We had a fabulous time aboard the Nautilus 2 in October 2015. The boat certainly lived up to all expectations and the diving was amazing – Whale Sharks; Manta Rays; an unforgettable night dive with a wall of sharks. I’ve written an article for Sportdiving which covers the journey around four atolls of this island nation. I’ve also put together a gallery of my images from the trip at https://www.flickr.com/photos/135131877@N08/ SPORTDIVING MAGAZINE (publication pending) ‘The Maldives’ – the very name conjures up visions of tiny islands sprinkled across an emerald ocean, white powder sand beaches rimmed with coconut palms and offshore aquamarine coral reefs. Abundant fish, warm clear waters and endless dives sites are all part of the allure. And the vision is not far wrong. It is a unique, magical place with something for every diver.
I led a group of 24 aboard the Austrian-owned ‘Nautilus 2’ liveaboard on a September SCUBA safari around the various atolls of the tourist region adjacent to Male. North and South Male, Felidhu and Ari Atolls were the location for 16 dives over a 7 day safari, plus an amazing session snorkelling with a Whale Shark. This was our third trip to The Maldives, and despite less than ideal conditions, some of the dives were, well … epic. Not surprising really. The Maldives probably has more kilometres of coral reef per head of population than just about anywhere else on earth, and its relative isolation and low fishing pressure ensures its continued sustainability – well, at least for now. Most of the islands are only a metre or so above sea level, and with the highest point in the entire island nation under three metres, sea level rise will catch up with The Maldives sooner rather than later.
Liveaboard safaris, in my humble opinion, offer the best and most affordable way to dive The Maldives. For the much the same day rate as ‘full board accommodation only’ at a modest resort, you can enjoy three dives a day on board the ‘Nautilus 2’, all the while covering a lot of dive territory to boot. And waking up to a stunning new horizon each morning is only one of the added benefits. There are more than 80 liveaboards in The Maldives so the competition is high and the rates reasonable, particularly in the low season – the value per dive is hard to beat and the service offered is excellent. The Maldives is one of the only destinations I know of where a liveaboard dive cruise entails not one, but two vessels - one to live on and one to dive from. The ‘Nautilus 2’ is a 43 metre wooden traditional vessel on a 13 metre beam, meaning she is one of the largest liveaboards in The Maldives. With 13 cabins,
she welcomes 24 guests on board with spacious style – not as glitzy and glamorous as some of the sparkling white three deck ships but blessed with way more room and stability than most. And tagging along for the journey is the ‘Dheriyaa’, a beamy 23 metre dive dhoni where all stuff related to diving remains for the trip. This organised and efficient dive platform swallows 24 divers with ease. This is what sets Maldives liveaboards apart – instead of over half of the upper deck being taken over by dive operations, we spread out over the entire liveaboard while our smelly wetsuits and snakey regulators hung up in the dive dhoni (as below). The ‘Nautilus 2’ caters almost exclusively for the German, Swiss and Austrian market, indeed we were the first Australian group on board. Austrian dive guide Peter (‘Petzi’) and his Maldivian counterpart Ally were possibly a little out of their comfort zone at first, but they soon adapted to our sense of humour and embraced the many ‘true’ stories about Funnel Webs; Drop Bears; Taipans; Crocodiles and White Pointers! Dives start really early in the day (wakeup call 6:00 - 6:30 am typically) with detailed briefings given in the Nautilus’ spacious and comfortable lounge. The early start might not be popular, but it allows time to fill tanks between dives and motor to yet another idyllic reef off some superb island. And with three dives each day a long surface interval is certainly of benefit. Our trip coincided with a full moon though, and this means one thing in The Maldives – big currents and king tides – some villages were sandbagging important installations while we were there. Tides are crucial to all Maldives dive sites – obviously it is the current that brings the nutrients. The incoming tide is preferred due to clearer water and more fish action, with sharks being prevalent on the passage entrances. Occasionally, dive sites were rendered a little risky strong currents and a planned dive at ‘Manta Point’ was aborted due to an unstoppable ripping express ride along the reef wall. No matter – we dived with four of these magnificent creatures at ‘Enmadi giri’ in South Male, watching them feed over the top of the ‘giri’. We were riveted by their slow-mo grace and beauty as they wheeled overhead.
