photo annual 2014
#25 NOV/DEC 2 014
@ coronaextra _ au coronaextra.com.au
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Click to find out what makes Marti Fly ...and it ain't wings
Photo By Stu Gibson
stunno's surf adventure
An inspiring and educational tale for young groms
stunno.com.au
RRP $15
•$ 1 from every book goes to the Australian Surfrider Foundation. • For every 1000 books sold, a further $1000 will be donated to a local boardriders club.
Image: TrenT Trent Slatter Image: SlaTTer
TOUR SCHEDULE - NOV/DEC 2014 Wa Fremantle - 12Nov - Hoyts Cinema Fremantle - 13 Nov - Newport Hotel Dunsbrough - 14 Nov - Clancys Fish Pub Mandurah - 15 Nov - Reading Cinemas
- 28 Nov - Greater Union Theatre AMAYSIM AUSTRALIAN Shellharbour SURF MOVIE FESTIVAL Newcastle - 29 Nov - Tower Event Theatres A TIM BONYThON INITIATIVE Forster Cinemas - 30 Nov Port Macquarie - 1 Dec - Majestic Cinema Coffs Harbour - 2 Dec - Event Cinemas
TaS Hobart - 16 Nov - Stanley Burbury Theatre
Yamba Cinema - 3 Dec
T O U R S C H E D U L E - N O V /Twin D ETowns C Resort 2 0 1- 44 Dec
nSW & QlD SYDNEY PREMIERE 19 Nov - Cremorne - Hayden Orpheum Randwick - 20 Nov - Ritz Cinema Cronulla - 21 Nov- Sharkies Leagues Club Club Palm Beach - 22 Nov Avoca Beach Picture Theatre - 23 Nov Nth Bondi RSL - 24 Nov Ulladulla - 26 Nov - Arcadia Cinema Wollongong - 27 Nov - Greater Union Theatre
Coolangatta Cinemas - 5 Dec
Noosa - 6 Dec - Birch Cinemas Ballina Cinemas - 7 Dec VIC
St Kilda - 10 Dec - The Espy
s w e l l Carlton - 11 Dec - Cinema Nova Sa
Adelaide - 13 Dec - Mercury Cinema
Noarlunga - 14 Dec - Wallis Cinemas
A night of incredible Surf MovieS
v i e w t r a i l e r & b u y t i c k e t s at: a s M F. n e t. a u Featuring:
swell chasers chasers TOURINg TO A VENUE NEAR YOU
LIVE MUSIc + dOOR pRIzES + A ShORT SURF FILM cOMpETITION – ENTER NOW
VIEW TRAILER & BUY TIckETS AT: ASMF.net.Au
WELCOME TO SLAB LANDS
ED N o t e
photo annual. 2014.
Along this beach, the peaks shift over a couple of hundred metres. There are flash rips (when it’s four-foot plus) pulling you around, so it’s a constant effort to stay in the zone for the classic fisheye angle staring straight into tha toobe.
We’ve been tinkering with the idea of crafting an annual for a while now. This is our first one. If I’ve done my job right, once you’re finished with this digital treat, you’ll be itching for a last minute road trip across Oz with ya best pals, or a dredging dawnie at Skeleton Bay, or voyages to the remote Indonesian archipelago, a strike mission to Japan, the Caribbean or just happy to be home with the fam’ and pumping waves.
When I saw this wave approaching I knew I was out of the spot and I knew I’d be letting Bede down on his best wave of the morning (it’s a painful feeling when you’re in the water with a CT guy and you’re out of spot on the best wave of the morning). I kicked as hard as I could to get as close as I could, but knew I wasn’t going to make it near the shoulder in time. Instead, I shot off a round of this thing breaking right in front of me.
This is a tribute to the (electronic) sea and the surfers, and photographers who dedicate their lives to it. Each shot is accompanied by the surfers’ name, manoeuvre, approx’ location and a coupla words from the shooter.
In the edit suite, scrolling through the RAWs I realised being forced to try something different, could be the recipe for something perfect. I sent a batch to Bede and he called me straight. The voice down the line was upbeat. He was stoked on them, but there was one, which really roasted his nuts.
Getting the fire started is Bede Durbidge with the steep entry above. Taken this year (by me), one late winter morning at South Straddie, moments after Bede had arrived home from J-Bay.
