{8156m}
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At 8156m, Manaslu is the world’s eighth highest mountain and a true Himalayan giant situated in Nepal. Like Cho Oyu, it has low technical difficulty and it is an ideal first 8000m peak. We climb Manaslu via the classic North East face. The expedition starts in Kathmandu where we make our final preparations before taking a helicopter to Samagown (3800m) where we will acclimatise for several days with daywalks, before trekking to basecamp at 4800m. Base camp will be home for up to four weeks whilst we climb the mountain and so will be as comfortable as possible with plenty of good food. Our second to none Sherpa team will prepare the route, fixing ropes and stocking our high camps with food, gas and oxygen so that everything is in place ready for our summit push – on which the Sherpas will accompany us. With this state of the art support and leadership from an experienced, fully qualified Dream Guide your chances of success are as high as possible. We have a bigger Sherpa team than on Cho Oyu, and the expedition is 5 days longer, to allow for any bad weather during our summit window.
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To be prepared for climbing Manaslu, you will need a good grounding in mountaineering (typically climbing to alpine ‘AD’) and have at least climbed to 6000m. Although Manaslu could be considered one of the easier 8000m peaks, it is certainly not ‘easy’. You will need strong determination and dedication, as well as good physical fitness and health to reach the summit. We advise the following fitness and ability levels; ABILITY LEVEL: 4 – Technical climbing proficiency and previous experience at climbing alpine AD routes as well as a knowledge of rope work and glacier travel is required. FITNESS LEVEL: D- Extreme altitude (8000m+) and living in an expedition environment for 6 weeks or more require the highest possible levels of fitness and resilience. Lots of training and experience are a must for these trips.
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DATES: August to October MEET: People tend to arrive on various different flights, so we will meet you at the airport and transfer you to the hotel. We will then have a group briefing in the hotel in the evening to give you an overview of the trip, to discuss kit and see if anything needs to be hired or bought locally in Manaslu. TYPICAL ITINERARY DAY 1-2: Fly to Kathmandu DAY 3: Final preparations and sightseeing in Kathmandu
Depending on the weather and availability of helicopters, the expedition may fly into and/or out of Samagown. However, you should be prepared for trekking into and out of Samagown at the start and end of the expedition. This itinerary gives an outline of the planned schedule for the expedition, with a built-in contingency in case of lost baggage on arrival at Kathmandu, and in case of adverse travelling conditions on our return from base camp. It also allows gradual acclimatisation on the way up to base camp. Please note that due to the nature of climbing 8000m peaks, it is necessary to have a flexible plan, so the exact itinerary may change: be it due to factors beyond our control (weather, availability of helicopters), or to suit the team as a whole. In particular, during the approach, we will endeavour to make progress whilst making sure climbers are acclimatising properly.
DAY 4: Take helicopter to Samagown (3800m) DAY 5-7: Acclimatisation and day-treks around Samagown DAY 8: Trek to Basecamp (4800m) Day 9-10: Acclimatisation, resting and sorting kit at Basecamp DAY 11-41: Climb Manaslu DAY 42: Return on foot to Samagown DAY 43: Return to Kathmandu DAY 44: Relax in Kathmandu DAY 45: Fly home
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To maximise your chance of summiting Manaslu it is important to get as fit as you possibly can. If you have already been to altitude (6000-7000m), you will have some idea of the endurance required to get there. To summit an 8000m peak, you are upping the endurance test even further, so prior preparation is paramount to success. The process of training for your goal will help you focus on your goal, and having a goal will help you focus on your training. So all in all, training is good!
not work overnight! The fittest athletes train as part of their lifestyles and have been doing it for years, so you should start your training at least 6 months before the expedition. It is important to arrive in Nepal fit and healthy, so look after yourself before your expedition, don’t overdo the training, and don’t start a diet before you get here, you will lose weight at altitude and will need all your strength on the mountain. So give yourself a head start and arrive feeling strong!
