(page 30) DECEMBER 2015
A TASTE OF SARCASM BY DENISE DEPAOLO
MACKENZIE RIVER PIZZA 2 3 6 S . M A I N AV E . // S I O U X FA L L S // (6 0 5) 2 75 - 55 6 6 // M AC K E N Z I E R I V E R P I Z Z A .C O M
"If pizza brings you joy, then by all means, love that pizza like your life depends on it. Because it does." — Andrew W.K. It’s been a long time since I’ve seen such excitement surrounding a new restaurant in Sioux Falls, but somehow this place has done it. MacKenzie River Pizza opened its doors on November 9, and when we stopped in the next day for lunch, the wait was 40 minutes. That was a little long for the middle of the work day, so we decided to eat elsewhere. When we came back late the next afternoon, there was no wait, but it was by no means empty. At 4:15 p.m., over half of the tables in the cavernous space were filled. Our party of three was sat in a large booth, beneath what looked like a rustic dock suspended from the ceiling. Throughout the restaurant were woodsy bits of decor, like canoes and birch trees, which gave the space a laidback, outdoorsy vibe befitting a chain that started in Bozeman, Mont. When our server arrived to take drink orders a few minutes later, we put in an order of Pork Belly Cups. My dining companions took advantage of the restaurant’s early happy hour (which runs from 2 to 5 p.m and 8 p.m. to close.), but as I’m five months pregnant, I chose to abstain from the impressive-looking cocktail list. Like the food menu, the bar offerings were quite extensive, heavy with signature concoctions like the Jalapeno Margarita and Smoked Old Fashioned - in addition to flights of whiskey and a beer list dotted with local selections, such as Hydra Brewing Company’s Death Breath IPA. It was difficult to narrow down our dinner selections when faced with columns of flatbreads, pizzas, salads, sandwiches, burgers, and dinner items, but we finally settled on the MacKenzie Meatloaf and the Thai Pie. Moments later, our appetizer arrived. The Pork Belly Cups were presented like three little Napa cabbage tacos, filled with apple slaw, crispy wonton strips, and slices of pork belly topped with halved peanuts. The sweet Asian glaze on the pork belly complemented the earthiness of the peanuts, and provided a good contrast to the creaminess of the slaw. The cabbage held up
better than a real tortilla ever would have, adding to the incredibly satisfying combination of textures, while serving as a benign carrier for the more prominent flavors of the fillings. While waiting for our food, the restaurant steadily filled up as five o’clock approached. And even though she was becoming increasingly busy, our server was attentive to our refill needs. After a short wait, our pizza and entree appeared. We ordered the Thai Pie on original crust. I imagine the thin crust option must be incredibly so, as the original was what some other pizza places might call “thin.” Semantics aside, this was a pretty fun pizza. The crust was topped with peanut sauce, mozzarella, chicken, red peppers, scallions, cilantro, and mandarin oranges. Oranges on a pizza were a first for everyone at our table - and they met with mixed reviews. I was a fan and liked how they cut through the slight heat of the peanut sauce. The peppers added a necessary brightness. The peanuts were slightly browned, having cooked with the rest of the pie, which I thought made them even tastier. However, I would have liked it better if they had been chopped, rather than halved, playing more of a supporting than starring role to the tasty, but scant, chicken. All three of us agreed that the best part of the meal, however, was the meatloaf. The portion was generous, bacon-wrapped, and topped with crispy fried onions. It was tender and glazed with a smoky-sweet ketchuplike sauce, which still allowed for the flavor of the meat to shine through. Beneath the meatloaf was a pile of homemade mashed potatoes, served beside a medley of seasoned broccoli, carrots, and squash - which all still had an enjoyable crunch to them. Everyone in our party agreed that each item was worth ordering again, although next time, I plan to have either the Pear & Bleu flatbread or the Beet Salad. The menu is just too big to get into a rut with - yet. Bottom line: For a restaurant open three days, I couldn’t imagine a better possible experience.
[AT M O S P H E R E ] This is a novel, but comfortable concept for downtown Sioux Falls. It will appeal to literally every demographic. [ S E RV I C E ] Our server was friendly and right on top of refills. Our food arrived in a timely manner and she was prompt with our check. [ TA S T E ] Aside from the size of the peanuts in the Pork Belly Cups and on the pizza, I could find no fault in the meal. The flavor combinations were really good, and even something as basic as meatloaf was made new and fun. [ I T ’ S T H E FAC T S ]
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MacKenzie River Pizza was founded in Bozeman, Mont. 22 years ago. Now, there are 24 locations in six states.
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According to its website, MacKenzie River Pizza strives to be a sustainable operation, earning the EcoStar award every year since 2005.
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The restaurant's furnishings are comprised largely of refurbished and handcrafted wine barrels and beetle kill lumber.
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Gluten-free options - including pizza - are available. In addition to nutrition information, an allergen guide is available on the company's website.