GAVROCHE Magazine
Issue 1 September 2014
Luxury has never been so good: Meet the fashion pioneers who combine a love of style with their vision for an ethical world
ALSO INSIDE: The most alluring marinas in the world Classic cars Art meets fashion
Contents September 2014
Y A CH T S T H E LEAD ING MARINAS . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
G OU R M E T FINE D INING AND REST AURANT S . . . . 11
CA R S C OVE R S T ORY : E TH I CA L
REVIVAL O F T H E C LASSIC C AR . . . . . . 18
LUXU RY B RA N DS . . . . 8
COR P OR AT E S OCIA L R E S P ON S IBIL IT Y
F O UND ER & EDI TOR-IN- CHIEF
ET H IC AL LUX URY BRAND S . . . . . . . . . . 24
M ar t i n Garvey
EDI TOR
H E A D OF AD VE R T I S I NG
Ni gella Wing ate Gray
Co u rt e n a y H a re w o o d
C O PYW R IT ER
P U BL IS H E R
Dani el Sp ence Ag new
MGDS Media Ltd. w w w . mg d s g ro u p. co m
ART COR R ESPON D E N T
Tel: +44 208 432 2819
Alexa nd ra Wil k G AVR OCH E M A G A ZI NE
2
GRAP HIC DESIGN
w w w . g a vro che . bi z
Alexa nd ra Wil k
Tel: +44 208 432 2819
Editor ’s Note
I
a m ver y exc i ted to ann ou n ce my n ew appoin tmen t as editor o f G avr oc he M agaz in e. I woul d l i ke to take this time t o w is h my predeces s or, M a r i e -A nne Ham i l ton all the very bes t w ith her ex citin g n ew v e n t u r e, and I th ank h er f or the s u pport an d ex pertis e s he has c o n t ri b uted as a l abour o f love t o Gavroch e. I h av e al so i nh er i te d an in credibly talen t ed an d devoted t e a m , wh o d on’t m er el y creat e a magaz in e, bu t en gin eer a u n i q u el y c r afted or i gi nal produ ct w it h each is s u e. Our l ong ter m ai m i s n ot on ly to have Gavroch e recogn iz ed a s b e i ng at th e ep i c entr e of lu x u ry an d w ealth bu t als o as a b ra n d that genui nel y tr i e s t o make a pos it ive dif f eren ce. We fi r m l y b el i ev e that people an d bu s in es s es can do good a n d do wel l at the sam e t ime. Our l aunc h ed i ti on w ill f eatu re a bran d w hich has made a s i gn i fi c ant soc i al i m pac t by es tablis hin g a f as hion hou s e w ith a c h a ri tab l e ethos. D ani el Sp enc e A gnew w ill be review in g the mos t ex clu s ive fi n e di ni ng Mi c hel i n star red res t au ran ts in t he Gou rmet Section . Our y ac hti ng sec ti o n w ill be f eat u rin g t he mos t allu rin g m a ri nas gl obal l y and th i s t heme w ill be con t in u ed in ou r n ex t e di t i on. Our up c om i ng D av os edition w ill be packed w it h f eat u res r e la t i ng to Hi gh end lu x u ry, P hilan thropy an d corporat e s o c i a l r esp onsi b i l i ty and w ill be available at the Davos World E co n om i c For um i n J anu ary. I am bur sti ng at th e s eams w it h creat ive ideas an d t arget ed s t ra t e gi es that wi l l guar a n tee Gavroch e Magazi ne’ s con tin u ed s u c cess as we onc e agai n move f orw ard an d pos ition ou rs elves t o b e c om e the num ber on e u n iqu e lu x u ry an d philan thropic p u b li c ati on gl ob al l y .
Ni gella Wi ngat e Gray, E dito r
3
The most alluring marinas in the world Italy, southern France and the Caribbean are hard to beat, but the yachting community is travelling further afield these days. Seeking out old favourites and lesser known destinations, Gavroche pinpoints the places to be seen
4
F
rom qu ain t Eu ropean ha r bo ur s t o glos s y n ew marin as pa cke d w it h des ign er bou tiqu es or gli ste ning C aribbean harbou rs , t here is no s hortage of magn if icen t ya chting des tin ation s . The mos t challe ng ing qu es t ion may w ell be w here t o g o ne xt. “The Mediterran ean remain s t he pla ce t o s ee – or perhaps more appropr ia te ly, ‘t he place t o be s een ’, s ays Lea T inta ud, C hart er F leet Man ager at Edmisto n. “I t has the in f ras tru ct u re, the res t a ur a nts, n ightlif e, s cen ery an d f acilit ie s tha t people have come to ex pect. “There’ s als o a con tin u ed incr e a se in t he n u mber of yachts ve ntur ing f u rther af ield, w it h man y w anting to ex plore more ex ot ic des t in ations.” C roat ia, Greece an d Tu rkey a r e a ll popu lar t hes e days . “It s eems ex t raordin ary tha t a des t in ation s u ch as C roatia ha s remain ed relatively u n dis cover e d, but n ow it’ s on every yacht’ s must-se e lis t,” s ays Lea. “The C aribbea n’s no t as popu lar as it w as , bu t that ’ s dif f icult t o s ee if you ’ re an chored of f St B a r ts f or N ew Year!” 1. W This ex clu s ive haven has a lwa ys at tracted a glamorou s crow d. In the 1950s , the likes of C lark Gable , S o f ia Loren an d Jackie Ken n edy wo uld con gregate on t he is lan d, w hil e m o r e recen tly, celebrit ies s u ch as G e o r g e C loon ey, Ju lia R oberts an d Ha r r iso n F ord have f locked there. Even s o, w it h its pas tel ho use s an d brightly colou red f is hin g bo a ts, C apri s till retain s more than a da sh o f 5
ol d-w o r ld ch a r m . T h e r e a r e 10 super y ac ht b erths , al l ju s t a s h o r t str ol l fr om num e rou s d es i gn e r b o u ti q ues stoc ki ng I talian l ab e ls such as Puc c i , Fer r a ga m o a nd Ver sac e, p l us d e li c a t e s sens sel l i ng Neapo li t a n d el i c ac i es. T he mos t e x p e n s i ve m ar i na i n t h e w o r ld , i t c osts an av era ge o f E UR2,900 to moor a s u p e ryac ht. When to go : T he Rol ex Cap r i S a i li n g Week , M ay
At night all the lights from the bars and restaurants reflect in the sea
2. M ar in a di P o r t o f i n o On e o f th e pr etti est har bou rs of a ll, i dy lli c Por tofi no was on ce a s mall fi s h i n g v i l l age and i s often on ly 6
acces s ible by s ea – t he s in gl e r o a d leadin g to it is clos ed f or mos t o f the year. R egu lar vis it ors in clu de S te ve n Spielberg an d C ol dpla y’s C hris Mart in , an d Russia n billion aire Andr e y Meln ichen ko – owne r o f 119 metre P hilippe S ta r ckdes ign ed s u peryacht A. “ You can s it in the res tau ran ts an d wa tch the little poin tu bo a ts [t radition al s ailin g bo a ts] hu s t le f or s pace a m o ng st the large s u peryachts,” sa ys Tin t au d. With on ly 14 berths f or ya chts, in clu din g s ix f or s u peryacht s , it ca n be hard t o get a s pace.