Mountaineering is all about being able to exercise at a moderate intensity for many hours (typically 5-12 hours) and your training should reflect this. Although all but our summit day will be less than 6 hours or so, the high altitude really takes its toll (and it feels like a longer day). Probably the best training is going on long days hill walking as this simulates the real thing as closely as possible and prepares the mind (exercising for long periods in poor weather requires mental strength!) However not everyone has the opportunity to do this and so alternatives such as running, cycling and gym workouts are good. The focus should be on training cardiovascular endurance and so if in the gym, cycling, running and rowing machines are much better than weight training. Try and exercise for up to a couple of hours at a time, 4 times a week. Remember to build up your workouts over time, your muscles and joints need time to build up to avoid injury. Try and choose an activity that you enjoy and keep a note of what you do and your times, this really helps with keeping the motivation up. If you are not used to training then your local gym will be able to advise you on a plan and schedule to help you achieve your goals. Please note that training does
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As one climbs higher the air gets thinner and so there is less oxygen in each breath we take. The higher we go the less oxygen there is. This makes exercising much harder work than at sea level and so we have to slow down to help compensate. Also there is much less oxygen in the air as we get higher, this can lead to ‘altitude sickness’ or Acute Mountain Sickness where symptoms include headache, nausea, weakness, fatigue, dizziness and can develop into a very serious and even fatal (in extreme cases) problem. To avoid these problems, enjoy the climbing and increase our chances of summiting we need to acclimatise by spending several days and nights at progressively higher altitudes, so our bodies can adapt. This is a very important part of our preparation. INSURANCE We strongly recommend getting specialist travel insurance that covers cancellation, medical and mountain rescue. Make sure that it covers glaciated mountaineering and climbing. We recommend the BMC - they have comprehensive policies and a good reputation Please send a copy of your insurance details to us and bring the original to Kathmandu.
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snacks and drinks. Internet and phone access (satellite phone) is available, as is a selection of DVDs. High Camps will be stocked with food and gas by our Sherpa’s. Tents will be North Face VE25s and Mountain 47’s, Oxygen will be stocked at camp 4, ready for the summit push.
We will be working as an independent team, with logistical/ admin back up from our Sherpa team and base camp staff. The route will be prepared by the Sherpa team while we make acclimatisation forays onto the mountain, moving at our own pace. As we acclimatise we will venture further and further up staying at the higher camps, e.g. camps 1(5900m) and 2 (6400m) overnight, with returns to base camp for a well-earned rest! We use 4 intermediate camps at 5900m, 6400m, 6850m and 7400m so that progress is gradual for acclimatising. Once we have acclimatised, a rest of about 4 days at basecamp gives us the strength for a summit push.
FOOD Once we reach Samagown (by helicopter), we will be eating food from our own supplies. When staying above BC: i.e. during the main climbing forays, breakfast, lunch and dinner will be a combination of boil-in-the-bag meals and snack bars, noodles, biscuits/cakes, soups, tea/coffee, hot chocolate, cordial. Normally appetite is diminished at altitude, but food will be stocked on the basis of a full appetite.
THE CLIMBING The trek from Samagown to Base Camp is over rough paths with great views. From BC (4800m) to camp 1 (5900m) we climb up moraine and then a glacier, which depending on snow conditions (which will change throughout the expedition) we may have to rope up on or use fixed rope, this trip takes about 4 hours or so. From Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6400) we climb gentle glacial slopes up to a steeper snow slope and the icefall, which we climb with fixed ropes, this takes about 5 hours. Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6800m) is a shorter day (4 hours) up a glacial slope to a high col with spectacular views. From camp 3 to camp 4 takes about 4-5 hours and is up steeper, icier terrain on several fixed ropes to 7400m. From camp 4 we climb to the summit, mostly over gentle snow slopes but with several steeper sections along the way, and this takes 5 or 6 hours. After reaching the summit we will plan to descend to camp 3 or 2 for an overnight rest, and descend to basecamp the following day. All climbing on Manaslu above camp 1 is on glaciated snow and icy slopes, with the steeper sections prepared with fixed rope. Any more heavily crevassed sections will be prepared with fixed rope or traversed whilst roped up in a conventional ‘alpine’ way. BASE CAMP This will be as comfortable as possible given expedition conditions. You will have individual tents with thick sleeping pads and a shared mess tent and a shared comms tent. There will be three tasty and nutritious meals a day included, plus
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WHEN AT BASE CAMP AND SAMAGOWN: This food will be eaten during rest days and during acclimatisation forays when we are overnighting in BC/ Samagown. It will be a very tasty and plentiful diet. Example Breakfast: Cereals, porridge, eggs, powdered milk, bread/toast, bacon. Example Lunch: A hot meal or sandwiches, cheese, jam, meat. Snack bars. Example Evening: Soup, rice dishes, curry, spaghetti dishes, potatoes, homemade pizza, chips, lasagne etc. There will be plenty of fresh vegetables and meat every day, and puddings. There will be some fresh fruit and tinned fruit, nuts, butter, cheese and a variety of sauces. Drinks include: Tea, coffee, cordial, hot chocolate, water. Some soft drinks and beer are available at a small cost. PLEASE let us know your snack bar preferences and whether you are vegetarian or not on the booking form. Also let us know any favourite dishes, so we can stock accordingly. The snack bar stock can be supplemented in Kathmandu with western brand bars, if you anticipate eating a lot of them. TEMPERATURES Below BC it will be warm/hot during good weather and cooler in the evenings (light clothing). At BC in the middle of the day, in good weather it will be warm (light clothing), but in poor weather/not in the sun and at night it will be cold (down jacket, trousers, hat etc). It can snow at this level. When above BC and moving, clothing needs will vary from just a thermal top to full down clothing as we get higher. Out of the sun and in the evenings it will be cold, requiring down clothing.
