Wine Journal January/February 2016

wine journal Ja nu a r y/ Febr u a r y 2016

ABC F I N E W I N E & SPI R ITS W I N E MAGA ZI N E

German Riesling isn’t just for somms anymore

BERGEVIN L ANE BRINGS

THE BOOM IN WASHINGTON WINES Deconstructing Valentine’s Day wines

The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2016 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Allie Smallwood Editor allies@abcfws.com Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com

“Anyone who tries to make you believe that he knows all about wines is obviously a fake.”

- Leon Adams, The Commonsense Book of Wine

OUR WINE EXPERTS: Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine and Spirits Supervisor Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine and Spirits Supervisor Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine and Spirits Supervisor Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine and Spirits Supervisor Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine and Spirits Supervisor Dan Eddy Northeast Florida Wine and Spirits Supervisor Heather Burton East Florida Wine and Spirits Supervisor If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Jennifer Baker (JenniferB@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list.

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BERGEVIN LANE The essence of Washington wine shines at Bergevin Lane.

TOAST TO PRESIDENT’S DAY Our nation’s history is steeped in more than just tea.

INDULGE IN SOME HIDDEN TREASURES Life is short. Drink good wine.

HEARTY SOUPS & HEARTIER WINE Put Alaskan seafood chowder and buttery Chardonnays on your to-do list.

VALENTINE’S DAY MADE SIMPLE The best picks for a night of sweet, sweet wine loving.

THE BLACK WINE OF CAHORS The oldest vineyards in France yield mesmerizing Malbec.

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DO YOU WANT TO BUILD A CELLAR PART II: THE INTERMEDIATE We think you’re ready for level two of cellar expertise.

EDUCATION NEVER TASTED SO FINE A magical evening of eats, drinks and brain power at Taste for Learning.

GERMAN RIESLING – A DRY REVELATION Few other wines reflect the beauty of terroir like this gem.

WINE TO WATCH: AÑO VERDE PINOT NOIR A Californian offering light in body but impactful on the palate.

Bergevin Lane MEGHAN GUARINO • @ABCWINECOUNTRY • MEGHANG@ABCFWS.COM

W

from three separate vineyards exclusive to

He attributes the balanced natural acidity

of about 31,000 people (according to the

Bergevin Lane and cares for their own estate

to the diurnal shift in temperature in the

2010 census), is situated in the southeast

vineyard as well. The differences in soil and

region. Walla Walla is known for its hot days

corner of the state, just north of the Oregon

location alone are enough to give the team

and cool evenings. Annette explained, “We

border. In fact, the township is so close to

a wide palette to work with when blending

have 300 days of sun per year; our diurnal

the border that the Walla Walla AVA slips

their wines, while maintaining a uniquely

shift is some of the most dramatic fluctua-

into Oregon for the warmest growing areas

Washington profile throughout.

tions of any wine region in the world. We

alla Walla, Washington, a small town

of the designated region, a place where

can have up to a 40 degree difference in

Syrah grows particularly well.

temperatures from our highs to our lows in a day, and that gives us ripe sugars and crisp

The area north of the border, however, is

acidity. It all adds to the wonderful aspects

considered responsible for the initial boom

of the grapes.”

in Washington wines. It is here, in the heart of Walla Walla, that Bergevin Lane found its

While Annette and Dave are happy to attri-

home in 2002.

bute the success of Bergevin Lane largely to the sumptuous fruit available, the Washing-

“It was a dream of mine to move back home

ton wine industry itself cannot be overlooked.

to Walla Walla,” co-founder Annette Ber-

Revived in the 1970s, this industry continues

gevin told me one afternoon. With a father

to see rapid growth and interest among wine

deep in the business of grapes (he helped

drinkers everywhere.

launch the vineyard side of Canoe Ridge Vineyards nearly 28 years ago) and a home

“If you would have asked me 20 years ago

in Sonoma County, it was only a matter

where we were going to be, or 10 years ago,

of time before Annette longed to open a

I wouldn’t have come up with the scenario

winery herself. “I kind of did all of life’s

we are seeing in reality,” Dave said. “The

major changes in one fell swoop,” she said of

growth has been explosive.” It is true that

returning home. “I sold a house, did a major

the growth is in part due to the grapes, but

relocation and decided to have a baby,” all

a lot of it has to do with the people behind

while diving right into opening a winery

the wines. Concentrating on the craft and

that would go on to produce highly-rated

making wines better, bolder, more balanced

wines from a booming wine region in the U.S.

