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JAISALMER CAMEL SAFARIS Trekking around by camel is the most evocative and fun way to sample Thar Desert life. Don’t expect dune seas, however – the Thar is mostly arid scrubland sprinkled with villages and wind turbines, with occasional dune areas popping out here and there. You will often come across fields of millet, and children herding flocks of sheep or goats whose neckbells tinkle in the desert silence – a welcome change after the sound of belching camels. Most trips now include jeep rides to get you to less frequented areas. An alternative to Jaisalmer is to base yourself in Khuri, 48km southwest, where some good safaris are available and you’re already in the desert when you start.
R A JASTHAN W E S T E R N R A J A S T H A N
Before You Go Competition between safari organisers is cut-throat and standards vary. Most hotels and guesthouses are very happy to organise a camel safari for you. While many provide a good service, some may cut corners and take you for the kind of ride you didn’t have in mind. A few low-budget hotels in particular exert considerable pressure on guests to take ‘their’ safari. Others specifically claim ‘no safari hassle’. You can also organise a safari directly with one of the several reputable specialist agencies in Jaisalmer. Since these agencies depend exclusively on safari business it’s particularly in their interest to satisfy their clients. It’s a good idea to talk to other travellers and ask two or three operators what they’re offering. A one-night safari, leaving Jaisalmer in the afternoon and returning next morning, with a night on some dunes, is a minimum to get a feel for the experience: you’ll probably get 1½ to two hours riding each day. You can trek for several days or weeks if you wish. The longer you ride, the more you’ll gain understanding of the desert’s villages, oases, wildlife and people. The best known dunes, at Sam (40km west of Jaisalmer) and Khuri, are always crowded in the evening and are more of a carnival than a back-to-nature experience. ‘Nontouristy’ and ‘off the beaten track’ trips take you to other areas, usually southwest from Jaisalmer to the area between Sam and Khuri, or beyond Khuri. With jeep transfers included, typical rates are between ₹550 and ₹750 per person per day. This should include three meals a day, plus as much mineral water and as many blankets as you need, and often thin mattresses. Check that there will be one camel for each rider. You can pay for greater levels of comfort (eg tents, better food), but always get it all down in writing. You shouldn’t have to pay for a full day if you’re returning after breakfast on the last day. One-night safaris starting in the afternoon and ending the following morning are normally charged as about 1½ days.
Thomas Cook (Gandhi Chowk; h9.30am7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) A reliable moneychanger, changing travellers cheques and cash, and providing credit- and debit-card advances. Post Main post office (Hanuman Circle Rd; h10am5pm Mon-Sat) Tourist Information Tourist Reception Centre (%252406; Gadi Sagar Rd; h9.30am-6pm) This friendly office has a free (if rather old) town map and various brochures. Staff will helpfully answer all sorts of questions.
8 Getting There & Away
Air The airport, 5km south of town, opens and closes intermittently due to border tensions with Pakistan. In early 2011 it was closed. The most recent flights were operated by Kingfisher Airlines (www.flykingfisher.com) to Jodhpur. Bus RSRTC buses leave from a stand just off Shiv Rd on the south side of town. There are buses to Jodhpur (ordinary/express ₹125/155, 5½ hours, 15 daily), Bikaner (₹130/162, seven hours, four daily) and Jaipur (semi-deluxe ₹375, 12 hours, 5.30pm). Private buses mostly leave from a yard near Desert Boy’s Dhani, south of the fort. You can