Issue № 10 WINTER 2013 $12.00 U.S.
the
AMERICANA issue
EDITOR’S
Letter
I CONSIDER MYSELF a pretty senti-
mental person. But every winter, I get even more nostalgic than usual—thanks to the various holiday get-togethers, not to mention the ushering in of a new year. That nostalgia often manifests itself in an attraction to things that are timeworn and reminiscent of a bygone era—hence many of the people and places featured in this issue. When Meg Mateo Ilasco, the magazine’s creative director, and I were discussing how to best describe this aesthetic that we were gravitating toward, we kept coming back to: Americana. The word may conjure thoughts of baseball, apple pie, Mount Rushmore, hot dogs, or Old Glory. But Americana is obviously much more than pastimes, landmarks, and iconic foods. Since it can be interpreted so many different ways, we knew we weren’t going to be able to present a comprehensive picture of American culture in 124 pages. So we like to think of this issue as just a cross section—an assemblage of stories that resonate with our vision of Americana. In our “Conversation” (page 12), we sit down with a costume designer for Mad Men, a show that so perfectly captures 1960s Madison Avenue. In “Timeless Trades,” (page 60) we highlight the work of three businesses—a blacksmith, hat makers, and a denim designer—that adhere to artisanal practices.
While brainstorming the travel feature, we narrowed it down to a few history-laden destinations and ultimately decided on Philadelphia (“Our Philadelphia Story,” page 38), which offers a fantastic mix of old and new. This issue also features a stunning Wilson Eyre, Jr.-designed residence in a suburb of Philadelphia (“Collected Works,” page 82) that is filled with global treasures as well as American-inflected art. Elsewhere in the country, we showcase homes in California, upstate New York, coastal Maine, and Cape Cod. Warning: they may give you an overwhelming urge for a beach house or cabin. On the food front, it’s all about warmth and comfort. We’ve got a handful of skillet dishes for you to curl up with (“Well Cast,” page 32). And our entertaining story (“Group Participation,” page 107) is a collaborative effort—a Brooklyn celebration of good food, friendship, and music. The following pages illustrate how broad the notion of Americana can be. And yet, it’s still just a small slice of what’s out there between our coastlines.
Anh-Minh Le Editor in Chief
Contents Winter 2013
FEATURES
SEASIDE SANCTUARY
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HOMEWARD
IN EVERY ISSUE
WELL CAST
EDITOR’S LETTER
1
CONTRIBUTORS
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32
A former sea captain’s house on Cape Cod is the perfect getaway for a New Yorker and his friends.
These comforting skillet dishes will hit the spot, even on the coldest winter days.
OUR PHILADELPHIA STORY 38 The City of Brotherly Love boasts historic attractions, plus plenty of other reasons to visit.
A move to a woodsy enclave of Southern California proves to be life-changing.
COTTAGE INDUSTRY 72 In Northern California, a weekend retreat—complete with a bath shed!— embodies serenity and style. COLLECTED WORKS
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A Colonial-style home becomes the setting for its owners’ eclectic objects and art.
COAST TO COAST
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In Maine, a pair of California transplants settles into a simpler way of life.
TREASURE TROVE
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An upstate New York farmhouse showcases its inhabitant’s creativity and quirky collections.
GROUP PARTICIPATION
CABIN FEVER
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MAKING THE MAGAZINE SHOPKEEPERS’ PICKS MARKET REPORT
DIVERSIONS
ALL ABOARD
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The personal—a childhood modeltrain hobby—becomes professional for an Ohio native.
TIMELESS TRADES 60 Three artisanal businesses harken back to an earlier era, when handmade wares were the norm.
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CONVERSATION Janie Bryant
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SCREEN PLAY 18 RESOURCES
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BY THE BOOK
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PRIZED POSSESSION Rebecca Woolf 124
COASTING THROUGH LIFE’S UPS AND DOWNS 69 A writer recounts the significance of roller coasters in her nomadic upbringing.
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From the decor to the food and music, every guest contributes to this successful dinner party.
