I returned to my seat, and promptly placed my order. First would be the Heroes on Horseback (bacon-wrapped shrimp) as an appetizer. Then, the King’s Fish (trout stuffed with crab) for my entrée. The shrimp came as expected wrapped in delicious, thick bacon, but they were also drizzled in barbeque sauce, and there was a little dish of ranch dressing for dipping. It was overthe-top in the best way, and I enjoyed devouring the six Heroes with fervor. Besides, I’m a sucker for finger-food. Needless to say, I was thankful Loxley’s has absorbent cloth napkins. order came first. Nick, my server, suggested a Shirley Temple (oh, but that is a “Maid Marian” at Loxley’s!) when I asked him for an interesting beverage that wasn’t alcoholic (I was on the clock, you see). I enjoyed a sip or two; the flavor of a Shirley Temple is just so fun with the ginger ale, cherry, and grenadine syrup. I realized I should further explore the inside of Loxley’s before my food arrived, so I walked around inside for a little, and the inside still has the feeling of outside, with the forested themes continuing throughout. In keeping with Robin Hood’s image of refined honor, yet unapologetic lawlessness, Loxley’s kept my eyes roving with beautiful hardwood craftsmanship throughout, and an unexpected and purposefully done ramshackle touch here and there. The building embodies the legend extremely well.
The King’s Fish soon arrived, and I could tell this was going to be something special. The presentation was akin to what you’d see on one of those jazzy TV cooking shows, with the various elements arranged in a pyramid, finished off with delicious swizzles of miniature crispy fried onions. The sauce swirled about the bottom of the dish was both appetizing and aesthetically pleasing. The sight evoked thoughts of mustard, but the flavor was decidedly more complex. The fish itself was a superbly grilled trout, a wonderful fish that holds more of a “brooky” than a "marine" taste, so the crab meat stuffed between the filets added a nicely complementary flavor of the bay. The proteins were arranged on a bed of sautéed spinach, which I found refreshingly prepared so that the leaves were both tender and soft, without having become one big mass of green, and retained individual leafiness.
As with most dishes, a starch was present, a thinly sliced, almost crispy on the edges, potato au gratin. It added a nice firmness to the dish, offering the foundation on which to stack the delicate greens, tender fish, and fluffy crab meat. I enjoyed every last bite, cleaning my plate to the point Nick didn’t even have to ask how much I had enjoyed it. Reflecting on my experience at Loxley’s, it is clear this restaurant is unique from an atmosphere point of view, delivers on the food, and offers both the traditional soups, salads, and entrees you’d expect at a casual restaurant, while also serving up sufficient elegant dishes to inspire the adventurous diner. In this issue, where I also stepped back in time to review the foods of the Renaissance Faire, I would encourage you to take a not dissimilar look into the past at Loxley’s. Reservations are accepted (call 717-898-2431) and finding your way couldn’t be easier. Head west on Route 30 from Lancaster, taking the Centerville Road exit. Turn right onto Centerville Road, and Loxley’s will be directly off to the left.
Adapted from Novels by BEVERLY LEWIS
Now - Nov. 30, 2012
2760 Old Philadelphia Pike (Route 340) Bird-in-Hand • (717) 768-1500
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20 • Amish Country News • October 2012 • AmishNews.com