A Big Chunk Of Land

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72 째 40째 A BIG CHUNK OF LAND



A publication on the country of Greenland by Amy Lesko

@LetsGoAmyLesko

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@rooobar

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LOST?


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Fur, feathers and flippers

A big chunk of land

30

The National Park

10

Nuuk

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12

10 things everyone knows in Nuuk

36

Arctic vampires

14

Disko Bay

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Midnight sun

17

Qaanaaq

39

Polar nights

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Pretty postcards

40

Grub from Greenland

21

Express yourself

44

Pack your bags!

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Not just blocks of ice

46

Thank you

04

Lost?

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5

Whale, whale, whale.. What do we have here?


A BIG C HUNK OF LAND.

I

t is pretty big isn’t it? Most people forget that this massive land mass exists. It’s smack bang in the middle of our maps and we just forget it’s there. Crazy! Greenland or “Kalaallit Nunaat” as it’s known by its native name is situated right near the North Pole. It’s neighbors being the Canadian Arctic Archipelago

Map size based on the Mercator projection

and Iceland. Greenland is the world’s largest island with over three-quarters of it covered in ice. It is also part of the Kingdom of Denmark and has been since 1814. Over 56,000 people call this place home, meaning it is the least densely populated country on the planet. ❄


How BIG is this place? 2,166,086 km2 to be exact (You can fit around 12 United Kingdoms into it!)

ICELAND Greenland’s little sister. NUUK The country’s capital city. Around 16,000 Greenlanders live here.


QAANAAQ One of the northernmost towns in the world. A mere 656 people live here.

NORTH GREENLAND The summers midnight sun and the winters polar nights prevail this area. UNESCO have this beautiful place on their ‘World Heritage Sites’ list, and it’s not hard to see why.

THE

ARC

TIC

CIR

CLE

DISKO BAY North Greenland’s gem when it comes to wildlife and diverse landscapes

DESTINATION ARCTIC CIRCLE This region is one for adventure, it’s rough and frozen climate are what bring in tourists from all round. NUUK

THE CAPITAL REGION Nuuk is at the center of this small arctic metropolis. From shopping and Thai restaurants to whale watching and breathtaking views this area is a hub of diversity.


NORTHEAST GREENLAND NATIONAL PARK Greenland is home to the worlds largest national park. It was established in 1974 and serves to protect many species of arctic plants and animals. It is larger than all but 30 country’s in the world.

“THE LAND OF GREAT STRENGTH” ITTOQQORTOORMIIT

Greenland’s most isolated town

EAST GREENLAND A land dominated by ice caps, East Greenland is one of the more remote places in the country. The people here speak a very different dialect and have strong connections to their roots. TASIILAQ East Greenland’s largest town. During the summer this town comes alive, green hills can be seen for miles on end as the ice melts away.


NUUK. “GODTHÅB” One of the most rural yet divergent cities on the planet. Greenland’s capital. 690 kilometers squared. Mail? Its postcode is 3900.


There really is more than one may think. You’ll be pleasantly surprised.

NUUK CATHEDRAL Established in 1849, this wooden building is a prominent part of the Nuuk landscape. It is to be found in the Old Nuuk neighborhood.

BLOK P ‘Blok P’ was once home to 1% of Greenland’s population, up until 2012 where it was demolished. This made it the largest residential building in Greenland. The Greenlandic flag was a huge feature on the Northern wall. The structure was a visual monstrosity, causing an eyesore on the landscape,. Thank heavens it’s gone. KATUAQ Nuuk’s cultural center. It is used for concerts, exhibitions, conferences, and as a cinema. A modern twist in this almost untouched land.


10 THINGS EVERYONE KNOWS IN NUUK. The things everybody presumes everyone else knows around here, or not. Words by Tanny at ‘The Fourth Continent’ “PLEASE DON’T DO THAT!” my friend asked me nicely (but firmly). Sometime during the Summer, I mentioned that it would be a fabulous idea to go for a swim at Cirkussoen, which is the drinking water lake in Qinngorput. Apparently, you’re not supposed to. Maybe common sense tells you that. All I could imagine was how refreshingly crisp it might be to drench myself in the cool water. The next time I went there I saw there was a sign that read “Please don’t pollute the water”. (which I guess also included no swimming!). Evidently others had also missed the sign, since a few people of all ages were happily splashing away in the water.

