Wings issue 24 September 2015 by Wings

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

ISSUE 24 SEPTEMBER–NOVEMBER 2015

THE INFLIGHT MAGAZINE OF ARIK AIR

WHERE TWO WORLDS COLLIDE A midlands meander in Kwazulu-Natal

PLUS

APERTURE ON AFRICA Behind the scenes of a trailblazing photography project FIT FOR LIFE Body and brain boosting activities

WELCOME

Message from the Arik Air Family © Diriye Amey / istockphoto

A EDITOR IN CHIEF Emma Woodhouse DESIGNED BY Phil Millard

PUBLISHER Inflight Publications Wings is published by Inflight Publications on behalf of Arik Air. Address editorial enquiries to editor@arikwings.com ADVERTISING SALES Nsikan Udo-Osoh ads@arikwings.com Call/Text +234 806 888 8686 Printed at Rotocayfo Impresia Ibérica, Barcelona All material is copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission of the copyright holder. While every effort is made to ensure all prices and data are correct at the time of publication Arik Air is not responsible for editorial errors. Opinions expressed in Wings are not necessarily those of Arik Air and Arik Air does not accept responsibility for advertising content. Any images or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk.

s the summer months begin to draw to a close and the final quarter of the of year approaches, I am delighted to introduce our next issue of Wings. While the summer holidays may be over, Arik Air continues to offer a fully operational and always expanding network of destinations for you to enjoy. We are excited to announce the launch of our new brand campaign, #ArikAdvantage. This is the first of its kind for Arik Air and has been developed to position us as a contemporary, expert and value-orientated airline. The campaign kicked off in Lagos in July and will run across traditional, social and digital media. We always strive to achieve the very best for our customers, which is why we are the number one airline in Nigeria and West Africa. Part of our campaign, #ArikAdvantage, is to highlight the strength of our commitment to offer value to all of our passengers. We want to invest in the very best and latest to showcase our efficiently and quality of service, which is what sets us apart from the competition. One of our key means of creating such value for you (our esteemed guests) is through our loyalty rewards programme “Arik Affinity Wings”. Through this scheme member can enjoy a variety of benefits, including free travel mileage. Please visit www.arikaffinitywings.com to enrol and for more information. Furthermore, please do take the time to take a look at our website — www.arikair.com — for special offers, which are held exclusively online. You can find deals on flights and special package hotel and flight deals. We really feel this provides value to our service and are pleased to share it with you. I have recently been alerted to an increase in the number of scam websites claiming to be operated by Arik Air. Rest assured, Arik Air is doing its utmost to protect its customers and provide a secure online environment for the purchase of their Arik Air tickets. We are working with the police and the fraud department to make sure that such fraudulent websites are shut down and the perpetrators prosecuted. More information on how to avoid fictitious websites can be found in the Arik Zone on page 99. For now, however, please be aware that the only legitimate online platform upon which Arik Air tickets may be obtained is www.arikair.com. In this edition, we take a look at exciting developments across Arik’s diverse destinations. Narina Exelby takes a tour of the natural wonders of Kwazulu-Natal – just a short trip from Johannesburg. Emma Forrest introduces the latest launches in travel experiences and gadgets, and we meet inspiring business people who are driven by helping others. We hope that you will enjoy the 24th edition of Wings Magazine. Thank you for travelling with us today. We look forward to welcoming you on board again soon. Fly Safe, Fly Well, Fly Arik Air

EDITORIAL DISCLAIMER

Wings is the inflight magazine of Arik Air and is published on a quarterly basis for Arik Air through Better Media B.V and its Nigerian subsidiary, Inflight Publications Ltd. The magazine is free to passengers on Arik Air flights worldwide. Please not that unsolicited manuscripts for publication in the magazine are not accepted. Materials in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without permission. Editorial materials and opinions expressed in Wings do not necessarily reflect the views of Arik Air or the Publisher. Arik Air does not accept responsibility for the advertising content and products and services mentioned within Wings are subject to change without prior notice.

Dr. Michael Arumemi-Ikhide Group CEO, Arik Air

ISSUE 24 SEPTEMBER—NOVEMBER 2015

CONTENTS

34 68 41 24 91 SEAT 1A 11 LIFESTYLE The forefront of travel news and trends

18 GALLIVANTER What’s on and when at Arik Air destinations

21 REVIEWS Books, blogs, film, art and music

24 FOOD & DRINK Restaurants, recipes and epicurean adventures

FEATURES 41 WHERE TWO WORLDS COLLIDE COVER STORY A midlands meander in Kwazulu-Natal

62 ENGLISH DISH Mark Bittman, in search of the best British fare on London menus

82 APERTURE ON AFRICA

Peter DiCampo on the Everyday Africa Project and its upcoming book

PEOPLE 58 BRIGHT IDEA

Wandering and pondering

69 TRUE ROMANCE

Meet Bright Simons, the social entrepreneur battling counterfeit medicines in Nigeria

30 HEALTH & BEAUTY

The burgeoning genre of romance fiction in West Africa

91 ROLE MODELS

News, onboard information and useful contacts

Invaluable tips and stories from African women in business

109 WINGTIPS

29 INFLIGHT RESPITE

Wellbeing, inside and out

34 FASHION

74 DESIGNING THE FUTURE

Style news and tips from fashion’s new frontier

Leading photographers interpret a theme for Lagos Photo Festival 2015

99 ARIK ZONE

Embark on the trip of a lifetime with Wings’ destination guides

CONTENTS

Contributors

Meet some of the talented people behind this issue…

Peter DiCampo

Narina Exelby

Nana Ocran

Belinda Otas

Peter DiCampo is a documentary photographer who began his career as a Peace Corps Volunteer and a traditional photojournalist — now, his work seeks to deconstruct that experience. Named one of PDN’s 30 Emerging Photographers to Watch, he has contributed to TIME, Newsweek, Vanity Fair, The Wall Street Journal, and Wired. His NGO clients include Medecins Sans Frontieres, Human Rights Watch, and The Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation. Peter is co-founder of Everyday Africa, the Instagram-based project that has blossomed into a global phenomenon, and is a regular speaker in classrooms on media stereotypes and the promotion of localised storytelling (page 82).

Narina Exelby is a freelance writer and editor who swapped stability in Cape Town for a life less ordinary. In early 2012. With 13 years’ worth of magazine deadlines behind her, Narina left her job as senior features editor on Women’s Health to embark on a new journey as a freelance writer, editor and photographer. For three years Narina and her partner, travel photojournalist Mark Eveleigh, have roamed the world, living wherever their work takes them. They’re currently based in a fishing village on the west coast of Bali. Narina grew up in Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve in the KZN Midlands. The sense of space, peace, love, familiarity and a lifetime of memories is something she always treasures about Kwazulu-Natal (page 41).

Nana Ocran is a Londonbased writer and editor who specialises in contemporary African lifestyles. She was Editorin-Chief for the Time Out Group’s series of guides to Lagos and Abuja and is a PanAfrican trends watcher for the Paris-based think-tank, The Breakthrough Innovation Group. A long-term contributor to Wings, she loves spotting cultural happenings and trends on the continent, “I’m constantly learning, learning and learning some more about people and places across Africa,” she says. Nana gives us the lowdown on Africa-centric cultural events at Arik destinations (page 21).

Belinda Otas is a cultural critic, journalist and blogger. She contributes to Al Jazeera, CNN, BBC, The Africa Report, and Monocle Radio’s The Globalist, on African affairs. She’s passionate about culture, social development, and gender issues in Africa and the diaspora. “The best thing about this job is interviewing people who live on purpose. By doing so they challenge me to do better.” Belinda interviews inspiring businesswomen who are making strides in environments that are often challenging for female entrepreneurs (page 89).

Your passport to the latest travel, lifestyle & entertainment news 12

LIFESTYLE

GALLIVANTER

CULTURE LIST

FOOD & DRINK

INFLIGHT RESPITE

HEALTH & BEAUTY

FASHION

Peace pods and a stately home hostel – New launches in travel

Your guide to the festivals, cultural highlights, parties and general fun and frolics at Arik destinations

Epic entertainment from September to November and beyond

Four Nigerian chefs eager to put their country's cuisine on the global food map

Choice words from West and South Africa, to add to your vocab

Mental and physical pursuits to get you fighting fit, for life

Top of the Shops - African fashion and design boutiques around the world

ONE FOR THE ROAD

New travel experiences worth trying out

SEAT 1A

LIFESTYLE The forefront of travel news & trends

One For The Road Travellers to and from Africa have more spending power than ever. Here’s our hotlist of new travel experiences worth trying out. WORDS EMMA FORREST

ccording to McKinsey, Africa’s consumer spending will rise from around $860 billion in 2008 to $1.4 trillion in 2020. Meanwhile, by 2030 the global middle class will have doubled in size, from 2bn in 2012 to 4.9 billion. With more spending comes more discernment, certainly when it comes to travel. When you have the means to see the world differently, why would you not follow the path less travelled? This autumn there’s a host of new types of experiences to enjoy, from innovative arts spaces to kit to give you peace of mind as you take your trip.

The peace pod

New boutique hotel

Stately home hostel

thegeorgelagos.com

From £20/bed, £60/private room safestay.co.uk

GEORGE HOTEL, LAGOS Located in Lagos’ prestigious Ikoyi Island neighbourhood, the family-run George Hotel is a boutique hotel designed for both business and tourists. With only 62 rooms and an intimate fine-dining restaurant with just 36 covers, service is ultrapersonalised, making it a haven in a hugely busy city. From $475 per night.

SOMADOME AT THE SURREY, NEW YORK Find peace between flights with a 20-minute session cocooned inside the Somadome meditation pod at the Surrey Hotel. The stress-busting pod has three modes that use different sound frequencies to guide the body into different meditative states, reinforced by LED colour therapy and a microcrystaline tile device designed to get energy flowing through your body. $60 or $45 with another spa treatment, Cornelia Spa, The Surrey Hotel, NYC thesurrey.com

SAFESTAY HOLLAND HOUSE, LONDON The Jacobean wing of the Grade-II listed Holland House, a historic house in the heart of one of London’s most prestigious parks, has been converted into an unusually posh hostel. Most rooms at Safestay Holland Park have en-suite bathrooms, plasma TVs and stunning park views.

Common Thread Cultural centre and artists residence, Thread Senegal By George (centre) Boutique hotel, George Hotel at Ikoyi, Lagos Stress Buster The Somadome meditation pod at New York’s Surrey Hotel

Lifestyle | SEAT 1A

Performing arts

Rural culture

THREAD SENEGAL An ambitious project designed to nurture creativity in an area around the remote village of Sinthian, a seven hour drive from Dakar, Thread welcomes a new wave of resident artists this autumn. American reportage photographer Thatcher Cook, up-and-coming Senegalese sculptor Sidy Diallo and New York-based painter Andrea Bergart will be developing creative programs to engage the local community.

ST ANN’S WAREHOUSE, NEW YORK Avant-garde theatre production company St Ann's Warehouse moves into a new permanent home in November after a $31m transformation of the historic Tobacco Warehouse in Brooklyn Bridge Park. The new waterfront arts space which includes a theatre, artists’ studio and landscaped garden, launches with an all-women cast production of Shakespeare’s Henry IV, starring actress Dame Harriet Walter. stannswarehouse.org

The concierge app

CONRAD LONDON ST. JAMES APP, LONDON Guests at London’s Conrad St. James hotel will now be able to check in by tablet or smartphone, as well as order room service and pick out which newspaper, pillows and bathroom products they want in their room now that it has adopted the chain’s concierge app. If they’re feeling really connected, guests can also borrow a branded ‘selfie’ stick in their mini bar to snap themselves in front of the capital’s hotspots. From £276/night conradhotels.com/london

Kids learning space

Attention Flashpackers Safestay, London’s posh hostel

SUGAR HILL CHILDREN’S MUSEUM OF ART & STORYTELLING, NEW YORK Kids can learn about the historic Sugar Hill area, as well as the rest of the world, through art and storytelling when this new children’s museum opens this month. Set in a spacious building designed by Nigerian architect David Adjaye, the museum is designed to engage 3-8-year-

olds through performances, exhibitions and hands-on workshops. sugarhillmuseum.org

Staten Island museum moves

STATEN ISLAND MUSEUM AT SNUG HARBOR, NEW YORK This month the Staten Island Museum moves into the newly-revamped Snug Harbor building. Surrounded by a botanical garden, this attractive 19th century building that was once a dormitory for retired sailors was saved from demolition in 1965 and has been transformed into a eco-friendly cultural centre.

Fine dining

HOTEL CHANTELLE, LONDON London foodies can now feast on fun fine-dining dishes until 3am at new restaurant Hotel Chantelle. Chef Seth Levine has drawn on the ‘American and fun French fare’ at the original Manhattan eatery for the restaurant’s menu that serves up twists on comfort food and molecular gastronomy, with dishes including Tuna Tartare Cigar served in a vintage glass ashtray. Main courses from £20, hotelchantelle.com

Smoking Hot Historic tobacco factory and new arts space, St Ann's Warehouse

SEAT 1A | Lifestyle

Keys to the Future App controlled security, August Smart Lock

Smart security

AUGUST SMART LOCK This clever gadget fixes to your door allowing you to control who goes in and out of your home, all via an app. Plumber, dog-walker, neighbour watering the plants: you’ll know exactly who has accessed your house and at what times. august.com

Lost luggage?

TRAKDOT Toss this gadget into your suitcase between your socks and your swimsuit and you’ll be able to find out via the Trakdot app whether it has followed you on your flights.

Packing Pro Portable wardrobe Rolo rolls into a compact tube

trakdot.com

Better packing

ROLO A sort of portable wardrobe that rolls up into a compact tube, the Rolo has separate mesh compartments that fit about four days’ worth of tops, trousers, socks, underwear and toiletries. Unfurl it when you arrive, hang it up using its hook and you have really easy access to all your gear without even having to unpack.

Got Back-up? The Leef iBridge adds 16 GB to your iPhone or iPad

of additional storage for photos, videos and music. Finally, we can stop panic deleting when a great photo op arises.

$49.99 rolotravel.com

leefco.com/ibridge

On a Roll

SHE LEADS AFRICA AND DEMO AFRICA, LAGOS Entrepreneurs, tastemakers, financiers and trendy techies will converge for two of the most

THE LEEF IBRIDGE This curved USB stick expands storage by slotting into your iPhone or iPad. It provides 16 GB

Start-up events

important startup events in Africa: IT and trend conference Demo Africa and entrepreneurs event, She Leads Africa, with pitches by day and parties by night. Conferences are not an obvious choice for a holiday but Cherae Robinson of Tastemakers Africa describes it as ‘the perfect "bleisure" [business + leisure] travel opportunity’ September 24-25 demo-africa.com September 26 sheleadsafrica.org

Baggage Claim Trakdot lets you keep track of your luggage at all times

Tour Senegal

AFRICA X AFRIQUE See Senegal – and Cape Verde – with a different angle on the Africa x Afrique trip by Tastemakers Africa. The deluxe holiday includes island-hopping by catamaran in Cape Verde, an exclusive preview of Kehinde Wiley's new artist hub outside of Dakar and immersion in Senegal’s music scene. Africa x Afrique Nov 25–Dec 3, 2015, tastemakersafrica.com

Three years ago Victor did alterations. Today his factory is altering the face of African fashion. Never stop moving forward.

#neverstop Also trading as Stanbic Bank Authorised Financial services and registered credit provider (NCRCP15). The Standard Bank of South Africa Limited (Reg. No. 1962/000738/06). Moving Forward is a trademark of The Standard Bank of South Africa Limited. SBSA 203603-6/15.

203603-276x210-Textiles.indd 1

2015/07/31 9:19 AM

SEAT 1A | Lifestyle

Mobile Entrepreneur Brainy Nigerians

Top tools for getting work done while travelling

According to Census data, Nigerian immigrants have the highest levels of education in the U.S. Although they make up a tiny portion of the population, 37 per cent hold bachelor degrees and a whopping 17 per cent have master’s degrees. The findings cite a cultural emphasis on education.

Gratitude Are first-world problems dragging you down? Compare the quality of life in your country with that anywhere else in the world. ifitweremyhome.com

Changing Perceptions Twitter users are challenging stereotypes , posting images that don’t fit the narrative of poverty and wild animals #TheAfricaTheMedia NeverShowsYou Trends taking off Fads ready for landing

Plastic, not so fantastic Senegal's National Assembly unanimously prohibited the production, importation and use of flimsy plastic bags in the country. Who’s next to join the global shift?

Mainstream Tourism Who wants to queue for overpriced attractions? Instead, visit the website dubbed ‘the AirBnB of experiences.’ In London, you can learn Djibouti hula hooping or go cheese rolling on Parliament Hill. Experiences are led by locals with skills to share. Uk.funzing.com

The Night bus London joins New York as a civilised city for transport on September 12th. The new Night Tube service will run 24 hours at weekends. The service takes in the Central, Jubilee, Northern, Piccadilly and Victoria lines initially, with night services expected to run every 10 minutes.

The World’s your Office Take advantage of great software, apps and sites

Perfect Projects

BASECAMP: EASY PROJECT MANAGEMENT Manage multiple projects and components, and collaborate with colleagues and clients easily with this online software tool, already used by millions worldwide. Basecamp is simply designed, easy to use and offers everything you need to complete a project including to-do lists, file sharing, chatting, messages, calendars and time tracking. The site offers a 60-day free trial before charging from $20 per month thereafter. Basecamp.com

Smooth Selling

VEND: RETAIL FROM ANYWHERE This cloud-based Point of Sale retail system is beautifully designed and makes selling to customers easy. Bringing all of your business operations together in one place, features include product and inventory management, customer management, accounting and

reporting. Membership starts from free to $85 per month for single outlet retailers. Also on the site, Vend University offers free content and webinars such as ‘how to start a retail business.’ vendhq.com

Inbox Overload

BOOMERANG: REPLY REMINDERS This Gmail plugin allows you to “boomerang” your email to remind yourself to follow up with a response at a later date. The service brings the email thread back to your inbox, allowing you to keep on top of replying to clients, sales contacts and other colleagues. The free account allows for 10 boomerangs per month, with higher-level options ranging from $4.99 to $49.99 monthly. boomeranggmail.com

Convenient Conferencing

FUZE: COLLEAGUE AND CLIENT COMMUNICATION A step up from Skype, this site

allows users to type and send files during calls, record calls for later purposes and send participants calendar invitations directly from the app. It can be used via a downloadable program, mobile app or via a conference-call number. Its plans range from free (up to three call participants) to $40 per month, including webinar capabilities. fuze.com

Amazing Accounting

XERO: MANAGING CASHFLOW Popular with small business owners, accountants and bookkeepers, Xero provides online accounting and invoicing services in one place. It integrates add-on services such as popular payment, customer-relationship management and business tools such as PayPal and Salesforce. The site also integrates with some online bank accounts, so you can automatically sync transactions. Pricing plans ranges from $20 to 40 per month Xero.com

SEAT 1A

GALLIVANTER What‘s on & when at Arik Air destinations

Africa Utopia When September 10—13 Where London This leading celebration of the best of African creativity comes back to London for the third year this September, with icons from the world of technology, fashion, culture and community coming together to show how African art and ideas can change the world. With sponsors including Arik Air, this year’s festival features some of Africa’s greatest artists across music, dance, literature and visual arts. Highlights include Gnawa fusion band Electric Jalaba and the launch of groundbreaking play Chineke!, Europe’s first Black and Minority Ethnic classical symphony orchestra. The orchestra will be performing an elegy in memory of Stephen Lawrence. Also sharing the stage will be award-winning scientists, journalists and entrepreneurs taking part in debates and giving talks on a range of issues and interests, from Nollywood to the issue of adoption in Africa. You might as well put on some stylish threads to match your thinking cap, too, and enjoy the best of African fashion and design on show. Southbankcentre.co.uk/whatson/festivals-series/africa-utopia

Style Utopia Prepare for a party at Africa Utopia in September Fela Rhythm Tony Allen, Afrobeat’s legendary musician, will play the Southbank Centre

Taste Of Joburg When September 24—27 Johannesburg Held at Montecasino, this festival of gourmet goodies is an unmissable event for local foodies. Chefs from 14 of Johannesburg’s best restaurants sharpen their knives to create special menus, reflecting their personal food philosophies and using the best seasonal ingredients. The best part is the informality – those days of frigid fine dining are over. Now, the Johannesburg food scene is much more focused on flavour and fun – especially the fun of discovering new taste combinations and ingredients plated in new ways. Alongside the restaurant fare is a programme of live chef demonstrations and a market running throughout the festival that showcases artisan producers, premium drinks,

boutique exhibitors and award-winning wineries. Tickets run from R80 for a standard ticket to R685 for a Clubhouse ticket. tasteofjoburg.com

Foodie Alert Taste Of Joburg promises to dazzle your tastebuds with original dishes

Africa On The Square

Thanksgiving Day Parade

When October 10 Where London

When 26 November Where New York

The huge stone lions that grace the edge of Trafalgar Square will feel right at home this October, when the Africa On The Square Festival returns to Trafalgar Square as part of the celebration of Black History Month 2015. Expect a relaxed atmosphere, with the sounds of rhythmic drumming from the live musicians and colourful cutting-edge fashion while you munch your way through delicious food stalls hailing from all corners of the continent. There’s plenty to see and do, with a line-up that includes dancing, acrobatics, and other performances, family-friendly activities for kids, and great fashion and food stalls at the African market. The event is absolutely free but it’s always advisable to come early to enjoy the best of the fesival’s offerings and events. Proceedings open at 12 noon and run till 6pm.

For an event so popular that pop-rockers Green Day and countless other musicians have written songs about it, this parade is surprisingly accessible. Colloquially called the Macy’s Day Parade for the department store that has sponsored it since 1924, this event sees thousands of cheerleaders, dancers, clowns, floats, marching bands, and balloons wind their way through Manhattan’s streets. Perhaps the most famous part of the festival are the enormous balloons in the shape of all the pop culture characters you can think of — from Superman to Mickey Mouse – floating overhead. It attracts about 45 million viewers on television each year, but there are so many vantage points that it’s still worth going to in person — as the three million that attend each year will attest to. The best pace to watch it is from Central Park West, and it’s best to get there before 7am for a front-row spot.

london.gov.uk/get-involved/ events/africa-on-thesquare-2015

West Africa: Word, Symbol, Song

When 16 October–16 February Where London An exhibition celebrating literature and music – from the great empires of the Middle Ages to the cultural dynamism of West Africa today makes up the British Library’s first major exhibition on Africa. The exhibition showcases music and literature – both written and oral – from the region’s 17 nations, and demonstrates how West Africans have harnessed the power of words to build societies, drive political movements, sustain

nycgo.com/events/macysthanksgiving-day-parade2

religious belief and fight injustice. In doing so, it will reference a millennium of history and bring visitors right up to the present. Beautiful manuscripts, historic film and sound recordings, books, photographs, and woven and printed textiles offer insight into a profound and engaging literary culture with centuries-old written heritage existing alongside ancient oral traditions. Hear the myth of the founding of ancient Mali in recorded performance. See the influence of religion through colourful fabric and the ‘saddlebag Qur’an’. Celebrate writers and artists including Africa’s first Nobel prize winner, Wole Soyinka, and musician and human rights activist Fela Kuti. Alongside the rich heritage of writing in West

Gallivanter | SEAT 1A

Lagos Fashion and Design Week When 28 October—1 November Where Lagos Lagos is becoming well-known as one of the most exciting emerging fashion cities in the world, and this event brilliantly captures the best of what’s happening in Nigeria’s fashion scene. With sponsors including Wings magazine, LFDW goes beyond run-of-the-mill runway shows and brings together designers from the Nigeria and other African nations, supporting them with business knowledge and master-classes. The action’s not just on the runway, either.

