AsiaLIFE Cambodia October 2014

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102014 ISSUE94

BREAKING THE CYCLE

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note from the editor AsiaLIFE Group Group Editor-in-Chief / Director Cambodia: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia

Group Director Sales & Marketing / Director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialife.asia

Managing Editor Cambodia: Marissa Carruthers marissa@asialife.asia

Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh) oh@asialife.asia

Associate Editor: Joanna Mayhew

Art Director Cambodia: Joe Slater

Siem Reap: Caroline Major

Photographers: Charles Fox & Rudi Towiro

Marissa Carruthers

Distribution: Sorn Chandara 096 9999 351

As no stranger to AsiaLIFE Cambodia, having worked as associate editor for the last 18 months, it’s a great honour to be taking over as managing editor. It’s been a pleasure working on my first issue, and what an issue it is. With Cambodian prisons often facing scrutiny, our writer Joanna Mayhew takes an in depth look at the treatment of young people caught up in the system. As part of the cover feature, two former juvenile convicts tell of their chilling time behind bars, where they were kept in over-crowded cells, left malnourished and at times mistreated. Faced with little support on their release, many youngsters become caught in the cycle and often return to a life of crime. However, several NGOs are working with prisoners to break this cycle by providing a glimmer of hope to the incarcerated. This comes in the form of a series of courses equipping them with life-skills, education and employment opportunities. It’s thanks to these pioneering projects that many young ex-cons are able to leave prison and start their lives afresh. Their newly learnt skills have led to some successfully setting up their own business while others have been snapped up in the working world. Elsewhere in AsiaLIFE, former managing editor Ellie Dyer gets the low-down on pet grooming services in Phnom Penh. She visits Pet Grooming Cambodia in Toul Kork to get up close and personal to some of the cute pooches being pampered. I pull on my hiking boots and join newly formed group, Phnom Penh Hike, to spend a fun Sunday afternoon exploring Koh Krobey on the outskirts of the capital. With walks taking place every three weeks, it’s the perfect way to meet new people and discover parts of the capital you never knew existed. I also catch up with Cambodian artist Meas Sokhorn, who is once again using his work to paint a picture of modern day Cambodia. And with a swathe of all-youcan-eat joints in the capital, we give the run-down on some of the most popular, as well as dishing out a few tips on how to behave at the buffet table. So with plenty to get stuck into, enjoy the issue and we look forward to bringing you more entertaining stories in the future.

Printing: Sok Heng Printing House

Sales Manager Cambodia: Sorn Chantha chantha@asialife.asia sornchantha@yahoo.com

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6 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

FOR SALES ENQUIRIES: Chantha Sorn Tel: 012 576 878 chantha@asialife.asia

Sales Officer: Ven Kakada 087 622 269 Accountant: Seang Seiha 012 887 118

For advertising enquiries call Chantha on 012 576 878 (English/Khmer) or Kakada on 087 622 269 (Khmer). Special thanks to: Darren Gall, Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen, Paul Dodd, Gemma Mullen, SOS International, Rebecca LuriaPhillips, David Preece, Ryan Drewe Taylor and Cambodian Living Arts – for their contribution to this issue.

On the Cover Art Direction: Joe Slater Photography: Rudi Towiro AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © 360º Media.

Next time you're in Vietnam, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE or download it from www.asialifemagazine.com



102014 ISSUE94

front

14 Picks of the Month 16 Openings

getaway

44 Land of the Midnight Sun

food

46 Get Stuffed

20 Street Smart 24 Phnom Penh Calendar 26 Photo Essay 30 Q&A: Aimee Cheung

on the cover

32 Breaking the Cycle

storyboard

38 Meas Sokhorn 40 Animal Magic

49 L'Amboise

style & design

50 Behind the Design

back

56 Listings

42 Walk & Talk

38 8 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

48 Duplex

52 Plastic Fantastic

88 Phnom Penh Map 96 Pub Quiz

44 46

50



July 2014

News & Events Miss Tourism Launch

The hunt is on for Cambodia’s finest female to represent the country in the prestigious Miss Tourism International World Finals. This will be the second time Cambodia has entered the world-renowned beauty pageant, which aims to throw the spotlight on the tourist attractions and cultural quirks that make the world’s countries unique. Backed by the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, auditions for Miss Tourism International Cambodia will be held at NagaWorld Resort on Oct. 5 and 19. Candidates must be Cambodian, single, aged 18 to 25, be taller than 1.63m

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and no heavier than 55kg. All contestants must also have good moral character, according to the requirements. The winner will be picked at a prestigious event on Nov. 15. The winner will scoop an all-expenses paid trip for 22 days to Malaysia to represent Cambodia in the international finals on Dec. 31. Visit www. misstourismcambodia.com

Film Industry Boost

Cambodia’s TV and movie industry received a helping hand thanks to a $2 million grant from France’s development agency. The grant will further develop the Cambodia Film Commission


(CFC), a non-profit organisation dedicated to film professionals, and support the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts in creating a professional organisation that gathers all actors in the sector. Created in 2009 with support from the ministry, the CFC has placed Cambodia on the map as a host country for international shootings, with French director Regis Wargnier’s adaptation of François Bizot’s novel, The Gate, shot in Battambang at the beginning of 2014, as well as reality TV shows.

Australia Showcases Khmer Relics

Three of Cambodia’s iconic sculptures, dating as far back as the seventh century, have been unveiled at the National Gallery of Australia. The art is on loan from the National Museum of Cambodia and will be displayed for three years. Included in the collection is one of the oldest Buddhist sculptures found in the Kingdom – a seventh-century standing Buddha. The pieces were unveiled as part of a cultural relationship in place since the

early 1990s, when the Australian museum hosted its The Age of Angkor exhibition. DirectorGeneral of the Cambodian Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, Hab Touch, says, “The National Gallery of Australia and the National Museum of Cambodia have built a close connection across three decades. We look forward to further strengthening the collaboration into the future.”

Audi Zooms Into Capital

Premium German car brand Audi has started official operations in Cambodia after launching its first terminal in the capital. The luxury car manufacturer opened up the doors to its Monivong Boulevard showroom and workshop, offering a radically designed 2,200 sqm to cater for customers’ needs. “After two years of intense preparation work and the ground breaking ceremony last November, I am delighted to see Audi now delivering Vorsprung durch Technik in Cambodia,” says Martin Birkner – AUDI AG Director Region Overseas South East Asia, Taiwan, India.

Bottoms Up

The Kingdom has welcomed another international brand in the form of premium wine glassware company Plumm. And the arrival of the Australian-owned brand was toasted at an event attended by wine guru Matt Skinner. He says, “Plumm is glassware designed for living, not for keeping high up in a cupboard, not for wheeling out on special occasions.” AsiaLIFE Cambodia 11


August 2014

SR News & Events Pages Rooms & Café Opens

A quiet side road off Wat Bo in central Siem Reap is home to new café and boutique hotel, Pages Rooms & Café. Designed and owned by Asma architects, the 1960s building offers nine rooms and two apartments with kitchenettes. The clean lines and neutral shades inside are offset with pops of bright colour. The spacious café has a pared back, urban industrial feel with exposed concrete walls, transforming the site that formerly housed ACE Language School. The menu is mainly comprised of breakfast and brunch items. A self-proclaimed design hotel – it also has a design show room - the concept is "to create a

meeting point composed of both permanence and passage which provides an environment for conception and discovery."

take these sweet treats home if you give into temptation.

Rooftop Revelry

Sweet treats at Angkor Macaron

The opening of Angkor Macaron in September at the King’s Road complex will be sure to satisfy gourmands with a sweet-tooth. The Parisian pastry – not to be confused with the English macaroon - is a visual delight, consisting of a silky ganache filling sandwiched between two meringue cookies in a rainbow of colours. The French Chef at Angkor Macaron has taken inspiration from local tropical fruits to produce these rich delicacies, with creative rather

than traditional flavours that include watermelon, pineapple, durian, jackfruit, melon, tarot, passionfruit and longan. Only Cambodia-based natural ingredients are used – switching up the traditional almond base for Cambodian cashew nut. Available in gift boxes, it is easy

Promising live music, DJs, two bars and fine dining, Sky River rooftop bar, lounge and club is set to open on Oct. 24. Located at the top of Angkor Trade Centre, Sky River aims to provide an alternative and more exclusive establishment to unwind in, located just 100m away from Pub Street. An external lift delivers guests to the 3rd floor, home to a stage which will welcome a mix of local and international live acts every night, followed by DJs until closing. A staircase leads up to the 4th floor lounge, bar and restaurant, which will serve up French and Asian cuisine.



PICKS OF THE MONTH Dance: Kimchi’s Big Birthday Bash

Attend: Thunder & Lightning

The Kimchi boys are marking their third birthday in style as they welcome Vandetta to join them on stage. Since launching in 2012, expats Dan Beck, Bojan Lisac, Balazs Maar and Cynthia Herman have been shaking up the capital’s music scene with their blend of sounds that span the spectrum of electronic music. To mark their anniversary, they have teamed up with Singaporean, spacedout R&B performer Vandetta, AKA Vanessa Fernandez, for an evening of awesome entertainment. Beck says, “We’d like to say a big thanks to all the Kimchis for their help, support and dance moves over the last few years. It’s been emotional.” The birthday bash takes place at CodeRED on Saturday, Oct. 18, from 10pm.

Seasoned Cambodian choreographer Sophiline Cheam Shapiro returns with another groundbreaking production she plans to showcase on home turf. After taking her works to the international stage, from Hong Kong to New York and Venice, the dance champion wanted to be able to show Cambodians her award-winning shows. In June, A Bend in the River was performed across three, sell-out nights at Chaktomuk Hall. Now, a second performance, Thunder and Lightning, is set to wow audiences once again from Oct. 9 to 12. An updated concert production of sacred dance drama Ream Eyso and Moni Mekhala, it describes the origins of thunder and lightning and how it is believed to bring fertility to the land. The following week, the show will move onto Singapore’s Da:ns Festival. Tickets cost between $3 and $15 and can be reserved by emailing tickets@khmerarts.org.

Attend: Once Upon a Time... Delve deep into the Cambodian capital’s past, and explore the city’s present and future at the latest exhibition to open its doors at the French Institute. The ultimate aim is to raise awareness about the importance of maintaining the capital’s architectural heritage through a series of seminars, film screenings and exhibitions that run until Nov. 9. The main exhibit is a series of historical material provided by the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts' Heritage Mission. This looks back at Phnom Penh’s development from the 15th century until the 1970s. The exhibition is the culmination of years of research. The exhibit will also feature the institute’s annual student architecture competition, which encourages innovative ideas on how to breathe new life into shop-houses, which have been a popular feature in the city since the late 18th century.

Eat: Da Sandro First Anniversary Since launching a year ago, Da Sandro has proved popular, pulling in a healthy crowd to taste the creative range of paninis and other Italian delights. An equal hit has come in the form of the eatery’s monthly Aperitivo All Italiana evening, where visitors can sample free Italian tapas while sipping on fine wine and other a la carte drinks. To mark the special occasion, owner Chiara De Lucia has pledged to create a new menu with delightful desserts on hand to cater for those with a sweettooth. The event takes place on Thursday, Oct. 9, from 6pm to 9pm.

Download: Goat Simulator Those in recovery from their Angry Bird addiction had better watch out because a new game has hit the market. Prepare for many wasted hours ahead, as Goat Simulator went viral within hours of its release for smartphones and tablets in mid-September. Giving gamers the chance to steer a goat around a small town, Goat Simulator harks back to the earlier Tony Hawke skateboarding games – only it’s heaps more fun. Here, you can use your goat to cause chaos by head butting objects out of the way, ramming into people and generally wreaking havoc.

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IVF Babies The Kingdom gears up to give IVF treatment as the country’s first specialised centre, Fertility Clinic Cambodia, opens its doors. Scots Say No The United Kingdom remains united, for now, with 55 percent of Scottish voters saying no to independence. Daring Designers Phnom Penh proves itself in the fashion stakes when a string of Cambodia-based designers showcased their styles on the catwalk for Phnom Penh Designers’ Week. Good Mosquitoes Brazilian researchers release thousands of mosquitoes infected with a bacteria that suppresses Dengue fever. They hope the insects will breed and become the majority, reducing cases of the disease. Mars Mission India becomes the fourth nation to send a satellite into orbit around Mars with Mangalyaan jetting off to explore the Red Planet’s atmosphere.

GOING UP GOING DOWN Khmer Rouge Trials Evidentiary hearings against former Khmer Rouge leaders Khieu Samphan and Nuon Chea to start on Oct. 17 in Case 002/02. Refugee Deal Plans to redirect refugees seeking asylum in Australia to Cambodia formalised when a pact between the two governments was signed. Slow Lane Smartphone addicts who dog the pavements while tapping on their gadgets in the Chinese city of Chongqing are allocated their own designated walking lane. Bedgate Days after the release of the iPhone 6 and iPhone 6 Plus, Apple is inundated with complaints that the device bends in ways it’s not supposed to. Shooting rise FBI study reveals the number of people targeted in US mass shootings has increased dramatically in recent years. Between 2000 and 2013, 480 were killed and 557 wounded in 160 incidents.

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OPENINGS CAMBODIA HOSPITALITY

TEAV BOUTIQUE HOTEL AND SPA

Teav hotel has opened its second location in Tonle Bassac. Named after a traditional tale’s heroine and a term given to high-ranking 16th century Khmer women, it boasts 19 spacious rooms and a pool, restaurant, spa, and sky bar overlooking the iconic White Building. Design melds the traditional and modern, with grey floors cleanly accented with reds and blacks. A giant wheel functions as a wall, iron-wrought archways resemble ox cart coverings, and painted images of daily Cambodian life decorate walls. “We want to bring Khmer culture to foreigners, who can learn from the design,” says director and co-owner Sok Samath. In October, clients— who are greeted with kromas and frangipani bracelets—enjoy a 50 percent discount on rooms (normally priced $110-168) and 15% on massages ($15-20). 14, Street 310, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 981 818. Open daily from 10am to 10pm.

DELUXE DÉCOR

INDULGENCE INTERIORS Home and office design hits a new high at Indulgence Interiors. The store offers unique—and often in-house designed—furnishings in refreshing splashes of colour, using exotic prints mainly from recycled materials. Fabrics are limited edition and eclectic tastes can be met in offerings of rugs, placemats, pendant lights, sofas, beds, and wall hangings. “It’s for anyone looking for colour to spice up their room. We want to personalise the living style,” says design director Erik Cheang. Prices range, from homemade potpourri ($7) and napkin sets ($15) to printed or embroidered pillows ($20-$65) and high-end table sets ($1500). “If you find something in showroom you like,” says Cheang. “You better hurry up.” 23A, Street 302, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 637 3666. Open daily from 9am to 6pm.

NATURALLY PAMPERED Near the city’s newest hub of frenzied activity at Aeon Mall and Koh Pich, an oasis of calm can be found at the new Waterlily Spa. Clients will feel like royalty in rich purple and lilac interiors with high ceilings, sheer drapes, purple-accented light covers, and local natural touches like palm tree decorations made from sugar palm leaves and water hyacinth furniture. Clients enjoy pandan-leaf tea before massage treatments such as Swedish ($18-32) and traditional Khmer ($12-22), as well as body treatments featuring Jasmine rice scrubs ($25) and Aloe Vera wraps ($25). Cambodian owner Sreysophea Touch, who also co-owns Vego salad bar, says staff have had long-term training on massage quality and promoting health. She adds, “I want customers to feel relaxed after the stress of the day.” N42 Spean Anthernou, Phnom Penh. Tel: 012 981 281. Open daily from 10am to 10pm.

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WATERLILY SPA


SERENITY FOUND

SOKKHAK BOUTIQUE HOTEL AND RESORT

Deriving its name from the Sanskrit word for tranquillity, the newly opened Sokkhak Boutique Hotel offers an oasis in Siem Reap. Tastefully decorated rooms mix contemporary and Asian styles and are set against private tropical gardens and a saltwater pool. Its 12 rooms range from home suites ($150) in a traditional Khmer wooden house featuring private balconies and outdoor gardens to deluxe ($95-$105) and classic ($85) rooms. Khmer traditional massages ($36-$46) and four hands massages ($44-$54) add to the serenity, and the restaurant serves up traditional dishes such as fish amok and crispy rice with natang, topped off with a sticky rice and taro dessert. Most room bookings include discounts on the hotel’s sister properties, Sokkhak Spa and Chanrey Tree traditional Khmer restaurant. Kok Chork village, Siem Reap. Tel: 063 765 697.

ESCALATED LIVING

SILVERTOWN APARTMENTS With the opening of Silvertown Apartments, city living has been elevated to a whole new level. The 15-floor building offers 110 fully furnished units including studios and two- and three-bedroom apartments ($1,200-$3,000). Living is in the details, and it shows in the modern apartments, decked out with bamboo flooring, stone-tile bathrooms, and sleek granite counters. Large windows, flat-screen televisions and leather couches add to the luxury. “A person can bring in their luggage, go to work, and we take care of the rest,” says general manager Jovany Antonio. Want a cappuccino delivered first thing in the morning? No problem, thanks to an in-house coffee bar and housekeeping services. The building also has a rooftop infinity pool and fitness centre with a view, and seeks eco-friendliness with LED lights, dual-pane glass, and an in-unit recycling system. 251, Street 63, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 959 959.

GET INKED

PHNOM PENH TATTOO

Artists and tat enthusiasts alike will be stoked by the newest shop in town to leave an impression, Phnom Penh Tattoo. Located in the Lazy Gecko guesthouse and café, is one of the country’s only Western-owned tattoo shops, offering fully custom work with a wide range of design, high-quality sterilisation processes and improved tattoo application. “We try to give original pieces, with every piece designed for the person,” says artist Leo Martinez. “If you can count your tattoos, you don’t have enough.” Martinez and co-owner Mark Guru have a combined 35 years’ experience tattooing. Their cozy, blue-walled studio is accented by black furniture and lined with tattoo artwork and colourful ink, imported from the US. Prices range from $60-$100 per hour. 1D, Street 258, Phnom Penh. Tel: 012 218 652. Open Monday to Saturday, from 11am to 8pm.

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FINE DINING

LA MAISON DE L’ENTRECÔTE & BORDEAUX VILLAGE If you’re looking for a tasty steak with homemade sauce famously called entrecote in France, then you need look no further than La Maison De L’Entrecôte. Here diners can rest in the quiet and romantic atmosphere that is furnished with brown wooden seats and bare brick walls. This eatery offers both French and Khmer cuisine, but specialises in entrecôte steak at a reasonable price ($16 min for steak). The drinks range from smoothies and cocktails (from $4.50). While enjoying the steak, diners shouldn’t miss the taste of the famous red wine and champagne, which ranges from $10 to $62 and is imported from Bordeaux. “Bordeaux is the fourth most famous wine in France and globally so we trust in its quality,” says owner Chea Bunchim. 6, Street 352, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 6666 159, Open daily from 10am to 11pm.

CREATIVE LEARNING Wanting to provide mums with a place to send their children while they do some shopping was the idea behind Li Daniel’s Advance Learning Academy, which is based on the 3rd floor of AEON Mall. Courses run over five and 10 weeks and include INDUK taekwondo, robotics, ballet, zumba, pilates, yoga and Caribbean hips, which are designed smartly and flexibly for both kids and adults. ALA offers more than 10 wide and air-conditioner classrooms filled with the creative decoration following each category to make students feel fresh and better. Drinks and other refreshments are also available. “We believe that learning is a life long journey and our programs will cater to the needs of our growing society,” Li says, adding he warmly welcomes those who want to learn something different. Level 3 Aeon Mall, Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 901 188, Open weekdays from 9am to 9pm, and weekends from 9am to 8pm.

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ADVANCE LEARNING ACADEMY



STREET SMART STREET 63

In rapidly developing Phnom Penh, street scenes can change at breakneck pace. But one thoroughfare that has transformed more than most in recent years is Street 63. An explosion of development has seen restaurants, cafés and small shops open on the road, which leads from the architectural lines of Central Market, through the heartland of BKK1 to Mao Tse Toung Boulevard and beyond. This month, AsiaLIFE looks at some of its standout spots.

P COCONUTS, NEAR SIHANOUK BOULEVARD

Coconut water seems to be the drink de jour in Hollywood, with enthusiasts going crazy for its health benefits. But its refreshing properties are old news in Cambodia, where coconut sellers walk the streets pulling carts of ripe green nuts. Street 63, near Sihanouk Boulevard, is a centre for anyone who goes loco for coconuts. Pile after pile of huge nuts line the street, with machetewielding sellers whipping off the hard husks at lightning speed.

P THE CHOCOLATE SHOP NEAR STREET 334

Sweet-toothed shoppers can witness chocolates being made before their eyes on production days at The Chocolate Shop, which has branches on Street 240 and Aeon Mall alongside its Street 63 store. Try a concoction that would make Willy Wonka proud: the best-selling Kampot pepper chocolate in both milk and dark versions. A sweeter and creamier treat comes in the form of a white kaffir lime leaf choc. Most individual chocolates are sold at $6 per 100g and a chocolate bar is priced at around $3 to $3.50. Chocoholics can even request to take part in a short, fun workshop in which they can produce their own pralines. Open daily from 8am to 8pm.

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P DISPLAY NEAR STREET 288

Quirky household items and cute kitchenware are amongst the goodies offered up at DisPlay. The stylish interior decoration shop features a cornucopia of eclectic goods – from smaller items such as photo-frames to larger scale clothing racks and tables – inside a fresh, modernist store with a beautiful pitched roof. Look out for the geometric patterned cushions and the selection of statement furniture, with eye-catching contemporary tables and chairs. The store opens from 9.30am to 7.30pm.

P LOST ‘N’ FOUND VINTAGE STORE NEAR STREET 334

Racks of vintage clothing line this treasure trove, where handpicked second-hand clothes have been lovingly restored. Along with an excellent selection of clothing – look out for the handy labels detailing the materials used – the store also features a wide selection of bags, shoes and accessories. With items from a variety of eras and styles at shoppers’ disposal, it’s easy to stand out from the crowd and source an individual look.

P THE KIMCHE AND SIDE DISH NEAR STREET 310

Think Korean cuisine and kimchi will no doubt spring to mind. According to the Korea Tourism Organisation, the fermented dish historically played a role in Korean diets during cold winters, and typically consists of salted cabbage or white radish mixed with red pepper powder, garlic, ginger and other ingredients. With Cambodia’s thriving South Korean community, Phnom Penh residents don’t have to look far for its mouth-tingling kick. The Kimche and Side Dish is a haven for kimchi lovers, with jar after jar of the pickled condiment displayed at the shop.

P KURATA PEPPER NEAR STREET 322

Cambodia is known for its quality pepper, but Kurata Pepper is a company with a difference. The brand has been growing the fragrant spice not in Kampot, but near the Cardamom Mountains in Koh Kong province, since 1997. With organic certification from the Cambodian Organic Agriculture Association, its Phnom Penh outlet has knowledgeable staff and sells a variety of produce alongside refreshing white, aromatic red and fruity black peppercorns. For something new, try the delicious pickled green peppercorns, brined in a mixture of palm sugar and vinegar. Open from 8am to 7pm.

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Have an event coming up? Send information and dates to ellie@asialife.asia

CALENDAR ALL MONTH

Maison Saint Tropez hosts Russian cabaret show NEVA STAR every week, Wednesday through Sunday nights, 9 pm until late. NEVA STAR show-ballet has been performed in Europe, Russia, and the United States and has now come to Asia to showcase the beauty of Russian performance.

OCT

Sophiline Arts Ensemble presents performance series, Thunder and Lightning. The updated concert production of an ancient dance drama describes the origin of thunder and lighting. Performance runs at Chaktomuk Hall; tickets are $3$15. Reservations via tickets@ khmerarts.org.

OCT

ShowBox’s latest exhibition, Women, features work from several upcoming Khmer artists. The Street 11 exhibition celebrates women who have influenced, brought change and developed humanity. Free wine and finger food. From 7pm.

OCT

Grand opening of Maison Kayser to celebrate the new café and restaurant in AEON Mall and bakery shop at White Mansion. Famous French baker and food writer, Eric Kayser, will attend the event at AEON Mall (Lively Plaza), featuring a live demonstration, food tasting, and workshop.

0912

Cambodian artist, Meas Sokhorn’s latest work, Inverted Sewer, runs at Java Cafe on Sihanouk Boulevard until Nov. 16.

OCT

Get free blood pressure and blood sugar check-ups at Western Pharmacy, D3 Street 169, from 10am to 7.30pm daily.

OCT

Ladies night at Qba, Cambodiana Hotel, with live band 17 Crush to dance the night away. Buy one get one free on all drinks for ladies. Every Thursday.

OCT

Phnom Penh Community College launches an evening series of weekly Kundalini meditation classes. Ideal for beginner or intermediate levels. Kundalini meditation is a fast, intense and thorough way to break ingrained patterns in the bodymind that keep one imprisoned in the past and to experience energy and freedom. $100 for 10 sessions.

0105 02 03

16 18

Get a taste of the circus when the big top comes to town. Tête d’enfant is bringing its modern circus show Me, Myself and Us, to the National Circus, in front of the National Assembly, from 6.30pm. Tickets are $4 and $2 for those aged under 25.

OCT

0519 OCT

09

Auditions to find the next Miss International Tourism Cambodia take place at NagaWorld Resort throughout the day. Visit www. misstourism cambodia.com. Da Sandro Panini Bar is celebrating its first anniversary at its monthly Aperitivo All Italiana evening. With a whole new range of delicious free bites to enjoy alongside a la carte menu drinks, the event takes place from 6pm to 9pm.

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Budding DJs can spin alongside seasoned spinners at Show Box’s Beats in the Beer Garden event. Free beer for those who carry out a set. From 5pm to 11pm.

OCT

2325

Oktoberfest kicks off at Hotel Cambodiana, with three nights full of music, entertainment, games, German food, and, of course, beer. From 6pm. $21 entry, including $10 worth of food and drink coupons.


EVERY MONDAY

Mad Monday at The Empire, 6pm • Yoga at Yoga Phnom Penh. Classes at 5.45am, 8.15am, 12.15pm and 6pm. See yogaphnompenh.com • Beginners level 2 salsa class ($8 dropin) at The Groove with a party from 9pm • Margarita Mondays at Riverhouse Lounge from 7pm until late • Thai chef takes over La Coupole at Sofitel Phnom Penh from 6pm ($30 per adult)

EVERY TUESDAY

Yoga at Yoga Phnom Penh. Classes at 8am, 12.15pm and 6pm. • Swing dancing at Doors with lindy-hop specialist Janice Wilson from 7pm. Classes are $3 or $25 for 10 lessons • Latino Time at Cabaret on Street 154 at 6.30pm • Two for 2-sday at Riverhouse.

EVERY WEDNESDAY

SIN at CodeRED hosted by Kanha Paula & Angie • Trivia in the garden at The Willow, $2 entry and 7.30pm start • Acoustic music at Kep’s Sailing Club from 6pm to 9pm

EVERY THURSDAY

Art House Sessions at 8.30pm at The Flicks Community Movie House. Enjoy the secret treasures of the big screen for $3.50 • Steak Night at The Empire • Movie nights on the beach at Kep’s Sailing Club from 7pm • All About Jazz at Cabaret from 7pm, wine and beer happy hour from 5.30pm to 7.30pm • Ladies night at CodeRED (group of 5 ladies recieve one free bottle of Stoli vodka) • High Heels party at Riverhouse with DJ Tam and male models • Yoga Phnom Penh: classes include 8am ashtanga, 12.15pm slow flo and 6.30pm fly yoga • Italian night at Willow Boutique Hotel from 6pm. A choice of pastas, pizza breads, desserts and carafe of wine. All $3.50.

EVERY FRIDAY

Seafood Haven at Korean Grill restaurant, NagaWorld, from 5.30pm to 10pm. $20 per person excluding beer, $30 per person including free flow draft beer. Tel: 023 22 88 22, www.nagaworld.com • Rhythm sessions at Doors from 9.30pm • An evening of music with Sylvie and Senastien Jazz Acoustic at Knai Bang Chatt in Kep, from 5pm to 9pm.

EVERY SATURDAY

Cine Saturday at the Bophana Center, 64 Street 200, at 4pm • Art classes for children and adults at Romeet Gallery on Street 178, costing $8.50 per session or $65 for 10. Register interest with Sreymao at romeetgallery@ gmail.com or by calling 077 55 07 59 •Yoga Phnom Penh. Mysore ashtanga 7am, vinyasa flow 10am. • An evening of music with Sylvie and Senastien Jazz Acoustic at Knai Bang Chatt in Kep, from 5pm to 9pm.

EVERY SUNDAY

Escape at the InterContinental Hotel’s Regency Café from 11.30am to 3pm. Free-flow wine at $36 plus taxes per person • Morning meditation with Beth Goldring, a zen Buddhist nun teacher, all religions welcome. yogaphnompenh.com • Phnom Penh Hash House Harriers’ run. Meet at 2.15pm at the railway station • Sunday night chapel at CodeRED with cabaret dancers, shows, DJs and more.

EVERY DAY

Daily four-hour photography tours with Michael Klinkhamer. Starts at FCC, 363 Sisowath Quay, at 1.30pm. $35 per person (for groups of less than four people add $10pp). Call 060 873 847 or visit klinkphoto.com.

EVERY MONDAY TO SATURDAY

Market fresh dinner buffet at NagaWorld from 5.30pm to 9.30pm, adults $28 or $38 with free flow beers, house wines and juices.

EVERY WEEKEND

Fishing trips on the Tonle Sap river from 3.30pm to 6.30pm, email fishingboattrip@yahoo.com • Kids Sessions at 2pm at The Flicks Community Movie House. $3.50 for adults, $2 for under 18 • Weekend brunch at Public House on Street 240½, from 10.30am to 2pm. $25 per person including bellinis or bloody Marys, $15 per person if you’re on the wagon. Book in advance: 017 770 754.