When to go : Por tofi no Rol ex T r o phy, M ay
The place is brimmin g with his tory an d vis it ors can s troll in the s treets lin ed w ith plan e t rees o r visit t he morn in g f low er market .
3. Po r to C er vo, Sa r d i n i a P o r t o C er v o was found ed by the When to go: C an n es F ilm F es tiva l, M a y; Ag a K h a n w ho used i t as a pr ivat e C an n es Yacht in g F es t ival, Septe m be r r et r e a t fo r hi s fr i end s and family. Th es e d a y s , Si l vi o B ur l usc oni ow n s a 5 . P ort H ercules , M onac o v i l l a h e r e , a n d c om e h i gh The town N es tlin g in t he heart o f this s um me r, t h e m ar i na i s p ac k e d w i t h s u p er y ac hts. i s b r im m in g ex clu s ive prin cipalit y, a t the f oot of the R ock of Mon ac o , P o r t “M o o r i n g up outsi d e w i th h is t o r y H ercu les is hard t o bea t whe n Café d u P o rt am ongst a n d in it comes to glit z an d gl a m o ur . t h e o t h e r la r g e y ac hts i s It has the mos t milli o na ir e s f ant a s t i c,” s a ys T i ntaud . q u ie t e r per s qu are capit a in the wo r ld “T h e li t t le v i l l age on m o m e n t s an d even f eatu red in t he J a m e s t h e i s la n d i s al so v er y Bon d movie Golden Eye. Tha t sa id, b e au t i f u l w i th q uai nt houses an d s ome pref er Mon aco’ s s maller Po r t de l ux ury b o u t i ques. I al so l ove t he F on t vieille. s mall w o o de n br i d ges c onnec ti ng the “Bu t P ort H ercu le is s till a g r e a t d if f e re n t v i lla g es.” locat ion to be in an d a n eces sity f o r D u ri n g s u m m er m onth s, the place s toppin g in Mon aco!” s ays Tin ta ud. h e av e s w i t h t h e I tal i an j et-set and t he l ik e s o f K a t e M oss, D enzel W ash i n gton When to go: Mon t e C arlo R a lly, and G e o r ge C l ooney. Jan u ary; Mon aco Gran d Prix, M a y; Mon aco Yacht Show , September . When to go : D el uxe Fai r , J une; Max i Y ac h t R o le x C up, Sep tem b er 4. Vi eu x P o r t d e C a n n es, C ot e D 'A zur A n y o n e wanti ng to soak u p t h e g la mo u r of Cannes Fi l m Fes t ival s h ou ld b o o k a t l east a year i n ad van ce t o g u a ra n t e e a c ov eted sp ot h er e on t he Fr e n c h R i v i e r a . “Th e m ar i na i n i tsel f i s p ret ty c omm o n a lt h ough the si ght of the P al a i s du F e s t i val i s v er y i m pr essive,” s ay s Ti n t a u d. “I t’s per fec t for thos e wh o w a n t t o g o l uxur y shop p i ng an d c l ub b i n g!” 7
6. P o r t de l a Pl a i sa n ce d e B on i f acio, Mon ten egro has grow n to be o ne Co rs ic a of the hot tes t des tin ation s fo r the This spec tac ul ar elite yachtin g cro wd – Mont enegr o ha s particu larly as it ca te r s f o r p or t w i n s h e ar ts. “To me, t h i s i s th e m ost grown t o be o ne t oday’ s larger s u perya chts. b e au t i f u l p o rt entr anc e There are plen ty of of t he ho t t est of t he w o r ld , ” say s L ea .” bou tiqu es , res t au ra nts a nd desti na t i o ns Th e i m p re s s i v e r oc ks ar e s portin g f acilities , a s we ll l ay e r e d li k e cake and th e as cu lt u ral even t s a t P o r to fo r the el i t e ol d fo rt r e s s t o wn i s out of yac hti ng cr o wd Mon t en egro Yacht C lub. t h i s w o rld. Y o u c an fi nd “A great n ew marina a nd al ong t h e p rom enad e sm al l m arkets perf ect ly s it u at ed f or t hos e m a king and b o u t i q u e s for pi c ki ng up some their w ay f u rt her dow n the Dal m a tio n l ov e ly s o u v e ni r s and th e r estauran ts C oas t ,” s ays Tin t au d. ar e a lw a y s b u z zi ng i n the sum m er.” When to go: September an d O cto be r When to go : Any ti m e over the summer. f or peacef u l lat e s u mmer days .. 7. Po r to M o n t en eg r o , C r o a t i a S i n c e o peni ng i n 2009, on t he s i t e o f a fo rm al nav al base, Porto
8
8 . M arina H var, Croatia Said by s ome to be t he m o st beau t if u l place in C roat ia, t he isla nd
at the marin a du ring the Gran d P rix . “ Du bai, Qat a r a nd Abu Dhabi have g r o wn very popu lar,” s ay s L ibby Gordon f rom The Y a cht H arbou r As s oc ia tio n. “They’ re n ot as pr e tty as s ome of t he Eu r o pe a n marin as , bu t people lo ve the s hoppin g an d h o te ls. ” When to go: Abu Dha bi Gran d P rix , N ovem be r of H v a r i s f am ed for i ts l aven der f ie l d s , o li v e gr ov es and v i neyards . M e an w h i le , t h e p i c tur esq ue m ai n tow n b oas t s co b b le d str eets, p r etty sh uttered wind o w s a n d s op h i sti c ated ni ght lif e. “Th e ma ri na offer s th e best s cen e i n t h e e v e n i ng, but m ost pr efe r t o anc h o r o ff o n e of the thousand i slan ds and i n le t s ,” e xp l ai ns T i ntaud . “H var and P o r t o Montenegr o h av e s ome way t o go t o c atc h up wi th Mon aco, b ut p e o p le c e r tai nl y h av e i t i n t heir s i g h ts .” When to go : J une/J ul y to see the l av e n de r f i e ld s; A ugust for par ti es. 9. Ya s M ar in a , Abu Dha bi W h i le Mi d d l e Easter n m arin as may la ck i n o ld-fash i oned c h ar m , t hey d o bo a s t t h e m ost fab ul ous fac i l it ies . Hand i ly s i t u a ted b esi d e A b u D habi’ s For m u la 1 r a c e tr ac k , on th e manmad e i s la n d, Yas Mar i na has been c ompa re d t o Cannes. D esp i te b ein g a M usli m c o u n t r y , l oc al s ar e sai d to be t ol e ra n t o f t h e l av i sh p ar ti es throw n