You know the one. My job was done. Come along and enjoy. There are plenty more observations like this to nibble. AM
18s e c o n d s
a pack involved in crimes such as running guns down to the beach when it's 10-foot-plus and illegal carry-on luggage weights: andy morris editor
andy@18seconds.com.au
alicia smith designer
alicia@18seconds.com.au
russell ord photo editor ordy@me.com
contributors
18seconds is self-published six times a year in Currumbin, Australia: PO Box 86, Tugun, QLD 4224. Views expressed by authors aren’t necessarily those of the publisher and editor. Copyright is reserved, so please don’t reproduce our pages for anything. Email addresses are published for professional communication and swell alerts only.
ted grambeau chris burkard duncan macfarlane ed sloane andrew christie billy morris lee pegus peter 'joli' wilson jason corroto jake 'yaki' newell – music ink dwayne fetch – video james driscoll – proof reading
12
COVER
Peter Hayes MR CASUAL, SOUTHERN OCEAN, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
This was one of the best waves and best days of surfing I’ve ever seen. Hayesy stood tall through this entire wave and escaped cleanly into the channel. I was standing on the cliff 20-minutes prior to this, deliberating on whether or not to swim out. With jetskis everywhere and plenty of water moving through a shifty channel, it was a questionable scenario, however once this wave came through the swim was immediately worth it. – Steve Wall
13
14
Warriors SHOULDER RUN, CLOUDBREAK, FIJI.
8 June 2012. The session took on the name of "Filthy Friday". This is an OMG or WTF moment for everyone in the lineup. So much has been written and talked about in videos, and around campfires and over beers or coffee or whatever your poison, but this session has to go down as one of the all-time surf sessions... ever! It's the ideal south swell for Cloudbreak. All the conditions were perfect: building swell, dropping tide, light offshore winds and most of the best bigwave surfers in the world in the lineup (there were also a good proportion of top 34 surfers in attendance as well because of the Volcom Fiji Pro which was on hold). The only notable name missing from this session was former boatman at Cloudbreak, Shane Dorian. There were eight waves like this over a two-to-three-hour period and they came in two-wave sets. Here’s the first wave in one of those sets. I shot this session till it got too dark to shoot and when I look at these photos now, I wonder how many perfect waves rolled down the Cloudbreak reef during the night. The next morning the swell had dropped back, so there must have been a lot of incredible waves going unridden under the cover of darkness. – Peter ‘Joli’ Wilson
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Joel Parkinson
FOREHAND TUBE UNDER THE SUN, COOLANGATTA, QUEENSLAND.
This is the only photo I took this day… captured on a fully manual 645 medium format camera. I was using velvia 50, rated at 32 ISO, which was then drum-scanned. If you’re not into cameras, basically, this photo is taken on film, not digital. This wave has since gone on to be a well-known session Joel and his cousin (Mitch) shared this year. As well as being sprayed all over social media, it ran as a sequence in Surfing World magazine – they had the water angle. You can see Jon Frank down there getting a different perspective. I’ve seen other angles, but this is the only one I’ve seen from the cliffs. – Paul Castle
17
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Billy Kean
FOREHAND DROP INTO THE TUBE, EAST COAST, BALI.
I love the light and Billy's set-up stance in this shot. I can only imaging he required one or two good pumps, just after he was out of my vision, to make the oncoming section. – Russell Ord
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Dan Malloy
RIVERMOUTH HACK, JAPAN.
This is Dan Malloy in Japan. We went there for a Patagonia book signing. We were there with Gerry Lopez and Col Christianson. We saw a swell and were like, hey we’re going to stick around for a couple of days and see what transpires. It was crazy because, in Japan, I never felt so unable to get from point A-to-B. We needed a handler for everything. Someone to drive and communicate for us. It was one of the few times I really felt culture shock in a big way. Luckily, the people are awesome and they wanted you to get good waves. We met up with the right guys and they brought us to this amazing rivermouth. It was pretty much crap, but you could see the potential. This is another one of those last days of the trip. Literally 45-minutes before we had to leave for the airport, Dan had a session and got six waves. He said it was one of the best surfs of his life. It was so cool for me to be there and be in the moment, trying to document it… this image ended up being on the cover Surfer magazine. – Chris Burkard.
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empty
NEW LINES, COOLANGATTA, QUEENSLAND.
