SWEAT ISSUE±9
FAS HION
IS ART
Dior has no head designer, but let us not dwell, it’s been a great season none the less. We’ve put together a trend report, a selection of the best shows & got a new perspective on what was a surprising year for menswear. As the sun starts to come out & we can finally put on whatever fruit print we’ve managed to find, here is the definitive FASHION ONLY issue of SWEAT to guide you through what you’ll need for next winter, before everyone else gets it first. COVER by Jesus Rogers FASHION FORECAST by Nicole Holm SHOWS YOU’VE HEARD OF & THOSE YOU MIGHT NOT HAVE by Jess Bunyan OPINIONATED MENSWEAR by Rob Jones
Fashion Forecast By Nicole Holm
With the F/W 2011 Season shows under wraps, we take a brief look at what are likely to be the top trends this fall.
1. Red Hues Every shade of red was seen on the runways this season. From the ruby reds at Rodarte to the deep crimson shades at Proenza Schouler, red isn’t only going to be on lips this fall. L-R: Jil Sander, Betty Jackson, Elie Tahari, Vera Wang, Marc Jacobs, Victoria Beckham, Oscar de la Renta
2. Oversized Coats With Spring fast approaching the last thing we want to do is think about winter coats, but the presence of oversized coats at the F/W 2011 shows has been hard to ignore. From the duster coats at Rodarte to the heavy ponchos at Alexander Wang, the winter coat is back and bigger than ever. Clockwise from top: Hermes, Rochas Miu Miu, Jil Sander
3. Lite-Bright Practically every collection this fall featured bright colors, so expect this to be a major trend in trousers and footwear alike. From deep, rich blues to candy-colored oranges and reds seen, like seen at Burberry Prorsum, it seems like any color goes this season. L-R: Hermes, Isaac Mizrahi, Peter Som
4. Long Skirts This fall we noticed the hems of dresses and skirts getting longer to make a more conservative look that is both chic and sophisticated, like the floor length skirts seen at Carolina Herrera. Top L-R: Manish Arora, Veronique Leroy, Roksanda Ilincic, Roland Mouret, J.W Anderson. Bottom L-R: Just Cavalli,Collette Dinnigan, Holly Fulton, Tsumori Chisato, Antonio Marras
5. Graphic Prints Cool graphic prints in bright colors and shiny metallics were literally everywhere, from the Native American prints at Proenza Schouler to the bold floral prints at Miu Miu. Top L-R: Jil Sander, Lanvin, Kenzo, Giambattista Valli, Miu Miu, Versace Bottom L-R: Marni, Akris, Emilio Pucci, Vivienne Westwood, Manish Arora, Stella McCartney
NEWYORKNEWYORKNEWYO BEST SHOW YOU’VE HEARD OF: Rodarte This show was an absolute beaut. Inspired by the Terrence Malick film Days of Heaven there were floor sweeping gowns aplenty. Made of silk in the palest of colours, not quite white, with hand stitched embroidery. In fact the hand touch was what made the pieces so incredible, the quilting, hand appliqued and the mohair jumpers hand knitted. There’s something reminiscent about it as well as pushing forward, with the new longer hemlines and minimalist colour palet.
ORKNEWYORKNEWYORKNE BEST SHOW YOU HAVEN’T: Rebecca Taylor Taylor was so believing in her ability to make something new and relevent that she didn’t even shy away from using fabric appropriated from her own past collections. The floral dresses and constant embellishment was well balanced with intrigueing silhouetes and sophisticated feminine colours. There’s something whimsical, yet very New York about Taylor’s collections and she deserves much more credit for her easy going brand of high fashion that she’s getting at the moment.
LONDONLONDONLONDONLO BEST SHOW YOU’VE HEARD OF: Paul Smith Preppy turned up to full volume, and no one does it better. The colours and the just-thrown-together feel of it all made for a nice twist on the Patti Smith androgony of his inspiration. Of course, it was a lot more polished than the one and only herself, but otherwise it wouldn’t have been Paul Smith. New York sometimes borders on boring, but here I think it’s the subtelty, the detail in the tailoring, that makes the looks really stand out. Time to start digging around your boyfriend/brothers suits.