Africa – which is flowering today in new forms – artefacts emphasise the importance of oral literature, a creative art form expressed across a range of genres. Orature has deep musical

The fashion-forward flock to the Marketplace to buy gorgeous threads and accessories from budding designers. Highlights of last year’s shows run the gamut from the playful, youthful prints and shapes of Ituen Basi to Lisa Folawiyo’s ladylike frocks and Ejiro Amos Tafiri’s glamour gowns. The menswear game is strong, too. Mai Atafo showed pristine, yacht-club-ready suits and Orange Culture referenced Nigeria in their silk prints for men. Expect an even bigger and better production this year. lagosfashionanddesignweek.com

roots and is as often sung as spoken, most famously by West Africa’s griots (story-tellers and musicians). All these threads are brought together as visitors walk through the exhibition. The show begins with pre-colonial West Africa, and goes on to the major religions and their various traditions of art, writing and ritual. Moving beyond the region, it looks next at the transatlantic slave trade and the role of culture – writing, religion, music, and carnival – in resistance. The exhibition ends with ‘Story Now’, the marvellous and multi-faceted literary flowering of West Africa from independence to the present. boxoffice@bl.uk

Reviews | SEAT 1A

SEAT 1A

CULTURE LIST Books, blogs, film, art & music

Curating the Continent An annual pan-African festival in London, online platforms for poetry and visual politics, plus musical sounds from Dakar to Mauritania – cultural events from September to November, and beyond. WORDS

Cultural Festival A UTOPIAN CONTINENT The third annual Africa Utopia festival hits London in September. A cultural hybrid of talks, workshops, live performance, fashion shows and African retail, this year’s festival will host some of Africa’s biggest artists including Afrobeat legend Tony Allen, Senegal’s mighty Orchestra Baobab and South African singer-songwriter and producer Spoek Mathambo. There’s also plenty of

Fresh Sound Kenyan singer Maia von Lekow will play Africa Utopia

NANA OCRAN

performance space for those coming up in Africa’s music scene. Cameroon’s Blick Bassy has had a lot of attention for his album Akö, Kenyan Singer Maia von Lekow will also take to the stage as will Electric Jalaba with their psychedelic Gnawa fusion and dub reggae ensemble African Head Charge, part of a special DJ night. Plays and art exhibitions are also on the programme, including the launch of Chineke! – Europe’s first black minority

Dapper Dakarois Senegal’s mighty Orchestra Baobob

Talent Pool Hannah Pool, Curator of Talks and Debates for Africa

ethnic classic symphony orchestra, who’ll be premiering a newly composed elegy by composer Philip Herbert. Hannah Pool, Curator of Talks and Debates has been part of the Africa Utopia team from the start. Working alongside the festival founder, Jude Kelly, as well as the Southbank Centre team, she says of the festival, which started in 2012, “Africa Utopia came from a desire and a hunger to ensure that all this incredible creativity that’s coming out of the continent had an artistic platform.” In just a few short years, Africa Utopia has gained a huge amount of interest in other cities, including New York, as well as across Africa. With a central theme around the continent leading the way in thinking about culture, business, technology, fashion and politics, her programmed discussions

(which are free) give audiences perfect access to a broad range of international speakers. Hannah: “One of the things I’m most excited about this year is that we’re working with the NEST Collective who are an incredible arts group that I met in Nairobi. They do film and performance, and we’re bringing them over to do a collaboration.” Having been involved from day one, there’s a great deal that Hannah has absorbed while 21

SEAT 1A | Reviews

simultaneously bringing her own bright energy to the festival. “I think I’m at my most happiest programming or connecting with the continent in different forms, whether it’s artistically or through the talks and debates,” she says, “the pace of change in Africa is so fast. Although the Africa Rising narrative is complicated, in almost every field I touch on the continent, it feels like it’s at the forefront of all this exciting energy that’s fantastic to work on.” Africa Utopia is at the Southbank Centre from 10-13 September southbankcentre.co.uk

Poetry DIGITAL VERSE With archiving fast becoming a buzzword as far as preserving African culture goes, Badisha Poetry, the online site for African verse is a blessing for lyrical wordsmiths on the continent. With over 400 poets from 31 countries writing in 14 languages, this is a portal that’s kicked off a huge interest from mobile users – poets or not – while existing as a platform for promoting work by Africans and across African borders. The collected poems can be explored not just by name, subject title or region, but by emotion as well. That means that tapping in the words love, fear, joy, anger, surprise and other emotions will bring up verses from around the continent, with words that

Big Band Beats Bixiga 70 fuses African and South American rhythms

encapsulate any of those particular sentiments. Bidisha was originally an international poetry festival but by 2012 its founders – the Africa Centre in Cape Town – felt the need for an online forum due to the amount of creative activity both in and beyond South Africa. With sound recordings uploaded alongside biographies of new and established poets, this is a creative project worth tapping into. bidishapoetry.com

Illustration AFRICA ILLUSTRATED Inspired by a book in progress and a motivation to entertain and educate cartoon enthusiasts, the US-run Africa Cartoons site is a resource for visual satire,

commentary and general illustrative style. Set up by Tejumola Olaniyan, a professor of English and African Language and Literature, the site is essentially an engrossing, encyclopedic platform for contemporary and historical sketches, caricatures and comic strips by graphic artists and illustrators from the continent’s 54 countries. With just under 300 cartoonists represented, the styles and illustrated jokes and stories are diverse. Names include Willy Zekid, who went from cartooning for the Republic of Congo’s Ngouvou newspaper to honing his craft in Abidjan after the Congolese civil war of the late 1990s. There’s also the late Ghanaian cartoonist Frank Odoi. He was based out of Kenya but focused on West African gender and social issues. A healthy number of cartoons spring from Nigeria as well. Names there include the award-winning Ganiyu “Jimga” Jimoh, Ronke Adesanya whose illustrations have been placed in the Nigerian Daily Sketch and the Vanguard, and Josy Ajiboye who has been cartooning since the 1960s and exhibiting his work internationally.

africacartoons.com

Music ‘1973-1980’ AMARA TOURÉ (Analogue Africa) Griot Sounds Noura Mint Seymali and her band

Afro-Cuban maestro Amara Touré gets the compilation treatment in this retro-album released by the German label Analogue Africa. Every tune that

the Guinea Conakry-born musician released between 1973 and 1980 is featured in this latest production, but the threads of his vintage sounds go even further back, to the late 1950s when Touré would have headed over to Dakar to be a crucial member of the dynamic big band nightlife scene. analogueafrica.bandcamp.com

‘III’ BIXIGA 70 (Glitterbeat Records)

An explosive fusion of African and South American rhythm and sound perfectly sums up ‘III’ the simply titled third album from Bixiga 70. The 10-piece Brazilian orchestra has produced instrumental tracks that are spliced through with jazz, reggae, dub, electronica and samba influences. In all, this album contains a good 46-minutes of hip swerving musical bliss. glitterbeat.com

‘TZENNI’ NOURA MINT SEYMALI (Glitterbeat Records)

A fine blend of powerful vocals, blues influences and twangy guitar licks are at the heart of Noura Mint Seymali’s sound. Hailing from an ancient griot family from Mauritania, her music (beautifully created with the addition of her guitarist husband Jeiche Ould Chighaly) has also been shaped by her travels beyond North Africa’s Maghreb region to cities including New York and Dakar. Tzenni – meaning to circulate, spin or turn – is indeed a wonderfully danceable offering. glitterbeat.com

SEAT 1A

FOOD & DRINK Restaurants, recipes & epicurean adventures.

n recent times, a vibrant cuisine culture has emerged from Lagos to London, and Nigerian chefs have followed suit, creating innovative recipes while pushing the boundaries of their reach. Wings meets four chefs who changed careers in order to devote themselves to experimenting and developing Nigerian recipes.

Uzo Orimalade

Flavour Country Bold colours, knockout flavours and diverse traditions – four Nigerian chefs are eager to put their country’s cuisine on the global food map. WORDS

Local Foodie Uzo Orimalade wants to be known as the woman who took the mystery out of Nigerian cooking

BELINDA OTAS

Founder of Cupcake Couture Lagos and Uzo’s Food Labs At 10, Uzo Orimalade’s interest and passion for food and home entertainment was piqued. By 13, she was experimenting with meals for her family and became coordinator-in-chief of the domestic staff in their home, on behalf of her mother. Today, at 34, Orimalade is founder and CEO of Cupcake Couture Lagos and Uzo’s Food Labs. The former, which she started in 2011, is a bakery business while the latter, founded in 2013, is a “dynamic business and has me (Uzo) at the centre – a brand

deliberately built around my personality,” she explains, “Uzo’s Food Labs is a food and home entertainment brand that shows the average person interested in cooking and home entertaining how to make wholesome meals and entertain, using ingredients that are easily accessible and affordable.” Orimalade left a career in management consulting and investment banking to the dismay of some friends. “People asked ‘with your education, why do you want to become a baker?’ One female colleague - when I was telling her about the concept of Uzo’s Food Labs - accused me of perpetuating the stereotype of women belonging in the kitchen. Orimalade became resolutely determined as she embarked on her culinary career, “I knew I could make this dream of mine a reality if I paced myself and grew organically,” she says. “I love big flavours. I really believe we should push our taste buds out

Food & Drink | SEAT 1A

Kitchen Skills Tiyan Alile is founder of Lagos-based Culinary Academy

“The young professional chefs that are moving back home and influencing the space are more exciting. ” Tiyan Alile of our culinary comfort zones. It’s important to understand different foods and flavours first. That way, one can try doing different things with familiar ingredients.” Fascinated with food from the river regions of Nigeria, and how ‘catch of the day’ is integrated into everyday meals, it is Orimalade’s dream that people try more varieties of Nigerian food. “Nigeria is in the throes of a food renaissance. From the consumers who have become foodies to be reckoned with and are curious to try different things, to the creators – chefs, and home cooks re-inventing local ingredients. It’s all very exciting.” For now she remains committed to building Uzo’s Food Labs, which provides services that include cooking classes and demos for individuals, groups and corporate firms, and consulting for the food, beverage and hospitality sector, “I would love to be known as the woman who took the mystery out of Nigerian cooking”

Tiyan Alile Founder of the Culinary Academy “I owe a lot of my experience

with food to my mother,” says Tiyan Alile, “she introduced me to the kitchen before I was five years-old, experimenting with recipes, and baking and flipping pancakes.” A lawyer by profession, Alile gave up law after 10 years of practice to become a full-time chef and teacher. Over the years, she has developed different concepts and business brands. Alile has owned several food businesses starting with Tea Time cakes in 1993, selling cupcakes in secondary schools. She later set up Tees Hot Bites, a flaming Barbecue Grill at the Ibadan Golf Club before moving on to Matchsticks, a concept that made Nigerian food in a modern fusion style. Alile now owns an exclusive dinner club called Tarragon — named after her favourite herb — which is morphing into a restaurant and will be open for business before the end of 2015. Alile’s greatest culinary influence is travel, “When you travel you see the bigger picture, your senses come alive as you taste different foods and smell different aromas.” It is her view that despite a rapidly changing hospitality

industry in Nigeria, the food profile is lagging due to an inadequate number of trained chefs. The Culinary Academy, which Alile says is the only one of its kind in Nigeria, has developed an internationally recognised curriculum of teaching, ensuring that the school’s graduates are able to match the international standards required in a rapidly developing sector. “One of the most exciting factors right now about the Nigerian food scene is the distinction between culinary arts

education and a cooking or catering school. The young professional chefs that are moving back home and influencing the space are more exciting. People are getting more adventurous, daring and open-minded.” Alile hopes that more people will discover the diversity of Nigerian food. “I have travelled to the different regions in Nigeria — east, west, south and north, and I have eaten all kinds of food. I have been enchanted by their tastes,” she says, “Nigerians ought to be proud of their diverse and rich heritage and proud to spread the message that everything has a deep cultural meaning, including – and sometimes especially — food.”

SPICE OF LIFE

Follow these feeds to get acquainted with Nigerian cuisine Beautifully photographed recipes are accompanied by background stories, plus recipes for edikang ikong soup, homely yam mash and much more. eatingnigerian.com From moin moin to efo riro, these photos, videos and recipe links on Instagram will get you salivating. @dooneyskitchen This site and Instagram feed takes a modern approach to Nigerian cuisine with recipes for hibiscus granite, Nigerian stir-fry and even yam Bolognese. 9jafoodie.com

SEAT 1A | Food & Drink

Cross River Queen Nky Iweka, Executive Chef and author of Quintessentially Efik Recipes

Nky Iweka Partner and Executive Chef at Tupelo & Green and author of cookbook Quintessentially Efik Recipes’ Nky Iweka’s previous life could not be more different from what it is today. A former management consultant with blue-chip organisations across the UK and Europe, Iweka travelled extensively. “I discovered my inner glutton and that I had a talent for recreating meals I had eaten,” Iweka says about her time on the road. Iweka is also the author of a regional Nigerian cookbook: 'Quintessentially Efik Recipes – Foods of Nigeria' (published in 2014). On her quest to bring Nigerian food to the fore, Iweka says, “Worldwide, chefs are constantly reinventing their national dishes and creating truly beautiful masterpieces, worthy of any artist. I wanted the same for our food.” Quintessentially Efik Recipes’ is the first of its kind to showcase Efik recipes from Cross River State, and is part of a series called Foods of Nigeria, a project aimed at showcasing Nigerian dishes and culture from the nation’s multi-ethnic regions, to the world. Iweka started with Efik recipes because the Efik people are famous for their rich cuisine and hospitality. The book, which has garnered positive response from as far afield as Australia, Singapore and Iceland, proved to Iweka that there was indeed an appetite for Nigerian food. 26

“Food plays an important role in the social rituals of all ethnic groups within Nigeria,” she says, “however, many Nigerians do not know about the rich variety of food from their own regions much less other parts of Nigeria. Black African food is the last unexplored culinary frontier. This is one of the things I’m aiming to change.”

Chukwuemeka Vincent-Eloagu Founder of Hélène restaurant, Abuja Chukwuemeka Vincent-Eloagu has had a number of names including Chef Emeka and Chef E, plus recipes up his sleeves since he was eight years-old. His earliest recollection is of dabbling in the kitchen with his mother when he asked to make his own birthday meal. “I made a

Childhood Dream Chukwuemeka Vincent-Eloagu has been cooking since he was eight years-old

pot of jollof rice and everyone said it was good. I think they congratulated the effort more than the taste though!” he says. Crucially, in a society that is dominated by traditional career paths like being a doctor, accountant or lawyer, VincentEloagu’s family have encouraged his choice of becoming a chef. “As soon as I said it was something I wanted to pursue professionally, it was like a light bulb went off in everyone’s head. They’ve been super supportive,” he says. He even named his Abuja-based restaurant Hélène’ after his mother. Vincent-Eloagu is a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu Paris, culinary arts school in France. He has combined European cooking methods with Nigerian cuisine. A proponent of the growing afro-fusion trend, Vincent-

Eloagu says, “food makes people smile. I cannot see an ingredient without thinking about what I can do with it experimentally.” On the response to his fusion reinterpretation of Nigerian food, Vincent-Eloagu says, “People have been very curious. At first they had doubts but I’ve converted many. I believe it’s a gradual process because a lot of palates have been conditioned.” He adds: “People are happy that I’m doing food differently. Sometimes dishes can be so one-dimensional. It’s good to see someone shake it up. And I think my work speaks for itself.” For Vincent-Eloagu, one of the most exciting things about Nigerian food is that it has layers, in particular, its flavours. He gives the example of his favourite meal, Oha soup (A native Ibo soup eaten with pounded yam or fermented cassava known as akpu) as one of the best examples of what he means by the layers in Nigerian cuisine. “From the stock fish to the thickener (oho) to the oha leaves that are silky and smooth; It’s the layers of flavours in most Nigerian dishes from the north to the south that excite me,” “Nigeria has a rich food culture,” he says, “However, until Nigerians appreciate it, it will be hard to sell it to the rest of the world. “Until the Nigerian celebrates the Nigerian chef in Nigeria, it’ll be sometime before our food becomes mainstream like Indian or Chinese cuisines. The good news is that with the new awakening of Nigerian chefs, that time is nearer than ever.”

Inflight Respite | SEAT 1A

SEAT 1A

INFLIGHT RESPITE Wandering & pondering

Word Up Travel in West and South Africa to pick up some choice words from local languages WORDS

ADAM JACOT DE BOINOD

dam Jacot de Boinod worked as a researcher in London for Stephen Fry on the BBC programme, QI. He is also the author of The Meaning Of Tingo And Other Extraordinary Words From Around The World, published by Penguin Books, and Creator of the iPhone App Tingo, a quiz on interesting words. He presents us with some of his cultural and linguistic observations on the continent of Africa, devising a glossary of some of his favourite words from Arik Air destinations. Abula; the attempt of a baby to move lying on its belly (Setswana, South Africa) Bulunenekinoo; the first meal cooked by a bride (Mandinka, Senegal and Gambia) Chovochovo; the tendency to carry on talking after others have stopped (Luvale, Angola) Debideboo; a bird which pretends not to be able to fly but slips away any time an attempt is made to catch it (Mandinka, Senegal and Gambia) Fijoo; anger at someone other than the one who caused the anger (Mandinka, Senegal and Gambia) Gigirhi-gigirhi; to go from village to village exchanging gossip (Xitsonga, South Africa) Ipeje; an invitation to a banquet

(Yoruba, Nigeria) Jimbulwila; to walk in an unknown place, where there is no clear path (Luvale, Angola) Kavavangaheti; a dead animal so large people cannot finish its meat, such as a hippo, whale or elephant. (Tsonga, South Africa) Mmbwe; a round pebble taken from a crocodile’s stomach and swallowed by a chief (Venda, South Africa) Ntshadi; a dear little wife (Setswana, South Africa) Olumonron; one who understands people’s problems, God (Yoruba, Nigeria) Phitsisitse; to kill an insect by crushing it between the finger and thumb (Setswana, South Africa) Reke; to wait in expectation of another’s mistake (Yoruba, Nigeria) Sasamudilo; a drink of beer in the morning after a debauch, a pick-me-up (IsiNdebele, South Africa) Tindi; to express joy at seeing one’s parents, used of children (Xitsonga, South Africa) Uff; dirt in the ears or under the nails (Arabic) Vulwa-vulwa-vulwa; to run a little, stop and look round before proceeding, like a buck anxious to not be seen (Tsonga, South Africa) Wo-mba; the smiling in sleep by

children (Bakweri, Cameroon) Xilandzalandza; a child constantly staying close to its mother (Xitsonga, South Africa) Zunda; to indicate with one’s lips (Hausa, Nigeria)

All in a name

There are some fantastically evocative names given by parents to their newborns. Sometimes they refer to pregnancy or birth: U-Zenzo (m); things happened in the womb (Ndebele, Southern Africa) Anindo (m); mother slept a lot during pregnancy (Luo, Cameroon) Arogo (m); mother nagged a lot during pregnancy (Luo, Cameroon) Ige (f); born feet-first (Yoruba, Nigeria) Or they relate to a specifically memorable time: Abidemi (m); born during the father’s absence (Yoruba, Nigeria) Omolara (f); at the right time (Yoruba, Nigeria)

Wekesa (m); born during the harvest (Akan, Ghana) Edet (m); on market day (Efik, Nigeria) Or else they can refer to either prophecy or destiny: Amachi (f); who knows what God has brought us through this child (Ibo, Nigeria) U-Linda (f); mind the village until the father’s return (Ndebele, Southern Africa) Nnamdi (m); my father is alive (when thought to be a reincarnation of his grandfather: Ibo, Nigeria) Sankofa (f); one must return to the past in order to move forward (Akan, Ghana) Or simply to their parental reaction: U-Thokozile (f); we are happy to have a child (Ndebele, Southern Africa) Abeni (f); we asked for her and behold we got her (Yoruba, Nigeria) Anele (f); enough (given to a last born) (Xhosa, South Africa) 29

SEAT 1A

HEALTH & BEAUTY Well-being, inside and out

Fit For Life There’s more to keeping fit than going to the gym. Some activities can help keep your brain healthy too. Take up these activities at any age, and you could reduce your chances of physical illness and improve your mental health and well-being WORDS

Images © iStockphoto.com

EMMA FORREST

ertain types of activities have been found to have holistic health benefits above and beyond the intrinsic pleasure of learning. There may be physical health benefits to exercising for a minimum of 20 minutes, three times per week — as recommended by medical practitioners — yet exercising your body and your brain can enhance cognitive development and even stave off diseases that strike at an older age including dementia. “Brain health is like physical health,” explains Dr Thomas Bak, an expert in the relationship between language, cognition and motor function, who led the team behind a new research study out in July 2015 by psychologists at the University of Edinburgh: “The more you practice the better the benefits. But physical activity is also good for brain health as it stimulates blood circulation and your brain needs blood; if you improve your circulation, you boost blood circulation to the brain, helping it to work better.”

Perfect posture

"Yoga can make you toned, strong and flexible but its 30

benefits go well beyond the physical. Better posture from your poses helps balance your body, prevent a range of ailments including lower back pain, and leads to better breathing leaving you feeling more alert," says Paul Fox, Chair of British Wheel of Yoga Qualifications. “Yoga is the original stressbuster and the original mindfulness practice,” he says, “By sitting and watching your thoughts you gain perspective on your desires and your fears and how to control them.” According to a study by the University of Sheffield School of Health and Related Research, the discipline can also help with a raft of mind and body challenges including osteoarthritis, asthma, diabetes, pregnancy, heart disease, eating disorders, depression, menopause and even cancer. It’s an activity that you can take up at any age and with any level of fitness as there are so many versions to choose from, from the soothing Hatha style to the intense, hot and steamy Bikram method. After just eight weeks practising Hatha yoga,

“Brain health is like physical health: the more you practice the better the benefits” Dr. Thomas Bak older adults can boost their memory capacity and mental efficiency, according to a study by researchers at Illinois University. “Yoga is all about supporting lifestyle, so the practice a person does has to fit in their daily routine. As little as 15 minutes three times a week would be beneficial,” says Fox. TRY IT British Wheel of Yoga, London, bwy.org.uk, Iyengar Yoga Institute, New York, iyengarnyc.org, Chi’s Yoga, Lagos, chisyoga.com

Flex your lexicon

A recent study shows that spending at least five hours each

week learning a second language boosts cognitive performance: “When you use a second language you have to switch off from another language, forcing your brain to multitask. This sort of mental gymnastics ultimately makes your mind more alert and focused,” explains Dr Bak. Learning another language in childhood has the advantage of being effortless, but, he explains, studying a language in your twilight years is just as beneficial as your brain gets a workout when it engages in such challenging activities. Dr Bak’s team studied two groups, one learning gaelic, the other trying out various other

Health & Beauty | SEAT 1A

On Your Bike Cycling helps build new brain cells in the hippocampus Yoga Bunny The ancient practice boosts mental capacity

activities. The research concluded that the challenge and effort of learning a language creates ‘desirable difficulties’ that improve cognitive performance and which can have a lasting effect with continued practice. TRY IT Choose from 21 languages at SOAS Language Centre, London, Soas.co.uk, 17 at New School, New York, newschool.edu, 13 at Wits Language School, Johannesburg, witslanguageschool.com, and 13 online at Duolingo, duolingo.com

Wheels of fortune

One of the great things about cycling for exercise — like walking or running — is that you can integrate it into your day, riding your bike to work or to the shops, rather than having to make time for it like you would if you were hitting the gym or tennis club. Cycling is one of the best exercises for burning as many calories as possible, which is great for weight loss, but it also has other benefits. A study of 10,000 subjects organised by the British Medical

Language Lovers Duolingo founders: Severin Hacker and Luis von Ahn

SEAT 1A | Health & Beauty

shape recognition and problemsolving; in adults brain teasers exercise your brain muscle. TRY IT Sudoku and other puzzles, crosswords, chess or checkers. Sign up online for courses including Brain HQ, brainhq.com and Lumosity, lumosity.com

BRAIN TRAINING

Keep your mind young STAY FIT Aerobic exercise helps stall your mental decline after age 30, by enhancing nutrient and oxygen supply by improving blood flow. Nutrients can help restore memory and the chemicals released after exercise enhance mood. So you should feel happier, healthier, more confident and a good deal more energetic. CALM DOWN Stress debilitates your brain cells and hampers cognitive processes including memory and learning. Ensure you get plenty of rest as sleep boosts brain function. An afternoon nap for as little as 10 minutes is beneficial to health by improving memory, mood and alertness. In times of stress practice deep breathing and mindfulness. KEEP LEARNING Challenge yourself with activities that stimulate both left and right sides of the brain. The different sides of the brain focus on different skills so undertaking activities which work out both sides can help with concentration and coordination.

