SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY DAVID BIGGS ON A FAMILY ATTEMPT AT WINEMAKING

My grandparents arrived on what is now the family farm a century ago. It was a tough time for stock farmers and they trekked across the drought-stricken Karoo on foot and donkey cart, herding their small ock of sheep, goats and cows ahead of them.

When they arrived at their new home they found a row of gnarled and unpruned grapevines planted among the grey Karoo scrub, table grapes of the variety called Crystal. ey decided to call the farm “Grapevale.” ose vines have survived for generations, but seldom provided anything more useful than shade and occasionally food for starlings.

Usually the crop is too small even to bother about harvesting. One year—long ago —good summer rains fell and to everybody’s astonishment, a generous crop of sweet, fat grapes appeared on the vines.

Farmers are ever ready to take advantage of Nature’s bounty and my father (who never drank wine) said: “Let’s make wine this year.” His ignorance of the art of winemaking was total but his con dence was boundless. “What can be di cult about making wine?” he said. “Wine is just vrot grape juice.” e farm had recently switched from generator-produced electricity to the stu sold by Eskom, so there were several large glass storage batteries lying around unused. ese were cleaned and pressed into service. As they were open-topped we made plywood lids for them and sealed them with a powerful and pungent contact adhesive called Genkem. A few handfuls of yeast from granny’s kitchen were added to the juice, the plywood lids were glued on and the wine was le to vrot in its own good time.

A er a couple of weeks, it was decanted into bottles and stored in the lo . From time to time a bottle would be cautiously opened and tasted. Frankly, it was unspeakably dreadful and tasted and smelled only of contact adhesive. It was nicknamed “Genkem Wine” and le strictly alone.

Eventually, my father passed away and somebody emptied the Genkem wine down the drain. Nobody minded. Some 10 years later I was looking for something in one of the farm storerooms when I came across two surviving bottles of that Genkem Wine.

Out of curiosity I opened one, poured a tentative glass and took a tip. It was delicious! It had turned a rich amber colour and was honey-sweet. All traces of contact adhesive had vanished. Wise winemakers will tell you they can use all the latest technology and skill they have, but there’s always a small element of magic that turns a good wine into a great one. at Genkem wine was a unique blend of zero percent skill and 100 percent magic. I shall not experience its equal again.

RECENT AWARDS: Two Gold medals at the SA Olive Oil Awards, awarded for our Morgenster Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Don Carlo Extra Virgin Olive Oil | Morgenster Extra Virgin Olive Oil named under the ABSA Top 10 Olive Oils in South Africa | Morgenster Extra Virgin Olive Oil received a score of 99% by the authoritative International guide FLOS OLEI 2021 | Lourens River Valley 2013: Trophy for Best Bordeaux blend, Michelangelo International Wine & Spirits Awards | Morgenster Estate Reserve 2013: Double Gold medal, Michelangelo International Wine & Spirits Award | Lourens River Valley 2014: Riedel Trophy for Best Bordeaux Blend, Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show.

Ending 2020 on a high, Morgenster has recently been awarded with some of the industry’s most prestigious awards for olive oil and wine.

Family-owned and family-run, Morgenster Estate has a long history dating back 300 years. Situated near the foothills of the Helderberg Mountain in Somerset West, we produce award-winning Bordeaux and Italian styled wines and extra virgin olive oil. Visit our beautiful estate, restaurant, and shop to discover all that we have to offer.