Identity Issue Issue One | December 2013
Identity Issue identity noun 1. the fact of being who or what a person or thing is. the characteristics determining who or what a person or thing is.
Contents
CONTENTS - DECEMBER 2013 ON THE COVER Abbey Byrce
INSIDE Editors Letter 2 - 3 Double Glance 4 - 15 Command Attention 16 - 19 City Chic 20 -25 Be - You - Tiful 26 - 31 Model Lauren Pringle
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Editors Letter
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Editors Letter
This month’s issue concentrates on Identity, Ideals and Diversity. We see the model Abbey Byrce back on the scene; modelling in our personality editorial, which is based on how you see yourself and feeling trapped. The Street style hits the quayside of Newcastle, shooting a student fashionista, Lauren Pringle, adding pops of colour into your winter wardrobes. And we dig deep into the opinions of military personnel on the topic of military style fashion and how it is portrayed in magazines. Revealing the truths of how real soldiers feel about their every day uniform being used as a fashion statement. Finally, we shoot Rachel Agnew, baring all... In this issue we considered closely how you identify yourself and how an onlooker identifies you. Will this issue make you think differently about yourself?
Abby Editor and Chief of Midnight Noir
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Double Glance “Che Ansia” - That Anxiety
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Editorial
Photographer: Abby Field | Model: Abbey Byrce
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Editorial
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Editorial
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Editorial
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Article
Photographer Abby Field | Model Caitlin Embleton
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Command Attention
Picture a soldier in your mind. Is she we Is she wearing a low cut top? Probably to depict the women’s military attire in The military trend is strong and has been since the
the same. They are viewed as blank canvases with no identity for the military to get them trained to defend their country. They are just a number. But who wants to see the harsh reality on the front of a glossy magazine? Does it matter what military women think or not though? The fact is, that is the way it is. But what damage would wearing lipstick make to a female who is trained to fight? It is highly doubtable that a lipstick would keep them from drawing their weapon when it was time to defend. There is a misconception of women in the forces; the generalized opinion is that they are ‘unfeminine’. Of course every woman wants to look different, just these women have to dress and look a cer tain way, it’s their job, their uniform, does not mean they don’t let their hair down afterwards.
early 90’s, par ticularly after the Gulf War. Yet when it comes to selling these garments fashion magazines give the forces a different image. Wearing a military style garment today would mean you are following a trend rather than a desire to express nationalism. However, women in the forces go day by day of their working life with minimal make up and hair slicked back into a bun, low enough to sit below their beret; uniform all done up to the last button, barely any flesh on show. So why do magazines exploit women’s military kit in a sexualized way? Sex sells, but this could be giving the potential future young military female readers a false impression of what the military life is like. A military nurse, who prefers to stay anonymous, when asked about females in magazines said “it’s just the norm to sexualize women this way these days isn’t it?” Even “it’s a functional kit not a when women were firstly introduced to the forces, fashion statement.” you only had to look at World War II when they wore tight pencil skir ts, fitted jackets belted at the waist to emphasise each and every curve to see that it was more What is the appeal of the military trend? Is it to have the of a fashion statement in addition to being practical. uniform look, the feeling of impor tance and authority? One military male said, “I have no idea what is so appealing about the military look in fashion, when we “it’s just the norm to finish work the first thing we do is take our uniform off and it won’t be put on again until the last minute sexualize women this way before work,” he then continued to say strongly “it’s a these days isn’t it?” functional kit not a fashion statement.” The wearing of uniform, as well as its practical aspects, ensures that Military women have strict grooming standards that bonding not only by service or role but also by image. they have to stick to. The reason they are not allowed All over the world we honour the military, they are an to have a full face of make up is so that they are all inspiration to designers such as Michael Kors, Rebecca Midnight Noir | Page 18
Article
earing eye shadow? Is her hair down? not. However, fashion magazines seem an overly sexualized glamorous way. Minkoff and Rachel Roy all included the ‘tough’ look in their recent Autumn/Winter 2013 collections. Celebrities like Rihanna have made the military “look” sexy. Rihanna being one of the top celebrities in the world her wardrobe to the public has a huge influence. She is often seen in military style outfits. Her music video ‘Hard’ was all about being in the forces. It was not however the real raw image of the military, but a sexy and racy one. Not only has she personally worn the military look but also when designing her own line for River Island there are always garments of a military feel, especially her recent collection where she involved a lot of green camouflage. Is this a big trend for Rihanna because she feels empowerment from it?
is in the army, has her own company called ‘Sword & Plough’, it uses discarded military surplus material to design accessories. Most discarded material in the military are burned and buried, but Emily thought of the idea to use this material to make products such as bags that people would buy. Emily’s bags are inclusive, and she believes that you will be par t of their story, “you become a model for veteran empowerment, positive social change, and style!”
It is rumoured that Ralph Lauren has been asked by America’s Navy to redesign their females uniform. Women’s actual uniform in the forces now a days is not that flattering. The females in the Navy have par ticularly complained about the crotch length and how high the trousers sit, above the waist, making it uncomfor table for them. Women who join the forces know what they are letting themselves in for. Maybe Ralph Lauren can redesign the uniform to be more of a feminine fit, however the main focus point on the uniform is to be smar t and practical. After his success with designing the Olympics uniform however, there is no doubt that Lauren will improve the Navy uniform to a high standard. Well, what about military fashion being made with military materials? A 23 year old, Emily Nunez, who
So, is it because we look up to the forces and honour what they do for the country for it to be a big trend in fashion? Becky McGrattan, who is not in the forces said that the military style is ‘hot’. People admire people in uniform, so we see fit to dress that way. The military trend will not be fading out any time soon. Maybe magazines will eventually understand that it is not all sexy in the forces and that maybe the uniform should not be sexualized in such a way. Would a high-end magazine such as Vogue ever do a shoot of the raw image of the forces? The real military image is stronger and longer lasting than any of the magazines could ever hope to achieve.
“you become a model for veteran empowerment, positive social change, and style!”
Words By Abby Field
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City
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Street Style
Chic
Street Style inspired in the city.
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City Lauren
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Chic
Street Style
Pringle
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City Lauren
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Chic
Street Style
Pringle
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Photographer Abby Field | Model Rachel Agnew
Be You
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{you}
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Be You
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Be You
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“What you s on what lookin
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see depends you are ng for.�
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So....Who are you to judge?