Australian Times weekly newspaper | 26 March 2013 by Australian Times

26 March - 1 April 2013 Issue: 456

TRANSYLVANIA tricks Gothic delights and historic sights

MOTHER’S RUIN London’s love affair with gin

Entertainment P8

travel P9

THE EXPAT FACTOR Wabi wonder Scott Hallsworth interview P4

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NEW LOOK LABOR n The Labor frontbench has been extensively reshuffled as Prime Minister Julia Gillard

apologises for the ‘self-indulgent’ and ‘appalling’ mess of last week’s leadership push.

JULIA Gillard has elevated two key supporters to the cabinet, expanded the jobs of three frontbenchers and made four new ministers in the wake of a “self-indulgent” leadership dispute. The prime minister apologised for the debacle – in which Kevin Rudd was urged on Thursday by senior ministers to challenge her, but declined at the last minute – describing it as “appalling”. “My political party, the Labor party that I love dearly, was self-indulgent. Our eyes were on ourselves rather than … being focused on the nation,” she told reporters in Canberra on Monday. “It was an unseemly display, but out of that has come clarity.” Labor has been marked down over its disunity, with the government’s primary vote dropping two points to 33 per cent in the latest Essential poll published on Monday. The two biggest winners of the reshuffle were new cabinet ministers Gary Gray, who takes on the mining and energy portfolio, and Jason Clare, who becomes a full member of cabinet and remains justice and home affairs minister. Despite criticism of his previous support for Mr Rudd to return as prime minister, Anthony Albanese’s transport portfolio was expanded to take on regional development and local government – vacated by Simon Crean who was sacked over his aborted campaign for Mr Rudd’s return. Ms Gillard consulted key

TAKING ON TOSCA Aussie flair in Royal Opera House revival | P7 independent MPs over Mr Albanese’s extra jobs and said she was “comfortable” with him remaining in cabinet. “He has been very central to the

life of this government, and I believe he will serve very well and with a very strong sense of loyalty into the future,” she said. Craig Emerson, a staunch

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supporter of Ms Gillard, adds tertiary education, skills, science and

Covent Garden Walkie to close

THE original Walkabout pub in London is set to call last drinks. After quenching the thirst of generations of Australian expats in the capital, the classic Covent Garden Walkie will close its doors permanently on Saturday 30 March. The iconic Aussie watering hole joins a long list of Australian venues in London tipping their Akubras to customers for the last time. The Redback Tavern called time in February last year, followed by the Billabong bar in Wimbledon and the Finchley Road London outlet of the Walkabout chain. There was also disappointment for London’s Antipodean drinkers last month when the flagship Shepherd’s Bush Walkabout was forced to make changes to their Sunday trading hours and conditions of service, following an agreement with Police in the local area. The Covent Garden Walkabout led the charge of Aussie pubs in the UK, opening first as The Outback and then operating under the now world famous Walkabout brand for 18 years. The Aussie sports bar concept quickly caught on amongst the expat community who flock to the various ...continued on p3

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2 | News

26 March - 1 April 2013

The NDIS: A diamond in the political dirt

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Publisher: Bryce Lowry Editor: Alex Ivett Production/Design: Jackie Lampard News Editor: Paul Bleakley Business Editor: Sepi Roshan Contributors: Catherine Burrell, Tim Martin, Georgia Dawes, Phillip Browne, Michelle McCue, Erin Somerville, George Katralis, Lee Crossley, Jacqui Moroney, Will Fitz-gibbon, Chris Arkadieff, Bronwyn Spencer, Daniel

Shillito, Mat Lyons, Nicole Crowley, Alex Bruce-Smith, Sandra Tahmasby, Tyson Yates, Amber Rose, Jennifer Perkin, Josh Reich, Shannon Loves, Charlie Inglefield, Kris Griffiths, AJ ClimpsonStewart, Thomas Jones, Michael McCormick, Alistair Davis, Will Denton, Jennifer Lawton Directors: P Atherton, J Durrant N Durrant, R Phillips and A Laird

Additional content: Who are we? Australian Times is written and compiled by young Australian journalists living in the UK. Contributing on a volunteer basis, they are uniquely placed to reflect the interests, opinions and attitudes of our community. If you would like to join us, contact info@australiantimes.co.uk Address: Unit 7C, Commodore House Battersea Reach, London SW18 1TW Tel: 0845 456 4910 Email: info@australiantimes.co.uk

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many Australians I have recently found my faith in an inherent level of decency in politics sorely tested. Now, with the historic passing of legislation introducing a National Disability Insurance Scheme being virtually ignored in favour of an orgy of leadership speculation, I find little reason to hope it will ever return. THREE years ago I read an article that resonated with me. Not in the sense I would quote whole paragraphs at unsuspecting bystanders, or go to dinner parties and thump my fist on the table imploring fellow guests to share a mutual outrage on the issue (though in retrospect I should have), but enough that subsequent mentions of the subject matter in news or conversation would cause me to recall the article and the sense of injustice and outrage it engendered. The article was called ‘Two Nations: The Case for a National Disability Insurance Scheme’ by Anne Manne, and it featured in The Monthly. It was a powerful introduction for me. The broken system of disability care in Australia is a topic I was, and continue to be, shamefully ignorant on. It painted a picture of an underfunded and fractured system which metered out meager disability dollars to recipients through overworked service providers. Participants would battle for years to get basic help from agencies that may or may not be funded for their particular injury or disability. Even then, they would have to join a long queue once the appropriate provider was identified in an attempt to receive some level of care. Manne told the story of Lillian, who slipped through the cracks of the system. A spinal injury at 31, caused by an accident in a private backyard pool, left her almost completely paralysed but unable to receive compensation through insurance or Workcover. The only care covered was one fortnightly visit by a care worker to change her sheets, and three times a week to help her shower, despite Lillian

suffering from daily incontinence. So “inequitable, underfunded, fragmented, and inefficient” (as labeled by a Productivity Commission inquiry) was this system that the care and support received by a person with disability was as arbitrary as a lottery, with the prize being only a basic level of assistance. However, the article also talked cautiously of hope amongst the disability and carers community. There was of a seed of change – discussion of the idea of a National Disability Insurance Scheme (NDIS) which would provide funding directly to individuals. Crucially, autonomy would be given to participants and their carers to make their own decisions and direct their own care. I remember at the time sharing a similar sense of wary optimism. It was, of course, an optimism bound up with a naive assumption that politicians were genuinely interested in implementing good social policy irrespective of their party alignment. Surely such a scheme would be hailed as an historic achievement and celebrated by the media for the benefits it would bring to thousands of Australians. It was an optimism not yet tainted by the political turmoil of tit-for-tat horse trading of petty insults and a revolving door leadership culture, the media gleefully scrounging through the ashes left from the dirty fires they help ignite. Now it seems almost prophetic that the bill introducing the scheme I have followed with interest for three years passed its final hurdle on the same day the Labor leadership experienced its latest implosion. A historic scheme with the potential to change the lives of 2.2 million Aussies with a disability was all but ignored. Twitter, Facebook and online media was saturated

Your Say

with an orgy of opinions on the non-event that was the #spill while there was a virtual blackout of discussion about any genuine political achievement with bipartisan support, including an equally historic apology to victims of forced adoption. Grubby speculation on the machinations of a leadership ‘challenge’ was the nail in the coffin of the last vestiges of optimism I had about the current culture of Australian political life. A Google search of ‘NDIS’ revealed a total of 12 stories. Twelve. A similar Google search on the words ‘labor leadership’ received an instant 567. This is a scheme which in the most bitter, divided and poisonous political environment we have seen for years still managed to have both sides of politics agreeing to its fundamental necessity. As the Disability Discrimination Commissioner, Graeme Innes of the Australian Human Rights Commission said: “[T]his is the most important reform in the disability sector in our lifetimes.” And what did it receive in response? Characteristically lackluster headlines ranging from the blasé, ‘NDIS bill passes parliament’ or ‘Parliament approves NDIS’, to the patronizing; ‘Macklin gets emotional over laws to make NDIS a reality’. Since when is a non-challenge, non-event with a nothing outcome more newsworthy than a once-in-a-lifetime reform which has the potential to make thousands of lives better and more productive? We, and our politicians, actually did something to be very proud of this week. Thankfully, with this legislation we might care a little more for our fellow Aussies. But, it seems, we couldn’t care less about our own achievement.

but that was more of a travel club although they did have a pub.

introduced in Parliament. Well done all, but we must not be complacent and we must not stop fighting until every person who needs better care and support is able to get just that.

By Alex Ivett

On: One Nation cofounder to sue Tony Abbott for $1.5m

Alastair

How is this possible?