Images © iStockphoto.com

AVOID MULTI-TASKING Stay focused with the Ivy Lee Method, an alternative to' to-do' lists. n At the end of each work day, write down a maximum of six of the most important things to accomplish the following day. n Prioritise those six items in order of their importance. n When you arrive at work, concentrate only on the first task. Work until the first task is finished before moving on to the second. At the end of the day, add any unfinished items to a new list of six tasks for the next day. n Repeat this process every working day and you will be sharper and achieve more.

Healthy Rhythm

Notes for Life Learn an instrument and enhance working memory performance

Association showed that cycling for 20 miles a week can reduce the risk of coronary heart disease by 50 per cent. Cycling is a great cardiovascular exercise and boosts muscle tone but it’s also low-impact on your joints, which means you’ll be able to ride long after you’re too old to run. Cycling can even rejuvenate your body: research in the US and UK has shown that people who cycle just three times a week have the ‘biological age’ of a person who’s ten years younger. You’ll boost your brain cells too: a study by Illinois University researchers found that a five percent improvement in cardio-respiratory fitness from cycling led to an improvement of up to 15 percent in cognition. Cycling helps build new brain cells in the hippocampus, the part of the brain where memory is formed. The boost of blood flow and oxygen to the brain, which fires and regenerates receptors, can help ward off degenerative brain disease including Alzheimer’s. TRY IT Cycling in cities requires skill, so brush up on yours at Bikeability London, bikeability. org.uk, Bike New York, bike.nyc, I Ride Africa, Cape Town, irideafrica.com

Brain games

Brain training is a big trend in self-improvement, with websites

including Brain HQ and Lumosity offering online games that promise to sharpen your cognitive function, boost your memory and improve attention span. Though some psychologists are skeptical about the benefits of brain-training software over any other kind of brain-training, it’s claimed older people can claw back 14 years of ‘cognitive youth’ by doing puzzles that use words and numbers, including sudoku or crosswords. An American study of 3,000 men and women between 65- and 94-years-old cited by Ian Robertson, a professor of psychology at Trinity College in Dublin, found just ten hours of brain games improved memory, problem solving and reaction times in participants to match those of people up to 14 years younger. In children, jigsaws help improve their hand-eye coordination, enhance large and small muscle movements (motor skills) and improve memory,

Listening to music is relaxing and stress-relieving but if you learn how to play an instrument yourself, you stand to boost your brain skills while you do it. The multitasking you do when you practice playing an instrument involves very specific types of coordination and motor control, while reading music and listening to it helps to create additional neural connections that compensate for cognitive decline later in life. One study by Harvard neurologist Gottfried Schlaug found that just 15 months of musical training in early childhood led to structural brain changes associated with motor and auditory improvements. It’s never too late to reap the benefits of learning an instrument. Another study on a group of sixty 86-year-old non-musicians who took up the piano and participated in group percussion found that their cognitive abilities were improved. The report’s author Jennifer Bugos, Assistant Professor of Music at the University of South Florida, concluded that learning a musical instrument “enhances working memory performance while music listening instruction may contribute to cognitive control.” TRY IT Brooklyn Conservatory of Music, New York, bqcm.org, Bloomingdale School of Music, New York, bsmny.org, Music Lessons Johannesburg, musiclessonjohannesburg. co.za, Rockschool, UK, rockschool.co.uk

WEST AFRICA

Word, Symbol, Song Exhibition opens 16 October 2015 A season of literature and music – from the great empires of the Middle Ages to the cultural dynamism of West Africa today.

#BLwestafrica

Book now at

www.bl.uk The British Library Euston Road, London Adinkra cloth (Ghana). Fela Kuti by Bernard Matussière, reproduced by kind permission of Knitting Factory Records. Document recording the Vai script used in Liberia (detail), 1851. Gold-weight in the shape of a Sankofa bird (Ghana), 18th–20th century, courtesy of the British Museum. Senegalese sketches (detail) by P D Boilat, 1853.

SEAT 1A

FASHION Style news & tips from fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new frontier

Top of the shops Pick up a little bit of what you fancy from some of the best stores for African fashion and design, around the world WORDS

HELEN JENNINGS

South African Chic Designer labels at concept store, Maison Mara

Fashion | SEAT 1A

worldwide to discover new and emerging designers. Beaded clutches made in Kenya for Aspiga, printed textiles by Nigeria’s Banke Kuku and ladylike dresses by Ghana’s Bestow Elan all add allure to these London stores. 32 Dover Street, London, UK wolfandbadger.com

For print queens

Modern Mavens Johannesburg’s Thula Sindi opened in June 2015

here’s nothing like the thrill of discovering a new store to feed your retail therapy while travelling. And for lovers of African fashion, there are ever-more places to feed your addiction in destination cities around the globe. Whether you’re looking for sportswear, something smart or a party dress, look no further than these independent boutiques, both on the continent and beyond.

For uptown girls

THULA SINDI One of South Africa’s leading designers, Thula Sindi, celebrated a decade of making modern womenswear by opening his first flagship store in June 2015. The sophisticated space in Johannesburg’s Rosebank Mall offers his well-tailored ready to wear designs alongside a custom service and accessories.

sessions, running clubs and bike rides. 173 Machaba Drive, Mofolo Village, Soweto, SA thesis.co.za

For luxury lovers

MAISON MARA Kelly Mara Withey opened her Cape Town concept store earlier this year as “a little cocoon, a home-from-home for our clients.” In a three-storey 19th-century building with

wooden floors and marble beauty room, premium brands such as Proenza Schouler, Acne, Sonia Rykiel, Jil Sander and JW Anderson perch next to South African handbag line, Okapi. 5 Jarvis Street, De Waterkant, Cape Town, SA maisonmara.co.za

For hipsters

WOLF & BADGER With locations in Notting Hill and Mayfair, Wolf & Badger searches

VOU BROWN This northwest London stalwart is the work of Liza Vou Goje, who brings together an upbeat collection of womenswear including Nigerian stars Ituen Basi and Nkwo, Joburg’s Babatunde and Cameroon’s Bot I Lam. Vou Brown also pops up at the Africa Centre’s summer festival and at Africa Fashion Week London. 74 Willesden Lane Kilburn, London, UK voubrown.com

For ladies who lunch

DAKAR BOUTIQUE Social entrepreneur Diarra Bousso gave up a career on Wall Street in 2012 to move back home to Senegal and establish the Dakar Boutique Group, her womenswear initiative dedicated to local artisanship. She now heads up a trio of brands –

Jozi Style Soweto streetculture store, Thesis

Rosebank Mall, 50 Bath Ave, Johannesburg, South Africa thulasindi.com

For skaters

THESIS This street-culture store has been a hub for Soweto’s skaters and bikers since 2007. Co-founders Wandile Zondo, Galebowe Mahlatsi and Nkululeko Khumalo combine their love of sport and music into a lifestyle brand (think sweaters, caps, denim and t-shirts) and regular events such as jam 35

SEAT 1A | Fashion

ADD TO BASKET African fashion online is booming. Here are three of the best sites

JOIN THE FASHPACK Fashpa (slang for fashion parade) is one of Nigeria’s leading online stores selling a wide selection of youthful womenswear from the likes of Mohanista, Sally Bawa and Hemera as well as beauty brands Maybelline, Clinique and MAC. fashpa.com

Dakar Duds Find fab prints at Diarra Bousso’s boutique

Clean And Quirky New York’s MNZ store stocks Maki Oh

Diarra Bousso for leather goods, Mint for younger women and Diarrablu, her ready to wear line with a focus on geometric shapes and prints. Shop for the lot at her showroom in Dakar. 5 Sotrac Mermoz, Dakar, Senegal dakarboutiquegroup.com

Brooklynite Chiedza Makonnen and is dedicated to the style of 1970s stars like Diana Ross, whose image hangs on the wall. Cue maxi dresses, gold jewellery and glitzy clutches plus glossy magazines, coffee table books and beauty products.

For surfers

13th Lane, Osu, Accra, Ghana brownsugargh.com

BANTU WAX Bantu Wax by Yodit Eklund is famed for its ethically made, wax print-inspired swimwear. Previously stocked in department stores such as Barneys, she’s now refocusing her distribution on Africa by establishing her own surfer shacks. The first opened in Dakar in April; built from a shipping container and perched on the shores of Virage beach, it’s a shop downstairs, juice bar upstairs and has fast become a hot spot. Virage beach, Dakar, Senegal bantuwax.com

For divas

BROWN SUGAR Brown Sugar’s slogan ‘Soul. Good. Fashion’ pretty much sums it up. This bohemian boutique was opened in 2014 by 36

For tomboys

I.AM.SIGO Lagos-based designer Bubu Ogisi of I.Am.Sigo opened her debut retail space in July. The bright white store features moveable rails on bicycle wheels, which acts as a calm backdrop to the brand’s androgynous tailoring. For AW15, Ogisi presents East of West, a collection of Calamity Jane-inspired pieces dripping in crochet and fringing. 16 Karimu Kotun off Akin Adesola, Victoria Island, Lagos, Nigeria iamisigoonline.com

For cool girls

MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH Tucked away in the far reaches of the Lower East Side, Maryam Nassir Zadeh is a zen-like

SHOPPING SPREE GLEE Spree bills itself as “South Africa’s first magazine-styled shopping experience.” This translates as fashion shoots and on-trend lookbooks including an all-too tempting mix of local designers (Gavin Rajah, Marianne Fassler, Selfi) and big brands (Levi’s, Pringle, Nike). spree.co.za

ETHICAL AFRICA Londoners Kiran Yoliswa and Alae Ismail handpick ethical pieces from all over Africa including Pichulik necklaces, Kinabuti jackets, AAKS bags and Ameyo dresses. The girls also host pop-ups and document their colourful travels on their blog. styledbyafrica.com

concept store filled with an expertly curated mix of womenswear, art objects, accessories and the odd pot plant. The aesthetic is clean and quirky with Nigeria’s Maki Oh on sale alongside likeminded brands such as Marni, Carven, Rochas and Isabel Marant. 123 Norfolk Street, NYC, US mnzstore.com

Fashion | SEAT 1A

Bijou Boutique Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wolf & Badger

2015 EXPO

The Africa Downstream Week

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Import Substitution | Agriculture | Aquaculture | Food Processing Industrial/Manufacturing | Corporate Restructuring

www.projectcapital.nl We develop projects, on a fee basis, for select clients Minimum size $30million AMSTERDAM | LAGOS | TEL AVIV

Frequently Asked Questions What does PC+ do as “Fee Developer”? We take responsibility for the entire Project Development Process on behalf of Select Clients who do not have the required in-house Team to execute their Vision Are you Consultants? Absolutely not. Consultants tell you how to do it. We do it for you; we become your in-house Team What exactly do you do for My Project? Everything! Exactly as we do for our own Projects: ✚ Assemble and direct the Project Team (including Industry Experts and Management) ✚ Prepare all the documentation (including Financial Model and complete Information Memorandum that describes the Market, outlines and addresses Risks, etc) ✚ Identify potential Strategic Partners, high caliber Management, Investors and Lenders ✚ Negotiate with all Stakeholders until we reach Financial Closing with Investors and Lenders How do you finance the required work? Our Clients invest Seed Capital according to a budget, which depends on the complexity of their Project. How do you profit from the results of your work? Our industry standard Success Fees are included in the financing of the Project and are funded as part of the Project Costs at financial close

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KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa | COVER STORY

WHERE TWO WORLDS COLLIDE WORDS NARINA EXELBY PHOTOGRAPHY

MARK EVELEIGH

South Africa’s KwaZulu-Natal Midlands is an eclectic mix of places — a tame but somehow still wild part of Africa. The innately curious are drawn here, as are adventure addicts, serenity seekers, luxury lovers and travellers with young children. 41

COVER STORY | KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa | COVER STORY

ou could be forgiven, when travelling along the winding roads of the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands, for believing you’re somewhere in Europe. The gently undulating acres of stud farms and dairy farms; roads lined with white post-and-rail fences; restaurants offering tea and scones; and hotels with names that could be taken from a children’s story book… that cultivated European charm is everywhere. And yet this genteel area of South Africa’s KwaZulu-Natal province – just a five-hour drive from Johannesburg – is still so very African, so very bold, and dramatic. Many of the cows out here are Nguni, a majestic southern African breed. There are secret valleys and indigenous forests in which few people have walked; there is a fascinating history of war and battles; unspoilt nature reserves that have become a haven for such wildlife as storks and otters. In the winters, when the temperature drops and frost creeps in before dawn, the verdant hills and fields turn quite suddenly into shades of gold and brown and almost as they do, aloes explode long tubes of orange flowers into the landscape. The air, which in winter is dry and tangled with the smoke of wood fires and dust, billows and rumbles on summer afternoons under the weight of heavy, pensive African thunderstorms. In the homeland of the Zulus, very little is done in half-measures. And it takes just one weekend in this area for you to realise that — and to realise that one weekend simply isn’t enough time here.

The Midlands attracts all types of travellers – from honeymooners to adventure enthusiasts, families, foodies and art lovers

DO THE MEANDER The Midlands attracts all type of travellers — from honeymooners to adventure enthusiasts, families, foodies and art lovers. Many head to the area to “do the Meander” — the Midlands Meander, a tourism route that began 30 years ago with a handful of artists, weavers and potters who invited people to view their work at their home studios. The route exploded in popularity and there are now more than 150 members on the map, which is available at any of the establishments that belong to the official route (just follow the brown road signs). Keep in mind that not all attractions in the Midlands belong to the Meander, so be prepared to be flexible and stop off at places you come across that aren’t on your map. These are places not to miss…

Fields Of Green The Midlands Meander tourism route began 30 years ago Remembering Madiba The Capture Site honours Nelson Mandela

EXPLORE SOUTH AFRICA’S PAST Just outside the town of Howick and along the R103 road to Lions River, there is a spot that marks perhaps the biggest change in South Africa’s recent history. It was here that Nelson Mandela was arrested in 1962 and jailed for 27 years. For decades, this place was not recognised, but today, there is a very powerful and interesting sculpture that marks the place of Mandela’s arrest. The Capture Site (thecapturesite.co.za) also has a temporary exhibition that tells the story of Mandela’s life.

COVER STORY | KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

Soar in the thermals above the farmlands of KwaZulu-Natal – some of which are covered in snow during the winter months

ADRENALIN JUNKIES Sail through the spectacular indigenous forest at the Karkloof Canopy Tour (karkloofcanopytour.co.za). This eight-section, 30-metrehigh ‘foefie slide’ through the tree-tops isn’t just about the adventure (okay, maybe it is), it’s also a fun way to learn about the ecology of the forest. HAVE YOUR OWN WINGS Fly with the birds on a tandem paragliding flight (wildsky.co.za). From Amahaqwa mountain in Bulwer, a 45-minute drive from Howick, you’ll soar in the thermals above the farmlands of KwaZulu-Natal, some of which are covered in snow during the winter months.

NATURE LOVERS Walk among zebras, wildebeest and blesbok at Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve (umgenivalley. co.za). The reserve’s five trails, which vary from 1.2km to 8km, are relatively easy; the scenery out here is lovely. There are no big predators in the reserve. BIRD LOVERS Take a flask of coffee or chilled sundowners and spend a few quiet hours watching for birds from the hides at the Karkloof Conservation Centre on Gilmore Farm (karkloofconservation.org. za), one of the few places in the world where the natural habitats of blue, crowned and wattled cranes coincide. APPRECIATE ART Invest in art at Ardmore Ceramics (ardmoreceramics.co.za), where astounding creations are sculpted and painted by teams of African artists. Pieces are on display in the Museum of Art and Design in New York, the Museum of Cultures in Basel, and Christie’s auction house has acknowledged Ardmore works as “modern-day collectibles”.

(Clockwise) On The Hoof The Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve has a wealth of trail options Ardmore’s Art The detailed creations of Ardmore Ceramics are world-renowned The Wire Tackle the 30-metre high foefie slide as part of the Karkloof Canopy Tour Crane Spotting The Karkloof Conservation Centre is a birdlover’s paradise

KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa | COVER STORY

COVER STORY | KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

ÂŠ Diriye Amey

The gently undulating acres of stud farms and dairy farms; roads lined with white post-and-rail fences; restaurants offering tea and sconesâ&#x20AC;Ś that cultivated European charm is everywhere

KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa | COVER STORY

Saddle Up The Midlands offers perfect scenery and terrain – and it’s even better on horseback

COVER STORY | KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

Mighty Mouse Pop in for afternoon tea at Granny Mouse

CUISINE CULTURE For the past few generations, the verdant Midlands has been a thriving agricultural area – so it’s no surprise that the food served here is wonderfully fresh and wholesome. You could very easily travel from café to restaurant to market for days on end, but in case you want to squeeze in some other adventures, we’ve narrowed down the selection for you:

BREAKFAST The Karkloof Farmers’ Market (open Saturdays 7am to 11am; search Facebook for Karkloof Farmers Market) is the best place to begin a weekend in the Midlands. Hearty breakfasts, from pancakes to quiches to breakfast burgers, are sold here, along with fresh produce from the pretty Karkloof area: delicious cheeses, biltong, jams, breads, nougat and coffee.

COFFEE Pop in and grab a take-away artisnal coffee from Steampunk Coffee (steampunkcoffee.co.za), which is at Thokans Garage in Lions River. The brew here is outstanding; the owner-barrister goes to great lengths to ensure that every cup is the best you could ever have. LUNCH If you’re travelling with kids or want to combine your lunch stop with some shopping, the popular Piggly Wiggly (pigglywiggly.co.za) is the perfect place to while away a few hours. The restaurant serves good food and is surrounded by expansive lawns, jungle gyms and swings, a book store, clothing shops, a mini-golf course, ceramics shop, wine store, gallery, leather store, and more.

DESSERT Buy a pot of chocolate and dip everything from olives to cashews to crisps at Heavenly Chocolate (chocolateheaven. co.za) at The Junction in Nottingham Road. Try the sage and white chocolate and the curry chocolate — both of which are sublime. AFTERNOON TEA Pop in for an afternoon of tea and scones at riverside Granny Mouse’s Country House (grannymouse.co.za) or, if you’re a guest of the hotel, book a chauffeur-driven wine, beer and cheese tour of the area. DINNER The Bierfassl (rawdons.co.za) is a much-loved establishment in the Midlands and is famed for its eisbein and soups. The Austrian-style tavern also serves handmade German sausages and locally brewed beer, which patrons enjoy while watching over lazy rolling hills.

KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa | COVER STORY

For generations, the verdant Midlands has been a thriving agricultural area – so it’s no surprise that the food served here is wonderfully fresh and wholesome

(Left) Hearty Fare Hartford House hotel offers fine wining and dining in picturesque surroundings Of The Land Savour organic local fare at KwaZulu-Natal’s best restaurants

COVER STORY | KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa | COVER STORY

Here, in the homeland of the Zulus, very little is done in half-measures. And it takes just one weekend for you to realise that — and to realise that one weekend simply isn’t enough time here

Peak Of Relaxation The Drakensberg National Park is among the world’s greatest escapes

COVER STORY | KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

HOTEL HEAVEN From grand old farmhouses to simple chalets and campsites with incredible views, travellers are spoilt for choice in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands. Here are a few ideas…

Take The Tube Get in touch with your inner tube on the Little Mooi River

Rose-tinted Roving Sunrise at Fordoun Hotel and Spa

In the winters, when the temperature drops and frost creeps in before dawn, the verdant hills and fields turn into shades of gold and brown

KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa | COVER STORY

TRAVELLING WITH KIDS The self-catering chalets at Midmar Dam (kznwildlife.com; from R600 for a two-person chalet per night) offer plenty of open, grassy spaces which are perfect for families. There’s the dam, of course, a boat shop that hires out windsurfers, canoes and yachts, and a network of relatively flat roads that are safe and fun for young cyclists and joggers. LOOKING FOR ADVENTURE With the Little Mooi River meandering through the property, Glengarry holiday farm (glengarry. co.za; self-catering chalets from R380 an adult and R250 a child per night; campsites from R120 an adult and R100 a child per night) is a real treat for families. It costs R20 to hire a tube for half a day, which equates to many hours of utterly simple thrills on the river. The area’s mountain bike and hiking trails offer spectacular views of the Drakensberg mountain range; there is also a challenging nine-hole golf course, lawn bowls, a fly-fishing dam (all R70 a day) and a few farm animals that don’t mind children getting up close. (Above) Home On The Range Count Drakensbergs in your sleep as you unwind in the National Park Al Fresco Feast Cuisine is the big draw at Hartford House

NEED TO GET AWAY FROM IT ALL Buried deep in a hillside of indigenous trees and without any cellphone reception, Rockwood Forest Lodge (rockwood.co.za; from R450 a person a night; sleeps six) is a comfortable, secluded selfcatering hideaway with a huge fireplace, a lounge full of board games, and benches tucked under the trees. The lodge, one of four on Karkloof Nature Reserve, is accessible by 4x4 only (transfers can be arranged). WANT TO INDULGE When a spa offers a body-wrap treatment that uses clay harvested by virgins at midnight, you know you’re in for something special. Fordoun Hotel and Spa (fordoun.com; from R930 a person per night sharing, B&B) is well known for its extensive offering of pamper sessions and beautifully indulgent accommodation, which comes standard with free use of the sauna, steam room, jacuzzi and flotation tank. Fordoun also offers spa packages for day visitors. APPRECIATE FINE FOOD AND WINE The five-course dinners at Hartford House (hartford.co.za; from R625 a person a night sharing, B&B), served on a grand veranda or stately dining room, are an elaborate affair. While the accommodation oozes luxury and style, it’s often the cuisine that’s the big draw-card: Hartford has regularly been included in lists of top-10 restaurants in South Africa. 53

COVER STORY | KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

This genteel area of South Africa’s KwaZulu-Natal province – just a five-hour drive from Johannesburg – is still so very African, so very bold and dramatic

KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa | COVER STORY

COVER STORY | KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

Warrior Spirit A demonstration of Zulu traditions (Below) Child’s Play Getting around is easy, and there’s loads for kids to do and see

FACT FILE KWAZULU-NATAL Book a Midlands Meander for tradition, luxury, nature and culture GETTING THERE

Book flights to Johannesburg on Arik Air (Arikair.com). The KwaZulu-Natal Midlands is an easy, scenic four-hour drive from OR Tambo airport in Johannesburg. Simply get onto the N2 highway and follow the signs to Durban. You could also fly from Johannesburg to Durban or Pietermaritzburg. The Midlands is a two-hour drive from Durban and a 25-minute drive from Pietermaritzburg. Again, get onto the N2 highway and follow the signs to Johannesburg.

GETTING AROUND By far the easiest and most convenient way to get around is to self-drive. All of the international car-rental companies have offices in Johannesburg, Durban and Pietermaritzburg airports.

ESSENTIALS VISAS The visa regulations are currently under review, so please check the immigration section on the Department of Home Affairs website (www.dha.gov.za) before you travel. Please note that if you are travelling to South Africa with a child, you will be required to produce their unabridged birth certificate as well as passport.

WHEN TO GO The KwaZulu-Natal Midlands has good weather year-round, and the best time to travel there depends on what experience you want: summers are hot and a fantastic time to be outdoors, swimming in rivers and pools, while winter offers the chance to snuggle up next to a log fire in the evenings. During the summer months (October to February) the weather is hot (the temperature can reach the mid-30s), with occasional afternoon showers and thunderstorms. Winters (late May to August) are cold in the evenings (temperatures do sometimes drop below freezing), but during the day, warm up to just below 20 degrees.