With a 0.1 metre low tide, Greenmount through to Kirra turned in to one wave – that’s if you had the speed to keep up with it. This was a spectacle from the “southern cyclone” which lashed Sydney and pumped up Cloudbreak’s tyres during the infamous WCT event, which was put on hold for the day, as the world’s best bigwave riders converged on Fiji (Friday 8 June 2012) [ed note: hey! That very day, features in this very book. You just saw it. Click here to see it again!]. A couple of days before, as darkness fell on Wednesday 6 June, long period lines (around 18-seconds and ruler straight!) marched in to Coolangatta, each set bigger than the last. From ankle high slappers in the morning to four-to-five foot steam trains on dark, it was a rare sight seeing the leading edge of a swell arrive with such impressive period for Queensland. – Andy Morris
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Dylan Longbottom
JUNGLE VORTEX, INDONESIA.
This is the same trip Mikala and I where on [ed note: to see another wave from this trip click here]. Dylan spent a week out here with us too. This was at the start of the swell, on the first day we arrived. For sure, Dylan went home with a smile! – Brad Masters
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Sebastian ‘Seabass’ Zietz
CORAL TUBE, INDONESIA.
If it’s one thing I’m hooked on, is shooting underwater shots when the water’s clear. There aren’t too many places around the world with super clear water. Fiji, Tahiti, Indonesia in some places is epic. It’s rare to get it here in Australia on the east coast. Occasionally, after a lull in surf action you’ll get clear water, but there’s usually a lot of sediment around which clouds it. Personally, I think the secret to good underwater photos is not being too close to the action. In past years I’ve shot fairly close to the wall a lot of the time. I think the better shots I’ve had are the pulled back ones, where you can see a bit of the reef and take in the whole wave. This one’s quite far away, so you can see a bit of the reflection from the wave on the top of the water. I switched this shot to black and white. Think it looks better: there was more contrast when I transferred it over. – Bill Morris
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Joel Fitzgerald
COVERED FROM ABOVE, NORTHERN NEW SOUTH WALES.
Joel Fitz was indulging in a rare uncrowded session near my home. We didn't get much rain this winter, so everything had settled in the ocean. The result – crystal clear, watery perfection. – Ryan Kenny
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Michel Bourez
forehand tube, the box, western australia.
This is the morning ASP event organisers moved the 2014 Margie Pro from Margaret River to The Box. It was also the morning I swam out there. It was a spooky swim. Minutes before the hooter sounded for the start of the first heat, as the water photographers and CT guys peeled away from the wave, a powerful fish breached the surface in the impact zone thrashing its tale around sending water skyward. Most of us saw it. The facial expressions told the story, as we realised we were helpless swimming. The water patrol guys on their skis (four or five around us at the time) closed in and Dino Adrian (WA big wave surfer and water patrol) stood up on his ski and yelled to everyone, “That’s not a dolphin, that’s a shark.” Turns out it was a small, but very capable and energetic reef shark more interested in sea life. – Andy Morris
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Ben Bourgeois
HANDBREAK, CARIBBEAN.
We ended up leaving this wave the day before Christmas. We didn’t want to. But had to, otherwise there was sure to be an uproar from our partners on Christmas day. - Chris Burkard
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Dave Delroy
BOTTOM TURN, SOUTH COAST, WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
This was an amazing day. Just Alfie Cater and Dave Delroy towing bombs. Dave got in to this one a bit late and decided to back track left. Safety first when you’re out in the middle of the ocean. If he had of straightened out, well that would’ve been the end of him. – Russell Ord 35
Joel Parkinson
FRONTSIDE DOUBLE GRAB, DURANBAH, NEW SOUTH WALES.
This was one of those Gold Coast days you don’t see on the glossy brochures or websites. Poor light, overcast, thundery: where the beach looks downright uninviting. The bright side? The contrast in his yellow fins! And this lofty double grab. And the fact Joel shared the beach with a handful of guys, which you never see at D’bah. – Andy Morris 36
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EMPTY
CYCLONE BIANCA, WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
This day will be remembered for a long time in West Oz. For a bunch of reasons but namely, the acute northwest swell generated by Cyclone Bianca. The sheer size and power was amazing. Usually a northwest swell will get to two-to-three foot max, but what happened this day was something so rare, not a lot of people had seen it before. – Brad Masters
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Ben Bourgeois
THICK LIPS AND SQUARE PITS, CARIBBEAN.
The best season for the Caribbean is October to March (dry season). The waves are consistent and powerful. With the light slowly fading on this day, no one wanted to paddle in. Easy to understand, when the waves weren’t showing any signs of slowing down. – Chris Burkard 41
42
EMPTY
RIVERMOUTH TREATS, NOOSA, QUEENSLAND.