Maldivian dive sites fall into three categories – there are the ‘thilas’, or pinnacle dives where the reef rises to not less than five metres from the surface; the ‘giris’ where the reef top is shallow and less than 5 metres deep; and the ‘kandus’ or reef passes where the ocean cuts into the lagoons. Each offer their own challenge, though currents often proved fickle and hard to predict. There are 26 separate atolls in this island nation, 1,192 islets and only 1% of the entire nation is actually land! It literally is a ‘waterworld’. And as one leaves Male behind the dive sites become increasingly adventurous and unpronounceable - names such as ‘Dhevana Kandu’ are or ‘Biyadhoo Giri’ are way more likely that the ubiquitous ‘Butterfly bommie’!
There is also the occasional wreck and jetty dive. One glorious evening we headed to Alimatha jetty for a night dive with a twist. I had been a little concerned that a few of my group had zero night diving experience, but Petzi allayed my fears. He explained that this was to be a very simple night dive, where the group would merely assemble on the sand bottom at eight metres or so and wait ‘for the show to start’, as he put it, grinning broadly. Each night a procession of Tawny Nurse Sharks (masses of them) converge on the resort jetty for a feed of fish bits. Petzi prepared us well – emphasising just how many we could encounter, but noone expected a veritable ‘wall of sharks’ to surround us, looming large in the torchlight – it would have been pointless trying to count them as they circled in layers from the surface to the bottom cruising casually between awestruck divers. Peter had emphasised the harmless nature of the beasties but they were impressive nonetheless with dozens of them well over two metres. Giant Trevally, large nosy Rays and Bluefin Trevally also joined in the action, poking around bommies looking for fish scraps or unwary critters, like the unfortunate octopus that broke camouflage at just the wrong moment. The action was unbelievable, the experience unforgettable and yet this was simultaneously the easiest and possibly the best night dive we’d ever done.
The Maldives has a reputation for big critters and thus my macro lens stayed locked away in the camera case. Speaking of big, we not only snorkelled with a seven metre Whale Shark at Ari Atoll but also scuba dived with a large
adult later that same day. The Maldives is one destination where you can realistically expect to see Whale Sharks and Mantas on a week-long liveaboard journey – they are a year round proposition. The fish life was insane - every dive involved schools of large Trevally and occasionally impressive predators such as Dogtooth Tuna or the swift Spanish Mackerel. The Dogtooth Tuna commanded respect – even the Grey Reef Whalers backed off when the Doggies were hitting the schools of Fusiliers. Much more sedate were the gorgeous Napoleon Wrasse and Turtles seen on a few dives.
For sheer volume, the massive schools of Fusiliers and Basslets on top of the ‘thilas’ are hard to beat. But even they were outnumbered by an animated confetti of thousands of Red Toothed Triggerfish which twitched over the reef walls while Vlaming’s Unicornfish spiralled in delight in our bubble streams – these fish seriously enjoy a spa! Hard corals are abundant (actually the whole nation is hard coral!) though there is evidence at some sites of damage from bleaching events of the past decades. But I had memories from my last trip of rainbowed veils of soft corals, so Petzi took us to his favourite dive site ‘Radhiga – Thila’ in South Ari Atoll. This ‘thila’ is undercut with massive ledges filled with white; pastel pink and apricot soft corals. Petzi explained they looked like ‘edleweiss’ (which prompted a raucous sing song from ‘The Sound of Music!’) There was only a hint of current so the ‘edelweiss’ softies weren’t fully inflated but were impressive nonetheless - the many Blue Faced Angels and Oriental Sweetlips seemed to enjoy posing in front of suitably complimentary backgrounds. The fish at this site were generally placid and easy to photograph. This dive was an absolute riot of colour and would rank very high on my list of top dives. I tend to agree with Petzi!
The last dive of our safari was at ‘Hafsa Thila’ which really got the heart pumping with constant shark action off the crest of the ‘thila’. White tips and Grey Reefies edged unusually close while we were enveloped in schools of Blue and Gold Fusiliers. A restless curtain of Red Tooth Triggers provided a moving purple backdrop in the dull early morning light. Something flashed by overhead – the fat torpedoes of prowling Dogtooth Tuna. A few seconds later, an audible ‘crack’ was heard and the schools of baitfish parted in an instant as the Doggies struck. Another great dive and a fitting end to a wonderful journey.