And just as the Victoria Police fraud squad investigation into the AWU ‘slush fund’ scandal is drawing to a close. I wonder if Malcolm Turnbull extended David Ettridge some free legal advice. Melinda

Come on people, THIS could actually be the FIRST DECENT thing Tony Abbott has actually DONE in Politics - don’t let the legality of his actions cloud your judgement! Garry

On: Original Walkabout to close There was a Walkabout in Bayswater that closed in 89

? What’s your view

Jaco

On: The NDIS: A diamond in the political dirt

One of the greatest days of social and economic reform happened for the people of Australia – the NDIS. Disability advocates (past and present), their families and carers are the people I feel most excited for. This is the beginning of what the essence of a real government and parliament does for the betterment of its citizens. Anon

Thanks to every single one of you who contributed in any way to this, must confess to having a cry myself when I heard the bill being

Lesley

I celebrated with a beautiful glass of Tassie sparkling with a special person, knowing smugly what was the REAL news story of the day, last Thursday

Jane

Great points. The NDIS has changed my family’s future, particularly that of my son. It’s a dream come true in a relatively short amount of time, from inception to achievement. For that I will be forever grateful to Julia Gillard and the ALP. Laura

Share your comments on these and more stories online: AustralianTimes.co.uk

News | 3

AustralianTimes.co.uk

Australian Bravery Awards recognise everyday heroes SURROUNDED by rising floodwaters, the mother of six-monthold Grace had two choices – risk death or hand her child to a stranger to be winched up to a helicopter. That stranger was Queensland fireman Brad Hindmarsh. “I called the mother aside and I explained to her that I’m going to have to ask you to let go of your baby,” he told AAP. “I told her that this is the only way I’m going to be able get you and your baby out. “I said, `You need to trust me.’” For his act of courage, Mr Hindmarsh is one of 70 people and 15 groups chosen to receive an Australian Bravery Award on Monday. On the morning of January 11, 2011, Mr Hindmarsh joined a crew

on board a Black Hawk chopper to search flood-devastated Grantham, west of Brisbane, during one of the worst disasters to hit the state. He was exhausted after spending the night fighting torrents and wading through mud, helping dozens of people from their inundated homes. As the helicopter flew across the mass of water that covered the landscape, the crew spotted a man waving desperately from his back porch. Despite having no training, Mr Hindmarsh volunteered to be lowered from the helicopter as it hovered above the man’s home. Inside he found a family of five – six-month-old Grace, her parents and her maternal grandparents. They were scared and up to their knees in water.

Labor’s “L-plate cabinet” ...continued from p1 research to his job as trade minister. And Climate Change, Industry and Innovation Minister Greg Combet’s department will expand, merging with the climate change department, a move which the Greens have criticised as a step backwards. Four new ministers have been appointed: Catherine King (Regional Services), Don Farrell (Science), Sharon Bird (Higher Education) and Jan McLucas (Human Services). The reshuffle also made Andrew Leigh, Matt Thistlethwaite, Michael Danby, Bernie Ripoll, Amanda Rishworth and Shayne Neumann parliamentary secretaries. Opposition Leader Tony Abbott says Ms Gillard will be working with an “L-plate cabinet” in the lead-up to the federal budget in 50 days’ time. “This is quite a challenge for the government, given that the budget will be prepared with some of Labor’s most respected and most competent members on the back bench rather than on the front bench,” he told reporters in Sydney. Mr Abbott noted the new ministry would include the sixth small business minister in less than three years, after Chris Bowen stood down on Friday.

More than half of Labor’s 102-member caucus are or have been parliamentary secretaries or ministers since Labor was elected in 2007. Universities and business groups welcomed the creation of Mr Combet’s mega-department, saying it highlighted links between industry competitiveness and climate policy and put higher education at the heart of boosting jobs and investment. However, Greens leader Christine Milne said having no stand-alone climate change department meant the government was moving closer to the coalition’s environmental policies. Senator Milne was also concerned about Mr Gray, a former executive of the Woodside oil and gas company, taking over resources from Martin Ferguson. Mr Ferguson stood down on Friday after calling on Labor to reclaim the reform legacy of the Hawke and Keating governments. Ms Gillard disagreed with his diagnosis, saying, “We do govern in the Hawke/Keating tradition.” - AAP

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Last drinks called for Covent Garden Walkie ...continued from p1 Walkies looking for new friends, a familiar smile and a taste of home. The team from Covent Garden told Australian Times it is with great sadness they are closing their doors permanently on 30 March. “The closure of this venue is due to a refocusing of the Walkabout brand, as we look to refurbish and improve our other sites, thus giving our customers the best possible experience of Walkabout as the ‘Home of the Awesome Spirit of Australia’,” they said. “We thank all of you for your custom and friendship that you have displayed since we first opened our doors here in Covent Garden.” However, the Covent Garden Walkabout doesn’t intend to leave quietly. They are planning a huge

celebration of their 18 years serving thirsty travellers and locals alike. On Saturday 30 March Walkabout will host an ‘End of the World Closing Party’ and have extended the invite to all of their loyal customers. “We will look to show the rest of the West End (and indeed the World!) exactly what it is that has made this venue so special for nearly two decades, as we tell you to ‘Go Hard or Go Home’ one last time,” said the team from Covent Garden. The Shepherd’s Bush and Temple Walkabouts will now be the focus of the company’s efforts for the famous brand in London. For those interested in attending the final party for a pint or Snakie, register on the guest list by emailing your name and those of your group to coventgarden@walkabout.eu.com.

Mr Hindmarsh gave each of the adults a life jacket in case he wasn’t able to save them in time. He then made an improvised harness for Grace using tape and attached it to himself. “The last thing I wanted to happen was to lose the baby in an attempt to rescue her,” the father of two said. “Then I said to the mother, `Okay, you need to let go now.’ “The look in her eyes as she looked into my eyes was `you look after my baby’.” Mr Hindmarsh delivered Grace, screaming but unhurt, to the helicopter, before being lowered four more times to save the rest of her family. “I don’t think I’m anything special, every firefighter has done exactly what I’ve done and they risk their

lives every day.” Also honoured was a man who saved a young woman from the jaws of a three-metre shark, being awarded the Star of Courage by the GovernorGeneral Quentin Bryce. Queenslander Trevor Burns was snorkeling near Rockingham in Western Australia in October 2010, when he saw Elyse Frankcom being attacked. Mr Burns grabbed the animal’s tail in an attempt to stop the attack, and then dove to rescue Ms Frankcom as the shark released her. “As it’s come up and latched on to her, it did a double bite and started thrashing around. It was immediately below me and I sort of grabbed it,” Mr Burns said. “There’s not much you can do against a shark that size. “Obviously holding on to it and

whilst she was being bitten, Elyse turned and punched it, so the combination of the two of us fighting back obviously gave it a bad taste.” Governor-General Quentin Bryce says recipients of the Australian Bravery Decorations demonstrated the most noble human trait – to put another life ahead of their own. She says many of the awards went to those who demonstrated courage and determination during the Queensland floods in December 2010 and 2011. “The strength of human nature shone through the chaos and tragedy,” she told AAP. - AAP

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4 | Exclusive Interview From the editor’s desk > alex Ivett

Regular readers of Australian Times will already be aware of my propensity to wax lyrical on Australian coffee shops in London. It’s a topic dear to my heart, for a number of reasons. One, a strong belief the Aussie café culture is second to none, particularly when you’re homesick and looking for a slice of home. Second, that there is nothing better in this world than a perfectly poached egg on wholegrain artesian bread with an artfully decorated cappuccino to follow (yes, I am aware that sentence just read there is nothing better than pretention with a side of pretentiousness). And third, my first ever published piece was actually a diatribe on my inability to find a cup of coffee in London, so I sincerely thank the food and beverage industry of London for giving me my first break. In general, there is much to be said about the strong Australian influence in the dining and drinking spheres of London. Australians are everywhere in this industry, pouring our pints, mixing our cocktails, influencing our choice of wine, brewing our coffee and serving up innovative and mouth-watering dishes at top restaurants across town. They’re behind the bar, in front of house, behind the scenes or breaking through barriers at the forefront of the foodie movement. In particular, the prevalence of great Australian chefs in London and the UK has been often noted. Perth boy Shane Osborn headed up the two Michelinstarred Pied a Terre before heading to Hong Kong. Many column inches have similarly been devoted to Brett Graham over at The Ledbury, who has earned it two Michelin stars during his tenure. Another Michelin winner – Skye Gyngell – has been recognised for her exciting work at Petersham Nurseries in Richmond. Her behind-the-scenes influence was also felt in her work as food editor for Vogue. A veritable smorgasbord of Australian chefs exists in London, across all types of cuisines, in all types of restaurants. Quietly chopping, slicing, combining, flavouring, plating up and sending out incredible dishes to the hungry masses, contributing to the amazing variety of foods which make London such an exciting and diverse culinary location. One of these chefs, Scott Hallsworth, has worked his way through the ranks during his time in London. During his last stint he achieved the coveted status of Head Chef at Nobu, leading the way in new wave Japanese cooking. He has now taken that passion and inventiveness for unique Japanese food and opened his own restaurant – Wabi. With one in Holborn and one in Horsham, West Sussex, he is an obvious example of the unique success Australians can achieve in the kitchens of London.

26 March - 1 April 2013

the Expat factor

Extraordinary Aussies in the UK

I first moved to the UK in 2001, because I wanted to gain more experience in the notoriously ‘bad-ass’ kitchens of London. I don’t think I had a plan about how long I originally wanted to come here for. Back then I did things in yearly blocks, so I wouldn’t have been looking much further ahead than that.

as well. We’re hatching a plan to develop further Wabi restaurants, most likely outside of the UK.

I ended up staying for six years. It was a challenge to begin with. When I first moved here I was employed at a much more junior level. The long hours, and sometimes the long commute home, was the hardest part. I grew into my first Head Chef role here in the UK – at Nobu London – so there were no pre-conceptions to deal with.

I feel like there are much more serious and career driven young Australians here now. Previously I felt it was more about teaming up with other Aussies to have drinking contests at the Walkabout. I think Australians come to the UK to have new life and career experiences. It’s also a great hub to travel from, and very affordable.