And that is what makes Bergevin Lane a

Cabernet Sauvignon is the most widely

winery you must explore. The wines crafted

planted grape varietal in Walla Walla,

there are so quintessentially “Washington”

though Merlot makes up at least a quarter

that with a single sip you are suddenly en-

of the vineyards with a number of red and

veloped in the character, charm and flavor of

white varietals filling out the AVA. At Ber-

the state. “It’s that natural acidity,” winemak-

gevin Lane, the wines are made up of grapes

er Dave Harvey told me when I asked what

on their laurels here.”

from several vineyards across the state. “We

defined a Washington wine. “You can make

For a taste of Washington’s burgeoning

have this huge spread of terroir that we can

acidity—you can put acidity in your wines—

industry, try Bergevin Lane wines, available

play with back at the winery,” Dave said,

but there’s this balance between malic and

at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits locations across

explaining that the winery sources grapes

tartaric and citric acid that you really

the state.

and chalk-full of Washington has earned the region the attention it deserves. “It’s this continual raising of the bar,” Dave said. “And that’s not just for Bergevin Lane, it’s for the whole industry in Washington. Everybody has that same philosophy. Nobody’s resting

can’t replicate.” wine journal | 3

WINE LIST RED

WHITE

Cabutto Barolo Vigna La Volta 2011 (p 13)

Fault Line Chardonnay (p 7) Maison Champy Pernand-Vergelesses 2012 (p 13)

BAROLO

DOLCETTO

Chionetti San Luigi Dolcetto di Dogliani (p 6)

MALBEC

Château de Haute-Serre Malbec 2010 (p 11) Gouleyant Malbec (p 11) Icône of Château de Haute-Serre 2009 (p 10)

NERO D’AVOLA

Caruso & Minini Nero d’Avola (p 6)

PINOT NOIR

Año Verde Pinot Noir (p 16) Domaine Dubois Nuits-Saint- Georges 2012 (p 12)

PORT

Serafino Tawny Port (p 9)

SANGIOVESE

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino 2009 (p 13)

RED BLEND

Apulia’s Anarkos Primitivo Blend (p 9) Château Gigognan Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Clos du Roi’ 2012 (p 13) Clos Floridène Rouge 2010 (p 12) La Gravette De Certan 2010 (p 12) Les Chênes de Macquin 2011 (p 12) Pauillac de Lynch-Bages 2010 (p 12) Podere Sapaio Bolgheri Superior 2006 (p 6) Xavier Vins Gigondas 2010 (p 13)

NAPA ZINFANDEL

Ca’ Momi Zinfandel (p 9)

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CHARDONNAY

RIESLING

PJ Valckenberg Weingut Liebfrauenstift Dry Riesling (p 13, 15) Schloss Reinhartshausen Old Vines Dry Riesling (p 15) Selbach Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken (p 15) Selbach Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese (p 13)

WHITE BLEND

Bai Gorri White Rioja (p 7) Cascina Chicco Arneis Cru AnterisioArneis (p 6) Domaine des Sénéchaux Châteauneuf- de-Pape Blanc (p 7) Ghiraldi “Il Gruccione” Lugana (p 6) L’Esprit de Chevalier White 2010 (p 12)

SPARKLING

Faubourg 21 Brut Chardonnay (p 8) Faubourg 21 Premier Rosé (p 8) Giorgi Costarosa (p 8) Giorgi Pink Platino (p 8) Giorgi Platino Brut (p 8)

A Toast to President’s Day and a Salute to Wine in American History!

BILL STOBBS • @ABCWINEBILLS • WSTOBBS@ABCFWS.COM

Wine has been with us in American history

presented to the draftees of the Declaration of

fine wine in America, though unfortunately

from the very beginning of western colonization.

Independence at a gathering to celebrate the

he was not very successful.

Five hundred years before the era of Christopher

signing. The bill was for 54 bottles of Madeira,

Columbus, when Leif Eriksson explored coastal

60 bottles of Claret (Bordeaux), 22 bottles of

North America, he named it Vínland because

port, 8 bottles of whiskey, 8 bottles of hard cider,

of the many grapevines he encountered there.

12 beers and 7 bowls of alcoholic punch large

It is also rumored that the real reason the pilgrims

enough that “ducks could swim in them.” And

dropped anchor at Plymouth Rock was not

this was all for 56 delegates!

because of its fine location but because they had run out of alcohol aboard ship.

George Washington loved wine in general and Madeira in particular. It is reported that he

Special mention should also be given to John Quincy Adams who enjoyed wine so much that he once named 11 out of 14 Madeiras correctly in a blind taste test.

Moving up to more recent times, Lyndon B. Johnson was the first American president to exclusively pour American wine at the White House. Richard Nixon reluctantly followed suit

Be that as it may, wine played an important part

drank a bottle of Madeira a day, and at parties

in the daily life of American colonists, where it

and dances would easily consume four bottles of

was regarded as a healthful cure-all, a warmer-

wine. Other beverages also won his favor. After

upper in cold weather, a pick-me-up, and a

retiring from politics he returned to Mount

contributor to stimulating conversation. It was

Vernon and built first a brewery, and then a

also considered (and probably was at the time)

distillery that became, at the time, the largest

healthier to drink than water.

producer of whiskey in the U.S.

