ANSWERED IRINA VON HOLDT REPORTS

OLD & TRADITIONAL PLUS Y OUNG & T RENDY is month we look at two categories of wine that will charm and delight you— classic Chardonnay and trendy pinks

“GET THE CHARDONNAY.

I’ve made something special for dinner!” How oen do we say that? Well, quite oen because we know Chardonnay is special, sitting there high on its pedestal. In a dierent scenario, at a relaxed lunch where wine is urgently needed—not the sort that takes control, more of a good obliging pal—we say, “Go grab the rosé!”

HELLO, CLASSI C CH ARDONNAY

One of the great white wines of the world, Chardonnay owes its primary reputation to the great wines of Burgundy. Legendary names like Montrachet, Puligny and Chablis have attracted and enchanted serious wine lovers and collectors for centuries. e challenge to make brilliant Chardonnay has been eagerly taken up by every self-respecting wine-producing country. Most fall very short of top Burgundy, however. But now we live in a new, more egalitarian world and if the man in the street wants Chardonnay, he’ll get it, because someone will make it for him.

From being an iconic, ripe, wellwooded, intense and supremely elegant (read expensive) Chardonnay, we now

have more modest everyday versions. e greater public WINES TASTED has spoken (and BY THE PANEL winemakers have listened) and we’re CHARDONNAY seeing lighter, WINE-OF-THE-MONTH fresh-faced, and, it CLUB: Anura Reserve Chardonnay must be said, oen 2017 simple wines. And, ALSO LIKED: Anura Chardonnay South Africa does them very well. 2017, Glenelly Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2016, Haut Espoir Chardonnay 2017, Lyngrove Reserve Fortunately, there Chardonnay 2017 are still classy, wellWINES LISTED IN oaked, but nuanced ALPHABETICAL ORDER: wines for a more demanding clientele. And, Bosman Upper Hemel en Aarde our winemakers do those very well, too. e panel has both praise and criticism for Chardonnay 2016, Canto Chardonnay 2017, Delheim Sur Lie Chardonnay 2016, Glenwood Unoaked Chardonnay the basic styles. First the good news. 2017, Môreson Dr Reason Why “Lees character charms me, I love the toasty oak, minerality if I can nd it, and I like the Chardonnay 2017, Mount Vernon Chardonnay 2014, Mount Vernon Three Peaks Unwooded Chardonnay creaminess that comes from batonnage,” says 2017, Pearl Mountain Avis Clive. Chardonnay 2014, Spier Signature Christine agrees. “A variety of avours— citrus, stone fruit, they have character and Chardonnay 2017, Tokara Chardonnay 2016, Van Loveren Chardonnay 2017, Van Loveren Christian interest and show very good use of oak,” she Reserve Chardonnay 2017, Van says. Tinashe also agrees. “Loved the use of oak,” Loveren Tangled Tree Butterscotch Chardonnay 2017, Vriesenhof Unwooded Chardonnay 2017, he says, “there’s a lot of character here.” Warwick First Lady Chardonnay 2017

“ey’re ripe,” from Dave. SOUTH AFRICAN C O N N O ISSE U R 2 3

“And balanced,” from Christine.

But when it goes wrong…

“Lacking fruit, over-wooded,” short and sharp from Claude.

Winnie too: “Not enough fruit, some overaged, not nuanced.”

“Worst case scenario,” says Irina, “is thin wine, poor wine, given too much oak. How sad.”

Optimistic Dave sighs: “On the other hand, there is a lot of accessibility. So nice to drink.”

But Irina’s not having it: “ is is Chardonnay, and we expect more—‘nice to drink’ is not good enough!”

Dave sighs again. “I like to drink it,” he says.  en we look at the everyday styles and  nd much to like.

Christine is quick o the mark with: “Lovely range of  avours. Good balance between acidity and fruit. Some charm and a fair amount of elegance, I may say.”

Winnie agrees with: “I enjoyed them; lovely use of oak.”

Yes, some of these wines are lightly oaked, o en barely detectable, but it does add another dimension to the palate. But when it goes wrong…

“I don’t know what bathwater tastes like, but I suspect that this is it! No character here,” from a highly indignant Claude.

“A lot of sameness,” says Irina.

Colin has good advice. “ ere’s not enough attention to detail,” he says. “ is is sloppy winemaking. And, we need more ripeness.”

Clive has more advice: “Lees contact can make a huge di erence to the mid-palate.” ADVICE TO WINE LOVERS: When you pay less, don’t expect big, bold, well-oaked wines. Instead, you should  nd fresh, well balanced, fruity wines that will please and charm you.

ROSÉ ALL DAY

Lately very fashionable, we are seeing an explosion of rosés, from bone dry to lusciously sweet, from single varietal o erings to multivarietal blends. Meant to be fresh and lively— these wines are not for ageing—they are the perfect summer tipple. Should they be easy and forgettable? Absolutely not, according to our picky panel members who want more creativity, more  avour and better balance from this style.

First, a look at the dry versions.

“ e very low alcohol wines are also very low on  avour,” Winnie says.

“Only certain varieties work—the white and red blends really don’t work and Merlot certainly doesn’t,” says Christine. Oh dear, another blow for Merlot. Just exactly where does it work?