1 0 . YCCS M arina Virgin G or d a , Britis h Virgin Is lands An ideal bas e f or cru is i ng the C aribbean , this corn er of paradise no t on ly has a s t ate -of -t he-art m a r ina , bu t als o ben ef its f rom bein g c lo se to Bit ter En d Yacht C lu b an d R ela is a nd C hat eau hideaw ay Biras C reek R e so r t. As w ell as the en dles s pos s ibili tie s f o r s cu ba divin g, f is hin g an d s n ork e lling , it is als o t he C aribbean bas e o f Y a cht C lu b C os t a Smeralda. The marin a, w hich ope ne d in 2012, w as developed u s in g s u s ta ina ble des ign practices an d accommod a te s 3 8 yacht s u p t o 88 met res lon g. When to go: all year rou n d, es pe cia lly March f or t he Loro P ian a C ar ibbe a n Su peryacht R egatta.
Others to cons ider: P ort de t he icon ic
Saint- Tropez, France: R iveria tow n hosts the 9
I nt e rn a t i o n a l Pol o Cup i n J ul y an d G i r agli a R o le x Cup i n J une
s pot over C hris tmas an d lavis h f ir e wo r k dis play at N ew Year.
I bi z a M agn a: am ongst the m ega y achts s e e n h e r e a re th ose owned b y I n dian s t e e l b i lli o n a ir e Lak shm i Mi ttal an d Roma n Ab ra mov i c h.
E vents this m onth:
L i m as s o l , Cr et e: thi s el egan t d ev e lo p me n t has b een c om p ar ed to M ar i n a G ra n d e i n Capr i and th e Du bai M ar i n a . Bo d r u m Pal m a r i n a , Tur k ey: p eerles s f ac ili t i e s a n d i ts l oc ati on on t he Tur ki s h Ri v i e r a h av e attr ac ted t he wor l d ’ s b i gge st m over s and shak ers t o P al ma ri n a . Po rt o f G u s tav i a , St B a r t s: A popu lar 10
Southam pton Boat Show: 12-21 September s ou thampt on boats how .com Cannes Yachting Fes tival: 9-15 Sept ember can n es yacht in gf es tival.com
Selecting Our Stars A luxury guide to the world's greatest Michelin restaurants
11
M
i ch e li n S tar s ar e awar d ed to an e li t e n u m ber of r estaur ants an d ar e h i gh ly coveted by i nter nation al c h ef s . A t r u l y l uxur i ous awar d an d s y no n y mo u s wi th exc el l enc e, a M i c h e li n re s taur ant wi l l c om man d l oy al t y a n d custom thr ough i ts s tars al one . As t h e water m ar k of l u x u ry c ui s i n e , M i ch e l i n awar d s 0 to 3 stars t o r e s t a u r a n t s on the b asi s of t he anon y mo u s revi ews. Conc entr atin g on t h e q u a li t y, tec h ni que, per sonality and co n s i s t e n c y of th e c ui si ne, th ey do not l o o k a t i nter i or s or ser v i c e when aw ar di n g s t a r s . H o w e v e r , the gui d e d oes s how f or k s a n d s p oons, whi c h si mply c onv e y s j u s t how el egant or i nformal a r e s t a u r a n t m ay b e. A th r ee-s t ar M i c h e li n r e s t a ur ant i s one “wor th y of a s p e ci a l j o u r n e y, i nd i c ati ng exc eption al c ui s i n e w h e re d i ner s eat extr e mely wel l , often sup er b l y . D i sti nct ive d is h e s a re p r ec i sel y exec uted , u s in g s up e rla t i v e i n gr ed i ents”. L o ndo n ’ s D o r chest er Ho t el W i t h regul ar app ear anc es in c oun t le s s b e s t-r estaur ant l i sts acros s t h e w o r ld , A l ai n D euc asse’s threes t ar M i c h e li n r estaur ant at London ’ s Dor c h e s t e r H o tel i s one of the fin es t i n E u r o p e . Ther e ar e onl y four U K r es t a u ra n t s w ith thr ee M i c hel i n st ars and Lo n d o n ’ s c rèm e d e l a c rèm e r esides i n f a s h i o n a b le May fai r . Sur r ound e d by 4 , 5 0 0 s h i mm e ri ng fi br e op ti c s, which d r op dr a m a t i cal l y fr om the c ei l i ng, t he ‘Tab le L u m ièr e’ i s th e c entr epi ece of t h e re s t a u r a n t , ad or ned wi th specially s e l ec t e d H e r mès c hi na, Pui fo rcat
12
s ilverw are an d ex qu is ite Sain t -L o uis crys t al. F ren ch chef Alain De uca sse t akes gu es t s on an immers ive culina r y jou rn ey, s t artin g w ith lu x ur io usly pres en ted amu s e-bou che s erve d in a porcelain egg an d f in is hin g w ith divine ‘C hamon ix’ cakes . Seas on al pr o duce f rom Brit ain an d F ran ce are eloque ntly s erved on The Dorches ter m e nu. H is s ign atu re dis hes in clu de ‘S a uté
g our ma n d’ o f l obster , tr uffl ed c hicken q uen e lle s a n d hom em ad e p asta; F illet of b e e f Ro s s i n i , c r unc hy c os l ett u ce, ‘s ac r i s t a i n’ p o tatoes and th e d ec aden t B ab a li k e i n ‘Monte-Car l o’. L e M e u r ie, P a r i s Li ke wi se h is equal ly sophisti cated L e Me u r i e re s taur ant i n Par i s has three M i c h e li n s t a rs too. Fr anc e i s h ome to 2 7 t h r e e -s t a r M i c hel i n r estaur ants an d
n in e are located in P aris . C apt u ring the es s en ce of a lu x u ry F ren ch res t a ur a nt, t he rococo ceilin g décor of Le M e ur ie t akes in s piration f rom t he r o ya l apartmen t s of Vers ailles . F ren ch des ign er P hilippe S ta r ck’s din in g rooms have a gilded N ap o le o nic Empire s tyle, w ith an tiqu e f u rn ishing s covered in F ren ch an d It alian bro ca de s. The en ormou s Belle Et oile Su ite ha s an ex traordin ary 360-degree pano r a m a 13
and o u t do o r t e r r ac e m easur i ng nearly 3 , 0 0 0 s q u a r e feet - th e onl y one o f its k i nd i n P a ri s . B athr oom s ar e equ ally l ux uri o u s w ith m ar b l e d etailin g, d es i gn e r t o i le tr i es, and d eep tub s. Op e r a t i ng und er the gui dan ce of s u p e rs t a r c h ef A l ai n D ucas s e s i nc e a u t u m n 2013, L e M eur i c e of f ers s up e rb di n i n g wi th hi s y oung pr otégé Ch r i s t o p h e S ai ntagne ser v i ng r ef in ed Fr e n c h c u i s i n e that exem p l i fi es t he s e aso n a l i n gred i ents. L a Per go l a, Ro me Ri v a lli n g th e qual i ty of D uc a s s e’ s Fr e n c h cu i s i n e i s Rom e’s onl y threes t ar M i ch e li n r estaur ant, L a Pergola, wh ich o v e r lo o ks St Peter 's B as ilica f r om t h e s t ar r y h ei gh ts of Mon te 14
Mario. Su rrou n ded by rare Aubusso n tapes t ry, Sèvres porcelain , impe r ia l f u rn itu re an d a w on derf u l collectio n o f han d-blow n glas s by Emile Ga llé, the It alian res t au ran t als o has an ex clusive C igar Lou n ge, w here you can sa vo ur a great cigar w it h a vin tage liquo ur w hile s avou rin g the beau tif u l dé co r . Widely con s idered t o be t he ‘be st res t au ran t in R ome’, t he Miche lin Gu ide has hon ou red La Pergo la with t hree s t ars an d f ive f orks , w hich is a u n ivers al s ymbol of ex ce ptio na l cu is in e. In deed an y res t au ran t t ha t ha s a w in e cellar w it h over 60,000 bo ttle s, a w ater men u w it h 29 choices , ca n m a ke a f in e claim of cu lin ary ex cellence . Running under the aegis of German chef H ein z Beck, La Pergola’ s , ha ute
c ui s i n e , i s s er ved on ver m ei l plat es and cu t le ry . Captur i ng th e seas on al q ual i t i e s o f t h e M ed i ter r anean, Ro me’ s onl y t h re e-s t a r Mi c hel i n r estau ran t i s a m a s t e r cl ass i n I tal i an c uis in e. I nd iv i d u a l h i ghl i ghts i nc l ud e th e black c od i n a fi e ry , p ep p er y m i nestr one sou p, v e nis o n i n a p istac hi o c r ust and B eck’ s s i g na t u r e d i s h , ‘Fagotel l i L a Per gola’. B ec k i s a c h e f wh o not onl y p osses s es a r ema rk a b le cul i nar y ab i l i ty b ut als o a p ala t e o f t h e utm ost r efi nem ent. H is r ema r k a b le t a ster d i sh es ar e object l es s o n s i n t h e ar t of bal anc e of fl av ou rs , t e x t u r e s a n d col our . Ele ve n M adison Pa r k , N ew Yo r k L i k e w i s e ac r oss th e A tl an tic, S wis s c h e f Da n i el Hum m ’s m aster f u lly
prepared cu is in e at Eleven Ma diso n Park in N ew York rivals an yt hing yo u may ex perien ce in Eu rope. Ar g ua bly t he f in es t din in g ex perien ce in the Big Apple, t he three-s t ar M iche lin res t au ran t is co-ow n ed by Will Guida r a . The magn if icen t Art Deco resta ur a nt has s oarin g 35- f oot ceilin g s a nd s pectacu lar view s of Madis on S qua r e Park. Of f erin g beau tif u l view s o f Ne w York, the res tau ran t is t he pe r f e ct s et tin g f or H u mm’ s s tylis h c uisine , w hich in n ovat ively pays homage to the city’ s cu lin ary tradition s . While the epic N ew York b uilding con t ras t s heavily w it h t he m o de st port ion s , gu es ts s hou ld ex pect to de vo te t hree or f ou r hou rs here as this thr e e s tar Michelin res t au ran t is made up o f 15
16
man y act s . The mu lti-cou rs e ta sting men u is arou n d $ 225 an d pays ho m a g e t o N ew York lon gs t an din g f ood c ultur e . The F ran co-in f lu en ced green m a r ke t cu is in e in clu des dis hes s u ch as M usco vy du ck glaz ed w ith laven der hon e y, a nd f oie gras terrin e w ith plu ms , u m e bo shi an d bitter almon ds . R en ow n ed f or it s f ou r-cour se a nd f ive-cou rs e tas t in g men u s , t he se a so na l cu is in e celebrat es local N ew Yor k f a r m an d s ea in gredien ts : oys t ers , s ca llo ps, lobs t er, du ck, an d aged bee f . The f oie gras t errin e w it h plu m an d bitte r almon d is a s pecial f avou rit e, a nd the s tu rgeon pres en t ed as t ake on a Ne w York C ity bagel is a tru ly mes m e r ising ex perien ce. There are als o hom e m a de ales an d s pirit s s erved ex clu s ive ly f o r Eleven Madis on P ark by It hac a B e e r C o. an d St . George Spirit s . Like her cou n t erparts in E ur o pe , t he three -s t ar Michelin resta ur a nt f ocu s es on the ex trao r dina r y agricu ltu ral bou n ty of t he lo ca l en viron men t. C apt u rin g a u nive r sa l t heme of cu lin ary ex cellen ce , the Michelin-s t ar chef s of Alain De uca sse , H ein z Beck an d Dan iel H u mm repr e se nt t he joie de vivre of in tern a tio na l cu is in e. Servin g f res h, s eas on al dishe s in his toric s ettin gs , the M iche lin s tar chef ’ s have f ood con n o isse ur s marvellin g over t heir tas t er co ur se s an d in n ovate cu is in e. F or ex c e lle nce repres en t s the w is e choice of m a ny altern atives - choice, n ot chan ce , will det ermin e you r cu lin ary des t in y.
17
A vintage investment with thrills As prices continue to rise, classic motors could be the ultimate investment vehicle, but have the enthusiasts simply got carried away?
18
A
t the giddy top en d of the m a r ke t, there s eems n o limit to wha t collect ors w ill pay f or their u ltim a te clas s ic car. With prices climbing a n as ton is hin g 47 per cen t las t yea r , wha t w as on ce a hobby s u dden ly s ta r te d to s eem like a dream in ves t men t . “The ret u rn can be as tron o m ica l. C las s ic cars have ou tperf orme d the F TSE by a con s iderable perc e nta g e in the las t f ive years ,” s ays M a r cus At kin s on of clas s ic car in s u rers H a g e r ty In tern ation al. “P eople are choo sing to in ves t dis pos able mon ey in cars, f ine art an d w in e. You can ’ t s how o f f a certif icate of s t ock market res u lts, but you can s how of f an As t on Mart in DB 5 . Wit h cars , t here’ s a cert ain eleme nt o f n os talgia bu t you can als o drive the m , t ou ch them, s mell t hem, f eel t he m .” Ex emption f rom capit al ga ins ta x an d con tin u ed low in teres t rate s m a ke clas s ic cars even more at tr a ctive . “U ltimately an y market is abou t supply an d deman d. There’ s a f in ite s u pply o f collect ors ’ motor cars an d pres e ntly a healthy appet it e f or them,” points o ut James Kn ight , Bon hams Globa l He a d of Motorin g. R ecen t high prof ile s ales include a 1954 Mercedes W196 that f e tche d almos t $ 30 million (£19 millio n) la st year, an d a 1997 McLaren F1 G TR Lon gt ail w hich w en t f or $ 5.28 m illio n (£32 million ) in Jan u ary. Ex pecta tio ns w ere of f t he s cale w hen a certa in 1 9 6 2 F errari 250 GTO w as au ct ione d by Bon hams in Au gu s t, an d the h a m m e r came dow n at $ 38 million (£23 millio n) t hat day in C alif orn ia - les s t ha n m a ny ex pect ed. 19
A c co rd i ng to an i nd ex of c l a s s ic c ar s co mp i le d b y Hi stor i c A utom obile G r ou p In t e r n ati onal (HA G I ), t he mar ke t h a s i nd eed sl owed - gr o w in g b y a m o de s t 8 .42 per c ent for th e year t o Ju ly . Bu t w hi l e r ec ent year s have b e e n r e m i n i s c ent of th e c l assi c car b oom o f t h e l ate 1980s (pr i c es f ell s t e e p ly i n t h e ear l y 1990s), expert s r ema i n u n d a u nted . “I do n ’ t th i nk i t’s goi ng to cras h as b e f o re , b ec ause thi s ti m e people ar e b u y i n g wi th c ash i nstead of 20
borrow in g,” ex plain s Atkin s on . “The y s ay ‘I’ ve alw ays loved t hat car. If I g e t a good ret u rn , t hat ’ s ju s t the icing o n t he cake’. Dif f eren t areas of the m a r ke t are comin g in to play - Sou t h Am e r ica , t he F ar Eas t an d C hin a.” While t he old clas s ics - the F erraris , As ton Mart in s an d E-Type Jags - con tin u e to appreci a te in valu e, the rally cars of t he 198 0 s a r e at tractin g more at ten tion . It’s the modern collect or cars w hich are be ing cou rt ed by t he n ex t gen erat ion - the
l ik e s o f t h e For d Si er r a Coswor th an d t h e B M W M 3 E v o,” say s A tki nson . “A 1 9 8 5 Au di Quattr o Sp or t S W B Cou pé s ol d fo r £ 1 1 5 , 740 at G ood wood Revival l as t y e a r.” S p o rt s rac i ng c ar s of th e 1950s t h at a r e e q u a lly at h om e on r oad or track ar e a ls o p e rfo rm i ng wel l , ac c or d i ng to K nigh t o f B o nham s: “T hey ’r e a ticket t o s o me o f t h e wor l d 's gr eatest even t s s uc h a s t h e M il l e Mi gl i a Retr ospective, L e M a n s Cl assi c and Good w ood Rev i v a l.”
Of cou rs e, a s ix f igu re s u m is f a r f rom es s en tial to lan d a vin t age m o to r . An MG Midget can be bou ght f or £ 3 ,0 0 0 t o £4,000 an d a Triu mph TR 4 f o r le ss t han £20,000. The dream f or ma ny is a ‘barn f in d ’, in n eed of car e a f te r decades lan gu is hin g in a garage . At C las s ic Motor Cars in Bridgn orth, Shrops hire, P et er N e um a r k overs ees t he res torat ion of Ja g ua r s an d other vin tage motors . It typica lly cos t s arou n d £150,000 to res t o r e a n E -Type, an d 60 per cen t of h is ca r s are ex port ed - t o Eu rope, t he M iddle Eas t , Au s tralia an d N orth Ame r ica . “It w as n ot alw ays the ca se tha t you cou ld pu t mon ey in t o a res to r a tio n an d get a ret u rn on you r in ves tme nt, but t hes e days you do,” he s ays . “We tr y to make the res t orat ion proces s en jo ya ble f or ou r clien ts . They’ re in volved in the s pecif ication s , t he colou r, t he tr im , a nd if t hey w an t w e’ ll give t hem tas k s to do in the w orks hop. An ythin g is po ssible . A Tex an clien t as ked u s t o s tre tch his E -type by 4.5 in ches .” Sadly, car in ves t men t f unds have yet t o take of f . On e of the la te st project s is the PH D C las s ic C ar F und. Lau n ched earlier this year by P HD Equ it y Part n ers , t hey requir e a min imu m in ves tmen t of £50,000 . “It’ s been a very bu oyan t ma r ke t, an d w e’ re tryin g to give pe o ple ex pos u re t o t hat , bu t w it h the a dde d ben ef it that t hey can u s e the ca r s - rather like a pres tige car club,” ex plain s in ves tmen t as s ociat e Ke ith Ben s on . “We w an t t o in ves t in ca r s w ort h £250,000 t o £400,000 - the on es t hat qu alif y f or high en d e ve nts 21
l ik e G o o d w o o d Rev i v al . T h ese ar e t he mod e ls t h a t a ttr ac t val ue.” Th ey a re y e t to r ai se the £2 to £2.5 mil l i o n need to star t i nves t in g - p o s s i b ly b e cause weal th y enthusias ts t e nd t o o w n t hei r own v i ntage c ars . D i e t ri c h Hatl apa, a former b ank e r a n d found er of the Hi s toric Aut o mo b i le Gr oup, sound s a not e of c aut i o n , p o i n ti ng out th at c ar s that d o w e ll i n a r i si ng m ar k et ar e more v ul n e ra b le i n per i od s of d eclin e. “T h e y do n o t c om par e to m ai nstream i nv es t me n t s , and ar e hi gh l y i l l i qu id,” h e w a r n s . “Y o u shoul d buy wi th you r h e ar t , n o t t o b oost y our wal l et.” T h a t s ai d , h e b el i ev es it is p oss i b le t o u se c l assi c i nvestmen t s t r at e gi e s . “L ook for c ar s i n sect ors t h at h a v e u n d er p er for m ed , suc h as M e r c e d e s Be n z and Por sc h e. I t’s als o wor th lo o k i n g at th e p er for m ance of i nd i v i du a l ca rs, l i ke the A ston M artin V 8 .” Fe rr a r i s h av e r i sen m ost stee ply, wit h p r i ce s go i ng up by 62 p er cen t
22
las t year alon e. “Prices are very m uch det ermin ed by rarit y. F errari s we r e bu ilt in mu ch s maller n u mbers tha n Jagu ar, bu t If you w an t to en joy dr iving a car, w hy n ot bu y a car t hat ’s be e n bu ilt in larger n u mbers ?“ s ug g e sts H atlapa. “We recommen d y o u g e t in volved in t he s ect or bef ore buying a car, maybe join a clas s ic car club a nd go to even t s . If you ’ re an en t hu sia st, by all mean s in ves t in cars , bu t if yo u’r e n ot , f in d s omet hin g you ’ re pas sio na te abou t.” E vents this m onth: International Autojum b le at Beaulieu M otor M us eum 6-7 September beau lieu .co.u k Goodwood Rivival 12-14 September grrc.goodw ood.com
Classic Car Car Market Relative Performance Classic Market Relative Performance 300.00%
250.00%
200.00%
150.00%
100.00%
50.00%
0.00%
-50.00%
10/1/2006 12/1/2006 2/1/2007 4/1/2007 6/1/2007 8/1/2007 10/1/2007 12/1/2007 2/1/2008 4/1/2008 6/1/2008 8/1/2008 10/1/2008 12/1/2008 2/1/2009 4/1/2009 6/1/2009 8/1/2009 10/1/2009 12/1/2009 2/1/2010 4/1/2010 6/1/2010 8/1/2010 10/1/2010 12/1/2010 2/1/2011 4/1/2011 6/1/2011 8/1/2011 10/1/2011 12/1/2011 2/1/2012 4/1/2012 6/1/2012 8/1/2012 10/1/2012 12/1/2012 2/1/2013 4/1/2013 6/1/2013 8/1/2013 10/1/2013 12/1/2013 2/1/2014 4/1/2014
-100.00%
Hagerty Price Guide Blue Chip Index
The secret of succes s I t p a y s t o d o y o u r r e s e ar c h whe n buyi ng a cl a s s ic c a r , s ay s M ar c u s A tkin s on of H a ge r ty I n te r n ation al - G e t a dv i ce f r om som eone neutral c l ass i c ca r clu bs c an often hel p . There ar e p le n t y o f c onsul tants wh o w ill ac c om p a n y y o u to c hec k out a c ar. - L o o k fo r a go od bad ge suc h as J agu ar, M e r c e d e s , M a ser ati , A ston M art in . S e e k o u t s o m eth i ng a l i ttl e q ui r ky p r ic e s fo r t h e A ston M ar ti n D B 40, t he DB 5 a n d D B 6 h av e r i sen steep l y, s o t r y a n e a rly DB 7. - F i n d a ca r th at h as b een c her i s hed, wit h o n e o w n e r sh i p and l ow m i l ea ge.
FTSE 100
Price of Gold Per Ounce
- Es t ablis h t he proven an ce of the ca r . An illu s t riou s pas t w ill add s ignif ica nt valu e. In Ju ly, a 1987 Mercede s g ive n t o Madon n a by Sean P en n s o ld f o r 69,575 Eu ros (£55,700 ) w ell ab o ve the ex pect ed price. - St ick to you r bu dget. C on s ide r the cos t s of res t orat ion , main ten ance a nd s torage. -Au ct ion s are w here the pro m ine nt cars ten d t o go. Bu t w ebs it es w ill a lso of f er a w ealth of cars . - Drive as man y as pos s ible. Ca ll up an d as k how lon g t he car’ s been o n the market? H as an yon e t es t-drive n it? What did they like an d dis like abo ut it? 23
The heart of luxury fashion
The founders of a London fashion label have proved that ethical clothing can be chic and the idea is taking root across the globe 24
T
w o y o u n g wom en fr om L on don w e re s i p pi ng tea at th e I m perial Hot e l i n D e lh i enj oyi ng a S und ay t reat aw ay f r o m t h e sl um s wh er e th ey were wor k i n g a s v ol unteer s wh en th ey hit up on t h e i de a o f star ti ng a fash i on label wit h a c h a ri t a bl e ethos. Th e i d e a mi gh t easi l y hav e been f or g o t t e n o n c e th ey r etur ned to t he c omf o rt s o f hom e b ac k i n 2010, bu t Nat a s h a R u f us I saac s and Lavin ia B r e n n a n fe lt c om pel l ed to hel p the v i c t i m s o f t raffi c k i ng who th ey had met i n In di a . s teep learn in g cu rve f or R u f u s Isa a cs “W e h a d no exp er i enc e i n fashion , an d Bren n an s t artin g w ith the ir two and e v e ry o n e p r ob ab l y th ought w e mon ths in a Delhi s lu m, w here the ir wer e s li gh t ly bonker s, ad m i ts R u f u s af t ern oon s w ere s pen t teachin g se wing I saacs , 3 1 , w ho had r ec entl y l eft her t o girls w ho had been traf f icked f o r the j ob a t S o t h e b y’ s. B ut th e i d ea came s ex t rade. f r om w a n t i n g to d o som ethi ng goo d.” “It w as a cu lt u re s hock, b ut o ur A r me d wi th d r ess sam p l es made ex perien ce there had a hu ge impa ct,” up i n In di a , they th r ew them selves admits Bren n an , 27, w ho lodged with a i nt o s e t t i n g u p th ei r c om p any, B e u lah cou ple w ho had adopted s ix boy s with L ond o n . W i t hi n m onth s, th ey were H IV, an d w as overw helmed to se e the s e l l i n g t h e i r fi r st d esi gns, soon to love they lavis hed on t he you n g ste r s. b e w o rn b y cl i ents i nc l ud i ng Pippa “They had given u p s o m uch M i d d le t o n , T h e D uc h ess of Cam br idge, of their lives to help others . ..” she S i e n n a M i lle r , Sar ah J essi c a Pa rker remembers . and K a t h e r i n e J enki ns. I t wa s a cul tur e F or Rufus Isa a cs J u s t a fe w y ear s ago, s h o ck, but o ur dau ght er of the 4 th t h e co n c e p t of “eth i c al Marqu es s of R eading , a nd l ux ury” was v i r tual l y exper i ence a pal of Prin ce W illia m unh e a r d o f, but B eul ah ther e ha d a an d P rin ce H arry t he tr ip L ond o n i s o ne of m any h uge i m pa ct had s pecial mean in g . He r s mall co mp a n ies to pr ov e great-great-gran df ather w as o nce a t h at e t h i ca l can be c h i c , i t’s no t all Viceroy of In dia. “It w as very po ig na nt ab ou t h e m p T-sh i r ts and h i p p y p an t s . bein g there”, s he s ays . Fas h i o n i s t a s hav e tak en the c ause to Bot h art his tory gradu ate s, who t h e i r h e a rt s , a n d th e bi g l uxur y bran ds met at chu rch, the f rien ds w ere spur r e d ar e ge t t i n g i n c r easi ngl y i nvol v ed t oo. in t o act ion by t he hopeles s s i tua tio n T h e w h ol e b usi ness has been a 25
of t h e w o m e n th ey wor ked wi th i n the s l um. In i t i a lly, th ey fund ed B eu lah L ond o n w i t h fam i l y l oans, setti ng u p c amp i n Br e n n an’s m oth er’s basemen t i n P a r s o n s G r e en, Lond on. T h ey were s e l l i n g t h e i r d esi gns wi th i n m onths an d wor d s p re a d f ast, h el p ed by th e high p r of i le w o me n spotted wear i ng their d es i gn s . “O n e o f the fi r st was [U S ac t r e s s ] J e s s ic a A l b a who wor e on e of ou r s c a r v e s i n L A . T h at was r e ally e x c i t i n g!” a d m i ts Rufus I saac s. “An d a c omple t e ly n e w d em ogr aph i c for u s !” L a s t y e a r the p ai r op ene d a p op -u p s h o p i n Lond on’s B el gr avia, and s t a y e d t her e. T hough th e main c ol l e c t i o n i s mad e i n the UK. I t ’s mu ch e asi e r t o co n tr ol th e qual i ty c a n vas b ag s , gi v e n a w ay wi th ever y pr odu ct
