Educational research quantitative qualitative and mixed approaches 6th edition johnson solutions man

Page 1

Visit to get the accurate and complete content:

https://testbankfan.com/download/educational-research-quantitative-qualitative-and-m ixed-approaches-6th-edition-johnson-solutions-manual/

Educational Research Quantitative Qualitative and Mixed Approaches 6th Edition Johnson Solutions Manual
Educational Research Quantitative Qualitative and Mixed Approaches 6th Edition Johnson Solutions Visit TestBankFan.com to get complete for all chapters

Chapter 2: Quantitative, Qualitative, and Mixed Research Lecture Notes

This chapter presents an introduction to the three major research methodology paradigms: quantitative, qualitative, and mixed. The characteristics and applications of each paradigm are discussed. The concept of a variable is introduced and the role of variables in quantitative research is discussed. Experimental and nonexperimental quantitative studies are compared. Correlation coefficients are explained both conceptually and practically. Qualitative and mixed research methods are also discussed.

Characteristics of the Three Research Paradigms

 Quantitative research—research that relies primarily on the collection of quantitative data. (Note that pure quantitative research will follow all of the paradigm characteristics of quantitative research shown in the left column of Table 2.1.)

 Qualitative research—research that relies on the collection of qualitative data. (Note that pure qualitative research will follow all of the paradigm characteristics of qualitative research shown in the right column of Table 2.1.)

 Mixed research—research that involves the mixing of quantitative and qualitative methods or paradigm characteristics. The mixing of quantitative and qualitative research can take many forms. In fact, the possibilities for mixing are almost infinite.

Johnson & Christensen EducationalResearch,6e 1
Educational Research Quantitative Qualitative and Mixed Approaches 6th Edition Johnson Solutions Visit TestBankFan.com to get complete for all chapters
Johnson & Christensen EducationalResearch,6e 2

Quantitative Research Methods: Experimental and Nonexperimental Research

The basic building blocks of quantitative research are variables.

 Variables (something that takes on different values or categories)

o Variables are the opposite of constants (something that cannot vary, such as a single value or category of a variable).

 Many of the important types of variables used in quantitative research are shown in Table 2.2.

 As seen in Table 2.2, variables can be categorized based on how they are measured and the role they play.

o The simplest classification involves the level of measurement of the variable.

 Quantitative variables vary in degree or amount (e.g., annual income).

 Categorical variables vary in type or kind (e.g., gender).

o Another way to categorize variables is based upon the roles they take on in quantitative research studies.

 Independent variables (symbolized by “IV”) are the presumed cause of another variable.

Johnson & Christensen EducationalResearch,6e 3

Another random document with no related content on Scribd:

A piece of sheet metal, B, is cut to fit the space between the wires, allowing projections at the upper and lower outside edges for bending around the upright twisted wires. The entire stove can be nickelplated if desired. It can be used in the same manner as an

The Stove Takes the Place of an Electric Stove Where There is Only a Gas Supply

electric stove and for the same purposes where a home is supplied only with gas.—Contributed by E. L. Douthett, Kansas City, Mo.

Castings without Patterns

The sketch shows a method of making small castings that I have used for several years and the castings so produced are strong and very durable, almost equal to the ordinary casting. The idea may be of considerable value to inventors and home mechanics.

A Mold Made in Plaster without a Special Pattern and Run with a Soft Metal

The mold is of plaster of Paris, held in a wood frame or box, and all that is required in the way of a pattern is a plain block or anything that will produce an impression of the general outline of the casting, as shown in the sketch. After the impression is made the mold should be dusted thoroughly with black lead. The journal bearings

are then located, holes drilled in the hardened plaster and wood pins set as shown. These pins must be of hard wood and of a diameter to suit the finished size of the bore. Brass tubing of a suitable size is cut off to the length required and placed on the wood pins. These pieces of tubing will be the brass bushings in the finished castings. Babbitt metal is melted and poured into the mold. Before pouring the metal it is well to be sure that the plaster is thoroughly dry.

The mold is as shown, and the upper side of the metal is at all times exposed to the air. This makes it necessary to have all core prints on the under side, as this side will be the one in view when the casting is finished, and the upper side, as the casting lies in the mold, will be the inside or unexposed side. In case of curved work, reinforcing strips of sheet brass should be placed in the mold and imbedded in the casting, as shown in the sketch by the dotted lines.

A little practice will enable anyone to produce very neat cored castings. and when the brass bushings are fitted to size and faced off, and the casting painted, a piece will be produced that will compare in finish and general usefulness with anything of the nature that could be bought. Do not treat the brass tubes with soldering flux unless necessary, for they should be removable so that they can be replaced when worn.—Contributed

A Developing-Paper Printer

Having a rush order for a large quantity of post cards, I was compelled to adopt some way of making the prints quickly. As I was in a place where a printer could not be secured for several weeks, I set about making one, with good results, as shown in the illustrations.

Parts for Making the Switch So That It will Operate Automatically as the Cover is Moved

I first secured an ordinary soap box and took it apart, being careful to keep the boards whole, then rebuilt it to make a box with ends measuring 12 in. square, and 14 in. in length. In one end I cut a large hole to admit a 60-watt tungsten globe, then, taking another board, I fitted a knob and hinges to it and used it for a door. The other end of the box was centered and a hole bored large enough to admit an

F. 1 F. 2 F. 3 F. 4

ordinary socket. Another hole was bored, 4 in. to the right, for another socket. A much heavier material was used for the lid than for the box, being at least ⁷⁄₈ in. thick. A piece of double-strength, clear glass, 8 by 10 in. in size, was procured and set in a hole cut in the cover so that its upper surface would be flush.