“I moved here to gain more experience in the notoriously ‘bad-ass’ kitchens of London”

London is one of the most amazing places on earth. I’ve been here almost ten years and I’m still discovering new things. I get a huge buzz out of its history and diversity. I’d be lying though if I said I didn’t miss the Australian weather, and obviously my family. The weather here is more relentless than I expected – long cold winters, and often cold summers too. It took a bit of getting used to.

We achieved number seven and number 12 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurant list during that time, and I found myself cooking for all sorts of celebrities. It was a huge buzz and a fantastic experience. I moved back to Australia to open Nobu in Melbourne. After a few years I returned to London, and I’ve been here now for almost three years.

“It’s a tough market, but with passion, hard work and a sense of humour, being a chef really is the best job in the world” The biggest highlight of my time in London has to be opening Wabi London. We first opened Wabi in Horsham, West Sussex, and this has been followed by Wabi in Holborn, London. It is the dream of every chef to have their own restaurant and to have complete control over the direction and creativity of the

“There are much more serious and career driven young Australians here now”

SCOTT HALLSWORTH WABI EXECUTIVE CHEF & CO-FOUNDER

menus from produce to plate. It’s a tough market, but with passion, hard work and a sense of humour, it really is the best job in the world.

country, from Nama Yasai - our organic Japanese veg and salad supplier, through to independent fisherman in Bristol.

The produce in the UK is far more diverse than in Australia. I finally have the chance to work with ingredients that I could only read about in foreign cookbooks back home. At Wabi we use a broad variety of ingredients. I work with some of the finest suppliers in the

I think a benefit to pursuing a career as a chef in London is the exposure you receive is on a truly global level. The environment here has taught me to be far more open-minded, competitive and accommodating. There are great networking opportunities available

Keep calm and keep fit Edinburgh Expat > Tyson Yates

It requires little determination to bring one’s self to frolic in the sunshine. Consider this statement in the context of Australia and suddenly our reputation as a sporting nation becomes more a matter of logic rather than a testament to our power of will. We spend a lot of time outdoors, because we can. Now, how about frolicking in the

wind and the cold? That is something Disney films do little to depict. How often do you wake up to minus degree temperatures, look outside and see horizontal rain pelting at your window before thinking to yourself ‘Wonderful. I’ll give my friends a call to see if they’re up for a kick about the park?’ My guess is almost never. However, if you want to live the outdoor lifestyle in Edinburgh you don’t have much of a choice. If I seem somewhat biased in explaining all this, it’s because I am actively ignoring statistics that point to Australia as one of the world’s most

obese nations. I’m a journalist, not a scientist. In hindsight, keeping fit for me was a much easier task at home than in Edinburgh. Here, just prying yourself from the warmth of your bed in the wee hours of the morning uses more energy than a five day cricket Test match. Though to be fair, making toast uses more energy than a five day cricket Test match. For nine months of the year in Edinburgh you don’t spring out of bed so much as you clamber towards the shower in a desperate attempt to stay warm. Any thoughts of facing the

outdoors for an early morning jog are quickly subdued by the prospect of a hot coffee and extended Facebook time. I compare this to living in Australia when kicking off my sheets at 6am and heading to the town pool to do some laps was more about escaping the heat rather than keeping fit. Jogging too, I’ve been told, could be enjoyed with consistency when you were sure that the day would be cloudless, just as it was yesterday and the day before that. If I again seem somewhat liberal with this description, it’s because I am actively ignoring the fact that last summer was one of the wettest on record in my home region. Journalist; not a meteorologist. While we are highlighting things that I am not, let’s go ahead and add

“The weather here is more relentless than I expected” My typical weekend involves spending time with my wife and three kids back down in Horsham. Horsham is a great escape from London, and I’m always glad to be back down there at the end of the week. We do get to get away for the odd weekend too. I’ve enjoyed all the experiences I’ve had in the UK. In hindsight they have taught me valuable life lessons. I would recommend to any Australian moving to London to get out and mix with the local communities, and avoid subscribing to the Australian hang-outs or pockets – you can do that when or if you ever get back home. Make the most of this incredible experience every day. Interview by Alex Ivett disciplined to that list. When it comes to keeping active in Edinburgh, the harsh weather becomes useful for separating fitness fanatics from the posers. As a poser, I find that it doesn’t take much to convince me to stay indoors (either; “it’s too cold” or “oh wow, this pen clicks”). As an Aussie, it is going to take some time to readjust my system into believing that the day isn’t a write-off at the slightest sign of rain. And as for right now? Well, I promised myself that once I finished writing this column I would begin my latest fitness regime by going for a run. Yep, as soon as I finish this column. Just got to finish this column. Almost done. Just a few more words. Any minute now. Oh, who am I kidding?

UK Life | 5

AustralianTimes.co.uk

Practicing politeness

Londoners have been deemed ‘unfriendly’ by a recent survey. Is it their unfailing politeness holding them back? Honeymooning Nomad Jacqui Moroney

One of the world’s largest travel sites, TripAdvisor, recently revealed the results of its City Survey - an in-depth look into 40 key tourist cities around the world. More than 75,000 locals and travellers responded to a survey that focused on ten categories, including friendliness of locals, cleanliness of streets, public transport, value for money, friendliness of taxi drivers and shopping. While Tokyo, Singapore, Zurich, Bangkok, Lisbon and Budapest were listed at least three times each in the top three performers of each category, London – the home of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations, Olympics and Paralympics in 2012 – reached the top 10 in only two categories; Best Taxi Services (5th place) and Best for Shopping (4th place). According to the survey, London also left much to be desired when it came to Friendliest Locals, receiving 39th place on the list of 40. As a new resident or London and a confessed Anglophile (a person who is fond of ‘traditional’ English culture and a lover

of everything British), I feel that it is my duty to let people know that this cannot be the case. Surely the 75,000 people surveyed have it all wrong. Allow me tell you why. English etiquette and politeness is unlike any other that I have witnessed before. It is so extreme that their need to exercise great self-restraint and display duteous politeness can sometimes be confused by other cultures as unemotional or rude. Besides always displaying a “stiff upper lip” (probably why they don’t smile in public very often), the one thing that epitomises the English above all else is their etiquette and the pride they have in their manners. Many foreigners come to London for travel, to experience the culture or to work, but no one arrives expecting the phenomenon of the English queue, the unspoken rule that you cannot speak to others on the Tube, and the biggest topic of all conversations – the weather. Another practice that we found amusing last summer was when the sun came out. At the first sign of sun English people strip off jackets and socks, roll up the pants and the sleeves and find a piece of grass, a wall or a bench to sit and bathe in the glow of the rarely seen sun.

Sunbathing seems to be a pastime that comes a close second to drinking tea, usually in the late morning, early afternoon or both, and sometimes served with scones and cucumber sandwiches. But no matter what the season or time of the day, the English will always mind their Ps and Qs, politely ignore someone acting strangely in public and go out of their way to open doors for women. While some might think it normal, English people would never dream of talking to a random person in the street, or tell someone they had green spinach in their teeth, for this would make others uncomfortable. Have travellers confused this with being artificial and unfriendly? Are Londoners too polite to be considered friendly? Travellers to London, if you are trying to make a friend in London, my recommendation to you is to be amused at their persevering politeness and simply start a conversation about the weather, nothing gets English folk more excited than talking about the unrelenting rain or unseasonal sunshine.

The sisterhood of the travelling fat pants Fit Aussie

Pandering to the posh SUBCULTURE SLEUTH > PAUL BLEAKLEY

For the most part I find Londoners really easy people to talk to. They are highly experienced in the art of pub banter, they pride themselves on the ability to utter crude witticisms and they are incredibly free with certain four-letter words. In essence, they are my kind of people. However, there is one subculture within London society that has the ability to irritate and aggravate without fail: posh boys. There is one particular type of posh boy that I cannot handle. They are the type that treats Australians and New Zealanders as though we are cavemen with little to no knowledge of history and culture. You can tell by the way that they lower their voices and speak slowly when explaining something to you. “We went to the Tate Modern. Have you heard of the Tate Modern? It is a museum. Have you heard of a museum? It is where they keep art.” Um, yeah mate. Thanks for that, I would have been struggling to figure out what all the things hanging on the wall were otherwise. I was having a drink with a posh boy recently who had recently been

dating a good friend of mine. We had just come from a football match at Millwall and were an appropriate level of tipsy and jovial. We were until Captain Buzzkill came to meet us, that is. There were a number of typically pompous statements made that night, far too many to mention in print. The critical moment came as we stared across the river at the stunning image of St Paul’s Cathedral and the Monument. Someone asked when the Great Fire of London was, to which I responded with the correct answer of 1666. “No, no. I work near Monument, it was in the 1800s… Maybe 1880? Perhaps you’re thinking of the invasion in 1066?” I assured him that I was not and that the Great Fire occurred in 1666 during the reign of Charles II, becoming increasingly frustrated as this allegedly well-educated City trader stubbornly refused to believe that he may in fact be wrong. That is the thing with posh boys though: they have an exasperating tendency not to admit defeat with grace, especially to “convict stock”. I may not have gone to Eton or have a swanky job managing intangible commodities. But at least I know that the Great Fire of London happened in 1666. It’s a small comfort, but a very satisfying one.

Aussies: Save Big on Expat Car Insurance!