1. 2.

Don’t go swimming in Cirkussoen! For the reasons above.

Like you’re supposed to know that you don’t have a choice.

I made the rookie mistake of asking which phone company I should go with. And which internet company gave the best options for broadband. The answer was Tele…. and Tele. Yep, for people who hate to make decisions, life is easy in Greenland!

3.

There’s only one flight per day from Copenhagen to Nuuk.

When J was offered his job, they agreed upon starting on Valentines Day, which meant that they also booked his flight to Greenland for that day. Many weeks went by and there was no information provided about flight details – no confirmation

That made me start thinking about the things everybody presumed everyone else knew around here.

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“This pool is the only one available in the city and it was designed at a time when Greenlanders didn’t really know how to swim”

number, or email about times. Very confused, he finally asked his boss two days before he flew. We found out then that if you fly from Copenhagen to Nuuk, there is only one indirect flight per day. There is no need to ask what time the flight will take off! This makes sense if you’ve done this trip before – but of course, how are you supposed to know this if you’re new?

4.

You can’t buy alcohol after 1pm on Saturday, or at all on a Sunday.

This is a newbie mistake everyone makes. Just remember, if you want to buy it for the weekend, buy it in on Saturday morning. Otherwise, there are places you can buy it illegally. Ask a taxi driver, they know it all.

5.

You’re supposed to know where everything is… without an address.

People who have been here awhile tend to forget that some people don’t know anything. If you ask where something is, most people won’t know the street the place is located. Instead they will describe the location, and then say it’s next to so-and-so landmark. For example, it’s by the red row of houses behind the green house.

6.

The bus ticket expires after 1.5 hours.

9.

In the only swimming pool in Nuuk, kids rule.

It doesn’t actually say that on the ticket, but it does on an information sheet. Just a useful tip.

If you thought that you wanted to go swimming for exercise, think again. The swimming pool is open to the general public at seemingly random times. If you remember these times you’ll have to contend with the kids who play everywhere. There are no designated lap lanes. This pool is the only one available in the city and it was designed at a time when Greenlanders didn’t really know how to swim.

Maik’s corner!

This is a landmark that everyone uses in directions. Maik by the way is a hairdresser slash apartment rental dude slash the founder of Greenland Ice (cream). And his hairdressing parlor is located ….shouldn’t you already know?

7.

8.

If you’re unhappy with someone, you’re not supposed to express your actual ideas in public!

10.

You think this weather is bad? Wait, there’s more…

Hurricane-level storms brew in Greenland and when that happens it means all public transport stops. When it gets worse, normal life halts. However, if you mention the bad weather to a local, don’t expect them to be impressed. They’ll tell you “This is nothing! In East Greenland, they have pitarak!”, a mad wind that can blow full containers away. ❄

To some extent there is a high level of selfcensorship in Greenland. This is because Greenlanders are afraid that they will insult you when they insult your cousin, or uncle, or brother that they didn’t know you were related to.

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DISKO BAY.

“QEQERTARSUUP TUNUA”

R

eady to get this party started?! Disko Bugt or Disko bay as its more commonly known is a wild blowout. Full of spectacular scenery and underwater creatures Disko Bay is the top destination for anyone wanting to observe Mother Natures handy work. It is located in West Greenland.

With a population of 4,541 it makes this charming town the third largest in Greenland.

The town of Ilulissat (Ilulissat meaning ‘icebergs’) is located right at the heart of this frozen wonderland. The UNESCO World Heritage Site; the Ilulissat Icefjord, is found just south of the area which brings in tourists from near and far.

Whales dominate below the waves around Disko Bay, with Belugas, Narwhals, Minke and Bowhead to name just a few. They can be seen peeping their fins from the depths, greeting whale watchers and mushers alike. ❄

Dog sledding is a way of life for the people of Ilulissat. There are around 3500 sled dogs resulting in almost as many dogs to people in the town and its surrounding villages.

The Bowhead whale, often seen around the waters of Qeqertarsuaq in the spring months.


QEQERTARSUAQ

Remember that famous iceberg that sunk the Titanic? It was most likely born in Ilulissat.