Madeira, the fortified wine from the Portuguese

Thomas Jefferson was well-known as a wine

sparkling wine (Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc

island off the coast of Morocco, was the favorite

aficionado. In fact, much of the Declaration of

1969) instead of Champagne. He was also the

wine of the American colonists and remained

Independence was written by Jefferson in a

first president to pour Zinfandel (Boeger) at an

so right up to the time of the American Civil

tavern in Philadelphia while sipping on Madeira.

official event, and he was well-known for his

War. In fact the American colonies consumed

As ambassador to France in the 1780s he gained

admiration of the wines of Beaulieu Vineyards,

as much as one-quarter of all the wine produced

a deep appreciation for the wines of France,

Sterling and Stag’s Leap.

on the island each year. Five years before the

Italy, Spain and Portugal and, apart from all else,

Boston Tea Party there was a similar uproar

became wine advisor to George Washington,

when British authorities seized John Hancock’s

James Madison and James Monroe. During his

sloop the Liberty and unloaded 3,150 gallons

years as president he had a wine cellar built be-

of Madeira because of unpaid import duties.

neath the White House and stocked it with over

An idea of just how important wine was to Americans at the time is suggested by the bill

20,000 bottles, spending $11,000 (which would

though he much preferred Château Margaux and Bernkasteller Doktor which was always served to him in a napkin-covered bottle while the rest of the party drank indifferent California wine. Finally, Ronald Reagan was a keen supporter of the American wine industry.

He was the first president to serve American

So this President’s Day, whether it’s Madeira, Château Margaux or Beaulieu Vineyards, please raise a glass of wine to honor our illustrious American presidents. They might very well have done the same for you!

be about $200,000 today) on wine. Jefferson was also an important pioneer in the cultivation of

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Indulge in Some

HIDDEN TREASURES PAUL QUAGLINI • @ABCWINEPAULQ • PAULQ@ABCFWS.COM

O

nce again I find myself at the start of a new

the Dolcetto grape is king and Chionetti is one

year wondering what happened to the last one.

of the top producers. Antonio Galloni of The

It’s easy to feel melancholic about the fact that

Wine Advocate described this wine perfectly:

time is fleeting, especially if Willie Nelson’s

“The 2012 Dogliani San Luigi wraps around

soulful song, “Funny how time slips away” is

the palate with dark raspberries, crushed flowers,

your background music of choice. But enough

licorice and cinnamon. Racy, perfumed and

of that despaired talk; rather than lament the

beautifully expressive for Dogliani, the 2012

inevitable we should all use this as a rationality

delivers all the richness Dolcetto is renowned

to celebrate life to its fullest each and every day.

for here but in a decidedly feminine, gracious style that is impossible not to love. Firm yet

For me, celebrating life includes trying as many

well-integrated tannins support the finish. 91

unique and inspiring wines as I can. You can

points.” $20

fill in the blank with just about any corny cliché but life truly is too short to drink bad wine.

Caruso & Minini Nero d’Avola – Our next

After all, that is what wine ultimately should be:

wine takes us to the island of Sicily. Sicily has

one of life’s gratifying indulgences.

the most vineyards of any Italian wine region

The following is a short list of some Italian hidden treasures that you might have missed in 2015.

An indigenous grape variety most often called Turbiana or Trebbiano di Lugana is what the wines of Lugana are composed of. Whatever name we assign to the grape variety, Ghiraldi’s

and the most widely planted grape varietal is Nero d’Avola. Caruso & Minini’s Nero d’Avola has aromas of red flowers, sour cherry, ripe cherries and licorice. This wine is full-bodied with healthy acidity and a background of silky

Cascina Chicco Arneis Cru Anterisio – Arneis

Lugana is a medium to full-bodied white wine

(are-NAYS) is, for my taste, the best of the dry

with intense luscious fruit flavors wrapped up

white wines from the Piedmont region of Italy.

in mouth-watering acidity. Try this the next

In the local dialect it translates as “Little Rascal”

time you’re searching for that perfect seafood

Podere Sapaio Bolgheri Superior 2006 –

because it is notoriously difficult to grow. By

wine. $19

Bolgheri is the home of some of Italy’s most

the early 1970s it was on the verge of extinction with only a handful of producers determined to produce quality Arneis.

Today there is an explosion of interest in this fussy, hard-to-grow grape variety. Cascina Chicco’s Arneis is a fragrant wine with notes of apricots and apples followed by notes of chamomile and spice in the mouth. Well balance with good complexity and a lingering finish.

I can’t get enough of this little rascal. $23 Ghiraldi “Il Gruccione” Lugana – Lugana is hardly a household name for most wine enthusiasts. This small production zone at the southern end of Lake Garda is a mere 1,482 acres in size with just over 100 producers.

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Chionetti San Luigi Dolcetto di Dogliani – Back to Piedmont for my next pick. More specifically the small town of Dogliani where

tannins that makes it hard to resist pouring your next glass. $18

iconic and expensive wines. The combination of warm temperatures, sea breezes and complex soils along the Tuscan coast provide near perfect conditions for Bordeaux-style blends.

Sassicaia, Ornellaia and Masseto have evolved into wines for a rock star budget but there are also more reasonably priced wines from Bolgheri. Podere Sapaio produced a classic in the 2006 vintage. $70 If you’d like more suggestions follow me on Twitter @abcwinepaulq or just shoot me an email (paulq@abcfws.com) and we can share our love of wine together.

Hearty Soups & Heartier Wine PETE SHIPLEY • WINE & SPIRITS CONSULTANT • GAINESVILLE

Enjoy the cooler weather with an Alaskan twist on New England clam chowder.

Pair it with a white Châteauneuf or a big Chardonnay.