The Angelfish of Radhiga Thila
WHAT IS THE BEST TIME OF THE YEAR FOR DIVING THE MALDIVES? (sourced from the skipper of The Emperor fleet) The Maldives offers good diving all year round. Typically June and July have the strongest wind -some vessels take these months off for dry dock. One can split the year into the 2 seasons: May to November: South West Monsoon Wind from the South West and current from the West (all the way from Africa). Best Places to Dive: Ari Atoll, North Male Atoll. Mantas (East Ari, and Eastern side of Male Atolls), Whalesharks (South Ari) Clean Oceanic water comes in from the west with the current. This means the visibility on Ari Atoll is best in this period. The water temp is a tad lower which results in sharks coming up a bit shallower. The pinnacles of Ari Atoll are great in this time. Weather: More overcast so therefore less normal tourists, means less crowded dive sites. The South West Monsoon offers good conditions for new divers as the currents are weaker with a good chance of seeing Mantas and Whalesharks. December to April: North East Monsoon Breezes from the north east (some protection from India and Sri Lanka). Much calmer conditions. Current from the East (from Sumatra). Diving is good everywhere, however visibility is best on the Eastern side, where the traditional Maldivian ‘kandu’ dives will take place to see Grey Reefies and Eagle rays. Ari is where the Mantas and Whalesharks will be found as the current pushes through from the east picking up the plankton - the big lazy Mantas sit on the opposite side with their mouths open being fed by the current. January to March has very strong currents around New and Full moon, with January new moon having the strongest current of the year. January to April are best for sun-worshippers!
THE BOAT With its length of 43 m, the Nautilus Two is an extremely spacious liveaboard. Made entirely of wood and in traditional Maldivian design, excellent workmanship, advanced equipment ensure that the Nautilus Two is not only looking great. In 12 spacious, luxurious guest cabins can accommodate up to 24 divers, kite surfers and holidaymakers during their dive travel in luxury rooms. Power supply of 230V from European sockets are available around the clock, also two water treatment plants supply the ship with sufficient fresh water. In the 120 m² large parlor our bartender expected you after the dive with a cold beer on tap, cocktails, soft drinks or fresh fruit juices. An old fishing dhoni is the space division in this area. It divides the restaurant area which is on the port side and the lounge area with rattan furniture and the Barco sub on the starboard side. The chef will cook for you a varied menu using local and Asian specialties, as well as out of the European cuisine. Of course, your self-caught fish is cooked to your request accordingly. The perfect wine to ensure you can find on our drinks menu. Fuel up sunshine on the huge sun deck, relax in the Jacuzzi or on a comfortable lounge chair in the shade while the Nautilus Two brings you to the next destination of your dive trip in the Maldives. Watch this short 2 minute video (check out the space on deck…!) -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDhCk5FE794 and some nice above and below water footage https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUuDtRyQQTM ; Mantas; Dogtooth Tuna https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rfno05CQMVk Brilliant - a lot of fish; sharks and rays https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UiJCJ351xs ; fantastic manta dive from Nautilus 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7Csqp8im7M
The September 2015 group – and a fine bunch they were. We had a fantastic time and made some good friends and new dive buddies.
There are both fore and aft outdoor shaded lounges – very popular in between dives.
The cabins of the Nautilus Two are larger than on every other liveaboard in the Maldives. They average 20 - 25 m², with most having a double bed and single bed, a desk with drawers and stool, a mirror, a large closet and built next to the bed in the hull, are the proven “swallow nests” as additional storage space. The cabins of the Nautilus Two are not only extremely spacious, but also provide ample storage space. Large pieces of luggage such as suitcases or dive bags can be easily stowed under the bed. The air conditioning is separately adjustable for each cabin. If you do not want air conditioning, a large deck hatch and a side hatch in the cabins of the Nautilus Two ensure adequate ventilation and provide the rooms with natural light at the same time. All 12 cabins have identical design and are equipped with a king size double bed and a king single bed. However, the cabins are booked only for double occupancy. Ten of the cabins are located below deck and two on the middle deck. All cabins have their own approximately 6 m² large bathroom with side window. Each bathroom has a large vanity with mirror, a luxurious massage shower and a toilet. A bath towel per person is provided. Storage space for books, camera, etc. is sufficiently available and for your clothes, there is a wardrobe with hangers and for your notes you will also find a separate desk and chair in your room.