> Michael McCormick

A change in your location need not result in an expanding of your waistline, although there is a tendency for one to lead to the other. Upon returning from a stint overseas, many of my worldly friends are noticeably more cuddly (for lack of a nicer word) than before they left. For this reason I decided that, upon landing in London, I would immediately commence an investigation to seek out possible causes for this phenomenon that I have aptly named - ‘the sisterhood of the traveling fat pants’. It’s taken several weeks and a few greasy kebabs to establish some concrete evidence on the matter, but I am proud to say that I have officially cracked the chubby code. And my ground breaking findings that will revolutionise the field of travel weight gain science can be summarised in six words. Beer, beer and more bloody beer. More precisely, I believe that the increased consumption of alcohol of traveling Australians is a major contributing factor to the increased caboose circumference of said population. I know what you’re thinking and I’ll write it so you don’t have to sarcastically groan at your iPhone screen, or scare off potential new traveling companions at the pub. “Well, duh!” Now the obvious has been stated, I can move on to sharing some tips on how to continue to indulge your liquid courage cravings, whilst also preventing the inevitable bar fight caused by the button on your jeans bursting off under the pressure of your growing gut and hitting the muscle bound German named Hans across the bar. First and foremost, get some form of

• Worldwide Liability Protection • Accident Forgiveness • Fast Claim Processing • Multi-policy Discounts • 65 Years of Experience

exercise every day and be conscious about what you’re eating and drinking when not out on the town. Again, it may seem obvious but not many heed this simple advice. Alcohol contains a ridiculously huge amount of energy, and beer in particular is one of the most energy dense liquids. Make sure you’re giving your all to burn off that extra energy, pre and post ‘energy loading’ sessions. Furthermore, alcohol binging severely depletes most of the major nutrients that make the body function at its optimal level. What you feed your body should aim to restore that balance. This leads me to my second tip; try to cook most of your meals. This means you will need some sort of cooking equipment. Might I suggest an oven pan or two from one of the pound stores. Chop up some veggies, add some cheap cuts of meat, sprinkle some salt and pepper over the top and in to the oven it goes for about 20-30 minutes.

That’s not a bad feed for roughly two pounds (not including the tray). Most supermarkets will have special deals on meat as well so you can make a few days worth while you’re at it. I’ll only include one more as I don’t want your pint to get warm while you’re reading this. When you’re heading out into the night take only a certain amount of money, say twenty pounds, and leave your debit / credit cards at home. This is more of a money saving tip but all in all if you don’t have the money to buy more drinks then that should be incentive enough to limit your intake (or just buy the cheap beer). Now to get back to my Double Mochalattechino. Michael McCormick is a personal trainer based in London and can be contacted at thefitaussie@gmail. com for sessions or advice.

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6 | Food & Wine

26 March - 1 April 2013

Perfecting prawns chris’s

kitchen

> CHRIS ARKadieff

Salt and pepper prawns always remind me of Australia. This is a recipe I like to indulge in when I have fresh seafood available, as cooking with fresh ingredients always guarantees the best results. The combination of garlic,

coriander, white pepper and fish sauce is a classic Thai street food recipe. The key to this dish is searing the prawns ever so quickly on a hot grill pan to lock in the flavours and caramelise the delicate flesh of the prawns. Cooking this dish should only take 2-3 minutes for each skewer. I like to use metal skewers as they hold up to the heat during the cooking process.

Salt and pepper tiger prawns

What you need

• 18 medium fresh tiger prawns, shelled with tails left on • 1 tsp of fish sauce • Pinch of white sugar • 3 coriander sprigs • Pinch of fine salt • 1 teaspoon ground white pepper • 2 cloves of garlic finely chopped • 2 tsp of freshly chopped ginger

What to do

• Place the peeled prawns in mixing bowl, add the ingredients and toss well covering all the prawns. • Leave the prawns to marinate for around half an hour. Try to avoid marinating the prawns for too long

as the fish sauce will become too overpowering and extremely salty. • Feed the prawns onto the skewer starting at the head of the prawn, through the tail. This will help the prawn to fasten onto the skewer during the cooking process. • Place your griddle pan on a high heat, than reduce to a medium heat after 3 minutes. This technique prepares the griddle pan for fast effective grilling. • Place the skewers on to the griddle and cook for 2 minutes on each side. The prawns are ready once the bright golden crust is cooked on both sides. • Serve the skewers immediately with a wedge of fresh lime and coriander leaves.

Coffee Cult visits Lantana Café in Fitzrovia

By Alex Ivett

Springtime. Trees gently sprouting new life, birds gleefully emerging from their nest to herald the advent of warmer weather. The days become longer, and people happier as they break their winter hibernation, shed their coats and greet the city with new energy and enthusiasm. Right? RIGHT? Well, that’s how it usually goes in Australia…. With spring now officially upon us in London, Coffee Cult had in mind a similar transition for the column. Mornings spend pouring over newspapers and extra hot cappuccinos in the hidden corners of warm and cosy cafes would give way to long laughing brunches sitting in dappled sunlight on wooden benches inconveniently arranged on the city’s pavements. A bowl of granola with fresh spring fruits would complement the occasion as we gazed in wonder at that mysterious bright shiny orb in the sky, and burnt our skin a healthy tinge of red. A location was picked, a Saturday morning set aside. That is, until we woke up to a text from Australia. ‘Unusual UK weather has made the Aussie news’. Excuse me, sorry, whhaaat? It was snowing. Snowing. In spring. And as the glittery white dust fell, stifling the valiant efforts of the grass to poke gamely from the ground, so too did it extinguish the last remaining sense of hope I had of ever being warm again. There was only one thing to do, and that was return to bed. Where I remained until Monday morning and awoke with the sudden realization there was not only no Coffee Cult

Image by Lantana

in the spring sunshine, there was no Coffee Cult at all.

The Craic A Monday morning pre-work breakfast is an entirely different endeavor to a long weekend brunch. It requires an immediate and much needed injection of caffeine shortly after arrival and a quality breakfast to start the week off on the right foot. Down a laneway off Goodge Street, Lantana does a bustling trade on the weekday mornings. A long procession of suited, or otherwise attired, office types keen to get their hit in before disappearing into the hidden warrens of Fitzrovia’s laneways. Lantana ‘In’ is packed, a queue

already forming almost out the door. Or it would go out the door if it wasn’t too cold to keep the door open. Lantana ‘Out’ caters for the overflow, doling out takeaways to those who can’t, or won’t, put in the hard yards to get a coveted seat. Coffee Cult manages to stare down enough dawdlers still trying to pretend it’s the weekend, and nabs a seat in the cosy upstairs area.

The Crucials The coffee is spot on. Clearly the work of those who know what they’re doing, and have been doing it for a long time. The breakfasts are equally impressive. Toasted banana bread with raspberry coulis is incredibly tempting, as is the poached eggs and big pile of mushrooms whisked past my nose as I hungrily take up residence by the door waiting for my time in the metaphorical sun. In the end, I can’t go past starting the week with a stack of perfectly cooked corn fritters. It comes with roasted tomatoes and a delicious tangy avocado lime salsa, unusually but surprisingly well balanced with a dollop of crème fraiche.

The Connection Image by Lantana

It can’t get more Aussie than being named after an iconic Australian plant. Well, actually a flowering weed that won’t let our sunburnt country out of its hardy clutches, but who’s quibbling. Lantana is owned by Australians, named in ode of something quintessentially Aussie, and even has Vegemite on the menu. Coffee Cult thinks it fulfills the credentials.

The Conclusion Delicious breakfasts, satisfying portions, expertly presented and efficiently delivered. With quality coffee to precede, and follow (it is a Monday after all), Lantana is an excellent way to start the week. With a warm friendly interior, it might even help you for a moment forget the damp chill outside, and whisk you away to an Australian spring. You know, the kind with sun. Image by Lantana

Lantana Cafe 13 Charlotte St, London W1T 1SN

Entertainment | 7

AustralianTimes.co.uk

Tosca

Royal Opera House

REVIEW | Australians feature behind the scenes and on stage in this dramatic production of an opera classic.

By Will Fitz-gibbon MELBOURNE-born opera director Andrew Sinclair is behind the current production of Tosca, a dramatic tale of love and murder in Italy on stage at the Royal Opera House (ROH). Sinclair, staff director at the ROH, has directed opera productions across Australia and in major theatres from New York to Moscow and everywhere in between. In various interviews, Sinclair makes it clear his philosophy to opera directing is that directors exist to serve the music, not vice-versa. In this year’s Tosca, the popular opera by Giacomo Puccini, Sinclair revives the production by British director Jonathan Kent. Kent’s 2006 operatic staging is powerful and intense: daunting statutes of saints, angel wings and religious paraphernalia dominate the stage, crowding out the singers and creating a climate of claustrophobia. Tosca’s Eternal City of the early 19th century was even more unstable than post-election Rome in 2013. Against the backdrop of years of war and strife, Tosca and her lover Cavaradossi, fight against a licentious and cruel police chief, Scarpia. Scarpia wants Tosca for himself and will destroy Cavaradossi to do it. Fortunately for the dramatic arc of the opera, Scarpia succeeds; all main characters are dead by the final curtain. Act I takes a little to get going and it is not until

the real villainy of Scarpia in Act II emerges that the musical and theatrical performances become truly convincing. Act II, set in one darkly woodpanelled room of the police chief’s palace, is the dramatic highlight of the evening. It provided a perfect mix of tender singing, frenetic pacing and murderous stabbing, culminating with Tosca leaning into Scarpia’s abdomen with a kitchen knife. While Sinclair pulls the strings behind the scenes, on stage is another Australian - tenor Hubert Francis. A former Young Artist at the Royal Opera House, Francis plays Spoletta, a wiry goon doing the bloody bidding of the opera’s villain, Scarpia. With at least one knockout aria in each act, Tosca always attracts crowds and applause. The South African soprano Amanda Echalaz is excellent, especially as she listens powerlessly to the torture of her lover, Cavaradossi, and then fends off Scarpia’s advances. But German baritone Michael Volle as Scarpia was the strongest performer of the night, showing again how the villains get all the fun. Tosca continues until 20 July. Visit www.roh.org.uk for more details.