A day like this in Noosa is very rare. This is the best most people have ever seen it. The swell hit on the Queen’s Birthday long weekend, so there was no shortage of crowd, but plenty of shacks going around. – Jack Dekort
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Asher Pacey
BACKHAND TOOBE, GREAT BARRIER REEF, QUEENSLAND.
I was fortunate a couple of years ago to do a trip with Asher Pacey and Josh Kerr, and a couple of guys out to the Great Barrier Reef, on a converted fishing boat called the James Cook. We had three-to-four days of east swell and light offshore winds… pretty much scored at a bunch of different reef passes. – Andrew Shield
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Michael Peterson’s mates
SCATTERING ASHES 14 APRIL 2012, KIRRA POINT, QUEENSLAND.
The returning of a soul to where it’s feels alive. Or maybe where it feels at ease. But definitely where it’s happy and free again to fly deep in the eye of a salty one. This is the exact moment where part of MP’s ashes were returned to his stomping ground by friends, family, strangers and world champs. Centre stage: Kelly Slater sits to the left of Wayne ‘Rabbit’ Bartholomew who sits in the middle. Arms held high. After the ceremony, Kelly payed homage to MP one last time with a switchfoot cutback moments after MP’s ashes were scattered. There was an incredible vibe this morning. – Andy Morris
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Peter Hayes
FIRST WAVE, SOUTHERN OCEAN, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
This is Hayesy’s first wave of the day. We’d been watching it all morning waiting for the tide to start rising and slowly but surely it came good. In the foreground you can see Ben Serrano and Scott ‘Whip’ Dennis coming round the cliffs on their ski. And a dedicated crew of Marine Biologists we met on the cliff this day – they spent four months living out there! – Steve Wall 49
50
EMPTY
GLORY HOLE, CARIBBEAN.
It’s crazy how many times the surfers on this trip got to peek at this view. Ben Bourgeois, Asher Nolan and Zander Morton clocked up more tube time than months at home. – Chris Burkard
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Mark Mathews
MIDNIGHT SESSIONS, CAPE SOLANDER, NEW SOUTH WALES.
The event was put on by film director Macario De Souza and Mark Mathews. They hired giant lights and cranes, and set them up on the point to light up the whole surf zone. Everyone arrived around 10 p.m. and spent a couple of hours setting up. The surf was absolutely huge. It picked up from six-foot during the day to 10-foot by the time we arrived. It was a crazy night of huge waves. It was such a different environment to shoot in. I’ve shot a night surfing event at Bondi, but this was a whole different kettle of fish. I was wondering around the rocks in the dark trying to get as many different angles as I could. I was using my iPhone to light up where I was walking. The storm was shooting off a couple of bolts of lightning every now and then. I knew it was a pretty rare chance for me to capture a bolt because usually you need time exposure. Luckily enough one came out and this was the shot. – Bill Morris
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Anonymous
SIGN OF RESPECT, BURLEIGH POINT, QUEENSLAND.
On 29 March 2012, something extraordinary happened. A beautifully groomed east swell arrived in southeast Queensland. Ya see, it’d been exactly three months and three days since the last decent east swell had graced sunny ol’ Queensland. Three months is a long time. In between shacks there’d been waves, but nothing like what was to arrive on 29 March: long lines extending k’s out to sea. The slight puff of wind from the southwest. Crisp dry air. Sunshine. The conditions you hope for. The ones you jump in your car at dawn for. Forecasting data under cooked it. There was more juice than predicted. The ocean woke… it had life again. Many punters were caught off-guard. The lucky ones on to it early, scored incredibly hard. The whole coastline lit up. It was the start of an epic run of waves. Seasoned locals pulled the old chestnut, ‘t was like the good ol’ days. But you know why it was a mysterious day? It was the same day Michael Peterson died. And THAT ain’t no coincidence. – Andy Morris
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Jamie O'Brien
BACKHAND SLAP, PADANG PADANG, BALI.
I don’t shoot Padang often, because of the crowd and number of photographers in the water when it’s firing. But, this was one of those rare days I did, because having Jamie out there, you know you’ll always score some gold. I was shooting off a ski this day and looking for something different than the normal shots you see from out there. – Brad Masters. 57
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Soli Bailey
room with OCEAN VIEWS, MAIN BEACH, BYRON BAY, NEW SOUTH WALES.