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PHOTO ESSAY BANTEAY PRIEB In March, photographer Rudi Towiro visited Banteay Prieb, a training centre and home for people with disabilities that sits on the outskirts of Phnom Penh. During the Khmer Rouge regime, the land housed a factory, a prison and later was the site of one of many killing fields. It was also used to train carrier pigeons – messengers of war. Transforming the site into a vocational training centre for people with disabilities, the pioneers of the Jesuit Service Cambodia chose the dove to represent the centre as a symbol of renewed peace. Banteay Prieb offers six vocational training courses: electronics, mechanics, agriculture, sewing, shoemaking and sculpture. There are additional lessons on human rights, social issues, and future planning. As some students who come to the centre are in need of literacy and numeracy training, an intensive 3-month preparatory course is also available for those students prior to undertaking vocational programs. For further information, visit: www.banteayprieb.org

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PHOTO ESSAY BANTEAY PRIEB

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Aimee Cheung Tell me about your organisation. Aziza’s Place is an educational learning centre for underprivileged children. We provide them with education and three meals a day. We provide classes in English, computing, art, maths, karate, Khmer, and support [them] to go to school. We also provide outreach to their families. How did you get involved? I used to be a management consultant in London. I wanted a change and to feel a bit more alive. In the corporate environment, you feel so far removed from things that were happening not very far away. And then you come here and you’re much closer, you see it first-hand. Because of that you feel more empowered to do something. I’ve always done well in small companies because you’re able to make a larger impact. That’s what drew me to Aziza’s Place. The impact is proportionally larger. Who are your clients? Over half of the [children’s families] work at the Boeung Choeung Ek dumpsite, near The Killing Fields. It’s basically all of the city’s trash. There are mountains of it—two to three stories high. The environment is toxic. The fumes are really bad for your health. They step on things at risk of giving them disease; there are dirty syringes. It’s a terrible environment for anyone to work in, let alone children. They collect recyclable items, like plastic bottles, aluminum cans, copper, paper, and sell it on to a recycla-

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Mobile coffee carts are a Phnom Penh trend, but this month one makes its debut for a cause: employing former dumpsite pickers and educating people on the effects of their rubbish. Writer Joanna Mayhew gets the dirt from Aimee Cheung, Director of Development at NGO Aziza’s Place, who is tackling the heaping problem. Photography by Charles Fox.

ble goods buyer, [who] sells it on to Vietnam. They typically earn up to $5 a day. It’s very much a day-to-day living existence.

this will provide them with an equal chance to show that they’re not, they just haven’t had the same opportunities.

What is the new project? While we’re supporting the children at Aziza’s Place, their family circumstances are largely unchanged. So the aim of the social business is to create employment initially for the families. The idea is a mobile coffee cart business; we’re proposing to sell coffee from a tuk tuk and offer customers a discount (500 riel) when they give in an empty plastic bottle or aluminum drink can. We will collect [recyclables] like the mums used to, and the money they get in return will be their salary bonus. [We’re starting at] the end of October, [selling] iced coffee, lime green tea, lime ginger tea, and banana flower noodle salads.

What makes it unique? Food and beverage will always be competitive, so we’ve made a concerted effort to be more creative. We’re going to be selling it from a solar-powered tuk tuk. We have no carbon emissions and no carbon footprint. We’ll be using paper-based products where we can, paper cups and paper boxes. We’re using local Cambodian coffee. It’s all part of our messaging of being environmentally friendly and thinking more about our actions.

What’s the message behind it? The idea is to make [customers] realise their garbage does have value, and when they throw [it] away and mix it with organic garbage it does have an impact on the community. [In the West], recycling is for the environment because we’re conscious of the damage it’s doing, whereas recycling here is purely financial. We’re trying to bring those thoughts together and say, yes, it brings an income, but there’s also another benefit of being mindful about the rubbish you generate. I hate that people perceive [those] who work on the dumpsite as negative members of society. I’m hoping

What financial difference will be made? [The mothers] could easily double their income. We want to increase the comfort in their life. In their previous job they worked every day, for as long as they could. We’ll be open six days a week, and the seventh day allows them time with their family [to] rest and recuperate. I’d love to create a micro-franchising business where we allow the mums to be their own boss. Any money we make we’ll plough back into our community outreach program. Why are coffee carts so popular? Mobile coffee is appealing to businesses because it’s scalable. The risks are lower, you don’t have to pay rent and buy property. Also, now there’s a huge younger generation who

are constantly on the move. They’re on their motorbikes and they need stuff on the go. Take-away food and drinks are very much in demand. Why is social business important in Cambodia? This is a great place for social businesses because many people have a social conscience [and] tourism is becoming more socially conscientious. I can see this huge gap in social classes, and it’s only widening. Because of the gap, there’s this kind of middle area where social businesses sit, which bridge the gap between the classes. I’m hoping this is what the coffee cart will do. It gives our mothers a voice to speak out to the public about their experiences, even giving advice of when you put the rubbish outside, it’s great if you can split [recyclables] into a different bag. What is your hope for it? There will always be plastic being generated. I’m not going to save Cambodia from this. I’m not going to save the planet with this. This is me playing my part to do what I can and using what’s around me, leveraging the community’s experience. I’d love to be able to create jobs in a kinder environment for them. There are loads of social businesses here, but I think the concept is very unique. I’m hoping it’ll be interesting for people to support on a regular basis. Everyone needs coffee and noodles.


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BREAKING THE CYCLE

WHILE CAMBODIA’S TEENAGE PRISONERS FACE A HARD TIME IN JAIL, ORGANISATIONS ARE WORKING TO RAISE THE BAR FOR THEIR FUTURES. WRITER JOANNA MAYHEW FINDS OUT WHAT IT TAKES TO MAKE A TRANSITION TO LIFE OUTSIDE, WITH PHOTOGRAPHY BY RUDI TOWIRO. SOME NAMES HAVE BEEN CHANGED.

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okha* supports a large rusted and broken television with his left tattooed arm, and peers at its electronic insides. The circuit board and a mess of wires spill out of the back and across a worn wooden table scattered with scissors and electrical tape. With his other hand, the 21-year-old carefully flips the electricity on and off and nudges one of the wires with a worn screwdriver. Next to him, his boss points to the pieces and speaks softly, reminding him of the steps involved in fixing the screen. In the modest, tin-roofed electronic repair shop, Sokha resembles any young Cambodian apprentice. He works full days, lives at home, hangs out with his girlfriend and follows the football scores. But his routine could not be in greater contrast to his life just two months ago. Each part 32 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

is a luxury he now savours after spending four years in prison. Sokha looks too young to have spent so many years behind bars. He smiles shyly as he sits down to tell his story, but his large eyes appear burdened and a nearby funeral unwittingly provides a soundtrack of mournful songs. At age 17, Sokha was arrested for a crime which he maintains he never committed, after becoming part of a group with a history of theft and drugs. He was accused of breaking into a home and, with no previous convictions, put behind bars. It was only after being given his sentence that reality started to sink in. He says, “I just got stuck. I couldn’t think straight.”

OUTNUMBERED

Sokha’s story is common among the prison population, which currently has 322

convicts aged between 14 and 18, according to human rights organisation Licadho. Without a separate juvenile justice system, young people are tried alongside the 14,671 adults who have been imprisoned. Of youths currently in jail, Licadho says only 24 percent have been convicted, with the remaining majority awaiting trial or final judgment Life in Cambodia’s prisons is typically characterised by cramped quarters, limited time out of cells, disease, in-fighting, sanitation issues, malnutrition and corruption, Licadho claims. Prisoners can face abuse from guards as well as fellow inmates, according to the organisation’s 2014 Torture and Ill-Treatment report, written in response to more than 500 documented allegations of torture or illtreatment since 2008. “If you’re one of the poorest, one of the weakest, you’re much more




“Young people in prison are typically from poor backgrounds or have lived on the streets, used drugs, or stolen to make ends meet.”

likely to be subjected to such treatment, [especially] if you’re young,” says Sharon Critoph, prison consultant for Licadho. “There’s certainly a pecking order. [Young people] are more vulnerable to abuse,” adds Rachel Watkins, programme development officer for This Life Cambodia, an NGO working with young offenders. “That leads to other challenges in regards to access to food, healthcare. They’re always at the bottom of the pile.” However, Phay Siphan, Council of Ministers’ spokesman, says the Cambodian government is working hard to improve both the justice system and standards at prison facilities, as well as curb abuse of prisoners. Outnumbered, youngsters are among the most vulnerable prisoners. They can be highly influenced by their surroundings, particularly psychologically. “Just the pure idea of being incarcerated and the impacts it can have on them long term, it’s vast,” says Watkins. Monophal*, now 21, entered prison at age 16 for stealing and remained there for almost five years. He was terrified when police stormed his family’s house one night and as a result was held for three days before being sent to six months of pre-trial detention. Once incarcerated, he shared a small room with 25 others, where he constantly worried about food, as there was not enough to go around.

Upon release, he claims he was pale with swollen limbs. As Monophal relives his stay, his eyes brim with tears and his small hands fidget. Often stuck in an overcrowded cell, he was at times left sick from the lack of fresh air and sunlight. “I felt very depressed. It was very difficult to live,” he says. “But I had no choice.” Young people in prison are typically from poor backgrounds or have lived on the streets, used drugs, or stolen to make ends meet, say experts at Friends International, an NGO targeting at-risk children. “Many of them haven’t been living within the conventional realms of society for a long time,” adds Charlotte Arno, the NGO's programme advisor. They can get “stuck” in the system, emerging with limited opportunities, often becoming caught up in the cycle of crime, meaning reoffending is a common problem, Arno explains. “You’re getting criminalised,” adds Critoph. “It’s not specific to Cambodia, but if you’re a kid in prison, you’re quite likely to reoffend.”

NEW BEGINNINGS

Addressing the cycle of reoffending is the aim of several organisations. This is being achieved through pioneering programmes aimed at both keeping teenagers out of prison and, for those who remain behind bars, maintaining their connections to the outside

world and preparing them to successfully re-enter it. In Siem Reap, Friends works with police stations to establish systems where children who are picked up for minor crimes — or for living on the streets — are passed into its care instead of sent to prison. Whether crimes are considered minor is determined on an individual basis by police, but include stealing, fighting, drug use and vandalism. Referred youths are placed into temporary homes, education programmes, vocational training centres or reintegrated into their families. However, they can leave any of the services offered of their own accord at any time. “Some would say we have a responsibility to keep kids until they are on the right track. But they’re not going from one prison to the other; they have to want to be there,” says Arno. In 2013, police referred 76 youths, up from 38 the previous year. It is unclear whether this means more teenagers are committing crimes or that the programme is working. “The goal is to have fewer youth imprisoned, and to work with the authorities on sustainable solutions,” Arno comments. Chhom Somban, commune police chief for Kok Chork in Siem Reap, has worked with Friends on the programme since 2009. Sitting behind a large desk with rifles lining a nearby wall, he explains that participating police are trained on child rights and the benefits of providing

youngsters with opportunities away from a life of crime. Previously based in the criminal unit, he says children would often be arrested and held in cells before being sent directly to court or jail. “I didn’t know what to do with them,” he says. But the programme has changed his approach. “Now I realise we can’t compare children with adults. Children should be sent to NGOs to provide a better service than sending them to jail. We don’t want more children [in] court.”

GETTING TO WORK

For those in prison, time is often marked by isolation and boredom while they miss out on education and job training. Monophal describes boredom as the most trying aspect of his sentence, until a muchneeded antidote came in the form of a life skills course. Along with non-formal education, Friends also offers weekly life skills sessions in prison featuring videos and discussions on issues relevant to young prisoners, such as hygiene, drug use, sexual health, stress and anger management, and child abuse and how to report it. Five years ago, Monophal was arrested for stealing a phone with friends. From a poor town where rice farming is the main livelihood, he says he went along with the crime “without thinking carefully” because, as teenagers seeking entertainment, they wanted money to go to karaoke. AsiaLIFE Cambodia 35


“THE CORRECTION HOUSE IS NOT TO PUNISH PEOPLE. WE PREPARE THEM TO INTEGRATE INTO SOCIETY AS GOOD PEOPLE.”

After participating in the course, Monophal says he is now able to better assess situations. “Before I take a step, I need to think about what the risk is. Now I analyse a lot.” And to provide future employment options for convicts, This Life Cambodia offers vocational training in motor mechanics and electronics to 20 students yearly in each of the two prisons they work in. Students are selected based on sentence length and financial need, and also receive teaching on running a business. So far, 37 students have completed these courses, held in tin-roofed sheds on the prisons’ outskirts. “I thought prison was a waste of my time; I wasn’t doing anything,” says Sokha, who started attending the electronic repair course last year. “But after [joining] the class, I was happy to spend time learning a skill I can make a living from.” Navigating young people’s release from prison and return to normal life is one of the most challenging aspects of supporting juvenile convicts. On release, many face discrimination and severed relationships. “If you’ve been in prison, you start at the lowest point if you’re accepted back to the community,” says Anne Scharrenbroich, prison project consultant for Licadho. This Life Cambodia tries to curb this by covering travel expenses for relatives to visit juveniles monthly in prison. 36 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

This has been a hit, with 95 percent of relatives, who would otherwise not be able to afford it, snapping up the opportunity. “It’s a huge benefit to young people,” says Watkins. “If [they] know they will be welcomed back into their community without additional discrimination, it really drives them to want to prove themselves.” Monophal says visits from his mother and sister threw him a lifeline while he struggled with life inside. “They gave me encouragement, and told me I need to be patient. They said four years is actually short, and that I would be released soon.” Both Friends and This Life Cambodia facilitate reunions between estranged relatives through counselling, and provide education in their communities to build understanding. “[We want to] make them more accepting and understand it doesn’t mean you’re a bad kid forever because you messed up one time,” says Arno. Before release, young offenders are helped with short- and long-term plans, covering everything from who will pick them up from prison to employment. They are also given financial funding to start their own small businesses and offered accommodation and additional vocational training once they leave. Post-release, both groups follow up with ex-prisoners to ensure they are coping with their new lives on the outside.

This Life Cambodia also follows the reoffending rate of their participants. To date, none of their graduates have reoffended, but the organisation acknowledges that as numbers grow this will become harder to track.

THE ROAD AHEAD

Teenagers currently in prison remain bound to the fragile judicial system, which continues to be defined by challenges and halting progress. But as the Cambodian government continues to work to improve the system, prisons and treatment of prisoners are constantly improving Siphan claims. “We educate them to treat everybody fairly. We hope [this will] improve the quality of the people living there,” he says. “The correction house is not to punish people. [We] prepare them to integrate into society as good people; we bring up the virtue and the quality of life.” This year, the government also passed the long-awaited juvenile justice law after more than a decade of drafting. It covers issues from alternative sentencing and diversionary measures to treatment of juveniles. Its passage is “very significant,” says Licado prison consultant Critoph, but the organisation raised concerns that it does not adequately address young female prisoners (currently 14), and warns that the law should be implemented with speed. The apparent success of

youth-focused programmes is also promising. Monophal just passed his one-year anniversary of release. After spending the initial months receiving additional vocational training, he now runs his own motor repair business, saving $200 monthly. He shares his experiences in prison with children in his community to warn them against the same fate. “I’m very happy with my life at the moment, it’s not like before” he says. “Without support, my life would have been much more difficult.” When Sokha was released, he was welcomed back by his community. He distanced himself from his previous gang and has made new friends. “I feel good now,” he says. “I have full freedom to do anything.” With this freedom, he plans to open his own shop. For now, at the repair shop spread with fans, computers and amplifiers, he continues to work towards that goal. Receiving a nod from his boss to proceed with the final steps to fix the television, he grins and bends over to continue surgery on the tangle of red, yellow and blue wires. After checking the power once again, the screen pops back to life. Clearly proud but keen to appear casual, Sokha flips through the now-vivid channels. A blur of cartoons and news flies by before he settles on a music channel, from which a bittersweet song rings out.



OUT-SPOKEN CAMBODIAN MEAS SOKHORN USES HIS WORK TO PAINT A PICTURE OF MODERN DAY LIFE IN CAMBODIA. MARISSA CARRUTHERS DISCOVERS WHAT MOTIVATES THE ARTIST. PHOTOGRAPHY CHARLES FOX.

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unched over a worn notepad crammed full of sketches and sentences plucked from his artistic mind, Meas Sokhorn apologises as he puts the finishing touches to a drawing. “I take this everywhere with me,” he says pointing to the tattered book and scraps of paper doused in doodles that spill out of it. “If I don’t get my thoughts and ideas down when

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they come to me, I forget.” Trained at the Royal University of Fine Arts in interior design, art has always been at the forefront of Meas’ mind. But after graduating, his yearning for artistic expression remained unfulfilled by the work he carried out during his day job. “Even though interior design is creative, it’s also limited,” he says. “It’s not a free road.” Deciding to experiment with

different forms, Meas, who was born in Phnom Penh, took to sculpting, painting and live performances to appease his creative cravings. In 2006, he held his debut solo exhibition at Java Arts and his career as a full-time artist, with some interior design freelancing on the side, was launched. Drawing inspiration from his surroundings, the talented 37-year-old is not afraid to use his work to make a statement. And that’s exactly what he’s been doing since his debut exhibition. Carving out his own signature style, Meas is renowned


for his use of waste materials and objects, and his work often breathes a new lease of life into scrap and waste he finds on the street, from gnarled and rusting barbed wire and rotting wood to chopsticks and plastic. “I see potential in everything,” he remarks. “I also want to show how objects are transient and can be perceived in different ways.” Meas’ unique eye for detail and interior design training is evident in his sculptures, with his surreal debut pieces using bamboo and rattan to create giant, curved sculptures that sweep across the studio space.

“IN THIS COUNTRY VEHICLES ARE USED AS BULLETS AND EVERYTHING I ADDRESS HERE TROUBLES ME VERY MUCH”

As his form of expression evolved, Meas’ second solo show, Exhale, came in the form of a sculpture made from wire and indigenous reed, suspended from the gallery ceiling. This saw him scoop the prestigious Signature Art Prize from the Singapore Art Museum in 2008. Eager to push boundaries, in 2010 he was invited to America to take part in a three-month residency. During this time, he created Self-portrait, an abstract, flowing sculpture made from more than 7,000 chopsticks. Later that year he went on to exhibit, Contemporary

Art Museum. For the abstract installation, he created a web of red wax string attached to the gallery walls and a former kitchen door. The piece was an attack on the lack of museums in Cambodia for contemporary artists to showcase their work. This is an issue the charismatic creative feels strongly about and continues to campaign for in his drive to encourage more Cambodians to think conceptually and appreciate contemporary art. “Sometimes it’s hard because a lot of people in Cambodia are blind even when they have their eyes open,” he remarks. “I would like to try and change this. I think using my art is a way to start. I don’t expect everyone to change their views through my work but even if I get a few people talking that makes me happy.” Now, after a short hiatus, Meas is back with a new exhibition in the form of Inverted Sewer, a series of 16 bold paintings that explore Cambodia’s traffic troubles. Underlying themes of class conflict and the exploitation of power pervade. “Traffic here is terrible and it’s disturbing to me,” he says. “I feel like a zombie on an engine. Drivers are aggressive and don’t respect the rules of the road. Drink driving is a huge problem too. Then there are the gangsters with power who just don’t care. The whole system is broken and the roads are a symbol for the country itself.” In the exhibition, a chaotic smattering of motorbikes, luxury cars, traffic police, pedestrians and bottles of booze sit, ungrounded, on a backdrop of blood red. Passengers are armed with booze and guns, police clutch wads of dollar bills with chopsticks, and the homeless, street cleaners and child sellers seen on the roads feature heavily, throwing the spotlight on social issues. “In this country vehicles are used as bullets and everything I address here troubles me very much,” says Meas, who started work on the project at the end of last year. “I always wanted to write a book on traffic but here, as with all of my work, the paintings are my pages and my art the words.” Inverted Sewer can be seen at Java Cafe and Gallery, 56 Sihanouk Boulevard, until November 16. AsiaLIFE Cambodia 39


ANIMAL MAGIC

ELLIE DYER MEETS SOME OF CAMBODIA’S ANIMAL ENTHUSIASTS AND DISCOVERS MORE ABOUT THE RISING TIDE OF PET SERVICES. PHOTOGRAPHY ANNA CLARE SPELMAN.

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fter enjoying a relaxing oil massage, the client’s hair is worked into a rich lather. Strands are carefully shampooed and conditioned with sweet-smelling products, before being dried and brushed until they gleam. Yet despite the chilled out music, calming ambience and aromatic aromas, this is no human enjoying a day of primping at the salon. Today it’s Tinkerbelle, a friendly spaniel, who is benefiting from a treatment at Pet Grooming Cambodia – a small business billed as the country’s first pet spa. Expat Donabelle Zuzart, originally from Goa, India, opened the facility in Phnom Penh’s Toul Kork district earlier this year 40 AsiaLIFE Cambodia


the owner and founder of K9 Group Ltd, who conceived the idea for his canine-focused business after an off-the-cuff conversation about the excellent condition of his Great Dane. With a policy of “dog needs before human needs”, K9 operates a head office in Sihanoukville and offers a wide range of services, such as kennels, a veterinary clinic, a grooming salon, a pet travel agency and a certified breeder network – stating that, under no circumstances will it purchase from the industrialised puppy market. The business also operates a street dog rehabilitation program for prospective owners who want to adopt, and runs a civilian section at its training facility, which can transform a

competent pet into a defensive home security guard dog or a family or personal bodyguard. Dogs can also be rehabilitated for unwanted behaviour and in obedience and socialisation. Indeed, whether it is organisations like the Phnom Penh Animal Welfare Society (PPAWS) working towards improving the lives of animals or the specialist hotels dedicated to pet boarding, animal enthusiasts around the country are catering for creatures’ wants and needs. What unites them is the respect and appreciation for the animals in their care. As Zuzart says before lovingly washing her contented pet, Tinkerbelle, in a flurry of shampoo suds: “Some people consider dogs as kids and, for me, she’s a child.”

CREATURE COMFORTS

AsiaLIFE looks at just some of the animal-related businesses and organisations working in the Kingdom:

K9

This “one-stop-shop” for canine services enforces a European standard of animal welfare, amenities, equipment and building standards. Headquartered in Sihanoukville, it provides a large range of options from kennels to grooming and a pet shop. It also runs a training facility with a civilian section. Another side of the company caters for sectors such as the government, NGOs, the military, civil defense and corporate and private enterprises. Visit K9cambodia.com or the K9 Dogs Cambodia Facebook page.

PPAWS

after a lifetime love affair with all creatures great and small. “I’ve grown up with animals all my life. Ever since I’ve been born we’ve always had pets in my house – a zoo eventually,” she adds, ticking off the 14 dogs, 36 turtles, two goats, two guinea fowl and four ducks that she has looked after at one time or another. The professional DJ’s dream is to one day own a zoo, but it’s most often dogs and cats that enter the doors of her grooming salon, which is decorated in paw prints, and offers pet boarding and boasts a spacious garden. Soothing massages using olive, coconut, avocado or tea tree oils can be carefully administered by Zuzart alongside a variety of groom-

ing options and ‘pawdicures’, with professional equipment disinfected after every use. Other than being a pet paradise, the sparkling new business is indicative of a wave of animal lovers who are tapping into

“I’ve grown up with animals all my life. Ever since I’ve been born we’ve always had pets in my house – a zoo eventually” a greater demand for petrelated services in Cambodia. “Khmers are spending real income on their pets and beginning to imitate first world retail customers in their choices and purchases,” explains Leo Clifton,

Founded in 2011, the Phnom Penh Animal Welfare Society (PPAWS) aims to improve the welfare of cats and dogs in Cambodia. Its goals, as stated on the ppaws.com website, are to work with pagodas to take care of animals, spray and neuter animals in order to limit stray populations, find homes for animals and educate people on animal welfare and responsible pet ownership. It also regularly updates the PPAWS Facebook page.

PET GROOMING CAMBODIA

This relaxing salon is located in a spacious villa and garden complex in the capital’s Toul Kork district. Spa services, such as massages, are offered alongside pet boarding without cages and grooms. “I would say a short crop is ideal for pets here. You have to keep pets clean. The biggest factor, because of the humidity, is fleas and ticks which bite into them,” says managing director Donabelle Zuzart. A range of organic shampoos and conditioners, which are not animal tested, are also on sale. For more information, visit the petlovercambodia Facebook page.

PET RESORT CAMBODIA

Set near the Bassac River, around 25km from the centre of Phnom Penh, Pet Resort Cambodia offers pet boarding for dogs and cats and is closely linked to veterinarian clinic Agrovet. Four permanent staff members spend their days amongst the animals, with time set aside for playing and interaction. Cats are kept in a house, cleaned multiple times daily, with a large opening on the riverside. They are free twice a day for scent marking and caresses, and there are facilities for claw sharpening. To find out more, visit petresort-cambodia.com

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WALK &TALK

A HIKING GROUP IS PROVING A HIT SINCE FIRST SETTING OUT TO EXPLORE HIDDEN POCKETS OF OUTER PHNOM PENH. WRITER MARISSA CARRUTHERS AND PHOTOGRAPHER RUDI TOWIRO PUT ON THEIR HIKING BOOTS TO SEE WHAT ALL THE FUSS IS ABOUT.

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he one thing that can’t be controlled in Cambodia is the weather, as Inge Kremer discovered during Phnom Penh Hike’s debut instalment. Having launched the group in part due to pangs of homesickness for the green landscape in her homeland that provides the perfect setting for hiking, the Dutch woman recalls wading thigh-deep through water during the first adventure to Mekong Island. “We’d been to carry out a final check of the route the day before and everything was fine,” the 34-year-old says. But an isolated pocket of overnight rainfall on the island caught them out on the day, as a stretch of the paddy fields their hike took them through flooded.The impromptu deluge failed to dampen spirits and the group has grown with each session since. “It was an adventure; so much fun,” Kremer says with a smile. During our visit – the group’s third outing, which saw numbers swell from 18 to 28 despite the mass expat exodus for Pchum Benh – it wasn’t the rain that was proving to be a problem but the sun. And as the group stood, beads of sweat dripping from foreheads, at our Independence Monument 42 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

pick-up point, I questioned how I was expected to survive. As our two minibus-strong convoy headed south, the oppressive heat and drone of the capital was quickly replaced with fresh air and rolling countryside. And just half an hour later, we landed at our final destination, Koh Krobey – a world away from the hustle and bustle of nearby city life. “Each time we try and do something different,” Kremer explains as we meander past emerald green paddy fields, mirrorlike lakes, and woodland littered with the odd pristine temple and traditional wooden house. Children, scream cries of “hello” as they race by on their bikes. “There’s a lot of craziness when you live somewhere as vibrant as Phnom Penh,” the expat-of-six-months says. “It’s a lot of fun but it’s also nice to get away from the city a bit and explore more.” Kremer’s aim is also to provide people with an opportunity to socialise, with each hike ending with a few beers or soft drinks before heading home. “I’ve been amazed by the response,” she states, noting that to date a mix of tourists, expats and a few locals are signing up. “It’s especially nice to see Cambodians taking an interest.” The idea first came to her during a cycling tour given as


a departure gift from friends back home. Kremer immediately formed a bond with her guide, Mai Channeang, and shared her thoughts about establishing Phnom Penh Hike. “He was enthusiastic straight away and cruising the city surroundings for cool places to hike, we have become good friends,” she says. Now, ahead of each trek, they jump on a motorbike and scour the city and its outskirts for routes that are interesting, safe and have families along the hike willing to host the group during the halfway refreshment and fruit break. As our hike draws to a close, three-hours in, I sit amazed as I crack open a cool beer. Despite having lived in the capital for almost two years, I was oblivious to this tranquil side of the country that sits right on my doorstep, and what a fun way to discover it. With plans to head further afield as well as city tours and the offer to investigate places of intrigue that people might not want to explore alone, I think I’ll definitely be investing in some hardier hiking boots, and perhaps a parasol. Hikes cost $4, including transport, refreshments and fruit, and take place every three weeks. For more information visit Phnom Penh Hike on Facebook.