“My favourites are the Cabs, I love that fresh herbal quality. Shiraz doesn’t work either,” says Irina. “It’s o en very austere and earthy.”

What about colour?  ere is huge variation in depth of colour from the palest blush pink to deepest rosé, almost a pale red. All are permissible according to the Wine and Spirit Board regulations.

“Colour does not matter, except if very dark, then I get worried,” says Christine.

Winnie changes tack with: “ e blends here have not been as carefully worked out as with our red blends. Some are really odd.”

“And many are very shy on the nose,” adds Claude. Dave too, “I wrote ‘nil’ so many times.”

CLUB: Idiom Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc Petit Verdot 2014

ALSO LIKED: Anthonij Rupert Optima 2014, Quoin Fat Barrel 2014, Waverley Hills De Huijsbosch 2016, Wildekrans Cabernet Franc Merlot 2014

Bonnievale Shiraz 2016, Compagnies Drift Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2017, Doolhof Lady in Red 2016, Flagstone Treaty Tree Cabernet Malbec Merlot 2016, Haskell IV 2013, Idiom Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc Petit Verdot Malbec 2015, Idiom Merlot Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot Malbec 2016, Labri Affinity 2014, Landskroon Paul de Villiers Reserve 2016, McGregor Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2017, Morgenhof Estate 2012, Nitida Calligraphy 2015, Overhex Balance Classic Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2016, Quoin Fat Barrel OTB 2013, Under Oaks Just B 2015

CLUB: Spier Signature Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2018 ALSO LIKED: Badsberg Perlé Moscato 2017, Bonnievale Dusk NV, Knorhoek Two Cubs Rosé 2018, Diemersfontein Rosé 2018

Darling Cellars Pyjama Bush Rosé 2018, Dragon Back Mountain Meduim Sweet Rosé NV, Duke of Wellington No 5 White Pinotage 2018, Excelsior Caitlyn Rosé 2018, Groote Post Pinot Noir Rosé 2018, Hermanuspietersfontein Bloos 2017, Hidden Valley Treasure 2017, Knorhoek Two Cubs Rosé 2018, Klein Constantia KC Rosé 2017, Le Pommier Rosé 2018, Overhex Magaliesburg NV, Simonsvlei Lifestyle Pinotage Rosé 2017, Stellenbosch Versus Natural Sweet Rosé NV, Waterkloof False Bay Whole Bunch Cinsault Mourvédre 2017, Wellington Collection Moscato Blushing Pino Frizzante NV

“And, some have very high acidity,” says Margaret.  is is not going well, so what do we want?

Margaret: “A fruity  avour.”

Christine: “Something with  avour.”

Irina: “More body.”

But Winnie tops it all: “A smile on my face!”  en she goes on the attack, “Everyone has jumped on the rosé bandwagon,” she says, “so they should be getting it jolly well right.”

“ ere are a lot of missed opportunities here,” Irina says, “and it’s a pity. I like rosés generally and always have.  ey’re so useful—I serve them with starters when I do a red wine dinner.”

But what of the sweetish rosés? Suddenly everyone is smiling.

“I like those that are not too sweet, especially from muscats which have a lovely perfume, terri c  oral  avours and show charm and delicacy,” says Irina.

“ e ones with moderate sugar had so much more than the dry wines—at least there is something there,” says Winnie.

“And no cloying sweetness,” Irina adds.

Christine is succinct: “ ese appeal to di erent consumers,” she says, “some are delicious, but will not be for Reserve or Wine-of-the-Month Club members.”

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA

CRAFTED OVER THREE GENERATIONS

Hermanuspietersfontein Kat met die Houtbeen 2015

ALSO LIKED: Allée Bleue Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Môreson Miss Molly Kitchen Thief Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Simonsig Sunbird Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Strandveld First Sighting Sauvignon Blanc 2017

Bonnievale Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Bosman Upper Hemel en Aarde Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Clos Malverne Sauvignon Blanc 2017, De Wet Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Hermanuspietersfontein Kaalvoet Meisie Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Lutzville Vintales Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Louisvale O’Connell’s Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Meerendal Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Mount Vernon Three Peaks Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Ormonde Chip Off The Old Block Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Rietvallei John B Sauvignon Blanc 2018, Van Loveren Christina Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Waterkloof False Bay Windswept Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Waterkloof Peacock Wild Ferment Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Waterkloof Sauvignon Blanc 2017

Van Loveren Vineyards has been in the Retief family since 1937, when Hennie Retief Snr purchased land in Robertson. Hennie Snr made his first wine in 1939 and it wasn’t long before his sons, Nico and Wynand, joined him on the farm. Following on from Nico & Wynand’s success, their sons also joined the family business one by one––Hennie, Bussell, Phillip and Neil. First released in 2017, the Retief Reserve is a celebration of over 80 years of winemaking in the Robertson Valley, and a benchmark for the many generations to follow. RETIEF RESERVE CAPE RED BLEND Flavours of cherry, blackberry and vanilla radiate from the palate, followed by soft tannins and a dark chocolate finish.

RETIEF RESERVE CAPE WHITE BLEND Enjoy gentle aromas of orange blossom, lemon peel, peach and soft citrus, which are complemented by soft vanilla spice and a long elegant finish.