Australia’s own ‘Wizard of Oz’

REVIEW | Tommy Emmanuel with Martin Taylor, ‘The Colonel & The Governor’ tour, Shepherd’s Bush Empire jazz-influenced numbers.

By Kris Griffiths On a wintry, drizzly night in West London, a ray of light and warmth was provided by two acoustic veterans at the top of their game: the self-styled ‘guitar Wizard of Oz’ Tommy Emmanuel and his English sparring partner Martin Taylor. This was the London date of their UK tour, ‘The Colonel & The Governor’, promoting their new album of the same name and drawing sell-out crowds from Belfast to Bristol. After being cheered onto the stage by all three packed tiers the duo commenced a journey through the

album’s toe-tapping standout tracks for the first hour with effortless ease, interspersed with humorous anecdotes about their guitars, London and its miserable weather. Taking turns in playing rhythm and lead, Tommy was (as ever) visibly enjoying himself – occasionally meeting the audience’s whoopings with his own – while sidekick Taylor played off him with calm efficiency. After the interval the pair performed some of their solo work individually: Tommy mesmerising the crowd with raucous standards including his famous Beatles medley, while Taylor struck a gentler note with his more

Though the beginning of the set was marred by feedback problems, the finale was triumphant: Taylor invoking the West Indies with his calypso composition Down at Cocomo’s, punctuated by one of Tommy’s idiosyncratic percussion solos, slapping and thumping his instrument at semi-automatic gun rapidity. An encore of Classical Gas and their infectious album closer concluded the virtuoso masterclass which saw even more punters than usual crowded around the CD merchandise desk in the exit foyer. Another satisfied audience – roughly Tommy’s thousandth since 2010.

8 | Entertainment

What’s On Pam Ann 28-29 March @ Hammersmith Apollo

26 March - 1 April 2013

A mother’s ruin By AJ Climpson-Stewart

‘Mother’s Ruin’, or gin as we more commonly know it, has come a long way since its debaucherous days of the 1700s. The modern sophisticated juniper-based spirit seen in a G&T or a dry martini is a long way removed from William Hogarth’s picture of ‘Gin Lane’ in 1751. This was a time when home-made gin was cheap and rife in London, and had taken the city in its grip - the shoddy home-made spirit often left people blind and even dead. Thankfully laws were passed requiring distillers to buy a £50 licence - a small fortune at the time if they wanted to keep on making the botanical spirit. This shaped the way for what we now know as modern gin, with master distillers forced to enhance the quality of their brew and create their own unique recipe in order to compete. Today, this clear spirit is undergoing a modern renaissance, forming a key ingredient in a vast array of modern cocktails beyond your standard G&T. Desmond Payne, the master gin distiller at Beefeater, makes the production of gin sound all rather simple. “We take pure alcohol and add some water. Then we add juniper, coriander and all the botanicals. We leave it for 24 hours, turn on the heat and what happens is the alcohol vapour goes up the neck of the still and brings with it all the flavours of the botanicals.” Once it has condensed and cooled

Sarah Blasko 11 April @Barbican Centre Chet Faker 21 May @Sebright Arms Xavier Rudd 24 June @Koko Tame Impala 25 June @ Hammersmith Apollo Kate Miller-Heidke 3 July @The Islington Flume 4 July @Heaven Ben Harper & Charlie Musselwhite 16 July @ Shepherd’s Bush Empire Nick Cave and The Bad Seeds 26 - 28 October 2013 @Hammersmith Apollo

For full details... ...and more Aussie gigs go to: AustralianTimes.co.uk/entertainment

See what we are following this week on

Original Gin Cocktail 1798

down, you are left with gin ready to be bottled. Of course, what Desmond skimmed over in a couple of sentences was the long The very first hours spent sourcing all the botanicals recorded cocktail. involved in the recipe. Desmond still adheres strictly to the founder of Beefeaters James Burrow’s recipe of juniper, angelica root, Ingredients angelica seed, coriander seed, liquorice, • 60ml Gin almonds, orris root, and lemon and orange • 10ml Cointreau peel. • 10ml ginger syrup Beefeaters have decided to celebrate this • 3 dashes of recipe, and the history of the spirit, with a Angostura bitters visitors centre at their distillery in London. The distillery, situated in Vauxhall since 1958, will open its doors to allow the public Method to see the processes behind the distilling of Stir thoroughly with gin through a glass ceiling looking directly up cubed ice in a mixing into the stills. The accompanying centre will glass and transfer all provide an insight into London’s industrial contents to an old history and the city’s past relationship with the classic spirit. fashioned tumbler Desmond points out that the picture of the glass or rocks glass. Yeoman Warder, or ‘Beefeater’, adorning each bottle of the gin has become ubiquitously recognised as a symbol of London. The Beefeater Distillery will “We’re really proud of our Beefeater brand open its doors to visitors in and the fact our gin comes from London.” late 2013.

Fringe fever

#spill Ryan Fitzgerald @FitzySA Labor considering using Australian cricket team’s rotation policy. #Spill Craig Reucassel @craigreucassel Whoever turned Simon Crean’s Far Side Calender to April 1 today has a lot to answer for. #spill Kevin Rudd @KevinRuddExPM Stop asking me why I didn’t run okay I haven’t even finished Breaking Bad Andrew Hansen @andrewjhansen Abbott’ll probably compare Labor to a soap opera again. When really they’re like a KardashiansMasterchef-Wrestlemania crosspromo special.

London is a theatre hub but it’s the emerging talent at the fringe that are really doing it for the love of the job. By Sharna Roberts As an audience in London’s smaller theatres, it’s sometimes hard to believe that nobody is getting paid. The fringe concept provides a stage for London based artists to run small scale productions that are out of the mainstream. Fringe theatres include many pub venues across London. Some are referred to as Off West End, particularly if they are located in the West End of London, alongside most of the big commercial theatres. The

Kevin Rudd @_KRuddMP Folks, those 20 MPs in my office are here to talk about Swanny constantly stuffing up our coffee orders. So just chillax okay. #spill _KRudd Peter Taggart @petertaggart Sigh. Are we really doing this in front of Bruce Springsteen? Embarrassing. #spill #Ruddmentum

Image by Adam Trigg

seating capacities range from around 40 to 400. The small theatres can vary, but they all share the common trait of having a cast and crew who are unpaid or minimally paid. But why would anyone work for free? Australian Rachel Smith, 23, volunteers her time to work as the lighting designer on Lazarus Theatre’s Oedipus, a play based on ancient Greek tragedy, telling the tale of the king who marries his mother and kills his father. Rachel works alongside director Ricky Dukes to create the atmosphere on stage. She said being part of fringe theatre allows her to be creative and technical in her roles as both lighting technician and designer. “The lighting is a set element in a way. I’ve worked with Ricky Dukes in the past and most of his plays aren’t set anywhere so lighting helps set the scene. In Oedipus we used a lot of haze and light from behind, a technique I love, which directors are normally reluctant to use because you can’t always see the actor’s face. “Not knowing people in the industry has been my biggest obstacle to finding paid work here. The key to being a lighting designer is building good relationships with directors. Because it’s such a unique profession there is still an element of free work involved, but in Australia it is a lot easier to get a job as a lighting

Image by Adam Trigg Image by Jonathon Ross

technician,” she said. Lighting designers share their ideas with directors. Rachel said she remembers being on the London set of Love Never Dies when the lighting designer she was working with offered his opinion on how the show should end. Andrew Lloyd Webber followed his advice and changed the ending. Rachel works as a children’s party planner during the day and picks up lighting jobs in the evenings, usually at independent theatres such as the Blue Elephant. She said lighting designers can potentially work on up to three shows at a time, as long dates don’t clash. For cast like Rachel, the fringe concept is about love for the job and pays something much more valuable than money in return.

Travel | 9

AustralianTimes.co.uk

Not just for Vampire lovers, GEORGIA DAWES discovers Transylvania is a fascinating region of scenic beauty, gothic architecture and historical delights.

As the fog and the low lying clouds part, a gothic style castle is revealed in the distance, perched on a steep rocky cliff. You gaze across at the imposing structure and wonder, who could be inside. Dracula? Edward Cullen? Count Duckula? Presenting Transylvania. The land of the delicious red liquid (red wine that is), steaks (meaty ones, not wooden Vampire killers) and plenty of fascinating history, scenic beauty and stunning gothic architecture for you to sink your teeth into. Located in Central Romania, Transylvania is largely renowned for its association with Vampires and the horror genre in general. Transylvania willingly markets this connection, claiming Bran Castle, a gothic style Castle in Brasov, Transylvania, as the setting for the home of Bram Stoker’s Dracula. Transylvania is a stereotypically perfect setting for Vampire books and films. Think; gothic architecture, mountainous landscapes and low lying mists in the winter. However, if you aren’t into the whole blood sucking, stake driving thing, Transylvania also boast a host of non-vampire related activities for you to enjoy.