PAIRS WELL WITH

SEAFOOD CHOWDER 1 cup Smoked salmon, flaked 1 cup Clams, chopped 1 cup Oysters, shucked ½ lb Bacon, for drippings and topping 2 cups Potatoes, cubed and pre-cooked 1 Large onion, chopped

Bai Gorri White Rioja

2 Stalks celery, chopped

$26

3 Cloves garlic, chopped 2 cups Heavy cream 4-6 cups Half-n-Half Garnish: Chives, sour cream and crumbled bacon

PREPARATION In a large stock pot or Dutch oven, fry the bacon until crispy. Remove bacon and set aside.

(Crumble bacon up into bits for the topping.) Leave about a tablespoon of bacon grease in the bottom of the pot. Sauté the onion and celery about 8-10 minutes or until clear. Add the garlic and sauté for 3-4 minutes.

Add the half-n-half and stir. Add the seafood, pre-cooked potatoes and bring to a simmer

Fault Line Sonoma Coast Chardonnay $25

(being careful not to scorch it). Simmer on very low heat for 10 minutes. Serve in bowls and top with a dollop of sour cream, sprinkle with chives and bacon bits.

Domaine des Sénéchaux Châteaunuefdu-Pape Blanc $46

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Valentine’s Day Made Simple DANIEL EDDY • @ABCWINEDANE • DANE@ABCFWS.COM

Y

shimmering, mirror bottles: Platino and

will be very soon: “What’s the best wine for

Pink Platino. Both are made from Pinot Nero

Valentine’s Day?” We all want an easy answer,

grapes (Pinot Noir to the rest of the world)

but life rarely gives us easy answers, so I will.

and are $20 per bottle. The Platino is a “blanc

“Whatever your Valentine loves best!” is the

de noirs” style, or “white from black,” with

truest answer that never gets old. It shows

classic yeasty tones and a hint of wheatberry,

that you care for your romantic partner and

finishing with some tart fruit on the palate.

that you actually know what they like. That

The Pink Platino is more like a brut rosé,

being said, you can still come up with some-

a pink wine from a red grape source. With

thing new that is in the same category as their

longer skin contact this wine is a little fruitier

favorite—if they love Cabernet Sauvignon,

up front with strawberry and raspberry

keep things fresh and exciting by selecting

flavors but still has a clean and brisk finish.

a Cab from a different locale, like

The flavor is in the bottle but the shiny

South America.

packages really make the wines stand out

ou know you’re thinking it, or certainly

If you truly don’t know what they like (perhaps this is a first date!), then we have

Two similar wines, also with shiny packages,

some safe bets that always seem to please.

come from France: Faubourg 21 Premier

First we can thank the vignerons of Champagne, France, who have trained us over the last couple of centuries to only celebrate with sparkling wine. If we don’t hear that pop!, then it’s just not a special occasion. Luckily Champagne and sparkling wine (the bubbly stuff from everywhere else that is not Champagne) can go with a broad range of tasty treats, from chocolates to pastries to savories, or it can be imbibed all on its own. A good sparkling wine is always a fine Valentine’s Day gift, and though we can go to the classics like Veuve Clicquot, Moët et Chandon,

Brut and Premier Rosé ($17 each). The brut is Chardonnay-based in a shiny golden bottle, while the rosé is Syrah-based in a silver mirror bottle with a pink label. Though brut, they are softer sparkling wines than their Champenois cohorts, making them accessible to more palates. The rosé is a lightly blushing pink color with hints of berries on the nose, while the Premier Brut is more reminiscent of a blanc de blancs with more citrus flavors.

The shining bottles give them a “Mirror, Mirror” appeal making your Valentine the “fairest of them all.”

Perrier-Jouët and Moutard, it might be fun

If sparkling wine is not your Valentine’s favorite

to try something new that also happens to

then let’s consider the other most popular

have a stunning visual appeal.

Valentine’s Day gift, chocolate. What wines

Giorgi, from Lombardy, Italy, is a popular producer of many of our favorite wines, like the Costarosa ($14), a lightly sparkling, sweet red that is perfect for the person who doesn’t usually like red wine. Giorgi happens to make two beautiful sparkling wines that come in

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as an ideal, romantic gift.

pair best with everyone’s favorite sweet treat?

A number of wines, and they don’t have to be sweet. We often talk about cocoa or mocha flavors in dry red wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Malbec, so pairing some of these wines with a box of chocolates makes for a great Valentine’s Day treat. I love Zinfandel

and chocolate, and I find it works well with

Chocolate-maker Brix makes “Chocolate

dark chocolate, where the jamminess of the

for Wine” and even tells you which of their

Zin balances the deeper flavors of the choco-

chocolates pair best with which wines. They

late. Ca’Momi Napa Zinfandel ($15) is an in-

suggest their “Smooth Dark Chocolate” for

credible deal, yet still has the depth, richness

Champagne, Riesling, Pinot Noir and Vintage

and complex flavors that make it interesting

Porto; their “Medium Dark Chocolate” with

to pair with a range of chocolates. If you want

Merlot, Shiraz, Zinfandel, Chianti and Rhône

to explore something similar, think Italian

wines; and their “Extra Dark Chocolate” with

Primitivo-based wines like Apulia’s Anarkos ($15). Primitivo is genetically the same as Zinfandel, but has a different style and finish.