Visit: http://www.maldives-divesafari.com/en/nautilus_two/divesafaris_maldives_nautilus_two.php which has some great 360 degree interactive images.
THE JOURNEY: For those wanting to do a return journey after the 2015 trip, we will navigate a slightly different route to experience other sites. But I have requested a repeat of the Alimatha Night Dive; Radhiga Thila and Hafsa Thila as these were clearly standouts. The standard of diving is not necessarily for ‘brand new’ novices however, and I would consider this as a good ‘second’ dive trip. There are some currents; dive sites are more exposed than we often dive and surface conditions were occasionally a little unforgiving. I think it would be advisable for divers to have around 15 – 20 hours dives logged prior to this trip. It is mandatory for all divers to have a computer and a Surface Marker Bouy (safety sausage) preferably with 5 metres of cord attached. If you don’t have a computer, then one will be provided (but at 12 euros a day – considering begging/borrowing one prior). Dive gear hire is relatively expensive (wetsuit 8 euros a day) so prior preparation will save you some $$. The early morning starts really aren’t a worry – The Maldives is 6 hours behind Melbourne time, so we tended to wake up very early the first few days in any case.
HOSPITALITY: Meals are very good indeed. Breakfast and lunches were always filling (although lunches a little heavy on carbs {pasta; rice; but also salads}) and dinners consisted of quite large buffets with beef; chicken; seafood choices. The bar area is terrific – San Miguel on tap! Pina Coladas! One must remember that one is on a boat, but really evenings were very pleasant in the company of a terrific group! One night we had some cultural drumming and singing which was welcome.
The Sun Deck The huge sun deck offers comfortable sun loungers and is seasonally equipped with protective awnings. Here you can find a rest and relaxation after the dives and also enjoy an excellent view on the Maldivian island world and the magical sunset among the islands plus another Jacuzz. The Parlor Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the spacious salon. A 5-meter-long fishing dhoni is the room partition and also serves as a buffet table for food presentation. So all guests can walk around the buffet the same time and select their desired specialty. At our immensely popular Nautilus Two Bar our barman mixes the cocktails of your choice. By the way! You should taste our NAUTILUS TWO special cocktail ! There is also wonderful cold beer on tap and a wide selection of spirits, red and white wines and soft drinks. In Nautilus Coffee Shop freshly squeezed fruit juices, milkshakes and sandwiches available for in-between. Hot tea and coffee are 24 hours free of charge. A hi-fi stereo with CD/MP3 player provides musical entertainment. Of course, there is also a large flat screen for viewing your just recorded movies. Traditionally, the control stand is also in the salon. So you can see how our captain steers the Nautilus Two to their next destination.
Check In at the Nautilus Liveaboards Upon arrival at one of the Nautilus Liveaboards first of all a cool refreshment awaits you. In the following you can move in the cabins and stow everything before the crew starts with a detailed boat briefing. The time of the first dive to check the equipment depends on the time of your arrival. If you arrive in the morning first dive takes place in the early afternoon, at a later arrival at the following morning.
Typical Diving Days From the 2nd boat day are usually offered three dives (morning, forenoon, noon). At longer crossings between the atolls, it may happen that the second dive will be later in the day. If this is the case, a night dive is offered on the same evening, if the weather allows it.
Dives from the Dhoni Each dive starts with a detailed briefing of our dive guides aboard the Nautilus Liveaboards. After the briefing and the compilation of the buddy teams, we are switching to the already standing by Dhoni, which takes us comfortable to the upcoming dive site. During the ride to the dive site is sufficient time for applying the equipment and prepare for the dive. After our dive guides have checked the local conditions (current, visibility) it goes down into the fantastic underwater world of the Maldives. During the dive you can go with our experienced dive guides or dive also in a buddy team with your diving partner if you have sufficient experience. Upon successful completion of the dive our Dhoni picks you up on the surface again and the crew is there to help you when you’re entering the boat again.
ALL INCLUSIVE PRICE: $3420 – no reduction for non-divers as we charter the whole boat and aren’t really charged for the diving as such….NOTE: As with The July Siladen, North Sulawesi trip, this is a private trip (not a school trip at all). To secure your place on this trip (I expect it will fill) please forward a $1000 deposit (liveaboards require a larger deposit than usual) to Ian Lockwood, ALLWAYS DIVE EXPEDITIONS (booking form is attached)