THE NATURE OF EXPEDITIONS Our guides, agent and Sherpa’s will do their best to make the expedition smooth and successful, but please note that expeditions to the Himalayas are remote and a team experience. During the trip all team members will need to work together and get involved in various aspects of organisation, camp life and climbing life. The success of individuals and harmony of the trip as a whole is dependent on this team effort. In addition, please remember that climbing an 8000m peak is inherently arduous and hazardous for everyone. In remote areas it is very important to make sure you are healthy and avoid injury, as medical facilities will not be close-by. Evacuation due to injury/illness is difficult and may take several days. In particular try and make sure you are healthy before departure by having a check-up with your GP and avoid illness early in the trip by only drinking boiled/bottled water/drinks and avoiding unpasteurised milk. Guiding and climbing on 8000m peaks is not the same as climbing and guiding in the Alps or UK. There will be fixed ropes on difficult, exposed and crevassed sections of the climb and sometimes we may rope up as a team due to conditions at the time (e.g. bad weather or lots of fresh snow), but there may be times when it is appropriate or desirable for individuals to move between camps or stay in a camp unsupervised. This is where your previous mountaineering experience comes into play, in addition to instruction given at base camp (how to use radios, fixed ropes and oxygen). SUMMIT DAY On summit day you will be accompanied at all times, either by a guide or Sherpa. Please be aware disruption to the expedition itinerary may occur for a number of reasons outside of our control. These could range from bad weather, landslides to strikes, civil unrest to illness or injury. In the same way, due to the expedition environment, we cannot guarantee that communication equipment such as computers will work all the time. Therefore, you may not be able to communicate with home or sponsors for periods of time. We will be also be immersed in a different local culture so please respect this with sensible dress and politeness.
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15. Thick weather proof gloves (i.e. as used in Alps) - consider a spare pair too –light speed/spearhead glove In general, we use and endorse Mountain Hardware products because in our experience they are excellent, so in some cases we’ve recommended particular items of their kit. If you go to a good retailer such as Snow & Rock, explain to them you will be climbing Manaslu and they will be able to advise you on what is best for you. Bring this list with you. Trekking/Travelling T-shirts trousers - Trek pant/pack pant underwear & socks shorts, trainers/sandals, lightweight trekking boots for walk in umbrella, plastic bed sheet
16. 2 x pair’s thin gloves - Power stretch 17. 3 x sets of socks 18. Double plastic mountaineering boots (Scarpa vega, High altitude) with over boots (forty below purple haze) or Olympus mons type boot 19. Gaiters - make sure they fit over boots - FTX ventigaiter or ascent stretch gaiter 20. 2 x pairs Sunglasses - Maximum UV protection (category 4) 21. Goggles
CLIMBING CLOTHING
22. Neoprene facemask
1. 2 x thermal tops (light coloured preferably)
23. Boot heaters (Thermic make good ones) * On Everest a down suit is necessary. On Manaslu a suit is nice but not necessary. If buying a suit, you still need a down jacket (subzero) and it is nice to have chugach 3Dpants for base camp. If you are not buying a suit you will need a warmer down jacket (absolute zero) for on the hill and it is nice to have a lighter down jacket (e.g. a sub-zero) for base camp. Chugach pants will do for base camp and on the hill, but you should consider taking absolute zero pants for summit.