Cover Photograph by SETH SMOOT
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Seaside S A NC T UA RY
FOR A NEW YORK CITY DESIGNER, A CAPE COD RETREAT PROVIDES THE PERFECT SETTING FOR HIS TIMEWORN BELONGINGS AND FOR PLAYING HOST
Text by AMY ROSENBERG Photographs by SETH SMOOT Styling by KENDRA SMOOT
In artist John Derian’s 18th-century Provincetown retreat, crumbling elements are revered. Opposite: An early 19th-
century drop-leaf table in the dining room has been transformed into a ping-pong table, ready for guests to engage in a match.
This page and opposite: During the
summer, John operates a small shop out of what was once the garage; it is filled with enchanting ephemera, much like his house is. The entry of the latter is marked by a Peter Gee painting that depicts an artist’s palette.
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f you’re lucky enough to be a guest at designer John Derian’s weekend home in Provincetown, Massachusetts, you might find yourself hankering for a piece of the gorgeous, two-layer golden cake that sits, bedaubed with thick chocolate frosting, on an elegant Astier de Villate cake stand in his kitchen. Don’t fall for it. Though you’d never guess it from his quiet, understated manner, John is a self-described prankster; he bought the cake, made of rubber, at a flea market years ago. “It’s getting old,” he says. “It’s starting to crack and show its age.” But in that sense it fits right in with the rest of the house, which John purchased about five years ago. “I saw the house and there was just something about it that appealed to me,” he says. “I took a video, but it was just about to be sold, so I tried to put it out of my mind. But then my camera would just play the video out of the blue. I’d look at the camera, and it would just be playing it. It was eerie. I later found out that the sale hadn’t gone through, and I was able to buy it.”
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John’s decoupage plates— which share an aesthetic with the antiques he collects— often feature things found in nature, such as birds and blooms.
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house
Inside, the brims with antiques and curios.
Built in 1789, the home’s exterior consists of unpainted, weathered shingles and traditional white ones. It was renovated once in 1830 and again in 1900, with an addition tacked on each time, but the original structure remains as it was when its first sea-captain owner bought it. Inside, the house brims with antiques and curios— much like John’s apartment and two eponymous shops (johnderian.com) in New York’s East Village— and the walls display chipped paint and leftover strips from wallpaper that was hung in the 1930s. Yet somehow everything appears light, airy, and uncluttered. The lightness comes through as much in spirit as visually: John regularly has groups of friends join him at the house for weekends of dinner parties, excursions through nearby dunes, fast-paced bouts of Bananagrams, ping-pong matches, and boisterous rounds of charades. “I like to create fun,” he says, “and I like funny, unexpected things.” The cake is a prime example, but the house also holds other evidence
This page: After strip-
ping the bedrooms of their wallpaper, John has allowed the aged plaster surfaces to serve as a focal point.
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WELL Text and Recipes by ALEXIS BIRKMEYER Styling by ALEXIS BIRKMEYER and NANCY CHO Photographs by MARVIN ILASCO
CAST
COOKING WITH CAST IRON MAY EVOKE MEMORIES OF CAMPFIRES AND LOG CABINS, BUT AS A MODERN KITCHEN TOOL, ITS CHARACTERISTICS ARE HARD TO BEAT. THESE BEAUTIFUL PANS DESERVE TO BE IN THE SPOTLIGHT ON THE TABLE AS WELL AS IN THE KITCHEN. WE’VE PUT TOGETHER FIVE RECIPES ADAPTED FOR A VARIETY OF SKILLETS THAT WILL WARM UP YOUR WINTER REPERTOIRE.
