India guide 1

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Maharao Raja Bahadur Singh Museum

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murals. Stairs lead up to the Phool Mahal (1607), whose murals include an immense royal procession, and then the Badal Mahal (Cloud Palace; also 1607), with Bundi’s very best murals, including a wonderful Chineseinspired ceiling, divided into petal shapes and decorated with peacocks and Krishnas.

FChitrasala

To Train Station (3km); Kota (36km)

PALACE

(Ummed Mahal; hdawn-dusk) To reach this

small 18th-century palace built by Rao Ummed Singh, exit through Bundi Palace’s Elephant Gate and walk round the corner uphill. Above the palace’s garden courtyard are several rooms covered in beautiful paintings. There are some great Krishna images, including a detail of him sitting up a tree playing the flute after stealing the clothes of the gopis (milkmaids). The back room to the right is the Sheesh Mahal, badly damaged but still featuring some beautiful inlaid

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glass, while in the front room there’s an image of 18th-century Bundi itself.

Taragarh FORT (Star Fort; Indian/foreigner ₹10/100, camera/video ₹50/100; h8am-5pm) The ramshackle, partly

overgrown 1354 Taragarh fort, on the hilltop above the palace, is great to ramble around – but take a stick to battle the overgrown vegetation, help the knees on the steep climb and provide confidence when surrounded by testosterone-charged macaques.

Maharao Raja Bahadur Singh MUSEUM Museum (admission ₹50, camera ₹50; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm)

This museum is housed in the Moti Mahal, where the current royal descendants live. It is an extraordinary celebration of the lives of the more recent royal members. The first hall is stuffed with stuffed wildlife, chiefly tigers shot by Indian, British and American luminaries.


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