2. 1 x long johns – (power stretch tight) 3. Fleece trousers/salopettes 4. Soft shell/schoeller fabric trousers optional – (Tanglewood softshell pant) 5. Thin fleece top - Microchill zip T 6. Thick fleece top - monkey man 7. Down duvet jacket/pants - sub-zero jacket and absolute zero pants* 8. Down suit or jacket - (absolute zero suit or parka and pants)* 9. Goretex jacket and trousers - roomy but not tent-like – argon/beryllium/xenon/pinnacle jacket and argon ice/ pinnacle pants 10. Warm windproof hat - Wind stopper microdome 11. Balaclava - Power stretch, butter or windstopper flex balaclava 12. Sun hat 13. Scarf/neckerchief - to keep sun off neck 14. Big Mitts - absolute zero mitt (to fit over thin/power stretch gloves)
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24. Insulated mug 25. Stuff sacks/large plastic bags to keep kit dry and stored CLIMBING GEAR AND KIT FOR BASE CAMP 1. 30l daysack for walk in 2. 60+l rucksack for climbing (carrying sleeping bag, spare clothing, food, water) minimal straps, light, comfortable. Crux and macpac make good rucksacks 3. Duffel bag (useful for portering and storing kit at basecamp) 4. Trekking poles 5. Sleeping bag - down 5 seasons. Two sleeping bags are highly recommended (one to be left in high camps) - e.g. ghost SL (-40) for high camps, 2nd bag rated to -20 for BC. 6. Sleeping bag liner (optional) 7. Thermarest - full length 8. Karrimat/ridgerest sleeping pad (optional) 9. Water bottles - for 2l. Nalgene recommended. Platypus/ camelbak not recommended except for up to BC. 10. Water bottle insulators - by outdoor research 11. Urine bottle - wide necked Nalgene 12. Head torch - LED and long range bulbs. Spare lightweight one useful - petzl tikka or tikka XP 13. Sunscreen - factor 30+ 14. Lip salve - 2 or 3 15. Penknife 16. Spare batteries - lithium work better in the cold 17. Wet wipes 18. Foot powder 19. Travel towel 20. Travel wash -To wash your small items at basecamp 21. Toiletries 22. Books to read 23. IPod
26. Duffel bag (useful for portering and storing kit at base camp) 27. Personal First Aid Kit - lots of painkillers (codeine, paracetamol, and ibuprofen), diamox (for altitude sickness), strepsils, blister kit, plasters, dioralyte, immodium, antiseptic cream (savlon). 2 x courses of antibiotics recommended (for chest and bowels). Low dose aspirin to help ‘thin’ your blood (consult your doctor first) 28. Personal Repair Kit – This should include a sewing kit, thermarest repair stuff, spare parts and adjustment tools for crampons. Spare buckles, prussik cord, duct tape and spare boot laces CLIMBING HARDWARE 1. Walking Ice Axe 60-70cm (unless you are very short!) - petzl snow walker 2. Crampons - make sure they fit with over boots plus antiball plates - not aluminium 3. Harness - adjustable waist and legloops - to fit over clothing 4. 1 x jumar 5. 4 metres of 8mm dynamic climbing cord 6. Belay plate (or figure 8) 7. 4 x wide gate screwgate karabiners - Easy to use with gloves on 8. 4 x snap link karabiners 9. Helmet (optional) - we don’t take them. 10. 2x Prussic loops 11. Ropeman (e.g. Wildcountry) Remember hands and feet are important - keep them warm! Hand warmers can be useful. Down kit should be baffle sewn and not sewn-through stitching.