EXPLORE THE CITY

There are other ways to explore the city and beyond in similar style. Every Sunday at 2pm, Phnom Penh Hash House Harriers take to different locations across the city and beyond for a social run of between 8km and 10km. The cost is $3 for Cambodians, $5 for foreigners and 2,000 riel for children. For more information, visit www.p2h3.com. Phnom Penh Bike Hash also hosts a mountain bike ride in Phnom Penh’s outlying countryside, followed by beer and food on the first Saturday of the month at 2pm. Tickets are $10 and $6 for children. Bikes can be rented at an additional cost. For more information, visit the Phnom Penh Bike Hash Facebook page.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 43


T

hose who have watched Al Pacino’s gradual disintegration in the movie Insomnia will know the perils of sleeplessness within the Arctic Circle. Although Norway might not have the same serial-killer tendency as its Arctic cousin, Alaska – at least in the movie – it does have the same penchant for never-ending sunlight around midsummer. Friends had warned me of the tricks that 24/7 daylight might play on the mind, yet still I found myself unprepared for my trip to the Scandinavian nation. While I had equipped myself with the type of eye protectors that airlines kindly dispense on long haul flights – a tip I would recommend to Mr Pacino – I had sadly omitted to pack my sunblock. For in truth, while sleep was never a difficulty, I had not figured with the intensity of the sun. The Norwegian capital should have forewarned me of what to expect. Locals clung to the water’s edge on pontoons eking out the last drop of sun as only the perennially sun-starved can, occasionally plunging into the refreshing waters. Fuelled by the North Sea’s reserves, over three decades Norway has undergone a massive transformation from one of the poorest in Europe to the sixth richest nation in the world, according to the World Bank. This is evidenced throughout Oslo, where modern bistros and cafés abound with prices that would be a match for the French Riviera. The old shipyard area around Aker Brygge has

LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN

SICK OF TROPICAL HEAT, ASIALIFE CAMBODIA’S PUBLISHER MARK BIBBY JACKSON SETS OFF TO THE ARCTIC CIRCLE, ONLY TO ENCOUNTER YET MORE SUN.

been transformed into a trendy dining street where credit cards come to die. It’s a far shift from the pre-oil days when Norwegians used to “eat to survive” as one restauranteur described to me. Nowhere expresses the capital’s newfound confidence more than the Opera House, spectacular building which puts Sydney’s to shame. Inside some of the finest operatic works are performed; outside locals and tourists ascend the marble floor to get a quite wonderful view of the sun setting – around 10pm in midsummer – over the city. Most of the many tourists who visit Norway come for the fjords. In midsummer, the southern part of the country is assaulted by marauding hordes of European tourists disembarking from their monstrous cruise liners in a Viking invader roll reversal. As the main draw of Norway is the emptiness of its landscape, I decided to head as far north as possible to the Lofoten Islands, a remote archipelago within the Arctic Circle, stopping on the way at the Geirangerfjorden. My departure point for the UNESCO-listed fjord was the village of Andalsnes. With its central lake guarded over by a mean looking troll, this is also the last stop on the Dombas to Andalsnes railway, one of the most scenic in Europe. As the train twists its way through the valley with waterfalls to left and right, the travelogue reminds you that this service is as much for tourists as for locals. That is part of the ease of travelling through Norway. Everything is geared up for tourists. 44 AsiaLIFE Cambodia


THE GEIRANGERFJORDEN IS SPECTACULAR, SOMEHOW FARMS HANG FROM THE SHEER CLIFFS CUT BY ICE AGE GLACIERS, IN DEFIANCE OF GRAVITY

The following day, my bus driver doubles as a tour guide, stopping en route for scheduled photo opportunities, while providing me with insightful analysis of Norwegian football – Rosenborg are not what they used to be. The Geirangerfjorden is spectacular. Somehow farms hang from the sheer cliffs cut by Ice Age glaciers, in defiance of gravity. Although, the town of Geiranger is somewhat of a tourist trap, the surrounding countryside is stunning. It’s well worth taking the bus up the hill to the Dalsnibber lookout some 1,500m above the town for some breathtaking yet totally exposed views down to the fjord. Leaving the fjords behind me, I take the overnight train up to Bodø, a town only noteworthy

for being the departure point for the ferry to Moskenes in the Lofoten Islands. Few places I have visited compare with the majestic landscape. Jagged rocks rising from the sea await us. Apparently the tourist season here is short, just a few months in the summer, at other times the islands lie deserted, at least by man. The island is amazing. The waters are crystal clear, the fields littered with beautiful prairie flowers and the sun perpetually above my head – this is where the sunblock could come in handy. Fish hang out to dry in the tiny hamlet of Sakrisøy, a place as remote as it is idyllic. I spend a few hours wandering around the tiny inlets soaking up the tranquillity and trying to capture the amazing blue of the

water and sky with my camera, while glorying in the freshness of the air that lies far beyond its technology. Eventually, I stumble into the village of Reine, a budding metropolis compared with Sakrisøy with its restaurant and bar, and finish my day with a most glorious local fish meal. The following day’s bus trip across the island to the town of Narvik on the mainland reveals the full intensity of the island. There is so much space here that many travellers spend a week or so following trails and camping. It must feel like travelling back in time to an untouched wilderness. Unfortunately, I have a date that evening with the midnight sun that will not wait. Spending the day wandering around this rather nondescript town, bathing in the remarkably

warm Arctic waters, I wait until midnight approaches. Then, rather than retire to bed, I take the cable car up the mountain that dominates the town. The sun burns brightly in my eyes as it descends towards the horizon. Then slowly, almost imperceptibly it hovers before making its gradual journey back east, drifting ever so slightly upwards on its way. Its movement is only detectable once I return after a few minutes break. Equably remarkable is the passing of dusk towards daylight, without any intervening darkness, even though it is not yet 1am. A remarkable experience and one truly worth staying up for. Perhaps Mr Pacino should have followed suit instead of chasing serial killers’ non-existent shadows. AsiaLIFE Cambodia 45


DEVOURING FOOD HAS NEVER BEEN EASIER, THANKS TO THE CAPITAL’S APPETITE FOR ALL YOU-CAN-EAT BUFFETS. ASIALIFE TAKES A LOOK AT SOME OF PHNOM PENH’S BEST STEALS. PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHARLES FOX.

W

ith almost endless spreads of food up for grabs, it’s easy to see why the capital’s buffets are a popular choice with the masses. Offering the opportunity to dabble with a string of dining options, try different tastes and push the palette in new directions, AsiaLIFE takes a look at some of Phnom Penh’s most bustling eateries.

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SHABU SHABU & SUSHI BUFFET

With families packing out the place to hoover up the food on offer for just $7.80, Japanese and sushi are the flavour of the day here. Diners are seated at stations with dedicated soup bowls containing a boiling broth to toss in food that passes on a lengthy conveyor belt, with ingredients including vegetables, squid, fish, chicken, shellfish and noodles. Dumplings can also be thrown into the hotpot mix, as can the pieces of raw fish disguised as Angry Birds. There is also a sushi station and small selection of other Asian dishes, including chicken satay and fried rice. If there’s room, tuck into the ice cream and fruit platters. Corner of Sihanouk and Sothearos blvds., Tel. 023 215 453 & City Mall Shopping Centre, 012 208 383, open Monday to Saturday, from 11am to 9pm.

SAMBA BRAZILIAN STEAKHOUSE

If you’re a meat lover, upmarket Samba, offering a feast of cuts of fine Brazilian meat, is just the ticket. Sitting on the first floor of the Sihanouk Boulevard eatery, Samba staff, wielding large skewers of 15 juicy meats and seafood, are on hand to serve straight to your plate. Choices vary from pepper beef and prime cuts of beef to shrimp with bacon, barbecued pork xa xiu and chicken heart. Accompanying the speciality of meats is a feast in the form of a cold salad buffet that takes in cheeses, cold meats, bread, pasta, soups and sushi. And a chocolate fountain awaits as dessert. Lunch buffet is $16.90 (Monday to Friday), dinner is $31.90. 64 Sihanouk Blvd, Tel. 023 222 599, open daily from 11.30pm to 3pm and 5pm to 10.30pm.


TONLE BASSAC

HANAMI ENTERTAINMENT BUFFET

SUSHI KAIHOMARU

BUFFET ETIQUETTE

Tonle Bassac’s impressive offering of dishes is a feast for the eyes let alone the stomach, making it easy to indulge. Boasting more than 100 options at lunchtime and 200 during dinner, the predominantly Cambodian cuisine also takes in Malaysian, Vietnamese, Thai, Japanese and Western food. Despite the 500 seats, it can get busy in this buffet hall as Cambodians clamour for the grilled meats, freshly grilled seafood, barbecued beef, chicken and pork, pepper steak, crispy duck rolls and variety of soups and fried rice choices. Just in case there is still space, desserts take in ice cream, cake and fruits. Lunch buffet costs $7, dinner is $15. 177 Mao Tse Toung Blvd, Tel. 023 210 019, open for lunch every day from 11am to 2pm and dinner from 6pm to 10pm. As one of the latest contenders to the market, this Aeon Mallbased entrant gives diners 80 minutes to gorge on as much grub and drink all the Angkor beer you could wish for in exchange for a meagre $10. With all seafood said to be imported from Japan, the sushi selection is good quality and spans the norm of tuna, salmon and prawn, and extends to octopus and tamagoyaki, layers of egg, seaweed and rice. Hot food also awaits hungry diners in the form of noodles, miso soup, Japanese-style stir-fry, salads and tempura. Aeon Mall, Sothearos Blvd, Tel. 023 966 269, open 10.30am to 9pm.

The entertainment referred to in this restaurant’s name can only mean the feast of food on offer because there’s no chance of leaving Hanami hungry. Specialising in Japanese cuisine, the restaurant’s offering also spans Khmer and Chinese cuisine as well as rather bizarrely boasting a pasta and pizza bar. The sushi carousel serves up a healthy mix of options, and food stations serve noodle soups, tempura dishes, kebabs and a selection of desserts, ranging from mousse and cake to custard-based desserts. The lunch buffet costs $9 and dinner is $21. Free-flow Angkor beer can be added for $1.50. Corner Mao Tse Toung Blvd and Street 63, Tel. 070 389 100, open daily from 11am to 3pm and 5pm to 10pm.

DON’T PILE YOUR PLATE TOO HIGH. REMEMBER, YOU CAN GO BACK FOR ROUND TWO. KEEP IT CLEAN. FOR EXAMPLE, AVOID USING YOUR HANDS OR MIXING THE SAUCE SPOONS. PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE. WAIT YOUR TURN IN THE QUEUE, THE FOOD ISN’T GOING ANYWHERE. AVOID BREAD. IT WILL FILL YOU UP AND LEAVE LESS SPACE FOR TASTIER SNACKS. AsiaLIFE Cambodia 47


DUPLEX 3, Street 278, // Open daily from 11am to midnight. Tel. 098 317 150

Adding a fresh twist to vegetarian eating is top of Duplex’s dining agenda. Marissa Carruthers and photographer Charles Fox sample the menu.

It’s easy to create the illusion of fine food by filling a menu full of fancy words, but the proof is definitely in the pudding – and all other courses – when it comes to new kid on the block, Duplex. Here, it’s the acute attention to detail, that can easily go unnoticed by distracted diners, which makes this place stand out. Setting up in a spot that has seen a string of businesses struggle to survive, it looks like the brains behind Duplex have finally got the recipe right because day and night, an array of people fill the tables in the spacious downstairs bar and restaurant area. With the focus being on providing healthy food at healthy prices, the majority of the carefully crafted menu is 48 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

built around the pescatarian concept. However, meat-lovers need not feel left out as there is a small “grills of hell” section. This includes chicken satay and lemongrass skewers ($6.50), Australian beef tenderloin ($16.90) and cheeseburger ($6.50). Deciding to stick to the flavour of the restaurant, we ignored the meat and settled on the aubergine, gorgonzola and thyme lasagna ($7.50), seared pistachio-crusted tuna ($11.90) and baked potato and pumpkin gnocchi ($5.90). Effort clearly goes into presentation and each of the dishes looked almost too nice to tuck into. However, we were hungry and the guilt soon passed. The lasagna was undoubtedly one of the best I’ve tasted to date and

the key to this success lies in the laborious technique of cooking the lasagna layer by layer before adding the aubergine, gorgonzola and thyme puree and giving it one last blast in the oven. The result is divine with the freshly-made pasta cooked to the perfect bite – not too soft and not too crunchy – while the creamy puree adds a rich but refined tang to the equation. The tuna was on a par, with the flesh remaining cold and firm despite having being lightly seared on the outside. The mustard and pistachio crumble that coats the fish adds a crunch and slight kick, and despite the accompanying papaya, mango and cucumber salsa sounding like a sweet addition, it in fact adds a delightful twist, giving

a fresh kick to the palette. The baked potato and pumpkin gnocchi with sage and raw egg yolk, topped with taleggio fondue and almond flakes, also packs a punch. Steering away from the traditional small pockets of gnocchi, Duplex serves the Tuscany type, which comes as one whole, pillow-like dish. Despite the gnocchi being cooked to the crunch, as if by magic runny egg yolk oozes out as soon as you cut in, adding to the texture and taste of the delicious, filling meal. Satisfied and stuffed, I finished off my iced-tea, which, to my surprise despite the Cambodian heat, hadn’t been diluted thanks to the drink cleverly containing ice cubes made from the infused tea. Genius.


L’AMBOISE Cambodiana Hotel, 313 Sisowath Quay // Open daily from Noon to 2:30pm and 6;00pm - Late Tel: 023 426 288

Cooking for the high-class is a piece of cake at L’Amboise. Writer Ellie Dyer and photographer Charles Fox test it out.

With high-class patrons and sumptuous French cuisine, L’Amboise restaurant at the Cambodiana Hotel brings a personalised service to its clientele. “We know how to serve the Prime Minister; we know how to serve the King,” explains the hotel’s food and beverage manager Tep Romania, sitting in the restaurant’s intimate dining room overlooking the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers. The French eatery, which is enduringly popular with the upper echelons of society, has a long history in Phnom Penh. First opened in 1990, though at the time operating under a different name, it soon earned a reputation for fine dining par excellence. “The first hotel that opened

after the war was the Cambodiana,” says Romania, who rose up the ranks to become the hotel’s F&B manager around a decade ago, and has had experience working in Australia. Having served United States president Barack Obama, who visited Cambodia in 2012, Romania says that both good service and good food are key to success, emphasising the importance of knowing and catering for guests’ personal preferences and tastes. Under the guidance of executive chef Song Teng, the kitchen uses imported produce, such as French oysters, in a menu that changes every three months in line with the European seasons. The newly launched Autumnal menu features seasonal products, alongside

both signature and classic dishes, to keep it fresh. Illustrating the team’s skills is an impressive dome of puff pastry encasing a classic, rich black onion soup with gooey Emmental cheese. In another dish, a truffle oil dressing brings out the woody notes of a smoked salmon and smoked duck salad. Intricate sculptures of Cambodian temples carved from potatoes decorate plates, with a succulent cut of US beef tenderloin accompanied with an innovative rock salt infused with red wine, alongside sautéed mushrooms, spinach and a pepper sauce. The roast lamb benefits from deep-fried crispy corn, a vegetable ratatouille, red capsicum coulis and a garlic confit, while the traditional French snail

has been adapted into a crispy wonton and added to a smoked duck salad with Caesar sauce. For dessert, try the walnut mazarin cake, where the nuts add an extra dimension of crunch and a raspberry coulis cuts through the sweet flavours. And after decades of providing top cuisine to the capital, with the Cambodiana team often called upon to cater for important events held at the Royal Palace, Tep Romania and Song Teng have forged a close working relationship, ensuring the quality of fine dining at the hotel for years to come. “The strength is because of these two people right here,” adds Pascal Brandt-Gagnon, Cambodiana’s resident manager, sitting down with the pair. AsiaLIFE Cambodia 49


BehindtheDesign

50 AsiaLIFE Cambodia


KOUK KHLEANG YOUTH CENTRE

As the sun beams through the bamboo screens of the Kouk Khleang Youth Centre (KKYC) in Phnom Penh’s Sen Sok district, geometric patterns of light refract on the building’s walls and floors. Children play games on its shady terraces by day; while evenings see students take English lessons in a cool classroom that benefits from the sustainable structure’s natural ventilation. Openings in the exterior encourage airflow, turquoise walls reflect sunlight, and ventilation holes help to keep both the temperature and humidity low. Yet the idea behind this forward-thinking youth centre came not under the sweltering sun of the Kingdom, but thousands of miles away in a design studio session at Aalto University, based in the distinctly chilly Finnish capital Helsinki, in 2010. A group of six Finnish students then went on to found an architectural group called Komitu and collaborated with two local NGOs – Cambodian Volunteers for Society (CVS), which works with youth, and Khmer Kampuchea Krom Human Rights and Development Organisation – to construct the building, which was completed in January 2014. With “social, cultural and ecological sustainability” at the core of Komitu’s design philosophy, the structure – containing classrooms alongside NGO office space and a radio studio – is a case study in sustainable development. Bamboo, which forms the terraces and roof rafters, is a traditional Cambodian building material that resumes growth even after harvesting. The stems have been treated with a solution of water, borax and boric acid, and oiled to prevent attack from environmental agents, such as insects or mold. In a further nod to the environment, the structure’s concrete frame is filled with locally produced earthen blocks – made up of compressed soil, sand and cement – rather than red bricks, which have a higher carbon footprint as they are baked at more than 1,000 degrees Celsius. Plastic bottles have also been stuffed with nonorganic materials and used as a construction material in a bid to provide an affordable means of waste management, while huge clay pots harvest rainwater to be used on site. “The way they designed it, there’s more light inside and more air,” explains Pen Somony, director of CVS, while walking around the spacious complex, where bamboo stems form a puzzle of interlocking shapes. “It’s a nice place to work and many people are interested in this building – it’s different from others,” he adds. Words Ellie Dyer. Photography by Rudi Towiro. AsiaLIFE Cambodia 51



Hair, makeup and styling The Dollhouse Photography Clay Frame Models Nikki Nikki and Anna Mischke

Earrings D.Design Pearl necklace Paperdolls Dresses Galvano


Nikki dress February Anna dress Galvano


Straw hats and white clutch Paperdolls Dresses A.ND


Anna dress Galvano Nikki dress Paperdolls Necklaces D.Design


LISTINGS

hotel & travel Airlines & Agencies

Silk Air Regency Complex C, Suite 2-4 Samdach, Monireth Blvd, S.k. Tomnoubteouk, Khan Chamkarmorn Tel: 023 988 629

Asiana Airlines Room A16 at Phnom Penh International Airport. Tel: 023 890 441

Thai Airways 294 Mao Tse Toung Blvd., Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 214 359

Air Asia Domestic Terminal Arrival Office NºA17, Phnom Penh International Airport Tel: 023 890 035

Bangkok Airways 61A, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 722 545 Cambodia Angkor Air Branch Office in Phnom Penh #206A Preah Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 6666 788 Cebu Pacific Air No. 333B, Preah Monivong Blvd, Sangkat Orussey 4, Khan 7 Makara, 12257 Phnom Penh Tel: 023 219 161 China Airlines 32, Preah Norodom Blvd, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 222 056 China Eastern No. 68, st. 606, Sangkat Beung Kak 2, Khan Toul Kork, Phnom Penh Tel: 016 985 668 304, Steung Thmey Village, Siem Reap. Tel: 063 965 229 China Southern Room F-G-H-I,Ground floor Nº53, Phnom Penh Hotel, Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 424 588 DragonAir 168 Monireth Boulevard, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 424 300 Eva Air Suite 11-14B, Street 205, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 219 911 Jet Star Asia #333B, Monivong Blvd., Phnom Penh Tel: 023 220 909 Korean Air #254, R03, Monivong Blvd., Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 2240 47-49 Lao Airlines 58B, Preah Sihanouk Blvd. Phnom Penh Tel: 023 222 956 Malaysia Airlines #35-37, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 218 923-924 Myanmar Airways International No. 90-94Eo, Charles de Gaulle (St. 217), 12257 Phnom Penh Tel: 023 866 404 Qatar Airways Ground floor, Intercontinental Hotel, Phnom Penh. www.qatarairways.com Skywing Asia Airlines IOC buld, Monivong Blvd, Beoung Riang, Doun Penh. Tel: 023 217130

Tiger Airways No. 296, Mao Tse Toung (St. 245), Intercontinental Hotel, Suit 16B, 12306 Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 5515 888 Vietnam Airlines #41, Street 214, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 215 998

Battambang

Cafe Eden Located along the River Tel: 053 731 525www. cafeedencambodia.com Eclectic cafe with incredible food that overlooks the river. EspressoWifi- A.C.-Local Art. Non-Profit that focuses on training Cambodian People. Boutique with handmade local crafts. Happy hour 3pm-7pm. Open Wednesday - Monday 7:30am-9pm Bambu Hotel Phum Romchek 5 Tel: 053 953900 / 053 953 905 bookings@bambuhotel.com www.bambuhotel.com 16 rooms arranged in four traditionally inspired buildings with swimming pool, bar and restaurant. Battambang Resort Wat Ko Village, Battambang Tel: 012 510 100/053 666 7001 info@battambangresort.com www.battambangresort.com Jaan Bai restaurant Road 2 near Psar Nat Market Tel: 097 398 7815 Jaan Bai is a home for folks who share a love of gatherings around the table, a passion for food and an interest in supporting Cambodian youth. Using seasonal organic produce sourced from own kitchen garden, local farmers and neighboring markets. Open Tuesday – Sunday 11am – 9pm. Kinyei cafe Street 1 and 1/2, Phum 20 Osaphea Tel: 017 292 119, www.kinyei.org Social enterprise, best coffee in town, serving snacks, lunch, breakfast and other drinks, friendly staff, free space for small open workshop. Won the National Barista Championship two years in a row 2012 and 2013. Open 7am-7pm, 7 days. La Villa 185 Pom Romchek 5 Tel: 017 411 880 / 053 730 151, lavilla.battambang@gmail.com, www.lavilla-battambang.com Beautifully restored 1930s colonial house with six rooms is the premium hotel in the country’s second city and with an excellent kitchen and bar.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 57


Sangker Villa Hotel Pool Restaurant 200 Street, Romchek4 Village, Ratanak Commune Tel: 097 764 0017 www.sangkervilla.com Sangker Villa has 7 rooms and 1 Balcony Suite. It is located 10 minutes walk from the city center. The hotel combines the charm of the countryside with the advantages of the city. Swiss management, speaking English, French, German, Italian and Spanish.

Kampot

Blissful Guest House Tel: 012 848 390 www.blissfulguesthouse.com Small guest house, with 18 rooms, set in guest house street with downstairs garden bar and restaurant and bar, Sunday roast, home-baked bread. Bokor Mountain Lodge Riverfront Tel: 033 932 314/ 017 712 062 www.bokorlodge.com Beautiful French colonial building situated on riverfront with well-fitted air-conditioned rooms. Has a good restaurant and bar. Epic Arts Café Old Market Street Employing deaf staff, this café next to the old market has a good range of bagels, shakes, brownies and coffee. Is also the centre for the community arts programme. Open from 7am - 6pm. Les Manguiers 2km north of Kampot. Tel: 092 330 050 Small resort with bungalows and rooms set in beautiful gardens overlooking the river with a restaurant which has daily changing, freshly prepared food.

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Mea Culpa 44 Sovansokar Tel: 012 504 769 meaculpakampot@gmail.com Accommodation established by the former manager of Bokor Mountain Lodge set in the French Quarter. Six rooms have air con, hot water, DVD and TV. The large garden has a patio pizzeria and bar. Rikitikitavi Riverfront Tel: 012 274 820/012 235 102 www.rikitikitavi-kampot.com Western food served in large portions in this river-facing restaurant, bar and three-room guesthouse. A more upmarket venue for Kampot, the upstairs seating affords great sunset views. Restaurant and bar open 7 days a week. Rusty Keyhole This British pub is the place for expats to chew the fat over a pint. Friendly British owner has recreated the atmosphere of a rural pub in outer Kampot, or at least as close as it gets. The ribs remain as good as ever. Open 8.30am until midnight.

Kep

Breezes Route 33. Tel: 097 675 9072 Situated on the main coast road about halfway between Kep Beach and the ferry to Rabbit Island, this stylish restaurant and lounge is located right by the sea in a green, wooded area. The food is a fusion of Asian and western with a focus on small dishes with plenty of seafood. Free pick-up and return to Kep hotels. Kep Lodge Tel: 092 435 330. www.keplodge.com Nestled just below the calm Kep National Park, this boutique resort

offers only 10 standard and luxury bungalows, all with private balcony, hot water and sea view. The comfortable restaurant pampers you with local and Swiss specialties and the lively bar. The beautiful infinity salt water pool has one of the best views in Kep and is the perfect place for a sunset. Knai Bang Chatt Resort Tel: 078888 557 www.knaibangchatt.com An exclusive resort offering personal service in private grounds housing a collection of remodelled 1960’s style colonial villas. Offering 18 rooms, infinity pool, spa and media centre. All rooms refurbished to international standards. Choice of two dining options – upscale The Strand or the adjoining Sailing Club. Le Bout du Monde Tel: 011 964 181 www.leboutdumondekep.com Individual and separate bungalows in traditional Khmer architecture located on a hill-top with good views and nice gardens. Serves French and Khmer cuisine. Rooms have hot water, minibar, fan and safe. The Vine Retreat Tel: 036 633 3383 / 097 461 0711 www.thevineretreat.com Eco guesthouse and organic food. Get away from the chaos of the city to peaceful, homely comfort surrounded by nature. Please note that the Vine Retreat now accepts Visa. The nearest ATM is 35 km distant. Spring Valley Resort/Mr. Mab Kep City, Cambodia, Tel: 036 666 6673 www.mr.mab.com, www.springvalley-resort.com

Spring Valley Resort, at the base of Kep National Park, is just a short walk to the beach. The rooms are scattered throughout vibrant green gardens, connected by walkways that wind through vines, trees and flowering plants. Their new restaurant, Mr. Mab... very delicious, takes a fresh look at traditional Khmer street food. Villa S’aat Tel 017 38 31 85. www.villa-kep.com Your holiday home in Kep! Elegant and spacious villa for rent in Kep during holidays and weekends. Located around 2 km from the crab market, with spacious rooms, fully equipped kitchen, swimming pool, large terrace, garden and household staff. Maximum capacity of 12 guests.

Mondulkiri

Mayura Hill Resort (Mondulkiri 4 star Boutique Resort) Phnom Penh Office: 225 Sisowath Quay Tel: 017 711 177 / 017 811 188 www.mayurahillresort.com Mayura Hill Hotel & Resort located in Mondulkiri Province has 14 exclusive private Bungalow villas embodying the north eastern lifestyle. The first eco-tourism resort in Sen Monorom city located just 1 Km from downtown, surrounded by wonderful views of the highlands.

Phnom Penh – Deluxe

Arthur & Paul Mâles SpaBoutique-Hotel 27 Street 71, BKK1 Tel. 023 212 814 or 077 892 256 www.arthurandpaul.com The first gay (100% men-only) SpaBoutique-Hotel-Restaurant-Bar in Phnom Penh. 10 rooms.


Bellevue Serviced Apartments 68 Tonle Sap Street. Tel: 023 432 999 www.bellevueservicedapartments.com www.facebook.com/ bellevueservicedapartments Located in a deluxe hotel complex on the riverbank of the Tonle Sap, Bellevue offers spacious, contemporary accommodation 10 minutes away from the city. Cambodiana 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 426 288 www.hotelcambodiana.com Great riverside location with spectacular sweeping views of the confluence of three rivers. Large rooms with air-con, in-room safes and good bathrooms. Live band plays nightly (except Mondays) from 8.15pm until late.

Raffles Hotel Le Royal Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 www.phnompenh.raffles.com Emanates the same class as its more famous namesake in Singapore. The Elephant Bar is a popular expat haunt during the 4pm to 8pm happy hour. Season Residence Apartments 109-133, Street 144 Tel: 023 990 628 / 012 457 408 www.seasonresidence.com Season Residence is self-catered accommodation located only 9 km from the airport. Featuring spacious apartments with free Wi-Fi access. Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200.www.sofitel.com Set riverside amongst landscaped gardens this 12-storey colonial style hotel is close to key attractions, embassies and the central business district.

Phnom Penh – Mid

Asia Club 456 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 721 766 An oasis of water and green in the city, the five bungalows and four rooms with air-con and bath, large safe and flatscreen tv. The beautiful swimming pool is tucked around the back of Man Han Lou Restaurant. The Billabong Hotel 5 Street 158 www.thebillabonghotel. com, Tel: 023 223 703 Phnom Penh’s premier boutique family hotel with 41 well appointed rooms surrounding a large free form salt water swimming pool. Poolside alfresco dining.

The 252 Boutique Hotel 19 Street 252, Tel: 023 998 252 www.the-252.com Conveniently located close to major attractions, the small boutique hotel offers a quiet and peaceful retreat from the bustling city. Spacious and stylishly decorated rooms with all amenities, swimming pool surrounded by a leafy tropical garden, outdoor restaurant and bar. The Artist Guesthouse (Mid-Range) 69 street 178, Tel: 023 213 930 www.the-artist-guesthouse.com Located across from the National Museum, The Artist is your place. The 11-bedroom guesthouse has a modern feel.

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A Place Where You Can Find All Your Household Needs

De Castle Royal

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Patio Hotel & Urban Resort 134z Street 51 www.patio-hotel.com Close to Independence Monument, the Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda, the National Museum and the river front, Patio has 45 luxurious rooms. Modern amenities include a rooftop swimming pool, a restaurant and a bar on the 7th floor. Restaurant open daily from 6am – 11pm.

Rambutan Resort 29 Street 71, BKK1. Tel: 017 99 22 40 www.rambutanresort.com Urban modern oasis located in a quiet residential area only 5 minutes from all major sights in Phnom Penh. Deluxe pool view and garden rooms with outdoor bathtubs. Salt water pool and private spa room for some unwinding treatments.

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nivong

InterContinental 296 Mao Tse Tung. Tel: 023 424 888 www.ihg.com One of Phnom Penh’s most luxurious 5-star hotels, the 346 air-con rooms have all the expected facilities including in-room safes and king size beds. Also has a large swimming pool, a fitness centre and a spa.

Pandan Boutique Hotel 15A Street 282. Tel: 012 373 78 www.pandanboutiquehotel.com Ideally located in the heart of Phnom Penh, at walking distance from the shopping and business district, 5mn walk from Independence Monumnent. 26 rooms with unqiue and classy design.

Preah Mo

Himawari 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 214 555 www.himawarihotel.com The 115 beautifully-designed suites have air-con, cable TV, IDD, Internet, inroom safes and large bathrooms. Nice swimming pool and good gym facilities as well as two good tennis courts.

Homefeel CS Hotel 23AB, Street 278. Tel: 023 214 571 www.homefeelcs-hotel.com Located in the heart of the tourist area in the center of Phnom Penh, Homefeel CS Hotel welcomes you warmly and guarantees you will get this feeling.

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Address No. 48A, Street No. 294, BKK1 (Close to Monivong Blvd) Tel: 089 266 851 www.facebook.com/japanhomecentrecambodia

The Little Garden 8 Street 398. Tel: 078 217 871 Stylish boutique hotel with a swimming pool. A quiet retreat from the city’s chaos. Rooms feature attractive Cambodian furniture and gorgeous colonial tiles. The Plantation Urban Resort and Spa 28 Street 184. Tel: 023 215 151 theplantatation.asia 70 rooms – including a penthouse suite, two swimming pools, a restaurant, two bars, a gym, a spa and a meeting room. Centrally situated close to most of Phnom Penh’s main attractions. The Quay Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 894 http://thequayhotel.com Five-storey, 16-room riverside boutique hotel has beautiful contemporary rooms designed by Gary Fell. The stand-out features are the roof-top jacuzzi and the very contemporary ground-floor bar and Chow Restaurant with WiFi. Queen Boutique Hotel 49A Street 214. Tel: 023 211 683 om@queenboutique.asia Boutique hotel located conveniently close to all the major attractions including the Royal Palace and National Museum. TEAV Boutique Hotel 14 Street 310, Phnom Penh, Tel: 023 981 818 / 017 989 191 www.teavboutiquehotel.com, stay@ teavgroup.com Located in a quiet, peaceful setting in the prestigious central heart of Phnom Penh near the Independence Monument, the uniquely designed art deco style TEAV Boutique Hotel provides single travellers, couples, families, leisure and business with a relaxing and highly personalised stay in Cambodia’s capital.