26
s old, are made in Delhi. Meanwhile , the Beu lah Tru s t f u n ds s kills c o ur se s f or the vict ims of traf f ickin g. Su bt le tou ches hin t a t the charitable et hos w ithou t labou ring the poin t. Beu lah is a biblical t erm me a ning to come f rom a place of darkn e ss into on e of light, an d dove prin t f a br ic allu des to love an d peace in t he cur r e nt collection . “P eople as s ociate charit y with poor qu ality, I thin k,” s ays R uf us Is aacs . “F irs t an d f oremos t , we ’r e a lu x u ry f as hion label. If a wo m a n s pen ds £400 or £500 on a dres s , it ha s t o be beau t if u l. People dis cove r a bo ut t he charit able et hos af terw ards .” “We have very loyal cu s to m e r s w ho come back to u s , an d who a r e ambas s adors f or the bran d, be ca use
n ot kn ow abou t s w eat s hops , child t h e y lo v e t h e stor y . T h ey’l l talk t o labou r an d other du biou s pra ctice s. t h e i r fr i e n ds about i t. I th i nk t hey Even s o, he s ays large lu x u ry br a nds und e rs t a n d t h a t thr ough thei r p ur chas e have ben ef it ed f rom pu blicity a f te r t h e y a r e m a k i ng a d i ffer enc e, but the in trodu cin g e thica l mai n t h i n g i s they l i ke th e People are starting collection s , and the p r odu ct .” to understand that ef f ect has be e n to H e r v i e w i s ec h oed sustainable fashion en cou rage othe r s to b y D r Ia i n D avi es fr om does not lack in f ollow s u it . Uni v e rs i t y of B ath, a “Overall I think l ec t u r e r i n m ar k eti ng and design and can be the f as hion industr y e x p e rt o n e th i c al l uxur y upmarket is bet ter than it wa s mar ke t s . f ive years ago, ” he s ays . “A s m o r e “If y o u’r e l ooki ng at l u x u ry compan ies get in volved, there’s m o r e f as h i o n , t h e fi r st th i ng y ou’r e goin g pres s u re on compan ies w ho do n’ t do t o c o n s i d e r i s th e c ut, th e d e s ign , t hes e t hin gs . It can create chan g e .” t h e fa b r i c. T h e v al ues b eh i nd i t are H igh prof ile des ign ers are s e c on da ry , a n d tal k i ng about them can in f lu en t ial. Zan dra R hodes , S te lla e v e n da ma ge a br and”, h e says. McC artn ey an d Don n a Karan a r e a ll H e b e li e ves p eop l e woul d r ather 27
k now n f o r t h e i r sustai nabl e c ol l ec tion s . Am a z i n gly , M c Car tney’s stud i os an d of f ice s a re even power ed by w in d e nergy . Or s o la de Castr o i s th e d r ivin g f or c e b e h i n d Lond on Fashi on W e ek’s Est e t h i ca - a sh owc ase for sustai n able e c o-fa s h i o n a nd i s seei ng atti tu des e v ol v e a c ro s s th e wor l d . “M a n y br and s ar e r eal l y l oo kin g at h o w t h e y ’ re pr od uc i ng thei r c l othes”, says the Italian designer. “It’s something e v e ry o n e i s taki ng ser i ousl y.” The K e r in g G ro u p [owner s of G uc c i , Sain t L aur e n t P a r i s and B al enc i aga] ar e on e c ompa n y e n c o ur agi ng posi ti v e c h an ge. I nd it e x, o w n e r of hi gh str eet chain Zar a , i s o n e o f the m ost ad vanc ed in t e r m s o f t h e li vi ng wage, and Val en t in o 28
in t erms of the dyes they u s e. H igh-en d des ign er St amo fo unde d Ecolu x e Lon don in 2010, an d the no nprof it organ is at ion recen t ly ope ne d a bou tiqu e s ellin g clothes an d jew e lle r y. “Ou r cu s tomers have acces s to the bes t t hin gs , s o it has to be s ome thing t hat cat ches their eye, s he s ays .” “P eople are s t artin g to u n de r sta nd t hat s u s t ain able f as hion does no t la ck in des ign , an d can be u pmarke t. It’s act u ally more ex pen s ive t o produce !” “It’s alw ays goin g to be a bo ut t he beau tif u l dres s ”, adds de Ca str o . “Bu t w hat I’m s t artin g t o s ee is pe o ple s ayin g I don’t thin k I w an t to b uy this dres s u n les s I kn ow how it ’ s be e n made.”