CURRENCY The currency in South Africa is the rand (ZAR). At time of going to press NGN 16 = ZAR 1

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FEATURE | Bright Simons

Bright Idea Bright Simons is leading the battle to eliminate counterfeit medicines in Nigeria and beyond. President of the anti-counterfeiting company, mPedigree Network, he combines the innovative thinking of an entrepreneur with the passion of an activist. WORDS LEE WILLIAMS

he year is 2008, the country is Nigeria; 84 babies have died because the syrup used to treat their teething pains is found to contain diethylene glycol, an industrial solvent used in brake fluid and antifreeze. It is a national tragedy but in nearby Ghana a new product is being rolled out which might stop such a disaster ever happening again. It is a system first developed to verify the authenticity of organic foods. The method is simple – each product contains a code that the buyer simply texts to a free number, receiving a message back telling them whether it’s authentic or not. The disaster in Nigeria will provide the catalyst for it to become the global leader in the use of mobile and web-based technologies in the fight against fake drugs. 58

The company behind the technology is called mPedigree. Its president is Bright Simons, an entrepreneur and activist who has been tackling problems head-on since his childhood. “I got heavily bullied in the second year of secondary school,” he said. “Everybody gets bullied, it’s just I didn’t take it like everybody else did.” What he did was to become president of the student council and begin a series of reforms to reduce abuse, often leading him into direct conflict with the school’s administrators. A career of activism and innovation was born. After school Simons went to Europe, where he won a scholarship to study astrophysics at Durham University. A purely academic path didn’t totally satisfy him but a switch to migration studies soon reengaged him with activism. “I felt that I couldn’t really separate

Bright Simons | FEATURE

FEATURE | Bright Simons

“Sometimes you have to wear a problem down until the problem gives up.” my very strong opinions about social justice from my professional and academic goals,” he said, “so I became a small part of the Migrants’ Rights movement in Europe.” But Simons soon realised that activism alone wasn’t enough to provide solutions to some of the more complex problems and increasingly turned towards technological innovation for solutions. His first such idea came when he developed a skin problem while studying in the UK. “I was trying to see if changes in my diet would help so I shifted to organic food. Suddenly it hit me that in Africa we don’t have these problems and in Africa they grow their food organically by default. So why should we not have more African food coming in and farmers being paid more?” He soon realised the big problem was one of certification — how do you know as a consumer that the box of oranges in your hand really comes from an organic grower? He led a research project finding ways to provide authentication techniques and soon the idea of product codes that could be verified by SMS was born. The idea got off to a good start, even winning a few awards, but it soon ran into stakeholder problems with farmers wanting to be paid for using the service.

On Life Support

Soon the product was “nearly dead, on life support” as Simons puts it. It was just before the health crisis in Nigeria occurred. With Simons’ experience of the growing trade in counterfeit goods between Africa and China, the technology soon found a renaissance as a weapon against counterfeit drugs and one which could be expanded to cover all fake goods. “I realised it was the same problem but in a different guise. Whether you want to know if your product is 60

Authentic Purpose Bright Simons, founder of mPedigree Network

Code for Change mPedigree addresses the problem of counterfeit medicine

Bright Simons | FEATURE

mPedigree’s GoldKeys technology helps protect consumers, businesses and regulators from counterfeit products.

CONSUMERS A customer buying a package of medicine or other protected product scratches off the panel to reveal a 12-digit code which they text to the free, four-digit number printed on the pack. A message is returned within a few seconds confirming the authenticity or otherwise of the drug together with product details and expiry date.

BUSINESSES As well as protecting their products from counterfeiting, the system also allows businesses to monitor customer feedback, supply chain data and market intelligence, making it a powerful marketing and data capture tool.

REGULATORS Regulators and governments can use the system to register all legitimate products and companies operating within their mandate. They can then initiate full-scale surveillance over the supply chains of high-risk products and can verify all products before allowing them into the country.

People Power More than 15 million people in Nigeria alone have benefitted from the technology

Within nine months the number of antimalarial drugs protected by mPedigree shot up to over 100 million.

organic or if the shirt you’re wearing didn’t come from a sweat shop, it’s about the same thing – how do I trust, as a consumer, what I have in my hand and I paid for with my money?” The project was piloted in Ghana where it gained some media attention and not long after it was adopted by the Nigerian government. Within nine months the number of anti-malarial drugs protected by mPedigree shot up to over 100 million.

Mass Medicine

Today more than 15 million people in Nigeria alone have benefited from the technology and mPedigree has spread to a dozen other industries including textiles, agro-chemicals, cosmetics and electrical goods, working with over two dozen telecom operators in a dozen countries in Africa and South Asia. This gives the technology a theoretical reach of over 600 million people and in 2014 mPedigree passed the 500 million product mark. Part of its appeal is that it can be used as a marketing and data capture tool as much as an anti-counterfeiting measure. “If you send a text message asking to validate a package of medicine, it gives you some information. You know what kind of medicines they’ve bought; you know their location; you also know the condition, for example malaria. That kind of information is very powerful. It completely transforms the nature of service delivery.” But there is still a long way to go. The World Health Organisation estimates that fake drugs still account for 10-30% of all medicines available in the developing world and although the product has good coverage in certain areas of the drug market, such as antimalarial, antibiotics and reproductive-related medicine, it doesn’t yet cover the whole range of pharmaceuticals. There have been many challenges – like trying to persuade telecom companies to provide the free SMS service – but Simons thinks the biggest challenges have also provided the company’s greatest strengths, namely its small scale, its limited resources and its base in an African country with limited infrastructure. “In Africa you have to think globally from the outset,” said Simons. “A typical enterprise grown in a typical way is built from the bottom up by hiring marketing experts, top-notch PR agents, risk managers etc. Because we didn’t have that option, we had to use a completely different approach which is to work through partnerships and collaborations.” It is an approach which has seen mPedigree work with the likes of Hewlett Packard, Orange and Vodafone and Simons become a member of the World Economic Forum’s Global Agenda Council, an executive at think tank the IMANI Center for Policy and Education, a consultant to the World Bank, a member of the Brain’s Trust and a TED fellow, to name just a few of his roles. “These relationships are what we discovered are a few of the levers that can enable small enterprises to achieve global impact,” explained Simons. “It’s a big solution to a big problem.” Big problems, it seems, have never been something Simons has shied away from, an attitude he has kept from his activist roots. He cites Archbishop Desmond Tutu and the Dalai Lama as two of his biggest inspirations because they faced down huge, almost intractable problems, with patience and perseverance. “That kind of attitude is typical in the world of activism where people are confronted with enormous odds,” said Simons. “Sometimes you have to wear a problem down until the problem gives up.” This interview was printed in collaboration with Salt magazine. A platform for positive change agents, Salt aims to make the world a better place by promoting compassionate business practices. Wearesalt.org

TECH FOR GOOD

FEATURE | Food And Travel

ENGLISH DISH

For many decades, British cuisine has been the butt of jokes. Now the tables have turned. Mark Bittman searches for some of the best English fare on London menus.

WORDS MARK BITTMAN

Steaks are High Find London's best grassfed British steak at Hawksmoor

Food And Travel | FEATURE

ock English food all you like. But the local food thing is almost as inbred in England as it is in France; it just sometimes hides behind poverty, war or a fatal attraction to (as they call it) America. Today there are literally dozens of restaurants featuring not only fish from the Channel, the North Atlantic and the North Sea, but local beef and pork. Meanwhile, there is lamb from Wales and Scotland, and produce from everywhere. My focus here wasn’t ingredients; however, it was a style of cooking that’s called, for want of a better term, “English”. No modern European cooking can escape French or Italian influences, of course. I just wanted something approaching pure: When I saw eel or Jersey royals (a new potato with a cult following) on a menu, I figured I was headed in the right direction. Here are my favourites, in order.

Canteen

Admittedly, this is a chain. The atmosphere is similar to what you find in a New York coffee shop, and though character isn’t its strong suit, I find myself recommending Canteen to friends as well as stopping there myself whenever I’m in London. Maybe if you’re British the food seems ordinary, but to me it verges on the exotic: savoury pies, meat or meatless; a salad of smoked haddock and poached egg; pig cheek with carrot and Swede (rutabaga); Welsh rarebit with egg. In a city in which everything seems wildly pricey to outsiders, Canteen is reasonable. Only one of the main courses approaches 20 pounds, most are far less, and – get this – many if not most dishes are available in half portions for half-price. The last time I was there, two of us shared five dishes and a little wine and escaped for less than 50 pounds. Finally – and this is not a small thing – the service is consistently efficient and friendly. Staff members take their time, explain different options, mostly get it right, and don’t ignore you once the food is delivered. I hope I’m not overselling here; the food is modest though often delicious, and the setting does little to either enhance or detract from

Citrus Fresh Celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal is resident at Dinner, The Mandarin Oriental Hotel

Ode to Old Blighty Canteen serves reasonably priced, British cuisine

FEATURE | Food And Travel

Behind the Peel Chicken liver mousse with orange jelly, disquised as an orange, at Dinner

the enjoyment. But to return to a place repeatedly and not be annoyed but delighted, not feel ripped off but suitably served – that makes it a place worth recommending. Canteen, Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Road (and three other locations); 44 (0) 845 686-1122; canteen.co.uk. An average meal for two, without drinks or tip, is about 40 pounds.

Hawksmoor Seven Dials

broccoli, chips fried in beef fat (among the best I’ve ever had) and Jersey royals were all worth ordering. A whole grilled fish was also near perfect, though the chicken was dry. Fortunately for me I was here twice, so on the second visit I managed a few tastes of dessert: Champagne jelly with citrus is a gorgeous palate-cleanser; sticky toffee pudding, rich and dense; and peanut butter shortbread with salty ice cream, kind of ideal. The Hawksmoor Seven Dials is in a vaulted cellar, bricked and lovely but unchanging throughout the day, and with a pleasant but decidedly saloonlike atmosphere. The tables are wood and unadorned, but the seats are comfortable.

They were eating steak in London before the New York steakhouse was invented. My focus here wasn’t Hawksmoor, like Canteen, has multiple locations (the one I tried is called Seven ingredients; however, it was a Dials after its Covent Garden location) style of cooking that’s called, for and with a little menu-fiddling can also be reasonably priced. want of a better term, “English” Comparisons pretty much end there. Hawksmoor Seven Dials, 11 Langley St. Here there are elaborate wine and (and two other locations); 44 (0) 207 cocktail lists along with huge steaks posted specially on a chalkboard; 420-9390; thehawksmoor.com/locations/seven-dials. An average look to the printed menu for those of a more normal size. Either way, meal for two, without drinks or tip, can run 100 pounds, but, with they should be shared. In fact, that’s my recommendation for judicious ordering, can be less. everything, because the side dishes and desserts are both terrific. (You get a sense that there’s a real chef in the kitchen, not just some Dinner guy who knows how to grill steaks.) The beef, it should be said, is Waiting for me to get to the fancy-pants place? Here you go: It’s British. It is grass fed, delicious and impeccably cooked over called Dinner. (You may never tire of saying, “We’re having dinner at hardwood charcoal. Dinner,” and I guess that’s the idea.) In the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in I was happy about a samphire and crab salad, and even more so Knightsbridge, it couldn’t be in a more upscale location. Nor could it with a salad of eel, ham hock, watercress, mint, peas, croutons and have a better pedigree: The chef is Heston Blumenthal, a molecular poached egg; the plain green salad is also very well done. Sprouting gastronomist best known for the Fat Duck (in the town of Bray, to the 64

Food And Travel | FEATURE

Classy Caff Lamb kidneys on toast at Albion Cafe

FEATURE | Food And Travel

creative and interesting, as was the brown bread ice cream. We opted to pass on the showy tableside instant nitrous-oxide-produced ice cream, though the flavours sounded delicious. west), which, since El Bulli in Spain has closed, is the most famous avant-garde restaurant in the world. Dinner is supposedly a group of dishes all dug up by Blumenthal and his staff from medieval and later sources, historical recipes. Supposedly. This makes a great story and gives the entire meal a narrative theme that most lack, though most of the food appears to be neither more nor less than that of other contemporary cuisine, with perhaps a few more ancient seasonings than usual and references to a great many others. Remember: No one alive knows what food used to taste like. (A piece of paper on our table – I believe it was wrapped around a napkin – went on about the wonders of ambergris, a whale-based seasoning; but no ambergris is used here. The point, exactly?) Nevertheless, the food is almost uniformly delicious. From a ball of chicken liver mousse with orange jelly disguised to look like a mandarin orange (it’s called “meat fruit,” an apt description, and the accompanying toast was perfect), to the gorgeous rose tea service, the food is careful, precise and irresistible. It had better be, because there are no bargains here, and Blumenthal has a reputation to uphold. It had also better be because it is located in a real hotel hallway of a dining room, replete with wall sconces that look like Jell-O molds and ceiling lights that are reminiscent of ye olde carriage wheels. This is at least somewhat ameliorated by the professional service and luxurious amount of room allotted to most tables. (Though, really, there are few great places to sit.) In any case, the food will get you past this: the oat porridge, the salamagundi, the pigeon and artichoke, and other dishes were fabulous, 66

Dinner, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge; 44 (0) 207 201 3833; dinnerbyheston.com. An average meal for two, without drinks or tip, runs about 120 pounds.

Albion Café

Sir Terence Conran is part of the staking out of “new” territory in the city’s northeast – in Shoreditch, an area of London that has been increasingly gentrified since the '90s. Albion is a market and a restaurant (a “caff”) that is bright, cheery and appealing. A new, huge open kitchen is churning out loaves of brioche and white and brown bread as if they were for show, which presumably they aren’t. It’s also churning out good, inexpensive food in a pleasant atmosphere. For the second time in 24 hours (the other was at Hawksmoor Seven Dials), I had chips the likes of which you just don’t get anywhere else. I also ate lamb kidneys on toast that were perfectly browned, breathtakingly tender and flavourful, in a lightly spiced glaze, finished with parsley. A huge portion (cheap, too) and worth the trip if you wonder why anyone bothers to eat the things. The aforementioned chips came with what I thought was over-battered fried fish, but that’s a style question; the execution was fine, and some will think it perfect. I do not believe you need to go this far from the centre of town to eat well, but if you’re here anyway, you could do a lot worse. (If you want to venture equally far west, you might try Le Cafe Anglais or Hereford Road, both near the Queensway Tube station.) Albion, 2-4 Boundary St., Shoreditch; 44 (0)207 729 1051; albioncaff. co.uk. An average meal for two, without drinks or tip, runs about 40 pounds.

Food And Travel | FEATURE

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Quo Vadis

Smack in the middle of Soho, Quo Vadis has survived largely on its location, but it’s gone through a few iterations, and the current one is the best, at least in my memory. It’s a cozy compilation of several small, attached buildings (Marx and Engels lived upstairs in one of them), with the bistro-like restaurant on the ground floor and some private rooms and a club upstairs. The menu changes pretty much daily, but it’s always appealing. A prix fixe of 17.50 pounds for two courses or 20 pounds for three can make for a very good deal. One permanent item appears to be the crab soup – a broth really – as intense as you could ever imagine and really quite a knockout. Flavour satiety comes pretty quickly with this, so I’d recommend sharing (even among four people); maybe you can get the server to bring you teacups, something that only occurred to me afterward. The servers we had on one visit could hardly be bothered to bring us food, so it wouldn’t have worked anyway. The restaurant has something of a reputation for having a “difficult” time with service, though we fared better on other visits. In any case, the food, which I would describe as contemporary English bordering on, say, continental, is generally quite successful. Broiled mackerel, simply served, was perfect; radicchio with pork, the same, with the radicchio stealing the show from the anything-but-shabby pork; a salad of greens had a real fresh-from-the garden feel. Quo Vadis has long been an easy, decent choice for pre-theatre, but now it seems to be actually worth going to for the food. Quo Vadis, 26-29 Dean St., Soho; (44-207) 437-9585. An average meal for two, without drinks or tip, runs about 50 pounds. Distributed by NYT Syndicate

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AFRIFF 2015

Africa’s Romantic Novels | FEATURE

TRUE ROM ANCE A new batch of romance novels were released through Nigeria’s wellknown Cassava Republic publishing house last year. This marked a distinct spike in a steady, but growing trend towards love stories by writers throughout the African diaspora, and redefining notions of romance. WORDS NANA OCRAN

FEATURE | Africa’s Romantic Novels

hoenix Advertising Agency rising star Tishe is looking forward to her first date with the sharply dressed Adnan. But she is horrified when she finds out that he is a tailor from Mushin. She vows that there will be no second date — ever… So goes the taster blurb from the back cover of A Tailor-Made Romance, a novella by Oyindamola Affinnih, one of six authors whose books have kick-started Ankara Press – a dynamic new name in African romance publishing. Ankara, which was launched at the end of 2014, is the brainchild of Bibi Bakare-Yusuf, co-founder of the London and Abuja-based Cassava Republic publishing house. With its relationship-themed stories, Ankara is now holding the literary baton for promoting genre fiction in Nigeria – and now hosts a new generation of romance writers. There are also others who have successfully placed African ardour on the map. Launched in 2011, Romance Writers of West Africa (RWoWA) has been a support blogsite for writers of West African origin, as well as those who write romance fiction set in West Africa. From this collective stable come names that include UK-based Nkem Ivara and US-based Lara Daniels and Myne Whitman. Another founding member is Kiru Taye, whose Men Of Valor trilogy takes us back to a 15th-century Africa of male kingdoms, rebellious wives, free-spirited women and ignited passions. Photographer Glenna Gordon’s exhibition at LagosPhoto 2014, entitled Sin Is a Puppy That Follows You Home: Romance Novelists In Northern Nigeria (after the novel by Balaraba Ramat Yakubu), presented an intimate view of a small but significant group of Northern Nigerian women who write romance novels, and whose outspoken and at times subversive stories speak to ideas of escape and fantasy amid the reality of conflict within and outside their home. The southern edge of the continent also gets a publishing look in. Nollybooks are a series of easy to digest chick-lit publications that are predominantly written by young African writers. Each story is set in South Africa, and usually ends with a positive outcome. What sets these books apart from many others within the genre is that they’re printed up like bookazines, with extra features including a dictionary section, as well as games and discussion points for potential book clubs. Of the authors at Ankara Press, Bakare-Yusuf explains: ‘“We selected them by manuscript submissions. They were unknown to us prior to this.” The selection took the form of a three-year reviewing and editing process, with the six chosen manuscripts representing the best of the bunch. So far, the broad range of plots include a secret affair in Ola Awonubi’s Love’s Persuasion; new love for a single mother in Sifa Asani Gowon’s A Taste Of Love; fashion-fuelled passion in Amara Nicole Okolo’s Black Sparkle Romance; a Cape Town adventure in The Elevator Kiss by Amina Thula, and the intriguing journey of a jilted bride in Chioma Iwunzi Ibiam’s Finding Love Again.

Reappropriating Romance

Each of the 160-to-220-page novellas have strong characters that will likely resonate with readers for different reasons. Of the previously mentioned Tishe from A Tailor-Made Romance, Bakare-Yusuf draws

A romance novelist at work from Glenna Gordon’s 2014 exhibition, ‘Sin Is a Puppy That Follows You Home: Romance Novelists In Northern Nigeria’

“In Nigeria; people don’t often feel free to follow their heart and desires, for fear of what society might think, or because of their own class prejudice.” Bibi Bakare-Yusuf

a parallel between the character’s apparent quandary over the status of the tailor who pulls at her heartstrings, and the fate of many potential relationships across Nigeria. “While her character doesn’t resonate personally,” she avers, “I’m fond of her, as her struggle to challenge her own class prejudices strikes a chord with one of the things I find problematic in Nigeria; people don’t often feel free to follow their heart and desires, for fear of what society might think, or because of their own class prejudice.” It’s a fair point, and it’s also no accident that, with a PhD in Women and Gender Studies, and having recently co-founded Tapestry Consulting, a boutique gender and training research consultancy, Bakare-Yusuf’s publishing vision is long-term as far as challenging perceptions of African female sexuality.

Africa’s Romantic Novels | FEATURE

Author Amara Nicole Okolo

The entertaining, easily accessible storylines and playful book covers – courtesy of young Nigerian designer Onyinye Iwu – don’t detract from what seems like an underlying goal to progress social change. This is something that Bakare-Yusuf feels can come about through an engagement with culture such as literature, music, performance and poetry. To her, the feminist movement in the West is one that she feels has taken a creative and multifaceted approach to dismantling patriarchy – essentially through mainstreaming these issues in women’s magazines, films and cultural works. “The empowerment of women can come in quite subtle ways, through stories that encourage women to think actively about their bodies, their health, aspirations and relationships,” she says. “Influencing womens’ and mens’ expectations of relationships through the romance genre felt like a natural choice, particularly if you are committed to healthy and wholesome gender and sexual relations in Africa.” Thinking historically, Bakare-Yusuf also reflects on the colonial impact on perceptions of African sexuality. A legacy of prudish, Victorian sensibility towards discussions of African sexuality in general has been one of the main hereditary outcomes. Her observations of the ways that 21st-century African pop culture is attempting to shift this is interesting. “The Nigerian artist and filmmaker Zina Saro-Wiwa had a fascinating video-installation series, Eaten By The Heart, that featured Africans talking about kissing.” What Yusuf-Bakare noted about this particular art piece was the fact that in the film, some Africans revealed that they only discovered kissing when they moved to the West. “We find it hard to believe that in pre-colonial times, there was a far more open and diverse set of sexual practices and norms found across the continent,” she says.

Starcrossed Brothers Author Chioma Iwunze-Ibiam

Shrinking violets or ‘submissive and pliant heroines’ aren’t what you’ll typically find in the pages of an Ankara publication. The authors have taken a far more realistic look at desire and passion, specifically from an African viewpoint. Bukare-Yusuf muses that in so many classic romance novels, “the heroine desires sex, but doesn’t go looking for 71

FEATURE | Africa’s Romantic Novels

Co-founder of Cassava Republic, Bibi Bakare-Yusuf

LOVE AT FIRST SITE

Websites for African romance novels

ANKARA PRESS “Our stories feature self-assured and independent women who work, play and, of course, fall madly in love in vibrant African cities from Lagos to Cape Town. Ankara men are confident, emotionally expressive… and not afraid of aassertive women,” says Ankara. ankarapress.com

KIRU TAYE Kiru is the founding member of Romance Writers of West Africa and an associate member of Romance Writers of South Africa. She writes historical, contemporary and paranormal romance. kirutaye.com

MYNE WHITMAN Myne’s first novel, A Heart to Mend is a story of self discovery and unconditional love in Lagos. Her second Novel, A Love Rekindled, is about first love, ethnic conflict and broken promises. She’s also the founder of Naija Stories, a critique website for aspiring Nigerian writers. mynewhitmanwrites.com

Author Sifa Asani Gowon

“They [men] absolutely loved reading them. I think they’re intrigued to read about relationships that are mutually supportive, non-transactional, positive and affirming for both partners“

it,” whereas the Ankara stories are out to present heroines who seek connection and intimacy, but are ambitious and have independent lives apart from their partners. “They represent a world in which women own and name their desire and pursue it without fear.” But what about the male readers of the Ankara novels? There’s a definite audience out there. The books were ‘tested’ on various male readers before the launch of the imprint, and the reactions were good. “They absolutely loved reading them,” Bakare-Yusuf reveals. “I think they’re intrigued to read about relationships that are mutually supportive, non-transactional, positive and affirming for both partners.” However, despite the proof that men enjoy reading the books, they don’t seem to be writing them – yet. This is a topic that goes far beyond Ankara and the African romance market. What with the global perception of romance novels being a case study in female desires from female perspectives, there may be quite a few male readers hiding behind female names. For decades, the gothic romance novels of Thomas Elmer Huff were written under the pen

Africa’s Romantic Novels | FEATURE

names of Edwina Marlow, Beatrice Parker, Katherine St. Clair, and Jennifer Wilde, while WWII veteran, grandfather and father-of-four, Bill Spence, wrote over 22 romance novels under the name of Jessica Blair. Still, whichever gender these writers were published under, they were and are distinctly non-African. An addition of male authors would be welcome at Bukare-Yusuf’s publishing house. “If there are any men reading this interview who think they can write and can follow our guidelines, then a good starting point is to start reading some of the Ankara books,” she says. Whether penned by men or women, the layers of issues and nuanced plots around coupledom in the Ankara publications seem to be part of a much broader story of the realisms of African feminism. Ankara Press as a potential platform to entertain while challenging gender stereotypes, and echoes various African female voices, all of which have a stake in feminism and its perception across the continent. These include Lola Shoneyin (a Cassava Republic author) whose 2010 book The Secret Lives Of Baba Segi’s Wives tackles gender, class and female status through the prism of a polygamous marriage in Nigeria. Also notable is Ghanaian writer and activist Nana Darkoa Sekyiamah, whose blog, Adventures From The Bedrooms of African Women (adventuresfrom.com) is devoted to stories about everything that’s true, fictional, playful or political about love and desire of women within the continent. Simi Dosekun also comes to mind. A Nigerian feminist, whose current PhD research explores new styles of feminine self presentation – mainly among young women in Lagos – has an aesthetic focus that hones in on the look of African females, and a type of hyper femininity of extended hair, nails and jewellery that some women choose to embody. There may well be some connecting thread between this study of ‘elite’ gender role-playing, the concerns of other feminist voices and some of the plots that emerge from Ankara and other publications.