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Villa Borann 235A Street 19. Tel 023 211 518 www.villa-borann-boutique-hotel.com Business boutique hotel in the historical centre of Phnom Penh with 14 rooms, swimming pool, bar and restaurant. Nicely furnished rooms. Colonial style. Villa SALT 4 Street 294. Tel: 012 815 066 villasalt@sentosasilk.com Whether you are touring Phnom Penh or planning a long vacation, Villa SALT along with SentosaSilk, create an atmosphere that makes you feel at home. Explore 14 artistically decorated rooms, each created to give you that authentic sense of uniqueness. Villa Samnang Street 302, BKK1. Tel : 023 221 644 www.villa-samnang.com Boutique hotel with 14 rooms, swimming pool, bar and restaurant. Villa Srey 16 Street 306. Tel: 023 213 219 www.villasrey.com Charming hotel, six rooms with terrace and swimming pool. Very quiet in the heart of Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh - Budget

California 2 79 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 503 144 www.cafecaliforniaphnompenh.com New guest house and bar on the river front with well-priced rooms.Downstairs bar has great Tex-Mex food and pool table. Le Rit’s 71 Street 240. Tel: 023-213-160 Small & charming 6-room guesthouse with spacious rooms is managed by NYEMO NGO, part of its hospitality training. Rooms equipped with queen sized bed, cable TV, private bathroom.

Sihanoukville

Independence Hotel, Resort & Spa Tel: 034 934 300, Fax: 034 933 660 www.independencehotel.net Independence Hotel, Resort & Spa is an oasis of calm and luxury in Sihanoukville. The full delights of the resort, spa and private beach are ready for you to enjoy. Three fully equipped meeting and conference rooms are also available. Mick & Craig’s Restaurant Serendipity Beach, Sihanoukville Tel: 034 934 845 www.mickandcraigs.com A small friendly restaurant serving comfort food from around the world since 1997. Open daily from 7am-11pm. Reef Resort Road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 315 338 www.reefresort.com.kh Guesthouse set around a beautiful pool

with well apportioned air-con rooms, in-room safe and cable TV, family rooms also available. Has a welcoming bar with excellent TV screen, slate pool table and excellent Mexican cuisine. Scuba Nation Lane off road to Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 604 680 / 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Five-star PADI centre offering daily trips to the area’s many islands and reefs including the decent dive sites at Koh Rung Samloem and Koh Kon, also runs a range of PADI-certified courses, and has an office in Phnom Penh. The Secret Garden Otres Beach. Tel: 0976 495 131 www.secretgardenotres.com Modern beachside air-con bungalows with hot water, jungle showers or baths, TV, WiFi and Otres Beach’s only swimming pool. Restaurant run by professional Australian chef. Zoco Independence Hotel Road to Serendipity Beach Two fashion boutiques – one on the way to Serendipity Beach, the other in Independence Hotel – run by the Spanishborn Nuria, sells dresses, skirts, bags and accessories.

Travel

LISTINGS

siem reap Siem Reap - Bars

AHA The Passage. Tel: 063 965 501 Sophisticated and beautifully designed wine bar selling a wide range of wines from around the world and tapas, as well as great cheese and Lavazza coffee. Open 10.30am to 10.30pm. Angkor What? Pub Street. Tel: 012 181 4001 “Promoting irresponsible drinking since 1998,” this graffiti-laden bar is the mainstay of Pub Street. A healthy mix of loud rock, punk and grunge, buckets of vodka and red bull for $6.

Cambodia Uncovered 11B Street 370. Tel: 012 507 097 www.cambodiauncovered.com Offers village and cultural tours in Phnom Penh and surrounds including road trips, Mekong cruises, accommodation, cooking classes and other activities.

Laundry Bar Old Market Extremely chilled music bar just off Pub Street with great mellow decor and extremely cool t-shirts. Free drink during the 6pm to 9pm washing hours. Open 6pm until late.

Exotissimo Travel No. 66, Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 218 948 www.exotissimo.com Excellent Frenchowned agency specialising in adventure tourism, flight bookings, package holidays and a range of tours of Southeast Asia.

Linga Bar Alley behind Pub Street Tel: 012 246 912. www.lingabar.com Laid back, gay-friendly bar with extremely chilled Buddha Bar tunes and some amazing light boxes that serves a great range of cocktails. Free WiFi. Open 5pm until late.

Helicopters Cambodia 10 Street 310. Tel: 012 814 500 www.helicopterscambodia.com Over 12 years experience operating in the Kingdom offers scenic flights around the Temples of Angkor and beyond. Is a wholly owned subsidiary of Helicopters New Zealand Group. Intrepid Travel 468 Sivutha Blvd. Tel: 063 966 655 For travellers with a yearning to get off the beaten track, Intrepid opens up a whole new world of adventure travel. With a huge variety of tours available. Travel Indochina 43-44EO Street 108. Tel: 023 991 978 www.travelindochina.com.au Australian-owned travel company specialising in small group journeys around Asia that can tailor trips for individuals.

Mezze 13a (1st floor) Street 11 Tel: 097 7667343 mezze.siemreap@gmail.com www.mezzesiemreap.com Escape the heat and dust to be warmly welcomed by attentive staff at one of Siem Reap’s unique venues. Enjoy signature cocktails, original cuban cigars, fine champagnes, luxury shisha and fusion tapas. Open every day from 6pm-1am. Miss Wong Lane off Pub Street. Tel: 092 428 332 Imagine yourself in China at the turn of the last century and you won’t go much wrong in Miss Wong with excellent and original cocktails and dim sum. Open late. Nest Sivutha Blvd. Tel: 063 966 381 A step up for Siem Reap, Nest is high level drinking and dining, serving light Mediterranean and Asian food in a unique, highly stylised setting, with loungers and table settings. Picasso Alley West A very cosy wine and tapas bar, with artful décor and a curved bar making conversation easy and fun. Good selection of wines and delicious tapas make this a regular haunt for expats. Open 5pm until midnight. The Warehouse Old Market Tel: 012 530 227 Popular expat bar plays great music with good Asian-Western fusion cuisine. Best stocked bar in town and homemade infused vodkas. Open 10am to 3am.

Siem Reap - Galleries

Diwo Galleries One at Vat Svay, Tonle Sap Road and another between Monument Books and Ta Prohm Hotel on the riverside Features a selection of refined Khmer statues and Buddhas. The larger Vat Svay location features a gallery exhibition of Thierry Diwo’s photography, as well as sells home decor and books. Drinks are available in the garden and on the terrace. Happy Cambodia Gallery 2 Hospital Street, between Psar Chaas and Pub Street Tel: 063 963 114 www.happypainting.net McDermott Gallery I & II FCC Complex Pokambor Avenue, Alley behind Pub Street. Tel: 092 668 181 www.mcdermottgallery.com Two galleries devoted to photographic works. with permanent exhibition of photographs taken by John McDermott. Open 10am to 10pm.

Siem Reap - Hotels

Rambutan Hotels & Resorts Phum Wat Damnak, Kum Sala Komreuk, Krom 10, Siem Reap Tel: 012 654 638 / 063 766 655 bookings@rambutansr.com, www.rambutans.info The former Golden Banana resort has been rebranded but contains the same deluxe suites & villas in modern Asian style build around a salt-water pool. Private balcony or terrace with outdoor bathtub/splash shower. Gay-friendly. 3mn walk to Old Market. Golden Orange Off East River Road Tel: 063 965 389 reservations@goldenorangehotel.com www.goldenorangehotel.com Mini-hotel with good sized air-con rooms that tends to have customers when others are empty. Nice outside bar makes for a good place to sit and have a few beers. Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor 1 Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 963 888 www.raffles.com Elegant hotel with opulent gardens and a spectacular swimming pool in its grounds. Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 063 964 600/ 610 www.sofitel.com Ultimate in comfort and refinement, combining the traditional architecture of Cambodia with elegant French colonial style. 5-star accommodation, 5 bars and restaurants, swimming pool, spa and international standard18-hole 72-par golf course, 16km outside Siem Reap. Sokkhak Boutique Resort Kok chork village, Trorpeang Ses commune, Wat thmey, Siem Reap Tel: 063 76 56 97/ 63 76 56 98 www.sokkhak-boutiqueresort.com We welcome you to experience a new way of life in Siem Reap by staying in either one of our 2 suites, 4 junior suites or 5 uniquely deluxe rooms and one classic standard room, decorated in a mix of boutique and homely styles that offer the simplicity, comfort and relaxation you desire on a tropical holiday.

Siem Reap - Leisure

Angkor Silk Farm Puok District (20min from Siem Reap downtown) Open daily from 8am to 5pm Tel: 063 5555 768 www.artisansdangkor.com Learn about the meticulous process of silk-making and traditional silk weaving. A free shuttle bus departing from Artisans Angkor’s shop in Siem Reap center to the Angkor Silk Farm is available daily at 9.30am and 1.30pm.


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siem reap

Siem Reap Artisan Workshops Caroline Major Siem Reap is home to markets and a myriad of shops that teem with products ranging from traditional crafts to touristy trinkets. Thanks to several artisan workshops and ateliers that open their doors to the public, it is easy to discover a treasure trove of quality, caringly-crafted wares while gaining an insight into Cambodia’s craft heritage. The most well-known and established, Artisans D’Angkor, was set up in the late 1990s. With more than 40 workshops across Siem Reap province, two of these are open to visitors. The ancient temples of Angkor display the skill and expertise of their Khmer ancestors; today watch the handicraft workers in practice as they produce intricate, delicate carvings on stone and wood, as well as silver plating, lacquer ware and fine paintings. Alternatively, see silk production in action at Angkor Silk Farm and learn how highquality fabrics are woven. Theam’s House, on the other hand, takes Cambodian craft methods and transforms them into decorative handmade art pieces and homeware with a distinctly modern aesthetic. Tucked away in a littleknown corner of Siem Reap, rainbow coloured geckos and elephant statues can be found at the atelier, gallery and workshop of Cambodian artist Lim Muy Theam and his artisan apprentices. Like Theam’s House, Cambolac similarly uses lacquer. Follow the steps that are taken in the arduous thirtyday manufacturing process at their workshops site near

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Wat Polanka pagoda. A simple wooden box becomes an elaborate, decorative art piece, finished with hand painted artwork or photos. Heading towards Chong Kneas on the Tonle Sap Lake is the Lotus Farm, an educational showroom on wooden stilts, created by fair trade company Samatoa. Once you see the complex process involved in producing luxurious textiles from all parts of the lotus, the price tags on the handmade clothing range make sense. Alternatively Prolung Khmer, near the Roluos group of temples, has more affordable fun fabrics in the guise of traditional Cambodian krama scarves. It is also possible to try your hand on the traditional looms by arranging a weaving class in advance. Natural products including soaps, spices and scented candles utilising locally sourced ingredients from mango to lemongrass are found at Senteurs D’Angkor workshop. Located on National Road 6, they also have a retail outlet opposite the Old Market. Other smaller, independent brands can be found at the Angkor Handicraft Association Market where artisans demonstrate their skills with the assurance that the items on sale are all authentic and made locally. Many of these workshops are also social businesses, providing vocational training while simultaneously not only helping to preserve but also to revive the country’s burgeoning artisan scene. All the artisan workshops mentioned are free to visit.

Body Tune 293-290 Pokambor Av. (next to the old market along Riverside) Tel: 063 764 141 www.bodytune.co.th When you need to re-balance and rejuvenate your body in between daily routines, BODY TUNE is the perfect place to regain your energy. Open daily 10am - 10.30pm.

hrcangkor.com Situated in a colonial-style building, Hard Rock Cafe Angkor fits perfectly with the surrounding businesses and buildings in the historic city centre. With 160 seats across two floors, and an additional 80 seats on the riverside terrace, the cafe is a great place to grab a bite. Open daily from 11am to late night.

Helicopters Cambodia 658 Hup Quan Street. Tel: 063 963 316 Professionally run company that has flights over the temples and beyond in modern, safe helicopters. Phare, The Cambodian Circus Behind Angkor National Museum on Komay Road. Tel: 015 499 480. www.facebook.com/PhareCambodianCircus A unique professional Cambodian theatrical circus show mixing traditional and modern artistic skills. Emotion guaranteed every night for only $15. 7.30pm daily.

King’s Road Angkor 7 Makara Road, Achar Sva Street (opposite Old Market bridge along the river) Siem Reap. Tel: 093 811 800, kingsroadangkor.com A unique dining and shopping village in Siem Reap, comprising of 15 restaurants and cafes and a dozen boutiques. it provides entertainment in elegant surroundings and is an ideal location to unwind from visiting the temples.

Phokeethra Country Club Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Vithei Charles de Gaulle Tel: 056 396 4600 reservation.angkor@phokeethragolf.com International standard 18-hole, 72-par golf course 16km outside of Siem Reap. Clubhouse facilities: pro shop, rental equipment, restaurant.

Maharajah Indian Restaurant Next to Pub Street, btwn CAB bank & provincial hospital. Old Market Area Tel: 063-966221 / 092-506622 Authentic Indian vegetarian and nonvegetarian food. Maharajah believes that exclusivity with a touch of simplicity is important in the creation of every dish. Open daily 11am – 10pm.

Siem Reap - Medical

Marum 8A-B Phum Slokram, Siem Reap (Between Wat Polanka & Catholic Church). Tel: 017 363 284 Featuring a winning mix of creative local cuisine, Marum customers will enjoy a fantastic dining experience that helps build a new life for the students in training there. Open daily from 11am -10.30pm (Kitchen closes at 9.30pm).

Siem Reap - Pharmacies

Palate Angkor Acha Sva Road, Wat Bo Village www.palateangkor.com Tel: 063 965 252 Palate Angkor Restaurant & Bar, the newest addition to the Siem Reap culinary scene. Serving delectable Pan Asian cuisine, Palate Angkor is centrally located in the leafy French Quarter between The Royal Gardens and the Riverside. Open daily from 11.30am-11pm.

Sam Veasna Centre Wat Bo Area. Tel: 063 96 37 10 Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Award winner. Some of the rarest birds in Asia can be seen at Prek Toal and Ang Trapang Thmor, a day-trip from Siem Reap, or combine bird watching with temple trips to Koh Ker and Beng Melea. Royal Angkor International Hospital National Route #6 Phum Kasekam, Khum Sra Ngea. Tel: 063-761-888. Fax: 063-761-739 www.royalangkorhospital.com Royal Angkor International Hospital is part of the well known Bangkok Hospital Network. We offer high quality care for all eventualities from routine care to emergency treatment 24 hours a day. U-Care Pharmacies Old market in front of Pub Street. Tel: 063 965 396; Inside Lucky Mall. Tel: 063 966 68; Siem Reap Airport. Tel: 063 766049; Sivatha Street. Tel: 063 763 399 www.ucarepharma.com Provide international cosmetic brands, leading imported health & beauty products, only certified medication. Professional advice and convenient and strategic location. Open daily from 8am to 10pm.

Siem Reap - Restaurants

Armand’s The Bistro 584 Sangkat Svay Dangkom, Phum Mondul 1 Tel: 092 305 401 A true bistro experience in a cosy wood-panelled space, despite the informal and relaxed ambience it has the menu to even satisfy high-rollers. Chanrey Tree Pokombo Ave. Tel: (855) 63 76 79 97 www.chanreytree.com Traditional Khmer food in a beautiful contemporary setting. Alongside the river, 50m brfore Preah Phrum Rath Pagoda. Open daily. Lunch 11am2.30pm, dinner 6pm-10.30pm. FCC Angkor FCC Complex, Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 280 Elegant bar and restaurant serves a mix of Asian and international cuisine. The complex includes shops, the McDermott Gallery, Visaya Spa and boutique hotel. Hard Rock Café 7 Makara, Achar Sva Street, Watbo Village. Tel: 093 565 655, info@

Siem Reap - Shops

Artisans Angkor Boutique and Workshops Stung Thmey Street (2min from the Old Market) Open daily from 7.30am to 6.30pm Tel: 063 963 330 www.artisansdangkor.com Boutique offering a large collection of handmade souvenirs such as high-quality silk scarves, clothing and accessories, wooden and stone sculptures. Also offers free guided tours of the handicraft workshops to see some of the secrets of traditional Khmer craftsmanship. Eric Raisina 75-81 (Level 4), Charles de Gaulle Avenue, Borei Prem Prey Tel: 063 963 207, ericraisina.com Open daily from 9am to 7pm Accessories, decor, textiles and clothing created by Madagascan-born and French-trained designer. Phone in advance for an appointment. Hard Rock Shop 7 Makara, Achar Sva Street, Watbo Village. Tel: 093 565 655, info@hrcangkor.com The unique rock shop of Cambodia has some exceptional collectibles, fashion and music related merchandise. Open daily from 9.30am to midnight. Jasmine Boutique FCC Angkor, Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 610 Same sophisticated, stylish boutique as on Street 240 in Phnom Penh.


LISTINGS

food & drink Arabic

Beirut Resto-Café 117 Sisowath Quay, (after night market) Tel: 023 720 011/ 092 483 759 The only authentic Lebanese halal cuisine and Sisha Lounge in the town. Offering middle east flavours including mezze tapas – hummus, shish kebab, baba ganouj, falafel, vegetarian and non-vegetarian kebab wraps. Delivery, takeaway, catering. Open daily 10am until late. Harem 157 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 015 868 104 Let us transport you to a world of opulence that inspires relaxation in the authentic and lavish setting of our Shisha lounge. Harem is the perfect place to find yourself again. Operation from 2pm to 3am. Petra 8 Street 288 (between St 51 & St 57) Tel: 023 666 3222 / 089 990 150 Authentic Arabic cuisine, ambiance and chef with rooftop shisha lounge. Located in the heart of BKK1. Special dining experiences with great costumes. Open daily from 10am – 11pm.

Cambodian

Khmer Surin 9 Street 57. Tel 012 887 320 Elegant restaurant featuring wood and silk décor with a tropical garden that serves Cambodian and Thai favourites. Dishes are well prepsred and large enough to share. K’NYAY The Terrace on 95, 43 Street 95 (corner of Street 348) Tel: 093 665 225. www.knyay.com Modern Khmer restaurant tucked away off Monivong Blvd, with a menu including a selection of freshly prepared vegan dishes, along with traditional Cambodian specialities. Offers a selection of cakes, ice creams and sorbets, using all vegan ingredients. Open 12-9pm (Tue to Fri), 7am-9pm (Sat & Sun), closed Monday.

midday sun too much. The cuisine is modern Khmer, with no MSG. Open 6am - 10pm. Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 (see also restaurants, French) Romdeng 74 Street 174, Phnom Penh Tel: 092 219 565 Romdeng serves Cambodian food that ranges from almost forgotten recipes from the provinces to contemporary creative Cambodian cuisine. It is set in a beautiful colonial building featuring wooden carvings, tables, chairs and unique lights all hand-made in Cambodia. All of this plus a pool, free WIFI, a family area and a gift shop means a visit is a must. Open daily from 11am-10:30pm (kitchen closes at 9.30pm).

Chinese

Emperors of China 19 Street 163 Tel: 097 929 2699 Up-market Chinese restaurant, popular with the capital’s large Chinese community, private dinning rooms, specializes in Peking duck and dim sum. Fortune Palace NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park Chinese restaurant with authentic Greater Chinese cuisine and all-youcan-eat Dim Sum buffet on Sundays. Open from 11am - 3pm, 5pm - 10pm. Fu Lu Zu Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 x 6613 Elegant Chinese restaurant specialising in contemporary Cantonese delicacies and dim sum with private rooms for intimate ambience. Open from 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm. Dim Sum weekend from 8am - 2.30pm. Hua Nam 753 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 364 005 Large Chinese restaurant that specialises in seafood and duck and has a good selection of wines, with VIP rooms. Open 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 10pm.

La Table Khmère 11E Street 278. Tel: 012 238 068 Taste the flavour of traditional Khmer specialities and fusion cuisine in a stylish ambience and atmosphere on Street 278. Also serving Western dishes. Open daily 11am to 11pm. www.la-table-khmere.com

Man Han Lou Restaurant 456 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 721 966 Micro-brewery with four types of German-style beer. Has extensive Chinese, Thai, Khmer and Vietnamese menus, as well as dim sum breakfast. Open from 6am - 10am.

Malis 136 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 221 022 www.malis-restaurant.com Beautiful modern Khmer restaurant with a courtyard set around narrow water channels and decorated with terracotta floor tiles. Has air-con rooms inside for those who find the

Sam Doo 56-58 Kampuchea Krom Tel: 023 218 773 The place for dim sum in Phnom Penh, baskets of steamed prawn dumplings, pork buns and more go for a pittance. The wonton soup and other tasty meals are a steal. Open 7am - 2am.


Xiang Palace InterContinental Phnom Penh 2/F, 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd. Tel: 023 424 888 x 3562 Xiang Palace is locally acclaimed for its authentic Cantonese cuisine and delicious dim sum, all prepared with the finest ingredients. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Yi Sang Chinese Restaurant 128F Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 922 www.almondhotel.com.kh Set on the ground floor of the Almond Hotel, this stylish restaurant specialises in Cantonese food and dim sum that fuses the traditional with the contemporary, including excellent dim sum. Open from 6.30am - 10am, 11.30am - 2pm and 5.30pm - 10pm – Dim Sum not served in the evening.

French

Armand’s The Bistro 33 Street 108. Tel: 015 548 966 A true bistro experience in a cosy wood-panelled space, despite the informal and relaxed ambience it has the menu to even satisfy high-rollers. Open Tuesday to Sunday 5pm 11.45pm. Brasserie du Port 49E Sisowath Quay, cnr Street 84 Tel: 066 821 224 Bistro featuring eclectic menu of haute cuisine mixed with pasta and ish specials. French classics including flambéed duck, pork filet mignon and home-made fois gras available at reasonable prices. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Brasserie’s long wooden bar is the perfect spot for enjoying a breeze and the restaurant’s comprehensive wine list. Open daily, 8am – 10pm. Comme à la Maison 13 Street 57. Tel: 012 951 869 www.commealamaisondelicatessen.com Sophisticated French restaurant with a beautiful outdoor terrace area at the front, yet secluded from the street. One of the best French kitchens in town. Small delicatessen at the back of the restaurant. Open daily from 6am - 10.30pm. K West 1 Street 154, cnr. Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 214 747 Stylish aircon bar and restaurant below the Amanjaya with an excelllent steak menu and good value happy hour from 6pm to 8pm Fridays. Now has a brasserie menu with daily specials. Also has free WiFi. Open 6.30am until midnight. La Creperie 12C Street 308. Tel: 023 640 7600 www.lacreperie.com.cn Serving Brittany-style crepes since 2007. La Marmite Cnr Streets 108 & 51. Tel: 012 391 746 This small, reasonably priced French bistro has two adjoining rooms (one non-smoking) creating a relaxed, cosy atmosphere. Serves excellent fish, steaks and offal as well as daily specials, for a taste of real home-cooked French cuisine. Open 11am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm. La Residence Restaurant 22/24 Street 214. Tel: 023 224 582 Fine dining on an international scale in this sophisticated restaurant, where French classics meet gourmet, modern cuisine. Open from 11.30am-2pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm. Le Bistrot 218, Street 184. Tel: 012 495 841, email information@institutfrançais-cambodge.

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com.Nestled inside the entirely renovated spaces of the Institut français, Le Bistrot will now be open for who wants to enjoy a coffee break or a convivial lunch and dinner. Le Bistrot is between the media library, cinema, exhibition gallery and garden of the Institut français. Open from Monday to Saturday from 8am-10pm. Le Gourmet NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822. Quality ingredients come together in beautiful presentation on the plate, with the luxury of the surroundings complemented by professional and attentive service. Open daily from 12pm-3pm and 6pm-10pm. Le Jardin 16 Street 360.Tel: 011 723 399 Beautiful shaded restaurant with large garden and spacious outdoor play area for kids with excellent ice cream. Open 8am - 10pm (closed Mondays). Le Vôtre caterer 9A, Street 178. Tel: 092 638 683/092 24 88 16 levotrecambodia@gmail.com Caterer specialising in fine French cuisine preparing both fresh and frozen meals for wholesale, private events and walk-in customers. Products include foie gras, terrines, salmon gravlax, French cheeses and deli goods. Open daily 7am - 7pm. Sunday 7am - 12pm. Restaurant Le Royal Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh dining. phompenh@raffles.com Treat yourself to the finest French & Khmer cuisine in one of Indochina’s most elegant restaurants. The Chef’s Degustation menu allows you to try a myriad of dishes in a single meal in a refined atmosphere. Private rooms are available on request. Open from 6.30pm-10.30pm. The Wine Restaurant 219 Street 19. Tel: 023 223 527 Excellent fine dining restaurant in the same grounds as Open Wine deli. The fresh food and extensive selection of wines make this one of the exclusive places to dine in town. Topaz 182 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 012 346 555/ 023 221 622 Sophisticated, air-con restaurant with outside dining, upstairs bar, wine shop, cigar room and private rooms. One of Phnom Penh’s finest restaurants. Has a popular piano bar, night club upstairs. Open 11am-2pm, 6pm-11pm. Van’s Restaurant 5 Street 102. Tel: 023 722 067 French fine-dining in a grand setting awaits at Van’s, located on the second floor of a well preserved colonial era building near the city’s Post Office. Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5pm-10.30pm.

Indian Sub-Continent

Dosa Corner 15 Street 51. Tel: 012 673 276 This small south Indian restaurant opened in January. True to its name it has a wide range of very good value dosa as well as thali and biryani dishes. Air-conditioned. Open 7am-10pm. East India 9 Street 114. Tel: 023 992 007 South Indian cuisine predominates in this pristine restaurant with excellent breads including nine types of dosa. Open 11am-2pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm.


Flavours of India 158 Street 63. Tel: 012 886 374, Relaxing Indian and Nepalese restaurant with friendly staff and a good range of dishes including good value vegetarian and meat thalis. Open 10am - 11pm. Indian Delight 115Eo Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 724 885 / 098 776 543 Delicious North Indian tastes served at a modest yet clean and bright on riverside. Opposite Titanic restaurant. Open everyday 11am – 1pm.

Indochine

Indochine NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park With a focus on Southeast Asian cuisine, Indochine offers tradition dishes from Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand in a sophisticated space. Open 11am - 11pm. Irrawaddi 24 Street 334. Tel: 012 979 510 Authentic Myanmar food at very reasonable prices in a clean setting with paintings of the Burmese countryside decorating the walls. Open 10am - 10pm, closed - Mondays. Lemongrass 14 Street 130. Tel: 023 222 705 A boutique Asian-themed restaurant with an intimate, casual ambiance featuring classical Thai and Khmer cuisine with affordable price. Known for authentic flavours and attractive presentation, only the best local produce and choice seafood and meats are prepared fresh daily. Open daily 10am - 10pm. Ngon 60 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 151 www.ngonpnh.com Open air restaurant that features a vast range of Vietnamese food in a garden environment. Meaning delicious, the ambience makes up for it. Pangea Fusion Restaurant NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Pan-Asian fusion restaurant with a western flair that specialises in allyou-can-eat dinner buffets. Open daily 6am - 10.30pm.

