VISUAL MERCHANDISING // TREND JOURNAL 2016
OV E RV I E W With the goal to attract and engage consumers, visual merchandising often looks to the trends that are taking place at the time. Whether it be collaborating with a blockbuster film or capturing cultural influences, visual merchandising is constantly seeking new and unique ways to appeal and surprise the customer. With the continuous cycle of movements and influences happening within our society, this journal aims to determine and analyze the trends that are taking place now as well as those for the near future. Looking at a variety of trends- whether they be social, cultural, political, or economicthis journal relates these influences and how they affect the world of visual merchandising. Different elements of visual merchandising will also be explored, including trends affecting window displays, store layouts, and brand aesthetics; but most importantly, how trends can positively influence the consumer to shop.
ASHLEE SCOTT // FASM 440 // SCAD
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WHITE OUT // P4
MULTI MEDIA // P8
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MANNEQUIN PERSONALITY // P16
SUMMER BRIGHTS // P20
SCULPTURAL GEOMETRICS // P12
C O N T E N TS
01 W H I T E O U T Taking a less is more approach, one of the latest emerging trends developing in the world of visual merchandising is the concept of the white out. Minimal and pristine, this trend is significantly influencing a new approach to store design. With a variety of retailers adopting this look, including Christopher Kane, Issey Miyake, and Helmut Lang, the white out concept provides a blank canvas to work with and allows the merchandise to stand out on its own. Utilizing all-white spaces creates a striking and timeless background that lets the product serve as the key focus to the consumer, much like an art gallery uses neutral walls to showcase featured works more profoundly. Additionally, white spaces provide the opportunity to incorporate and
MARCH 31, 2016
mix colorful elements and props without feeling overwhelming or too busy. Many retailers have also chosen the all-white space concept for its tranquil and calming presence to provide shoppers with a relaxed environment. Many retailers have also adjusted lighting within stores to provide a more natural light using softer cooler tones, and some have even implemented lighting that mimics the natural pattern of the sun to better integrate the outdoor and indoor experience. One retailer using this concept of the white out store is Helmut Lang. Created by local architecture practice Standard, Lang’s new retail space is his second in the Los Angeles area but will serve as the U.S. flagship. The building, a former art gallery
RIGHT // Helmut Lang’s U.S. Flagship Store 4
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space, has a light open feel to it with the incorporation of simple lines, staying true to the original aesthetic of the space. Lang’s 7,000 sq. ft. store stays true to the brand’s minimalist DNA, which features white felt walls and pale concrete floors that exude a sense of luxury and show the juxtaposition of raw and refined. While Christopher Kane’s aesthetic is much different than Helmut Lang’s, Kane’s new retail space also utilizes an all-white look but is just as successful for showcasing the merchandise. Created by John Pawson, Christopher Kane’s first boutique in London is minimal and elegant using off-white surfaces and flooring, neutral finishes, and mirrored walls. Additionally, transparent rails and glass vitrines are used to provide an even clearer focus on the product. The simple design of the store truly showcases the delicacy of the garments and lets them stand out, creating an almost ethereal feel. LEFT // Christopher Kane’s London Boutique
RESOURCES: Many other retailers have also adopted this look, including the eyewear store C29 in Greece and Camper’s store in Osaka, Japan. All these various examples truly show that the white out trend can work in many different ways and is not limited by one direction. This “blank canvas” provides visual merchandisers the opportunities to experiment and play with interesting props and features or finding ways to innovate how the merchandise is displayed. The white out concept may be simple in design but is effective in its aesthetic display and emphasis on the product, and creating a calm and serene shopping environment.