SHEPHERD'S PIE Serves 6 Special equipment: 1 10"-round skillet 2 ½ lbs red potatoes, skin on, cleaned and quartered ½ lbs parsnips, peeled and chopped half the size of quartered potatoes 5 ½ tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste 2 tbsp butter 4 tbsp flour 1 lb chuck roast, trimmed and cut into ¾" cubes 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 medium onion, diced 3 large carrots, peeled and diced 2 stalks celery, diced
2 tbsp tomato paste ½ cup dry red wine 1 bay leaf 2 bunches fresh thyme (about 10 sprigs) 24 oz beef stock ½ cup milk ½ tsp freshly ground pepper, plus more to taste
1. In a stockpot, cover potatoes and parsnips with cold water and 1 tbsp salt, and bring to boil over mediumhigh heat. Cook until the potatoes are tender, then drain, return to pan, add butter and cover. 2. While the potatoes are cooking, combine 2 tbsp flour and 1 tsp salt in a medium bowl. Add cubed roast and toss to coat all the pieces evenly. 3. In the skillet you’ll bake the pie in, heat 1 tbsp oil over medium high heat. Add the flour-coated roast and cook for 2-3 minutes on each side until browned. Remove and set aside, then return pan to heat.
4. Add 1 tbsp oil to the skillet. Add onion and cook until translucent, then add carrots and celery. Continue cooking until the vegetables are tender and starting to color, another 5-7 minutes. Add remaining 2 tbsp flour and stir to coat vegetables, then add tomato paste to the pan and stir continually until it starts to darken slightly, another 2-3 minutes. Add red wine to pan and stir while bringing to a simmer. 5. Add bay leaf, thyme, and stock to the pan and stir to combine. Add the roast back into the pan and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the roast is tender. 6. While the filling is simmering, preheat the oven to 400°F. Add milk, 1½ tsp salt, and ½ tsp pepper to the potatoes and mash with a potato masher or electric mixer, leaving the texture somewhat coarse. 7. Once the roast filling is done, taste and adjust with salt and pepper as needed. Top with the potatoes, starting with tablespoonfuls around the perimeter of the pan, working toward the middle. Make sure the potato layer is continuous or the filling will bubble up through any gaps. 8. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until the potatoes are just starting to turn golden. Serve immediately.
WILTED SPINACH SALAD WITH BACON AND EGGS Serves 4 Special equipment: 1 10"-round skillet 3 slices bacon 2 medium shallots, thinly sliced 1 tbsp whole grain mustard 1 tbsp sugar 4 tbsp red wine vinegar 3 large eggs, hard boiled 10 oz baby spinach
1. In a 10"-round skillet, render bacon over medium heat until crisp. Remove bacon and set aside. Reserve bacon drippings. 2. Return pan to medium heat and add about 1 ½ tsp bacon drippings back to pan. Add sliced shallots and cook until
soft and translucent, stirring occasionally, about 5-7 minutes. Leave the shallots in the pan and allow the pan to cool slightly, no more than 5 minutes. 3. While the pan is cooling, combine mustard, sugar, vinegar, and the cooked yolks of the 3 hard-boiled eggs. (You can discard the egg whites, or serve them alongside the salad.) Blend with an immersion blender or in a food processor until smooth. 4. Add another 1 ½ tsp bacon drippings to the warm pan with the shallots. Add the spinach and toss to coat with drippings and distribute the shallots. Add about half of the dressing to the pan, and toss again. Top with reserved bacon broken into small pieces and another drizzle of dressing and serve immediately in the pan, with additional dressing on the side.
CARAMELIZED ONION SPOONBREAD WITH SAGE AND GOUDA Serves 6 as a side dish Special equipment: 1 10"-round skillet ½ cup cornmeal 1 ½ tbsp butter 1 medium onion, quartered and thinly sliced 15 sage leaves, thinly sliced (about ¼ cup) 2 cups whole milk ½ tsp salt ½ tsp baking powder 4 large eggs, separated 3 ½ oz shredded mild gouda (about 1 cup), e.g., Beemster Red
1. Put cornmeal in a 10"-round cast-iron skillet and place in oven. Set oven to 400°F to preheat and toast cornmeal. Check cornmeal every 2-3 minutes until it just starts to toast and turn light brown, about 10 minutes, then remove pan and set cornmeal aside. 2. While the oven is preheating, place a medium saucepan over medium heat and add butter. Add onions and stir occasionally until the onions start to caramelize, about 12 minutes. Add sage leaves and continue to cook another 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove onions and sage and set aside. 3. Return saucepan to medium-high heat and add milk. Slowly whisk toasted cornmeal into the milk and cook until the mixture is thick and bubbly. Allow to simmer for about 1 minute, then remove from heat. Stir in onions and sage, salt, and baking powder. Cover and set aside.
4. Separate eggs, with whites in a large bowl and yolks in a medium bowl. With a mixer on high, beat egg whites until they are fluffy and hold stiff peaks. Then beat yolks for about 15 seconds until smooth. With the mixer at a low speed, carefully add a tablespoonful of the hot cornmeal mixture to the egg yolks and mix to combine. Repeat 3 more times. Then with a spatula or spoon, stir the egg yolk mixture into the cornmeal mixture until smooth. 5. Add the cornmeal mixture to the bowl of egg whites and sprinkle with shredded cheese. Carefully fold the mixture together until just combined. Streaks of egg whites are fine; be careful not to over mix the batter. 6. Pour batter into cast-iron skillet and bake for 30-35 minutes until well browned on top and set in center. Serve immediately.
OUR
Philadelphia FEW DESTINATIONS EMBODY AMERICANA AS MUCH AS PENNSYLVANIA’S LARGEST CITY; ITS STORIED PAST IS RIVALED BY ITS PRESENT-DAY CHARMS
STORY
Text by ANH-MINH LE Photographs by COURTNEY APPLE Illustration by GRACE LEE
Federal Donuts’ original outpost in South Philadelphia serves up its assortment of fried chicken and donuts daily—until they sell out (which isn’t that unusual).
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THE FIRST TIME I VISITED PHILADELPHIA was during my sophomore year in high school, when I went as part of a civic education program. I remember selling quite a few lollipops to fundraise for that pilgrimage, and somewhere in my parents’ garage there still sits a Liberty Bell snow globe that I brought back as a souvenir. Since that inaugural visit, I’ve returned several times, most recently as part of an Antholog y field trip of sorts—albeit a rather far one from our home base in the San Francisco Bay Area. The magazine’s creative director, Meg Mateo Ilasco, and assistant editor, Alexis Birkmeyer, were also along for the ride. We had a vague itinerary—including some of Philly’s greatest historical hits—but were also keen to pick up recommendations from locals. (It turns out a lot of those recommendations would revolve around eating.) Immediately upon arriving in The City of Brotherly Love, we couldn’t help but notice how many businesses and buildings bear Benjamin Franklin’s name. Which makes sense, considering that this is where the founding father established himself as quite the Renaissance man: he was the publisher of the Pennsylvania Gazette and Poor Richard’s Almanack, helped organize the Philadelphia Militia, served as the city’s postmaster, and was elected to the Continental Congress. And then there are his myriad inventions, including bifocals, the lightning rod, odometer, a furnace stove (known as the Franklin stove), glass armonica, and swim fins (which attached to one’s hands, as opposed to the contemporary versions that are worn on the feet). The Benjamin Franklin Parkway is the local version of the Champs-Élysées. Along the main thoroughfare, or just off of it, are attractions such as the Philadelphia Museum of Art, perhaps known for its “Rocky Steps” (made famous by the Sylvester Stallone flick) as much as its expansive collection; the Rodin Museum, which reopened last summer after a three-year, $9 43
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Above and below: The
Rittenhouse Square area is filled with retail, food, and drink establishments. Franklin Square Boutique in the Old City neighborhood stocks new and vintage fashions. Opposite: The sights of
the city, including Robert Indiana’s Love sculpture in JFK Plaza; Elfreth’s Alley; and Anthology staffers in Rittenhouse Square Park.
“I LOVE THE BLEND OF THE HISTORICAL AND OF-THEMOMENT.”
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This page: Meg Mateo
Ilasco and Anh-Minh Le sample the fare at Federal Donuts, while chef Zach Engel preps more chicken.
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million makeover; the central branch of the city’s public library system, called the Free Library; the Academy of Natural Sciences, which dates back to 1812 and contains over 17 million specimens; the Franklin Institute, one of the first hands-on science museums in the country; and the Barnes Foundation’s Philadelphia location, which opened last May and highlights the late physician Albert C. Barnes’ amazing personal art acquisitions. Of course, no tour of Philadelphia would be complete without a visit to the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall. (It was at the latter that our founding fathers signed the Declaration of Independence in 1776.) Both landmarks are part of the Independence National Historical Park, which includes dozens of other early American sites. Indeed, this is a city that prides itself on having the first or oldest American establishments, like the oldest hospital (The Pennsylvania Hospital, founded in 1751 by Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Bond), oldest ice cream maker (Bas-
setts Ice Cream, 1861), and the first zoo (Philadelphia Zoo, 1874). Okay, now about all of that eating that I previously mentioned. Sure, Philadelphia is famous for its cheesesteaks and soft pretzels. But two other food items beckoned Meg, Alexis, and me during our first full day in Philly: donuts and fried chicken. Prior to our trip, we had asked around for suggestions and most folks placed Federal Donuts high on the must-visit list. The donut menu usually consists of three flavors that are served hot, fresh from the fryer, all day. Then there are an additional six or so ever-changing “fancy” options. “The flavors are based on things that I want to replicate,” explains chef Zach Engel. For example, the strawberry-rhubarb pie donut harkens to his grandmother’s recipe for the dessert. The chocolate-covered banana was developed after Zach watched an episode of Arrested Development, which featured a frozen banana stand. Federal also has a number of choices for the fried chicken, but it all starts
out the same. The pieces are coated in a cornstarch-based Korean-style batter, twice-fried, and then glazed or dry-seasoned. Of the four we sampled, there was a clear winner: the coconutcurry. The crunchy, flavorful coating perfectly counterbalanced the juicy, tender chicken. Zach previously worked at Zahav, a contemporary Israeli restaurant in Society Hill; since we loved his creations at Federal Donuts, we decided to go to Zahav later that evening for dinner. Ordering the tasting menu allowed us to try plenty of dishes— including the amazing Turkish hummus, fried cauliflower, and stuffed eggplant. The pièce de résistance, however, was the lamb shoulder that was larger than my head; all of our jaws dropped when it came to the table. The glossy hunk of meat is marinated for three days, smoked, and then braised in pomegranate juice and chickpeas. Somehow, we still managed to indulge in five desserts, the highlights of which were the rugelach and kataifi. Of course, we couldn’t leave Philadelphia without partaking of its signature fare. My husband, Jon, went to college in the Philadelphia area, so for years I’ve heard about Pat’s and Geno’s—the very popular cheesesteak outposts that are across the street from each other. During the Antholog y trip, I finally had a chance to taste-test both. Pat’s rated higher with us, in part because the cheese was better integrated with the steak and, thus, more flavorful. After I informed Jon that we had visited the two, one right after the other, he suggested we complete the trifecta by heading to Jim’s. No, thank you. Our stomachs couldn’t handle another cheesy, meaty bite that day. (A local suggested we try the cheesesteak at By George! in the Reading Terminal Market, but we didn’t make it there either.)
Clockwise from top left:
The Washington Square restaurant Talula’s Garden. Alexis Birkmeyer orders a cheesesteak at Pat’s. A fellow diner at the famous eatery.