Ankara’s Destiny

Author Ola Awonubi

“The majority of the orders we’ve received have been from within Nigeria,” says Bakare-Yusuf. “In due course, we’ll expand to other markets in Africa, although we’re already receiving steady orders from customers in Europe and the USA.” All good signs, and with a very appropriate Valentine’s Day special that took place in February, readers were treated to a language-based promotion whereby six writers (three men and three women) wrote short romance texts in English, with stories being translated into languages including Igbo, Hausa, Yoruba, Kikuyu, Kiswahili and French. This was a nice touch for widening the audience, not to mention providing an antidote to the ‘election fatigue’ that swept through the country at the time. As for the future, there are plans to develop an Ankara ‘After Dark’ erotica series, which will definitely help to highlight the broad scope of imagination that exists within Africa’s literary scene.

PHOTOGRAPHY | Lagos Photo Festival

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Photography has illuminating every asp trains its attention upo

Lagos Photo Festival | PHOTOGRAPHY

What do you think of as African design? Whatever your preconceptions, this year’s Lagos Photo Festival promises to challenge them. The concept for the sixth edition of this month-long celebration of lens-based art is ‘Designing Futures’, a broad theme that promises to venture intrepidly beyond the usual cliches. EMMA FORREST WORDS

or me, design is much more than thinking of a cool chair or a cool fabric pattern,” explains the festival’s curator, Cristina de Middel. “I wanted to point out how history has designed the shape of Africa, and how individuals can design their future. So the aesthetic approach that might be the most obvious is not the most important in the selection I’ve made.” From 17 October 2015, visitors to Lagos can feast their eyes on innovative photography throughout the city. There’s a varied line-up of events, including screenings, talks and workshops hosted by local and foreign photographers and exhibitions in intimate venues and huge outdoor installations. The work of both professional and amateur photographers will be celebrated with a competition called ‘I Love Nigeria’. This is Nigeria’s only international photo festival, and it’s designed to foster an understanding of contemporary photography and nurture crosscultural collaborations between professionals from Nigeria, Africa and beyond. It’s a mission that continues throughout the year with PhotoLagos photography events, workshops and screenings. “The principal thing is to provide a platform for contemporary African photography on the continent, and for visual story tellers from every part of the world to meet and share ideas and experiences that relate to contemporary Africa and its diaspora,” explains the festival’s director, Azu Nwagbogu. “Africa has to be a destination, and no place is better than Lagos. I find it preposterous when all sorts of initiatives meant to address issues that relate to Africa happen everywhere but on the continent! Of course, it’s that much more difficult due to problems with infrastructure, but it will never change if we neglect it altogether.” Another key goal of the festival is to change preconceptions about Africa, as Nwagbogu puts it, challenging ‘lazy’ notions of contemporary life in Africa. “Africa is misrepresented in a way that encourages inertia,” he says. “We need to take ownership of our image and how we are seen and want to be seen. This is the power of LagosPhoto. We embrace multiple narratives.”

Lens on Las Gidi Lagos will host the sixth edition of LagosPhoto in October 2015

the power of pect of life that it on

Lenses Without Filters

With this year’s theme, the festival aims to shatter clichés about African design. Nwagbogu feels that traditionally design in Africa has been observed and described through two lenses: recycling and prints. “Every object is erroneously filtered through these lenses,” he says. “It's a shame, but we aim to tell other stories about design in Africa.” It’s a theme that taps into Nwagbogu’s passion for taking an alternative approach to photography.

“My interests are in pushing the boundaries of contemporary photography and to explore new ways of observing the various intersections between photography and contemporary life and design is a crucial aspect of contemporary living. We need innovation, to create things, objects that are useful and useless but the important thing is to explore and stimulate the imagination. “Photography has the power of illuminating every aspect of life that it trains its attention upon. For example, the way photography influences film, music, fashion, industry… all of these are fascinating to me as the artistic director of the festival.” The idea of exploring photography through design was equally fascinating to the festival’s curator Cristina de Middel – who had performed the role for the 2013 edition of the festival – and who Nwagbogu had a “telepathic understanding” over the theme late last year. “I love her mind, her attitude and charisma and she’s articulate. I immediately invited her to curate the next edition.” De Middel wants to inspire new ideas of what design means in Africa. She feels that people inside and outside of Africa still bind to a strong cliché of African design as inventive and daring, but also tribal. “I hope the audience gets surprised by what ‘design’ really means, beyond the industrial aesthetic, and that making plans for the future is also a way of designing,” she says. “So many might think there is no relation to the subject, when there is a very strong conceptual one.” Finalists’ photos have been selected for their new approaches and new ways of defining Africa, but also, she says, for their “projected realities in the future and new readings of the past”. Competition was fierce this year, because of a new enthusiasm for Africa-focused photography:. “It’s been difficult to choose, because there is a very vibrant scene now regarding Africa not only from Nigerians and other Africans, but also from western artists who are engaging with the continent from a very different angle and without the post-colonial stigma.” De Middel is excited about the huge number of new names and new projects that will be shown for the first time at LagosPhoto. “It is very exciting, because I believe the African audience is a priority when it comes to showing these projects.” Her highlights include the “refreshing” video projections of artists including Max Pinckers and Patrick Slemani, the provocative work of Vicente Paredes aka PonyCongo and the series of other shows that are the result of collaborations with companies, including one with fabric producer VLICSO that is a sort of retrospective on Nigerian history based on their archive fabric designs. “It’s going to be a very diverse festival this year!” she promises. 75

PHOTOGRAPHY | Lagos Photo Festival

Hlaks, from the seriesÂ Pantsula by Chris Saunders Isipantsula is South Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s predominant township subculture. From its roots in the Sophiatown jazz culture of the 1950s, it developed in the 1970s to become the main expression of youth culture in the townships. It is both a mindset and lifestyle, expressed through language, music, dress code, and a narrative dance form: Pantsula

Lagos Photo Festival | PHOTOGRAPHY

Female Real Action Pantsula Members, from the series Pantsula by Chris Saunders The story is about a group of dancers from Orange Farm South Africa called ‘Real Actions’. They are a Pantsula dance crew from one of the most infamous townships in Johannesburg: Orange Farm.

PHOTOGRAPHY | Lagos Photo Festival

From the series, Waiting for Spring by Daniel Donnelly. This series looks at the expectation of waiting for a change to come that will result in the turning of a corner. It does not try to explain or offer answers to why change should come to Morocco, or what the changes may look like. Waiting for Spring does not conclude with the vigorous transformation that has occurred in other countries in North Africa. Instead, it recognises that the outsider will never have a clear view of what is coming, but only an imperceptible mirage.

Émilie Régnier, Kati, Mali “I am really driven by the idea of showing a West African society that is growing,” says Régnier. That means ignoring the easy and the rote: pictures of elites quaffing champagne, or images cataloguing the atrocities of war. Witnessing with a camera takes many forms. For Régnier, photographic truth is located in the bodily presence of young West Africans proudly negotiating their future, a diverse future of many possibilities

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WINGS CELEBRATES 25 ISSUES SPECIAL ANNIVERSARY EDITION

ON PLANES DECEMBER 2015–FEBRUARY 2016

PHOTOGRAPHY | Lagos Photo Festival

William Ukoh, from the series Whiteshadows “‘Whiteshadows I’ is an ongoing series from a discussion about cultural appropriation – and the much hidden discussion about taking ownership – told from [his] perspective. The collection of photos in the presentation is as vague as the term ‘cultural appropriation’, and as clear as the perceived term ‘cultural appropriation’”

Lagos Photo Festival | PHOTOGRAPHY

Vicente Parades, from the series PonyCongo PonyCongo explores inequality, depicting the opposing realities of two worlds. The first is the Pony Championship in Spain. The second concerns child labourers from Matadi, DRC, who have no access to education and hail from one of the poorest countries in the world. “These two small universes are presented face-to-face,” says Parades, “and remind us that no matter how high the walls rise up, they can not obscure what is on the other side”.

LagosPhoto Festival takes place 17 October–21 November 2015. For more information on the show and its participants, see lagosphotofestival.com.

FEATURE | Everyday Africa

APERTURE ONAFRICA

ÂŠ Peter DiCampo

A woman uses her phone to photograph the canoe ride to Bojo Beach Resort in Kokrobite, Ghana, May 2014

Everyday Africa | FEATURE

In 2012, photojournalist Peter DiCampo and writer Austin Merrill started the Everyday Africa project on Instagram. The goal: to showcase daily life and counteract stereotypical media images. Everyday Africa has since become a continentwide collective with over 150,000 followers. Peter DiCampo discusses the projectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s meteoric rise and upcoming book

ÂŠ Peter DiCampo

A woman fixes her head wrap in the mirror of a bus in Kejetia Station in Kumasi, Ghana on 7 June, 2014

FEATURE | Everyday Africa

Napping at Lakka Beach in Freetown, Sierra Leone

t is, of course, very fitting that an initiative like Everyday Africa — dedicated to showing images of the familiar, the normal, even the mundane, instead of the media’s usual extremes — began with two journalists becoming increasingly frustrated as we covered a conflict aftermath. It was March 2012, and I was traveling in Ivory Coast with writer Austin Merrill. The two of us — having both lived in the region for years at a time — were feeling confined by the narrative of our reporting, looking only for refugees, victims, and signs of continued violence. We wanted to snap and share the more familiar, daily-life moments unfolding all around us, so we pulled out our phones and began doing so in a

more casual, unrestricted way — and it was a relief. Soon after, we started the Instagram account and invited other photographers based around the continent to join us. Now, we have nearly 30 renowned photographers contributing to the project (the majority of those currently active are African, from countries including DRC, Ghana, Egypt, Nigeria, and South Africa); a following of over 150,000 followers at the time of writing have shared our work; it’s been studied by over 2,000 students in US classrooms teaching about media stereotypes and visual literacy; it has spawned numerous partner projects, “Everyday” Instagram accounts for regions and countries worldwide, and we are publishing a book, due out in Spring 2016.

Everyday Africa | FEATURE

We’ve known for a long time that we wanted to create a book of this ever-growing archive, a record of everyday activities to contrast the extremes we are usually shown from Africa — but how to make a book feel important, when the images are already viewable on social media? Then it hit us — we’re barraged by images constantly in the world today, so not only is it interesting to take the best of those images and put them on paper, it’s also vital to show the most engaging conversations our project has sparked. The stream of images is the document we want to curate and preserve. The book will include over 300 photographs, as well as selected Instagram commentary from many of those photos.

The two of us – having both lived in the region for years at a time – were feeling confined by the narrative of our reporting, looking only for refugees, victims, and signs of continued violence These comments are far more than simply interesting observations. Honest, shocking, funny, and heartfelt, they are delivered in an informal tone that can be lighthearted one moment and caustic the next. The negative, often flippantly paternalistic comments speak volumes about widely held perceptions of the people of Africa, while the

The Ken Fac troupe, from Kensington, march through the streets of Parkwood, Cape Town before attending the completion of the Minstrel Carnival, 2013

“She’s my girl,” the young man said proudly… Dembara village, southern Senegal

The negative, often flippantly paternalistic comments speak volumes about widely held perceptions of the people of Africa

A midwife speaks to expectant women and their companions during an antenatal class at Aketa Health Centre III, in Katakwi district, east of Kampala, Uganda’s capital

Three boys from the junior school at Aga Khan Academy in Mombasa, Kenya, race on the school’s track

FEATURE | Everyday Africa

Everyday Africa | FEATURE

Exam week at the Université Protestante au Congo, Kinshasa, DRC

FEATURE | Everyday Africa

Boys playing soccer in Port Bouet Abidjan Ivory CoastPort-Bouet is one of four communes of Abidjan south of Ébrié Laguns that was affected by the 2010-2011 Ivory Coast civil war.

Far right: Celline at home in Paradise, a community center her mother runs in Kibera, and home to over 40 abandoned children, battered women, and rape victims. Though not even out of secondary school, Celline Akinyi, 17, has built a grassroots fashion business to help support herself, and empower other women. Taking inspiration from her home in Kenya’s largest slum, Kibera, and fashion magazines, Celline redesigns used clothing sent to Africa as donations.

Right: Elizabeth Diouf Cisse, a 19-year-old student from Fafacourou village, southern Senegal, July 23, 2012.

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The book will include over 300 photographs, as well as selected Instagram commentary from many of those photos

more familiar comments underscore the continent’s increased connectivity in a globalised world — together they justify, in the most urgent way, Everyday Africa’s very existence. My favourites of these conversations — those I have learned from the most — are the ones that challenge our idea of what is ‘normal’. Everyday Africa strives to show a different side of the continent, but this does not always mean the suit-and-tie parts. At times, when we show rural life, we are criticised for showing poverty — but then our other followers step in, and engage in a thought-provoking discussion. My favourite comment, in fact, summarises the whole point of our work: in response to someone saying one of our photographs was “sad”, another commenter said, “Please stop assuming that because life looks different than yours, it is tragic!” I couldn’t have said it better myself.

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Follow @everydayafrica on Instagram, where you can join in the conversation. To find out more and pre-order the book, due out in Spring 2016, visit everydayafricaproject.com

Left: Hauwa and Femi celebrate their one year wedding anniversary at their home in Lagos, Nigeria.

Above: A photographer’s assistant and model, August 2014.

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Role Models | BUSINESS & FINANCE

ROLE MODELS Wings meets five inspirational entrepreneurs, whose African business ventures are defying expectations. Read on for their stories, their business tips, and to find out how each one is investing in other women, to ensure they succeed WORDS BELINDA OTAS

The Go-Getter

LYNETTE NTULI

Founder and CEO, Innate Investment Solutions, South Africa Business sector: Property, asset and infrastructure development solutions

“African women are the new economy and engine of this continent. We are finally taking our place, owning our voice and making our space” Lynette Ntuli “I was always going to be entrepreneur; ‘when’ and ‘how’ were the only variables. I was raised by an entrepreneur, so it’s in my DNA. There’s no perfect time to start the business journey, just a series of decisions you are willing to work on. In fact, I would say if you are not bold and strong in yourself and you cower under pressure, prejudice, discrimination, and the power games that are played in business – then don’t do it. “I have learnt not to adapt – I’m me. I can’t lose my gender, my colour, my youth or my mind for everyone I meet. Instead, I’m going to dazzle in the areas where we can be equal – in skill, delivery and excellence. There have been situations where my gender and age were meant to work against me: It happens so often, in fact, I’m pretty sure that some men are unaware of the boundaries and norms they breach in order to ‘put us in our place’. I’ve learnt to quickly and quietly call out the behaviour and get on with the work. “Self-confidence, combined with a strong sense of self, is incredibly important for a young woman in business. We must recognise and respect the level of sacrifice that’s required of us – the long hours, the travel, the studies, the projects that keep you awake and away from your leisure and family time. We must also know that business equals risk. You can’t run from it and if you can’t manage it, business will be a very scary place to operate in. If you don’t swing, you don’t hit. “As an entrepreneur, I believe it’s vital to do things differently,

which is one reason I’ve branded myself in a way that attracts head-hunters. Given the sector I operate in, I’ve worked strategically to ensure my firm always works on unique projects. The company is not positioned to compete with the very large and established property practitioners within the sector; instead, we want to service the gaps in the market. We’ve taken the approach of responding to the challenges and needs of underdeveloped institutions, communities and markets in South Africa. We are the market, so we can also respond with insight and sensitivity to the nuances of organisations. It’s really about being the best at providing the right solutions. “In time, we will be global, but for now, we want to entrench a strong position in South Africa and on the continent. If this means partnering with global brands and supporting them into our market, but also sharing Africa’s best practice globally, then we will. There are still too few women in the industry across the continent, especially in senior and executive positions. We need to change that. It’s about those who are already working in the industry, keeping the door unlocked behind them and encouraging other young women that this is a career of choice and that they can build a legacy. This is why I believe the value of mentoring cannot be underestimated. I was mentored, I’m still being mentored and I mentor others. One thing I’ll say to women entrepreneurs like myself is: work insanely hard. Be clear in your intent, nurture and empower yourself. Love what you do, because if you don’t, it shows. ‘“African women are the new economy and engine of this continent. We are finally taking our place, owning our voice and making our space in the economic arena. It’s my hope that the next generation knows this is a time called ‘now’! It isn’t a dress-rehearsal for their potential, it’s the stage for their greatness and they have to play that part without fear. And even when it feels like it doesn’t fit, they must know that they will grow into it.” 91

BUSINESS & FINANCE | Role Models

The Wellbeing Crusader

GRACE AMEY-OBENG Founder and CEO of Forever Clair (FC) Group, Ghana Business sector: Health and beauty

“When you face daunting challenges along the way, your response should always be that of defiance, strong will and commitment” Grace Amey-Obeng “When I started out in the industry, going from door-to-door, offering beauty services to prospective clients, I simply had one desire – to make people look and feel good. The ripple effect of that dream led to the establishment of our first salon and subsequently our college, followed by our manufacturing and beauty supply products. One thing I knew I had to do in the early days was brand FC as a ‘trusted’ 92

brand, especially when it came to the fact that there were, and still are, products that promoted skin bleaching to African women. It was also necessary to establish ourselves as a market leader. As such, we have enjoyed good patronage. Unlike other brands, our skin-care line has proven to be effective in preserving the skin’s tone. As a company, we have always held the view that ‘black is beautiful’. This is why we continue to invest in research and development in cosmetic ingredients that are beneficial to our skin type and any peculiar skin conditions as African women. “Promoting the wellbeing of our clients has always been at the heart of our operation. We vigorously teach our clients first to take care of themselves from within before they take care of their outward appearance. It’s essential to know your market, and the key term I would use here is to bring international standards to the local space. The FC brand has withstood the test of time because of its quality and its efficacy in dealing with stubborn skin conditions, such as acne and dark spots. “It’s vital to break new ground in business, and we keep looking for ways to make our products better. Research and development is essential to our business. As such, we invest heavily in improving our formulations to suit the needs of our target market. Over the last few years, we turned our focus to improving our market share in the make-up and colour cosmetics sub-sector. Our formulators have recently undergone further training overseas to help improve our products and consistency. In an increasingly competitive market, our business development strategy now is to increase our presence internationally. We are aggressively pursuing our business expansion goal of establishing strong presence in major economies such as Nigeria, South Africa, Cote d’Ivoire and even the Caribbean. “Being in business is not child’s play, and anyone who tells you otherwise is not being true to you. I’m not afraid of taking risks and I have always refused to allow my gender to limit my business aspirations. When you face daunting challenges along the way, your response should always be that of defiance, strong will and commitment. I have always been a rebel – I find myself always challenging the status quo and doing things in sharp contrast to accepted conventions. I can hardly recollect situations in which people’s disbelief in my abilities and my gender hindered my business goals. It’s my vision to see women adequately empowered, so they can be effective in their roles in business and society, for them to get the necessary education so they can stand beside their male counterparts in the corporate world. And as the world goes global, I hope women will grasp the opportunities this presents and put them to good use. Women should not allow anything to deny them the joy that comes with pursuing and fulfilling a dream.”

Role Models | BUSINESS & FINANCE

The Empowering Entrepreneur

DEBBY EDELSTEIN

Co-founder and Managing Director, QualityLife Company, South Africa Business sector: Entrepreneur, speaker and writer on women’s leadership and leadership trends, South Africa

“I’m passionate about raising women entrepreneurs, because Africa needs more women leaders and innovators in technology” Debby Edelstein “My work in women’s empowerment over the last 15 years means I’ve developed finely tuned radar around making sure talented women are celebrated and recognised for their leadership. I was struck by how many talented women in technology there are in Africa. These women deserve to have their stories and accomplishments recognised and celebrated. It helps us develop the infrastructure of role models necessary to inspire the next generation of women in tech, and this is why we started WiredWomen, which has been enthusiastically received by the industry. I have mentored numerous women leaders around the country over the years, and one of the ways I encourage them is telling them to step up to the platform and tell their stories. At Quality Life, we’re passionate about leadership development. “I understand why many believe the tech sector in Africa is still male-dominated, but women have and continue to make progress. We have sufficient research from organisations like Credit Suisse and UN Women to convince us that in order for any organisation to be able to compete, the reflection of diversity in its board and workforce is imperative. For a continent like ours, where becoming globally competitive is so urgent, we should be capitalising on the talent and

diversity we have going for us. So, in terms of the hard business evidence to support diversity – including, but not limited, to gender – we’re better poised than before. “I’m encouraged by the favourable response to the work we are doing to encourage women in tech, but certainly more needs to be done. We just have to look at the proportion of women heading up tech companies and sitting on boards to know how much work we still have to do. We can’t relax yet. I always encourage the women on my leadership programs to advocate for each other loudly. This kind of peer support can be invaluable in giving women the kind of leg-up needed to step up, speak up and raise our game. “When it comes to the way women are placed within industry, I’m particularly excited by women who bridge the gap between technology and social good. Using technology to change the world has to be the most important use of technology available. Women seem naturally poised to keep the industry focused on the potential for social good, in addition to big business. Many women avoid tech because they feel underqualified if they haven’t graduated as engineers or computer scientists. But the tech world is particularly expansive and while you do need a certain level of skill, what really matters is that you are innovative and have a passion for the space. “Women who have excelled in the tech space without being traditional ‘techies’ include Ory Okolloh, who trained as a lawyer but, after her experience at Enablis, was enabling Africans to establish successful business models. I must emphasise the effectiveness of mentoring in an industry that evolves at a fast pace. Mentoring is a good idea in any sector, and for women in tech, we need to understand its value at all levels. There’s a huge drive to encourage girls to pursue STEM (Science, Technology, Engineering and Mathematics) subjects, and mentorship is vital to encouraging a larger pool of girls to pursue careers in tech. I’m passionate about raising women entrepreneurs, because Africa needs more women leaders and innovators in technology. Our economies desperately need entrepreneurs, and it’s important to encourage more women to pursue that goal and see it as a viable option.”

BUSINESS & FINANCE | Role Models

The Beauty Evangelist

TARA FELA-DUROTOYE

Founder and CEO, House Of Tara and House Of Tara Make-Up School, Nigeria Business sector: Health and beauty

“A foreign brand can’t be a Nigerian brand… Local brands appeal to an emotion that foreign brands can’t” Tara Fela-Durotoye “In an industry where trends dictate what’s cool, you must have a sense of purpose about what you are doing in order to stay focused. I feel like I’m on an assignment and I see my role in the Nigerian make-up industry beyond that of a business. It’s about the degree of lives that are going to be impacted, whether in terms of microentrepreneurship or building an organisation that Nigerians can be proud of, and building a beauty business that originated in Africa. “The beauty industry in sub-Saharan Africa is growing and setting

the trend, and Nigeria is at the heartbeat of that evolution. In fact, we have a lot of interest in House Of Tara from East Africa. House Of Tara as an indigenous make-up company has changed the way business is conducted in the beauty sector. It was critical to be strategic about being positioned as a leading brand within the local Nigerian market, with an awareness of international brands that were present. Doing that meant being bold and proud to say out loud that black is beautiful and African women should celebrate the skin they are in. “A clear brand essence is important. House Of Tara – the make-up line – prides itself on being a professional product, created by a pioneer make-up artist who set the tone for the industry in Nigeria. That equation cannot be created by a foreign brand, nor can it take credit for it. So, I have leveraged on that – the pioneering factor – and on the fact that Nigerian women have confidence in my knowledge, how I have related with them and carried them along while building something out of nothing. That will always stand as a mark of differentiation. Secondly, House of Tara is a brand that promotes ethnicity and the things that make us who we are – our culture. Many of the products are either themed beauty icons or heroines in Africa or based around beauty concepts of Africa. For example, some of our products have names like ‘Arewa’ and ‘Omalicha’ for some of our eye shadows. We have an eye-pencil that goes by the name, ‘Adire’ and a lip gloss called ‘Lokoja’. These are names that Nigerians recognise and can identify with, because they’re part of their cultural heritage. A foreign brand can’t own that. A foreign brand can’t be a Nigerian brand. It can only be a foreign brand that’s trying to be international in a local market. Local brands appeal to an emotion that foreign brands can’t. “My goal was to build a company that Africa could be proud of. Creating a business model that gave other women an opportunity to discover their own gifts and be economically empowered was an integral part of the dream. I’m from a long line of entrepreneurs – my grandfather was a businessman in the banking and real-estate sectors. I have the gift of enterprise and wanted to develop other people to be entrepreneurs too. When you teach a young woman how to use a skill like make-up artistry, you have forever impacted her life. She remembers that if it wasn’t for House Of Tara, they would never have explored the possibilities. My personality is fearless, and when fear is a factor about making the big moves like my expansion and distribution plan in Africa, I just do it, afraid! One thing I have done consistently is to stay focused on my purpose. “My message to young women entrepreneurs is this – businesses experience phases. There’s a phase where you are just starting up and need to give it your all. What sort of brand are you building? Your brand is your identity. How do people perceive your brand? It’s not just about the product that you’re offering. When people think of your brand, what positive or negative emotions come to mind? These things are important at the foundation level, because that’s a critical stage of building. It means investing in quality, your education and in the time that’s required. You have to be a 24-hour-employee of that business, and as you grow, you get to a point where you have more time on your hands. It’s at that point you begin to employ other people to take some of the responsibility off you.”