• http://retaildesignblog.net/2015/11/11/helmut-langstore-by-standard-los-angeles-california/ • http://www.standardarchitecture.com/news/back-toroots-for-helmut-lang • http://www.johnpawson.com/works/christopherkane-store/ • http://www.designboom.com/architecture/johnpawson-christopher-kane-store-mount-streetlondon-08-10-2015/ • h t t p s : / / w w w. w g s n . c o m / c o n t e n t / r e p o r t s / # / Visual+Merchandising
BOTTOM LEFT // C29 in Greece // BOTTOM RIGHT // Camper’s in Japan
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APRIL 14, 2016
M U LT I M E D I A With the continual advances taking place in the world of technology, many retailers and brands have sought new ways to incorporate these technologies in both window displays and in-store to create a unique and cutting edge digital experience. More and more brands have implemented technology in various ways through the overall experience. Ralph Lauren and Rebecca Minkoff have created smart mirror concepts within their stores, Holt Renfrew has integrated holograms, and Topshop has used interactive displays just to name a few. A recent trend taking place specifically within window displays is the use of media screens to showcase video or interactions. Retailers such as Stella McCartney, Gucci, Barney’s and DSQUARED2 have incorporated media screens within their window displays as a way to not only include
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technology, but to also complement and enhance the overall design and aesthetic of the windows. These screens provide passersby an engaging and interactive experience that takes the traditional static display and puts it in motion. Visual merchandising has always been about engagement and has to be added at just the right time and provide the right information in order to truly be effective. The use of media screens within window displays is eye-catching and is a growing trend taking place within the realm of visual merchandising. One example of the use of media screens can be seen with Gucci. The brand unveiled the new design concept for their window displays in their New York store for February 2016. The window displays featured the spring/summer 2016 collection, designed by Alessandro Michele, set against
RIGHT // Gucci New York (February 2016) 9
chevron printed walls and floors. A series of screens sit on the back wall with various content playing while the merchandise is situated alongside. Gucci proves that traditional can be mixed with innovative. Instead of simply doing an entire digital screen, the brand utilizes the multiple screens to enhance the product that is featured on a traditional mannequin. Another example is that of Barney’s New York. With the opening of the company’s store situated on the original location of the first Barney’s, the brand is seeking to create a modern downtown New York feel. The windows are a celebration of New York City and feature multi media installations of motion-picture footage of photographer Bruce Weber’s work. The screens showcase an array of subjects from icons like Lady Gaga to street shots of NYC. The incorporation of these media screens effectively tell a story that Barney’s wishes to convey while staying true to the aesthetic of the brand.
LEFT // Gucci New York (February 2016) 10
RESOURCES: Other retailers have also implemented media screens within their window displays to better enhance the product. Stella McCartney’s window display in Paris uses media screens to enforce the concept of her spring / summer campaign which is about friendship and love. DSQUARED2 uses screens to show the runway footage which allows the display to not only show the featured product but also show other options available. Using media screens does not always have to be solely focused on the technology itself, but can be integrated to complement the design of the window or the meaning of the message being conveyed. More and more retailers are using media screens to enhance and better engage the consumer.
• http://vmsd.com/content/next-store-masteringdigital-experience • http://0-pro.windowswear.com.library.scad.edu/ trends/design-trend-multi-media-screens • http://www.cpp-luxury.com/gucci-unveils-newwindows-design-concept/ • http://www.vanityfair.com/culture/2016/01/barneysnew-york-returns-downtown • https://jmsketchbook.wordpress.com/2016/02/14/ stella-mccartney-campaign-analysis/
BOTTOM LEFT // Stella McCartney // BOTTOM RIGHT // Barney’s New York
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03 S C U L PT U R A L
APRIL 19, 2016
G EO M E T R I C S
After the Global Shop 2016 took place in Las Vegas, many trends seemed apparent, one being the use of sculptural geometric shapes in displays as well as used as fixtures within stores. Global Shop, the largest annual trade show and conference for the retail design industry, features every aspect of the design concept, including store fixtures, store operations, and digital applications. While art continues to have a huge impact on retail design, architecture was seen as a key driver for new and emerging trends. Pulling direct inspiration from the lines and shapes of architecture, many vendors showcased these geometric designs in a variety of formats during the event. The use of clean lines and geometric shapes was seen throughout the trade show
within many different areas, including fixtures, mannequins, and surfaces. Additionally, faceted objects through the use of geometric shapes was seen at the trade show. The new direction is modern and innovative with focus on creating not just a geometric shape, but in a three dimensional form. This trend provides a fresh update to the traditional fixtures and mannequins of most retail stores. Many brands have already incorporated sculptural geometric designs within the retail space, including Selfridge’s, Nicholas Kirkwood, and Melange. For their past Christmas window display, Selfridge’s created a “Journey to the Stars” concept drawing inspiration from the zodiac. The unconventional Christmas scheme was imaginative and mystical with an RIGHT // Nicholas Kirkwood
