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find any bargains. Also remember that the trade in antique architectural fixtures may be contributing to the desecration of India’s cultural heritage (beautiful old havelis are often ripped apart for their doors and window frames). Restrictions apply to the export of Indian items over 100 years old. However, most of these showrooms deal in antique reproductions, and can make a piece of antique-style furniture and ship it home for you. The best bets for quality replica antiques are Ajay Art Emporium
(Palace Rd) Rani Handicrafts (www.ranihandi crafts.com; Palace Rd), and Rajasthan Arts & Crafts House (www.rachindia.com; Palace Rd).
These shops also have more portable and often less expensive items than furniture, such as textiles, carvings and silverware.
MV Spices FOOD & DRINK (www.mvspices.com) Nai Sarak (107 Nai Sarak; h9.30am-10pm); Sardar Market (209B Vegetable Market; h10am-9pm) The clock tower area
has several tourist-oriented spice shops. This one has genuine spices and good service.
SSambhali Boutique
CLOTHING, ACCESSORIES
(Makrana Mohalla; h10.30am-8pm) This small
but interesting shop sells goods made by women who have learned craft skills with the Sambhali Trust.
Krishna Art & Crafts HANDICRAFTS (1st fl, Tija Mata ka Mandir, Tambaku Bazar) A
good place to gain knowledge of traditional garments. It also has a large range of carpets and shawls.
Krishna Book Depot BOOKSTORE (Sardar Market; h10.30am-7.30pm) Stocks an
impressive range of secondhand and new books, including Lonely Planet titles.
8 Information
There are ATMs all over the city, including State Bank ATMs at Jodhpur train station, on Nai Sarak, next to the Tourist Reception Centre (High Court Rd) and near Shahi Guest House. There’s also an ICICI Bank ATM on Nai Sarak. Main post office (Station Rd; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat, stamp sales only 10am3pm Sun) Net Hut (Makrana Mohalla; internet per hr ₹30; h9.30am-11pm) Om Forex (Sardar Market; internet per hr ₹30; h9am-10pm) Also exchanges currency and travellers cheques.
Police (Sardar Market; h24hr) Small police post inside the market’s north gate. State Bank of India (off High Court Rd; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Changes currencies and travellers cheques; east of Umaid Gardens. Tourist Reception Centre (%2545083; High Court Rd; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) Offers a free map and willingly answers questions.
8 Getting There & Away
Air Jet Airways (%5102222; www.jetairways.com; Residency Rd) and Indian Airlines (%2510758; www.indian-airlines.nic.in; Circuit House Rd) both fly daily to Delhi and Mumbai, with Indian Airlines’ Mumbai flights stopping at Udaipur on the way. Bus Destinations served from the RSRTC Central Bus Stand (Raika Bagh) include Ajmer (nonAC/AC ₹133/217, 4½ hours, half-hourly), Bikaner (₹145, 5½ hours, hourly), Delhi (₹379, 13 hours, four daily), Jaipur (express/deluxe/ AC ₹197/239/346, seven hours, half-hourly), Jaisalmer (₹155, 5½ hours, 11 daily), Pushkar (₹125, five hours, five daily), Mt Abu (₹172, 5½ hours, three daily) and Udaipur (₹157, six to eight hours, 10 daily). Comfortable Volvo AC buses head off to Ajmer (₹300) and Jaipur (₹500) at 1am, and to Jaipur and Delhi (₹1100) at 4pm. Numerous private bus companies, including Mahadev Travels, Jain Travels and VK Jain Travels, have offices on the street leading from Jodhpur train station to the Ranchodji Temple. They serve destinations such as Jaisalmer (₹150), Udaipur (₹160), Bikaner (₹140), Jaipur (₹180), Ajmer (₹120), Mt Abu (₹200) and Ahmedabad (₹260). Hotels and guesthouses will get you tickets for about ₹30 commission. Private buses leave from various locations around 2km southwest of Jodhpur train station, including Bombay Motors Circle, Kalpatru Cinema and Residency Rd – about ₹60 by autorickshaw from the clock tower. Taxi You can organise taxis for intercity trips, or longer, through most accommodation places, or deal direct with drivers. There’s a taxi stand outside Jodhpur train station. A reasonable price is ₹6 per kilometre (for a non-AC car), with a minimum of 250km per day. The driver will charge at least ₹100 for overnight stops and will charge for his return journey. Train The computerised booking office (Station Rd; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1.45pm Sun)