Role Models | BUSINESS & FINANCE

The Architectural Ambassador

OLAJUMOKE ADENOWO Founder and Principal Partner, AD Consulting (Nigeria) Business sector: Training and mentoring

“Your dream is your responsibility. Your greatest obstacle is the person you face in the mirror daily” Olajumoke Adenowo

“I was brought up by parents who believed in me. My mum, a Professor of Criminology, is a role model of a contemporary African Woman. She didn‘t have to tell me, I could do anything. She just went ahead and achieved, and I observed and learnt. She never ever let me back out when things got rough. My dad never told me “you are a girl – don't do that”. Fathers play an irreplaceable role in their daughters' lives, because the balanced confidence and assertiveness a girl-child needs primarily comes from her father's positive influence on her. However, your dream is your responsibility. Your greatest obstacle is the person you face in the mirror daily. “In business, criticism is feedback and when I get valid criticism, I learn from it. When it’s otherwise, it‘s irrelevant. I can't please everybody, so I tune them out. In the same manner, I do not allow my gender to get in the way of executing the job at hand. It’s natural to notice gender in the course of human interactions and invariably, you are filtered through the lens of experience. The party interacting with you subconsciously pulls up data on all the females they have ever known, and subconsciously categorises you in comparison to them. I remember the first time I was introduced to a (now) very good client by his friend as the best architect to design his house in Northern Nigeria. This now-good client laughed out loud and said in Hausa "this girl"? I was not offended. I was challenged. I went on to design the house and it became a landmark. The rest is history. When I’m disdained for being female, I’m challenged and I seize the opportunity to prove people wrong. The main challenge for me in business, I believe, is not gender, it’s corruption. I’m known for being ethical and that is invaluable: it’ll set your brand apart from others. “I’ve been blessed to have the experiences I have had. It’s the reason I enjoy mentoring other women in leadership and business. I do this through Awesome Treasures Foundation, which raises transformational women leaders. I’m passionate about people discovering their purpose, developing their gifts and deploying it for social impact. We have summits with attendances of between 1,500 to 5,000 people, and have had over 70,000 attendees since we started operating. We have trained over 5,000 women in skills acquisition in cooperation with our affiliates. It’s crucial that women support women because no-one understands a woman like another woman does. A woman in business faces a totally different set of constraints from a man in business. Many women at Awesome Treasures attest to this fact. They say the first thing that happens when they encounter Awesome Treasures is that they are emboldened. The fear of stepping out, daring to be and do, can only be appreciated by another woman. Even the traditional environment in which the networking for Big Deals occurs is still a ‘Boys Club’. We therefore need to support each other as we are sisters, not rivals. In my opinion, if women are referred to as their own ‘worst enemies’, it’s because they see other women as rivals and not sisters. “It’s a delicate balance for a creative soul in business, because to stay in business you must make money. To succeed at that, you must realise that ‘nothing ventured, nothing gained‘. People are afraid of failure, but failure is not final, it should be seen as part of a learning process in business. One successful venture in business makes further effort worthwhile. If you question yourself, saying “what if I fail?” You need to reply yourself, and say “What if I don't fail, what if I succeed?” “The key to my success for me is perhaps the fact that I don't see myself as a success – yet. I see myself as someone on a journey. The vision for AD and Awesome Treasures Foundation keeps evolving. What lies ahead is more important to me than what is behind.”

RT ND IDE S FROM FRIC TH T RE CH NGING THE WORLD

THU 10 SEP

FRI 11 SEP

SUN 13 SEP

SPOEK MATHAMBO

AFRIQUOI + AFRICAN HEAD CHARGE

CHINEKE!

Documentary screening and DJ set

+ Guests

FRI 11 & SAT 12 SEP

STAR BOY PRODUCTIONS

FRI 11 SEP

Exploring migrants’ stories

ORCHESTRA BAOBAB + Blick Bassy SAT 12 SEP

KASSÉ MADY DIABETÉ 10 – 13 SEPTEMBER 2015 Plus talks and debates, African street food, free events, art and workshops. BOOK NOW

#africautopia TV Partner

Airline Partner

The groundbreaking orchestra debuts SUN 13 SEP

TONY ALLEN REVIEW with Toumani and Sidiki Diabeté

Done buying your ticket? Now book over 500 hotels across our network and explore more of the world through our new Arik Explorer program. Launching December 1st 2014

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100 Inside Arik 102 Onboard Tips 103 Fleet 104 Safety & Services 106 Route Map 108 Contact Us www.arikair.com

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INSIDE ARIK

CREATING AN ADVANTAGE

ARIK LAUNCHES A NEW CAMPAIGN

his July saw a brand new campaign that kicked off in Lagos. Tagged #ArikAdvantage, the campaign is the first of its kind for the airline, running across traditional, social and digital media. The new campaign is set to raise the profile and identity of Arik Air. Jide Alade, Associate Vice President of Marketing and Communication says, "#ArikAdvantage presents to the travelling public a reason to buy and stay loyal to Arik Air. We

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have grown to be the number one airline in Nigeria and in West Africa on the strength of our commitment to offer value to all of our passengers. That is why, for instance, we invest in new planes, why we are obsessed with safety, and why we configure all our planes to give better legroom and fully flat beds in business class. These are offerings that stand us apart from the competition, making up the suite of benefits that form #ArikAdvantage.â&#x20AC;? The campaign firmly

positions the airline and its range of services as being contemporary, competent and essentially value-oriented.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a deal Grab the best deals online Head over to Arik Air's official website to snag the cheapest fares to and from Nigeria, plus special offers, all year round. Book now at www.arikair.com

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FACE TIME MEET WOUTER BOTHMA, AIRPORT DUTY OFFICER — JOHANNESBURG

“I’m based at Oliver Tambo International Airport and started with Arik Air when we opened the Johannesburg route in 2009. My job involves ensuring that smooth and safe flight operations are maintained at all times. As a child, I was fascinated by planes, so it has always been a dream of mine to work in the

aviation industry. I’d say the most challenging thing for me is to work with passengers that have previously had a bad experience. It’s always challenging to regain their confidence but my advice would be to always do your best in any situation and to treat everyone the way you would like to be treated. The most rewarding part of my job is to see satisfied and happy passengers. We get many celebrities travelling to and from Johannesburg. I’ve met Snoop Dogg, Seal, John Travolta and Richard Branson. I don’t travel as much as I would like to, but I was in Kwazulu Natal recently and it is a magical place. My dream destination? I would love to see Paris, It is one of my goals to take my wife on a romantic get-away."

A NEAT TRAVEL PACKAGE TRAVEL IN STYLE WITH ARIK EXPLORER A new sub company, Arik Explorer adds to the travel experience by giving customers a travel package that features airline seats, hotel bookings, car hire and travel insurance. There are two levels for outbound and inbound travel from Lagos and other Arik destinations. ‘Premium’ luxury options and ‘affordable’ weekend packages are part of the offer as are special interest packages including company retreats that are tailored for group or individual travellers. Professional teams will be

behind the delivery of the service and hotel partners will be able to upload rooms and vehicles in real time, on the Arik Air website. Customers can also choose to use the company’s mobile application software to book rooms with their cellphones and tablets. Kencho Omojafor, Managing Director of Arik Explorer says of the new services, “We are fully committed to supporting growth and development in the tourism industry and contribute positively to the community,” adding that “we will also provide unparalleled service to our local and international tourists, not only to Nigeria but to the West Coast and beyond.”

Travelling with benefits A simple way to join Arik’s Frequent Flyer programme

Pearl, Bronze, Silver or Gold memberships are free as part of Arik’s Affinity Wings programme. Customers can

sign up via a straightforward online booking process. Members can accumulate Affinity Points which enable them to earn and redeem valued Affinity Miles, with benefits featuring allowances for excess baggage, lounge access and special spending deals with a range of Arik’s commercial partners. Not bad – especially for all those travelling long haul to international destinations. Arikaffinitywings.com

WARNING AGAINST FRAUDULENT WEBSITES

Website’ in the Google search ranking page. n When e-mailing Arik Air, you should also ensure that the e-mail address is genuine: name.surname@arikair.com or department@arikair.com n Sometimes these exact addresses will appear on the screen, but when you click on the address, a different e-mail address will appear, so be alert to this. Arik Air will never use free e-mail accounts such as hotmail, yahoomail, or gmail to contact you.

Arik Air would like to warn its customers of an increase in the number of scam websites purporting to be operated by Arik Air. These websites can appear highly professional and some may display our advertising and accredited logos. Such websites have the sole purpose of selling fraudulent air tickets and in no way represent Arik Air.

HOW TO AVOID BECOMING VICTIM OF FRAUDULENT WEBSITES? n You should always access the official Arik Air website by typing: www.arikair.com into your browser or choosing ‘Arik Air Official

Please be aware that, unfortunately, payment made to such fraudulent online vendors are neither guaranteed nor eligible for refund by Arik Air www.Arikair.com THE ONLY OFFICIAL ARIK AIR WEBSITE

www.arikair.com

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ONBOARD TIPS

HEALTH & COMFORT DRESS FOR COMFORT

EQUALISE EAR PRESSURE

Loosen shoe laces, belts, tight socks and ties for maximum comfort.

During ascent and descent, changes in the cabin pressure can cause a feeling of discomfort in your ears. Chewing gum or sucking and swallowing will help equalise the pressure in your ears. Babies or young passengers may suffer more acutely. Consider providing them with a dummy to suck on.

ENTERTAIN YOURSELF Enjoy a film, read your copy of Wings or explore your personalised in-flight entertainment system. Arik Air offers a great choice of Hollywood and Nollywood movies, radio channels and a map display.

HYDRATE Try and drink eight ounces of water every hour. Avoid drinking too much tea, coffee and alcohol, which are diuretics.

ADJUST YOUR SEAT Use the seat recline as well as the lumbar support to find a comfortable position. All Arik Air seats are fitted with a footrest that, while aiding your comfort, will also help relieve pressure on your calf muscles.

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MOISTURISE To combat dry cabin air, pamper yourself with a good-quality skin moisturiser, provided as standard to premier class passengers.

GIVE YOUR EYES A BREAK Contact lenses may cause eye irritation due to the dry cabin air. We recommend that you wear your glasses in flight. Your eyes will feel fresher and less tired when you arrive.

CIRCULATION SAFETY Try doing seated leg exercises every couple of hours throughout the flight to help prevent stiffness and swelling. Lift your knees while at the same time clenching your thigh muscles and pointing your toes up and down and around in a circular motion. Repeat this between 10 and 20 times with each leg. Doing these exercises whilst flying will help you feel better when you arrive. When resting, try to make sure your body is in a comfortable position and turn frequently so your body is not constricted or stretched for long periods of time. Try to avoid sleeping for long periods without changing position.

n Pay close attention to the safety briefings at the beginning and end of the flight and know the location of all exits including how many rows away you are from an exit. n Be aware of which electronic devices are and are not allowed to be used during the flight. If you are unsure of our policies, consult a crew member. Mobile phones are not permitted for use at any time whilst on board. n Follow the instructions of the crew at all times and be respectful of them and the other passengers. n Inform the crew of any disruptive behaviour, follow their instructions, and be courteous. n Be aware of safety procedures, relax and enjoy your flight!

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FLEET AIRBUS A340–500 n Number of aircraft in fleet 2nn Number of seats 237nn Length 69mnn Wingspan 63.45mnn Cruising speed 881km/h

AIRBUS A330–200 n Number of aircraft in fleet 2nn Number of seats 217nn Length 58.82mnn Wingspan 60.3mnn Cruising speed 871km/h

BOEING 737–800 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 148nn Length 39.5mnn Wingspan 35.7mnn Cruising speed 828km/h

BOEING 737–700 n Number of aircraft in fleet 9nn Number of seats 124-149nn Length 33.6mnn Wingspan 35.7mnn Cruising speed 828km/h

BOMBARDIER CRJ1000 n Number of aircraft in fleet 1nn Number of seats 92nn Length 39mnn Wingspan 26mnn Cruising speed 870km/h

BOMBARDIER CRJ900 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 74nn Length 36.40mnn Wingspan 24.85mnn Cruising speed 881km/h

BOMBARDIER DASH8 Q400 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 72nn Length 32.8mnn Wingspan 28.4mnn Cruising speed 660km/h www.arikair.com

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SAFETY & SERVICES TICKET PURCHASE Bookings and e-ticket purchases can be made by calling our reservation desks or call centres or online at www.arikair.com. They can also be made by visiting our airport or regional offices or via select travel agents. Please see the Contact Us page or our website for further details. You can access all up-to-date fares by going to the booking engine on our homepage. A booking cannot be cancelled online once it has been

confirmed. However, you can call our reservations office or visit your local Arik Air office for cancellations or to reschedule a booking. Note that an administration charge may be charged for cancellations or rescheduling of flights. If you choose to pay for your fare by cash, you may collect your ticket from our city office, or local airport office. Passports should be valid for more than six months from the date of travel. We advise you to contact the embassy or consulate of your transit and final destination for visa requirements.

Special Fares Promotional and special fares are posted on our website on a regular basis. Please go online and check www.arikair.com for updates.

CHECK IN n Arik Air check-in counters open in Nigeria two hours before departure for domestic flights, three hours before regional flights, and four hours before international flights.

Arik App With the Arik Air App, you’re in charge of your flying experience. The app is free to download on Blackberry, iOS, or Android devices For more information visit arikair.com/arik-airmobile-app

www.arikair.com

For international flights, checked in baggage allowance is:

PREMIER BUSINESS CLASS 3 pieces at 30kg max per piece.

ECONOMY CLASS 2 pieces at 30kg max per piece. n The total number of bags allowed for any guest is eight pieces. n Do not overfill suitcases and bags beyond their weight or volume capacity. This can lead to breakage of handles, zips, wheels or other damage caused to your baggage. The airline is not liable for these types of damages. n It is advisable to label all baggage with your name, destination and contact details.

n Keep any baggage labels or receipts in a safe place. You may be required to present them upon leaving the airport. n It is advisable to clearly label or tie a coloured ribbon to your luggage in order to identify your bags easily. n Guests are permitted to carry one piece of hand luggage at 12kg maximum. n Knives, nail scissors, tweezers, lighters and other sharp or explosive objects are not allowed in hand luggage.

n At check-in, please present your passport and ticket together with anything else you were asked at the time of booking to bring with you, such as your company ID card. n Knives, nail scissors, tweezers, lighters and other sharp or explosive objects are not allowed in hand luggage. Please see the notices at the airport. n Guests who fail to complete check-in procedures on time will not be permitted to travel. n Premier Business Class guests are entitled to use business class lounges at Johannesburg International, London Heathrow, New York JFK and Lagos Murtala Muhammed International airports. n All guests must complete check-in for their Arik Air flight prior to check-in closure which is 30 minutes for domestic flights, 60 minutes for regional flights and 90 minutes for International flights. Strict

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closure of check-in at all airports is to ensure our flights depart on time. Once we have accepted guests at the check-in desks, we close the flight at the stated latest check in time to permit the necessary calculations and preparations for an ‘on-time’ departure. Re-opening our guest list after check-in closure puts the flight at risk of delay, i.e. the flight could miss its allocated take-off slot.

ONLINE CHECK-IN Online check-in allows you to avoid long check-in queues at the airport and confirm your seat in advance. It opens 24 hours before the scheduled departure time of your flight and closes five hours before international flights and three hours before domestic and regional flights. Log on to www.arikair.com and follow the prompts to the online check-in service, and follow the instructions.

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UNACCOMPANIED MINORS Unaccompanied minors are well looked after on all Arik Air flights. Our crew will assist with all of the complicated airport details and forms and will help unaccompanied minors call home at our cost to let parents know they are okay. Onboard, we make sure the youngsters have a great time with lots of goodies and attention. In fact, they probably won’t even notice that mum and dad aren’t around! We will carry unaccompanied minors only upon completion and signature of the necessary forms by a parent or guardian. n Domestic Flights Arik Air does not carry unaccompanied minors under five years.

SAFETY STANDARDS

MEALS

Arik Air is committed to ensuring that a safe, hazard-free environment prevails throughout its areas of operation, for both employees and guests, by meeting or exceeding all flight, occupational, and environmental health and safety standards. The management considers safety as the number one priority for the airline, and is committed to minimising the possibility of accidents by implementing a safety program provided by the Corporate Safety and Security Department.

A choice of international and Nigerian cuisine is available to all guests on Arik Air flights. Vegetarian and children’s meals are available to guests on designated routes. Requests must be made at the time of ticket purchase online or via our call centre or reservation desks a minimum of 48 hours before the flight. On international flights, soft drinks, wine, cocktails and snacks are available to Premier Class guests at the Kira Bar.

WHEELCHAIR SERVICE Elderly guests and guests with walking difficulties are entitled to wheelchair service. However requests must be made at the time of ticket purchase or reservation.

CHILDCARE We provide a variety of amenities to ensure a stress-free flight for parents of babies and small children. Please ask a flight attendant for assistance. Diaper changing boards are located in selected toilets.

AIRBUS A340 & A330 CABIN FEATURES

n International Flights Arik Air does not carry unaccompanied minors under five years of age and also if there is a transfer prior to the final destination.

CARRIAGE OF INFANTS If you are travelling with an Infant under 24 months you can include them on your seat booking by making an Infant reservation. Newly born Infants under seven days old will not be accepted. For safety requirements Infants must be accompanied by a guest aged 21 years or above and booked in the ratio of one infant per adult. Infants under 24 months on the day of travel may fly for a significantly reduced infant fare per one-way flight, provided they sit on an adult’s lap. If the Infant reaches the age of two years prior to the return journey they must contact Arik’s reservations directly to book a seat, as safety regulations require that a seat is allocated. Proof of age may be required so please have the Infant’s valid photo-ID available for inspection.

Premier Business Class guests on international flights enjoy fully flat seats with a 10-motor vibro massage system, full control by touchscreen suite, electric leg, head and armrest extension and rotation, mirrored privacy dividers and on-board social bar area. Our economy seats provide extra leg space, and all seats are equipped with individual entertainment systems.

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ROUTE MAP

NEW YORK CITY

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

SOKOTO

KANO

KADUNA

GOMBE JOS

ABUJA

YOLA

ILORIN IBADAN ENUGU

LAGOS

ASABA BENIN CITY WARRI PORT HARCOURT

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OWERRI UYO CALABAR

ARIK AIR DOMESTIC ROUTES

ARIK ZONE

UK LONDON

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GHANA

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CÔTE D’IVOIRE COTONOU ABIDJAN

ACCRA

NIGERIA ABUJA LAGOS

CAMEROON DOUALA

ANGOLA LUANDA

JOHANNESBURG SOUTH AFRICA

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CONTACT Reservations Nigeria +234 (0)1 2799999 +234 (0)1 906 7000 Angola +244 222 391150 Cameroon +237 33428248 +23733432285 The Gambia +220 4399966/77 Ghana +233 (0) 233 044 800/1/6/7 Liberia +231 (0) 22 00 76 54 Republic Of Benin (229) 2131 84 10 (229) 21 30 34 81 Republic Of Côte D’Ivoire (225) 21 21 97 32 (225) 20 22 28 08 Senegal +221 33 821 7497 Sierra Leone +232 25203949 South Africa +27(0)11 666 7470 United Kingdom +44 (0)844 482 2324 USA + 1 877 900 2745

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To provide feedback on your travel experience with us: T +234 1 906 7000 +234 1 279 9999 E talktous@arikair.com

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If your company has a question concerning business travel: T 08077791154 08077911466 E corporatesales@arikair.com

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To make a booking for nine (9) or more guests travelling together: T +234 (0) 8077791667 E gdm@arikair.com

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For enquiries into our Charter services: T +234 (0) 8077791652 E chartersales@arikair.com

GENERAL ENQUIRIES

If your query does not fall into any of the above categories: E info@arikair.com

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ARIK AIR TRAVEL SHOPS & AIRPORT TICKET OFFICES

NIGERIA ABUJA Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Abuja Nnamdi Azikiwe International Airport Terminal Abuja Domestic Airport Terminal LAGOS Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Lagos Murtala Muhammed International Airport, MMIA Lagos Murtala Muhammed Domestic Airport (GAT) PORT HARCOURT Arik Air Travel Shop Port Harcourt International Airport Port Harcourt Garden City Terminal REGIONAL & INTERNATIONAL ANGOLA Arik Air General Sales Agent

Melita Plaza, Near Efab Plaza, Ahmadu Bello Way, Area 11 Transcorp Hilton, 1 Aguiyi Ironsi Street, Maitama 417 Tigris Crescent, Off Aguiyi Ironsi, Maitama

45 Awolowo Road, Ikoyi 44 Toyin Street, Ikeja Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 30 Mobolaji Bank Anthony Way, Ikeja

47 Aba Road, Eastern Garden House

Aeroporto Internacional 4 de Fevereiro Luanda

Valeria Tours, Rua Dr Alves da Cunha Nº 4 1º A (descendo o Largo Mutu Ya Kevela) Luanda

CAMEROON Arik Air General Sales Agent

Inalex Voyages 1595 Blvd de la Liberte, Akwa, Bp 15080

Douala International Airport

Douala

THE GAMBIA Arik Air Travel Shop Yundun International Airport

FIB Building 2, Kairaba Avenue, Serekunda Banjul

GHANA Arik Air Travel Shop

Ground Floor, Phillipa, 89 Ringway Estate, Osu, P.M.B 95 KIA, Accra

Kotoka International Airport LIBERIA Arik Air Travel Shop Monrovia Roberts International Airport REPUBLIC OF BENIN City ticketing office Airport ticketing office REPUBLIC OF CÔTE D'IVOIRE City ticketing office Airport ticketing office

Accra Rose Garden Plaza, Crown Hill, Monrovia Monrovia Olizair Bénin, angle Avenue Steinmetz / Rue Chagas, Immeuble Kougblenou, 01 P.O. Box 3530 Cotonou Olizair Bénin, Aéroport international Cardinal Bernandin Gantin, Cotonou Olizair Côte d'Ivoire, Rue du commerce, Immeuble l’Amiral, 17 P.O. Box 199 Abidjan 17 Olizair Côte d'Ivoire, Aéroport international Félix Houphouët Boigny, Abidjan

SENEGAL Arik Travel Travel Shop Immeuble Amsa Assurance, Amadou Assane N’doye, Dakar Dakar-Yoff-Leopold Sedar Senghor International Dakar Airport SIERRA LEONE Arik Air Travel Shop 13 Howe Street, Freetown Arik Air Sales Desk Lungi International Airport SOUTH AFRICA Arik Air International Sales Agent O.R. Tambo International Airport, International Terminal UNITED KINGDOM Arik Air General Sales Agent London Heathrow Airport, Terminal 4 USA Arik Air General Sales Agent John F Kennedy Airport, Terminal 4

Zenith Bank, 18-20 Rawdon Street, Freetown Freetown Suite 14, 1st Floor Daisy Street Office Park 135 Daisy Street, Sandown, Sandton, Johannesburg Johannesburg

Aviareps PLC., 52 Grosvenor Gardens, London, SW1W 0AU London Aviareps INC New York City

WINGTIPS Your definitive guide to Arik Air destinations 110 Abidjan Abuja Accra 111 Asaba Banjul Benin 112 Cotonou Calabar Dakar 113 Douala Enugu Freetown 114 Gombe Ibadan Ilorin 115 Johannesburg Jos Kaduna 116 Kano Lagos London 117 Luanda Monrovia New York City 118 Owerri Port Harcourt Sokoto 119 Uyo Warri Yola

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WINGTIPS

ABIDJAN

CÔTE D’IVOIRE An industrial and modern city, Abidjan has a number of cultural offerings for business travellers as well as tourists en route to one of The Ivory Coast’s bountiful beaches. Notable spots include the Galerie d’Arts Pluriel, (Rue des Jardins) which is run by a local arts historian, and the Musée National (32 Boulevard Carde), which houses traditional artworks. The Cathedrale St Paul (Boulevard Lagunaire) is also well worth a visit. BUY The Marché de Cocody (Boulevard de France) has a top floor geared for souvenir-hunters, with intricate woodcarvings, masks, textiles, jewels, and timeless examples of Ivorian art. If you’d like a more local feel, though, head to Marché de Treichville on Avenue Victor Blaka. It’s in a Chinese-built building, but inside you’ll find a truly Ivorian market experience, packed to the rafters with everything from unusual foods to exquisite antiques. BON APPETIT Don’t miss eating

at one of the many maquis dotted along the streets of Abidjan. Unique to the country, they’re a type of open-air restaurant serving simple but delicious braised chicken and fish dishes, cassava, and the ubiquitous Ivorian stew, kedjenou. On the opposite end of the scale is Aboussouan (Boulevard Giscard-D’Estaing), which takes these very same maquis dishes and perfects them into haute cuisine, pairing them with a selection of wine. Englishlanguage website abidjanito. com, provides comprehesive coverage of dining and nightlife. BED TIME Most good accommodation is found in the streets between the Musée National and the bottom tip of the Abidjan Plateau, where you’ll find the Novotel Abidjan (+225 20 31 80 00), which boasts an excellent view and all the business-traveller trappings. A more humble but no lesser stay is found at the Villa Anakao (Cocody Il Plateaux, +225 49 74 21 13), a boutique hotel with a handful of personalized rooms, with artwork handpicked by owner Caroline and her family. HIP TIP Take a break from the shopping and nightlife of Abidjan and explore Banco National Park and its stunning wildlife; its previously difficult trails have now been upgraded. Don’t forget your camera!