DISKO ISLAND

ILULISSAT

QASIGIANNGUIT AASIAAT

KANGAATSIAQ


NEPHRITE is the perfect material for the Harpoons endblade.

HARPOON This spear like device is used for catching whales and seals. The Qaanaaq people use whalebone to create the body of the weapon.

BIRDSPEAR Usually made of ivory, these sharp, precise weapons can snag a bird from the air in seconds. Ducks and geese are common catches.

KUDLIK Kudlik’s are a type of oil lamp made from carved soapstone. They light up the hunters homes when polar nights are under way.

KAYAK As soon as the ice melts, these wooden crafts are in the water. The Inuit people use the kayaks to catch seals and other water going mammals. ULU “Ulu” translating to womans knife, is a sharp blade utilized by hunter women. It is used for skinning animals to cutting the children’s hair.


QAANAAQ. Welcome to one of the northernmost towns in the world! Qaanaaq (formerly named ‘Thule’) and its five settlements has a tiny population of 656 inhabitants. This small town has been the gateway to Greenland for hundreds of years as it is only 30 kilometers from the tip of Canada.

Hunting seals, narwhals and polar bears are a vital way of life in this tough terrain. Methods of tracking and capturing prey have been passed down through generations. Without hunting, these small communities would not last. It is their preliminary way of survival in this hardy part of the world. Sea mammal hunting and fishing remains the main occupation of the Qaanaaq area.

The people here are run by the Midnight Sun and Polar Nights. The Midnight Sun lasts from the middle of April to the end of August, meaning that it is light for 24 hours a day in this period. The Polar Night begins in October with the sun not appearing again until the following February.

There is no such thing as waste this far north; the skins from the catch are used for clothing and covering the kayaks. The flesh and offal are eaten by humans and domestic animals. Narwhal and walrus tusks are carved into finelyworked figures, jewelery and hunting implements and even feathers can be used in handicrafts. ❄

Average temp (Jan) -24’c 77°28’00”N 69°13’50”W Mail? It’s postcode is 3971 17


PRETTY POSTCARDS. Cut-out and pop in the post (or keep for yourself!)


Cut along the dotted line.


affix stamp here

Aluu! From Greenlands capital!

Greetings from Greenlands northernmost town!

Cut along the dotted line.

affix stamp here


EXPRESS YOURSELF. The Greenlandic language stems from the Eskimo family of languages and one word can convey an entire sentence! Hello - Aluu Goodbye - Baaj Good morning - Iterluarit Good night - Sinilluarit Cheers! - Kasuutta! What’s your name? - Qanoq ateqarpit? My name is - Imik ateqarpunga Pleased to meet you - Nuanneq naapillutit I don’t understand - Paasinngilara Excuse me/Sorry - Utoqqatsissutigaa Please - Ikinngutinnersumik Thank you - Qujan I love you - Asavakkit

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NOT JUST BLOC KS OF IC E. All sorts of animals and pleasant plants. Greenland really does live up to its name.


GRAYLEAF WILLOW Common in West Greenland due to the mild climate. They can grow up to the height of a man.

MOUNTAIN CROWBERRY These little berries are often thrown into Greenlandic deserts. The berries will last from May till April and are tasty right up until their last days.

NIVIARSIAQ Greenland’s national flower. “Niviarsiaq” means “girl” in the native tongue. Every part of the plant is edible and is used throughout Inuit cooking.

GREENLANDIC BLUEBELL These hardy flowers grow up in the chilly regions of Northern Greenland, they add patches of color all over the land.


FUR, FEATHERS AND FLIPPERS. Nature is at the heart of Greenland and its people. From tiny lemmings to hefty polar bears, each have a part to play in the Greenlandic ecosystem.

W

oven all through Inuit culture is the heavy reliance on the animals in which they share their home. Seal meat to ivory artworks, both land and sea going creatures are key to survival.

On the contrary, the polar bear which spends most of its life on the ice, has begun to acclimatise. In recent studies the bears have become more land-going, much like their grizzly cousin. This is good news for the white mammal.

In recent years the ever growing problem of climate change is beginning to affect Arctic habitats, and in return the animals that live there. Sea ice has been at its lowest in 1,500 years. With such a change in conditions many animals are unable to adapt and in return are at risk of going into decline.

