Information in our restaurant capsules reflects the opinions of the newspaper staff and its reviewers. The newspaper accepts no advertising or other considerations in exchange for reviews, which are conducted anonymously. We invite the opinions of readers who think we are in error.
garlic (no red sauce). It comes topped with a trio of provolone, feta and mozzarella cheeses and finished with sliced onions and both sun-dried and Roma tomatoes. The blend of cheeses was lovely, all nicely melted, creamy and rich. The feta was nicely balanced with the other ingredients. The baked tomatoes were a nice touch and the thinly sliced onions were similarly tender and delightful. The House Special ($12.99) was a weighty combination of pepperoni, sausage, ham, ground beef, Applewood-smoked bacon, mushrooms, black olives, Roma tomatoes, green peppers and onions. There was a lot going on here, but the pie was also enjoyable — we were especially happy to find our bacon nicely crisp. Still, we preferred the white pie over the heavy-handed supreme. On both pies, the crust came out nicely baked, golden brown, with a crisp exterior and soft chewy interior. A respectable crust, indeed — key to any exemplary pizza pie. But a return visit to Mellow Mushroom yielded the best pie of all, the “Holy Shiitake” ($12.49). Again, this pizza is constructed with a base of their delightful olive oil and garlic spread with a blend of two cheeses: mozzarella and a sharp, aged Italian cow’s milk cheese known as Montamore. At the heart of the pie is a sumptuous trio of mushrooms: Shiitake, button, and Portobello. Caramelized onions and fresh chives join the mix. It’s finished with a drizzle of garlic aioli and black truffle oil. The generous portion of mushrooms provides enough meatiness to satisfy even the most ravenous carnivore, and the addition of fragrant truffle oil — from the fanciest of fungi —gives the pie an earthy, slightly floral flavor. Mellow Mushroom offers just over a dozen specialty pizzas, many with flavor combinations you won’t find anywhere else in these parts. Its “Red Skin Potato Pie,” for example, comes topped with sliced, roasted red potatoes, smoked bacon, sour cream and spicy ranch dressing, and the “Bayou Bleu” is garnished with grilled shrimp and Andouille sausage. It even ventures into Asian territory with its “Thai Dye” pie, with grilled curry chicken, basil, cucumbers, and sweet Thai chili sauce. Many of these things we’d never imagine would work on a pizza, but folks continue to gobble them down, so we’re not judging —and we’re excited to try them all.
BELLY UP
B Breakfast L Lunch D Dinner $ Inexpensive (under $8/person) $$ Moderate ($8-$20/person) $$$ Expensive (over $20/person) CC Accepts credit cards
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neered mini-locomotive delivers patrons meals. 6813 Cantrell Road. No alcohol. 501-975-7401. LD daily. ALLEY OOPS The restaurant at Creekwood Plaza (near the Kanis-Bowman intersection) is a neighborhood feedbag for major medical institutions with the likes of plate lunches, burgers and homemade desserts. Remarkable Chess Pie. 11900 Kanis Road. Full bar, All CC. $-$$. 501-221-9400. LD Mon.-Sat. BR Sun. B-SIDE The little breakfast place in the former party room of Lilly’s DimSum Then Some turns tradition on its ear, offering French toast wrapped in bacon on a stick, a must-have dish called “biscuit mountain” and beignets with lemon curd. Top notch cheese grits, too. 11121 Rodney Parham Road. Full bar, All CC. $$. 501-716-2700. BL Wed.-Sun. BAR LOUIE This chain’s first Arkansas outlet features a something-for-everybody menu so broad and varied to be almost schizophrenic. 11525 Cantrell Road, Suite 924. Full bar, All CC. $$-$$$. 501-228-0444. LD daily. 11525 Cantrell