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Cot tage Industry A photo stylist and his partner reinvent a humble weekend retreat and make it their own—without the scrutiny of cameras and art directors YOU MIGHT CALL San Francisco-based
An antique map of San Francisco and decoupage plate by John Derian grace a bedroom wall. Opposite: At his charming
cottage in Santa Rosa, Glenn Jenkins can escape the hustle (and fog) of nearby San Francisco.
photo stylist Glenn Jenkins (glennjenkins.com), founder of a Charmed Life Design Studio, a composer. After all, he makes the pages of Williams-Sonoma and Banana Republic catalogs come to life with his artful composition of rare objects culled from the Alameda flea market and go-to sources such as Mill Valley’s Summer House and the San Francisco Flower Mart. “I’m always looking for stuff for shoots, so it kind of never stops,” admits the Massachusetts College of Art graduate whose long history of styling experience includes working as a visual stylist at Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s, a photo stylist for Smith & Hawken and The Gardener’s Eden, and even odd jobs plucking wildflowers off the side of the highway in the middle of the night for a floral shop in SoHo and decorating shopping malls on Long Island for the holidays. “We used to decorate Snoopy houses and create these horrifying Christmas displays, but I kind of did it in desperation to pay the rent,” laughs Glenn, who moved to San Francisco in 1989 after an initial visit from the East Coast. When it came time in 2008 to find the perfect weekend retreat for himself and his partner Steuart Gold—who spend most of the week in the Bayview District house where they have lived for 11 years—
Text by JENNIE NUNN Photographs by ALEC HEMER
they wanted something far enough away from the city, but not too far. The couple’s non-negotiables were heat and a real summer sans the fog. “We wanted a contrast to our place in the city—an open floor plan and a backyard for entertaining that we didn’t have to climb down two flights of stairs to use. But we didn’t want to drive more than about an hour from the Golden Gate Bridge to get to and from our jobs in San Francisco,” says Glenn, who worked with a realtor and finally settled on a two-bedroom, one-bath 1940s-style cottage in a quiet, tree-lined neighborhood in Santa Rosa. At the time, the 825-square-foot home was set on two-thirds of an acre with a large backyard housing a dozen resident
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This page: The house is filled
with found artifacts, often with a New England bent. The Stewart Penguin print in the dining room is by French textile artist Paule Marrot.
The kitchen is a medley of materials—including concrete countertops, reclaimed wood floors, and handmade Mexican backsplash tiles. The custom Ikea kitchen cabinets were painted in Benjamin Moore’s Wythe Blue.
“Designing the house is kind of an extension of who I am without an art director telling me I can’t do it.”
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“We wanted a contrast to our place in the city.”
In the living room, the Hans Wegner-style rope chair belongs to a friend. “I hope she doesn’t ask for it back,” Glenn confesses.
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wild turkeys and almond, apple, fig, and nectarine trees that needed a little extra care. “When I first saw it, it was painted butter yellow, and the interior looked like a flooring showroom. Every room had a different bamboo floor, and it wasn’t in a style we could appreciate. It also had low, eight-foot ceilings, and the walls were each painted a different, bright color. But it was still cute compared to what we had seen, and it was only two minutes from Highway 101.” The duo knew they had a lengthy process ahead to give the house their own stamp (think refurbishing floors, raising ceilings, and adding a bath shed, back patio, greenhouse, and furnishings representing a compilation of old and new). “Luckily, Steuart and I share the same aesthetic, so there’s no real clash,” says Glenn of the three-yearlong transformation. “For me, designing the house is kind of an extension of who I am without an art director telling me I can’t do it, and it’s also the first real garden that I’ve designed that isn’t for a photo shoot, so it’s exciting and fun.” As luck would have it, the couple’s nextdoor neighbor, David McGillicuddy, happened to be a contractor. “We just hit it off, and I would tell him my ideas and we would work on sketches together and then he would run with it,” says Glenn. “He said ‘I love the commute’—a hole in the fence between our two properties. But the house definitely wouldn’t look like this without him.” First, they removed the existing low ceilings, adding two-and-a-half feet of height. And they opened up the common areas by removing the walls between the kitchen, dining room, and living room. Using remnant wood David had on hand and reclaimed wood from a hops warehouse in Washington,
The master bedroom’s handmade wood headboard runs the length of a wall. Below: In the office, the
swan/bull’s-eye art is by Bill Samios.
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French doors in the master bedroom lead to a small deck and the bath shed, which was built to accommodate a salvaged claw-foot tub.
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