If climate change has much more of an impact than it already has, we would see a whole new side to these Arctic animals or none at all. The people who have grown fond of these creatures, may also face concern. â?„

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REINDEERS See those velvety horns? They are just like snow flakes, no two antlers being the same. Dotted all throughout the west coast, these shy mammals have become a primary meat in a Greenlanders diet. If you find yourself in a local restaurant, reindeer based meals are a local delicacy. The Reindeer name translates back as “snow shoveler�.

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WALRUSES Gathered along the coast Walruses can be found. With colossal tusks that can be carved into pieces of art, the Inuit think highly of these blubbery beasts.


ARCTIC FOXES Scattering about on the tundra, Arctic foxes are hardy animals. They can be very sneaky too. Shadowing the polar bear, they often steal scraps after the bears big kill.

LEMMINGS Small and silent, Lemmings play a key role in the food chain. They may look adorable, but to its predators they are a tasty treat. The Arctic fox is reliant on the lemming population for its survival. Both lemming and fox numbers synchronise with one and other; when the lemmings are all gone, the foxes go hungry.

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POLAR BEARS One of the most beautiful Arctic beings, the polar bear also calls Greenland its home. The bear is a national symbol, it features on the Greenlandic coat of arms walking upright in an imperious manner. Greenland’s national football team is nicknamed “The Polar Teddy Bears”. These large but elusive creatures are hardly ever spotted near human settlements.

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WHITE-TAILED EAGLES These beautiful birds are found all year round in southern Greenland they are also fully protected on Greenlandic shores.This beautiful hunter is one of the world’s largest birds of prey.

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THE NATIONAL PARK. Bigger than all but 30 countries on earth? This place is HUGE.

N

ortheast Greenland National Park is a sanctuary to a diverse array of Arctic plants and animals. Established in 1974, its purpose is to protect 972,001 km2 of land and life. Larger than all but 30 countries in the world, and 77 times larger than North Americas ‘Yellowstone’ we can easily say that this is the largest National Park on the planet. So who lives here? Easy, no-one. No permanent human population resides on this vast expanse of land. In the 80’s there were up to 40 people, involved in clean-up and exploration of certain mining sites. These people have long since left. In recent years a record of 31 people plus 110 dogs visited the park in the winter period and as summer approaches these numbers increase by about 20 as scientists enter the area. There are two main reasons as to why humans do not reside and even visit the Park. Number one; you’ll need a permit. Permits involve stating the type of expedition you’ll be carrying out and even a safety plan of said

expedition (hey, you gotta be safe out there!) This permit is available from the Ministry of Nature and Environment, who don’t want you messing with Greenland’s harmony. Number two: tricky transport. Transportation into the area is few and far between. The isolated own of Ittoqqortoormiit is the main gateway, with mushers and hunters sometimes visiting the area, hitching a lift with these guys is your best bet. If you do manage to end up in this arctic paradise, I’m sure some musk oxen and multiple polar bears will greet you. 40% of the worlds musk ox population can be found in the park. Oodles of other animals can be seen such as the arctic fox and their tasty friend, the lemming. Arctic hare’s, walruses and seals. The waters are home to whales and the skies fill with geese, owls and ravens. Nicknamed the “Arctic Riviera” the southern part of the coast catches the sun, with the North, Peary Land, having little to no ice due to its high elevation escaping the glaciers beneath. ❄

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AN ICE SHELF Ranging between 1001000 meters, These are the mountains of the sea. A TABULAR ICEBERG These flat-topped bergs form when part of an ice shelf breaks away. A BLUE ICEBERG When an iceberg flips over, blue icebergs are found. These were once the bottom of the berg. They are dynamically blue in color due to the compression of the snow when being underwater. AN ICE SHEET Otherwise known as a continental glacier, ice sheets are massive! There are only two current ice sheets which are found in Antartica and Greenland.

BRASH ICE These are the small, floating fragments of broken ice which can be found all over Greenlands shores 31


WHALE, WHALE, WHALE. WHAT DO WE HAVE HERE? The Greenlandic shores are a hot spot for the whale community. Up to 15 species come and have a swim around the scenic coasts.

1.

The Minke Whale

Distinguished by the light colored band on their flippers, Minke whales often visit Greenland in the summer months. They are one of the most popular whales to say hello to when whale watching.