A Braşov base

Braşov is one of the largest and most popular cities in Transylvania and it, along with the surrounding areas, feature unforgettable attractions. Visitors can explore stunning churches, hiking in the nearby mountains, and even bear watching. Braşov’s main landmark is the Black Church, the largest Gothic church between Vienna and Istanbul. Built between 1383 and 1480, its name comes from its appearance after a fire in 1689. It is packed full of history, with statues dating back to when it was first built and some 120 fabulous Turkish rugs hanging from its balconies. The Black Church also features one of the world’s largest pipe organs with 4000-pipes. Even if you are not religious the Black Church is a must visit, even if it is just to top up your holy water (yes - another Vampire reference).

10 | Travel

26 March - 1 April 2013

View from above

For those more interested in natural beauty and the great outdoors then a climb up Mount Tâmpa is a must. For those less interested in walking never fear, there is a cable car all the way to the top. Towering above Braşov from the east, Mount Tâmpa offers stunning views, great hiking trails and even Braşov’s own piece of Hollywood; a huge ‘Hollywood’ style sign reading Braşov in giant letters at the top of the mountain.

Sanctuary now helps over 60 bears enjoying a new life. Watch them climb trees, swim in the pools and forage on the vegetation. These beautiful animals are certainly not camera shy and they know their best angles. Clear your memory cards and be prepared to take lots of flash-less photos.

Polenta paradise

For the benefit of the bears

Also on the ‘must visit’ list is the Liberty Bear Sanctuary. Set up by a Romanian woman after she witnessed the extreme cruelty and illegal exploitation suffered by of one of Romania’s magnificent native animals, Liberty Bear

Finally, after a long day sightseeing I am sure you will be starving. If you love meat and polenta then you are going to love Romanian cuisine. However, in the case that you don’t, or you swiftly get sick of polenta for breakfast, lunch and dinner as I did, perhaps a red wine liquid diet would work best. Romanian red wine is absolutely delicious, very inexpensive and good for you. So whether you are a red wine drinker, a Twilight watcher or a wildlife lover, Transylvania has something for you. Just be sure to eat lots of garlic before you go, just in case.

Travel | 11

AustralianTimes.co.uk

Beyond the

hidden city n

The ancient rock city of Petra is only one highlight of a country crowded with experiences.

By Brett Petzer

TOPDECK 1973

2013

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Inside, however, Maria Haddad – warm, engaging, utterly hip – cajoled us through the preparation of a four-course Jordanian meal, discoursing at speed on her country’s deserved reputation for hospitality and the insider secrets of desert sightseeing. It was when Maria added home-made sumac and pomegranate molasses to a simple table salad that I realised I was going to enjoy myself in Jordan – a profoundly unsnobbish country that nonetheless has much to brag about. The next day, sated and heavy with The Best Shawarma In Jordan (as certified by Maria) we set off into the wide desert in a right-handside-drive mechanised toaster from Avis. We had to open the windows to fit in, which made us minor celebrities on the King’s Highway, a scenic (for once, not a euphemism for ‘pot-holed’) route that runs down the length of the country parallel to the Dead Sea. Ramshackle towns lurch up to the road, pomegranates sweat on tiny juice stands, people throw fresh, good food at you for very little money, and you get so lost that signs with exclamation marks start appearing in Hebrew. But

CEL

Its dense capital, Amman, is not yet a foodie outpost, and if you are seeking ruins, whether Roman, Biblical, Crusader or Ottoman, the region’s archaeological stars – Syria, Turkey, Israel, Iraq – offer denser, grander fare. However, Jordan surprises more by simple abundance than by excellence: for one, there are enough Crusader forts in the vast, still Wadi Rum that you could spend a morning in one by yourself, trying to measure the distance that separates you and your LandRover from when these oases were worth fighting and dying for. And while the cuisine of freewheeling Lebanon reigns supreme across the Middle East, Amman offers some distinct pleasures of its own. Our first night there sets the tone for the entire trip as we bundle ourselves out of a 90km/h-or-die taxi into a quiet suburban street outside of the unprepossessing Beit Sitti (‘Grandma’s House’).

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12 | Travel

26 March - 1 April 2013

eventually, long after dark, we wound into the valley in which the ancient Nabateans set up shop in 312 BCE – the almost recklessly, achingly lost city of Petra. ‘Petra’, as a name, is a lesson in the beauty of the Greek language, because translated, it just means

‘Rock’. And there is quite a bit of rock, as you walk in the cool predawn down the winding, mile-long cleft in the sandstone that leads to the city. This is where you step into a thousand trophy photos, at the moment when a kink in the route reveals, almost coyly. one of the most famous façades in the world – the ‘Treasury’, al Khazneh. We explored Petra all day, and came back at night to see it by the light of hundreds of candles, put there several times a week with considerable effort and gathered up before morning. Petra astounds by several measures – its giant scale, because this was long a flourishing trading city of several thousand – and the emptiness that surrounds it; but also the subtlety by which a rough rockface becomes stamped with fine Hellenic carving – architraves, Corinthian columns,

Bacchus looking rat-faced – and then reverts immediately to raw stone a few metres later. A curious person needs about 2 days for Petra; we had just the one before it was time to hit the non-scenic, straight highway back to the airport. Jordan is small and easy to see, but the desert has spaces to think in and look at, the people are the sort that you will miss slightly, and the food is habit-forming. Buy sumac, buy pomegranate molasses. Because running out of either is a perfectly reasonable pretext to go back to Jordan.

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The annual Running of the Bulls is seven days of madness that form the centrepiece of the San Fermin Festival. From 7 to 14 July tens of thousands of people gather to watch brave participants pit themselves against six steers and six oxen on a race through the streets of Pamplona to the city’s bull ring. At night continue the festivities as a massive, city-wide party fills the streets. Included in Gombo’s Running of the Bulls adventure is camping accommodation, pick-up on arrival, transport to and from the campsite, bull run and gift bag. Transport to and from Pamplona, food and drinks and travel insurance is not included.

Every year, on the last Wednesday of August, the town of Buñol near Valencia turns red with the world’s biggest, messiest, most epic tomato fight. It’s not all just about the one-hour, every man and woman for themselves food fighting frenzy, either. Valencia is a stunning region and the trip gives you the opportunity to appreciate all its breath taking beauty. Included is shared 4* hotel accommodation, bus transfers to the festival, breakfast, city walking tour and gift bag. Transport to and from Valencia, food and drinks and travel insurance is not included. Remember, when you book Running of the Bulls with La Tomatina, La Tomatina is 50% off!

5-8 July £139

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For further information or to book any of these tours go to www. gogombo.com.

Professional Life | 13

AustralianTimes.co.uk

London is not the UK > SEPI ROSHAN

When you first came to the UK, where did you expect to live? Many of us land in Heathrow and head to the usual stomping grounds of Fulham, Clapham or Notting Hill: it could be because we are uncertain of what lies outside of London or because we are initially searching for familiarity – or maybe that is where our friends live. We sometimes do not realise that stepping a few miles outside of London can open up new worlds and professional opportunities. London is a transient city - a financial, business and entertainment hub. Many of us are drawn to its opportunities and bright lights. When we tell our family and friends we are heading to the UK, what most of us mean is that we are heading to London. However, many professionals who decide to settle in the UK have discovered that life outside of London has a lot to offer. I spoke to Gail Gibson, Portfolio Lifesylist, about her move to the UK and how she ended up living in Swindon, 130 km outside of London. Ms Gibson is originally from Perth and moved to the UK in 1996. Ms Gibson was drawn to the West country, having worked and lived there during a previous working holiday in 1994/95. “My husband and I decided to set up a new life around Swindon, in the lovely market town of Highworth, Wiltshire - The Gateway to the Cotswolds,” she said. Ms Gibson lovingly explains that “Wiltshire is a beautiful and magical county, filled with quaint villages and market towns, wonderful open spaces, and friendly people. The Highworth community is very welcoming and as a local business owner, there is a good network of support and opportunities”. What does living outside of London mean for business? Since setting up in 2005, face to face networking has been Ms Gibson’s number one marketing tool of choice to connect, explore opportunities and collaborate. There is ample opportunity to network for business. “Over the last 7 years I have attended various networking events in Wiltshire, Berkshire, Oxfordshire, Gloucestershire, and London.” Ms Gibson points out that “you can be in Oxford in 30 minutes, Bath, Bristol or Gloucester in less than one hour, and Birmingham or

Cardiff in under two hours”. By having a wider reach than just London, Ms Gibson has established an excellent support network of trusted colleagues, clients, suppliers, and friends. So passionate is she about networking and connecting, Ms Gibson has written a book on how to network effectively to build better business relationships. Throughout her 16 years of living in the UK, Ms Gibson has gone against the grain. The closest she came to living in London was Stevenage, Hertfordshire. Living outside of London does not mean being denied of what the capital has to offer. The West country, for example, is very central in location, with train commuter time to London being one hour, and there is excellent access to the M4 and M5 motorways. Ms Gibson says that she has the best of both worlds. She is a regular visitor to the capital to soak up the great atmosphere, history and architecture, and of course people watching. Despite London and all its offerings, Ms Gibson says that “the best reason for living outside of London is the fresh air and open spaces – perfect for inspired thinking!” London does sometimes feel like the centre of the UK. For many of us, we come to the UK to be in the centre of everything. We land in London and travel, yet only venture to the rest of the UK on weekends. Just as all Aussies who come to the UK are unique and diverse, so is the UK. London is a great city and for the moment it is home – but London is by no means the whole of the UK.