ONDONLONDONLONDONLO BEST SHOW YOU HAVEN’T: Charles Anastase Suddenly over the last two seasons, Charlas Anastase has all but overtaken Hussein Chalayan as my favorite designer. With his Spring/Summer collection fresh in my mind, I was weary of possible disappointment from the new season, but my fears were worthless. From the very first look, to the endless coats that followed, my heart was set. The red ponyskin emsemble was a personal highlight, as was the silk frilly all-in-one that coinsidently seemed like it belonged in Spring.
MILANMILANMILANMILANMIL BEST SHOW YOU’VE HEARD OF: Marni/Jil Sander/Prada Milan is so big house heavy that it was hard to choose one out of these three. The patterns at Marni, the silhouettes at Jil Sander and the overtop sequinned dresses at Prada all mixed to make possibly one of my favorite Milan seasons. I sometimes feel a little overdosed by the kitsch that comes with Italy’s fashion week but here in the midst of the controversy overtaking the clothes, some subtlety was allowed to filter through and I think Milan was all the better for it.
LANMILANMILANMILANMILA BEST SHOW YOU HAVEN’T: Sportmax Creative lovechild of Maxmara, Sportmax is where the designers get to let their imaginations run wilder. Looking over to Prada it’s easy to suggest that trends are still never far from their minds, but the ability to mix a red polo neck with a maxi gold and silver sequinned maxi dress and make it not look over the top takes quite some skill. It was lovely colours galore, from the black and blue of the first half to the rich oranges, red and burgandy’s of the second. It was a masterclass.
PARISPARISPARISPARISPAR BEST SHOW YOU’VE HEARD OF: Givenchy Everything Ricardo Tisci touches appears to be turning to gold at the moment. His last couture collections have simply stolen the whole seasons (minus the last McQueen) and here he was once again allowed to play a little bit more. Amidst the rumours of him being first in line to Mr. Galliano’s throne, Tisci’s collection showed nothing if not a designer who is very at home in his current position. From the oversized, pin-up and puma logo, jumpers to the sheer skirts. It was simply perfect.
RISPARISPARISPARISPARISP BEST SHOW YOU HAVEN’T: Carven At just two years old, Guillaume Henry’s line Carven has certainly gained some steller momentum. Dressing a girl who would appear most at home reading The Second Sex behind the counter in an art bookshop, simplicity and reserve meets avant garde detailing and kook head on. In a collection that had both lace detaling framing breasts and a simple knit over little black dress, there’s something for everyone but with little twists and something that delights with ease.
OPINIONATED Since the redefining moment of Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme, mens fashion seems to have been trying too hard to prove it’s credentials beyond skinny jeans. With last years mens day it would appear that menswear is becoming more valued, but what about the man on the street? Does he care about the perfect jumpers at Jonathan Saunders? Enter: Rob. BAND OF OUTSIDERS They Say: “land of stoner pricesses and hippie communes” Rob Says: “beanie (90s)”
CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN They Say: “for people who are incredibly fussy about the look of their clothes” Rob Says: “Shorditch”
MENSWEAR DKNY They Say: “lots to love here” Rob Says: “River Island”
DUCKIE BROWN They Say: “likeme-if-you-dare quality” Rob Says: “90s”
EMILIO PUCCI They say: “emphasize the rustic, raw part of the story” Rob says: “Unwanted present”
JEREMY SCOTT They say: “joyfully vulgar” Rob says: “italian tourist”
JONATHAN SAUNDERS They say: “his aesthetic effortlessly jumps genders” Rob says: “I could wear it (if I was skinny & wore anything other than black & navy)”
MARC BY MARC JACOBS They say: “a regular disco inferno” Rob says: “pleat/sainsburys”
MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF They say: “uniforms and uniformity” Rob says: “dad sandals”
ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO They say: “a sort of English countryside feel” Rob says: “Next (I have run out of steam mostly stuck thinking how boney all their faces are, maybe they look better in photo shoots)”
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