September
z Ganesh’s Birthday
Hindus celebrate Ganesh Chaturthi, the birth of the elephant-headed god, with verve, particularly in Mumbai. Clay idols of Ganesh are paraded through the streets before being ceremonially immersed in rivers, tanks (reservoirs) or the sea. Ganesh Chaturthi may also be in August.
October Some showers aside, this is when India starts to get its travel mojo on. October, aka shoulder season, brings festivals, mostly good weather with reasonably comfy temperatures, and lots of post-rain greenery and lushness.
z Gandhi’s Birthday
The national holiday of Gandhi Jayanti is a solemn celebration of Mohandas Gandhi’s birth, on 2 October, with prayer meetings at his cremation site in Delhi (Raj Ghat; p67). Schools and businesses close for the day.
Water 1 Water, Everywhere Water bodies are full up after the rains, making
z Durga Puja
The conquest of good over evil, exemplified by the goddess Durga’s victory over buffalo-headed demon Mahishasura. Celebrations occur around the time of Dussehra, particularly in Kolkata (p457), where thousands of images of the goddess are displayed then ritually immersed in rivers and water tanks.
z Navratri
This Hindu ‘Festival of Nine Nights’ leading up to Dussehra celebrates the goddess Durga in all her incarnations. Special dances are performed, and the goddesses Lakshmi and Saraswati are also celebrated. Festivities are particularly vibrant in Gujarat and Maharashtra. Navratri sometimes falls in September.
z Dussehra
Colourful Dussehra celebrates the victory of the Hindu god Rama over the demon-king Ravana and the triumph of good over evil. Dussehra is big in Kullu (p300), where effigies of Ravana are ritually burned, and Mysore (p852), which hosts one of India’s grandest parades.
of z Festival Lights
In the lunar month of Kartika, in October or November, Hindus celebrate Diwali (Deepavali) for five days, giving gifts, lighting fireworks, and burning butter
and oil lamps (or hanging lanterns) to lead Lord Rama home from exile. One of India’s prettiest festivals.
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z Eid al-Adha
Muslims commemorate Ibrahim’s readiness to sacrifice his son to God by slaughtering a goat or sheep and sharing it with family, the community and the poor. It will be held around 26 October in 2012, 15 October in 2013 and 4 October in 2014.
November The climate is blissful in most places, but the anomalous southern monsoon is sweeping Tamil Nadu and some of Kerala. It’s a good time to be anywhere low altitude, notwithstanding, as the temperatures are just right.
Nanak’s z Guru Birthday
Nanak Jayanti, birthday of Guru Nanak, founder of Sikhism, is celebrated with prayer readings, kirtan (Sikh devotional singing) and processions for three days, especially in Punjab and Haryana. The festival may also be held on 14 April, thought to be Nanak’s actual 1469 birth date.
z Muharram
During this month of grieving and remembrance, Shiite Muslims commemorate the martyrdom of the Prophet Mohammed’s grandson Imam, an event known as Ashura, with beautiful processions. It begins around 15 November (2012), 4 November (2013) and 25 October (2014).
PL AN YOUR TRIP M O N T H B Y M O N T H
The rain begins to ease up (with temperatures still relatively high), with places like Rajasthan all but finished with the monsoon. The second trekking season begins midmonth in the Himalaya and runs through October.
for spectacularly gushing white-water falls that will slow to a trickle in the coming months. This is also the season for rafting in some areas; visit www.india rafting.com.