ACCRA GHANA

Ghana’s exceedingly welcoming capital marries a vibrant music and nightlife scene with a distinctive traditional culture. Add easy links to ecotourism hotspots, and you have yourself a spot-on holiday destination. A lot of attractions are contained between the Waterfront High Street and Makola Market. Other historically-relevant pockets include James Town, and Cape Coast Castle, the seat of British colonial administration from 1664—1877. www. touringghana.com posts up-to-theminute information. BUY Hone your bargaining skills at Makola Market on Kojo Thompson Road and The Centre for National Culture on 28th February Road. Both stock stunning

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ABUJA NIGERIA

Nigeria’s neatly planned capital boasts quite a few intriguing landmarks. Among them are the National Mosque, Zuma Rock, the Ecumenical Cathedral and the Arts and Culture area of Garki. Take in the view from Kpaduma Hills and find events listings at Gladng.org. BUY Bring on the bling at Wuse Market in Zone 5 which sells gold and bespoke jewellery along with stunning Nigerian fabrics. Pick up contemporary and traditional art at Life Strokes gallery (Life Strokes, , Dunes Center, 44 Aguiyi Ironsi Way, Maitama, 0803 304 3822) and Signature Gallery (Aminu Kano Crescent, Wuse II, 09 5233849). BON APPETIT Abuja has some of the best restaurants in the country. Find a comprehensive list of cuisine from around the world at www.gladng.org. There are a few family restaurants at Ceddi Plaza. If you’re only in town for a drop-in visit, try a taste of Nigeria at Jevinik (494 Bengui Road, off Adetokumbo Ademola Crescent, Wuse II). For upmarket dining, you can’t beat the choice of restaurants at the Transcorp Hilton. BED TIME The international

hotel chains are concentrated in Central Abuja. The Transcorp Hilton in the Maitama District houses 4 restaurants, a large shopping area and a casino. (Transcorp Hilton, www.hilton. co.uk/abuj, 234 (0) 9413 181 184). Bolingo Hotel & Towers on Independence Avenue is also excellent. Mid-priced hotels include Valencia Hotels (Valencia Hotels, Plot 799, Blantyre Street, Off Adetokunbo Ademola Crescent, Wuse II, 234 (0) 9 524 0669 70, 524 0644) and Savannah Suites Hotel & Resort (Savannah Suites Plot 1091, Faskari Street, Garki-Abuja, 234 (0) 9290 6119, 234. Mob: 234 (0) 804 211 6322). HIP TIP Come for the annual Abuja Carnival towards the end of November. Spend the daytime along the parade route and the night partying alongside the country’s celebrities at Tucano bar (23,Usuma Street, Maitama, Formally Congress Lounge Bar).

handicrafts and kente fabric. BON APPETIT Accra is home to varied cuisine. Discover the much-loved Buka, a casual, partly open-air rooftop, chop house (Buka, Osu R.E, adjacent to the American Embassy Visa Section. Tel 233 21 782 953). The nearby Osu Foodcourt on Cantonments Road and cafes on Labadi Beach are good for fuss-free family dining. BED TIME Budget hotels are concentrated between Adabraka, through Asylum Down and up to Kokomlemle Road. The Cavalry Methodist Guest House comes recommended (Cavalry Methodist Guest House, Barnes Road, opposite the National Museum, 021 234507). In the upper bracket, The Golden Tulip is good value with a free airport shuttle service (Golden Tulip, Liberation Road, 021 213161). Luxe it up beachside at La Palm Royal Beach

Hotel, 5km from the city centre and one of Accra’s most upmarket hotels. (La Palm Royal Beach, Pleasure Beach, 021 771700). HIP TIP Head out to one of Ghana’s national parks or craft villages. Kumasi is famous for its kente cloth loom-workers. Visit Ntonso for Adinkra cloth, Asuofia for bead-making, or Anpobame Krofron for brass.

WINGTIPS

ASABA NIGERIA

With vibrant neighbourhoods and a swath of the River Niger running through it, Asaba has a vibrant urban culture that is great for business and leisure. The city is ethnically diverse and mostly composed of Igbo speakers with Itsekiri, Urhobo, Isoko,

Ijaw, Hausa and Yoruba communities. Asaba is replete with cultural sites, the most popular of which are Asaba Beach, River Ethiope source, Kwale Game Reserve, Jamieson River, Chief Nana’s Palace Living History Museum, The Royal Palace Of The Obi (traditional ruler), Mungo Park House, and Escarvo Beach. Enjoy recreational fare at the Bombardi Beach Party Resort, Olona Ranch & Holiday Resort and Leisure Palace Amusement Park in Effurun. BUY Ogbeogonogo Market is the biggest street market in Asaba, located in the heart of the town within Oshimili south local government area. The market has over one thousand traders and attracts large crowds of daily customers. BON APETIT In addition to a variety of local cuisine on offer at street corners, eat

BANJUL

THE GAMBIA Often bypassed in favour of The Gambia’s seaside resorts less than an hour away, Banjul is an unlikely gem. Originally named ‘Bathurst’ after British colonial Henry Bathurst, Banjul was once a port used to hamper the slave trade after the Abolition Act of 1807. Today, the crumbling city on an island is a destination with a compelling national museum, an atmospheric old town and views across the Gambia River. Its manageable size is an added bonus. Discover the pleasure of Banjul with a leisurely stroll coupled with a flexible itinerary. BUY Barter and banter at Albert Market where aisles of shabby stalls burst with a treasure trove of quality souvenirs. BON APPETIT In contrast to the Atlantic coast which has a more varied selection, simple chop shops abound. Michel’s on 29 July 22 Drive, is one of the few

restaurants open from early morning until late at night. Afterwards, head to Queens Nightclub on Renee Blain Street. The slightly seedy late-night scene is made up for with sublime Gambian music. BED TIME A lot of the better hotels are on the coast though Carlton Hotel is a satisfactory city centre guesthouse (Tel 228670; fax 4227214, 25 July 22 Drive). On the top-end, try Atlantic Hotel (Tel +220 4228601/6, corinthiahotels. com; Muammar al Gadhafi Ave). The sprawling resort has all the amenities you would expect including a private beach, pool, gym and nightclub. Gambia. co.uk is one of the best sites for detailed holiday and accommodation information. HIP TIP Birdwatch from a pirogue along the mangroves of Oyster Creek. Most hotels organise pirogue trips, though you can also book independently at Denton Bridge, 3 km west of the city centre.

out at one of many city hotels and restaurants, including Larryville Hotel & Restaurant on Brigid’s road, and Dema Kitchen on Ezenel Avenue. BED TIME Place a reservation for a stay at the Grand Hotel (grandhotelnigeria. com/+234 8037584941) or enjoy the sedate atmosphere of the Amena Hotels & Resort (+234 056342646) in Oghara. Other accommodation spots are the Nelrose (+234 046300688) on Government House road and Wellington (+234 080550244) in Effurun, a little over a 10-minute car ride from the city centre. HIP TIP Festival season is between March and December. The more popular festivals that you might want to mark in your calendar are: Ulo (held in July), Aja (in August) and Iwaji (celebrated in September to mark the end of harvest).

BENIN NIGERIA

The Kingdom of Benin is still immersed in age-old traditions making it one of Nigeria’s most fascinating destinations. According to local lore the Bini people founded the empire in 1880 AD. Today’s reigning Oba is the spiritual leader of the people of Benin. Sights include The Oba’s Palace at King’s Square, and The Benin National Museum, which houses a large collection of bronze, brass and ivory treasures spanning five centuries and the ramparts of the Old City Wall, once the world’s second largest man-made structure after China’s Great Wall. BUY Purchase brass statues and witness the making of Benin brass heads at the shops along Igun Street or go for the full market experience at the Oba’s market. BON APPETIT New Benin Market, northeast of the city centre is home to great street

food and suya along with bars and shops that stay open late. Saidi Centre has one of the best restaurants with a Chinese, Lebanese and European menu. BED TIME Numerous hotels of varying standards are dotted around the ring road. Among these, the Constantial Hotel sets a high standard coupling wellappointed suites with internet access, a gym and pool (24–26 Airport/Ogba Road, opposite Benin Airport exit gate; +234 52-257-122, constantialhotel. com). Samsy Hotel on Adesuwa Road in GRA also comes recommended. HIP TIP Make a trip to Okumu Eco Resort, 35 km from the city centre. On tailored nature walks visitors can look out for over 200 species of birdlife, monkeys, civets and butterflies (okomuecoresort.com, Tel +234 808 468). Also, on the last Sunday of every month a Motocross race is held in the town and is often attended by Edo State’s governor. www.arikair.com

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CALABAR NIGERIA

COTONOU

REPUBLIC OF BENIN BEHOLD Many visitors use Cotonou as a starting point en route to Ouidah or Porto Novo however the city offers a number of points of interest such as the Italian neo-renaissance cathedral in the city centre. For cultural performances contact the Centre Culturel Francais located near the French Embassy on route de l’Aeroport (21 30 08 56) or the American Cultural Centre on Boulevard de la Marina (21 30 03 12). BUY The incredible Dantokpa market near the Boulevard Saint Michel spreads all the way to the lagoon. Inside, discover an enthralling fetish market selling dried, whole animals and voodoo apparatus. If you prefer handicrafts to whole dried goat, check out the Centre de Promotion de l’Artisanat on Boulevard St Michel. BON APPETIT Local cuisine consists of Beninois street food and a small but growing selection of international

restaurants. Chez Maman Benin near Cine Benin and Chez Clarisse are favourites. Le Petit Four on Boulevard Steinmetz is a charming art-deco coffee shop with Wi-Fi, pastries, pasta and oven-baked pizzas. After dinner head to So What! Off Boulevard Steinmetz for infectious live music (21 31 06 66). BED TIME Most accommodation is found in the Ancienne Pont area or Akpakpa rather than in the centre, including Benin Marina on Boulevard de Marina (21 30 01 00, www.benin-marina.com). Business travellers flock to Novotel Orisha on Boulevard de la Marina which has a large pool and high-end French restaurant (novotel.com, 21 30 41 77). HIP TIP VooDoo followers from around the world travel to the beautiful coastal town of Ouidah for the annual VooDoo festival in early January to receive blessings and participate in ceremonies. 60% of Benin’s population practice the religion.

BEHOLD Since the colonial era and crowning of King Archibong III by Queen Victoria in 1878, this 16th-century port city has been a popular holiday destination. Explore colonial architecture around Henshaw and Duke Town including the governor’s residence, Mary Slessor Residence and the Calabar Museum. Nature enthusiasts: spare the time to travel to Agbokim Waterfalls surrounded by lush green valleys and near to the Afi Wildlife Sanctuary, Refome Lake and Kwa Rapids. For wildlife, visit the Afi Mountain Drill Ranch (pandrillus.org) and Cercopan Primate Rehabilitation Centre (cercopan.org).

SENEGAL

Senegal’s capital is a frenetic study of contrasts, brimming with creativity. Take in the views with the Chi Chi Dakarois,

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HIP TIP Every December 26th, Calabar comes alive for a weeklong carnival featuring parties, parades and a load of fringe activities (calabarcarnival.org).

BUY Pick up textiles and handicrafts at Watt Market or delve in to a local experience at Marian Wet Market. BON APPETIT Food from Calabar is renowned. Sublime suya is served up at Bogobiri Corner. More formal diners can head to Freddy’s for Lebanese (Freddy’s, 90 Aketong Drive, 087/232 821). If you’re a fan of bars with kitsch names, have a post-prandial boogie around Nelson Mandela Street at La Luna, Paradise City and Tuxedo Junction.

from the roof of the Hotel Independence on Place de l’Independence. Stroll through the IFAN Museum on Place Soweto. Go for a beach dip at N’Gor or on private beaches such as at the Hotel Lagon 2 or Plage de la Voile d’Or. Better yet, catch a 20 minute ferry ride to the tranquil Île de Gorée. After sunning, pop a long dress over your bikini for a tour of Dakar Grand Mosque, styled after Casablanca’s Mohammed V Mosque.

DAKAR

BED TIME Recommended hotels include The Mirage (themiragecalabar.com, Plot 230, Mcc road Calabar, +234 80372 26046) and Transcorp Hotel at Murtala Mohammed Highway (+234 (0) 807 773 1111, transcorphotels.com). 25 km from the airport, Tinapa Business Resort offers a host of facilities and activities +234 87 232300, Tinapa.com.ng).

BUY Fill up on fruit and veg at Marche Sandaga, the city’s centreville market where you will also find unique souvenirs like briefcases made of recycled beer cans. 500m downhill from Sandaga, you’ll discover a former Mauritanian silversmiths’ yard, the Cour des Orfevres. BON APPETIT Dakar teems with world-class restaurants, bistros and cafes, though many are closed

on Sundays. Scrumptions Senegalese meals can be had at Keur N’Deye (821 4973; 68 Rue Vincens). Excellent, free listings magazines are available at hotel lobbies. BED TIME Hotel Lagon 2 is modelled on the interior of a ship and has views over the rocky cliffs as well as access to a private beach (www.lagon.sn, 338 89 25 25) The luxury Sofitel Teranga remains popular with business travellers (889 2200, Place de l’Indépendance) but for a boutique experience try Hotel Sokhamon (hotelsokhamon.com, 338 89 71 00). HIP TIP Discover unrivalled nightlife like Thiosanne, owned by Youssou N’Dour (Sicap rue 10, 338 24 60 46) or head to Just 4 U, a live music institution, serving authentic local fare (824 3250, just 4u@ sentoo.sn, Ave Cheikh Anta Diop).

WINGTIPS

DOUALA

CAMEROON Cameroon’s economic centre is a bustling port city known for business rather than tourism. In contrast to the capital Yaounde, visitor-worthy spots can mostly be covered within a few hours. Your best bet is to visit the cultural centres. Highly recommended is Doul’art (Place du Gouvernement, Bonanjo, + 237 33 433 259, doualart.org), a non-profit cultural centre and gallery opened in 1991. Artists work on the cultural and urban identity of Douala. BUY Find art, crafts and antiques at Marche des Fleurs (Street R1.221, DoualaBonapriso). Conveniently located on the main road from downtown towards the airport, it’s famous for Cameroonian wood products. There’s also a good souvenir market on Ahmadou Ahidjo Avenue.

ENUGU NIGERIA

The Igbo capital of Enugu has regained its vitality from its heydey when coal was discovered in the area. Enugu which means ‘top of the hill’ became the capital of the Eastern Region in the 1930s. The National Museum (58 Abakiliki Road) is open from 8am-4pm daily and features Igbo artefacts, textiles and weapons. BUY For an authentic experience, head to the city’s main market, Ogbete Market. Hanidcrafts, souvenirs and household goods are also available at the Artisan Market and New Market. BON APPETIT Station Road has a large selection of chop houses. BED TIME Nike Lake Resort has 200 air-conditioned rooms, a

BON APPETIT There’s an open-air drinking and dining culture in Douala so places to eat are not hard to come by. The city is also home to quality international cuisine. French restaurant, La Fourchette (Quartier AKWA, Rue entrée SHO plus et AXA, +237 99 92 64 66), is favoured by business visitors. Try local dishes, seafood and steak at La Cigale, in the Bonanjo neighbourhood, where you can also enjoy live music and a glass of South African wine. BED TIME Unlike in some West African cities, Douala’s hotels are mostly reasonably priced. Business hotels equipped with swimming pools and work facilities include the Akwa Palace (920, Boulevard de la Liberte, hotel-akwa-palace.com), as well as international chains such as Le Meridien (35 Avenue des Cocotiers, +237 3 343 5000, starwoodhotels.com) and the Ibis (Rue Pierre Loti, Bonanjo, (+237 334 25760, Ibis.com)

HIP TIP Tourists are advised to venture out. Nearby beaches include Limbe, 90kms from the city and Kribi, a popular beach two-hours drive from Douala. Further afield, wildlife lovers flock to Waza National Park and trekking in the Mandara Mountains.

restaurant, bar, pool and tennis courts (Nike Lake, 042 557 000, proteahotels.com). The nearby, and smaller Zodiac Hotel also has a good restaurant, a pool and satellite TV (042 457 900, 5 Rangers Ave, Independence Layout). Lucha Guesthouse caters to the budget traveller (042 253 795, Nweko Lane, off Ogidi Street).

Balmaya Arts & Cafe (32B Main Motor Rd, Congo Cross). BON APPETIT Aberdeen is home to many good restaurants. Dine on exemplary seafood and international cuisine at Alex’s Restaurant with a clear view over Man of War Bay (64 Cape Road, 23222 272957). There's a nightclub next door for night caps.

HIP TIP Visit the Holy Ghost Cathedral near Ogbete Market or catch a Sunday service and gain a sense of Enugu’s religious scene.

BED TIME Football fanatics should book the ‘Beckham Room’ at Hotel Barmoi named after their most famous hotel guest. The football star may have skipped town, however, the excellent amenities, pool and sea view remain (hotelbarmoi.com, 75C Cape Road, Aberdeen 232-22-234933). Budget travellers: check out Family Kingdom Resort on Lumley Beach Road which boasts – strangely but charmingly – extensive playgrounds and the wandering deer.

FREETOWN SIERRA LEONE

THE APHROLOUNGE

Enugu’s coolest lounge/hangout. Visit Aphrolounge Kitchen with Chef Stan for exquisite breakfast, Continental and African dishes. Bring your own bottle every Thursday night. Aphro-Jazz night on Sundays. Space for events rental: Weddings, Parties, Luncheons and more. 5/14 Cathedral Drive, Independence Layout, Enugu info@aphrolounge.com Phone 080 5418 6612, 070 6647 3825, 07054509700 Open 9am-Midnight weekdays Club nights Wednesday, Friday & Saturday www.aphrolounge.com

Despite recently emerging from a decade-long civil war, Freetown is blossoming rapidly. Enjoy the nightlife and beaches before the tourists rush in, in their droves. Take in the 500-year-old cotton tree, a symbol of freedom since former slaves settled the town in the 1800s. Thousands of bats fly out en masse at dusk. From here, hop to the Sierra Leone National Museum. Take in views of the city from Tower Hill, ocean views from Lumley Beach and Krio architecture around Pademba Road. BUY The Big Market on Wallace Johnson Street brims with bric-a-brac and traditional household goods. For a more streamlined selection check out

HIP TIP Sample Freetown’s ‘anything goes’ nightlife. Try Paddy’s Bar (Sir Samuel Lewis Road, 232 22 272 962). The club, which once entertained diamond dealers, UN troops and an exotic range of and sordid characters has a new lease of life, post-conflict. It now boasts a large dance floor, cheap drinks, seafront outside area, and great hip hop, West African and dance music to get you moving. www.arikair.com

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GOMBE NIGERIA

A confluence of economic activity, Gombe is positioned with Borno and Yobe to the north and east, Taraba and Adamawa to the south, and Bauchi to the west. Lying in the savannah lands of the Gongola River basin, Gombe has been a major agricultural centre since the railroad was built in 1963. The State boasts captivating hilly scenery, best seen by driving along the Filiya – KushiBurak-Bangunji road to places like Tula, a historical town with an old prison and mud hut housing. Gombe is predominantly Hausa-speaking with the Fulani in the centre and north and Tangale in the south. There are

BUY The traditional crafts of weaving and dyeing are common practise while modern textile manufacture began in the early ’70s. A tour of the markets and roadside stalls offer up endless colourful souvenirs. BON APPETIT There are chop houses as well as hotel dining options however a trip to Bauchi offers a more extensive range of eateries. BED TIME The Gombe Holiday Inn on New Market Road is a good bet (Tel +234 72 20295) or try the A.Y Guest House on Dukka Road for budget accommodation. HIP TIP Yankari National Park, a short trip from Gombe, is a stunning hidden gem for wildlife watchers and is probably Nigeria’s best national park. Late December to May are good months to watch birds, buffalo, baboons and elephants. The park has a safari truck that takes tours at 7.30am and 3.30pm daily or you can drive your own vehicle. Kip at the nearby Wikki Warm Springs Hotel (077 542174).

ILORIN NIGERIA

A sojourn to Alfa Alimi’s mosque would not go amiss if you are looking for some of the true local culture. Built in 1831, it is relatively undeveloped as a tourist destination but a beautiful example of the importance of Islam in the city and surrounding region. Further afield are the Owu Falls, the highest natural waterfall in Nigeria, and surrounded by lush rainforest. BUY Ilorin allegedly has the biggest traditional pottery workshop in Nigeria, so head to Okelele to find some great gifts for family and friends back home. Aso Oke textiles are also great traditional gifts from this area. You can find souvenirs at the Kwara State Council For Arts And Culture gallery. BON APPETIT If you’re looking for

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BUY Do your grocery shopping at the Agbowo Shopping Complex, opposite the University of Ibadan, in the city centre or the Big Treat Supermarket (+234 8 074 386 831) on Oluyole industrial estate. Local farmers and flea markets at Dugbe, Bodija and Mokola are also standout shopping spaces.

also numerous minority tribes each with their own language. The state has a population of over 2,300,000 and 11 separate administrative areas.

IBADAN NIGERIA

Ibadan is the largest city in Africa in terms of geographical mass; it was the former capital of Southwest Nigeria excluding Lagos, and currently the capital of Oyo State. Its historic significance in the affairs of the declining Oyo Empire have endowed it with a lot of places to see and its location at the edge of the Yoruba heartland makes it an ideal location for an exploration of the major Yoruba cities. There is charm in the old colonial city seen in the sprawling rusty rooftops of its downtown houses, tropical weather and varied geography. Your itinerary should include visits to one or more of the city’s iconic landmarks: Mapo Hill, Irefin Palace, IITA Forest, The University of Ibadan and its Zoological & Botanical Gardens, Cocoa House, the Bower Memorial Tower, and Old Oyo National Park.