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other-worldly experience. The Shinola windows on Duke Street featured abstract geometric “stars” that showcased accessories and bags. This window used 31 suspended, interconnected steel geometric sculptures created by Elemental Design. These three dimensional shapes reflect this growing trend of distinct architectural influences. Robert Storey, a London based set designer and art director, is well known for his geometric fixtures and displays. Having worked with companies such as Topshop, Harvey Nichols, and Victoria Beckham, Storey often uses architectural influences that translate as both bold and sophisticated. For Nicholas Kirkwood’s window, Storey created architectural frameworks that would showcase the product in an exciting way. The forms are bold and interesting and also incorporate neon lighting to better show off the displayed shoes. Storey has often included sculptures within his designs, but stays true to a brand’s identity and heritage. LEFT // Selfridge’s Window Display 14
Melange also incorporates sculptural designs within its Kuwait store. Black and white geometric stalactites hang from the ceiling doubling both as a window display and a functional merchandise area. Additionally, the store focuses on perfect symmetry and multiplication of perspectives through the use of repeated mirrors. This glamorous retail store does an effective job of balancing the spatial experience with the functionality of the store. Additionally, sculptural geometrics are also being seen within mannequin design, giving a multifaceted form that is modern yet sophisticated. Geometric shapes, heavily influenced by architecture has seen continued application within the retail world and is sure to continue to grow into many different aspects and forms.
RESOURCES: • http://retaildesignblog.net/2015/09/29/melangestore-by-ahmad-fakhra-massive-order-kuwait-citykuwait/ • http://www.sightunseen.com/2015/11/robert-storeyset-designer-for-kenzo-nike-and-more/ • http://www.a1retailmagazine.com/magazine/ christmas-windows-and-displays-2016/ • http://www.retail-focus.co.uk/vm/1613-selfridgesdestination-christmas • https://www.wgsn.com/en/
BOTTOM LEFT // Melange // BOTTOM RIGHT // Faceted Mannequin
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MAY 10, 2016
M A N N EQ U I N P E RSO NAL I T Y Mannequins have always been an essential tool for retailers to use to grab the attention of the consumer. These silent sellers often serve as the focal point for the brand and represent what is to be expected therein. Mannequins have changed throughout history from hyper-realistic forms to abstract geometric shapes. Today, however, one of the most important trends taking place with mannequins is the integration of personality. With the Internet changing the way people shop, mannequins that are unique and tell a story are much more effective than traditional forms. Many various trends have been seen in mannequin design to further inject a sense of personality. Many retailers, including Louis Vuitton and Marina Rinaldi, have incorporated wild and unconventional wigs to add a touch
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of playful whimsy. Another emerging trend is the use of androgynous mannequins that blur the line between men’s and women’s dressing codes. Other trends include surface detailing with gold and copper, in motion mannequin poses (perfect for activewear,) and touches of vintage charm that have a sense of craftsmanship and tradition. Global Visual Group, a major supplier of mannequins, featured eccentric and unique mannequins at the Retail Design Collective in 2015. The mannequins combined various aesthetics and styles into one, creating a one-of-a-kind mannequin with a somewhat vintage charm. Mixing various materials, including wood and linen, also gave the forms a heritage feel. Another brand, Atrezzo, also featured unique mannequins with color blocked sections and copper detailing that gave a look of playfulness while staying
RIGHT // Global Visual Group 17
modern. Some mannequins even featured a translucent marbleized texture that made the form even more interesting. Mannequin art has become an essential part of pop culture and is often featured even on social media. In fact, there is a huge audience for mannequins on social media with accounts like @Insannequins showcasing outrageous designs. German fashion designer Michael Michalsky created some Internet buzz this year with his unique onefoot-high 3-D printed mannequins wearing miniatures of his couture. Displayed in the “Reality� exhibit at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, the miniatures were super realistic and highly detailed, not to mention embracing a new and growing trend in technology of 3-D printing. Meant to reminisce the fashion dolls of the 17th century, Michalsky wanted the focus to not only be on the clothing itself, but the entire presentation. LEFT // Atrezzo Mannequins
RESOURCES: Other designers are looking into sculptural mannequins that almost feel like works of art. Faith Bartrug and Ralph Pucci create mannequins that reflect a sense of personality, beauty, and art. Bartrug’s design features sculptural elements applied to the face. Pucci has long been a mannequin designer with the focus of designing high end and artful forms. Many of his recent designs have drawn inspiration from cultural trends. Consumers today want mannequins to be more personal and relatable – to tell a story. More and more retailers and brands are adopting these trends to enliven the space and draw more people in, as the window is the most powerful way to bring the consumer to the store.