Road. 501-228-0444. BIG WHISKEY’S AMERICAN BAR AND GRILL A modern grill pub in the River Market with all the bells and whistles - 30 flat screen TVs, whiskey on tap, plus boneless wings, burgers, steaks, soups and salads. 225 E Markham St. Full bar, All CC. $$. 501-324-2449. LD daily. BOBBY’S COUNTRY COOKIN’ One of the better plate lunch spots in the area, with some of the best fried chicken and pot roast around, a changing daily casserole and wonderful homemade pies. 301 N. Shackleford Road, Suite E1. No alcohol, All CC. $-$$. 501-224-9500. L Mon.-Fri. BOGIE’S BAR AND GRILL The former Bennigan’s retains a similar theme: a menu filled with burgers, salads and giant desserts, plus a few steak, fish and chicken main courses. There are big screen TVs for sports fans and lots to drink, more reason to return than the food. 120 W. Pershing Blvd. NLR. Full bar, All CC. $$. 501-812-0019. D daily. BOOKENDS CAFE A great spot to enjoy lunch
FRESH • HANDMADE • DELICIOUS
WINE DOWN WITH WINO WEDNESDAY! 8 WINES fOr $8, EvErY WEDNESDAY An educational and fun event narrated by sommelier Jeff Yant with a new theme every week. Come enjoy specially priced appetizers designed to pair well with the sampled wines! Lunch M-F 11-2 • Dinner M-W 5-9 • Dinner Thur-Sat 5-10 • Bar Open: Until Located in the Historic Mathis Building • 220 West 6th Street • Downtown Little Rock • 501.374.5100
C A S U A L
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Private events in the LULAV LOFT for 20-300
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www.italiankitchenlr.com • www.facebook.com/italiankitchenlr
ur o r o f d e li p p A e We’v k License Mixed Drin
911 501-868-3
with friends or a casual cup of coffee and a favorite book. Serving coffee and pastries early and sandwiches, soups and salads available after 11 a.m. Cox Creative Center. No alcohol, All CC. $-$$. 501- 918-3091. BL Mon.-Sat. THE BOX Cheeseburgers and French fries are greasy and wonderful and not like their fastfood cousins. 1023 W. Seventh St. No alcohol, All CC. $-$$. 501-372-8735. L Mon.-Fri. BUFFALO GRILL A great crispy-off-the-griddle cheeseburger and hand-cut fries star at this family-friendly stop. 1611 Rebsamen Park Road. Full bar, CC. $$. 501-296-9535. LD daily. 400 N. Bowman Road. Full bar, Beer, All CC. $$. 501-224-0012. LD daily. CAFE 201 The hotel restaurant in the Crowne Plaza serves up a nice lunch buffet. 201 S. Shackleford Road. Full bar, All CC. $$. 501-2233000. BLD Mon.-Sat., BR Sun. CATFISH CITY AND BBQ GRILL Basic fried fish and sides, including green tomato pickles, and now with tasty ribs and sandwiches in beef, pork and sausage. 1817 S. University Ave. No alcohol, All CC. $-$$. 501-663-7224. LD Tue.-Sat. CHEERS Good burgers and sandwiches, vegetarian offerings and salads at lunch and fish specials, and good steaks in the evening. 2010 N. Van Buren. Full bar, All CC. $$-$$$. 501-6635937. LD Mon.-Sat. 1901 Club Manor Drive. Maumelle. Full bar, All CC. 501-851-6200. LD daily, BR Sun. CHICKEN KING Arguably Central Arkansas’s best wings. 5213 W 65th St. No alcohol, All CC. $-$$. 501-562-5573. LD Mon.-Sat. CHICKEN WANG’S CAFE Regular, barbecue, spicy, lemon, garlic pepper, honey mustard and Buffalo wings. Open late. 8320 Colonel Glenn Road. No alcohol, All CC. $-$$. 501-562-1303. LD Mon.-Sat. CORNERSTONE PUB & GRILL A sandwich, pizza and beer joint in the heart of North Little Rock’s Argenta district. 314 Main St. NLR. Full bar, All CC. $-$$. 501-374-1782. LD Mon.-Sat. DAVE AND RAY’S DOWNTOWN DINER Breakfast buffet daily featuring biscuits and gravy, home fries, sausage and made-to-order omelets. Lunch buffet with four choices of meats and eight veggies. 824 W. Capitol Ave. No alcohol. $. 501-372-8816. BL Mon.-Fri. DAVID’S BUTCHER BOY BURGERS Serious hamburgers, steak salads, homemade custard. 101 S. Bowman Road. No alcohol, All CC. $-$$. 501-227-8333. LD Mon.-Sat. 4000 McCain Blvd. NLR. No alcohol, All CC. $-$$. 501-353-0387. LD Mon.-Sat. E’S BISTRO Despite the name, think tearoom rather than bistro — there’s no wine, for one thing, and there is tea. But there’s nothing tearoomy about the portions here. Try the heaping grilled salmon BLT on a buttery croissant. 3812 JFK Boulevard. NLR. No alcohol, All CC. $$. 501-771-6900. FLIGHT DECK A not-your-typical daily lunch special highlights this spot, which also features inventive sandwiches, salads and a popular burger. Central Flying Service at Adams Field. Beer, Wine, All CC. $-$$. 501-975-9315. BL Mon.-Sat. HILLCREST ARTISAN MEATS A fancy charcuterie and butcher shop with excellent daily soup and sandwich specials. Limited seating www.arktimes.com
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