After shooting Kirra this morning I headed back to Byron to meet up with Soli at Main Beach carpark. It was summer, there was a solid five-foot swell running (which hung around for a week) and howling southerlies. These kinds of conditions opened up a few beauties like this for the boys. – Craig Parry 59
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Cody Carter
OVER THE SHALLOWS, NORTH WEST, WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
The Carter brothers charge remote heavy reefs. Here, Cody is looking super casual, considering the serious consequences a fumble here would have. This wave breaks on to some serious skin-stripping reef. – Russell Ord
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DESERT
ROAD TRIPPIN’, LA MINA DE ORO, MEXICO.
This is an end to a perfect day of searching and finding waves, and is the art of surf travel at its finest. Surfers know autumn (spring in northern hemisphere) is the best time to visit the area – it’s still rainless, the air temperature is warming (but not too much), the tourist masses have yet to appear, and there are those early-season southern hemi treats colliding with sandbars, pointbreaks, rivermouths and reefs. – Chris Burkard
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Joel Parkinson
BEHIND THE ROCK, COOLANGATTA, AUSTRALIA.
The vibe behind the rock at Snapper is intense. The guys with the skill to make the jacking drops (and hop the backwash) have the skill to ride the tube out. This is a good thing for two reasons: there’s dry rock right in front of the wave. And there are humans right in the line of the breaking wave. Shit can go wrong, real quick. You really need to know the sweet spot to tackle behind the rock. Enter Joel and Mick on this day, who’d been in Hawaii for the final leg of the tour. Neither of them had surfed Snapper in months. Within minutes, it was as they'd been there yesterday, tackling the rock. – Andy Morris
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Chris ‘Ibis’ Bennetts
SLIDE WITH PRIDE, SOUTH STRADBROKE ISLAND, QUEENSLAND.
Some times repetition can stale your surfing. Every now and then you need to swap things up – throw in a bit of variety to give you a new perspective on things. Surfing’s no different and Ibis knows too well. This day, he’s decided to take a lid over the seaway to South Straddie instead of his shortbord… just for a bit of fooling around. It was funny seeing him stepping off a ski 100-metres out the back and skimming in calling off crew. Good times. – Andy Morris
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Different direction
CYCLONE BIANCA, WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
A random beachie transformed into best evers. On this day, when tropical Cyclone Bianca sent lines of eight-foot north swell down the coast, turned this average beachie into alltime perfection. Before you get green with envy, this will not happen again. Ever! – Brad Masters
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Jackson Carey
BOTTOM TURN, NARRABEEN, NEW SOUTH WALES.
A diamond in the rough. It was one of those earlies with morning sickness, funky tide and lots of wobble. However, having the place wired, Jackson managed to snag a couple of beauties. – Matt Dunbar
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Scott ‘Whip’ Dennis
FOREHAND BABYCINO, SOUTH COAST, NEW SOUTH WALES.
This photo reminds me why surf trips can be frustrating when you're on location to get a job done. We’d been anticipating ideal conditions for a number of exposed reefbreaks in the area (that would’ve been three times the size of this), but this day woke to strong southerlies rendering our preferred options unsurfable. Backup plan was this semi-secret location, which was smaller than what Whip is accustomed to, but still heaps of fun. Surprisingly, the shoot turned out well: mainly because the boys were getting deep and the sun was shining. You can’t control the weather and on the flip, is one of the beautiful things about surf photography. – Andy Morris
73
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Taj Burrow
BACKHAND CONFIDENCE, NORTH WEST, WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
Taken on the same day as the photo of Cody Carter [ed note: click here to see the shot]. TB didn’t waste any time getting used to the wave and surroundings, locking into his very first wave. Shooting CT guys in casual environments is a real treat, as the action comes thick and fast. – Russell Ord 75
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Matt King
FOREHAND TUBE, ULLUDULLA, SOUTH COAST, NEW SOUTH WALES.
There’s many nicknames for Matt, but I like to call him Lord of the South Coast. Here, he’s tucked away nicely around the corner from where he lives. – Jason Corroto
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Warren Smith
DISBELIEF, KERALA, INDIA.
We’d planned 12 days in India and had been searching for a couple of days for fun beachies. Then we stumbled across this. Basically, Warren’s pointing in shock at what’s taking place in front of him. His slow walk soon turned into a full-blown bolt towards the water. – Chris Burkard 79
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Anthony Walsh
BACKHAND CAVE, TIMOR, INDONESIA.
This is a rarely surfed wave around Timor. Walshy and I had been scouting the coastline on the runabout, while the main boat was cruising out the back. After about an hour we stumbled on to this wave. It was crazy how deep you could get inside and still make it out. We had this wave for about two hours before the tide got too high and it stopped breaking. – Brad Masters.
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Hayden Cervi
BOTTOM TURNING INTO A DREAM, SUNSHINE BEACH, QUEENSLAND.
This shot was taken when Hayden and I went walking through the national park and found this left point. It’s a super fickle wave… it only breaks after months of sand building on the northern pockets. This was the best we’d seen it in years. – Alex Benaud
83
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Empty
SURFED OUT, DURANBAH, NEW SOUTH WALES.
Crowds are everywhere along this stretch of coast. Although, if you play your cards right, you can score one of Australia’s most heavily populated (and consistent) beachbreaks with a couple of pals. There are several tactics. Go for the first light mission – it’ll be crowded within 60-minutes, but your wave count in the first hour should be solid. Go for the last light. Or go when it’s light onshore. My favourite: hit it when it’s big enough for the points after a prolonged run of swell, like this guy, who’s about to cop a beating on the head. – Andy Morris
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Jack Robinson
EXTREME TUBE EXIT, THE BOX, WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
Here’s a massive amount of power about to blow-off Jack Robinson's head. This is still one of my favourite shots from, The Box: a testing place to get close to the surfer, particularly on this angle, because of the power of the wave and the shallow reef. – Russell Ord 87
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Locals
LIGHT SHOW, SUMBA.
These guys would be used to sunsets and may even take them for granted. At the same time every day, they jump in their canoe and make their way out to catch fish for their families. For me, it’s always my favourite time to capture these moments. – Brad Masters. 89
Korbin Hutchings
LATE DROP, NORTHERN NEW SOUTH WALES.
There was a junior event on at Lennox Head, which brought in all the top groms from around Australia. While they were battling it out on average beachies, down the coast was firing with hardly anyone around. – Ryan Kenny
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Ladies
BUM-SLAPPING GOODNESS, PIPELINE, HAWAII.
This wasn’t planned, staged or anything. It just happened on the beach one day. It’s not every day you get three casual ladies pose right in front of you. I love Hawaii. ‘nough said! – Jason Corroto
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Empty
FIND THIS AND DIE SMILING, CARIBBEAN.
The Caribbean skies were constantly changing on this trip. But this sandy point remained the same for our entire stay, which blew everyone away, given how fickle the area is. – Chris Burkard
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Mikala Jones
TUBE RUN, INDONESIA.
This session was crazy. We’d already been out there for the last week and everyone else had bailed back. Mikala was keen to stay out for a few more days and the rewards sure came through. This is one of the biggest days I have seen out there. Stoked MJ made the drop and was able to travel through this one. – Brad Masters 97
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Empty
ROAD TRIPPIN’, SOUTHERN OCEAN, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
It’s a long way from anywhere out here. And even further from the east coast: which is where almost everyone surfing this day came from. – Steve Wall
99
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Andy Irons
BACKHAND TUBE, NO HANDS, TEAHUPOO, TAHITI.
This was at the start of the Billabong Pro in Tahiti on 1 May years ago. The swell was big and the perfect direction. All of the CT guys were there, but some of their boards hadn’t turned up, so they couldn’t run the contest. A bunch of the guys (like Andy and Cory Lopez) were towing-in on boards with no straps. So here, Andy hadn’t paddled. This session lasted a day-and-a-half. On the second day, it was borderline tow and I got a shot of CJ Hobgood paddling in to the biggest wave that’s ever been paddled in to at Chopes. At the time, these were the best two days of my shooting career with the quality and surfers on offer. – Peter ‘Joli’ Wilson
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Asher Pacey
BELOW SEA-LEVEL TUBE, NEW SOUTH WALES.
Gold Coast freesurfer, Mr Pacey always seems to be in the right place at the right time. It’s like he has Huey on speed dial. This day was no different at an isolated reef break in New South Wales. With just enough water on the reef to hold the bomb sets, Asher drove his board through this submarine. To this day, he still claims it as the best wave he’s ever had out there. Not even an hour after this shot was taken, he was back on the highway hunting something for the low tide. – Andy Morris
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MADE by
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