• http://0-pro.windowswear.com.library.scad.edu/ trends/mannequin-trend-wild-wigs • https://purplemaroon.com/blogs/news/41628228ralph-pucci-art-the-design-of-the-fashion-mannequin • https://www.aabacosmallbusiness.com/advisor/ post/108201453502/mannequin-madness • http://vmsd.com/content/mannequins-fun-and-profit • http://www.sportswear-international. com/news/stories/Mannequin-trends-forspringsummer-2016-10534
BOTTOM LEFT // Michael Michalsky // BOTTOM RIGHT // Faith Bartrug Design
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05 S U M M E R B R I G H TS
MAY 19, 2016
With summer quickly approaching, many retailers have embraced the warmer weather with brighter and more colorful window displays. The use of intense and vivid colors has been seen in various ways, whether done in one singular color or done in a rainbow effect. Oftentimes, the merchandise itself is typically white which tends to better contrast against such bold colors. Additionally, many brands have incorporated bright colors to evoke the sense of relaxation and vacation as another means to encourage the consumer to come in and buy. One example includes Louis Vuitton who created simplistic yet vivid displays for their March 2016 windows in New York. The window featured arranged shapes in vivid colors placed in the back with the
mannequin and accessories showcased on transparent stools. The design has a strong modern appeal yet the bright colors add a touch of youth and playfulness and are sure to attract anyone walking by. Kate Spade also incorporated rainbow string designs in the backdrop of the New York store window, which mirrored the playful whimsy of the brand. Topshop also implemented summer brights within its Regent Street store. Organized by RIBA, the display also utilized cutting edge architecture practices to create a unique and collaborative work. The goal was to reinvent the ever present window mannequin that would showcase Topshop’s new spring collection in an exciting manner that made the fashion itself the focus. The RIGHT // Louis Vuitton, NY
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wheel highlights various merchandise pieces that can be viewed from many different angles. It also allows the merchandise to be easily changed and allow freshness to be added to the window with minimal effort. Harrod’s in London also implemented summer brights into their display, but created with a more singularly pronounced color. In collaboration with SFD, the 12 windows were given the concept of “London Calling,” including iconic phone booths and tannoys. The mannequins and merchandise themselves were mostly black and white, yet stood out from the bright pink backgrounds. Also, bold graphics were also mixed within the design with playful and sculptural formats to better reiterate this “London Calling” campaign. Lastly, Lord and Taylor also incorporated summer brights within their display, but also used the central
LEFT // Topshop Color Wheel Display
RESOURCES: theme of Cuban influence, reflecting even the political trends that are taking place. The scheme was titled “Cubana Cool” and reflected the ease and vividness of the Caribbean country. Also, the backgrounds often showcased tropical prints which added to the theme itself and also the feel of summer time. Many retailers and brands have been seen using the trend of summer brights in both window displays and in-store designs. Whether done monochromatically, a rainbow effect, or with the mix of tropical prints, summer brights is an emerging trend having a profound impact on retail design.
• http://0-pro.windowswear.com.library.scad.edu/ trends/windowswear-pro-top-window-design-trendsof-april-2016 • http://global-display.co/blog/bringing-the-springspirit/ • http://www.fashiontrendsetter.com/v2/2016/02/19/ lord-taylors-window-displays-nyc-feb-16/ • http://www.seeneon.com/topshop-colour-wheel/ • http://retaildesignblog.net/2016/03/07/harrodslondon-calling-windows-by-sfd-london-uk/
BOTTOM LEFT // Harrod’s London // BOTTOM RIGHT // Lord & Taylor, NY
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VISUAL MERCHANDISING // TREND JOURNAL 2016 ASHLEE SCOTT // FASM 440 // SPRING 2016