2.

The Narwhal

Often referred to as “The unicorn of the sea� due to the large tusk which protrudes from the creatures head. These tusks are actually a front left tooth which grows through the narwhals upper lip. Male narwhals have the largest tusks, some up to 3 meters long. Many are unsure as to

why these odd mammals have the swordlike growths, some believe that they are used in combat with other males and/or to impress a female. Female narwhals on the other hand can only grow small tusks, if one at all. A narwhals skin has as much vitamin C in one ounce, than oranges of the same amount, a vital health benefit to the Inuit people who hunt the species. They are found around Qaanaaq and Northeast Greenland, staying in the winter months.

3.

The Humpback Whale

Feeding on shrimp, krill and plankton the humpback whale is a gentle giant.

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1. Minke Whale

2. Narwhal

3. Humpback whale


4. Orca whale

5. Fin whale

6. Beluga whale

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South Greenlandic seas hold many of these underwater beings in the summer months. These whales are famous for their mystical songs which echo through the ocean, in order to communicate with its species. Mother and baby relationships can be very close, as they are often seen touching each other with their flippers when swimming. Before plummeting to the depths, the humpback is known to lift its tail above the waters surface, an iconic scene that this whale is known for.

4.

The Orca Whale

More commonly known as the Killer Whale, they sure live up to their name. With teeth that can grow up to four inches in length, they feast on sea lions and other marine mammals, sometimes even whales. With group behaviors like that of a wolf pack, these 6 tonne carnivores hunt in pods of up to 40, proving deadly to their prey. There can be up to 4 generations in a single pod. The majority of male orcas never leave their mothers, which is very rare in a mammal social structure. These black and white beasts are hardly even seen by humans in Greenlandic waters, but are known to visit the southwest coast.

“In 2009 a beluga whale saved a Chinese divers life”

5.

The Fin Whale

Found along the east and west coast of Greenland in the summer period, fin whales are the second largest animal on earth to the blue whale. They weigh on average around 74 tonnes (17,0000 pounds!)

6.

The Beluga Whale

These white blubbery beings are one of the cutest whales. They are easy to distinguish by their white color, however they are born grey and brown which will fade to white as they mature. Traveling in small pods of around 10, they spend the winter in west Greenlandic waters. Dubbed “the canaries of the sea” Belugas are very vocal creatures, always talking to members of their pods. They are also known to mimic a selection of other sounds. Despite looking adorable these mammals are carnivorous, diving to great depths of 600 meters to eat deep sea crustaceans, fish and squid. Unlike its whale counterparts, the beluga can turn its head in all directions due to its flexible neck. These animals are very playful with one another, as well as with humans, they are often seen swimming alongside boats, and playfully spitting water from their blowhole. In 2009 a beluga whale saved a Chinese divers life after she became paralyzed from cramping. The white savior named Mila, held the divers foot in her mouth and pushed her to the surface. It just goes to show how intelligent these creatures are, and they even have facial muscles that allow them to smile. Other whales that visit Greenland are the: bowhead whale, blue whale pilot whale and the sperm whale. ❄

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ARCTIC VAMPIRES. Mosquitoes; apparently an avid fan of Greenland’s climate too!

I

f you think that you’re safe in the freezing conditions of Greenland’s polar latitude then you couldn’t be more wrong. Mosquitoes emerge from the ice during the summer months, and cause major irritation to the human and animal populations. There are two types that call Greenland home; Aedes nigripes, which is present in coastal regions and Aedes impiger, present in northwest Greenland. These flying pests are unlike the common mosquito that we are all familiar with. Living in such cold conditions they are perfectly adapted to survive and take flight in below 0 temperatures. Many of us will flinch or run at the sound of a “bzzzzz!” past our ear, but these mozzies make no such noise; they are silent and stealthy when targeting their prey. The females of the mosquito species are the ones we should watch out for. The breeding season in July brings out these bloodthirsty hunters in there thousands, causing many land mammals (such as the musk ox) to be driven on top of an ice sheet to escape the constant biting. Arctic mosquitoes do not necessarily need blood to lay their eggs, they can survive on nectar alone, but the female will lay a much larger brood when her appetite is fulfilled. The eggs will be laid

on dry land, in which they will dry out and freeze. In the following summer they will thaw and the cycle will continue. As the height of the mosquito season is from July to August, it is advised that people stock up on insect repellent and mosquito nets. Head to the south of the country if you want to escape major blood extraction. ❄

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TRADITIONAL DRESS The women wear beautifully handcrafted clothing made from a selection of animal hides and skins. Glass beads cover most of the outfit, hand sewn to perfection.


MIDNIGHT SUN. The days that never end

F

or Greenland, summertime means sun! From early June up until mid July, the country does not see the sun set. In some of it’s northernmost towns, such as Qaanaaq and Upernavik, the sun lingers in the sky right until late August. This boost of vitamin D gives a sense of energy for the people of Greenland. Most will spend as much time as possible outdoors, as

for once, this tough terrain has a soft, warm feel. Ice bergs melt into the sky, as the evening hues are cast. The locals sit back and relax as the sun paints the night with an orange brush. Children will play up unitl the early hours, and fishermen have no fear of the dark on their tail. Time here stops when the sun is in the sky. â?„

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POLAR NIGHTS. The days that never rise

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ight-time all the time. Winter, along with its bitter weather is accompanied by complete darkness. Beginning in October, the sun says goodbye up until early Febuary, where locals celebrate its arrival. But life for the people isn’t put on halt due to the lack of light, it just slows its

pace for the time being. A dull glow hangs on the horizon until normal daytime hours resume. Upon the suns arrival, school children will gather in their towns prime viewing spot and sing, like welcoming back an old friend. Towns present near the Artic Circle are the first to see day, the northernmost towns will have to wait a tiny bit longer. â?„

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GRUB FROM GREENLAND. Here are some tasty recipes from the heart of this land and its people.


Greenlandic Coffee. Nicknamed the “Northern Lights Drink”, Greenlandic Coffee is a common after dinner drink. It is set alight before drinking, producing a magnificent blue flame, hence the “Northern Lights”.

What you will need...

Directions...

(Serves One)

Pour a measure of whisky into a large glass with a stem (Bordeaux). Warm the whisky carefully over a candle or a spirit burner and set it alight.

15-20ml Whiskey

Cut along the dotted line.

15-20ml Kahlua (A coffee-flavored liqueur made in Mexico) 15-20ml Grand Marnier (An orange peel flavored brandy-based French liqueur) 150ml hot coffee, freshly brewed

Let it burn for a moment, after which Kahlúa and hot coffee without sugar should be added. Then carefully pour in a thick layer of gently whipped cream. Finally, add burning Grand Marnier from a large sauce spoon lifted high above the glass – preferably in a dark room so that the blue Grand Marnier flame is clearly visible.

Whipped Cream

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What you will need... (Serves Six) 1kg reindeer meat, cubed 2 liters water 200ml pearl barley 3 onions, chopped

Suaasat. Suaasat is a traditional Greenlandic soup. It is often eaten around the Christmas period but is popular all year round. Traditonally it is made from seal, whale and reindeer.

2 carrots, sliced

Directions...

200g cherries, dried

Pour the water into a large pot and add the meat (as is), the vegetables, the cherries, the mushrooms, the salt and pepper to taste and the herbs and bring to a simmer, simmering on medium heat until tender about 1 hour.

1 lemon, zest only 1 teaspoon rosemary, chopped 1 teaspoon thyme, chopped 1 teaspoon sage, chopped sea salt and black pepper

Add barley and the lemon zest. Check and correct the seasoning and cook until the soup is thick about 30 minutes.

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Cut along the dotted line.

300g wild mushrooms


Traditional dress/ crafts TUPILAQ’S! Carved from all sorts of materials, such as walrus tusk, caribou antler and wood, Tupilaq’s come in all shapes and sizes. The word “tupilaq” means ancestor’s soul or spirit in the Inuit language. A tupilak spirit could be called upon to help against a foe by a shaman secretly creating a figure. The figure was then bought to life and became a home for the spirit by singing a spell over it.