Nigerian food, try the eba and okoro soup at the Royal Restaurant Ilorin (Ahmadu Bello Avenue GRA; +234 31 741 666), whose bakery also sells pastries. During the day, enjoy a light meal at competitive prices at the Brunch Café Ilorin (9B Ahmadu Bello Avenue GRA; +234 805 569 4022). The meat pie comes recommended. BEDTIME The Kwara Hotel (9A Ahmadu Bello Avenue PMB 1476; 031740836;), 3 km from the airport, is ideal for the business traveller and others who are used to comfort. Leave time between meetings for a stint in the squash court and a dip in the pool before heading out after the day is done to the in-hotel nightclub. Closer to town is the Kingstone Grand Suites (7 Ahman Pategi Road; 07031184505; 08076553519), where you can drink at the in-house bar before heading to the restaurant for African or Chinese (or both,

BON APETIT The most noteworthy spots in the city are the Golden Dragon Chinese Restaurant (Premier Hotel, Mokola/+234 8 051 222 640), Kokodome Restaurant (Cocoa House, Dugbe/+234 0 275 10918) and the popular Mama Ope (Mokola/+234 8 0 6969 6141) for good, home cooked traditional Nigerian meals. BED TIME Premier Hotel (+234 2 201 2345) is located on top of a hill in Mokola where visitors can see the city below. It offers a range of services and recreation facilities including a swimming pool, restaurant, bar, car park, and internet access. Other choice hotels are Kakanfo Inn (+2342 2 311 471) and D Rovans (+234 275 08128) . HIP TIP Be brave and jump on a bike for an urban adventure. A journey from one end of the city to the other costs around N100. Okadas (motorcycle taxis) are cheap and are available everywhere.

if you’re an adventurous eater). All rooms have air conditioning and satellite TV. HIP TIP Go to Shao for the colourful Awonga Festival. This fun-packed event is held every year in celebration of the River Awon, which is said to house a goddess who oversees the marriages of maidens during the festival.

WINGTIPS

JOHANNESBURG SOUTH AFRICA

South Africa’s beating heart is a dramatic metropolis and stage for the ups and downs of a fascinating country. A trip on a City Slicker bus, which you can hop on

and off at your leisure, will take you to major tourist attractions. Good places to hop off are Constitution Hill (constitutionhill.co.za) and Gold Reef City. In Ormonde you’ll find the illuminating Apartheid Museum (011 309 4700; www. apartheidmuseum.org), which is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 17:00. BUY The City Slicker buses go past major shopping centres like Eastgate Mall on Bradford Road in Bedfordview (eastgateshops.com). Wire-work and other township-produced crafts make great gifts. Held every Sunday in Rosebank Mall’s multilevel car park, the Rosebank Rooftop Market has a great range. Head to Sandton for upmarket shopping. BON APPETIT Jo'burg caters for all tastes. Recommendations can be found

JOS

NIGERIA The lush countryside surrounding Jos, especially the area around the plateau, is well worth a visit. In Jos itself, you’ll find an interesting exhibition on the pottery and artefacts of the central Nigerian people at the Jos National Museum, open daily from 8am to 5:30pm. A more unusual museum is the Museum of Traditional Nigerian Architecture, which houses impressive full-scale reproductions of the country’s monuments. BUY Most consumer goods can be found at Terminus Market on Bauchi Road or between Bauchi Road and Ahmadu Bello Way. Leather and basket-work crafts are sold in the shops on Museum St, the south end of Beach Road, and on Noad Avenue. BON APPETIT There isn't as large a selection of restaurants in Jos as in other cities. Bight of Benin (Zoo Garden Road) has a selection of well-cooked

at food24.com, a website that has an easily searchable database by cuisine and city, with customer reviews. BED TIME No matter what your price range is, you have your pick of hotels in Johannesburg, but try to stay in the northern suburbs as the city centre can be dangerous at night. Good listings can be found at johannesburg-venues.co.za, which you can search by suburb, type of hotel, and star rating and which has a clickable area map. Tripadvisor.com is also a highlyreputable source for unbiased recommendations. HIP TIP Want a good night out but trying to avoid the same old tourist traps? joeblog. co.za is a comprehensive daily look at what’s going on in Jo’burg.

authentic dishes and there are a smattering of Lebanese and Chinese restaurants. BED TIME Rooms at the Hill Station Hotel (Tudun Wada Road; 073 455 300) have air conditioning, satellite TV, and tranquil surroundings. There are several guesthouses, most of which are comfortable and equipped with wifi and other amenities. These include Les Rosiers (1 Resthouse Road; 0803 357 5233; lesrosiers.sampasite. com) and Elim Suites (elimtopsuites.com). Rooms are at a range of prices, but most are generally inexpensive. HIP TIP Interested in ethical shopping? You’ll be pleased to note there is a fairtrade craft shop run by the Alternative Trade Network of Nigeria (1 Museum Street; open from 8am to 5pm on Mondays to Fridays and on Saturdays from 10am to 5pm). Have a look at the goods on offer before you travel by going to fairtradenigeria.org.

KADUNA NIGERIA

The Kaduna National Museum (Alli Akilu Road) is open from 9am to 5pm every day. Of particular note is its Gallery Of Nigerian Prehistory, from Neolithic times, as well as the recreation of a Hausa village behind the museum. BUY Although most of Kaduna’s market (off Ahmadu Bello Way) is given over to consumer goods, you can also find gifts for friends and family. Good things to buy are textiles, leather goods and Kaduna pottery. BON APPETIT Sample traditional Northern Nigerian food at Food Palace (1 Alkali Road). For relaxing al fresco dining, head to Sou’s Place (2 Waziri Ibrahim Crescent; 0803

588 6404), where you can also knock back a few beers, a rarity in Kaduna. BED TIME If you’re used to your creature comforts, go to Mohammed Buhari Way, where the best hotels are located. The Command Guest House (Mohammed Buhari Way; 062 242 918; commandguesthouse@ yahoo.com), offers air conditioning, TV, and hot water. You can also take advantage of its snooker room, and tennis and squash courts. A good option for the budget traveller is The Duncan (6 Katsina Road; 062 240 947) which has a good restaurant. Some of the 20 rooms have air conditioning and TV. HIP TIP Artisans in the back of Kaduna National Museum produce beautiful handloomed cloth, metalwork and other crafts. These make for excellent gifts. www.arikair.com

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LAGOS

thepalmsshopping.com).

NIGERIA

KANO NIGERIA

Built in the 15th century and declared a national heritage site, the Gidan Makama Museum holds ethnographic and historic exhibits on the Kanawa Civilization and Hausa Land. The majestic Emir’s palace opposite the museum is also architecturally striking, but its interior is by invitation only. Also go to the Kofar Mata Communal Dye Pits, which are a relic of Kano’s skin dyeing trade and the oldest in Africa (1498!). BUY Go to Abubakar Rimi (Sabon Gari) Market for household items, jewellery and clothing. If you’re looking for gifts, Kurumi Market, founded in the 15th century, has brass, silver, stone and wood carvings, sculptures, and leather products. Textiles and fabric can be found at Kwari Market.

BON APPETIT Relaxing drinks can be had at the French Cafe (Race Course Road). Good places to go for Nigerian dishes and meals from the rest of the continent are Ten-O-Five (Post Office Road) and Pounded Yam & Co (Lodge Road). BED TIME Business travellers enjoy Tahir Guest Palace Hotel, which has in-room WiFi, conference facilities, and a travel agent (4 Ibrahim Nastsugune Road; 234 64 315281; tahirguestpalace.com). Set in a quieter part of the city, is the Prince Hotel, with a pool and a well-rated restaurant (1 Tamandu Road; 234 64 200601; princehotelng.com)

Succumb to the all-consuming rhythm of Africa’s largest metropolis and discover one of the world’s most multi-faceted cities brimming with cultural curiosities, and some of the best music, art and literature to be found anywhere. Exciting developments are effecting the megacity from droves of diaspora Nigerians returning home to a population bursting at the seams. Most of the best bars, restaurants, galleries, hotels and boutiques are on Victoria Island. BUY For souvenirs, visit Lekki Market or try Quintessence (Suite C6, Falomo Shopping Center, Awolowo Road, Ikoyi, quintessenceltd.com). Head to Palms Shopping Mall for restaurants, a supermarket and international brands (BIS Way, Lekki – Lagos, 234 1 27144913,

UNITED KINGDOM London is one of the world’s most multicultural and creative cities, home to 7.5 million people, with 300 languages

spoken and set against stunning historical architecture. Arm yourself with an A-to-Z map book available at most corner shops and an Oyster Card which allows you to travel easily on public transport. Take in the city from a double-decker bus and trawl free museums like the National Portrait Gallery, the British Museum, and Natural History Museum. Go for a night stroll along the South Bank or a whiz around the London Eye. Time Out London Online posts the day’s events in theatre, film, art, comedy, music and dining. BUY Swing by Oxford Street for Topshop, Selfridges, and Liberty. Vintage lovers love Portobello Market in Notting Hill (Fridays) and East London’s Brick Lane. BON APPETIT London is arguably the food capital of the world. It's impossible to

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BED TIME Eko Hotel & Suites is a self-contained expat hub (www. ekohotels.com, +234 1 262 4600 19). The Sofitel Lagos, in Ikoyi, is equally high-end (Bankole Oki Road, Ikoyi, +2341 4615 40922) as is The Federal Palace Hotel (26 Ahmadu Bello Way, Victoria Island, 1-262-3116). Of the boutique hotels Bogobiri Guesthouse is a favourite (9 Matatma Sule, Southwest Ikoyi, bogobirilagos.com , 270 7437). Another is Manuela’s Residence,

HIP TIP The annual Durbar Festival is a dazzling display of cultural and equestrian might held at the Emir’s palace to commemorate the Eid-el-Fitri and Eid-el-Kabir festivals.

LONDON

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BON APPETIT Lagos is home to an ever increasing number of good restaurants. Pick up a copy of Time Out Nigeria available at Quintessence gallery (see above) or check out www.lostinlagos. com for the latest listings and openings. If it’s authentic street food you’re looking for try the suya at Ikoyi Hotel Ikoyi Hotel, Kingsway Rd, Ikoyi).

choose our favourites. Search for unbiased reviews at www.london-eating.co.uk. Foodies adore Borough Market by London Bridge tube. BED TIME Visit www.laterooms.com and www.lastminute.com for bargains. Business travellers often choose the Hilton Paddington for its proximity to Central London and the Heathrow Express. HIP TIP London’s a big city. Simplify airport transfers to and from wherever you are staying (+44 207 701 4321, Simplyairports.co.uk) leaving you free to enjoy the best of each season. Welcome Spring at Regent’s Park and late Summer at the Notting Hill Carnival. In Autumn, climb Primrose Hill for bonfire night. Come Winter, ice skate at Somerset House.

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LUANDA ANGOLA

Perched on the Atlantic coast overlooking a narrow sandbar known colloquially as the Ilha, the hot oceanside setting of Angola’s capital city is a study in contrasts.

After decades of conflict, Luanda has seen a massive boom in construction where stability has attracted foreign investment in the city. The government is also investing heavily in and around Luanda, including in the construction of several six-lane highways leading out of the city; the reconstruction of railroad lines and a large new airport. BUY Get local crafts at reasonably low prices at Benfica Handicrafts Market just south of Luanda. Other shopping sites include Maianga Luanda (+244 924 091680) and Belas Shopping, Angola’s first shopping mall. It features nearly 100 different shops, a cinema, restaurants, and a central square for live entertainment.

Portuguese cuisine, visit Portugalia (222 309677) located on the coastal Ilha de Luanda or the more international Restaurante Bordao (Avenue Murtala Mohamed Luanda, Ilha/222 309028) where the hip flock in the evenings. BED TIME Four star guesthouse Rouxinol (+244 923 745 078/ +244 923 581 308, Beco de Moçambique no. 16, Bairro Cruzeiro), located near the embassies in Miramar is popular with foreign visitors. Rooms start at $180 per night. HIP TIP Wildlife park Kissama (also spelt Quiçama), situated 70km south of Luanda comprises a swathe of coastal savannah where elephants, water buffalo and sea turtles are easily accessible.

BON APPETIT If you’re in the mood for

Monrovia, both on the street and in restaurants, especially around Sinkor. Liberian chop shops are as close as you can get to home cooking here, and fortunately they are located on almost every street. The long-standing Golden Beach restaurant (Tubman Boulevard) serves fine food and, as its name suggests, is a great place to grab a cocktail and watch the sunset.

MONROVIA LIBERIA

There is an understandable lack of tourist traps in Monrovia – but all the better to see the local flavour. The National Museum (Broad Street, open every week except Sunday and Monday) is worth a visit. About threequarters of its collection of 6,000 artefacts were looted during the war, so it is both an example of and a chronicler of Liberia’s recent history. BUY Waterside Market (Mechlin Street) is definitely the place to go for souvenirs, especially beautiful textiles and intricatelymade handicrafts. The market is big and bustling, so it’s also a great place to people-watch. Be your own oasis with a cool drink as the frenetic atmosphere surges around you. BON APPÉTIT There is an extensive array of good food in

BED TIME Business travellers will find comfort at The Cape Hotel (Mamba Point; +231 77 006633; www.thecapehotel. com.lr), which offers internet and all other modern conveniences with a smile. The restaurant here comes particularly recommended. For comfy and affordable accommodation, the Mokos Bed and Breakfast (19th Street Payne Avenue; +231 11 23165 15897) is clean, homely, and very good value for money with TV, A/C, and internet included. By far the best thing about Mokos, though, is the good security and very friendly staff. HIP TIP Head to Robertsport (Robert’s Port), a small fishing village near the Sierra Leone border, for some great surfing. It is also the home of the Robertsport Community Works, which alongside its community outreach programs also offers eco-tourism, sea turtle rescue programmes and free yoga lessons.

NEW YORK

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Places to sight-see are a dozen-to-the-dime in NYC . Don’t miss views of the Statue of Liberty from the free Staten Island Ferry (1 718 727 2508; www.siferry.com) and the Empire State Building (1 212 736 3100; www.esbnyc.com) or get lost in artistic reveries at the Museum of Modern Art (1 212 708 9400; moma.org) For those who want to get off the well-worn track try the numerous walking tours available. Official tourist information can be found at nycgo.com. BUY New York is famous as a shopper’s paradise, and many flock to the big department stores like Macy’s (151 W 34th Street; macys.com), Barneys (660 Madison Avenue; barneys. com) and Bloomingdale’s (1000 Third Avenue; bloomingdales. com) for everything from designer duds to kitchenware. Children will never want to leave the giant toy paradise FAO Schwarz (767 Fifth Avenue; fao. com). For hip boutiques, go to the Lower East Side and Williamsburg. Looking for something to take back home? T-shirts and mugs emblazoned with the iconic ‘I Love NY’ logo make great souvenirs. BON APPETIT Order the pastrami on rye and recreate the “I’ll have what she’s having”

scene from When Harry Met Sally at Katz’s Deli (1 212 254 2246; katzdeli.com). You’ll be hard pressed to go a block without finding an amazing restaurant selling everything from bialys and bagels to Michelin-starred cuisine. Remember to tip well. Waiters earn much less than the minimum wage; 15 to 20 per cent of the bill is expected. BEDTIME You are spoiled for choice with New York’s luxury hotels, one of the most famous of which is The Plaza (1 -212 759 3000; 1 800 759 3000; Fairmont. com/theplaza). Rooms start at $595 a night, though, so for cheaper options try newyorkhotels.com. A notable one is the Pod Hotel (1 212 355 0300; thepodhotel.com), where for $89 dollars a night you can have clean rooms with iPod stations, free WiFi and LCD TV. HIP TIP Things move fast in NYC. Find up-to-date information at Newyork.timeout. com. For deals on tickets visit lastminute.com. www.arikair.com

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hotel restaurants and chain fast food like Crunchies on ITC Junction and Mr.Biggs on Okigwe Road. There is also a good choice of Nigerian eateries on Ekwena Crescent off Wetheral Road including Best Lady, Renny’s Place and DE Simeons.

OWERRI NIGERIA

The heart of Nigeria’s tropical Igboland and formerly the capital of the Republic of Biafra, the lush landscape of Owerri has a lot of natural and cultural attractions to lure visitors including outdoor activities around the Oguta Lake, hot springs, craft markets and ancient shrines. Reliable listings and updates can be found at www.imostate.gov.ng BUY Igbo arts and crafts are aplenty at Owerri’s Mbari Cultural Center, Eke Nguru in Aboh Mbaise and lgwekala Shrine in Umunoha. BON APPETIT You can rely on

BED TIME The city centre is home to an extensive range of accommodation, most located on or off Port Harcourt Road. Two of the better mid-range options are the East Gate Hotel (eastgatehotelowerri.com, Plot C, Ugwu-Orju Layout, + 234 083 233560, 305387) and the recently opened Rockview Hotel which also has branches in Abuja and Lagos (Rockviewhotels.com) If you’re into 80s maximalist decor and Russian roulette, the sprawling Imo Concorde Hotel and Casino, 30 minutes from the airport off Port Harcourt Road has 203 rooms, each with a balcony, a business centre, bustling nightclub, conference rooms, sports facilities and of course, a casino. HIP TIP Imo State plays host to vibrant festivals, dance performances and masquerades. To find one that coincides with your visit, see the following website: imostate. gov.ng/festivals.

PORT HARCOURT NIGERIA

If time and flexibility is limited, head to Port Harcourt’s State Museum at the bottom of Azikwe Rd for outstanding examples of objects from the area’s ethnic groups, including colourful masks and utensils. There are also a few small parks throughout town. Port Harcourt is known throughout Nigeria as ‘the garden city.’ BUY There are supermarkets on Azikwe Rd and two markets in the Old Township including the bustling Creek Rd Market. BON APPETIT For upmarket dining, eat at Ororo at Le Meridien Hotel. Hotel Presidential, on Aba Expressway houses Why Not Lebanese Restaurant, and 4,5,6 has some of the best Chinese in

SOKOTO

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www.arikair.com

BED TIME Hotel Presidential is the city’s oldest and very popular with foreign visitors (GRA Phase II, Aba Road, +234 (0)84-461 500, hotel-presidential.com). Le Meridien Ogeyi Place is possibly Nigeria’s most luxurious hotel. Each room has a jacuzzi and there is a pool, spa and meeting rooms (45 Tombia Street, GRA Phase II, Port Harcourt, +234 84 461 770). The Protea Hotel Garden City is another good business hotel (Km16 PH/Aba Expressway Port Harcourt, +234 84 465 700 proteahotels.com). HIP TIP The Old Township by the waterfront is a bustling hive of activity and the most atmospheric and interesting part of town although going with a guide or local resident is recommended.

is also a supermarket and Middle Eastern restaurant called Double 7 on Abdulahi Fodio Road. Don’t expect to find alcohol. Northern Nigeria is an Islamic region with strict restrictions on nightlife and alcohol consumption.

NIGERIA

Located in the extreme northwest of Nigeria, Sokoto is the seat of the Sokoto Caliphate, and home of the Sultan of Sokoto, regarded as a spiritual leader to many Nigerian Muslims. The proud and orderly town has a rich and colourful history. The Fulani are thought to have migrated there from Mali in the 13th century. In 1807, Usman Dan Fodio’s jihad led to the creation of the caliphate. Historical sites of interest include the Sultan’s Palace, Shehu Mosque and Bello Mosque on Sultan Bello Road. The Waziri Junaidu History & Culture Museum on Alli Akilu Road is also worth a visit. The colonial era room contains fascinating – and amusing – artefacts including a throne given to the Sultan by Queen Elizabeth with a carving of a naked boy on

town. Sopranos Bar (7 Abacha Rd, 0803 312 3878) is a local favourite for night caps.

BED TIME There are four or five hotels on and around Kano Rd. However service and amenities are not of a high standard. These include Giginya Hotel (060 231 262, Bypass Rd) and Shukura Hotel (060 230 006, 10 Kano Rd). it. The culturally insensitive chair had to be redesigned before the Sultan could sit on it. BUY Shopping is limited although roadside stalls sell a range of textiles and food. One would be better off ambling through Sokoto Central Market, an adventure in itself. BON APPETIT The Young Shall Grow bus terminal serves good Nigerian food. There

HIP TIP Time your journey to coincide with the legendary Argungu Fishing Festival, easily the world’s most visually explosive fishing event. Thousands of participants compete to catch fish in the Matan Fada River, diving in to wrestle the fish with their bare hands – some weighing upwards of 50 kilos. Fringe events include wrestling and a parade.

WINGTIPS

UYO

NIGERIA Satisfy your inner historian at the Uyo Museum (Wellington Bassey Way). Beach lovers can head to the Ibeno Beach, farther afield but worth the journey. Ask your concierge for directions on how to get there. BUY Akwa Ibom state is famous for its raffia creations, with everything from baskets to ties made out of the fibre – it’s evidently more versatile than most people think. Good souvenirs also include textiles from Uyo’s textile mill, and handicrafts, all of which you can find in the Akpan Andam Market or the Entrepreneurial Village. BON APPETIT Try the delicious afang soup, featuring smoked fish and shredded afang, and ekpang nkukwo, made from two types of yam and yam leaves. You can

get these and other dishes at the amusingly named Oliver Tweest (Dominic Utuk Avenue), which is also good for breakfast. Please, sir, can I have some more? BEDTIME Lovers of luxury will revel at the brand new Le Meridien Ibom (234 0 708 0660; Nwaniba Road PMB 1200). The resort offers everything you’d expect from the Starwood Group, along with a golf club and riverside marina. Those who want clean, comfortable surroundings but don’t want to empty their pockets too quickly should try the Tevo Hotel (+234 852 00694; 41 Udoh Street), which is cheap and cheerful. HIP TIP If you’re lucky, you can catch a show by the Ekemini Dance Group, which builds on Akwa Ibom State’s tradition of dance and drama. The group’s performers come from all ages and walks of life. Most performances are arranged around major events in the traditional calendar.

YOLA NIGERIA

WARRI NIGERIA

Warri is a predominantly Christian oil city in Delta State with a population that has increased rapidly since the oil boom in the 1960s. The city developed as a port during the late 1800s, when it became a centre for the palm oil trade and other major items such as rubber, cocoa, groundnuts, hides, and skins. Warri has a vibrant culture and kind people. A good way to spend a weekend is a visit to Abraka Beach, 30 minutes away from Warri by car. The beach is famous for its natural flowing spring water, and recreational facilities including canoeing, golf, fishing, and swimming. BUY Warri’s main market is an incredible site to behold. Weave your way through colourful vendors touting fruit, vegetables, ankara textiles and more. Uvwie Modern Market is also

worth a visit. BON APPETIT Most hotels have decent restaurants and there are a handfull of fast-food joints and Nigerian eateries on Effurun Rd. BED TIME Thanks to the number of oil companies operating in the area, there are a lot of hotels in the Effurun neighbourhood. Of the larger hotels, Hotel Excel (Refinery Rd, Effurun, www.hotel-excel.com) is quite professional. A step down but equally comfortable is the Godatin Hotel Number 2, Ayoro Lane, Off Enerhen Rd, www.godatinhotelslimited.com). HIP TIP Wetin you dey talk? Try learning a few phrases in Pidgin, the common language of Warri. Warri pidgin is famous throughout Nigeria for being expressive and authentic. Its superstrate is English with influences from dialects like Hausa, Yoruba and Igbo.

The capital of Adamawa State is a spacious town on the banks of the Benue. Formerly the capital of the Fulani State until the British arrived in 1901, the town is divided in to two parts, the old town and administrative centre, Jimeta. Yola is also home to the American University Of Nigeria. BUY Yola is an easily navigable town where most of what’s available is visible on the roadside including textiles, fruit and vegetables. BON APPETIT Choice is limited. The Pool Bar Restaurant on Garkida Road on the north side of Jimeta has a choices of dishes, a garden and cold drinks. Dreams on 13 Atiku Abubakar Road next to the police roundabout serves burgers, chicken and other fast food standards. BED TIME Located across the road from AUN and the new Federal Law School, AUN Hotel opened in 2012. It's wellmaintained, tastefully decorated and comprises a conference center and spa, (AUN Hotel, 228 Modibbo Adama Way, 0805 870 5555, www.aunhotel.com). While most hotels are located in

Jimeta, 5km north of the city centre. Jokems Airport View Hotel, (075 627127, jokemsairportviewhotel.com, 9 Gumti Rd, Kofare Industrial Area) is near the airport. HIP TIP 6700 square kilometres of mountainous forest and savannah land border Cameroon. The area is now Gashaka-Gumpti National Park, site of a major World Wildlife Fund project and home to chimps, lions, elephants, leopards and hartebeests. There is simple accomodation in Serti, a village on the Yola – Gembu road where rangers and vehicles are available to hire. The trip is not for those who like creature comforts, but adventurers will be rewarded with an experience to remember. www.arikair.com

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Machine price from GBP £15,500 Exclusive of freight and local taxes

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