info@ambertrip.com
14th International Gold & Jewelry Exhibition 2016 Date: 25–30 April, 2016 Location: Mishref, Kuwait www.kif.net info@kif.net
International Jewelry & Watch Show Abu Dhabi (JWS) Date: 3– 7 May, 2016 Location: Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates www.jws.ae Mohamad.mehieddine@reedexpo.ae
Jewelry Fair Korea Date: 21–24 April, 2016 Location: Seoul, Korea www.jewelfair.com jewelfair@kita.net
Amberif, International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Date: 16–19 March, 2016 Venue: Exhibition Center Gdansk, Gdansk, Poland www.amberif.amberexpo.pl amberif@mtgsa.com.pl ewa.rachon@mtgsa.com.pl Istanbul Jewelry Show March Date: 10–13 March, 2016 Venue: CNR Expo Center, Istambul, Turkey www.istanbuljewelryshow.com inquiries@rotaforte.com BASELWORLD 2016 Date: 17–24 March, 2016 Location: Basel, Switzerland www.baselworld.com visitor@baselworld.com Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe Date: 19–22 March, 2016 Locationa: Messe Freiburg, Freiburg, Germany www.JGF–Europe.com salesjgf-hk@ubm.com Oroarezzo Date: 18–21 April, 2016 Location: Arezzo, Italy www.oroarezzo.it oroarezzo@oroarezzo.it Aru-2016, 26 International Jewellery Fair Date: 20–23, March 2016 Location: Almaty, Kazakhstan www.kazexpo.kz kazexpo@kazexpo.kz
40 th Mideast Watch & Jewellery Show 2016 Date: 5 March – 9 April, 2016 Location: Sharjah, United Arab Emirates www.mideastjewellery.com info@expo-centre.ae IJK –20 th International Jewellery Kobe 2016 Date: 11–13 May, 2016 Location: Tokyo, Japan www.ijk-fair.jp ijk-eng@reedexpo.co.jp Jewellery Expo Ukraine 2016 Date: 10–12 February, 2016 Location: Kiev, Ukraine www.kmkya.kiev.ua info@kmkya.kiev.ua G.L.D.A. Las Vegas Gem & Jewelry Show Date: 30–02 May, 2016 Location: Las Vegas, USA www.glda.com info@glda.com New Russian Style Date: 25–29 May, 2016 Location: Moscow, Russia www.eng.rjexpert.ru inter@jnwex.com JCK Las Vegas Date: 3–6 June, 2016 Venue: Las Vegas, USA www.jckonline.com inquiry@jck.reedexpo.com
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JUBINALE 2016 Date: 2–4 June, 2016 Venue: Krakow, Poland www.jubinale.com info@jubinale.com Asia Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair-September Date: 2–5 March, 2016 Venue: HKCEC, Hong Kong www.asiafja.com salesafj@cmpasia.com September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Date: 13–17 September, 2016 www.Jewellerynetasia.com salesjwf@cmpasia.com METS exhibition Date: 15–17 November, 2016 www.mets.hk/en/index.php exhibition@mets.hk Jovella 2016 Date: 5–6 July, 2016 Venue: Tel Aviv, Israel www.stier.co.il/Jovella/index_en.asp expo@stier.co.il India International Jewellery Show Date: 4–8 August, 2016 Venue: Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, India www.iijs.org info@gjepcindia.com Norwegian Gold & Ur Date: 1–4 September, 2016 Venue: Lillestrøm Exhibition's, Norway www.gull-og-ur-messe.no info@gull-og-ur-messe.no Japan Jewellery Fair (JJF) Date: 1–3 September, 2016 Venue: Tokyo, Japan www.japanjewelleryfair.com info@japanjewelleryfair.com AMBERMART Date: 25–27 August, 2016 Venue: Gdansk, Poland www.ambermart.amberexpo.pl ewa.rachon@mtgsa.com.pl
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Heimerle + Meule offers all around precious metals: refining, semi-finished products, (profile) ring blanks, (profile) bangle blanks, electroplating machinery and equipment, electroplating chemicals and Colorit速.
Heimerle + Meule GmbH Gold and silver refinery since 1845 Dennigstrasse 16 | 75179 Pforzheim | GERMANY T +49.7231.940 0 | F +49.7231.940 2199 Experts in technique | jewellery | dental
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