I also love Portuguese Porto wines with chocolate, so pairing up a Late Bottled Vintage Porto or an aged Tawny Porto can make a great Valentine’s Day gift to enjoy after your romantic meal. If you want to explore less traditional options, think of an Aussie Tawny Port, like Serafino ($18). It can pair with

Bordeaux grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, as well as Italian Barolo.

Create a personalized gift basket with chocolates, cheeses or tapenade, if your Valentine is a foodie. If food is not the way into their heart, a pair of crystal wine glasses will set the stage for your celebration. Show your Valentine how much you care this February 14 with a gift you know they’ll love.

almost any style of chocolate from milk to dark, creamy truffles to nutty caramels.

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The Black Wine of Cahors ATANAS NECHKOV • @ABCWINEATANAS • ATANASN@ABCFWS.COM

T

he city of Cahors, tucked into a rounded

nook of the Lot River, is a lovely example of medieval architecture. At the heart of wine country, the city’s most memorable landmark is the Valentré Bridge, a 14th-century fortified stone arch bridge crossing the Lot River.

The Valentré Bridge has become the symbol of the city. Another iconic example of Cahors is the wine made there.

The Icône is the ultimate achievement of the joint efforts of Bertrand-Gabriel Vigouroux, proprietor of several wine estates in the area, including Château de Haute-Serre and Château de Mercuès, and Paul Hobbs, the emblematic world’s-top-Malbec-expert.

Besides producing some of Cahors’s best wines, Bertrand Vigouroux has established The Cahors vineyard, dating back to Roman

one of France’s best Relais & Châteaux

times, is one of the oldest in France. Cahors

(a group of boutique luxury hotels) at

wines are powerful and robust, with deep

Château de Mercuès, where oenotourism-

color that inspired the English term “Black

meets the exquisite, black truffle-inspired

Wine of Cahors.” Adopted by the Orthodox

local cuisine.

Church as Mass wine and the court of the Tsars as ceremonial wine, the Black Wine is becoming increasingly popular with wine enthusiasts of the 21st century to whom it is better known as Malbec.

In fact, Malbec (aka Côt, Côt Noir, Auxerrois, Pressac, etc.) is original to Burgundy but got its fame in Bordeaux and Cahors, source of the world’s best Malbec. Cahors wine can be enjoyed young, or it can be aged for 10 years or longer.

Paul, nicknamed the “flying winemaker,” consults for hundreds of wineries around the world, most notably in California and Mendoza, with his latest projects taking

Icône of Château de Haute-Serre, 2009

him to the oldest vineyards of the world in

($110), is now available at ABC Fine Wine

Eastern Europe. He is passionately involved

& Spirits.

in every one of his projects and that transpires in his engaging personality.

wine journal | 10

The Vigouroux/Hobbs cooperation began

Rosé, both perfect matches for the hot

in 2008 after Bertrand-Gabriel Vigouroux

Florida weather.

visited Mendoza and invited Paul Hobbs to discover Cahors. Bertrand-Gabriel’s natural curiosity is constantly guiding him towards new horizons and discoveries and his obsession for perfection is the driving force behind the latest success of his wines.

At the time when Georges Vigouroux purchased Château de Haute-Serre in 1970, the estate had been abandoned for nearly 100 years subsequent to the phylloxera devastation of the late 19th century. The vineyard of Château de Haute-Serre is a 70-acre single plot of Malbec planted on the slopes of a hill, the top of which marks the highest elevation of the appellation at 1,000 feet.

The 2010 Château de Haute-Serre Malbec exhibits deep purple color and enticing aromas of black currant, blueberries, black truffle and mocha. The palate is generous,

The Icône of Château de Haute-Serre exhibits

balanced and complex, reinforced by rich,

opaque purple-black color and aromas and

spicy oak flavors. This wine is best enjoyed

flavors of black currant, blackberry and

with grilled red meats and truffle-

blue flowers. Full-bodied with solid but

based dishes.

silky and well-integrated tannins, this Malbec has perfect balance and an impressive 30+-second finish. It is best enjoyed with grilled red meats and black truffle-based dishes. Quantities are very limited as total production was only 3,000 bottles.

The 2014 Gouleyant Malbec exhibits saturated ruby red color and aromas and flavors of red berries, black cherry and a touch of spice; medium-bodied, very pleasant on the palate, with fine ripe tannins and supple texture. Enjoy as an aperitif or pair with The other two Malbecs from Georges

mixed salads, white and red meats and

Vigouroux are the 2014 Gouleyant Malbec

aged hard cheeses.

and the 2010 Château de Haute-Serre Malbec. The latest additions are the 2012 Gouleyant white, a blend of Loin de l’Oeil and Sauvignon Blanc from the Gaillac

My personal favorite food and wine pairing?