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COURSE RATIO: Approx 1:1 on Sherpas or leaders ABILITY LEVEL: 4 FITNESS LEVEL: D WHAT THE PRICE INCLUDES: Guides’ fees and expenses, peak permit / fees, Sherpa’s, 2 bottles of oxygen per person, emergency oxygen, base camp setup, ropes, tents, cooking equipment/fuel, base camp and hill food (minus your supplements), internal transport (including airport transfers), hotel accommodation in Kathmandu according to itinerary, hotels/accommodation in transit according to the itinerary, meals in transit (except lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu), group medical kit, communication equipment, Samagown helicopter flights (if available and within budget), internal transport of up to 35kg of personal kit to and from basecamp. NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICE: Visa costs, airport taxes, any personal shipping, international flights, insurance, Sherpa summit bonus (approx US $500-700 per Sherpa), early/late departure costs from base camp (e.g. additional accommodation in Kathmandu, extra helicopter flights), internet time (per megabyte), satellite phone calls (per minute), personal equipment as set out in kit list, drinks (except boiled water) in transit, meals/ accommodation outside the itinerary, sightseeing trips. GETTING TO KATHMANDU In order to retain flexibility we offer a land-only package and you should arrange your own flights. We
recommend doing this as soon in advance as possible, as flights to Nepal can get quite busy. We would also recommend purchasing flexible flight tickets rather than non-refundable, non-changeable tickets. If flying via Delhi, you will need to organise an Indian visa well in advance – please note you CANNOT obtain a transit visa on arrival in Delhi. Our service includes an airport transfer to your hotel in Kathmandu, so let us know your flight details and we will pick you up from the airport. STATE OF THE ART SUPPORT FOR YOUR MANASLU CLIMB Including; - Approx. 1:1 Sherpa/leader: Climber ratio - 2x4l bottles of oxygen with TopOut mask - Tasty, varied, plentiful and hygienically prepared food by our basecamp cooks - Very comfortable base camp set up with all modern expedition facilities - Unparalleled leadership from Kenton Cool/Guy Willett and our Dream Guides team of leaders OUR SHERPA’S ARE SECOND TO NONE Our Sherpa team all come from Pangboche in the Khumbu and are some of the most experienced around. They all speak good English, are well versed in mountaineering techniques, are well versed in oxygen systems and have a proven, enviable record on Everest and other 8000m peaks - each Sherpa with multiple summits. Above all, they are our climbing partners and friends, having worked with us for a number of years.
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PASSPORTS AND VISAS Everyone visiting Nepal must have a full passport and entry visa. You can apply for your visa in advance from the Nepalese embassy in your home country, or you can obtain one on arrival at Kathmandu airport. For this you will need a passport photo and cash (dollars are preferable, but euros & sterling are also accepted). The current price of visa on arrival is £20, please bring 4 spare passport photos and ensure your passport is valid for at least 6 months after your return to the UK, and has 3 blank pages. Up to date information is available at www.travcour.com. VACCINATIONS AND HEALTH You should consult your doctor 3 months before departure for up to date information about vaccination requirements, but we would recommend the following vaccinations: Polio, Tetanus, Typhoid, Hepatitis A. If you are intending to extend your trip to visit the Terai region of Nepal (including Chitwan National Park) you might consider malaria prophylaxis. ISSUES FOR YOUR GP: 1. Discuss the pros and cons of taking low dose aspirin at altitude 2. For women: We don’t recommend taking oral contraceptives on expedition - they can lead to thrombrosis. 3. Discuss management of any long term ailments / illnesses you may have. 4. We would advise bringing antibiotics for chest / bowel infections for your personal first aid kit. Please be thorough when filling out our medical form. We would also recommend visiting your dentist before a long trip to altitude.
MEDICAL KIT Please see the kit list for personal first aid kit requirements. If you are prone to an ailment, then please come prepared. The group kit will be comprehensive and include emergency drugs for high altitude illnesses, anaphylaxis, trauma and infections. There will also be a supply of miscellaneous items to cover common ailments (Strepsils, bandages, painkillers, electrolyte replacement). COMMUNICATIONS AND POWER There will be a satellite phone and laptop internet access at basecamp via a Bgan (i.e. almost broadband), which is charged per person at the end of the trip, based on personal usage during the expedition. Base camp and climber communication will be maintained with handheld Icom radios with a base station. This enables comms between base camp and climbers, and climber to climber. A group laptop will be available in base camp. You may bring your own, but they may not work at altitude/under expedition conditions. Power is from large solar panels at base camp. You will be able to recharge batteries, cameras etc, and plug in electrical appliances. SKIING If you are an expert skier with considerable ski touring experience, skiing from the summit is an option. Please discuss this with Guy Willett before booking. MONEY AND TIPPING We recommend bringing cash and credit cards - there are many ATM machines in Kathmandu. We would also recommend bringing 1000$ in cash, as a contingency during the trip (also covers visas/airport taxes/tips). Dollars can readily be exchanged into rupees locally. If you plan to spend cash on souvenirs etc, you will need more. Tipping the local staff in Nepal is standard - your guide will assist with organising and collecting this. The international departure tax from Nepal is currently 1695 rupees. If you have any questions regarding this trip, please contact us through the website; www.dreamguides.com. We look forward to hearing from you! DREAM-GUIDES.COM INFO@DREAM-GUIDES.COM . +44 (0) 845 564 52 19