The Printer may be Set in the Table Top or Used Separately, as Desired

An ordinary single-pole switch was secured, as shown in Fig. 1, also a small mousetrap, as shown in Fig. 2. The front part of the trap was sawed off so that only the spring was utilized. The base of the trap was then cut out to fit snugly on the base of the switch, into which two corresponding holes were bored for the screws. The next

thing was to secure several clips, which were cut from sheet brass, to operate the switch, and a lever to control the switch, as shown in Fig. 3. The lever is 1 in. wide and 4 in. long, having a slot at the bottom, to slip easily over the lever handle in the switch, and a hole, drilled 1 in. above the slot, to admit a nail to keep the spring from throwing it out of position. The clips for holding the films, or plates, are shown in Fig. 4.

After securing a double socket, of which there are many types, a few yards of lamp cord, a piece of felt, 6 by 8 in. in size, and two

Side View of the Printer, Showing Parts Assembled and the Main Line Connections to the Globes

ordinary lamp sockets, I was ready to assemble the printer The switch was then placed on a board of the same width, the spring of the trap placed on top of it and then fastened with screws. This board was then cut off the length of the inside of the box and fastened in place, with the switch and trap spring on top.

The ruby light A burns all the time, acting as a pilot in placing the negative. When the cover B is lowered, after placing the paper, the felt pad on the under side holding it secure, the projecting arm C comes in contact with the switch lever D and makes the connection to the tungsten light E. After the proper time for the exposure has been given the cover is raised and by this action the tungsten light is automatically shut off, leaving only the red light burning. With a 60watt lamp I secure a print in about 3 seconds, which is fast enough. Of course, by using a larger lamp, the time could be reduced to a second or more, according to the size. The time given was obtained by experience in using ordinary brands of papers.—Contributed by Harry Marcelle, Honolulu, H. I.

Transposing Temperature Readings

The Readings can be Transposed from Fahrenheit to Centigrade or Vice Versa Instantly by the Use of This Scale

It is often necessary for the amateur scientist to transpose a temperature reading from the Fahrenheit to the centigrade scale, or vice versa. This is easily accomplished by means of the diagram without the use of a formula. The centigrade readings are given on the horizontal axis and the Fahrenheit readings on the vertical axis. The temperature readings are the same at minus 40 deg. and from that point on the Fahrenheit readings equal nine-fifths of the centigrade plus 32. This reading is instantly seen by the scale.— Contributed by James F. Boyd, Ann Arbor, Mich.

Protecting Plans in a Shop

The magazines I used in the shop, for making a few things from plans, became so soiled that they were unfit for the library. I now keep them clean by using a covering made of an old picture frame from which the back was removed and a plain glass inserted in its place. This is placed over the magazine or other plans on the bench and keeps them clean, dustless, open and flat.—Contributed by H. J. Blacklidge, San Rafael, Cal.

Homemade Eyebolts

Many times one has use for an eyebolt when there is none at hand. Eyebolts of almost any size can be quickly made of a spring cotter. Simply thread the end, as shown, and use a nut and washer. —Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.

To Keep Tan Shoes from Turning Dark

Tan-shoe polishes seem to rub the dirt into the leather and to darken it in a short time. Tan shoes can be kept clean and well polished without losing their original bright tan color if treated in the following simple manner. Instead of using tan polish on a new pair of shoes, dampen the end of a soft clean cloth, and rub a small portion of the leather at a time with the moist end and then rub briskly with the dry end. In this way tan shoes can be kept clean and nicely polished like new.—Contributed by John V. Voorhis, Ocean Grove, N. J.

A Finger-Trap Trick

It is easy to fool one’s friends with the little joker made to trap a finger. It consists of a piece of paper, about 6 in. wide and 12 in. or more long. To prepare the paper, cut two slots in one end, as shown, and then roll it up to tube form, beginning at the end with the cuts, then fasten the end with glue. The inside diameter should be about ¹⁄₂ inch.

It is Easy to Insert a Finger in the Tube, but to Get It Out is Almost Impossible

When the glue is dry, ask some one to push a finger into either end. This will be easy enough to do, but to remove the finger is a

different matter The end coils tend to pull out and hold the finger If the tube is made of tough paper, it will stand considerable pull.—

Contributed by Abner B. Shaw, N. Dartmouth, Mass.

¶When mercury is spilled it can be picked up with a medicine dropper.

Homemade Roller Skates

Wheels Fitted into the Ends of a Long Board, to Make a Roller Skate

The long wheel base of the roller skate illustrated makes it quite safe and will prevent falls. The construction of these skates is simple, the frame being made of a board, 2 ft. long, 3 in. wide and 1 in. thick. Holes are mortised through the ends to admit the wheels. A small block, cut out on one side to fit the heel of the shoe, is securely fastened centrally, for width, and just in front of the rear wheel on the board. Two leather straps are fastened to one side of each board, to fasten the skate onto the shoe. The wheels can be turned from hard wood, or small metal wheels may be purchased, as desired. The axle for the wheels consists of a bolt run through a hole bored in the edge of the board centrally with the mortise.—Contributed by Walter Veene, San Diego, Cal.

¶The screw collar of a vise should be oiled at least once a month.

How to Make a High Stool

The cast-off handles of four old brooms, three pieces of board, cut as shown, and a few screws will make a substantial high stool. The legs should be placed in the holes, as shown at A, and secured with screws turned through the edge of the board into the legs in the holes. The seat B should be fastened over this and the legs braced

Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.