01// A forest of volcanic rock spread over several square kilometres. Hatun Machay, a dream turned to stone at 4,300 metres above sea level. 02// The guys enjoy the last rays of sunlight before the bitterly cold night sets in. 03// Dani cruises to the exit hold on the horn of the “Rino”.
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The Sphinx
Their Toyota crept and wound its way around numerous bumpy hairpins on the road to Parón Valley. They passed small farmsteads through a wooden barrier, and continued up the serpentine road to Parón Lake. They parked and began their two-hour hike to La Esfinge. Finally, Dani and Edu stood at the base. “And? Have I promised you too much?” “That’s pretty big,” is all that Dani could muster. The humble respect in his voice was unmistakable. It was Dani’s first time in a mountain landscape of such monumental dimensions, and his awe was not out of place. Although the journey had only taken a few hours, the guys were now fully immersed in the high, committing world of alpine climbing. “Look, that’s where our line goes.” The duo had come to climb Via del 85 (5.11c), which was first ascended in 1985 by Antonio Gómez “Sevi” Bóhorquez and Onofre Garcia. Over 750 metres of the finest granite and right at the top of the wish list. “If there is one climb that we have to do, then it is this one,” Edu had said on more than just one occasion. They started approaching the next morning. The upper reaches of the Sphinx was bathing in the
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we see how climbing is a passion that comes into its element when it is shared and for that very reason, climbing knows no social, geographic or material boundaries. The next afternoon, Edu, Dani and Chuki ventured to the unique rocks of Hatun Machay experience some of Chuki’s first ascents. Chuki had spent the previous year notching up a load of first ascents and exploring potential lines. An unusual thing about this rock paradise is that you can reach it by public transport using the so-called collectivos. One and a half hours after departure from Huaraz, the four debarked from the bus and stood in a beautiful green paradise at almost 4,300 metres. It was not just the altitude that took their breath away, but also the gobsmacking view. On a virtually never-ending plateau covered with yellow grass there were thousands of rock pinnacles in the most bizarre shapes with the weirdest surfaces. Chicken heads, honeycombs, typhoon-like twisters, mosaics in quartz – there was nothing you could not find in this stone garden. Apart from a couple of shepherds tending their flock who lived in self-built straw huts at the foot of the rocks, the climbing area of Hatun Machay felt deserted. “It’s like we’re on the moon,” said Dani. “Simply out of this world.” After a full day on the rock and a chilled Peruvian night in the refuge, it was clear to the Spaniards that Hatun Machay “has good vibes”. Although you could spend half a lifetime climbing in Hatun Machay and never get bored, the trio made their way back to Huaraz. Before they headed into the hills, Chuki reckoned there was something important for them to do first: “If you want to experience the full-on culture of a country, then you have to party with the locals!” Edu and Dani exchanged glances. Nothing easier than that. As dusk fell, the nightlife in Huaraz began pulsating. People flowed onto the streets, their voices filling the air. A brass band rounded a corner, playing music. Dani glanced into a small hallway where partygoers beckoned them inside. They danced, sang and drank. Dani, Edu and Chuki were made to feel as welcome as if they were part of the family. They were led onto a circuit of local bars, of which there are many. The night ended as they stumbled into the X-treme Bar at four in the morning, arm in arm with an entire town of new friends.