International

Aussie XL Café 205A Street 51. Tel: 023 301 301 Aussie style bistro food with quick lunch menu and a good selection of house wines and retail wines. Open 7am - 11pm. Botanico Gastro Bar 9B Street 29, Tel: 017 862 992 Botanico is located in its own habitat surrounded by over 2,000 plants and offers a provocative menu of tapas, salads, burgers & sandwich, and straightforward food. Open on Tue – Sun all day menu from 10.30am-8.30pm Brooklyn Pizza + Bistro 20 Street 123. Tel: 089 925 926 A slice of Brooklyn right here in Phnom Penh. In addition to authentic pizza, Brooklyn serves pastas, burgers, ribs, chicken wings and more. Byrd Cafe & Restaurant 23 Street 288. Tel: 023 997 255 Japanese run restaurant in BKK1 where comfort meets a good atmosphere. Guests can enjoy dishes including appetizers, salads,

grill, side menus and drinks. Open daily 11am-midnight. CABARET 159 Street 154, near Central Market Tel: 092 650 980 info@cabaret-restaurant.com Restaurant and lounge bar with live music. Enjoy trendy food, tapas, cocktails and wine in a modern setting encompassing two elegant areas, bar and patio. Fine and casual dining available. Live music four to five times a week, sumptuous variety of wine and cigars. Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal Tel: 023 981 888 Wicker armchairs and marble tables covered with crisp white tablecloths create the perfect place to relax and linger over a delightful alfresco breakfast, lunch or dinner. Western and Asian cuisines are available buffet-style or a la carte. Private rooms are available on request. Buffet from 6am - 10am, 12pm - 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm, A la carte from 11am - 11pm. Doors Restaurant 18, Street 47 & 84. Tel : 023 998 114 www.doorspp.com New tapas restaurant, with live music. Open 11am until late Duplex 3 Street 278, www.duplex.com.kh A trendy spot for expats and tourists to hang-out. It has a cafe, a restaurant, a bar and a club. All this is under one roof in the heart of the city (Wat Langka). Equinox 3a Street 278. Tel: 023 676 7593 www.equinox-cambodia.com marco@equinox-cambodia.com anthony@equinox-cambodia.com French-run bar and restaurant. International menu, pool tables, splitlevel bar. Art exhibitions each month and live music gigs most Saturdays. Bachata class on Tuesdays, Salsa class on Wednesday and swing nights on Thursdays. Open daily 11am – late. FCC Phnom Penh 363 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 724 014 The first stop for newcomers and it’s easy to see why. Set in a beautiful colonial house with sumptuous views across the river on one side and the National Museum to the other, it’s best to come at sunset when the streets below are most crowded, the cocktails are half price and draft beer goes for $1. Open daily from 7am to midnight. Fish Sisowath Quay, cnr of Street 108, Tel: 023 222 685 www.fishphnompenh.com Contemporary, modern restaurant specialising in all things oceanic. Menu includes everything from lobster through sushi to gourmet fish and chips for upmarket, but reasonable prices. Open 7am-late. Flavours Corner St 51 and St 282 Tel: 017 765 896 Relaxing restaurant and popular bar run by Quebecois with comfortable chairs that fall out onto the street. The mix of Asian and western cuisine has proved so popular that they have a copycat restaurant opposite. Open 7am - late . FOX Wine Bistro 104 Sothearos Blvd & St. 266. Tel: 098 78 99 61 Casual wine-dining. For passionate food and wine lovers who want an


unforgettable dining experience or even just a place to hang-out that’s unlike elsewhere in Phnom Penh. Serving simple yet thoughtful dishes and drinks in a comfortable, hip and trendy atmosphere. Friends the Restaurant 215 Street 13, Phnom Penh Tel: 012 802 072 Friends the Restaurant is a training restaurant run by Mith Samlanh, which has worked to build the futures of former street children and marginalised young people in Phnom Penh since 1994. Located near the National Museum, it is famous for its legendary frozen shakes and daiquiris and its delicious blend of Asian and Westernstyle tapas. Free WiFi available and a dog-friendly restaurant. Open daily from 11am – 10.30pm (kitchen closes at 9.30pm). Gasolina 56/58 Street 57. Tel: 012 373 009 The largest garden bar in town has an extensive menu. Crèche facilities make this a popular choice with families at weekends. Has regular events with live music and DJs, even fashion shows. Open from 8am - 12am. Hammok Garden 23 Street 288 between Street 63 & Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 997 255 We prepare BBQ Slate Lava grill made from Sakurajima volcano’s lava stone. It makes meat tasty, healthy and juicy. Also large space for parties and big screen TV for watching sports and movies. Open daily 5pm - 10pm. Irina Russian Restaurant 22 Street 29 Tel: 012 833 524/092 833 524 www.irinacambodia.com Russian restaurant of iconic Phnom Penh status. If you can walk out of the restaurant after hitting the vodkas then you are doing well. Open daily from 11am until the vodka runs out. Java Cafe & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 420 www.javaarts.org Great coffees, salads, mix-and-match sandwiches and juices served in an elegant setting. The upstairs terrace, overlooking the Independence Monument, is a good place to watch the chaos below, while the downstairs space is a great place for coffee and catching up on your emails. Has exhibitions both upstairs and down. Open 7am - 10pm. Jay’s Diner 69 Street 178, Tel: 023 213 930 www.the-artist-guesthouse.com Jay’s diner is offering some of New York’s best food. The decor is a twist of a classic American diner and a bistro. Monday to Saturday 7 am - 10pm. Sunday 7am - 4pm. Closed Sunday evening. La Coupole Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200. www.sofitel.com Casual and authentic Indochinese and French cuisine with live cooking by chefs in an open kitchen concept. Offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and the Sunday brunch, all set in a stunning restaurant with high ceilings and natural light. La Croisette 241 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 220 554 Riverfront restaurant with an ample outside dining area screened off by trees that serves good, reasonablypriced food, also has a cool, air-con

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restaurant inside. Often arranges special events. Open 7am until late. La Plaza Spanish Tapas Bar 22b Street 278, nr cnr Street 57 Tel: 012 825 443 Recreates to perfection the best known and most delicious Spanish tapas, making of seafood Paella its signature dish. Tapas are the result of hundreds of years of Spanish culinary history and evolution. Simple, tasty and healthy dishes have become a standard to be enjoyed with friends while drinking large amounts of sangría. Open 11am - 2pm,5pm - 10pm. All day on the weekend. LA ROSE Restaurant 164b Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 211 130 / 080 900 900 www.larose.com.kh Revive your strength and restore your health with La Rose Restaurant’s healthy option menu. Cozy ground floor restaurant with experienced chefs serving both Asian and Western cuisine. Latin Quarter Cnr Street 178 and Street 19 Tel: 093 319 081. Latin restaurant and bar that serves excellent tapas and mains with extra salsa. Beautiful courtyard often hosts live music and salsa dancing while the air-con restaurant is available for private hire. Open from breakfast until the music stops. Lime Restaurant + Bar 79F Street 128 Tel: 023 998 608/ 610 info@lebizhotel.com, www.lebizhotel.com Located in Lebiz Hotel Lime serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, offering a stylish mix of Asian and western favourites with a focus on fresh, healthy and local ingredients, with regular changes to the menu. Lone Pine Cafe 14 Street 282 (Free delivery) Tel: 078 949 398/095 949 398 Colossal burgers, Memphis hunk ribs, Cajun gumbo, spicy chili, root beer barbecue pulled pork, po boys, wings, big salads, best beer list, great bourbons and fantastic margaritas. Open daily from 11.30am – 2pm, 6pm-10pm (evenings only on Sunday). Lotus Blanc 152 Street 51. Tel: 017 602 251 Run by local NGO Pour un Sourire d’Enfant, this centrally located training restaurant has a monthly changing lunch menu as well as a la carte Khmer dishes. Serves both Asian and continental breakfast. Open Monday – Saturday, 7am - 10 pm. Ludwik German Restaurant 28 Street 350 (near Toul Sleng Museum) Tel: 084 444 888 Ludwik is a German restaurant and authentic beer garden where you can hold major events, celebrate with friends or simply relax and enjoy an ice-cold beer under the shade of the trees. We serves Paulaner (Munich) and Cambodian beers, alongside a range of German and regional cuisine. Open daily from 11am until 10 pm. Meat & Drink Street 308 alleyway. Bar and grill. A casual setting for drinks and a bite to eat. No reservations. Open Tuesday Sunday, 5pm - 11pm. Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 023 222 275


Cool east-meets-west decor and a chic menu offering tapas, starters and mains, comprehensive cocktail menu, favourite among which is the Espresso Martini, Metro also offers a range of classic breakfasts and an elegant lunch spot with free wifi in an air-con and smoke-free (until 10pm) atmosphere. Open daily 9:30am - 1am. Mike’s Burger House Russian Blvd, inside Sokimex Petrol Station. Tel: 012 633 971 Hugely popular burger bar that serves food with plastic knives and forks and equally plastic French fries with cheese sauce. Ideal for those who believe that American culture starts with a Mc. New York Steakhouse 264 Street 63 cnr Mao Tse Tung Blvd. Tel: 023 987 500, www.steakhouse.com.kh Indulge in a seductive dining experience in the famed Phnom Penh Steak restaurant. The innovative menu features New-York Steakhouse signature prime cuts of beef charred to perfection accompanied by decadent sides and desserts. Open Daily from 11am-2pm and 13pm-midnight. Ocean 11 Street 288. Tel: 017 766 690 European managed Mediterranean restaurant that dishes up some of the best fish and seafood in town. Try the red snapper or the squid with rocket. Often has exhibitions around the understated walls. One More Pub 16E Street 294. Tel: 017 327 378 (see bars) Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023990321. www.paddyrice.net (see bars) Public House Street 2401/2. Tel: 017 770 754 Offering fresh, simple and delicious cuisine set in a modern take on a pub. Open seven days, 11.30am until late (open from 10.30am for Sat and Sun brunch). Regency Cafe InterContinental Phnom Penh 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd. Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 3603 Regency Cafe features sumptuous international and Asian buffets as well as a la carte dining for the most discerning palates. Open daily 6am-10.30pm Restaurant Tell 13 Street 90. Tel: 023 430 650 Up-market eatery that re-creates the genuine feel of an Alpine chalet, has a spacious indoor restaurant and outdoor terrace with rotisserie and bar. European menu with imported steaks, fondue, raclette and an extensive wine list. Open 11.30am - 2pm, 5pm - 11pm. Rising Sun 20 Street 178. Tel: 012 970 718 (see bars) Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 012 277 882/ 023 213 898 Popular restaurant with expats and tourists alike mainly due to its large

outdoor terrace area to view the river. Serves a mixture of Asian and western food with an emphasis on German cuisine. Has rock music videos and a pool table in the music bar at the back. Open from 7am - 2am. Riverhouse Asian Bistro 157 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 212 302 www.riverhousecambodia.com Well known as one of the oldest French colonial buildings on the riverfront with breezy views along the Tonle Sap & Mekong River. The elegant restaurant and bar offers a special beverage menu, featuring delectable cocktails, quality wines, single malts and freshly squeezed juices. Open daily from 10am - 2am Samba Brazilian Steakhouse 64 Sihanouk Blvd. (Nr Independence Monument). Tel: 023 222 599 Experience the unique Brazilian Churrasco way of cookingwith a large variety of meats skewered and roasted to perfection and served piping hot direct from the skewers to your plate! Open daily 11am - 3pm, 5pm - 10:30pm. Stella Restaurant 55 Street 75 Tel: 099 574 188 / 012 735 002 A cosy restaurant located near Wat Phnom, Stella serves pizzas, grilled food and Asian cuisine in a peaceful garden atmosphere. Steve’s Steakhouse 8 Street 240. Tel: 023 987 320 Longstanding restaurant specialising in local grain-fed beef as well as a large variety of imported steaks, hamburgers, ribs and Greek cuisine. Has a terraced lounge with pool tables upstairs as well as a sports bar with large screen TV and happy hour from 12pm to 7pm. Open daily 11am - 10.30pm. Stonegrill 649 Sisovath Quay. Tel: 023 999 950 www.stonegrill.com.kh Stonegrill offers a unique interactive dining experience where diners meals are served cooking at the table on a natural volcanic stones heated to 400C (752F). Open daily 11am - midnight. T-Bone Steak House 392 Monivong Boulevard & Street 360 Tel: 012 900 138 Contemporary restaurant serving a premium selection of both imported and Cambodian beef, in a sophisticated air-conditioned setting – a carnivore’s delight. Open 10am to 10pm Tepui Restaurant Lounge Chinese House, 45 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 991 514/092 553 300 Located on the second floor of Chinese House, Tepui offers a mix of Mediterranean and South American small plates with Asian accents.The skilled Venezuelan chef is considered one of the city’s best culinary talents. Open Mon to Sat, from 5pm until late. The Exchange/The Vault 28 Street 47. Tel: 078 886 889 Large colonial mansion contains The Vault, Phnom Penh’s first private member’s club for thoses who have $1000 to burn. Underneath, the Exchange has elegany exposed brickwork and low lighting as well as an impressive fusion menu. Open daily, 10am - midnight.

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The Quay 277 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 894 Rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to enjoy a drink during half price 4pm-8pm happy hour. Food is a mix of tapas and more substantial offerings, including an excellent duck confit. Open daily 7am – 11pm. The Lost Room 43 Street 21 Tel: 078 700 001 A hidden gem, with eclectic food in an urbane environment. This small restaurant and bar owned by the former owners of Talkin To A Stranger offers small plates of food for sharing. Using imported and local foods, the menu encompasses global foods and unique cocktail and wine listings at reasonable prices. Caring and experienced staff makes for a pleasant evening. Come find The Lost Room and ring for directions. Open from 5pm Monday to Saturday. Kitchen closes at 10pm. Closed Sundays. Lunch by appointment only. The Shop 102 1B Street 102 (Inside Central Mansion) Tel.: 077 666 115 The Shop restaurant proposes a large range of fresh bread, pastries, chocolates, Western and Asian food. At night time, the atmosphere becomes cozier and offers a selection of fines wines and cocktails to accompany the dinner menu. Customers have access to the nearby swimming pool, making it the perfect place for families. The Taste Khmer Dessert & Café The Taste Khmer Desert & Café collection which appeals to your eyes and mouth you will be charmed by lovely Khmer Dessert. 9 Street 310, Phnom Penh, Tel: 023219498 / 012476012, axchoeun@yahoo.com Open daily from 7am – 9:30pm. vKirirom Pine View Kitchen Tel: 078 777 284, www.vkirirom.com The restaurant is surrounded by pine trees, located in Kirirom National Park. Our chef’s will serve you special Khmer and western dishes, overlooking this beautiful nature. Open daily from 7am to 10pm. Zino Wine Bar and Restaurant 12 Street 294. Tel: 023998 519 FB: www.facebook.com/zinowinebar Zino offers a comprehensive wine list by the glass and bottle, professionally made cocktails and a constantly evolving Mediterranean

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and Asian menu. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week. Kitchen closes at 11pm.

Italian

APERITIVO Sothearos Boulevard, opposite Wat Botum (used to be Dolce Vita) Giampaolo Chiarion gchiarion@gmail.com, aperitivo.italin1@gmail.com Aria D’Italia 41EO Street 310. Tel: 012 840 705 Cute little Italian pizzeria tucked away between Street 57 and Street 63. Well-priced lunch set menu and homemade ravioli. Home delivery available. Open 10.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm. Bistro Romano NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Best known for its sumptuous Sunday Prosecco Brunch, this stylised Italian restaurant in the NagaWorld complex specialises in Italian cuisine. Open daily 11am - 11pm. Cafe Monivong Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Tel: 023 981 888 Indulge in home made antipasti, fresh prepared pasta and risotto as well as oven-baked, crispy pizzas and pair it all with the finest selection of Italian wines, every Saturday night 6pm - 10pm. Caravan Restaurant and Fine Dining 68 Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 023 966 600 Indulge in fine dining and fresh Italian food, from home-made pasta and tiramasu to American-imported lobster and prime kobe steak. A range of wines, whiskeys and cigars are also on offer. Open daily, from 10am to 11pm. Da Sandro 162 Street 63, near Sihanouk Blvd Tel: 010644987. www.sandropanini.com contacts@sandropanini.com Daily homemade authentic Italian sandwiches in the heart of Phnom Penh. Delicious cold cuts and cheeses directly imported from Italy and fresh baked bread. Open 7 days, 11am - 9pm. Do Forni Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 Sophisticated Italian diner set in the grounds of the Sofitel hotel, dishes up much more than your basic pizza and pasta. Excellent range of


wines, dimmed lighting and plush surroundings make this an excellent romantic meal for two option. Open daily 6.30pm - 10pm. Genova Italian Restaurant 20 Street 118. Tel: 012 390 039 This small restaurant has the feel of an Italian trattoria with food just like mamma made. The spaghetti al pesto Genovese is its signature dish. Good range of meat and fish dishes as well as some Khmer dishes. Open daily 10am - midnight. Italian House 2 Street 312 Tel: 092 230 207 Italian chef. Wooden fire oven. Pizzaeria, antipasti, pasta, salads, desserts. We offer delivery and catering around BKK I area. Open daily from 5:30pm – 10:30pm. La Volpaia 20–22 Street 13. Tel: 023 992 739 Part of a global pizzeria chain that includes Florence, Tokyo, Seoul and Phnom Penh, the cuisine is excellent with pizza and pasta cooked fresh in front of your eyes. Limoncallo 81E0 Sisowath Quay Tel: 081 800 210 / 081 800 240 Authentic Italian cuisine with pasta, risotto and pizzas prepared in the traditional way and baked in a blazing wood-fired oven. Open daily 11:30am- 2:30pm, 6pm- 10:30pm Luna 6C Street 29. Tel 023 220 895 Stunning garden courtyard with day beds and couches as well as outdoor tables and chairs or air-conditioned interior. Excellent homemade pasta, woodfired pizza and contemporary Italian cuisine. Great selection of wine from climate controlled cellar. Now also offering brunch on weekends. Open 11am-11pm Mon-Fri and 9am–11pm Sat & Sun. Pasta & Vino 45 Street 288. Tel: 086 314 400 Cosy Italian spaghetteria that specialises in well-priced authentic Italian pasta and wines in a smokeless air-con environment. Open daily 12pm - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm. Pop Café da Giorgio 371 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 562 892 Sophisticated, small Italian restaurant located next to the FCC that serves light, contemporary Italian cuisine including fresh pasta and pizzas. Delivery service now available at yourphnompenh. com last orders at 9.30pm. Open daily 11.30am - 2.30pm, 6pm - 10pm. Terrazza 1c Street 282. Tel: 023 214 660 www.terrazza.asia Experience Italy in Phnom Penh. Fine Italinan restaurant and Deli shop. Open daily 12pm-10pm, Deli shop: 9am-9pm

Japanese & Korean

Fusion Sushi Cnr. Streets 47 & 84 Tel: 023 986 114 Located inside Cara Hotel this beautifully decorated restaurant dishes up excellent Japanese and Korean food. Hachi Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 ext.: 6612 A taste of Japan in a Zen

atmosphere with tatami rooms and sushi bar. Open daily, 11.30am 2.30pm, 6.30pm - 10.30pm. Kan Ji Japanese Restaurant 128f Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 016 318 383 / 016 312 828. Kan Ji is three floors of Japanese culinary delight in a bright and modern setting. Open for lunch and dinner, it features a stylish mix of ancient and modern creative cuisine. Open daily, 11.30am – 2.30pm, 5.30pm – 10.30pm. Le Seoul 62 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 012 971 516 Popular up-market South Korean restaurant specialising in BBQ, each table is equipped with its own charcoal burner, with all beef imported from the U.S. Open daily, 11am - 2.30pm, 5pm - 10pm. Mr. Lee Garden Restaurant 44 Street 172, opposite Pontoon Club. Tel: 017 384 772/010 254 162 Email: 1559835@naver.com Set around bustling street 172, Mr. Lee Garden restaurant serves international cuisine, especially Korean food, cooked by Chef Mr. Lee. You can find various foods with affordable prices before or after the dance floor. Open daily from 7am – 11pm. Ninja Dining & Bar 14B Street 278. Tel: 088 861 623 Traditional Japanese cuisine including sushi, ramen, BentoBox. Japanese chefs prepare authentic dishes amid a great atmosphere. Open daily 11.30am - 2pm, 5pm12am. Origami 88 Sothearos Bvd. Tel: 012 968 095 Up-market, contemporary Japanese restaurant with a spacious air-con area downstairs and four private rooms upstairs. Specialises in sushi and tempura, and has Asahi, Kirin and Sapporo beers. Open daily 11.30am - 2pm, 5.30pm - 9.30pm. Rahu 159 Sisowath Quay. Tel 023 215 179 Stunning, upscale atmosphere with a mix of modern Chinese décor, high ceilings, muted colors and rich woods. Japanese food takes the main stage but there is also Khmer and Western fusion cooking. A good place to go late night for sushi or a bowl of congee. Open daily 5pm-2am. Shangri-La 477 Sisowath Quay opposite Cambodiana Hotel Tel: 077 773 022, www.facebook. com/ramen.shangrila Japanese noodle bar serves the best Ramen from Hokkaido, Japan. You can taste Japanese special soup and noodle collaboration like eating in Japan with affordable price. Open daily from 11am - 3pm. Shiro-Fukurou 37 Street 310, Tel: 077 773 022 www.facebook.com/shirofukurou Shiro-Fukurou is the special Japanese soup restaurant! The soup made by Japanese chef, cannot be tasted in any other restaurant. Open daily from 11:00am-11:00pm. Udon Café Green Bowl 29B Street 288. Tel: 086 426 530 Freshly made Sanuki-style udon noodles offer a real taste of Japan. Noodles and accompanying soups and sauces from are prepared from scratch using traditional methods

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imbibe

The Pope’s New House Darren Gall Lovers of richly flavoured, full-bodied red wines have long been drawn to France’s most famous wine region, Bordeaux. However, it was a Bordeaux exodus that led to the creation of one of the most complex, exotic and interesting red wines to ever come out of France. Here was a wine said to have the body of Bordeaux combined with the aromas and complexity of Burgundy and yet it cost a fraction of the price of either. In 1305, a year after the death of Benedict XI, Raymond Bertrand de Got, the archbishop of Bordeaux, was announced as Pope Clement V. A French Pope, Clement V was reluctant to move to Rome; instead, when he left Bordeaux in 1309 he took the Holy Roman Curia to Avignon, in the south east of France. Just a few kilometers north of Avignon on the banks of the Rhone River, local bishops had cultivated vines to produce a bit of wine for their own consumption. The next of the Avignon Popes was Pope John XXII, he regularly drank the wines a little to the north. He also promoted them and encouraged improved viticultural practices in the region. In 1317, one year after becoming Pope, John XXII ordered the construction of a huge castle which stands as an iconic symbol of the region. Initially the wines produced during this time were referred to as ‘Vin du Pape’ (loosely, Pope’s

Wine) and later as the castle took shape, Chateauneuf du Pape which translates to ‘Castle of the New Pope’. The ruins of the castle can still be seen atop the commune’s hill today. The region is famous for its rocky vineyards with large pebbles known as ‘galets’, littering the ground and forming a blanket across the vineyards. These quartzite pebbles - worn smooth when part of the ancient river bed - trap the daytime heat and release it at night, allowing for even and optimal ripening of the fruit. Eighteen different grape varieties are permitted in the production of Chateauneuf du Pape, however, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre are the most commonly used and make up the bulk of the majority of blends. The best reds in the region are famously long lived, full bodied, rich, complex and powerful. Ripe plum and red fruits are wrapped in fine tannins and overlaid with briary notes, herbs, violets, spices and game. Whilst no longer dirt cheap, Chateaunuef du Pape’s best wines represent exceptional value given their quality and price, especially in comparison to Bordeaux and Burgundy. The region’s must try wines are produced by Vieux Telegraphe, Chateau Beaucastel, Chateau Rayas and are well worth the trouble and coin to seek out.

Darren Gall has spent a quarter of a century involved in virtually every aspect of the wine industry and the passionate pursuit of the next great bottle continues. gall.darren@yahoo.com

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and fresh ingredients. Open from 11am-2.30pm and 5.30pm-9pm. Closed every 2nd Wednesday. Yuzu 1 Street 360. Tel: 095 600 400. Open daily from 11am to 10pm Specialising in ramen, tempura and makisushi in chic surroundings.

Mexican & Tex-Mex

Alley Cat Café Off Street 19 (side street behind Royal Art School) Tel: 012 306 845 Small, friendly patio café serving good Mexican food and claiming to have the biggest burgers in town. Hard to find, Alley Cat is tucked down an alley at the back of the National Museum, the first on the right if you are coming from Street 178. California II 79 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 503 144 American-style bar with some of the best Mexican food in town, the excellent pool table and great tunes make this a good place to while away a few hours on the riverfront. Open 24/7 with good rooms upstairs. Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 222 502 A mainstay of the riverside scene, this is a popular meeting place for local expats with a large selection of Mexican beers and tequilas, and sinfully good margaritas. Serves good Mexican fare, and features photographs that capture the changing face of Cambodia. Kitchen open 3pm - 10:30pm. Closed Saturdays. Freebird 69 Street 240. Tel: 023 224 712 Aircon American bar with neon lighting, a variety of memorabilia, comfortable seats and rock music. International menu with good lunch offers, an excellent range of bottled sauces, excellent International, Mexican food and burgers. Be prepared for some good solid R&R. Open 7am - midnight. Taqueria Corona 14E Street 51 (btwn Sihanouk Blvd and Street 242) Tel: 089 281 626 / 012 629 986 Enjoy our mexican specialties, barbacoa, al pastor, texas chile, carnitas, pollo and carne asoda in our festive dining room. Open daily from11.30am - 2pm, 6pm - 10pm (Sunday evenings only).

Vegetarian

K’NYAY (see restaurants Cambodian) The Vegetarian 158 Street 19 Tel: 077 900 210 / 012 905 766 With a lush garden space in the heart of Phnom Penh, The Treez provides a relaxing dining experience. Whether it be amok, curry or tom yam, The Treez, creates vegetarian versions of popular Cambodian, Indian and Thai dishes. Open 10:30am - 8:30pm, closed Sundays. Vego’s 3E0 Street 51 & 21b Street 294 Tel: 012 984 596 Salad bar offering bagels, salads and wraps with a wide array of super fresh toppings. Choose from readymade or d.i.y. options. Also on offer are a vegetarian soup of the day as well as fresh-squeezed juices, yogurt and granola.

Cafés

AlexCAFE 37 Street 123 corner Street 460 Tel: 012 343 994/070 344 353 AlexCAFE provides green environment for guests to sip Cambodian coffee and taste a selection of Khmer dishes. Stay awake & fresh at AlexCAFE with our promotion noodles and iced coffee for only $2, with free Wi-Fi. Art Café 37 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 012 834 517 Elegant bistro in the style of a European coffee house is now transposed to the Meta House with regular classical music performances. Artease Street 310 (between 51 & 57) Ms. Bo, Manager Tel: 012 886 615 Blue Pumpkin 245 Sisowath Quay and at Monument Books on Norodom Blvd Tel: 023 998 153 Siem Reap’s favourite café also offers multiple locations in Phnom Penh, serving breakfast sets, Asian and Western entrées and an array of ice cream flavours in air-conditioned comfort. Open daily from 6am - 11pm. Brown Coffee & Bakery 17 Street 214, and other locations throughout they city. Tel: 023 217 262 Stylish, locally owned café with bakery on the premises serves a variety of coffees and pastries, with the green tea latte a house speciality. Open 7.30am - 8pm. Café El Mundo 219 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 520 775 Affordable and stylish riverside café and restaurant with adjacent apartments for short-term hire. Seating available on the mezzanine lounge, groundfloor restaurant and on the streetside terrace. Open 6.30am - 10.30pm. Café Le Point Tel: 012 927 643 Enjoy the cosy and relaxed atmosphere under a big mango tree. Located near KFC on Norodom Bvd, next to La Clef de Sol shop. Healthy, natural and delicious. Open Mon Sat, from 7am to 7pm. Café Yejj 170 Street 450, Tel: 012 543 360 / 092 600 750 Quiet, cosy café serving bistro-style western cuisine, with extensive range of coffees, pasta dishes, pannini and wraps and fabulous cheesecake making this an ideal spot to escape the bustle of the nearby Russian Market. Open every day from 7am - 9pm. Coffee Room 385 Street 215. Tel: 098 518 888 The first coffee house in Phnom Penh to have an electronic menu, at the Coffee Room you simply tap in your order and wait for your order to arrive. Serves coffees, juices. Pastries and breakfast. Open daily from 7.30am - 6pm. Cross Town Café 193 Street 29. Tel: 017665204 Japanese-owned restaurant with welcoming wooden interior. which spreads from floor to bar. A recently opened venue serving traditional Japanese cuisine with an added twist, the restaurant aims to add new dishes to its menu every week. Open daily from 11am - 10pm.


in the kitchen

Duck Eggs Rebecca Luria-Phillips Jamie Oliver told me to do it. As a follower of his food religion, I am slowly transitioning towards farm fresh items over their processed brethren. A couple of year ago, he challenged his fan base to opt for duck eggs over chicken eggs – when in season – as a way to make dishes richer with more concentrated nutrition (and cholesterol!). Never one to back down from a culinary dare, I set up for an ambitious chicken vs duck egg showdown. Duck eggs promise richness due to their larger, and fattier, yolk. Paradoxically, they also promise fluffiness due to the greater albumen, or egg white, content. Rich and light… sounding better and better. With a pathological addiction to baking to feed, I temporarily transformed my modest cook space into a test kitchen with two recipes in hand: banana cake and brownies. Duck eggs sounded like just the thing to achieve the perfect cake-to-fudge ratio for my Kampot pepper brownies. I bought both types of eggs at the Boeung Keng Kang market and was told by the vendor they came from Kandal province. Their size was nearly identical (60g) with the chicken egg, unexpectedly, weighing 3 grams more than the duck egg. The chicken egg yolk size was similar to a ping pong ball whereas the duck egg yolk was more like a golf ball. By comparison, the chicken eggs from the supermarket weigh 42 grams. The larger BKK market chicken egg’s size is due, most likely, to growth

hormones in the chicken feed. I substituted duck eggs in my recipes on a one to one ratio with the chicken eggs. The outcome was modest. In terms of fluffiness, the two versions of banana cake and brownies came out equal. But in terms of richness, duck eggs squeaked out a win, especially with the brownies. In my opinion, brownies should hover partially between moist chocolate cake and rich fudge, but trending towards the cake side of the spectrum. Duck egg Kampot pepper brownies delivered the perfect ratio. If you don’t have duck eggs on hand, reduce the flour by 1 tablespoon. Kampot Pepper Brownies: 200g dark chocolate, 100g unsalted butter, 250g caster sugar, 3 duck eggs, 120g plain flour, 30g cocoa, 1 tsp baking powder, 1 ½ tsp cinnamon, 2 tsp Kampot Pepper Preheat oven to 180C. Line a 22cm baking dish with parchment paper on all sides. Using a microwave or double boiler, melt chocolate and butter together and allow to cool. In a separate bowl, while chocolate/butter is cooling, mix together with a fork flour, cocoa, baking powder, cinnamon and Kampot pepper. Once chocolate and butter are cool, whisk eggs and sugar together until light and fluffy, then fold in chocolate and butter. Add flour mixture to bowl and stir until just combined. Pour into baking dish and bake for 30 min. Allow to cool completely (to ease slicing) and try to eat just one!