Gouleyant Malbec with a black truffle omelet. Bon appétit!

appellation, and the 2014 Gouleyant Malbec

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Do You Want to Build a Cellar Part II:

The Intermediate

H E AT H E R B U R T O N • @ A B C W I N E H E AT H E R B • H E AT H E R B @ A B C F W S .C O M

A

s you may have gathered, building up a good wine cellar involves a lot more than simply accumulating bottles. Many experts and critics have opined on what a wine cellar should contain. While the makeup differs slightly, the basic principle is the same: An intermediate level cellar should include age-worthy wines. Old World wines, like those of Bordeaux and Barolo, are vinified to be aged. Most New World wines are usually vinified with softer tannins and higher residual sugar and therefore have a limited shelf life and should be consumed within 3-7 years. But before we go too far, let’s take this opportunity to bridge the gap between simply having wine on hand and having wine that we lay down and age for future enjoyment. To prepare, let’s celebrate the classics that are the pillars of the industry.

L E S C H Ê N E S D E M A C Q U I N 2011 • $43 This is the second wine from Château Pavie-Macquin a Premier Cru Classe B of Saint-Émilion. This Right Bank Bordeaux comprises of 90% Merlot, 8% Cabernet and 2% Cab Franc. This family estate is located on the highest plateau of Saint-Émilion. The clay and limestone soil give the wine power, flesh and generosity.

We begin our trip in Bordeaux. Cabernet and Merlot are used to make the majority of red wines (90% of the vineyard area); Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec are also used for blending. The main varieties used in white Bordeaux are Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, for both dry and sweet wines. Here are a few suggestions to get you started—note that all of these red wines need at least two hours of decanting.

This is the second wine from Vieux Château Certan, one of the oldest Bordeaux wine properties in Pomerol.

PAU I L L A C D E LY N C H-B A G E S 2010 • $45 This wine displays a solid core of cassis, raspberry and blackberry coulis notes, framed by a rather polished structure and lined with lightly toasted apple wood and anise notes. Offers good definition, with a violet note chiming in on the finish. A sleek, elegant Pauillac that relies more on purity than muscle. Best from 2014 through 2023. 91 points, Wine Spectator.

C L O S F L O R I D È N E R O U G E 2010 • $25 This is very pure, with a mix of damson plum, black cherry and red currant fruit all steeped together and backed by a juicy bergamot, toasted spice and licorice notes. There’s nice freshness through the finish, with a tarry edge hanging just in the background. Should age gracefully. Drink now through 2020. 91 points, Wine Spectator.

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L’E S P R I T D E C H E VA L I E R W H I T E 2010 • $30 This is a remarkable wine with a density of fruit that reminds me of a Montrachet from a great vintage. It’s full-bodied, dense and rich—almost oily—but then it turns bright and fresh with a powerful backbone of acidity. A marvel. 99-100 points, James Suckling

L A G R AV E T T E D E C E R TA N 2010 • $63 An equal part blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, it has a deep purple color and a wonderfully sweet nose of raspberries, black cherries, mulberries, licorice and foresty notes. Full-bodied and evolved, this wine has gorgeous texture and remarkable opulence. It can be drunk now or cellared for 10-15 years. 93 points, The Wine Advocate

Next we move to Burgundy. The purpose here is to experience Old World Pinot Noir and Chardonnay the way some experts say it was intended to be.

D O M A I N E D U B O I S N U I T S -S A I N T-G E O R G E S 2012 • $33 This 100% Pinot Noir comes from 30-year-old vines grown in clay and limestone soil. The wine goes through malolactic fermentation and is aged for 15 months in oak before bottling. It has a powerful nose and deep, dark color with flavors of cherries, black currants and spice. It has a finish that is long, round and full. This is what Pinot Noir is all about.

MAISON CHAMPY PERNAND-VERGELESSES 2012 • $33 This is 100% Chardonnay from four different localities owned by Domaine Champy. This wine has a subtle gold hue and beautiful aromatic intensity. The nose opens with notes of citrus, white flowers, wild mint and mineral with a smoky background. The acidity it sharp but fresh and elegant; there is a nice balance between freshness and roundness. The finish is long and persistent with a lovely minerality.

Founded in 1720, Champy is both the first established wine house of Burgundy and a pioneer of the Burgundy vineyard for its rational practice of organic and sustainable farming methods. With winemaker Dimitri Bazas holding the reins it will be tough to find wines that express the nuances of Burgundian terroir better than Champy.

The Rhône Valley is a key wine-producing region in the southeast of France. Using uncommon grape varietals to make wine so rustic yet refined, powerful yet with so much grace, they are an anomaly. Grenache and Syrah are common in their red wines.

German Rieslings are the last of the classics we will cover. Riesling by nature has a high acidity and high residual sugar content which makes these wines ideal for cellaring. Let’s explore wines from the most notable regions: the Mosel and the Rheinhessen.

C H ÂT E AU G I G O G N A N C H ÂT E AU N E U FD U-PA P E ‘C L O S D U R O I’ 2012 • $33 Gigognan is a certified organic estate producing wines of exceptional quality and authenticity. Made from 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, it offers classic Châteauneuf character in its darker berry fruits, truffle, wild herbs and olive-paste aromas and flavors.

Medium to full-bodied, with beautiful richness and depth, it’s an impressive, classic wine that will have 12-15 years of longevity. 91 points, The Wine Advocate

S E L B A C H-O S T E R Z E LT I N G E R S O N N E N U H R S PÄT L E S E • $25 Selbach’s ancestors have been cultivating Riesling in the Mosel since 1600. Selbach is one of the most respected winemakers in the area; his main focus is on quality, picking is done by hand and traditional winemaking is preferred. This late harvest Riesling is from the favorite Sundial vineyard and is a wine with great aging potential.