PAC K YOUR BAGS! Fancy a visit to the land of Green? Here are some hints and tips below for the intrepid explorer. Words by greenland.com How do I get there? Commercial airlines are the only way for travelers to get to Greenland. Air Greenland operates regular flights from Copenhagen to the main international airport in Kangerlussuaq. Air Iceland flies year round from Reykjavik Domestic Airport to Kulusuk in East Greenland and the capital Nuuk in West Greenland. Air Iceland also operates seasonal flights to Narsarsuaq in South Greenland, the capital Nuuk, Ilulissat in the Disko Bay, and Ittoqqortoormiit in North East Greenland.

How do I get around? Greenland is a rugged land and except for a few settlements and sheep farms in South Greenland there are no roads between any towns or communities.

This means that passenger-approved boats, helicopters and planes tie the country together in a web of sea and air connections operated by both large and small scale operators. Greenland’s national airline Air Greenland services all major towns and a number of settlements with domestic flights and helicopter connections year round. Disko Line ferries passengers between towns and settlements in the Disko Bay area, and Maniitsoq Tour Boat connect Maniitsoq with the capital Nuuk, both on a seasonal basis. And in South Greenland Blue Ice Explorer connects a number of towns and settlements.

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What do I wear? Regardless of whether you are travelling to Greenland during the winter, or summer, we recommend that you dress according to the layer-tolayer principle. The outermost layer should be wind and waterproof, and underneath you should wear items such as synthetic fibre fur and/or wool. Even in the middle of summer, when it can be warm on land, sailing trips can be cold as the temperature of the water is only one or two degrees Celsius. So bring a hat, scarf and gloves with you on a sailing trip. During the summer it can occasionally be so warm that shorts and t-shirts are suitable, although mosquitoes can be a problem in July and August. It is important to bring a mosquito net, insect repellent and antihistamine if you are allergic to insect bites.

Regardless of the nature of your visit to Greenland, you will often have to travel a lot on foot, and frequently in hilly and uneven terrain. Therefore it is important to bring good, waterproof walking boots or walking shoes with a sturdy moulded sole.

What currency do I use? Greenland is part of the Danish national community, and thus a common currency is used, i.e. the Danish krone. There are banks in all major towns, and it is often possible to change money at hotels. In the major towns there may be a few places that accept foreign currency, but it is more the exception than the rule, and not surprisingly the exchange rate is rarely favourable.

How can I communicate and post my instagram photos?! In terms of communication, Greenland is a high-tech society. The mobile phone system in Greenland is GSM 900/1800, and with the exception of one or two settlements the system covers all the inhabited areas of Greenland. Hotspots have been established in most major hotels so that you can access the Internet, and more and more hotels are also offering connections from their rooms. There are Internet cafĂŠs and wifi in the libraries in a number of the bigger towns and at several tourist offices. â?„

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THANK YOU. Acknowledgements

Sources

I would like to thank all of those who have helped me produce this small publication. As without you it would not be here today. Firstly I would like to thank the team at Visit Greenland. I tweeted you on a whim and you guys have been so helpful ever since. Tanny, you’re amazing. Without you this book would not have been able to touch Greenland’s shores. I cannot thank you enough for your kindness and generosity in bringing this publication to life.

www.greenland.com/en thefourthcontinent.com 2kalaallitnunaatigo.wordpress.com www.greenland-guide.gl ultimatunu.wordpress.com greenlandtravelguide.com mikkels.com/a-cultural-guide-to-greenland animals.nationalgeographic.com/animals

Becca I knew your English Lit degree would come in handy, cheers for proofreading this bad boy. Mr and Mrs Lesko, thank you for your support and funds, you put up with a lot! A big nod to my tutors, your knowledge and wisdom is never forgotten; you guys know your stuff.

onfooooot.wordpress.com/2011/06/27/ misunderstandings en.wikipedia.org www.why.is www.cntraveler.com/stories/2014-05-12/ largest-national-park-in-world

One huge thanks to Full Square. After many a printer palaver, you guys have got my back.

icestories.exploratorium.edu/dispatches/ mosquitoes

And finally, thank you to all of those who believe in my work, and me, because even if I don’t have faith in myself, you guys are there to put a smile on my face.

www.greenland-travel.com/practialinformation www.lonelyplanet.com www.food.com Wondering what snazzy fonts are used throughout this book? The titles are Banda Regular and the text is Bariol Light.

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째 27 째0 4 D NA L F O K NUH C G I B A


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