Rebecca Luria-Phillips is writer and editor of the food website realfoodcambodia.com, which is about building connections to the foods we eat in Cambodia. Questions and comments can be sent to beccaluria@gmail.com

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Cupcake Rush 23A Street 57/ 306. Tel: 087 696 988.Open daily from 8am to 8pm. Sweet treats galore at this cute, specialist cupcake shop. Daughters of Cambodia 65E0 Street 178. Tel: 077 657 678 www.daughtersofcambodia.org The cafe, called Sugar ‘n Spice, serves light lunches, a few main courses, home baked goods, desserts, coffee and some original smoothies. The cafe is a place for vocational training, where trainees will train and then have the opportunity to graduate into working in top end restaurants and hotels. Value for money. Free Wifi. There’s also a shop selling clothing, accessories and jewellery made on site. Or relax in the spa which offers head, shoulder, face and foot treatments. Gloria Jean’s Corner of Street 51 & Street 310, Tel : 092 404 365 Sisowath Quay along Phnom Penh Port, Tel: 092 555 973 Canadia Tower Monivong Blvd., Tel: 092 555 937 Popular cafe serving hot and cold drinks and snacks. Java Café & Gallery 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 420 (see restaurants, international) Kiriya Café No.174, St.51 Cnr St.370 Tel: 016 363 730. This Japanese café chain offers good locally sourced coffee, delicious desserts and a relaxing atmosphere. Open daily 6am - 2am. Café Tin Tin Tango A cosy restaurant located in the Toul Kork area Serves Asian and Western food including bakery and apartment services. Open daily from 6:30am – 10:00pm. 38 Street 592, Toul Kork Tel: 023 982 109 / 012 808 816 The Deli 13 Street 178. Tel: 012 851 234 Chic delicatessen, bakery and small restaurant serving excellent bread and pastries, with take-away menu. Open from 7am to 9pm (closed Sundays). The Shop 39 Street 240, Tel: 092 955 963 / 023 986 964 Stylish café, with a wide range of fresh bread, tempting patisseries and juices, excellent salads and sandwiches. Crowded at lunchtime, but the small, cool courtyard at the back creates a perfect haven from the sun. Has a Chocolate Shop three doors along, and a second outlet in Tuol Kork. Open 7am to 7pm (Mon. to Sat, 7am to 3pm Sun.)

Bars

Apros Pub 21Eo Street 322 (between 51 & 57) Mr. Sothea Tel: 097 6085 050 Aristocrat Cigar Bar NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Club aimed at attracting wealthy expats and Khmers who like a good cigar and glass of wine. Not as stuffy as you might imagine with cigars from $10. Open daily from noon to midnight. AQVARIVM Bar 23 Street 55 Corner Street 254, Tel: 077 536 342 Drop by for Happy Hour drinks and nibbles from 5:00-9:00 PM.

Available for special occasion and group discounts. AQVARIVM: Drink like a fish! Bar.sito Street 2401/2. Tel: 077 960 413 Cocktail bar, serving especially designed cocktails, ice-cold beers, red and white wines, champagnes and spirits. Open seven days, 5pm until late. Cadillac Bar and Grill 219 E0 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 011 713 567 Riverfront air-con bar and restaurant. Has good American cuisine as well as a riverfront vantage. California II 79 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 503 144 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Cantina 347 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 222 502 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Chez Rina Cocktail Lounge 6 Street 98, Round the corner of Brown’s Riverside Tel: 017 259 955 Phnom Penh’s coolest lounge in a beautifully restored 1890s space in the historic old French Quarter around the Post Office. The focus is on cocktails and conversation hosted by the lovely Chanrina. Open Monday - Saturday 5pm - 12pm. Chow 277 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 894 Contemporary and sophisticated riverfront restaurant that serves Southeast Asian cuisine, a wide range of cocktails, juices and Illy coffee. The rooftop deck with spectacular views of the river is a great place to have a drink during its half-price 4pm to 8pm happy hour. Open daily from 7am to 11pm. Elephant Bar Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 Flamboyant carpet, comfortable wicker chairs and hotel pianist provide a sense of a time gone by, you can imagine Jackie Kennedy drinking here. Its many signature cocktails, including the femme fatale make this a popular place with expats especially during the two-for-one happy hours (4pm to 8pm). Open 2pm to midnight from Monday to Friday. Saturday and Sunday from 12pm to midnight. Elephant Sky Bar 134Z 7th & 8th Floor Patio Hotel Street 51 (on the corner St. 288) Tel: 023 997 900/Ext. 701 www.patio-hotel.com Elephant Sky Bar has set up on the roof top of Patio Hotel with a sky pool where you can see a fabulous view of the town. It is perfect for business talks and relaxation during lunch or after work. Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner from 6.30am – 11pm. Equinox 3A Street 278, Tel: 012 586 139 / 092 791 958 (see Restaurants, International) FCC 363 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 724 014 (see Restaurants, International) Freebird 69 Street 240. Tel: 023 224 712 (see Mexican & Tex-Mex restaurants) Howie’s Bar 32 Street 51 Air-conditioned and open until very very


late, this is the Heart’s unofficial chill-out bar although the sound system could give its neighbour a run for its money. Tends to be a popular late night hangout, especially around the ‘mini’ pool table. Open 7pm to 6am. K West 1 Street 154 (Cnr. Sisowath Quay), Tel: 023 214 747 (see Restaurants, French) Le Bar Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, 26 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 999 200 A modern colonial style lobby bar with a fine selection of comfort food, tapas, champagnes, wines, premium spirits and large selection of coffees and teas. Le Moon Cnr of Sisowath Quay and Street 154 Tel: 023 214 747 Rooftop terrace bar at Amanjaya Hotel has arguably the view of the river of any of the city’s rooftop bars. Full bar and small food menu, while the service is slow enough to afford you sufficient time to soak up the view. Liquid 3B Street 278. Tel: 023 720 157 Welcoming open air bar on golden street run by the same owner as Flavours. Has one of the best pool tables in town with happy hour from 5pm to 8pm. Lobby Lounge 296 Mao Tse Tung Blvd (InterContinental Hotel) Tel: 023 424 888 An elegant lounge situated in the lobby of the Intercontinental Hotel. Reasonable prices and excellent service. Open daily from 10am – 11:30pm. Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd, opposite Phnom Penh Centre Tel: 023 218 987/010 312 333 www.meta-house.com Multi-media arts centre established by German film-maker Nico Mesterham has a very cool bar. Open from 2pm till midnight. Closed Mondays. Metro Café Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Tel: 023 222 275 (see Restaurants International) One More Pub 16E Street 294. Tel: 017 327 378 English-style bar with comfortable wooden bar stools. No hip hop or techno, only great classic 60s & 70s music. Has terracotta-tiled terrace and 3 guest rooms upstairs. Open from 5pm to late, happy hour from 5pm to 7pm. Closed Sundays. Paddy Rice 213-217 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023990321 www.paddyrice.net Irish sports bar on riverside with big screen live sports, serves home cooked western and Asian favourites alongside a fully stocked bar including Guinness and a fine selection Irish whiskeys with daily happy hour from 4pm to 8pm. Often has live music events and a weekly pub quiz. Open 7.30am to late. Rising Sun 20 Street 178. Tel: 012 970 718 English-style pub with reliable breakfast, meat pies and hamburgers. Has a regular following around the bar at night especially on Fridays. Great posters of British films and TV classics adorn the walls. Ideal for

that touch of nostalgia and good fish and chips – though not wrapped in a newspaper. Open daily from 7am until late. Riverside Bistro Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148, Tel: 012 277 882 / 023 213 898 (see Restaurants International) Seibur Street 308. Tel: 092 839 440 Aperitif room. Open seven days, from 5pm to 11pm. Sharky Bar 126 Street 130. Tel: 012 228 045 , www.sharkybar.blogspot.com Countless pool tables and a large balcony to look out over the street. Guaranteed to be lively – a place where anything can happen, especially if you get a bit too close to the local clientele. Serves good Mexican food, and has frequent live music. Open 4pm to 2am, take away 5pm til late. The Chinese House 128 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 356 399 Decadent cocktail bar set in beautiful old Chinese house. Has art exhibitions, film nights and parties downstairs and opulence upstairs. Open from 6pm until late, closed on Tuesdays. The Tap Room Kingdom Breweries 1748 National Road 5. Tel: 023 430 180 www.kingdombreweries.com Sate of the art European brewery specialising in premium pilsner. Tours of the facility are organised on a regular basis, culminating in frothy cold ones at the brewery’s bar overlooking the Tonle Sap. Zeppelin Bar 109C Street 51. Tel: 012 881 181 Over 1,000 vinyl albums played by stone-faced DJ owner in small bar next to the infamous Walkabout. Remarkably good food considering the setting, especially late at night. Try the dumplings. Open daily 5pm - 4am.

Wine Bars

Bouchon Wine Bar 3-4 Street 246. Tel: 077 881 103 Sophisticated wine bar with a very French ambience and a wide range of French wines and bar food. Often has music as well as a mellow jazz sound track. Open noon until midnight. Open Wine 219 Street 19. Tel: 023 233 527 Large wine shop and deli with wellpriced wines from around the world. Has outside dining area. Open daily 7am - 11pm. Zino Wine Bar and Restaurant 12 Street 294. Tel: 023998 519 FB: www.facebook.com/zinowinebar Zino offers a comprehensive wine list by the glass and bottle, professionally made cocktails and a constantly evolving Mediterranean and Asian menu. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week. Kitchen closes at 11pm.

Gay-Friendly

Arthur & Paul Males Bar and Spa 27 Street 71, BKKI Tel. 023 212 814/077 892 256, www.arthurandpaul.com The first gay (men-only) Spa-BoutiqueHotel-Restaurant-Bar in Phnom Penh. For everyone who would like to relax after a harassing day of work or intensive

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Sunday - Thursday 9pm – 2:30am, Friday and Saturday 9pm – 3am Darlin Darlin NagaWorld Hotel and Casino, Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822 Top-end nightclub with live music popular among the high-flyers of the city. Semi-private booths in a chic environment make for an unrivalled experience. Open daily from 7pm until late.

visiting, the steam baths and sensual showers are at your disposal. Ease muscle tension, chat, have a Jacuzzi or just relax in one of the private rooms. After using our facilities or swimming, you can enjoy a drink in the bar or just relax in the restaurant and lounge or around the pool. Blue Chilli 36 Street 178. Tel: 012 566 353 www.bluechillibar.com This welcoming bar run by Thai national Oak is currently the number one gay bar in town. Chic décor makes this one of the coolest bars in town, even if you’re straight. The drag shows on Friday and Saturday are an additional draw. Open 5pm until late. The Rainbow Bar 73 Street 172. Tel: 097 741 4187 Intimate bar designed to get to know people better has a range of welldesigned cocktails to make the night go with a swing.

Nightclubs

Bouchon Wine Bar (see Wine Bars) Occasional performances by jazz bands. CodeRED By Koh Pich Bridge, opposite Naga World. Tel: 017 800 642 Launched by veterans of PP clubland, CodeRED aims to bring high calibre DJs to Cambodia as well as support the best of local talent. D-club 3 Street 278, Tel: 010 268 278 www.duplex.com.kh, www.facebook. com/dclubpp Stylish and energetic. D-club combines the allure of world-class decor with pulse-pounding sounds to create the most dynamic nightlife destination. Open

Heart of Darkness 38 Street 51. Tel: 023 222 415 One of the most famous of the city’s nightspots with a good-sized dance floor make this the in-place in town. Has well priced spirits and mixers and is totally packed out on Friday and Saturday nights. Open 8:30pm to 4am. Memphis 3 Street 118. Tel: 012 871 263 Only permanent rock venue in town with a house band that plays covers from 10pm til 1:30am, later at weekends. Also has open mike sessions on Mondays. Open from 8pm til late, closed Sundays. 2-for-1 cocktails everday from 8pm until 10pm. Nomads Club 46-48, St 172 Khan Daun Penh (opposite Pontoon) PP Facebook: www.facebook.com/ Nomadclub Nova 19 St 214. Tel: 097 716 5000 Trendy night club with VIP section and dress code (no flup flops, tank tops or shorts!). Open 9pm-4am. Pontoon Street 172 It is an institution in Phnom Penh. The biggest, wildest club where it all happens. Pontoon is the night-out you need to have while in Phnom Penh. Riverhouse Lounge 157 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 299 161 The Riverhouse Lounge is a place for party lovers. Live DJ music every night of the week, theme parties and events will fill your calendar’s nightlife. Operation Time: 4pm - 2am Saint Tropez 31 Street 174 Tel: 077 212 100 / 097 9000 401 Upscale club, complete with fake beach, deck bar, that suggests the French Riviera. Open daily 6pm - 2am.

LISTINGS

Java Café & Gallery (see Restaurants, International) Contemporary art gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian and international artists. Has second gallery on the ground floor. Website has details about Cambodia’s contemporary art scene.

culture Cinemas

The Flicks 39B Street 95. Tel: 078 809 429, theflicks-cambodia.com Local expat oriented movie houses with revolving schedule of international and art house films, screened in comfy air con movie rooms. Also offers potential for movie parties, with option to hire the movie room for a private session (max 30 people). Minimum two screenings per day. Check the website for the weekly schedule. Cover charge $ 3.50 per day. The Cineplex 5th Floor Sorya Shopping Centre, Tel: 017 666 210 www.thecineplexs.com International-standard three-screen cineplex featuring the latest Digital 3D technology and the most recent Hollywood and international releases, located in the heart of downtown with ample parking, shopping and eating options. Open 9am - 10:30pm. Le Cinema French Institute, 218 Street 184 Tel: 023 213 124. 100-seat cinema shows International art house and mainstream movies with occasional films in English. Children’s cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am. Cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am. Legend Cinema 3rd Floor City Mall, Monireth Blvd. Tel: 088 954 9857 www.legendcinemas.com International quality cinema showing Hollywood releases in air-conditioned environment including 3D. Screenings:10am - 9pm, box office: 10am - 9pm. Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd., (opp. Phnom Penh centre). Tel: 012 607 465 Movie shorts and documentaries from Cambodia and the rest of Asia. Movies normally start at 7pm, closed Mondays.

Galleries

Meta House 37 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 012 607 465 Multimedia arts centre on three floors has regular exhibitions, interviews with filmmakers and short films, contains the Art Café. Open Tues – Sun, 2pm - 10pm. Reyum Institute of Arts & Culture 47 Street 178. Tel: 023 217 149 Gallery with regular exhibitions of Cambodian artists. Part of an NGO established to preserve traditional and contemporary Cambodian arts. Romeet 34E Street 178. Tel: 092 953 567. Romeet is a dynamic space for Cambodian contemporary art, presenting exhibitions, talks, workshops, local collaborations and international exchanges. The galllery was founed by Phare Ponleu Selpak in 2011. Open Tues - Sat, 10am to 12pm and 1pm to 6pm, and 2pm to 6pm on Sundays. Sa Sa Bassac 18 Sothearos Boulevard, Upstairs. An expansion of the Sa Sa Art Gallery and a merger with Bassac Art Projects, Sa Sa Bassac is an artist-run gallery for contemporary art. Includes a library, reading and workshop room, and a 60-metre gallery space. Ongoing visual literacy programmes.

Performing Arts

Amrita Performing Arts 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 424 www.amritaperformingarts.org Performance art company that puts on contemporary & classical music and theatre. Apsara Arts Association 71 Street 598. Tel: 011 550 302 Organisation that promotes Cambodian arts & culture. Open from 7.30am - 10.30am Cambodian Living Arts 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 986 032. www.cambodianlivingarts.org A non-profit arts organisation devoted to the revival and transmission of traditional Khmer performing arts that puts on performances and provides tours.

Bophana Audiovisual Resource Centre 64 Street 200. Tel: 023 992 174 Preserving much of Cambodia’s audiovisual material, has regular exhibitions. Open 8am-6pm Mon - Fri, 2pm-6pm Sat.

Chaktomuk Conference Hall Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 725 119 Designed by master Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann, this under-utilised building is worth a visit. Open 7am - 11.30am and 2pm - 5pm (Mon. to Fri.).

Dori Thy Gallery 12R Street 256. Tel: 012 661 552 Features the black and white photographs of German photographer, Doris Boettcher. Open Saturday and Sunday 10am-6pm.

Chenla Theatre Cnr. Mao Tse Tung & Monireth Blvds. Tel: 023 883 050 www.culturalcenter-cambodia.com One of the capital’s major theatres, it has regular performances of theatre, dance and music.

FCC Phnom Penh (see Restaurants, International) Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has a permanent, rotating exhibition devoted to photography. French Institute 218 Street 184. Tel: 023 213 124 Formerly the Alliance Française, the French Culture Centre (CCF) offers cultural activities including exhibitions, festivals, and film screenings to promote French and Khmer culture. Onsite shop

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Carnets d’Asie offers a selection of French books.

Epic Arts 1DE0 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 998 474 www.epicarts.org.uk Organisation that uses art to empower people with disabilities. Sovanna Phum Khmer Art Association 166 Street 99 corner of 484 Tel: 023 987 564 Theatre with performances of shadow puppetry, classical and masked dances every Friday and Saturday at 7.30pm.


LISTINGS

leisure & wellness Amusement

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla Tel: 012 231 755 A peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding, 15 minutes away from the city. Open from 6.30am until late. Living Arts Experiences 128-G9 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 018 998 570 Email: events@cambodianlivingarts.org Visit local dance, theatre and musical rehearsals of the traditional Khmer arts through Cambodian Living Arts’ Observation Tours. Available in Siem Ream, Phnom Penh & Kampong Speu call for times and to book in advance. Parkway Square 113 Mao Tse Tung Blvd. Ten-pin bowling alley and dodgem track. Phnom Penh Water Park 50 Street 110, Tel: 023 881 008 Traditional mix of slides and wave pools is open daily from 9.30am to 5.30pm. Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao, 44 kilometres out of the capital along Highway 2. Cambodia’s top wildlife centre. All animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered. Open daily 8am - 4pm.

Boat Cruises

The Butterfly Cambodia Tel: 012 602 955 thebutterflycambodia@gmail.com Cambodian river adventures, sunset cruises, birthdays and events to floating villages, Silk Island. Plan your trip, per hour, half-day and full-day rates available.

Classes

At La Table Khmère cooking class 11E Street 278, Tel: 012 238 068 www.phnompenh-cooking-class.com For all those wanting to learn how to prepare traditional Khmer specialties from scratch in a clean and airconditioned setting. Morning classes include a visit to the local market. Open daily, classes start at 9am and 3pm. Cambodian Cooking Class Frizz Restaurant, 67 Street 240 Tel: 012 524 801 First and only Khmer cooking school for travellers & expats in Phnom Penh, includes transport to the market and a colourful 16-page recipe booklet. Open 10am - 10pm. Capoeira Home of English, Building D 10B Street 57, Tel: 012 960 076 Capoeira lessons are held every Tuesday & Thursday 6.30-8pm. All levels catered for. Classes are free of charge. For more information visit Facebook page “Capoeira Kampuchea”. Central School of

Ballet Phnom Penh 10 Street 183 (entrance on Street 406) www.centralschoolofballet.com Cambodia’s first purpose-built ballet school offering classical ballet training for children in the afternoons, contemporary dance, ballet and dance conditioning for adults in the evenings. Spacious dance studio equipped with large, custom-made mirrors, barres and a professional, sprung dance floor.

sos

Equestrian Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla Tel: 015 231 755 / 012 704 759 With 31 ponies and horses, an international sized arena and spacious stables, the only horseriding centre in Phnom Penh Tuesdays to Sundays, 9am to 11am and 2pm to 5.30pm. Global Art 1 Street 181 & Street 475 (nr Chinese Embassy) Tel: 023 222 084/ 087 222 084 World renowned art and creativity program for young children. Franchisee of Global Art Group. Available in 17 countries with more than 400 centres worldwide. Music Arts School 9A Street 370. Tel: 023 997 290 www.music-arts-school.org New NGO school providing music training for Cambodians and expats - of all ages and levels - at affordable tuition fees. Learn guitar, piano, violin, vocals, and tradtional Khmer instruments. Also has a scholarship fund to provide music education to the less fortunate. NataRaj Yoga Studio 52 Street 302, Tel: 012 250 817 / 090 311 341 www.yogacambodia.com, Welcome everyone to the peaceful yoga studio. Wide variety of daily drop-in yoga classes & monthly workshops in many styles with international qualified teachers. Your yoga class contributes to our NGO yoga programs for local kids. Stretch your body while feeling great about reaching out to Cambodian youth. Photography Tours 126 Street 136. Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Photography tuition and guided tours to Kampong Chnang and Udong, covering technical and creative considerations in the context of travel photography. Scuba Nation PADI 5* IDC Diving Centre 18 Sothearos Blvd (near FCC) Tel: 012 715 785 www.divecambodia.com Learn to scuba dive in Phnom Penh. The academic and pool part of the course can be done in Phnom Penh and you finish with 2 days in Sihanoukville on the boat. We conduct refreshers, try dives and kids’ pool parties as well as the full range of courses. Open 9am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9am-5pm.

Simphony Music School No. 243, Street 51. Tel: 023 727 345 / 097 888 8787. www. simphony.com.kh Simphony Music School is the first official music school in Cambodia recognized by the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, Royal government of Cambodia. The faculty is composed by experienced and qualified music teachers from overseas, speaking fluent English, Chinese, and French. Our curriculum is based on USA curriculum following Orff and Kodály music teaching methods. The Tennis Club CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla. Tel: 017 847 802 The two courts are equipped with specially adapted flooring unique in Cambodia, and with quality lightning allowing play past sunset. Skilled English and Cambodian speaking

Eye Health Dr Rathmony Heng We quite often take for granted our health. Our body functions almost to a level of perfection without us noticing anything, when in fact small cells transmit signals to our brain to process megabytes of information every single minute. We are able to feel, to taste, to walk, to digest, to see the world around us. Our eyes are one of the most complex organs. We can read, define forms and shapes, and enjoy the beauty of colours. Nowadays, more than ever we force our eyes to work more. We read on e-readers, mobiles phones, tablets and laptops. We are also exposed to extreme weather conditions, excessive sunlight, and sometimes dusty wind while riding a motorcycle or as a moto or tuk tuk passenger. In Cambodia, we are exposed more to open areas where pollution from construction sites is a problem. This generates many issues for our eyes. Foreign bodies, such as dust and sand particles, can enter our eyes and scratch the cornea, for example, or while playing sports, accidentally, we can get hit by a ball or another player – whack, right in the eyes. Let’s not also forget to mention children

attending school, where an outbreak of viral or bacterial conjunctivitis can occur, spreading it to the whole family and community in general. Wearing contact lenses is quite common. As easy as it is to use them, we also get into unfortunate situations, especially when we forget to remove them at night and the contact lenses stick to the cornea, producing corneal ulcers and infections that need immediate medical care. As mentioned above, our eyes’ anatomy is very unique with many layers of specialised cells that can be affected at any level by a disease. Symptoms include pain, blurred vision or signs such as tearing and eye discharge. We will not discuss any particular eye disease in this article; that would a matter for the future. However, we want to encourage readers to appreciate more how lucky we are to be able to see, read, work and enjoy life. Do not take that for granted and treat your eyes with respect, protect them with a good pair of sunglasses, apply natural tears if you feel that your eyes are too dry and, of course, visit your doctor if you have any concerns.

If you have any enquiries regarding this or any other medical matters and issues, do not hesitate to contact info.cambodia@ internationalsos.com

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teachers available for private or group lessons. Open daily.

Yoga for life 126 Street 19. Tel: 077589458 Learn to release stress and tension, find peace and live a healthy life with yoga classes taught by yoga and massage virtuoso, Azmi Samdjaga from Singapore. Classes every Wednesday from 7:30pm witht more classes starting late June 2012. Healthy food and Wifi are also available. Yoga Phnom Penh 39 Street 21 www.yogaphnompenh.com Daily drop-in classes for all levels with experienced, qualified international teachers. Classes include Ashtanga yoga, Vinyasa Flow Yoga, Fly Yoga, Fly Fit and Classical yoga. Regular workshops and Bliss weekend also offered.

Chemists

U-Care Pharmacy 26-28 Sothearos Blvd. Tel 023 222 499; 39 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel 023 224 099; 41-43 Norodom Blvd. Tel 023 224 299; 844 Kampuchea krom Blvd. Tel 023 884 004; 207-209 Sisowath Quay. Tel 023 223 499; 194 Tro Sork P’em. Tel 023 224 399. www.ucarepharma.com Provide international cosmetic brands, leading imported health & beauty products, only certified medication. Professional advice and convenient and strategic locations. Open daily from 8am to 10pm.

Counselling Services

Alcoholics Anonymous 11 Street 420. Tel: 012 813 731 www.aacambodia.org Meets on Friday, Wednesday & Sunday. Indigo Psychological Services 28 Street 460. Tel: 023 222 614, indigocambodia@gmail.com Professional counselling services in English, French or Khmer for adults, adolescents, children, couples, and families. Assessment and intervention services for children and adolescents with learning and developmental difficulties. Narcotics Anonymous 11 Street 420. Tel: 012 813 731 NA meets on Monday, Thursday at 8pm and Saturday at 7pm.

Dental

European Dental Clinic 160A, Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 211 363 www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com Total dental care, Implant, Orthodontist Treatment by expat dentists. Open Mon Fri 8am-12pm, 2pm-7pm. Sat, 8am-1pm

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International Dental Clinic Phnom Penh: 193 Street 208. Tel 023 212 909 Siem Reap: 545 National Road N6, Banteay Chas, Stor Kram. Tel: 063 767 618 www.imiclinic.com IMI Dental Cosmetic and Restorative Dentistry Centre has been successfully creating beautiful smiles in Phnom Penh and throughout Cambodia. Open Mon– Sat, 8am-7pm, Sun 9am-12pm. MALIS dental clinic 445 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 012 513 222 / 023 964 142 info@malis-dental.com Facebook: “MALIS Dental Clinic” A Japanese dentist provides professional and high-quality service. Shigeta Dental Clinic 25 Street 294 cnr Street21 Tel: 023 223 225 / 010705083 Email: info@shigetadental.com Faebook: shigetadentalclinic www.shigedental.com High-end Japanese Dental Clinic that caters your dental needs. Open from Monday to Sunday, 8am - 8pm.

Gyms

The InterContinental Fitness Center 3/F Mao Tse Toung Boulevard, Tel: 023 424 888 ext. 5000 A sophisticated retreat from the crowds, The InterContinental Fitness Center is the place to attain peak performance and wellbeing. Pump up with a full body workout on state-ofthe-art equipment, benefit from the experience and guidance of qualified trainers, and relax all year round in the open-air swimming pool. Fitness Centre CCC, Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla. Tel: 015 704 759 Achieve individual targets whether sports specific or to tone, lose weight, build strength or improve cardiovascular fitness for a healthier and fitter lifestyle. Open daily 6.30am until late. Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Le Royal Hotel. Tel: 023 981 888 Modern gym and pool in Phnom Penh’s most elegant hotel. Use of gym, pool, sauna and Jacuzzi is available to nonguests. Open 6am - 10pm. Physique Club Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 012 810 432 Reasonable selection of equipment in the gym and a pool overlooking the river. Open 6am - 10pm. The Gym at The Place 90 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 999 699 Modern establishment featuring a fully equipped gym and weekly classes in

dance, yoga and aerobics. Open 6am - 10pm , Mon – Fri, 8am 10pm Sat/Sun

Hairdressers

The Dollhouse 46AE0 Street 322 Tel: 010 329 999 / 016 620 907 www.dollhousecambodia.com Salon offers cutting, colouring and various treatments, including the Brazilian Keratin Treatment with Collagen to replenish the condition of your hair. Western hairdresser with international experience. Open Tues – Sat 9am- 7pm, Sun 11am-7pm, closed Monday. The French Element Himawari Hotel Unit D, 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 077 283 332 www.thefrenchelement.com Over-looking the Tonle Sap, wonderful spot to relax and pamper yourself. Offering all hair services such as highlights, colour, cut, Brazilian Keratin Treatment and more. International hairdresser. Open 10am 8pm, closed Sun. Tokyo Barbershop 22A St 278. Tel: 012 590 655 / 087 667 778 tokyo_barbershop@yahoo.com Man centric barbershop conveniently located behind Lucky supermarket. Provides hair-cuts, shampoos, colours, manicures, pedicures, facial massage, oil body massages, back waxing. Open daily 8am - 7:00pm. Toni & Guy Aeon Mall first floor, Tel 023 901 190, Facebook toniandguycambodia Toni & Guy Cambodia will bring 50 years of hair fashion heritage to Phnom Penh. Originally from UK, there are now over 400 salons worldwide. Specialist stylists for cuts and colourists to give the colour you want from the UK and Japan. Uses Label M products. Open every day from 10am until 8pm.

Medical

American Medical Centre Ground Floor Cambodiana Hotel 313 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 991 863 Led by American surgeon, team of international and Khmer doctors provide general practice services to clients. Can arrange emergency evacuation. 24/7 service. International Chiropractic Clinic, 67 Bis Street 240, (100m from Monivong Blvd). Tel: 023 223 101 www.cambodiachiropractic.com First and only Chiropractic clinic licensed in Cambodia. Our chiropractors are US trained and we provide modern Chiropractic care, physiotherapy and custom made medical grade orthotics. Open Mon - Fri 8.30am6pm , Sat 8.30am-1pm.

International SOS Medical Clinic 161 Street 51. Tel: 023 216 911 Global provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Expat and Khmer doctors offer general practice, specialist and emergency medical services. Appointments 8am - 5:30pm Mon – Fri, 8am - 12pm, Sat. Open 24/7 for emergencies. Physiotherapy Phnom Penh 45C Street 456. Tel: 023 99 63 44 General physiotherapy practice specialising in manual therapy, sports injuries and acupuncture. Royal Rattanak Hospital 11 Street 592, Toul Kork Tel. 023 991 000 www.royalrattanakhospital.com A Thai owned and run private hospital with extensive services that strives to provide high standard and quality medical care by professional care team.

Optics

Grand Optics 11 Norodom Bvd / 337 Monivong Blvd / 150 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 213 585 Modern opticians with the latest equipment including free computerised eye test. Makes prescription glasses and lenses.

Pools

Asia Club 456 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 721 766 Beautiful swimming pool at rear of Man Han Lou Restaurant. Members get a discount at both restaurant and Master Kang Health Care Centre.

Spas

Amara Spa Cnr Sisowath Quay & St.110 Tel: 023 998 730 www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com Day spa providing a wide selection of facials, body massages and treatments, arranged in a four-storey modern facility at riverfront. Open 11am-11pm. Aura Spa 21 Mao Tse Toung Blvd (near the corner of St. 63). Tel: 023 555 3209/015 991 688, www.auracambodia.com Aura Spa creates its own signature massage therapy with well-trained therapists to enhance a traditional blend of ancient health and beauty practices which have been passed down from generation to generation. Open every day from 9am – 11pm. Aziadee Spa 16 a/b Street 282. Tel: 023 996 921 aziadee1@yahoo.fr French-run spa offering a good choice of treatments, a range of massages, scrubs, facials, floral baths, manicures, pedicures and waxing in relaxing and tranquil surroundings. Open 9am-9pm.


Bi Nail Salon 213a E0 Stret 310 Tel: 023 6324 524 / 097 798 1122 Bi Nail is a full service nail salon, for women and men. Japanese-trained nail artists have years of experience and provide expert personal care in a quiet and relaxing atmosphere. Full set care (manicure and pedicure), more than 250 nail lacquers, more than 350 nail design samples. Acrylic and gel nails are available. Open daily 8am – 7pm. Bliss 29 Street 240. Tel: 023 215 754 Health spa at back and upstairs in this beautiful French colonial building. Open 9am - 9pm, closed Monday. Bodia Spa 26-28 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 226 199 www.bodia-spa.com Using natural, own-brand products Bodia spa offers body wraps, floral baths, scrubs, facials, aromatherapy, massages and mani-pedies, alongdside Jacuzzi and steam. The peaceful atmosphere is enhanced by scented oils and soft music. Open daily 9am – 9pm. Derma-Care Skin Clinic 161B Norodom Tel: 023 720 042 / 012 415 552 Two qualified dermatologists, this professional skin clinic offers a range of beauty treatments using American Derma-Rx products, minor dermatologic surgery, antioxidant boosters, chemical peeling, and lipolysis. Open 9am - 9pm. Derma-MK Skin Center 183 Street 63, Tel: 023 219 105 Focused on Dermalogica products, this care facility offers facial treatments, including anti-aging and brightening, as well as body treatments such as body scrubs and massage. Open daily from 10:00am – 7:00pm. LA ROSE Spa 164b Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 211 130 / 080 900 900 www.larose.com.kh Professional, experienced, qualified therapists offer a tailor-made range of remedial, relaxation and nutritional advice. High-end natural products and a wide range of homeopathic remedies, creams, flower essences and signature organic massage oils. Master Kang Health Care Centre 456 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 721 765 Health centre next to Man Han Lou Restaurant offers foot massage in public or private rooms, with both Chinese and oil massage. A grand piano is played in the evenings. Open 10am - 12pm. Nail Holic Street 592, Tuol Kork (next to Indrak Tevy High School) Tel: 012 357 887/097 4123 337 Nail polish and pedicure services using products from Korea. Comfortable chairs in relaxing surroundings with professional, hospitable and friendly staff speaking Khmer, Korean and English. Open daily from 8am – 6pm. Raffles Amrita Spa Tel: 023 981 888 Raffles Amrita Spa offers relaxation and rejuvenation through a wide selection of services and facilities including treatment rooms, outdoor lap and fun pool, Jacuzzi, fitness centre, sauna and steam room. Open daily 6am - 10pm. The Spa at NagaWorld Hun Sen Park. Tel: 023 228 822

This luxurious spa promises to bring the ancient Cambodian spa therapy to the world, and claims to be the only all-suite unisex spa in Cambodia. Therapy rooms with sauna, steam and flower bath are inviting, and the spa uses Tomichik flowers as part of its treatment. Open 10am-3am. So SPA with L’Occitane Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Tel: 063 964 600 Offers rejuvenating world traditions combined with French cosmetology in the privacy of an intimate setting. Treatments are provided with international and local high-end products. Open daily: 10am – 10pm Villa Spa 456 Monivong Blvd., (cnr. Street 466) Tel: 023 721 765 / 012 357 561 www.asiagarden.com.kh Aromatherapy massage in private boutique VIP rooms (villa and bungalow style) from professional Chinese and Khmer therapists from Master Kang; women customers only. Waterlily Spa N42, Spean Anthernou (near Koh Pich) Tel: 012 632 329, spawaterlilty.com Indulge yourself with our spa services that pamper guests from head to toe. Waterlily Spa offers skincare/facials, body treatments, massages, waxing and nail care. Open daily 10am - 11pm.

Tattoos and Piercing

Black Star 5A Street 90, Phnom Penh www.blackstarcambodia.com Tel: 070 200 900/078 753 697 Welcome to Black Star Tattoo’s Cambodia’s finest whether you’re just passing through the Penh, or you’re a resident, this is the place to come for the highest quality tattooing. Open daily from 10am – 10pm.

Sports General

Ball Hockey Played every Thursday night at City Villa, corner of Streets 360 and 71 at 7pm. To play, contact Mike: michaelwarford@ispp.edu.kh Beeline Arena Sangkat Chroychangva, Phnom Penh Tel: 067 716 565 www.banzaicambodia.com The Beeline Arena is the first multipurpose sports arena in Cambodia with international standards, including Multi-surface state of the art FIFA regulation pitch, 2,000 person capacity, VIP lounge and restaurant. Rental for football, basketball, volleyball, events and more. Open daily 8am until late. Cambodian Federation of Rugby cambodianfederationofrugby.com Proper 15-a-side rugby league with four senior teams as well as kid’s touch and women’s rugby teams. Contact Larry: khmer_rugby@yahoo.co.uk for more details. Football: The Bayon Wanderers www.bayonwanderers.com Mixed Khmer and western team. Training at the City Villa court on Wednesday and Friday, 8pm to 10pm, Old Stadium on Tuesday from 4.30 pm. Contact Billy Barnaart on 012 803 040 (available from 11am to 10pm). Sunday play at 2pm. Cambodia Golf & Country Club Route 4, Kompong Speur Tel: 023 363 666 International standard, 18-hole golf course. Open 6am until dark.

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LISTINGS

family Cafés & Restaurants

Java Café 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 023 987 420 Kid’s menu includes chicken nuggets and pizza bagels. Colouring pages and crayons to keep the kids amused. Highchair is available on request and babychanging facilities are in the toilet. Open daily 7am - 10pm Le Jardin 16 Street 360. Tel: 011 723 399 This garden retreat has a great kids’ area with playhouse and sandbox, specialises in birthday parties, with cake, decorations, toys and drawing materials provided for children of all ages. Open Tue – Sun, 8am - 8pm. The Shop Too 38 Street 337 Tel: 012 952 839 Little haven of calm with a wide range of fresh bread, patisseries, chocolates, juices and excellent salads, sandwiches. All products such as croissants, cakes

etc. are baked on the spot…With a big garden in front and nice courtyard at the back, it makes it a perfect place for family as well. Open daily 7am – 9pm.

Kids can rejoice now that this indoor children’s play centre offers clean, safe facilities. Available for private parties. Open daily 9am - 8pm.

Entertainment

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park Phnom Tamao Cambodia’s best wildlife centre. All the animals are either rescued from traders or bred at the centre. Many of the animals are critically endangered. Open 8am - 4pm.

Cambodian Country Club Street 2004, Group 6 Toeuk Thla, Tel: 012 231 755 Sports centre and a peaceful heaven providing tennis, swimming, badminton, fitness centre and horse riding in an amazing landscape 15 minutes away from the city. Dedicated to leisure, rest and entertainment, CCC is suitable for children. Open daily 6.30am until late. Kids City 162A Sihanouk Boulvard. www.kidscityasia.com Indoor entertainment centre with climbing walls, ice skating, laser tag. toddler town and other attractions. Monkey Business Paragon Department Store, Second Floor. Tel: 023 319 319

International Schools

Canadian International School of Phnom Penh Bassac Garden, Norodom Boulevard Tel: 023 727 788 / 077 503 778 www.cisp.edu.kh Offers a Canadian curriculum in English, certified through the Canadian province of Alberta. Eton House International School 16 Mao Tse Tung Blvd Tel: 023 22 8818 www.ehis.co Eton House is committed to the pursuit of excellence in education. Eton House is represented in 10 countries with over 56 pre-schools and schools around the world. In our early years program we offer a play-based, ‘Inquire, Think, Learn” pedagogy. This programme has been inspired by the I.B program and the Reggio Emilia schools of Northern Italy. Ages: 18months 6years. Full and Half Day Programs Footprints School 220 Street 430, Tumnub Teuk, Tel: 077 222 084, www.footprintschool. edu.kh Established in 2007 Footprints School offers nursery (age 2) through Secondary and has 4 campuses. The curriculum is designed for the dynamic needs and interests of our students and staff are hired for their experience and love for children. Giving Tree Primary Class Preschool and Primary (Grades 1 to 3): Secondary Branch 50, Street 322

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Tel: 017 997 112 registrar@thegivingtreeschool. com Our multi-age Primary Class, for students ages 6-9 years, is designed to accommodate each child’s individual learning needs. We follow the International Primary Curriculum, and include tennis, yoga, music, art, computers and swimming. iCAN British International School 85 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 222 416 www.ican.edu.kh iCAN offers affordable, high quality education, using the IPC, IMYC and English National curriculum. Learners are encouraged to be thoughtful, creative, think critically, collaborate and achieve their best. iCAN is the learning environment of choice for parents who value the development of their children emotionally and socially, as well as academically. International Learning Jungle School 14 Street 337, Toul Kork Tel: 095 222 885 / 023 5555 363 www.learningjungle.com International early learning and care provider headquartered in Canada is proud to announce its entry into the Cambodian pre-school market. International School of Phnom Penh 146 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 213 103 www.ispp.edu.kh Founded in 1989, this non-profit, nonsectarian international school currently has over 600 students from Pre-K to Grade 12. The largest international school with over 70 professional teachers, and a fullyauthorized IB programme. Lycée Français René Descartes Street 96. Tel: 023 722 044 French school offering primary and secondary level education,


extra-curricula activities include basketball, football, rugby. Northbridge International School 1km off National Road 4 on the way to the airport. Tel: 023 886 000. www.nisc.edu.kh Founded in 1997, NISC is a fullyauthorized IB World School with a growing enrollment of 500 students age 3 to Grade 12. Spectacular purpose built campus unlike any in Cambodia. Raffles Montessori International School of Phnom Penh 18 Street 294, corner of Street 57 Tel: 023 993 999 info@rmispp.edu.kh International standard school from Singapore which invites you to let your children experience the beauty of independent education with a team of Montessori-trained teachers. Offering Kindergarten from ages 1.5 to 6 years old in a loving and encouraging environment. Zaman International School 2843 Street 3. Tel: 023 214 040 www.zamanisc.org International school that teaches a full curriculum to children from four to 18. Facilities include basketball and volleyball courts, a football field and a science lab.

Pre-Schools

DK Schoolhouse No. 7 St. 466 078 777 466 / 095 777 466 www.dkschoolhouse.com DK Schoolhouse is an early learning preschool/kindergarten for children aged 2-6. Established by long time residents of the Kingdom, DK Schoolhouse aims to minimize the gap between quality and cost in education while providing a safe and stimulating learning environment. Our staff are native English speaking, qualified early childhood educators. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-4:00pm Sat 9:0011:00am (by appointment only). Gecko & Garden Pre-school 3 Street 21. Tel: 092 575 431 www.geckogarden-preschool.org This is a not-for-profit pre-school, established over ten years ago, which emphasises learning through creative play in a supportive environment forchildren aged 18 months to 5 years. Open daily 7:30am - 12pm. An after school program offering a range of fun activities is available 2:30pm - 5pm daily. Giving Tree Preschool 17 Street 71, Tel: 017 997 112 registrar@thegivingtreeschool.com 50 Street 322, Tel: 017 997 112 registrar@thegivingtreeschool.com 5 Street 325, Tel: 077 993 073

givingtreetk@thegivingtreeschool.com Committed to creating a safe, fun, and supportive learning environment through our play-based curriculum, our international teaching team guides students ages 6 months – 5 years old in exploring their world through interactive learning activities. Available in English & French. Sambo’s Tots www.sambostots.com Playhouse and playschool provides fun edutainment experience for babies and toddlers from 3 months to 5 years where imagination comes to life. Tchou Tchou 13 Street 21 Tel: 023 362 899, www.tchou-tchou.com Kindergarten and pre-school for 18 months to 5-year-olds, open from 7.30am to 12pm (Mon to Fri). French is the main language, although English and Khmer is also practised.

Shops

Monument Toys 111 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 217 617 To the rear of Monument Books is a well-stocked toy section. It features an excellent range of well-known board games and toys including Barbie dolls, Transformers, Magic 8 balls and more. It has to be the best place in the city for brand name toys and games. Open daily 7.30am - 8pm. Pichoun 25DE0E1 Street 294 Tel: 095 208 352 Children’s clothing shop offering a range of affordable goods, also contains a kid’s play area. Open daily from 9am to 7pm. Shade 7 Outdoor Living Co Ltd Showroon; Borey Chamkarmon Tel: 077 962 467 david@shade7.com www.shade7.com www. springfreetrampoline.com Supplier of Shade7 premium aluminium umbrellas and exclusive distributor of original Springfree range. World class products now available in Cambodia! Stock in country for immediate supply. Toys & Me 159A Mao Tse Toung Blvd. Tel: 023 212 081 / 016 808 676 www.toysnme.net Established in 2007, Toys & Me is a leading toys shop in Cambodia. A one-stop shop you can trust when it comes to educational needs for your children. Willi Shop 769 Monivong Blvd Tel: 023 211 652 All products are imported from France, including bébé brand baby products, the range includes prams, baby care, cots and toys. Open 8am - 8pm.


kids corner

Bienvenus en France not! Anna Glazkova Many of us who are expatriates in Cambodia are used to feeling welcome wherever we go with our families. It’s well known that locals admire our little creatures, especially when they have milky skin and light-colored eyes. Indeed it’s easy and fun being out with kids here, but what about in our home countries while on holiday? Arrival. Our first contact with the Charles de Gaulle airport this summer was a wakeup call. Travelling with young children? Stay in line! No priorities for families in passport control counter (sigh). It’s a great exercise trying to keep your children calm… well, at least to prevent them from destroying everything around after a 15-hour trip. One moment, I was ready to explode because both my kids were going through a well-planned tantrum and pretending I wasn’t with them wasn’t possible any more. At this moment I saw a sign saying any verbal or physical aggression towards airport personnel won’t be tolerated… Knowing that I’m not the only one in distress made me feel part of a special community and helped to keep me up! Eating out. 5pm and only one table busy: “Bonsoir, Madame. We’re fully booked but I think there is a table available on that terrace across the road!” Needless to say that such a nice welcome gives only one idea – to stay, to eat and to

pay 50 euros a head! And that’s exactly what we did. Ignoring the words, I cleared the way for the kids galloping behind, hitting the tables and chairs with their balloons. I was so moved by the experience and the indignation it brought that I decided to go back to this restaurant one more time with the kids of my friends. I bet they will remember us. Walking. I realised that my seven-year-old boy doesn’t know how to walk… We barely walk in Cambodia and having all these distances to stroll was quite a challenge for him. He would either wander, turning in circles not going anywhere, or complain that he was tired and ask me to carry him. Twenty kilos of happiness, thanks. As for my two-yearold daughter, she was so delighted to see all those sidewalks that she would constantly run. Now try to imagine the joy I had walking the two of them, one turning in circles and another speeding up like a wild animal rediscovering urban nature. Getting two scooters was the solution for me but not for the choked pedestrians sighing `ohlalas!` here and there as my kids flew by. Traveling with children may be a challenge but, admittedly, it’s great to be 24/7 with them. Time spent together is priceless and brings so much sharing that strengthens the bonds. Bon voyage!

Anna Glazkova is a mother to two children aged three and seven, she is interested in child psychology, especially early years development. Founder of The Giving Tree Preschool and Primary, Anna also teaches prenatal, regular and radiant child yoga programs.

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services

LISTINGS

business & services Architecture, Interior Design & Construction

Beyond Interiors 14e Street 306 Tel: 023 987 840 / 012 930 332 ww.beyondinteriors.biz Managed by Australian designer Bronwyn Blue, this interior design showroom can provide the ultimate design solution. All products from Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and Cambodia have been treated to withstand any climate. Open 9am - 6pm Bill Grant Landscape Design Tel: 012 932 225 / 012 738 134 The city’s most talented landscape designer. Green Goal Ltd 10 Street 296. Tel: 023 223 861 Consultancy offers sustainable and creative architectural and construction services to clients taking into account environmental considerations. Hemisphere Design & Interiors Tel: 012 602 955 william@norbert-munns.com Western managed renovation company specialising in swimming pools and Jacuzzi construction in fibreglass and concrete. I Ching Decor 85 Sothearos Blvd. Tel: 023 220 873 / 012 558 000 / 092 660 746, Boutique interior design shop offering advice on architectural work and interior design, as well as providing custommade furniture, home accessories, kitchenware, lighting and bedroom suites. Open 9am - 6pm, closed Sun. The Room Design Studio 9AB Street 288. Tel: 023 992 620 Interior design and architectural company that has 12 years’ experience of designing flats, villas, offices, shops, homes and offices in Asia.

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136. Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment. Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting. Expat Motorbike Cambodia 38Eo, Street 322, Tel: 089 491 436/089 518 867 Email:emcjapeng@ gmail.com, www.facebook.com/ RentalMotorCambodia We offer motorbike rental services for expats living in Phnom Penh including well-maintained motors, reliable & responsive service. The Bike Shop 31 Street 302. Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place. Also provides dirt bike tours.

Western Service Centre 24 Street 420. Tel: 012 477 831 www.wmg-cambodia.com A garage with Western and Khmer staff that emphasises communication and trained, attentive skills. Motto is “We don’t know all, we find out all, then we fix.”

Business Groups

Australian Business Association of Cambodia (ABAC) 20 Street 114 (cnr. Street 67) For information, contact Derek Mayes. Tel:012 385 157. abacambodia@gmail.com British Business Association of Cambodia (BBAC) 35 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 012 803 891 Contact enquiries@bbacambodia.com Chambre de Commerce FrancoCambodgienne Office 2nd floor, 33 Street 178 Tel: 023 221 453. www.ccfcambodge.org Canadian Cooperation Office Cambodia Commissioner Service . 50 Street 334. Tel: 023 215 496 www.cco-cambodia.org Malaysian Business Council of Cambodia Unit G21, Ground Floor, Parkway Square 113, Mao Tse Tung Blvd. mbcc.secretariat@gmail.com

Car Rental

ACC Car Rental Services 43 Street 160z Toul Kork Tel. 012 456 003 / 015 456 003. Professional, prompt and organised rental service that provides vehicles for rent with or without a driver. ACC also rents a range of buses that seat from 12 to 45 people. Asia Vehicle Rental 27 Street 134. Tel: 078 666 557 www.avrcambodia.com With the motto “leave your driving to us”, the rental service offers sedans, pick-ups, SUVs and minibuses in 2WD or 4WD for self-drive or with driver. Insurance offered. Larryta Trading & Travel Co. Ltd. 9 Street 310. Tel: 023 994 748 www.larrytacarrental.com.kh Vehicle rental for all types of cars, vans and mini-buses with flexible packages in Cambodia and neighbouring countries by the day, week or month. Royal Limousine Services Attwood Business Center, Russian Confederation Blvd. Tel : 023 218 808 www.royallimousine.com.kh Fleet of late model Mercedes that provides transport for hotels, embassies and luxury tour operators as well as foreign delegates.

Commercial Banks

Acleda Bank 61 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 998 777 www.acledabank.com.kh Specialises in micro, small and medium loans to people throughout the country.

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services

money matters

Life in the Kingdom of Wonder Paul Dodd As someone who has lived in Cambodia for six years, I can highly recommend the lifestyle. It’s an extremely hospitable country with sincere, warm-hearted people, strong family values and some truly spectacular sights, both natural and man-made. In recent years, Cambodia has forged a road to peace and a modern economy is emerging, which provides exciting opportunities for the increasing number of expats. While I heartily recommend life here, a move to Cambodia inevitably brings challenges. Moving country is never a piece of cake – the subtle cultural differences between even neighbouring nations can be difficult to overcome but are greatly amplified if you’re changing continent and/or moving to a country where the native tongue is not your own. Take Jane, who moved to Cambodia to teach, lured by the promise of an easy going lifestyle, cheap accommodation and a low cost of living. She found that a $9 an hour teaching job did not pay for the lifestyle she expected. Overwhelmed and unable to reconcile the reality of her life here with her expectations, Jane decided to leave for pastures new. The lesson to be learnt is that planning and research are crucial before emigrating. First up, do your financial homework. Failure to properly research how much you will spend on rent, utilities, food and going out can quickly turn your new life into a nightmare.

Protecting your health is important too. Illnesses that are rare in the west, such as typhoid, hepatitis, dengue fever and malaria, are more common here, as are road accidents. Quality healthcare facilities do exist but they are expensive. For this reason, one of your priorities should be to ensure that you have adequate healthcare in place, including emergency evacuation cover. For those with children, careful consideration should be made regarding their education. The vast majority of expats send their children to international schools which provide a high standard of education but obviously you will pay for the privilege of sending your child to these. Factor these fees into your financial planning before making the move. You should also consider how you might deal with life in an emerging nation. Cambodia is definitely on the up but you still need to accept that the country’s infrastructure may not be as developed as back home. Roads, utilities, rubbish collection, transport and even internet speed can all be sources of frustration to newcomers. If you are seriously considering a move to Cambodia, the good news is that research-wise, much of the hard work has already been done. At expatguidecambodia.com you can download a comprehensive guide to life in this amazing country. It is packed with tips and insider information and, what’s more, it is absolutely free!

Paul Dodd is an area manager at Infinity Financial Solutions. This company provides impartial, tailor-made, personal financial advice to clients in Cambodia and Southeast Asia. Should you wish to contact Paul, please send an email to info@ infinitysolutions.com or visit infinitysolutions.com.

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ANZ Royal Bank Main Branch, 20 Street 114 www.anzroyal.com Cambodia’s major commercial bank has brought international standards of banking to Cambodia, with a large number of ATM machines around Phnom Penh. Can arrange money transfers. CIMB Bank PLC 20AB Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 988 388, cimbbank.com.kh Full range of commercial and consumer banking products and services for both Cambodian and foreign businesses and individuals. The first Japanese bank in Cambodia. Maruhan Japan Bank 83 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 010 First Japanese bank in Phnom Penh.

Bikes & Mechanics

Dara Motorbike 43 Street 136, Tel: 012 335 499 Off-road specialist offers repairs, parts and accessories. Tours can be arranged by appointment. Emerald Garage 11 Street 456 Mechanics specialising in maintenance and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting. The Bike Shop 31 Street 302. Tel: 012 851 776 Repairs trusty steeds as well as renting them out in the first place. Also provides dirt bike tours.

www.ocean-tech.biz Technology company that offers GPS navigation systems, an online map directory and vehicle tracking system.

Internet Provider

EMAXX 99 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 818 EMAXX offers fast internet access via WiMAX, Optical Fiber and Satellite.

Insurance

AG Cambodia Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sovanna Sisowath Quay Tel: 017 360 333. nfo@agcambodia.com Professional insurance agent offering health, home, car, factory, employee and hotel insurance packages. Forte Insurance 325, Mao Tse Toung Blvd, Phnom Penh, Tel: 023 885 077 www.forteinsurance.com Forte Insurance is dedicated to providing exceptionally comprehensive and efficient insurance services (Corporate Insurance & Personal Insurance) to all our clients. Infinity Insurance 126 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 888 Professional insurance company offers motor, property, home, marine cargo, personal accident, healthcare, construction and engineering insurance. Group policies can be customised.

Legal

Household Goods

BNG Legal 64 Street 111. www.bnglegal.com Tel: 023 212 671 / 023 212 740 BNG Legal is a leading Cambodian law firm providing comprehensive legal services to foreign and local clients.

IT & Software

DFDL Legal and Tax Advisors 33 Street 294. Tel: 023 210 400 www.dfdlmekong.com Law firm providing international standard legal and tax solutions with local and cross-border experience with offices in neighbouring countries.

Japan Home Centre 48A Street 294 (btwn St 63 and 51) A place where you can find all of your household needs. Open daily from 10am to 8pm. Cresittel Co., Ltd. Office 705, KT Tower, 23 Street 112. Tel 098 518 888 Provides software solutions and systems, point of sales systems for bars and restaurants, website designing and telecoms consulting. Has showroom at 385 Street 215. KTOP 4th Floor, Sorya Shopping Center. Tel: 023 6666 763, www.ktop.com.kh Broad range of quality and up-to-date smartphones, tablets, computers and accessories. Special services for OS upgrade, maintenance, applications, games, music and movies for mobile devices and computers. Open daily from 9am - 8.30pm Netpro Cambodia 11 Street 422. Tel: 023 215 141 www.netpro-cambodia.com, IT supports company that delivers high quality and reliable services to home and small to medium size organisations in Cambodia. Ocean Technology T-20 St Topaz, Sovanna Shopping Centre Tel: 023 211 700 / 010 624 001

Gordon and Associates Asia 21 Street 214. Tel: 023 218 257 US lawyer works with local Cambodian lawyers to provide international quality advice. Specialises in foreign investment, joint ventures and advising entrepreneurs. Sciaroni & Associates 24 Street 462. Tel: 023 210 225 Law firm with a good reputation. Just the ticket if you get into a spot of bother.

Media & Design

Anon Creative Energy Tel: 089 812 123 anoncambodia@gmail.com Internationally trained advertising talent at your service. Strong, strategic ideas. Available for freelance art and copy writing projects. Asia Media Lab Tel: 012 818 917. asiamedialab.com Full service video production company specialises in the creation of dynamic visual content to help bring NGO stories


services to life for fundraising and advocacy.

Miscellaneous

Sunbird Angkor Co. Ltd. 78 Monireth Blvd. Tel: 023 98 3333 / 023 99 1010 sunbirdangkor@yahoo.co.kr Worldwide Hotel Reservation, Car Rental Service, Worldwide Medical Service, Convention, Marketing. Open Mon~Fri 8am ~5:30pm & Sat 8am~1pm

Post Office

Main Post Office Cnr. Streets 102 & 13 The place to go if you want to send something overseas or get a PO Box. Open 6.30am -9pm.

Photography

AsiaMotion Tel: 092 806 117. www.asiamotion.net Photographic agency established in November 2008 as a cooperation between local and international photographers. i3 Studio Tel: 017728895/095666817/092709596 www.facebook.com/i3studio Photography services: event, prewedding, wedding coverage and videography service. Nathan Horton Photography Tel: 092 526 706 www.nathanhortonphotography.com Full service professional photographer. Hotels, bars, restaurants, spas and location work. Call for Travel Photography workshops and tours.

Printing

Sok Heng Printing House 1297B Street Luo 5, Stoeung Mean Chey Tel: 011 939 255 / 012 939 255 Modern print house providing a full range of printing services. Graphic design available.

Real Estate and Property Services

240Condo 50B Street 240. Tel: 012 271 636 www.240phnompenh.com 240 is the home of 42 luxury serviced apartments set in the most stylish area of the city with spectacular river and city views. The condominium was designed by leading international architects gfab. CB Richard Ellis (Cambodia) Co., Ltd. 9th Floor, Hyundai Phnom Penh Tower 445 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 964 099 www.cbre.com.kh The world’s largest commercial real estate services company offering premier quality real estate, valutions, consultancy, investment and property services. Property Care Services (PCS) 2A Road 7. Tel: 017 555 203 Solution for property support services, including waste management, security, pest control and cleaning. Only company to clean high-rise windows with abseilers.

Relocation, Shipping

Crown 115-116 Street 335. Tel: 023 881 004 www.crownrelo.com Global transportation and relocation company with over 150 offices in 50 countries, specialising in expat support and household shipment. Open 8:30am 5:30pm Mon - Fri, 8:30am - 12pm, Sat. expat2cambodia Call Sophie: 066 200 767 www.expat2cambodia.com Your personal consultant offering services from expat to expat in the client’s own language: city orientation, house hunting and utilities, health care, cars/motorbikes, recreation facilities, networking, shopping, administration. Home Connect Cambodia 86 Street 160. Tel: 023 88 56 85 www.homeconnect.asia Home search company, dedicated to making the home search process easy and specializing in finding rental homes for the expatriate community. Best of all for our clients, our services are FREE.

Taxi Services

Choice Taxi Tel: 023 888 023 / 090 882 882 Metered taxi service with rates from US$1 for first 2km.

Aircon Restaurant Art Exhibitions Dance Theatre German Classes Film School Musical Events Fixed +855 (0)23 224 140 Mobile +855 (0)10 312 333 Homepage: www.meta-house.com Email: mesterharm@gmx.net

Workshop Space Open-Air-Cinema

Giant Ibis Transport Phnom Penh Phnom Penh: 3 Street 106, next to Night Market. Tel: 023 999 333 www.giantibis.com Siem Reap: 64 Street Sivatha, Mondol 1, Svay Dankum. Travel in “Affordable Luxury” to Siem Reap and other destinations in brand new 2012 buses with comforablt reclining seats, spacious leg room, A/C, Wi-fi, complementary snacks and pickup service.

Telecoms

Emaxx Corner St 214 and Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 999 818 We provide a national, high-quality, 4G communications network service for Internet and multimedia services including commerce, entertainment and education for development of Cambodia. Ezecom 7D Russian Blvd. Tel: 023 888 181 www.ezecom.com.kh Internet service provider that promises boundless internet packages suited to everyone’s needs. Good packages for those looking for unlimited downloads. Mobitel 33 Sihanouk Blvd.Tel: 012 801 801 Largest ISP in the country. Major mobile phone company which issues the 012 SIM card. Smart 464A Preah Monivong Blvd. Tel: 010 201 000.www.smart.com.kh www.facebook.com/SmartAxiata One of the most dynamic and fastest growing mobile telecom service in the country, issues the 010, 015, 016, 069, 070, 081, 086, 087, 093, 096, and 098 prefixes.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 83


LISTINGS

shopping Art

Estampe 72c street 174 (between St. 63 & St. 51) Tel : 012 826 186, www.facebook.com/estampe. phnompenh1 A wide collection of vintage items can be found at Estampe. There are originals and reproductions of old photos, books, maps from late 19th and early 20th century. Documents on specific themes or periods for unique tailor-made collections for hotels, restaurants or house decoration can be made. Open Monday - Saturday from 11am to 7pm. Hanuman Fine Arts 13B Street 334, Phnom Penh Tel: 023 211 916 tradition@hanumanfinearts.com High quality, beautiful antiques and objets d’art from all over the Kingdom. Furniture, ornaments, silverware, jewellery and more are well displayed in a treasure trove of a store. Very helpful and friendly staff. Open 8am - 5pm. Happy Painting Gallery 363 Sisowath Quay (nr. FCC) Tel: 023 221 732 www.happypainting.net Established in 1995 this art gallery is dedicated to Stef, a local icon artist with a very personal and positive insight into everyday life in Cambodia. Open 8am - 10pm

Beauty Products

Raffles Amrita Spa Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh spa. phnompenh@raffles.com Distinctive collection of Raffles Amrita spa private label and international spa products are available for purchase. Open 6am - 10pm.

84 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

Books & CDS

Carnets d’Asie French Cultural Centre 218 Street 184. Tel: 012 799 959 French-language bookshop has sections on Cambodia and Asia as well as general fiction, with a good range of French magazines and newspapers. Open 8am - 8pm D’s Books 79 Street 240 & 12E Street 178 Tel: 012 726 355 www.facebook. com/ds.books.shops New and used bookshops with over 20,000 original books and some copies, with a great range of best sellers. Coffee, smoothies and more available all day at Street 240. Open 9am to 9pm. Le Phnom Shop Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Tel: 023 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnompenh, Small shop offering books and souvenirs including recipes from the hotel’s pastry chef. Open 7am - 9pm. Monument Books 111 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 217 617 Extensive range of new Englishlanguage books in town including recent releases and sections on Asia, Cambodia, travel, cuisine, design and management. Good children’s section as well as a wide choice of magazines and newspapers. Open 7am - 8.30pm.

Crafts & Furniture

Artisans Angkor 12AEo Street 13 (in front of Post Office) Open daily from 9am to 6pm Tel: 023 992 409 www.artisansdangkor.com Boutique with a wide range of traditional and contemporary handmade pieces produced at Artisans Angkor’s workshops in Siem Reap province: silk scarves, clothing and accessories,

home furnishings, lacquer paintings and tableware, stone and wooden sculptures, silver-plated ornaments and silk paintings. Special commissions and custom orders welcome. Artwood 33 Street 302. Tel: 016 934 999 www.artwood.asia Drop in to our showroom to experience modern wooden furniture designed and manufactured in Cambodia. Offers free consultations for both commercial and residential custom-made needs. DeCosy 219 Street 19. Tel: 023 219 276 Stocking charming knick-knacks and furniture,is the place to find the things to make your house a home. Open daily from 9am to 7pm. Designer Interiors 23A Street 302 Tel: 023 637 3666 / 012 586 688 Email: Indulgenceinteriors@gmail.com Sells sofas, dining sets, bed linen, curtain & lights. MI-A JAPAN Street 271(100m after Stung Meanchey bridge). Tel: 023 6444 531 The store provides a variety of products from gardening tools to dining materials. The 100-yen shop is famous in Japan and has now arrives in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Open daily at AEON Mall 1F 9am 10pm, Dream Land on Sisowath Quay 9am - 11pm, Street 271 8am - 9pm & Siem Reap 9am - 10pm. Pavillon d’Asie 24, 26 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 012 497 217 Antique lovers dream, a large array of well-restored furniture and decorative objects. Wooden cabinets jostle for space with Buddha statues and old wooden boxes. Upstairs are pieces

from the French colonial era. Open 10am - 7pm, closed Sun. PhalyCraft 37 Street 113. Tel: 016 485 857 www.phalycraft.com Located near Tuol Sleng Museum, PhalyCraft makes scarves, bags, gifts and accessories. Custom orders available.

Fashion

Ambre 37 Street 178. Tel: 023 217 935 The high-end fashion designs created by Cambodian designer Romyda Keth are popular all over the world, this beautiful colonial building makes the perfect setting for the city’s most glamorous design shop. Also has men’s fashion. Open 10am - 6pm, closed Sun. A.N.D. 52c Street 240. Tel: 017 854 726 artisandesigners@gmail.com The designers at A.N.D. work with many local artisans, giving a fashion twist to traditional skills: look for generously-sized ikat wraps in pure cotton, innovative up-cycled bags, and covetable jewellery combining hand-carved hardwoods with silver and vintage porcelain. Bambou Indochine 7 Street 178. Tel: 023 214 720, Facebook: bambouindochine High-quality T-shirts, Polo shirts and comfortable clothes in original designs. A full-range of sizes for men, women and children. Open daily 8am -10pm. Beautiful Shoes 138 Street 143. Tel: 012 848 438 Family-run business measures your feet and designs the shoe exactly as you wish. The shop also caters for men. Open from 7am to 6.30pm.


inspiring arts

Robam Preah Reach Trop CLA Classical dance, Robam Preah Reach Trop in Khmer, has existed in Cambodian culture since the early ages of the royal courts at Angkor. Dances were traditionally performed as a sacred ritual, either to show respect by offering blessings of prosperity to the king or to summon gods and spirits. The frequency and use of classical dance has evolved and is now more commonly used for celebrations, public events, holidays, as well as to educate foreigners about Cambodian culture. This dance form uses very delicate movements performed by dancers who wear elaborate costumes. Two of the most well-known classical dances are the Robam Chun Por (Wishing dance) and the Robam Tep Apsara (Apsara dance). Folk dance appeared throughout the 1960s as a way to preserve and protect Cambodian culture and arts. It is defined in two forms, ceremonial and theatrical. The main difference is that theatrical dance is mostly the one presented in public, while ceremonial dance is kept for special rituals, celebrations and holidays. Some of the more famous theatrical folk dances originate from popular dances which are widely-known in the countryside and resonate to most of Cambodians, such as the Good Harvest Dance and the Fishing Dance. Theatrical folk dances

aim at reflecting the rural life and traditions of Cambodia’s various ethnic groups, therefore chosen movements and costumes show less formality than those found in classical dance. The Amatak festival, held in Phnom Penh from Aug. 15 to 17, showcased creations by traditional art troupes, including classical and folk dances. Ms Siv Meng, an active member of the Children of Bassac troupe since 2006, has been dancing since 2000. She specialised in classical dance before discovering more about folk dances in a class initiated by Cambodian Living Arts. She says, “The biggest challenge for the dancers was to balance creativity and plausibility, as dances are based on Cambodians’ daily life.” Cambodians and foreigners will have the opportunity to discover or revisit Cambodian traditional culture with the new season of Plae Pakaa starting this Oct. 13 until Mar. 28 at the National Museum in Phnom Penh. Among other daily performances, The Children of Bassac will present you their new show Morodok Angkor (Angkor heritage) every Monday and Thursday from 7pm to 8pm, which offers daring revisited versions of Apsara dance, along with folk dances such as Kab Krobey Phek Sra (Praying dance) and Robam Rengtbong (showing the life in Pailin province).

Cambodian Living Arts celebrates its 15th anniversary this year. To mark its achievement, CLA will be submitting a regular column to AsiaLIFE to explain the world of traditional art forms to our readers.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 85


Bliss 29 Street 240. Tel: 023 215 754 A beautiful colonial building houses this exquisite shop with funky patterned cushions, quilts and an excellent clothing line. The health spa at the back of the shop also sells Spana beauty products. Open from 9am to 9pm (closed Mondays). Color Vintage 168 Street 13 Color Vintage is Phnom Penh’s premiere shop for refined vintage styles for men and women. We source authentic articles from around the world and offer free alterations for a perfect fit! Buy, sell or exchange. Couleurs D’Asie 33 Street 240 Tel: 023 221 075/ 099 499 478 www.couleursdasie.net info@couleursdasie.net Established in Cambodia for more than 15 years, Couleurs d´Asie has developed a full range of textile products for home decoration, clothing and fashion accessories. Jewellery, essential oils, soaps and more are on offer. A custom service for existing products is also available. Dara Shoes 10 Street 166, near corner Street 107. Tel: 012 855 173 / 097 8097 143 Good quality shoes, boots, bags, belts and leather products made to order. Jasmine Boutique 73 Street 240. Tel: 023 223 103 www.jasmineboutique.net Established in 2001 by Kellianne Karatau and Cassandra McMillan, this boutique creates its own collection of designs twice a year using hand-woven Cambodian silk. Open 8am - 6pm. Khmer Attitude Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Tel: 023 981 888 Fashion boutique that offers the finest Khmer silk clothing for men, women and children, including designs by Romyda Keth, and exclusive jewellery that complement the limited edition outfits. Kool as U 141 Street 19 (north of Street 172) Tel: 012 735 991

86 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

www.facebook.com/koolasu Specialist for men wears and tailor. Open daily from 9am - 9pm. La Clef de Sol 10 Street 208. Tel: 012 394 915 A design boutique offering home decor, women’s fashion, kids clothes, bags, accessories and continually updated design surprises. Near KFC on Norodom Blvd. Open 9am - 6pm Monday - Saturday Lim Keo 9 Street 222. Tel: 012 941 643 Pret a porter by Lim Keo, son of Sylvain Lim, the master of Cambodian fashion. Lost‘N’ Found Vintage Store 321 Street 63 cnr Street 322 Tel: 023 640 5047 Vibrant vintage shop offering a selection of interesting, handpicked second-hand dresses, handbags, belt, purses and other accessories. Men’s clothing available too. The collection is constantly changing and the attractive prices already make it popular amongst expats. Luna Boutique 8E1Street 278. Tel: 023 220 176 www.lunaboutiquephnompenh.com Original and stylish fashion designs for men and women.The tailor-made creations, designed by modern Cambodian stylist Mengchou Kit, are fit for any occasion. Luna Boutique is located in the heart of Phnom Penh, in front of Anise Hotel, while its sister shop - Luna Shoes - is just next door. Open daily 8am - 9pm. Promesses and Kaprices 20 Street 282. Tel: 023 993 527 Lingerie shop stocked with exclusive French and Thai undergarments. Chic, new prêt-à-porter shop Kaprices is located upstairs. Open 9am - 7pm. SentosaSilk Uniform 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Tel: 012 962 911/ 023 222 974 sentosa@online.com.kh Well known for its professional management ability, SentosaSilk gives clients efficient and reliable service through quality systems and procedures that consistently enhance product quality and reliability.


Sobbhana Boutique 23-24 Street 144/49 Tel: 023 219 455/ 023 219 452 www.sobbhana.org, A not for profit organisation founded by Princess Norodom Marie, offering a range of colourful, handwoven silk products. Profits fund training, medical care and education of weavers. Smateria 8Eo Street 5. Tel: 023 211 701 7 Street 178. Tel: 023 214 720 www.smateria.com Boutique specialising in accessories made from recycled materials including a range of bags and wallets made from old fruit juice cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets. Subtyl 43 Street 240. Tel 023 992 710 www.subtyl.com Up-market boutique selling Cambodian handmade women’s clothes, scarves, shoes, bags and other accessories in contemporary and interesting designs, the Subtyl collection combines class with colour. ChilliKids children’s clothing is also stocked at the shop. Open 9am - 7pm.

Food & Wine

AusKhmer – The Pantry Shop 125 Street 105 Tel: 023 993 859 /023 214 478 This small deli features a variety of well priced wines, Australian beers, and French delicacies, cheeses, antipasti, and cold cuts. Open 10am - 8pm. Camory – Premium Cookie Boutique 167 Sisowath Quay. Tel: 023 224 937 Makes cookies using produce from the provinces such as cashews from Kampong Cham and Mondulkiri honey. A portion of the profits fund education for a local orphanage. Open 9am - 8.30pm. Celliers d’Asie 62B & 98 Street 432. Tel: 023 986 350 Wine supplier with the largest quantity of retail stock in town, has been providing wine to most of the top hotels and restaurants for over ten years. Open 8am -12pm, 2pm - 6pm, closed Sun. Comme a la Maison 13 Street 57. Tel: 012 951 869 Decidedly sophisticated French restaurant has a small delicatessen and bakery at the back of the restaurant ideal for that morning baguette or croissant with your coffee. Open from 6am - 10.30pm. Dan Meats 51A Street 214. Tel: 012 906 072 Phnom Penh’s man of meat, Lanzi, supplies his strictly non-vegetarian products to many restaurants around town. Open 7:30 - 6:30, closed Sun. Kurata Pepper Cnr. Streets 63 & 322. Tel: 023 726 480 Selling organic Koh Kong pepper and associated products, Kurata is one of the more unusual shops in town. Open daily 8am - 7pm. Japan Home Centre 48A Street 294 (btwn St 63 and Monivong Blvd) Tel: 089 266 851 www.facebook.com/ japanhomecentrecambodia A place where you can find all of your

household needs. Open daily from 10am to 8pm Open Wine 219 Street 19 Tel: 023 223 527 Aircon wine shop and tasting gallery sells wines, severac, calvados and meat. Open 7pm - 11pm. Red Apron 15-17 Eo Street 240 Tel: 023 990 951 Home of wine enthusiasts in Phnom Penh is both a wine boutique and tasting gallery. With around 300 wines, the boutique has more range than the supermarkets. Open 9am - 9pm. Supercheap Cambodia 87 Street 360, Tel: 023 631 3668 336A Monivong Blvd, Tel: 023 977 779 www.supercheap.com.kh Budget shop claims to offer the biggest variety of wines and spirits in Cambodia as well as the cheapest prices. Open 8am - 10pm. The Chocolate Shop 240 35 Street 240 Tel: 077 666 402 Premium Chocolate shop with a large range of Cambodian-made Belgian chocolates including some classics such as pralines, truffles, bars as well as some unique Cambodian flavoured products such as Mondolkiri honey pralines and Kampot pepper encrusted chocolates.Open 9am - 7pm from Monday to Saturday & 9am - 4pm on Sunday. Second outlet in BKKI Street 63. Third outlet in Aeon Mall, Ground floor - Sweet Island. The Deli 13 Street 178, Tel: 012 851 234 Café and bakery with take away breads, sandwiches and pastries. Now has a second outlet on Street 51. Open 6.30am - 6.30pm, delivery service (within 30 minutes) 7am-11pm.

TROPICAL & TRAVELLERS MEDICAL CLINIC

Silks & Accessories

Friends ‘n’ Stuff 215 Street 13 Friends ‘n’ Stuff shop sells products made by the parents of children in need, from various Friends projects, as well as other consignment items. After some serious shopping, you can relax here with a manicure and massage by Mith Samlanh’s beauty training students at The Nailbar. Friends ‘n’ Stuff has a small shop at Russian Market and Romdeng restaurant as well. Open daily from 11am to 9pm.

Dr.Scott BSc.MBChB. DRCOG.DipVen. (U.K.) -20 years of medical experience in Cambodia

Tel: 012 898981 No.88 St.108 Phnom Penh www.travellersmedicalclinic.com

Mekong Quilts 49 Street 240 Tel: 023 219 607 www.mekong-quilts.org Outlet for NGO Mekong Plus, stocks a large range of hand-crafted bed covers, home accessories, gifts and decorations. Benefits Mekong Plus, which promotes health initiatives in Svay Rieng Province. Open 9am - 7pm. Sentosa Silk 33 Sothearos Blvd, cnr Street 178 Tel: 023 222 974 www.sentosasilk.com Using a colourful range of Asian silks, Sentosa creates men’s and women’s clothing, accessories and soft furnishings. Sentosa employs disadvantaged people. Open daily 8am - 7pm.

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Himawari Hotel Cambodiana French Element Hotel & MW Medical AG Service

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AsiaLIFE Cambodia 89


Aranya Exhibition @ Chinese House

Nerd Night @ Code Red

Photography by Rudi Towiro

90 AsiaLIFE Cambodia


Perrier Exhibition @ D22 (Phnom Penh Tower)


soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

HELADO NEGRO

KAREN O

PARTYNEXTDOOR

ALEX CLARE

Roberto Lange’s fourth LP as Helado Negro is a study in duality. His textured, ambient sound swings between hazy murmured vocals and a pulsating bass drum machine. Lyrics shift between English and Spanish, a reflection of Lange’s hybrid identity as the Florida-born son of Ecuadorean immigrants. Double Youth was crafted in Lange’s home studio using his voice and a computer, and the intimacy of the album’s production steers its soulbearing tone. Lange’s inspiration comes from the image featured on the album cover, an image of two young boys—one of which is Lange, the other a child whose name he can no longer recall. The record is a meditation on memory, sparked by Lange’s accidental discovery of the photograph and his recognition of the fleetingness of time.

For those used to Karen O in full Yeah Yeah Yeahs mode, her first solo album will garner either delight or distaste. Her crush songs, as the record is titled, are short and achingly sweet, with scant arrangements. On the one hand, these low-fi tunes reveal Karen O’s vulnerability under her fierce punk persona. On the other hand, the scratchy, demo-quality of the album feels frustratingly unfinished. But perhaps that’s exactly what Karen O wants to evoke, the very roughness of crushes. According to the liner notes, these songs were written at a time in Karen O’s life when she thought she’d never love again. Her ultimate message may be best summed up on “Native Korean Rock”: There’s one thing you should keep in mind / and that’s / no one understands.”

“Summer’s over, and we’re watching the sun finally set”, sings Jahron Brathwaite on “East Liberty”, the auto-tuned opener of his debut studio album. As PARTYNEXTDOOR, the 21-yearold R&B artist creates slow jams with the seductive essence of nightfall. Brathwaite is signed to OVO Sound, the label founded by fellow Canadian Drake, and he’s joined by the rapper on breakout single, “Recognize”. He may be one of Drake’s protégés, but he still could take some notes from his mentor. Too many of his lyrics indulge in sleazy tropes, crossing a line that Drake’s ballads usually manage to just avoid. Songwriting aside, the album’s slick production—including samples from Disclosure’s ubiquitous “Latch” and Missy Elliott’s “Ching A Ling”—is still right for setting the mood for romance.

With a lion’s voice that stretches from a purr to a roar, Alex Clare’s songs build a forceful momentum. The British singersongwriter’s second album departs from the dub-step rhythms of his first album, focusing on Clare’s soulful vocals, swelling instrumentals, and verses about the glorious highs and lows of relationships. Clare’s big break came in 2012 when Microsoft licensed his single “Too Close” and his song was suddenly everywhere. His follow-up strives for the same anthemic territory, with likely contenders in “Just A Man”, which echoes Avicii’s hit single “Wake Me Up”, and “War Rages On”, the album’s most amped-up number. But Clare also knows how to turn it down, as demonstrated on the Robbie Williams-reminiscent “Take You Back” and the lovelorn “Not in Vain”.

DOUBLE YOUTH

92 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

CRUSH SONGS

PARTYNEXTDOOR TWO

THREE HEARTS


topten

endorsed

Official 97.5 Love FM Phnom Penh Top Ten 01 Somebody To You 02 Rude 03 Maps 04 Classic 05 Wiggle 06 Am I Wrong 07 Shadow 08 Really Don’t Care 09 Stay With Me 10 Try

The Vamps – Ft. Demi Magic Maroon 5 MKTO Jason Derulo – Ft. Snoop Nico And Vinz Austin Mahone Demi Lovato – Ft. Cher Sam Smith Colbie Caillat

UK Top Ten 01 Changing 02 Blame 03 Prayer in C 04 Lullaby 05 Shake It Off 06 I’m Not The Only One 07 Black Widow 08 Superheroes 09 Rude 10 Blame It On Me

Sigma Calvin Harris Lilly Wood and Robin Schulz Professor Green Taylor Swift Sam Smith Iggy Azalea and Rita Ora The Script Magic! George Ezra

US Top Ten 01 All About That Bass 02 Shake It Off 03 Anaconda 04 Black Widow 05 Bang Bang 06 Stay With Me 07 Maps 08 Break Free 09 Rude 10 Boom Clap

Meghan Trainer Taylor Swift Nicki Minaj Iggy Azalea and Rita Ora Jessie J, Ariana Grande and Nicki Minaj Sam Smith Maroon 5 Ariana Grande and Zedd Magic! Charli XCX

American Football Brett Davis When September rolls around, it’s an exciting time for football fans. Those from places in the southern hemisphere, like myself, get worked up for finals footy as the season draws to a close. While those from North America go bananas as the American football season kicks off. The professional form of American football, known as the National Football League, is the most popular team sport in America and the most profitable sporting league in the world, generating an estimated 10 billion dollars annually. The game at the collegiate level is also immensely popular. Although I hail from Australia and grew up playing rugby union, I had an early introduction to the American game. I still remember my father coming home one morning from his shift-work job and telling me I should watch this thing on television called the Superbowl. It was January 1995 and the game saw Joe Montana’s San Francisco 49ers victorious over Dan Marino’s Miami Dolphins by 38 points to 16. I was captivated by the pageantry of the game, the dazzling show extravaganza of it all. But what really struck me then, and has ever since, was the contest. It is said that sport at its highest level is complex skills executed brilliantly under extreme pressure. If there’s a more perfect embodiment of that

sentiment than American football at its highest level, then I don’t know it. The explosive element to American football, as exemplified by the snap, is what separates it from other codes such as rugby or soccer, that have more of a continuous flow. Within that few seconds it seems there are bodies everywhere, even though there are always only 11 men from each side on the field. And within that time there is intelligence (yes, even on a football field, for tactics and strategy are an integral part of the game), and the kind of grace and poise that in almost any form of sport passes as beauty. Of course that is not the only thing that happens in each brief period of play. There is brutal physical contact, the collision. In the modern era that aspect of the game is increasingly deemphasised, but as anyone who has played a full-contact sport will tell you, there is a strange intoxication that comes with it. Even fans who have never stepped across the white line understand this, and it is the undeniable beating heart of the game’s appeal. I will always be a rugby fan first and foremost, it was the game I was weaned on. However there is something about American football that is part athletic excellence and part razzledazzle that makes it sort of larger than life. Kind of like the country itself.

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 93


bookshelf What If?: Serious Scientific Answers to Absurd Hypothetical Questions Randall Munroe Houghton Mifflin Harcourt

Fun, engaging, enlightening and hilarious, this is a book with the answers to some weird questions like, Is it possible to cry so much you dehydrate yourself? What would happen if you tried to hit a baseball pitched at 90 percent the speed of light? Or perhaps you want to know what would happen if everyone on earth aimed a laser pointer at the moon at the same time, or what if you could drain all the water from the oceans? As he does in his extraordinarily popular xkcd webcomic, Randall Munroe applies reason and research to hypothetical conundrums ranging from the philosophical to the scientific

The Secret Place Tana French Viking Adult

A star of Irish crime fiction, Tana French returns with a new Dublin Murder Squad novel. An old murder investigation at an upper-class girls’ school is revived when new evidence is uncovered, so a rag-tag team of detectives with different agendas attempt to unravel the truth inside the secrets, loyalties, and misdirection thrown their way by two rival groups of teenage schoolgirls. French’s pitchperfect prose nails teenage lives with uncanny precision, and offers a chilling portrait of the ways in which teenage friendships can overrule any conventional morality. The author’s talent for creating finely drawn charachers and gripping plotting are what makes the book stand out.

94 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

I’ll Drink to That: A Life in Style, with a Twist Betty Halbreich Penguin Press

Betty Halbreich spent nearly forty years as the legendary personal shopper at New York department store Bergdorf Goodman, where she worked with socialites, movie stars, and ordinary women off the street. She has helped many find their true selves through clothes, frank advice, and her own brand of wisdom. But Halbreich’s personal transformation from a naive young girl to a fearless truth teller is the greatest makeover of her career. The book traces her tumultuous marriage, descent into mental illness, and then recovery through her new-found vocation. Meticulous, impeccable, hardworking, elegant, and delightfully funny, Halbreich has never been afraid to tell it to her clients, or readers, straight.

The History of Rock ‘n’ Roll in Ten Songs

Greil Marcus Yale University Press Unlike all previous versions of rock ’n’ roll history, this book omit almost every iconic performer, event and turning points that everyone knows. Instead, Greil Marcus selects ten songs recorded between 1956 and 2008 to dramatize how each embodies rock ’n’ roll as a thing in itself. Some of the song choices include “All I Could Do Was Cry” by Etta James and then Beyoncé; and “To Know Him Is to Love Him,” first by the Teddy Bears and almost half a century later by Amy Winehouse. In the author’s hands these and other songs tell the story of the music, which is the story of the desire for freedom in all its liberating glory.


boxoffice

THE EQUALIZER

OUIJA

ALEXANDER AND THE TERRIBLE, HORRIBLE, NO GOOD, VERY BAD DAY

THE BOOK OF LIFE

Veteran Hollywood actor Denzel Washington returns to the big screen for another typically action-packed outing. Having faked his own death to live a quiet life in Boston, the former black ops commando is forced out of hiding to rescue a young girl called Teri. He comes face-to-face with a violent mob of Russian mafia and as he serves vengeance against those who prey on the harmless, his desire for justice is reawakened. Also starring Chloe Grace Moretz, Marton Csokas and Dan Bilzerian.

Halloween wouldn’t be complete without a good horror movie to sink your teeth into and if it’s a night of fright you’re after then watch Ouija. Pitting itself as a supernatural horror film, the film follows the usual recipe to get you hiding behind your hands. After a friend is brutally killed in an accident, a group of teenage friends decide to contact them through the ancient spirit board. Instead, they awaken dark powers and are forced to confront their darkest fears. Produced by horror stalwarts Michael Bay, Brad Fuller and Andrew Form, of The Texas Chainsaw Massacre and Friday the 13th fame, this promises to be full of nail-biting moments.

We’ve all had them, especially living in Cambodia. You know, those days where everything possible goes wrong. Well, Disney’s latest film follows 11-year-old Alexander’s worst ever day, starting with gum getting stuck in his hair, followed by one calamity after the other. But when Alexander tells his upbeat family about his disastrous day, he fails to rouse any sympathy – that is until his family find themselves living through their own terrible, horrible, no good, very bad day. Starring Ed Oxenbould, Jennifer Garner, Steve Carell and Dylan Minnette.

Light-hearted humour and adventure comes in the form of animation film, The Book of Life. Lovelorn Manolo is a young man who is torn between fulfilling his family’s expectations and following his heart. In love with the beautiful Maria yet battling the affections of the charming Joaquin, he embarks on an adventure that spans three fantastic worlds, where he must face his greatest fears. The film features the voices of Diego Luna, Zoe Saldana, Channing Tatum and Christina Applegate.

COMING SOON JULY MOVIE RELEASES Legend Cinemas See www.legend-cinemas.com for screening schedule The Equalizer Oct. 2 The Good Lie Oct. 3 Annabelle Oct. 10 Alexander and the Terrible Oct. 15 Dracula Untold Oct. 21 The Book of Life Oct. 23 Ouija Oct. 29 Horns Oct. 31

Major Cineplex at Aeon Mall See www.majorcineplex.com.kh/ for screening schedule The Equalizer Oct. 2 Annabelle Oct. 3 Smiling Oct. 3 The Good Lie Oct. 4 The White Haired Witch Oct. 10 Love, Rosie Oct. 23 Queen Oct. 27 Horns Oct. 31

AsiaLIFE Cambodia 95


pub quiz 1. Which docu-drama directed by Ron Howard stars Tom Hanks, Kevin Bacon, and Ed Harris? 2. Who released the album 13 in 1999? It reached number one in the UK charts. 3. Which Southeast Asian public holiday usually starts on Apr. 13? 4. In the Friday 13th films, what does Jason wear on his face? 5. In the 2001 film, what are Thirteen Conversations About?

Jan 6. Which city is served by the airport that was, until 1994, named Jan Smuts Airport? 7. Which actress was famously stabbed to death in the shower in Psycho? 8. Who died in a hotel room from an overdose of heroin in October 1970? 9. Jansher Khan won the World Open a record eight times. In what sport? 10. Who, in 1993, lost the Wimbledon final despite being 4 - 1 up in the final set?

22. Which box office flop was, in 1995, the most expensive film ever made? 23. How many players make up a water polo team? 24. In 1815, the Duke of Wellington defeated Napoleon in the Battle of Waterloo. In what modern day country is Waterloo? 25. “Water, water, everywhere, Nor any drop to drink” comes from which famous poem?

Celebrity Sideshow! 26

27

5

Gems

Water 21. Which city in Ireland is famous for its crystal? 96 AsiaLIFE Cambodia

2

28

3

3

1

1 29

6

4 2

7

3 8 8 9

30

9 4

5

Fire 16. Who claimed “we didn’t start the fire” in 1989? 17. What is the name of Mozilla’s free open-source web browser? 18. What is the Italian name for Florence? 19. Fire was one of the classical elements. Name the other three. 20. Who invented a lamp to reduce the danger of firedamp in coal mines?

2

7

8

6

9

5

1

7

6

1

1. Apollo 13 2. Blur 3. Buddhist New Year (Chaul Chnam Thmey or Songkran) 4. A “hockey” mask 5. One Thing 6. Johannesburg 7. Janet Leigh 8. Janis Joplin 9. Squash 10. Jana Novotná 11. Ruby 12. Alf Garnett 13. Sapphire (Saffy) 14. The Emerald City 15. Lou Diamond Phillips 16. Billy Joel 17. Firefox 18. Firenze 19. Earth, Water, Air 20. Sir Humphrey Davy 21. Waterford 22. Waterworld 23. 7 24. Belgium 25. The Rime of the Ancient Mariner 26. Phil Collins 27. Samuel L Jackson 28. Tommy Lee Jones 29. Leonardo DiCaprio 30. Julia Roberts

11. Which song gave the Kaiser Chiefs their first UK number one single in 2007? 12. American TV character Archie Bunker was based on which British character, star of Till Death Us Do Part? 13. What is Eddie’s daughter called in Absolutely Fabulous? 14. What is the capital of The Land of Oz? 15. Who played Ritchie Valens in La Bamba?

4

pub quiz answers

13

no holds barred




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