X AV I E R V I N S G I G O N D A S 2010 • $33 More floral with abundant black fruit, raspberry and crushed rock characteristics, this Gigondas was made from 100% Grenache and came in at 15+% alcohol. …it reveals good elegance, purity and texture as well as a full-bodied mouthfeel. Bigger and richer it should age well for a decade. 92 points, The Wine Advocate There are two kings of Italian wine: Barolo and Brunello. Barolo is made purely of the Nebbiolo grape in the northern Italian region of Piedmont. These wines have a high acidity and tannins and demand patience to age until they are ready, but the joys they deliver are worth the years of waiting. Brunello is made only of Sangiovese Grosso and comes from the area known as Montalcino. Brunello is aged and not released from the winery until 50 months after harvest! Oh, but are they worth it.

PJ VA L C K E N B E R G W E I N G U T L I E B F R AU E NS T I F T D R Y R I E S L I N G • $15 Founded in 1786, the Weingut Liebfrauenstift estate is located in the German wine-growing area of Rheinhessen in the village of Worms. This wine is extremely pleasant, with zesty lime and mineral notes that start on the first sip and carry on through its medium-long finish. It’s a delicious wine with an abundance of character and complexity. The best attribute of this wine is its versatility when pairing with food.

C A B U T T O B A R O L O V I G N A L A V O LTA 2011 • $43 Tenuta La Volta, founded by the Cabutto family in 1920, is situated around the castle of La Volta, overlooking Barolo. Made exclusively of Nebbiolo, this is classic Barolo, matured in oak casks for at least four years. It is a complex and elegant wine destined for a long life in the cellar.

L A G E R L A B R U N E L L O D I M O N TA L C I N O 2009 • $45 The 2009 Brunello opens to a brooding dark color and doesn’t hold back in terms of aromatic intensity.

It starts off with ripe fruit and forest berry then gradually evolves in the glass to make room for licorice, dried herbs and roasted almond. The wine is pointed and pristine with a good level of focus. 90 points, The Wine Advocate wine journal | 13

Education Never Tasted So Fine Atanas and Nick Caramelli of Fattoria La Ripa

SHAYNE HEBERT • @ABCWINESHAYNE • SHAYNEH@ABCFWS.COM

I

n case you didn’t attend the incredible Taste

for Learning event on November 7, you might want to mark your calendar for the next soiree in May 2017. Easily one of the best attended events we sponsor, and certainly the most elegant, this annual fundraiser has it all. From cuisine presented by many of the top eateries in the area, to more wines than you can imagine, including dozens of spirits and cordials, the legend of this event continues to grow not only

I mention there were couches scattered

for Learning, donating their gorgeous resort

throughout? I found them quickly!

venue, food, service and many extras. Over the

The event, which draws hundreds of attendees each year, benefits two local entities, the Valencia Foundation and Orlando Health.

I sat down with the chair of both to chat about

years, dozens of local chefs have contributed their cuisine, and hundreds of vintners and spirits producers have poured their best products to an average of 800 guests.

the benefit of this event for the community

Over the past 10 years, Taste for Learning has

and the importance of the monies raised for

generated nearly $2.9 million, which supported

their cause.

2,600 scholarships for students in need, as well as $300,000 invested in community healthcare.

for the educational funding it provides to two

The scholarships are designated to individuals

local beneficiaries, but also because it offers

who are the first in their families to attend

something for everyone.

college. For many students, scholarships make

Early arrivals were treated to a glass of bubbly

the difference in their ability to afford college.

as they perused the auction items, waiting for

A few words from recipients of these

the event to begin. At 7 p.m. the doors opened,

scholarships:

and guests enjoyed nearly 400 wines, spirits, craft beers, close to a dozen popular local

“As a first-generation college student,

restaurants serving wonderful specialties, and

I work hard in order to get the education

live music.

my parents were not fortunate enough to get,” explained Valencia sophomore Salomon

I made it a point to sample everything being

Valladares, who plans to ultimately become a

served… food that is! Disney brought their

doctor of neuro-radiology. “I appreciate the

cooking show-quality set and served braised

sacrifices my parents made and will not squan-

short ribs and pork belly Bolognese over wild

der this opportunity. This experience will not

mushroom risotto. It was better than what

only benefit my life but will also allow me to

you can imagine! I next tried T-Rex’s creamy

“Valencia is so grateful to Jess Bailes and the

lobster bisque in puff pastry. I was feeling a

ABC Fine Wine & Spirits family for their

little tightening in the waist but still had such

amazing generosity over the past 27 years,”

a long way to go! I pressed on, wine in hand. A

said Geraldine Gallagher, President and CEO

Land Remembered offered short ribs w/Barolo

of the Valencia Foundation. A total investment

Lindsey Pressa, whose parents immigrated to

reduction on garlic mashed potatoes; Bubba-

of $500,000 in students has resulted in schol-

American from Haiti and had no real chance to

lous made a pulled pork sundae with pork,

arships and an endowed professorship to serve

attend college, said, “Despite my fear of failing,

slaw and baked beans that was off the charts;

students with physical challenges. Another

despite my parents’ lack of opportunity, despite

Yak & Yeti offered a sriracha fish taco of fresh

2,600 students received scholarships through

the trials and tribulations I will be facing in the

cod; Rainforest Café kicked it up with smoked

Taste for Learning.

