but we have to trust our instinct and Graham’s pictures of the Lyngenfjord, to find some ice lines. It’s hard to find out whether we’re doing first ascents or not, but to be honest it doesn’t really matter. It’s an adventure of its own to go out in this absolute wilderness – to simply search for a line and then decide to climb it. Because we do not find any signs of former ascents, we name and grade all the lines we climb. The second day brings us to the Kafjorddalen where we find a hidden line that turns out to be a small but worthwhile icefall – climbing the 130 meters of ‘Gullyvers Reisen’ WI5 is a real pleasure. The next morning we decide to have an early start. We take the ferry to Lyngseidet, where two lines, shimmering in bluish-green and gold, have been waiting on us since we first got here. In comparably mild temperatures of -12° C (10° F) we climb ‘Goldrush’ 200m, WI5+ and ‘Rapunzel’ 230m WI5. Hannes and Klaus work hard snowshoeing on steep terrain to finally play us into the gallery with the amazing landscape. We’re lucky to get stunning views on the top of the Fjord just before the day turns into night and masses
70 Degrees North
the next day. According to the weather prognosis, the cold should have already moved back to Russia, but the air is still shimmering in cold blue and icy tones. Our next goal is already set at the back of the canyon, where masses of water fall down and make their way into it – they tell us that ‘Storfossen’ is frequently visited by tourists in summer. In winter nobody apart from us seems to be interested or even approaching the ice fall. In extreme cold periods a totally strange formation is built that continuously changes due to the enormous pressure of the constantly falling water. Obviously we’re at the right place, even at the right time. Warming up, we climb the free-standing parts of ‘Kälteschock’ 80m WI6 X. Our pulse rises when we abseil down. Benni and I know exactly what is expecting us right now. A few hundred meters back, an ice spitting, 150 meter high monster is awaiting us. On the way there we already start to feel the danger that fills the air. All over the canyon countless blocks of ice lie broken off the monster, as big as cars. The fall itself looks rather bizarre with tons of ice hanging unstable in the wall. It’s not that easy to find an obvious
All over the canyon countless blocks of ice lie broken off the monster, as big as cars. of snow start tumbling down. In complete darkness we make our way home, accompanied by greenish-purple Northern lights that make a perfect day complete. Far and wide, no soul can be seen in this snowstorm and the drive to the Spesiell Canyon becomes an adventure on its own. Benni and I start exploring the canyon step by step. At some places the gorge is only a few meters wide, but up to 200 meters high. It’s likely to get claustrophobic in here. We find a great variety of lines and decide to climb one of the most beautiful ones, the thin and steep ‘Manner mag man eben’ 120m M6, WI5+. Looking at the temperatures of -19° C (-2° F) it’s a quick and unanimous decision to rest
safe way through the monster. We decide to be light and fast and after an exhausting ascent we reach the top of ‘Storfossen’ WI7-, one of the most demanding icefalls we’ve climbed so far. Thrilled by all the first-class ice climbing, we go and get original Norwegian salmon and a crate of cups (Norwegian sort of beer). The trip draws to a close and we’re watching out for some relaxed climbs close by. The sun is directly lighting the formations of a new spot we call ‘roadside’. We’re struck by an extraordinary line right in its centre and our relaxing day turns out to end in some serious climbing again. Thin layers of ice on the overhanging wall and freestanding icicles
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