Aussie Dollar surges ahead on Cypriot woes By Matthew Cridge RISK aversion came to the fore over the past week with the Cyprus banking crisis consuming the market’s attention. The Australian Dollar continues to be viewed as a safe haven currency, backed as it is by a relatively stable economy, and an alternative to the traditional default safe haven of the US Dollar. “You saw a bit of safe-haven buying last week and, given that our bank ratings are still among the highest in the world, investors are looking favorably on Australia and New Zealand,” said Tim Kelleher of ASB Institutional according to Bloomberg. With the start of a new week, the AUD edged further ahead, cementing gains from the previous week. During the week ending 25 March the British Pound fetched between 1.453 and 1.457 Australian Dollars while the Euro fetched between 1.246 and 1.245 AUD The Australian Dollar closed out the week on the front foot on the back of the Cyprus debacle and better

than expected Chinese manufacturing data. Investors were still following a risk aversion strategy when details of the last minute deal to rescue Cyprus came to light as markets opened on this week. News of the package, which sees heavy losses being born by wealthy depositors while those with savings under €100,000 will be protected, dampened concern across the entire Eurozone. Failure to reach a deal may have forced Cyprus’s exit from the EU and plunged the wider continent deeper into crisis The world’s eyes will remain on the Mediterranean island this week as the bail-out measures take effect. However, ANZ Bank currency strategist Andrew Salter told The Wall Street Journal on Monday that while Cyprus was the big issue for markets on Monday, Aussie attention will focus back to the Reserve Bank

of Australia and the comments about interest rates from its governor Glenn Stevens on Tuesday.

Exchange rates GBP/AUD: 1.457 EUR/AUD: 1.245 USD/AUD: 0.955 10:00 GMT, 25 March 2013

Note: The above exchange rates are based on “interbank” rates. If you want to transfer money to or from Australia then please register/login on our website, or call us on 0808 141 2335 for a live dealing rate. Make use of a Rate Notifier to send you alert when the Australian exchange rate reaches levels you are looking for.

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Sepi Roshan is Business Editor of Australian Times, and Director of Astute Coaching & Development, helping Professionals become fearless presenters and leaders. Find out more at www.astutecd.com.

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14 | Sport

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To launch the upcoming Easter Series matches in London and Copenhagen, AFL Europe and Australian Times are giving away a signed Sherrin game ball from last year’s Western Bulldogs vs Port Adelaide match at the Oval. The ball has been signed by the coaches and captains of both teams on the day - Hamish Hartlett and Shaun Higgins. To grab your tickets to the big Australia vs Europe match in Guildford on 6 April, go to: afleasterseries. eventbrite.co.uk We hope to see you there supporting the future stars of the AFL and our European challengers including the best of the GAA.

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Aussie tag rugby representatives offer support for UK Try Tag Rugby By Phillip Browne Try Tag Rugby CEO, Phillip Browne, made a recent trip down under for the Oztag Australia NSW state cup titles. Whilst in Wollongong he also managed to catch up with some Australian representative players to find out their thoughts on the expansion of tag rugby in London and the UK. James Storer, who represented East Hills at the state titles as well as the Australian Indigenous team at the recent Tag Rugby World Cup, said it was great to see UK teams involved in international competitions. “I was shocked to see how well the Great Britain and Ireland teams fared at last year’s World Cup considering it was their first one,” he said. “Tag rugby is a great sport to play, especially for older or retired rugby players to stay involved and keep fit. The game is only getting better and better as it gets bigger.” Stephen Butler is an Australian Men’s open representative. He commented, “I played Great Britain and Ireland two years ago on our tour to the UK, and again at the World Cup last year, and the standard has definitely improved in a short space of time. GB&I will definitely be a force in the tag rugby world in years to come. “It’s a massive plus for the sport having the UK involved, and it’s only going to get bigger and bigger as you guys love your rugby and your rugby league. I’ll definitely be keen to tour the Ewen McKenzie will break a Super Rugby coaching record on Good Friday but he’s more intent on ticking the one box left unchecked in the Queensland Reds’ history. In 18 seasons of Super Rugby, the Reds have never prevailed against the Highlanders in the deep south of New Zealand. Dunedin’s Carisbrook and icy weather-blown Invercargill have been traditional graveyards for Queensland sides but McKenzie expects his team to rise to the challenge and end the hoodoo in the Highlanders’ new, roofed Forsyth Barr Stadium. “We like little bits of history so we’ll look forward to that,” said the Reds’ director of coaching. “We haven’t won before at Carisbrook but we’re not playing at Carisbrook. “Weather’s always a challenge down there but we’ve got a level-playing field - which sounds a bit corny - but it suits them too.” Although the Highlanders remain the only winless team in the competition, they possess gamebreakers like Aaron Smith, Ma’a Nonu, Hosea Gear and Ben Smith, as well as grizzled All Blacks Brad Thorn, Tony Woodcock and Andrew Hore. They also play an expansive and exciting brand of running rugby that

The Oztag Mixed open’s NSW state cup champions, Macarthur UK again in the future.” Kathryn Collins from the champion Macarthur mixed opens side and current Australian mixed opens representative added, “I toured the UK in 2011 and it was a fantastic experience, one I would definitely recommend to my team mates and friends. “We really noticed the big improvement at the World Cup for the Great Britain and Ireland teams and we hope to continue to see them improve at more upcoming big events in the future. I would really like to tour London again soon.” In other news, Try Tag Rugby’s first

one day tournament of the year in London, the Wasps Tag Rugby festival, will be taking place in Acton on Saturday 6 April. Teams and individuals have until Thursday 28 March to register. The day will consist of plenty of Tag Rugby across three divisions (A grade, intermediate and beginner levels) with a presentation and after party to follow. If you would like to register for the Wasps Tag Rugby Festival or a spring league, go to www.trytagrugby.com or email info@trytagrugby.com for more details.

Reds aim to end the Highlanders hoodoo suits a dry track. “It hasn’t paid off for them so far but their intentions are to play rugby so it makes for a big challenge,” McKenzie said. “They’ve got some striker power their back three are scoring all their points so they’re potent and they like to get the ball wide. “They haven’t been far away so they’ll be frustrated with their circumstance and they’ll be in front of their home crowd so everything will be thrown at us in this game.” Queensland also have doubts over Wallabies three-quarters Digby Ioane (knee) and Ben Tapuai (hand) who have undergone scans, as well as utility back Mike Harris (hand), following knocks in the 23-18 win over the Bulls. Dom Shipperley looms as the most likely starting replacement if either are ruled out while flanker Liam Gill is fit to return from his knee injury. If Ioane and Tapuai are cleared, the Reds will field their strongest team of the season following the successful returns of leaders James Horwill

Queensland Reds Director of Coaching Ewen McKenzie during training in Brisbane (AAP Image/Dan Peled) (hamstring) and Will Genia (knee). Former NSW mentor McKenzie breaks Robbie Deans’ record as the most-capped Super Rugby coach when he guides a side for the 121st match, which comes with a 63 per cent success rate. “It’s an interesting statistic but it’s more a testament to survival than anything,” he said. “I won’t be giving a second thought.” By Jim Morton

Webber goes surfing to rethink future ...continued from p16

treated by the team. Webber said it was very early days in the 2013 season and emotion was still very raw, but some decisions on how the team moved forward needed to be made. For his part, Vettel apologised

profusely, admitting: “I f….d up” but Webber was nonetheless bitter and immediately returned to Queensland to think about his future. “I will be in Australia on my surfboard,” he said. “I think this will be good medicine for me. But there were a lot of things in my mind in the last 15 laps

of the grand prix, to be honest, so whether the medicine is enough, we will see.” The pair have had a tumultuous history. They clashed during the 2010 Turkish Grand Prix and tensions escalating before the British GP in the same year when Vettel damaged a front wing and was given Webber’s spare.

Sport | 15

AustralianTimes.co.uk

Dragons could do deal with Dugan ...continued from p16 drastically intensified. Brisbane wished Norman well in the future in a statement on their website on Monday after the Eels confirmed his signing for three years for close to $1.5 million. But they refused to comment when contacted by AAP on whether his departure would mean they go all out to sign bad boy Dugan as his fullback replacement. Dugan is managed by the same player agent who represented Norman. His father is a massive Dragons fan but insiders say Brisbane appeals to him as a big city, a one-team town with a club which could resurrect his representative career. A sticking point for Brisbane would be if Dugan expects to earn the reported $500,000-a-season he was pulling at the Raiders; the Dragons in a position to drop that kind of money now, the Broncos seemingly unable to unless they could get a heavily

back-ended contract approved by salary cap auditor Ian Schubert. Whichever club lands his signature will have hope the NRL agree to register him, something which could take weeks. And if they do, whether the contract would include any special conditions. Canberra officials provided the NRL with a `Dugan dossier’ last week, which is believed to contain a string of off-field breaches by the 22 year-old, dumped by the club after he posted pictures of himself on Facebook drinking two weeks ago while injured. Because of confidentiality laws, clubs interested in signing Dugan are unlikely to obtain a copy of the Raiders’ dirt dossier. The NRL is currently reviewing Canberra’s report and weighing up whether it would register Dugan should a contract be presented to them. It would need to be satisfied the contract fits under the salary cap and also that the player had had sufficient time to address any issues to prevent

RUGBY LEAGUE ON YOUR DOORSTEP

HOT PROPERTY: Everyone wants a piece of Josh Dugan. (AAP Image/Penny Bradfield) a recurrence in the future. There are a number of options open to the NRL. It could refuse to register the player or register him on a conditional contract. By Wayne Hemming

Players opting for non-European clubs ...continued from p16 feels the emergence of leagues outside Europe as an option for Socceroos aspirants will shape the playing style of the future team. Whereas the big leagues in Europe have long been the ambition of most players, of the 23 in the current squad more than half ply their trade in the Middle East, Asia and our own A-League. The likes of Matt McKay and Ryan McGowan both play in the Chinese Super League while former Perth

Glory defender Dino Djulbic left Chinese club Guizhou Renhe to join Alex Brosque in the UAE. Socceroos tyro Tomas Rogic’s rapid rise earned him a contract with Scottish giants Celtic but his former Central Coast teammate Mathew Ryan continues to prove himself domestically. Ryan is among six A-League players to receive a call up. “It’s become a different path for a lot of players to take,” Schwarzer said. “I think the team in the future is probably going to take on a different direction in the way it plays.

“It will have different traits from different countries around the world.” But while Schwarzer is certain the future Socceroos side won’t play the same way he’s unsure if they’ll be as good. “That’s the big question. Only time will tell,” the 40-year-old Fulham goalkeeper said. “You could argue whether or not playing in Europe is better for development than playing in Asia or playing in other parts of the world but only time will tell.”

this season. Harris took 6-58 and 2-48 in the Bulls’ last-round victory over Western Australia and 4-26 in the one-day final win over Victoria. Bulls physiotherapist Martin Love said Harris had pulled up well but was unlikely to bowl again in a match his side can’t win. “I think he’s proved everything he needs to prove in terms of his fitness for the selectors going forwards,” Love said. “He wasn’t knocking over tailenders either so I think he’s ready

to go.” With Australia’s attack struggling in India, albeit on unfavourable pitches, Harris’s name is sure to be in the mix for the Ashes series beginning in July. The paceman played the last of his 12 Tests, from which he has 47 wickets at 23.63, in April last year in the West Indies. He underwent shoulder surgery last August and, before February, hadn’t played any serious cricket since May last year. In three Shield games in recent weeks he’s racked up a massive 153 overs, including 40 in the first

innings of the final against the Tigers. “When Ryan Harris is bowling at you, whether he’s injured or he’s bowled 60 overs, he’s always at you and he’s always trying to get you out and he’s in the contest,” Tasmanian keeper/batsman Tim Paine said. Harris has said he will try to keep his momentum in the IPL and then, hopefully, with an Australia A tour to England before the Ashes. He is also considering a county stint to adjust to conditions for the crucial series, should he be required. By David Benuik

Sandilands sidelined up to three months in AFL FREMANTLE have received mixed news on star ruckman Aaron Sandilands - he will need hamstring surgery, but should return midway through this AFL season. The three-time All-Australian consulted with surgeon Julian Feller in Melbourne on Monday after aggravating the injury to his left hamstring. The Dockers announced on Monday night that Sandilands will be out of action for eight to 12 weeks. “It’s very disappointing for Aaron and the club but with the appropriate period of recovery and a structured rehabilitation program, it is possible he will be available for selection mid-way through the season,” said Fremantle football manager Chris

Bond. “But at this stage we will have to wait until after his surgery and the recovery phase before we can be more specific about when Aaron will be available for selection.” Sandilands originally tore the muscle during the pre-season and was expected to return in round two. But he aggravated the injury last week and that forced the Melbourne visit. The other silver lining to this cloud for Fremantle is that backup ruckman Jonathon Griffin played well against West Coast star Dean Cox in Saturday’s round-one win over the Eagles. Griffin also stood up for the Dockers last year when Sandilands was injured.

oncos

v CATALAN DRAGONS Thursday March 28th, kick-off 8:00pm at the Twickenham Stoop, TW2 7SX londonbroncosrl.com

By Angela Habashy

Superb return to form for Harris ...continued from p16

heBr #Backt

The two ruckmen only played three games together last season. “I’ve got full faith in Jon,” Fremantle coach Ross Lyon said post-match. “Seeing Aaron playing in our front half a fair bit would be fantastic for us and we will see that at some point, just not at the moment. “But I thought Jon and Kepler (Bradley) as a tandem were really effective.” A series of toe injuries has hampered Sandilands over the past two seasons. These latest hamstring troubles cast further doubts on whether the 30-year-old’s body could still handle the rigours of elite football. By Roger Vaughan

@LondonBroncosRL facebook.com/LondonBroncosRL

THE Round 1 (Part I) By Will Denton ‘And no sooner as it was giveth, it was swiftly taketh awayeth.’ Well that’s what it feels like as the AFL’s controversial ‘lets just start the season off with a couple of games to keep em wanting more’ policy comes into full effect. Fans will have to wait just a bit longer before the big hit of games finally satisfies that insatiable match day hunger. And I’m not talking about a Four’nTwenty. Never again. Right. So what did happen? Well, we learned that Essendon moved a significant step forward in their quest to put what has been a simply horrendous summer behind them, by overcoming the Crows at AAMI stadium – and, allegedly drug free. Great effort lads. Good news too for James Hird with Pantene renewing his contract for another 2 years. The next day, Western Derby XXXVII showcased everything our great game has to offer. Towering grabs, dislocated fingers, a biff, total

RUBDOWN brain fades, arsey goals…and this was just Keplar Bradley’s game. It was all Eagles early though as they looked the goods in the setting sun, whilst the Dockers weren’t sure if they had their daylight saving times mixed up. Once the coaching staff explained the cross continental time zones at half time (to a collective ‘ohhhhhhh’ groan) it all clicked into place for Freo as they crashed, bashed and sliced open their West Coast opposition. No one felt the onslaught better than gun Eagle forward Mark Lecras (French I believe) who had his right forearm broken in a brutal contest. This was the Frenchman’s first game in over 18 months after coming back from a serious knee injury, so it’s a bitter pill to swallow for him and his club. One only hopes he isn’t single. And that was pretty much that for round one, part I. Luckily Thursday night it all starts again with Carlton kicking off with their usual opening round hiding of Richmond, right through until Monday when Hawthorn will try and actually beat Geelong in a footy match. Just gotta make it to Easter…Just gotta make it to Easter…Just gotta…

TRY TAG SOLIDARITY Aussies offer support for UK teams P14

A disgusted Mark Webber returns to Australia to go surfing after teammate Sebastian Vettel controversially steals Malaysian F1 Grand Prix from him against team orders.

MARK WEBBER TO RETHINK FUTURE By AJ Climpson-Stewart

MARK WEBBER has returned to Australia for the next two weeks to decide on his future with Red Bull Racing and Formula One. The Aussie driving ace was outspoken and clearly angry about the controversial finish to the Malaysian Grand Prix on Sunday,

which saw teammate Sebastian Vettel overtake him in the last 15laps to snatch the race. The number two Red Bull driver was furious at Vettel’s move in defiance of a team order. Both drivers had been instructed to turn their engines down to help conserve tyres and protect the cars as they were set for a safe team one-two

finish, led by Webber. Vettel ignored the orders though and began to challenge his teammate for the lead, saying Webber was driving to slow. He eventually forced the Australian to succumb on a tight corner. Webber was visibly angry after the race, and used the podium interview to air Red Bull’s dirty laundry.

“In the end, Seb made his own decisions today and will have protection as usual and that’s the way it goes,” a disgruntled Webber said. Vettel’s latest indiscretion brings tensions to boiling point again for Webber, who has often felt unfairly

...continued on p14

Tug-of-war for sacked NRL star SACKED Canberra star Josh Dugan has suddenly become the prize in an NRL signing tugof-war between a cashed-up St George Illawarra and Brisbane side desperately needing some attacking strike. The Dragons were hot favourites to pick up Dugan before the weekend. But confirmation on Monday young Broncos gun Corey Norman is headed to Parramatta in 2014 quickly led to speculation Brisbane’s interest in Dugan had ...continued on p15

New look Socceroos

VETERAN Mark Schwarzer predicts the Socceroos side of the future will play a drastically different brand of football as more players opt for non-European clubs. With only seven players who were in the 2010 World Cup squad named in 23-man squad to play Oman in Australia’s World Cup qualifier on Tuesday, it’s already a new-look Socceroos. But while the side goes through a period of transition, Schwarzer ...continued on p15

Harris new hope for Ashes Tests

SANDILANDS OUT FOR THREE MONTHS Freo star to go under knife for hammy | P15 DOCTOR’S ORDERS: Aaron Sandilands of the Fremantle Dockers will be out for up to 12 weeks. (AAP Image/Martin Philbey)

RETURNING former Test paceman Ryan Harris thundered into Ashes calculations with a spell that destroyed Tasmania’s top order in the Sheffield Shield final. The 33-year-old Queenslander produced a miracle spell of 4-6 in 5.3 overs to have his side back in a decider that had looked a lost cause over the first three days at Bellerive. He finished exhausted, with figures of 4-32 after a total of 54 overs in the match. It continued a superb return from Harris’s latest injury setback, adding to some impressive figures in his ...continued on p15