future, I keep pushing. The journey I am on is

brisket and bacon onion jam; Mi Casa Tequila Tacqueria offered beef, chicken and fish tacos; Cala Bella had veal and mozzarella meatball sliders; for dessert the Hard Rock Café had cannoli with tiramisu cupcakes. Oooph! Did

In 2005, Valencia Foundation treasurer, Jess Bailes, introduced the concept of a fundraising event that relied 100% on in-kind donations.

care of me. Thank you for this great gift and know that I will never forget your kindness.”

nothing close to easy, but when the right people come along (people like you), it is impossible to give up.”

In a series of eight events that occur every 18

Join us for the next Taste for Learning event

months, the formula has held true. Rosen Shingle

in May 2017!

Creek joined the partnership for the third Taste wine journal | 14

take care of my parents just like they have taken

GERMAN RIESLING – A Dry Revelation JIM GREELEY • @ABCWINEJIMG • JAMESG@ABCFWS.COM

I

t’s a bit of an insider’s joke amongst us in the

of new wood. Rather, there’s a large segment of

wine industry regarding the greatness of Riesling

the U.S. white wine audience that prefers dry,

—it should be far more popular than it is. You

steel-tank fermented Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot

would be hard-pressed to come up with any other

Grigio to oaky Chardonnay. Riesling done in a

grape that’s lauded more by wine critics and yet

similar style can definitely play ball on this court!

largely ignored by the wine buying public

Look for the key words “Trocken” or “Dry” on

in general.

the bottle’s front or back labels, or ask one of our dedicated wine & spirits specialists for assistance.

site originally cultivated by the Capuchins of

reflects its sense of place better than Riesling,

Schloss Reinhartshausen is one of the Rheingau

the Monastery of Our Lady (Liebfrauenstift).

a grape that shines in great terroirs as diverse as

region’s top wine estates and traces its winemak-

Today it is owned by the Steifensand family of

the Palatinate of Germany, Alsace or even Polish

ing heritage all the way back to 1337. Their vine-

PJ Valckenberg Weinhandelhaus. Winemaker

Hill in southern Australia. Riesling is a super-

yard holdings include 80 hectares encompassing

Tilman Queins fashions a delicious Weingut

lative food wine and frequently over-delivers

parcels in 15 of the best sites around the towns of

Liebfrauenstift Dry Riesling ($15) grown in the

on bang-for-the-buck quality versus price. The

Erbach and Hattenheim, including the monopole

red sandstone subsoil of the property. It sports

varietal is a match made in heaven with pork,

Erbacher Schlossberg. Schloss Reinhartshausen

juicy white peach, Meyer lemon and pear with

chicken, an array of cheeses and Asian cuisine.

Old Vines Dry Riesling ($22) is made in a crisp,

fine acidity and a hint of crushed stones.

Many consistently improve with age too. It’s

inviting, dry style and utilizes fruit from 45-year-

relatively easy to find a world-class wine for less

old vines planted within the Hohenrain vine-

One of the all-stars in the Mosel, Johannes

than $25 a bottle that can be enjoyed immediately

yard, a south-facing hillside above the village of

or cellared for upwards of a decade.

Erbach. Here it’s all about the red slate soils. This

It’s a pity really. Perhaps no other white wine

Yet Riesling still fails to capture the imagination of so many white wine drinkers.

One issue is marketing and perception. Riesling will never be Chardonnay nor should it try to be.

The grape’s lively fruit and vibrant acidity are virtually incompatible with the flavors

wine displays citrus blossom and stone fruits with complexity, freshness and minerality.

Selbach makes Selbach Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken ($17) from one of the very best sites outside the village of Zeltingen. Overlooking the Mosel River, the steep and visually arresting Himmelreich vine-

In the Rheinhessen is another piece of living

yard is comprised of the famed blue slate that

history. The Liebfrauenstift-Kirchenstück

exists here. It’s rife with Golden Delicious apple

occupies a hallowed corner within the ancient

flavors, whiffs of Ceylon tea, pineapple, lime

city of Worms. Buttressed by the banks of the

and wet rocks. It is a wine to enjoy now with

Rhine, comingling within yards of modern

pork schnitzel and potato pancakes, or

office buildings and old Romanesque

curried sea scallops.

cathedrals, is this 500-year-old vineyard

wine journal | 15

8989 South Orange Ave. Orlando, Florida 32824

W I NE

TO

WATCH:

A単oVerde Pinot Noir AROMA :

DARK CHERRY, RASPBERRY AND WHITE PEPPER VARIETA L:

Pinot Noir F LAVO R :

Sweet blackberry, cherry, licorice, cola and mocha

wine journal | 16

B OD Y:

Light C O L O R:

LUCENT, DEEP PURPLE F I N I S H:

Lingering and impactful RE GI O N :

CENTRAL COAST, CALIFORNIA PA I R

WI TH: