The Buhera’s in co-tenancy

Kapusi Krisztián www.coninprojekt.org The Buhera’s in co-tenancy – Ironmen along the Sajó River; the impact of heavy industry on cityscape and society in Miskolc and Roznava CONIN project:

The project was based on the collaboration of two professional staffs, each responsible for a series of workshops and events. The backbone of this was a series of workshops that included joint study tours to Selmecbánya (Banska Stiavnica) and Graz and a community film production. In addition, social science research has been carried out with mostly similar outputs: documentaries, exhibitions, publications and adventure tours. There has also been cultural heritage days held and professional excursions organized on both sites.

The construction of a professional relationship was therefore based on these workshops. Its essence was a common research of social science and micro-history, which was able to show similarities and differences in the history of the two cities with an industrial past, but it also proved to be suitable for the planned exchange of professional experiences.

The professional background of the project was well established by the main applicant, Passage Association in respect of the research and projects and the various cases has been taken since 2008. It was also guaranteed by the staff of the partner museum considering the institution’s past and present.

The purpose of this volume with the given length was to shed a light on the topics of the ongoing research and to give a glimpse of them by showing some interesting results and to give an account of the outputs and of some previous important antecedents and connection points.

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Published by the North East Passage Association Editor: Richárd Darázs Text: Attila Balogh, Zoltán Bereczki, Richárd Darázs, Ádám Fáy, Pál Horváth (Pavol Horváth), Krisztián Kapusi, Gabriella Koleszár (Gabriela Kolesárová), Pavol Lackanič.

Make-up, design: Eszter Török Corrector: Attila Balogh The photos are from previous and recent researches of the association (2008-2018). Thanks again to the families and archives of Miskolc!

Miskolc, 2018. www.atjarokhe.hu ISBN 978-615-81150-1-8

䈀甀椀氀搀椀渀最 倀愀爀琀渀攀爀猀栀椀瀀 䔀甀爀漀瀀攀愀渀 刀攀最椀漀渀愀氀 䐀攀瘀攀氀漀瀀洀攀渀琀 䘀甀渀搀 眀眀眀⸀猀欀栀甀⸀攀甀 簀 眀眀眀⸀猀欀ⴀ栀甀⸀攀甀

The content of the project does not necessarily reflect the European Union’s point of view.

䌀漀渀椀渀 倀爀漀樀攀欀琀 䌀伀一䤀一 ⴀ 䌀漀漀瀀攀爀愀琀椀漀渀 愀渀搀 一攀琀眀漀爀欀椀渀最 昀漀爀 倀爀攀猀攀爀瘀椀渀最 䌀漀洀洀漀渀 䤀渀搀甀猀琀爀椀愀氀 䠀攀爀椀琀愀最攀 ⴀ匀䬀䠀唀⼀㄀㘀 ㄀⼀㐀⸀㄀⼀㌀㐀㈀

DRÁZUS, SAJÓ, SZINVA Ironmen along the Sajó River – some interesting links between the two cities from the new age.

The rocky bed of the Drázus stream, which source is in the Slovak Ore Mountains, reaches Roznava (Rozsnyó) in the Cucma (Csucsom) Valley and flows into Sajó below the city. Before it reaches the Tisza, Sajó connects Roznava (Rozsnyó) area with Miskolc and, with the Szinva Valley.

Three watercourses, three roses. One of the most renowned buildings (Széchenyi str. 33.) is traditionally called ˝Three Roses˝. Its block, that is standing to this day, was built in 1878 between the Forgó Bridge (today called as „Villanyrendőr”) and the high road leading north. In its place, still holding the same name, there has already been a hotel at the time of the Hungarian Reform Era. The hotel’s most welcomed guest in 1840 was Lajos Kossuth, who later became governor of Hungary. Lajos Kossuth in the Three Roses and in the city of three roses. The first Kossuth sculpture of József Rónai was revealed in 1898 in Miskolc, then the one in Roznava was done by 1907.

Three watercourses ... Three roses decorate the facade of the aforementioned, classy building of Miskolc, just like in the coat of arms of the city of Roznava. The center of Gemer’s (Gömör) spiritual life, the „Athens by the Drázus”, has its named derived from roses somehow. Roznava and the nearby Rimavská Sobotá (Rimaszombat) demonstrated their brotherhood-like friendship in 1850 when they named their most significant hotels after each other’s coat-of-arms.

So the building of Black Eagle was built at Roznava’s main square, and the Three Roses in Rimavská Sobotá. And in Miskolc? We do not know the answer to this day, but many other common features are factual.

The sought-after portrait painter from the Biedermeier Era, Lajos Latkóczy (1821 - 1875) was born in Roznava, but finished his career in Miskolc. Unlike the portraiture of Latkóczy, Károly Markó (1793 - 1860) was most well-known for his landscapes, however his hometown was also Roznava. Their glamorous origin was proven by a noble dog leather, while the civilian well-being was the result of their up-to-date leather processing factory. The office building on the shore of Drázus is now used by the city museum, which was serving culture with noble objectives and a modern look on it.

Pál Markó’s (Rozsnyó, 1817 - Miskolc, 1888) connection to Roznava and his interest in the leather factory held up until the end of his life, but in 1855 he moved to Miskolc with his wife and children. As a director of the leather factory in Roznava, he won a gold medal certificate in Miskolc with his belt conveyors and leather shoe slippers at the 1871 industrial exhibition. He played a significant public role in the capital of Borsod County, and from 1868 he was a member of the Lutheran Church Council. His son, László Markó (Roznava, 1848 - Miskolc, 1918) gained a medical degree in Vienna, then increased the recognition of his family by becoming the county chief physician, the Evangelical schoolmaster and the president of the Miskolc Civil Association. Their relations and relatives remained in Roznava, but the leather factory was left out of their interest, instead however in a 1938 publication, „the Markó sheep cheese, the favorite of hikers” was propagated as one of the sought after products of Roznava.

In the area of Miskolc, the coal mine of Pereces started to produce in 1868 as an accessory to the Diósgyőr State Ironworks. However, the city did not only receive sheep cheese from Roznava. The oil lamps used in the mines around Miskolc are still preserved by the Otto Herman Museum. Local miners used products that were produced by L. et J. Company from Roznava. The cityscape, society and lifestyle of Miskolc and Roznava were fundamentally influenced by the factory chimneys, blast furnaces and adits of heavy industry from the beginning of the 20th century.

Attila Balogh

COMEDY IN THE PALACE, THRILLER AT SELYEMRÉT Our gap filler film history review tries to find an answer to what kind of film making has been performed and which works have been filmed in our city.

Everyone knows that Meseautó (Dream car) is a film from Miskolc, or at least they think they know it. The ’’Miskolcness” of the TV series, Utánam, srácok! (Follow me, lads!) is also widespread among the nation. In reality, we cannot confidently state that the stories took place here or that the wholesome of the shooting was held in the city before the release in 1934 and 1974.

As far as the venues are concerned, the Palace Hotel in Lillafüred is obviously the most commonly screened scenery in Borsod County.

Meseautó’s scenes mostly takes place in the capital, it was filmed and made in a film studio in Budapest. The plot relocates from Budapest to Lillafüred for the last third of the one and a half hour movie. We can see a landscape of Bükk Mountains, the building of the hotel, that was built a few years earlier, from the inside and outside (we do not have the confirmation about the former) and a plan view of Felső-Hámor. Zita Perczel, the main character, previously says that ’’I am going for a holiday [...] to Lillafüred with my partner”. After, one of the male main characters, Gyula Kabos gets on a bus, the side of which indicates the direction: ’’Budapest – Lillafüred” and below it says ’’Miskolc”.

Eight years later, similar venues appear in the comedy called Egér a Palotában (Mouse in the Palace) (1942) with identical features. On the opening credits the subtitle says: ’’The external footage of the Palace Hotel in Lillafüred was sponsored by the Hungarian Royal Ministry of Agriculture” (sic!). Also: „Lillafüred’s exterior footage: Ferenc Fekete” [sic!].

Excess compared to the much more successful predecessor was a boat ride on the Hámori Lake.

Lillafüred also appears in some episodes of the teen TV series recorded in the summer and fall of 1974. The Palace is only seen for seconds in the distance, however the narrow-gage railway, the upper parking lot, the viaduct and the ’’mesekert” are real shooting venues. Utánam, srácok! takes place in a single location, in one settlement, but the shooting locations can be grouped 200 kilometers apart. It is not stated (and not written in the novel written parallel with the script) that we are in Miskolc, but half a dozen of locations of Miskolc can be clearly identified. All other scenes, which are not typical of Miskolc, were recorded in or around Budapest: the housing estate, the school, the cave:

these are misconceived scenes from Miskolc – however, people make these assumptions fairly often (and are ineradicable). However, we can properly identify Avasalja Street, the Diósgyőr Castle, Felső-Hámor, Széchenyi Street, the housing estate of Diósgyőr, the Cave bath of Tapolca, as well as the blast furnace, the area of the cooling towers and the tracks of the industrial railway station.

There are two other less well-known films. In one of them the name of the city is mentioned, in the other they only say ’’city”, but Lillafüred is also mentioned and most of the story definitely has a connection to Miskolc. These are: Teljes gőzzel (Full Steam) from 1951 (Tiszai railway station and its area can be seen) and a television film introduced in 1974, Különös vadászat (Strange Hunt), which is a spy story orchestrated to the environment of the Bükk Mountains (Palace Hotel, Hámor, Vasgyár (Steel Factory) and the railway crossing at Gózon Gyula Street are visual).

The A miskolci Boniésklájd (Who the Hell’s Bonnie and Clyde) (2004) obviously elaborates a story from Miskolc and the director, Krisztina Deák recorded the real-life story of a modern rogue couple on some more or less authentic, original locations. Recognizable locations are: Miskolc-Avas TV Tower, downtown, Gömör overpass, Katalin Street and Lillafüred.

The venues from Miskolc on the 2012 thriller Utolér (Run to Ground) are Görömböly, Selyemrét, the Avas household estate, the Vasgyári market and Dayka Gábor Street.

Another piece on our list is Magyar vándor (Hungarian Vagabond) (2004), of which we suppose to intentionally cite its predecessor from seven decades earlier: the Palace Hotel scenes from Meseautó.

The ice skating scenes from Zoltan Huszárik’s Szindbád (Sinbad) (1971) were recorded on Hámori Lake, although Zoltán Latinovits with his partner, Anna Nagy are only shown there for a few seconds.

Tamás és Juli (Tamas and Juli) (1997) is a love story set on a fictional mining site. In Ildikó Enyedi’s film Lyukó, Hámor and the Szikla bar in Hámor can be identified.

In one of the mini-stories of the anthology film called Kár a benzinért (Waste of Fuel) (1964), an office driver (Imre Sinkovits) brings his newlywed to Lillafüred for honeymoon. Exiting from their car, they admire the Palace Hotel’s idyllic sight.

According to these statistics, Sinkovits is the actor, who is connected to Miskolc the most and he is the protagonist of János Herskó’s drama, Párbeszéd (Dialogue) (1963). His charecter is moved to Ózd from the capital and he goes there to work from Miskolc, where he lives for a while. He heads to the cafe of Avas Hotel and through its windows we can also see Széchenyi Street, the Aranyszarvas pharmacy and the corner house on the opposite side of Erzsébet Square.

THE BUHERA’S IN CO-TENANCY

I was a little bit drunk at the office party...

IRONMEN ALONG THE SAJÓ RIVER; THE IMPACT OF HEAVY INDUSTRY ON CITYSCAPE AND SOCIETY IN MISKOLC AND ROZNAVA Our imaginary ’’type-like” family moves from the countryside to Miskolc as the result of the increasing steel industry in the 1950s with regard to the job opportunities offered by the heavy industry. As co-tenants, they manage to get ownership for a corridor of a property with very low comfort level. The classic building has seen better days in ’’happy peacetimes’’, however now, after the nationalization, it is utilized as an apartment granted for the families in need and divided into small premises by the city council.

The family is lucky to receive a television through sweepstakes. It is a big deal, neighbors come over in big numbers to watch the evening program bringing their own chairs and spritzer.

The temporary accommodation is now empty... No sign of the family and the neighbors. Let’s take a look at their apartment!

Learn about the poor equipment left behind and their certainly more colorful thoughts, desires, and topics of conversation.

THE NEIGHBORS WERE TALKING ABOUT THE FOLLOWING: If only we had a car...

If only we would get an apartment at the new housing estate under construction...

Have you heard what happened at the factory?

The old mates were explaining...

Do you remember the marches?

On the works excursion...

It would be nice to have a cottage...

Were you at the game?

Pisti got enlisted, Józsi got decommissioned...

Have you heard this joke?

We are going to the cinema on Saturday!

We could go on a holiday with a trade union referral...

The window broke through, the kids were playing ’’kama’’ on the lot.

We were in Czechsko, the sneakers are really cheap!

The brass band sounded great!

The ’’Utánam, srácok!’’ is on the TV!

Ádám Fáy

THE ’’BIG THREE’’ ORCHESTRAS

In Miskolc, from the beginning of the twentieth century, numerous smaller or big brass bands have been formed. Anyone who lived this era of the city would surely remember the „Big Three” orchestras: the Vasutas (Railway men) Brass Band, the Vasas (Ironworker) Brass Band and the Bányász (Miner) Brass Band. They probably worked with the largest membership and for the longest time; and although the previous two - in part due to the termination of the maintainer companies and the lack of funding - have been discontinued, the mining band still exists today.

The existence of all three of the orchestras from Miskolc are due to large state-owned enterprises; the Vasutas Orchestra thanks to the „railway”, the Bányász is to the mining company, and Vasas is to the ironworks (including to the steel factory – Ógyár (Old Factory), later called LKM, and to the machine and weapon factory - Digép).

At the time of their formation and in the early stages of their history, the membership of the bands was almost entirely made up of workers who were amateurs and were solely involved in the collaboration for their enthusiasm for music and the cause. Music school education in Miskolc had less significance in the first half than the second half of the 20th century. Musician prospects typically learned after school or work, taught by conductors or more so from older musicians. Of course, we can also find some who have been involved in some kind of institutional training. Another feature of the initial period of these orchestras was that the membership consisted exclusively from the employees of the maintainer company. ’’Oh, the old Vasas musicians have aged out. However, until then we can say that they only were factory workers. Same as the miners in Pereces. Or the railway men at the Vasút.’’ 1

’’FLYING BANDS”

A lot of brass musicians, besides their factory work and the grand orchestra, were doing entertainment or weddings for long periods of time: they played in village weddings and factory balls. „In the summer season, there were, of course, outdoor entertainment establishments. These gardens were widespread at Győri kapu, at Vasgyár and all around Miskolc as well and they occupied musicians with contracts.

This was not a temporary workplace, we were only contracted by the Catering Company for the summer season, for three months as a secondary job, besides work, in our free time. This was called the ’flying’ band at the time. All the regular bands performing at the given place had a day off. And then we (the ’flying’ band) were going there, to that club, where the band had their day off. We were playing in Lillafüred, where Tölgyfa and the Vadász restaurant were still functioning. Here, in Újdiósgyőr there was the Rózskert restaurant and the Polónia restaurant across the theater, you know, the polish restaurant; we also played there. Back then we had the Gyöngy bar on the corner at Ady Bridge, where we also played and then out there in Tapolca, in the garden. The summer has gone by like that, then we had the orchestra for the rest of the year.” 2

CONDUCTORS

’’Károly Deli was like, there were Russian soldiers on Pingyom, I don’t know, a company, a regiment or something like that, he went out to them and asked for some kind of a copper to put it on the front of our hats. The Russians had that as well, so he also asked for it.

There is a picture taken of when we had it on. We looked like generals. The other bands, all three were functional back then, the other bands mocked us by calling us generals.’’ 3 ’’Yes, Viktor Ujj was a really great conductor in the Vasas Band. He was an exceptional, exceptional man! Musically and otherwise as well. Well, he was a teacher, moreover, the headmaster in the school at Vasgyár. He played all kinds of instruments, the piano, the organ, the tuba, the flute, his knowledge was very-very exceptional. He was a gentleman as well.” 4 1

Interview excerpt– Lajos Kerekes,

2

Interview excerpt– László Nemeskéri,

3

Interview excerpt – Lajos Kerekes,

4

Interview excerpt – Lajos Kerekes

THE IRONWORKER PROFESSION IS LIKE RIDING A BICYCLE ’’I was at Dimávag, working at the maintenance workshop at the beginning of the 1950s.

I was in a brigade of five members. Back then we needed to constantly maintain the manufacturer machinery and it was scheduled, when a major, a minor or a medium repair is needed... What everyone was doing was set and there also were unexpected malfunctions, for which the most suitable man was sent to take care of.

Uncle Gyuri Gombos, uncle Pista Juhász and uncle Pista Molnár, he was the manager, a lot of uncle Pistas, of course I was calling them uncles. The entire department was in the same factory hall, the maintenance workshop alone, and a small group initially, and when we were doing the scheduled major repairs, then we got the entire hall for ourselves. Every time someone had a major, a quick or a medium repair alternately, in rotations, or I was on duty to do hotfixes. For the major and unexpected repairs, we had a group of two or three, different people every time in three shifts.

The maintenance workshop was not a production plant. Soon, I got replaced to the heavy tool machine factory, where we manufactured the so-called heavy tools, which were used in the arms industry, for guns and cannons. There were different type of accidents at The Asian firing range, but I don’t remember that anybody would die. For the firing tests, there were professionals on the scene. If I remember correctly, we produced everything from monumental ships and diesel engines to tanks, engines and different types of anti-aircraft missiles. There were huge pipelines, drillers and vertical machines, that were, like, lowered one floor deep and still reaching to the top of the hall, which was like twenty meters tall.

That is where the accident happened to me, 40% of my body has been burnt. We were celebrating 7th of November on 9. November 1952. The factory was closed down for two days, because it happened to be on such a day. I don’t remember on which day, but the maintenance workshop had to go to work, but I think other departments had to as well, because of the holiday.

We had a hot plate on our table, because it was so cold at the maintenance workshop. We turned it on and heated with it and we would stand by it to warm ourselves, because the heating was turned off. At that time it was important how much energy flows. So everyone gathered closely around the hot plate, in our smocks and some of us cleaned it before the holiday on the 7th by using petroleum to get the oil out. It was drying for two days, but as it was cold, it didn’t matter that it was rinsed, the cloth on me started to steam and eventually got on fire. As I was running out, there was a huge reservoir pool on the yard. When I started to run, I though, I would jump into it, but someone came from another hall and shouted: Lay down into a puddle! As it was not so cold then, I rolled into the puddle and that is how the fire got extinguished. Then the ambulance took me to the hospital, where it became clear, that 40% of my body has been burnt, mainly the back of it fortunately, but I survived it. Well, I was 17 at the time, so it might be because of my young body. If I jumped into the pool, I could have drowned and died there.

It took me 3 months to recover, two in the hospital and after that they had to replace the skin, especially on my arms, as I wore a T-shirt and my skin and wheat were directly burning there. Now that was a massive accident. Do you know what’s interesting about it? It was a couple of years ago that our circle of friends met up in Budapest and I started to talk about the Digép with someone. It turned out that he was György Kovács, same age as me, he was from 1935 as well, maybe 11 months older, as I was born in November, while he was in January. We started to talk about the heavy tool machine and I mentioned that I had an accident there.

What was it? he asked. Well, the smock got fire on me so I was burning and running, I said. He asked: Was that you? What do you mean it was me? I asked. Well, I was the one shouting at you to lay down in the puddle, as I was walking out of the other hall! Believe it or not!

We are good friends since then. It turned out that he also was from Miskolc and he worked there as well, but he was at the assembly.

No, I was not punished, this was a fatal accident. The truth is that it was forbidden to wash the smocks in there, because the petroleum was not for that, we used petroleum when we took the machines apart, it was used to wash the parts. We were not retaliated, because we did not use up the fuel, but they forbade us to do anything like that from then on. Everybody had to take the smock home or to the laundry or wherever. But the petroleum was the best to wash the oil and grease out of it but the best solution was to wash it out well in a washing machine after, when it is not oily anymore, but I didn’t do that back then. I rinsed it and there was a big centrifuge, which they used to spin the coolant off of the steel wool that came off of the cutting machine. They spun the rapeseed oil and the coolant off of it officially so the oil wouldn’t get back to the blast furnace, because the cut off steel materials were taken back there.

When I was healed, I got back to the same place of course, without further ado. Then I received my Young Master of the Profession title, a silver medal from there, after I took my exam. In 1960, I had the opportunity to be an actor, as I was playing as an amateur in the theater and puppet theater group of LKM. After that I had the opportunity to go to college and then to the National Puppet Theater. This is how my move to Budapest happened and I finally gave up the ironworker profession. It is, of course, impossible to give up completely, because it remains in one’s hands for a lifetime. The ironworker profession is like riding a bicycle, once you learn it, you will have it in your soul. ”

Henrik Gyurkó

The model of Diósgyőr Steelworks’ 3rd plant at the exhibition „When the furnace was still blowing” from the collection of the Foundation for Fostering the History of Northeast Hungary’s Industry; in the lower right corner you can see the miniaturized version of the former maintenance workshop and the reservoir)

’’The steel factory of Diósgyőr: I was liberated there as an iron turner. My mother died early. My mother’s relatives lived in Miskolc. I was one and a half, when they took me in in 1936, then I went to school to my native village. I was a good student, there was a higher education fever in the country. They were saying that the future is ahead of us! They did not have a seat for me in the high school, so I decided to work in the iron industry. That’s how I got to Vasgyár.

Henrik had the same type of shoes as I did. As I remember the accident, they called the ambulance and we calmed down, because he was in good hands then. This part was over.

Then we met [after half a century in Budapest] in the 17th district, because there was a gathering. Someone mentioned Miskolc and that I learned the profession there and then...

I remember the puddle, we saved Henrik from that situation, and we have done it. People were talking about it for a long time, we received a commendation in [school] class, and our homeroom teacher was called Kozma. We thought that it was natural for us to help. ”

György Kovács

Zoltán Bereczki

THE DIÓSGYŐR-VASGYÁR COLONY IN 3D BACKGROUND

At the beginning of 2010, the model of some buildings of the Diosgyőr-Vasgyár colony has been created for a tender announced by Google (creator: Zoltán Bereczki, architect). The next result of the local modeling of the industrial heritage was that in 2014 we created the virtual museum of Pereces, the mine of Vasgyár, by 3D rendering the state of them at the turn of the 20th century in the frameworks of the Tündérkert (Fairy Garden) project (perecesitanosveny.hu). Over the years, the continuation of the modeling of the Vasgyár colony was constantly on the agenda. The main goal was that, similarly to Pereces, to depict the golden age of the colony in the early 1900s, thus raising the awareness of the public, that the area, which is seen as particularly bad and is currently in a rather devastated state, has significant values.

ABOUT THE BUILDINGS OF THE COLONY

The Iron Factory of Diósgyőr (Vasgyár) was built in 1860, namely in Diósgyőr, but in reality on the empty space lying between Miskolc and Diósgyőr, which were not united back in the day. The settlement created for housing officers, non-commissioned officers and workers, mainly for the pursuit for self-sufficiency, soon tried to become and autonomous settlement, even though the legal detachment from Diósgyőr was not possible. Of course, the largest number of houses are residential buildings, but the advanced infrastructure required many public buildings as well. Thus, during decades several schools, churches, a multi-story hospital, commercial and catering facilities, a pharmacy and a post office were established.

During the project, the following buildings were modeled: RESIDENTIAL HOUSES

• DIRECTOR’S HOUSE • 3 TYPES OF OFFICER HOUSES

PUBLIC HOUSES

• OFFICE HOUSE • BUILDINGS OF ÓGYÁR SQUARE: Konzum (Food store) two market halls Buildings of Gate I creamery Bath • ANGYALVÁR • GIRL SCHOOL • BOY SCHOOL

HOUSING, ENVIRONMENT, WORKPLACE - The Image, Society and Production of Industrial Cities in the 20th Century Scientific Conference 28. november 2018. MAB-székház

Socialist towns and industrial heritage The CONIN Project TheDiósgyőr-Vasgyárcolony Industrial buildings of Roznava Bana (Rozsnyóbánya) Drázus, Sajó, Szinva CinemaMiskolc Graphic representations of the Miskolc-Avas TV Tower Worker images and the media People’s automobiles: cars from the 70’s Housing estates in Miskolc Summer kitchens on the colonies The Salgótarján colony Black Books: discipline at RIMA Brass bands in Miskolc and Roznava Hungarian iron ore mines in Roznava (Rozsnyó) A housing estate for workmen Workers’ well-being and culture in Vasgyár Iron and Miskolc Industrial heritage camp Eden in Vasgyár The image of settlements along the Trnava(Tarna) Stream Chemical industry of Kazincbarcika Parks, small gardens, garages Pécs - the Uranium City The MÁVAG colony Worker hygiene in Angyalföld

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Pál Horváth

ROZNAVA THE MINE OF ROZNAVA

The owner of the mine, the Ironworks of Rimamurány-Salgótarján Stock Company (RIMA) built housing estates to all of their mining operations to provide enough labor for them.

The start of Roznava Bana (Hun: Rozsnyóbánya) and the housing estate’s construction dates back to 1905. The company built the settlement right next to the mouth of Sadlovky Adit (Svk: štôlňa Sadlovký, Hun: Szadlovszki-táró). Until 1909, they finished the operational and administrative buildings, the medical center, the stores, the food storage and the apartments of middle and upper management professionals. On the hillside above they gradually built the workers’ homes of the housing estate in two rows. Each row had 13 single-story houses with each house having 6 flats. An apartment had a bedroom, a kitchen and a pantry. There were no bathrooms or water pipes in the flats. Each house had a common yard for the six families. Drinking water could be taken from the wells on the street.

A common well and a public water tap belonged to every two houses. ’’The apartment of officers were on the so-called gentlemen’s row. They were single-story as well, but they had multiple rooms, a bathroom, a toilet, an attic and a separate yard. A garden also belonged to each apartment.” ’’The officers of RIMA did not receive high salaries, but they got other benefits, they had their own apartment and a garden. The garden was taken care of by a RIMA Company gardener. High rank officers received fuel and electricity for free. This is how they tried to reach that senior management members stay faithful to the company. There were barns not too far from the casino, where horses were prepared for the hutman [security officer], AKA the chief inspector. A coachman cared for each pair of horses, who fed and cleaned them. The coachmen took the officers or their wives to Roznava with horse-drawn carriages, if they needed to take care of something or to do some shopping.” „Some long time ago, there was a grocery, where the store also is today in Rozsnyóbánya. When there was payment, they gave it to the miners into a booklet and then they were going to pay the thing. They payed in place, the salesperson wrote everything up. Once they received their monthly payment, they were going with their booklets to pay for everything.” ’’There was one oven in Rozsnyóbánya, where the women from the colony brought their bread to be baked. Then, the baker from Szőllős-Sajóházáról [Svk: Nadabula] took them over and baked them for free. But before that, they stuck a tag on the top of the bread, so they would know whose it is. They brought the breads there to be baked: they knead it at home and brought there to the bread baskets.”

Simultaneously with the building of the factory and the mine, RIMA established a school and the teacher’s residence on the estate. The school was for the residents’ children of the settlement. The mining company was responsible for maintaining the school and paying the teachers.

In the ‚50s and’ 60s, the living conditions of the population of the settlement began to improve. A drinking water pipeline was built in the settlement and it was installed into every apartment. Until then, only a slight improvement was noticeable in the housing conditions of workers. Multi-member families also lived in an apartment with only one bedroom and a kitchen, in very difficult living conditions. The housing issue was solved only after the construction of some new homes in Roznava. The workers’ houses were started to being sold in the settlement after 1964.

3D INTRODUCTION OF THE MINE OF ROZNAVA The idea of the 3-dimensional representation of the Roznava Bana (Rozsnyóbánya) Colony came up in the autumn of 2017 in the framework of a cross-border Interreg (SKHU 1601 / 4.1 / 342) project, as a cooperation between Hungary and Slovakia (i.e. Miskolc and Rožňava). The finished 3D digital models represent various buildings from the beginning of the 20th century to the end of the 1980s.

We have tried to showcase residential homes, office buildings and industrial buildings alike. My work is related to the 3D visualization of Diósgyőr-Vasgyár, which was completed by Zoltán Bereczki, in cooperation with this project. The digital display was made using the Google Sketchup 2017 software, based on contemporary designs of buildings, recent and current photos, and Googlemaps.

The 3D representation represents the following buildings: • • • • • • • • •

The director’s house of the mine from 1903 The new director’s house Double factory floor from 1988 Railway loading house Building of the working militia’s operational unit Bus stop and service parking lot in Roznava Bana Headquarter of the workers’ union next to the iron ore mine in Roznava Coalbunker and ore roaster Rotary kiln and iron ore processor building

ABOUT THE SETTLEMENT

The settlement consisted of two rows of residential houses. There were 13 single-story buildings in both rows and 6 housing units in each building. The layout of the apartments consisted of a room, a kitchen and a pantry. There were no water pipes or bathrooms in the flats. The houses were covered with a tin roof and each facade was painted equally on ochre yellow. All six families had a yard for themselves. The toilets were between two buildings, made out of wood. Inadequate hygiene equipment caused unpleasant smells, and, moreover, often epidemic illnesses. These deficiencies were only abolished after 1945.

The officers’ (one story) apartments had several rooms, with a bathroom, their own toilet, a garret and a private courtyard. In the courtyard there was a washing house and a garden belonging to each apartment.

As the plant was continued to be built and expanded, the company of Rimamurany built a school at the housing estate, and an apartment for the teacher next to it. In the school, the residents’ children living on the housing estate could do their studies.

THE ROASTER The roaster was placed next to the Roznava-Dobsina railway, from where the tracks lead directly to the ore processor and to the power distributors. 60 ore roasters was built between 1901 and 1909 using iron sheets. Two more ore roasters were made in 1935, this time with mechanical carrier elements. The last ore roaster was built in 1955. In the same year, the Fleischne-Apold furnace was shut down.

The small, hand-distributed roasters were gradually shut down until 1969. After that the building were tore down.

THE BUILDING OF THE WORKS MANAGEMENT

ABOUT THE FACTORY

The original building of the works management was built in 1903. In the collection of the Mining Museum of Roznava, the contemporary blueprints of the building can be found. The building has gone through some major changes during the years, however, it still stands today. The new management building was built in the 1980s. Currently, both projects are in really bad shape. The building of the workers’ militia, which was built in 1980 and can be found opposite to the new management building, is somewhat in a better condition.

The Rimamurány-Salgótarján Stock Company built a whole industrial complex in Roznava Bana, consisting of a gravity iron ore processor, an ore roaster, a rotary kiln and other different sites. The building of the iron ore processor was built in the center of the factory, about 150 meters away from the Sadlovsky shaft in 1905, then they built the mechanized ore roaster in 1929. This equipment was built with a sorting belt and a grinding apparatus. The prepared, grinded iron ore was delivered to the roaster with mine cars pulled by a locomotive. This delivery method was later substituted by a conveyor system. There was a fire in the ore processor in 1972 causing major damage. In 1976, it was declared to be less effective, so it has been removed from production and fully stopped working the next year.

At the time of the construction of the new industrial zone between 2004 and 2008, a number of plant facilities were abolished in Roznava Bana (Rozsnyóbánya). Some of the remaining buildings are used by small and medium-sized enterprises. The situation is worse with the housing estates at the mines, where disadvantaged families have recently been placed, affecting the current technical condition of the houses.

Our plans include displaying digital models of additional buildings from the affected area through 3D visualization in the future.

Gabriella Koleszár MINING SCHOOL IN ROZNAVA Sometime in the past, mining experts tried to teach mining apprentices in addition to their daily work. In this region, mostly lone exploiters were operating and they mainly extracted surface deposits. After the Hungarian State Treasury got hold of the mines, the planned education of non-commissioned mine officers began in the area of Szepes (Svk: Spis) and Gömör (Svk: Gemer). First the mining school in Szomolnok (Svk: Smolník) was established in 1747, then one in 1860 in Dobsina. After the latter was shut down in 1896, the lack of non-commissioned mine officers reappeared over time.

At the beginning of the 20th century, when iron ore production boomed, more and more machines began to be used.

The management of industrial works required greater experience, which the technically inappropriately trained technical managers were not able to ensure on a sufficient level.

The Borsod-Gömör subdivision of the Hungarian National Mining and Metallurgy Association (OBMKE) came out with the idea in 1903 to establish a mining industry school.

At a committee meeting in March 1904, a committee has been selected for the establishment of the school, which proposed ’’the establishment of a mining school for the training of non-commissioned mine officers in Dobsina or Roznava as an evening school where the students would attend after their mining work is over. The education will consist of 2 years, with two semesters per grade. 3 hours of teaching time per day. The OMBKE’s Borsod-Gömör department will be responsible for the institution and the state will oversee the education.” The submitted proposal was approved. The management decided to set up the school in Roznava, in one of the rooms of the museum building.

As a result of the war, the school ceased to exist in 1917.

VOCATIONAL SCHOOL OF MINING IN ROZNAVA In 1946, the National Enterprise of Iron Ore Mines (Hun: Vasércbányák Nemzeti Vállalat, Svk: Národný podnik Železorudné bane) was established, with its biggest mines: Ötösbánya (Svk: Rudňany), Rozsnyó (Rožňava), Alsó-Sajó (Nižná Slaná), Vashegy (Železník), Dobsina (Dobšiná) és Iglófehérhegy (Mlynky). The greatest difficulty here was the lack of skilled workers. Following the example of the Ötösbánya, where a vocational and factory school was established, this form of education also began to spread in other parts of Gemer County, including Roznava, by setting up an institution for mining apprentices. On September 1, 1948, the first school year started in the building of today’s Mining Museum with a total of 17 participants.

The students arrived in turns in the first two academic years: on one week there was theoretical education, on the second week there was vocational training. In the 3rd academic year they were going there on a two-week basis: two days of theoretical education and on the other days they had vocational training. By completing the three-year studies and completing the final exam, the trainee received an internship certificate.

The Vocational Secondary School of Mining in Roznava was established by a decision of June 30, 1980. In the 1990/91 academic year, the mining title was dropped from the name of the vocational secondary school because the education of the entire mining branch was cancelled.

FREE TIME The first cultural institution at the Rožňava (Rozsnyó) Mining Site was founded in 1907, which was the so-called youth society book club. At that time the construction of a housing estate was completed and the operational buildings were already in the process of being completed. As the seat of the reading club, the so-called ’provizorát’ (originally a factory food warehouse) served. This is how the building was called, where the grocery store, the pub and lounge areas (casino for officers; separately for senior officials and for lower rank technicians) were to be found. Only men were allowed in the casinos, playing cards in the evenings there. In the reading room’s premises, apart from reading newspapers and borrowing books, licensed board games could also be played. This association was the only cultural and social center for miners. However, the colony was not missing either a bowling alley or a tennis court.

The factory brass band was founded in 1916, and then attended all public festivals, concerts, factory celebrations, as well as burials of factory workers. In addition to the brass band, there was a jazz band that played during dances. „We were often going to the Calvary for a hike, from there a nice path led to the Roznava Bath. As high school students, we were often going to the bath, where a live band played at the time of the 5 o’clock tea for example. From five to eight, or something like that, this period of time was for students. The bath was beautiful at that time, and there was the possibility for a boat ride.”

After 1945 culture became more developed and more accessible to all workers, under the protection of trade unions. The background of cultural activities was provided by the factory club (under the ROH), which took place in the refurbished building of the former ’provizorát’. In addition to the aforementioned music department, the library, the drama club was given space here as well, and in 1950 film screening also started. The construction of the cinema was completed in this club building four years later. At that time this widescreen movie theater was the only one in the entire Roznava district. The cultural and sporting events of the factory club have gradually become more and more intense since 1961. Table tennis, bowling and chess tournaments, carnival and New Year’s Eve balls, tea parties, group travels, exhibitions from the pictures taken by the photo club and much more have taken place. The Bányász (Svk: Baník, Eng: Miners) sports club has been active for many years, including football, basketball, table tennis, touring and athletics.

Pavol Lackanič THE MINER BRASS BAND OF ROZNAVA

Since the middle of the nineteenth century, wind music was considered a special music genre in European countries, after having been excelled from the great classical orchestras. Its style stems from a combination of European classical and folk music. It has become a playful musical genre, which has since become widely popular, typically as a music for parades, memorial services, dances (polka, waltz) as well as concerts. As an entertaining genre, it has a wide selection of wind instruments (trumpets, clarinets, horns), and the rhythmic base is mainly provided by simple percussion instruments (big drum, snare drum, cymbals).

In the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, brass bands first appeared in the army (as military bands), and their repertoire was confined to marches of soldiers. In Slovakia, wind music came from the West, i.e. from Czechia and Moravia. Wind ensembles quickly spread across the industrial areas, adapting to the challenges of typical local: worker, firefighter and miner music.

The mining brass band, as a major element of social and cultural life, appeared at the end of the 19th century in the industrialized areas of today’s Slovakia. In Gemer (Gömör), the oldest wind music can be found in Dobšina (Dobsina), where the band was founded in 1890 as a firefighter marching band. In the region, the other brass band, which was established in the nearby Betliar (Betlér) in 1897, also typically served as a firefighter orchestra.

In Rožňava (Rozsnyó), the appearance of the big brass is related to the year 1914 when the mining plant at Rožňava Baňa (Rozsnyóbánya) has already been operating. The band had 23 members and all the major instruments and devices were present. The orchestra consisted mainly of factory workers and was led by conductor, Alojz Giesel Sr. Then in 1920 Ladislav (László) Kubík appeared in the same position. After that, the band operated with an almost unchanged composition until 1922, when Alojz Giesel Sr. returned to lead the band and remained in his position until his death in 1930. During his work, he raised his son, Alojz Giesel Jr. to be his successor as the head of the band, who successfully led the ensemble until 1954. The mining brass band led by him played regularly in the first Czechoslovak Republic on festive occasions (e.g. on May 1) and also at organized worker’s meetings in the city. Only the period between 1938 and 1945 was an exception when Roznava was annexed to Hungary thanks to the Vienna Awards, and Michal Lőcsi was appointed as the leader, who was not particularly popular as a conductor. As it remained, he was arrogant to the musicians, but not only that, the sharpening of social and national tensions, as well as the low level of professionalism, also led to the decline of the orchestra during the World War. After the return of the popular Uncle Lojzi, i.e. Alojz Giesel Jr., despite his serious wounds, he raised the art level of the band back to its original level with his responsible attitude and high professional standards. After his death, in 1955, for a short time (for four months), he was taken over by Imrich Mikuš, the conductor of the workers’ choir.

In the history of the mining brass band of Roznava, the last conductor was Karol Králik nominated in 1956. In his youth he took the conductor training in Kosice (Hun: Kassa). He remained in his position for forty years and thanks to him, the quality and professionalism of orchestral work increased significantly. During his leadership, the number of members increased gradually, which he reached by a targeted education of young and talented musicians (most of them were students of the mining faculty in Roznava). The ambitions of the band leader were also assisted by the board of the iron ore mine of Roznava and the local trade union (ROH).

The increased importance of the band in the public eye was perceptible particularly in the 70s and 80s of the last century. The mining brass band did not miss any important public events in Roznava or its surroundings, so it became part of the social life of the city and the wider region. They attended festivities such as May 1 and 9, the mining day, various wind music festivals, memorial services and miner funerals. The professional work of the conductor, Karol Králik also contributed to the preservation of the folkloric traditions of Rožňava, which manifested, among other things, in the establishment of the brass band called Pioneer’s Mining Brass Band

(Hun: Úttörők Bányász Fúvószenekara, Svk: Pionierska dychovka Mladý baník) formed from the pupils of primary schools in Roznava. The latter also operated independently, in Roznava, under the leadership of Karol Králik, between 1947 and 1983, and it ensured continuous supply for the mining brass band.

During 1980, the orchestra of the iron ore factory performed 123 times for the public in Roznava Bana. In the second half of the 1980s, the band’s reached its peak of his history in Gemer (Gömör) county. At that time there were ten active orchestras in the region, each with 20-25 members. More than 100 musicians were involved in the mining brass band of Roznava (including the pioneers).

By the early 1990s, an economic downturn occurred in the city and its region, including the cutback of the Iron Ore Mine of Roznava. There were also redundancies elsewhere, which resulted in a decline of production. These factors were also reflected in the life of the brass band, which gradually deteriorated and ceased to exist. Notwithstanding the great efforts, the unfavorable outcome cloud not be avoided: by 1996, the orchestra, after becoming the municipality’s competence, ceased to exist.

Gabriella Koleszár THE WORKER’S GLEE CLUB OF ROZNAVA The establishment of the Glee Club of Roznava can be traced back to the last quarter of 1863, as a preserved letter of invitation has already advertised the first public appearance on 28 January 1864.

At the time of their formation they started as a male choir with only a few members, which gradually increased. Most of the members of the glee club were made up of miners, workers, craftsmen, and a handful of intellectuals. It primarily operated as a male choir, it was only extended with female singers for special occasions. From the time of its founding, it operated as an independent glee club until 1900. From then on, they gave concerts as a choir of various associations, and later, from 1950, they performed as the local choir from Roznava of the Csemadok (Cultural Society of Hungarian Workers in Czechoslovakia).

The golden age was under the leadership of the conductor, János Román, when they performed in several different cities. Since his conductorship, the glee cup has had its own uniform, cap and tie. The dress was black, the cap was also from black velvet with a hard peak and a glee club badge up front: a lyre in a golden laurel with three roses and a two crossed mining hammers in it. The tie was also made of black rep, tied to a strip of 5-6 cm wide, and then there was a gold tassel on the hanging part, which was called Petőfi-bow.

The black dress remained, but the tie and cap disappeared during the reorganization of the glee club, when the group began to work in the frameworks of Csemadok in 1950.

The choir has had a number of successful performances between 1950 and 1960, especially since 1952, when the mixed choir was formed on the initiative of conductor Ferenc Varga.

Gabriella Koleszár THE HISTORY OF THE MOUNTAIN HUT ON THE VOLOVEC (POZSÁLÓ) (1989-IG) Roznava Bana (Rozsnyóbánya) has had a rich cultural life, especially since 1948, thanks to the factory club operated by the ROH. The Bányász (Svk: Baník Eng: Miner) sports club, which was reorganized in 1945, also had a rich tradition. Initially, its teams were exceptional in football, wrestling (Greco-Roman) and table tennis.

The sports club later got renamed to Miner Athletic Club (Hun: Bányász Testnevelő Egyesület; Svk: Telovýchovná Jednota TJ Baník). There were several departments: football, basketball, table tennis, bodybuilding, light athletics, recreational physical education and a tourism group.

This essay focuses on the tourist group and the history of the mountain hut on the Volovec Mountain, on the traditions of climbing the Baračka cliff (Barátkő), which is in the easternmost corner of the Slovak Ore Mountains, which separates Spis (Szepes) from Gemer (Gömör) and is located north of Roznava: called Volovec (Pozsáló). Its highest peak is Baracka (Barátkő) with 1293 meters above sea level. Since it is the highest point in the neighborhood, it has a wonderful view from the top. Thus, it is possible to see Roznava and the Slovak Karst, the Slovak Ore Mountains, but in case of favorable weather we can also see the High Tatras, as well as the Kráľova hoľa (Királyhegy), the Levoca (Lőcse) Mountains and the Spis (Szepes) Castle. „The Pozsáló Mountains and Rock are among the most beautiful peaks in Slovakia. Upper Hungary, was not only know for the richness of ores, but the Tarn as well.” Every 32 to 33 years, always at the same time, the mountain opened up and from hidden sources water flew for 12 days.

According to the records, this phenomenon could be observed in 1780, 1813, 1894, 1897, 1905, and 1954. The location of the village of Cucma (Csucsom) also proves this, which was located on the right side of the narrow valley of the Drázus stream in the first half of the 20th century.

The history of the mountain hut on the Volovec dates back to the period after 1918, when the entire territory of Slovakia belonged to the Czechoslovak Republic. The political management of the city was taken over by the immigrants from the Czech Republic. The new inhabitants of the town loved nature, tourism, winter sports and skiing. On a Sunday in February, 1924, two employees of the post office of Rožňava, Jozef Baštýr and Václav Mazánek, set off to Volovec, and one of them turned out to be dead due to a tragic accident. A year later, two brothers, Ladislav and Vojtech Pástor, were also lost in the dense fog on the south side of Volovec, with skis on their feet. At this point, the rescue team organized by their parents became more successful, they found them in a highly cooled state, but just in time. After these incidents, the idea of building a tourist haven was raised to one of the sides of the Volovec. The decision was made at the general meeting of the Czechoslovak tourists’ club in 1933. Ján Horák was the largest investor in the building, so the hut was named after him first. The shelter was built on the south side of Volovec, at an altitude of 1150 meters, close to the sources, in the area of Cucma. The investment was funded by donations and loans. The new building was opened on December 17, 1933.

The house was later extended by further premises in 1935 and it was renamed to Volovec (Pozsáló). From 1938 Roznava belonged to Hungary following the Vienna Awards and the Hungarian army entered the city. The Baracka (Barátkő) became the highest peak in Hungary (for less than half a year until March 15, 1939). Hungarian soldiers began patrolling on the ridge of Volovec and the mountain hut was in the border area. Nevertheless, Hungarian tourists have been visiting it in this period as well, since the area has been one of the most beautiful excursion destinations of Hungary at that time.

In January 1939, the Upper Gömör Department of the Hungarian Tourist Association was founded in Roznava, which was managed by the Pozsáló (Volovec) mountain hut. At that time a meteorological station and accommodation was established in the building.

In February of 1940, the MTE (Hungarian Tourist Association) Club’s ski department organized a great event for the promotion of winter sports on the slopes of Volovec.

During the World War, the club of tourists gradually lost their membership; many fell on the battlefield, but tourism itself was also dangerous (tourists were seen as spies or partisans), so the club’s organization was shut down.

In 1942 Ján Lipták and his wife Maria became guardians of the hut. As the man died in 1952, the wife continued the caretaking activity until 1955. She was not left alone, her helper was her donkey, called Laci, walking 14 kilometers a week to Roznava and back. The animal died in January 1955, halfway on the way to the hut.

During the post-war period, the tourists arriving unorganized and members of the sports club of the Rožňava iron ore mine took care of the hut. Until the Roznava Miner Gymnastics Club (Hun: Rozsnyói Bányász Testedző Egylet; Svk: Telovýchovná Jednota Baník Rožňava) was formed in 1953, it did not actually have a permanent host.

After 1953, following the stabilization of the political situation Volovec became a venue for regular encounters for nature lovers. In the years 1955-65, organized tourists arrived as members of the hiking department of TJ Baník Rožňava, led by Ladislav Dittel.

In the 1960s, a ski race was held every year, called Volovec Grand Slalom.

When the rival sports club, TJ Elán Rožňava was formed in 1969, it became the most powerful and most active club in the district. On August 1, 1968, Anton Laščák and his wife took over the mountain hut on the Volovec. During their time of their guardianship, the service and cleanliness of the object was impeccably solved.

Since 1978, TJ Baník Rožňava has revived the activities of the oldest tourist organization in the city.

On Jan. 6, 1979, Jozef Laščák organized the first New Year’s Tour to Volovec.

After 13 years of Laščák’s guardianship, the shelter was taken over by Ľudovít Havran and his wife, Margita.

An important milestone in the history of Volovec was in the year 1982 when electrification was realized. The electrical wires were put underground. In addition to the hikers of the TJ Baník club, there were volunteers involved in the earthwork, Volovec-enthusiasts, tourists, including women. They said as a joke: „Máris neighbor has also applied already from Kökörcsin Street (from the Hungarian cartoon series” Mézga Family” [meaning that anyone could help]). Earthworks were completed in record time, in two days. The installation of electricity for the shelter was provided by The Iron Ore Mine of Roznava (Svk: Železorudné bane Rožňava; Hun: Rozsnyói Vasércbánya).

The ceremonial activation of the electricity happened on December 17, 1982.

To visit Volovec on New Year’s Eve has become a tradition since 1979 and has continued still to this day. In January 2018, the 40th class followed the tradition. Tourists meet at Baracka (Barátkő) on the first Saturday of January.

The Mining Museum of Roznava (Hun: Rozsnyói Bányász Múzeum; Svk: Banícke múzeum v Rožňave) has been organizing a New Year’s Day trip to Volovec for several years, when the staff of the institution hikes there together. Moreover, the tradition has started earlier, in 1977. In the early days, they went to Volovec for two days, but later, the trip lasted for only one day. Not only museum staff and their family members were involved in this tour, but also employees of other museums, and not only from Slovakia but also from Hungary.

In particular, the staff of Ottó Hermann Museum from Miskolc especially liked the winter tour to Volovec and they came every time. In recent years however, this tradition ceased to exist, but hopefully, it will soon be revived.

THE STILL CITY

KAMA

http://atjarokhe.hu/olvasnivalok/

SUITCASE TOURS-

http://kofferturak.hu/

http://kamaprojekt.hu/

FOLLOW ME, GUYS; CITY TOURS FOR BEGINNERS AND PROS I. II.

http://utanamsracok.blogspot.com/p/us-varosi-turak-kezdoknek-es-haladoknak.html

UTÁNAM SRÁCOK! FESTIVAL VI. http://utanamsracok.blogspot.com/

MISKOLC 2018