COSNEWS-SEPT2010b

tHE uk’S onLY FREE oF cHaRgE mEdicaL aEStHEticS tRadE magaZinE

THE VOICE OF YOUR INDUSTRY www.cosmeticnewsuk.com september 2010

FIRST LOOK

BE THE fIrST To dIScovEr WHaT WIll BE HappENINg aT THE coSmETIc NEWS Expo 2011

BIG DEBATE

INdUSTry vIEWS oN THE pENdINg laSEr aNd Ipl rEgUlaTIoN cHaNgES

ACNE SPECIAL WE look aT THE caUSES of acNE aNd ExamINE THE moST EffEcTIvE TrEaTmENT opTIoNS from TopIcal drUgS To laSEr aNd lIgHT

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE

in combination combining hydroquinone and tretinoin

SELF PRomotion Promoting your business

StEP-bY-StEP PRioRi advanced aHa Peel ®

You get more from Med-fx At Med-fx we give you more. Not only do we supply an ever-increasing range of Botulinum Toxins, Dermal Fillers, Skin Peels and Cosmeceuticals but also a huge range of

Free Next Day Delivery* Full Pharmacy Service

thousands of essential surgical accessories and general consumables.

Chemical Peels

Add to this free next-day delivery,* a full

Botulinum Toxin Type A

pharmacy service, our on-going promotions and specialist training courses and you can

Dermal Fillers

see just how much Med-fx has to offer.

So if you want more from your aesthetic

Surgical Accessories

product supplier, why not call Med-fx today?

Special Offers Featured here are just a few of the special offers and new products currently available…

LMX4

Topical Anaesthetic 5g

Only

£2.98!

Priori Age Defying Body NEW! Cream

Rennova Rennova Fill £75.00!

Rennova Lift £85.00!

Buy 5 get 1 FREE! Buy 20 get 5 FREE!

Skin Rejuvenation Products

Mineral Make-up Consumable Items

The Max

You can call us FREE on:

Complete product range now available!

or why not visit us on-line:

From Image Skincare. NEW!

Hands-on Training Courses

0800 783 06 05 medfx.co.uk

Buy 6 Get 1 FREE!

For these offers and more call our sales team today.

Med-fx Limited, Unit 3, Perry Way, Witham, Essex CM8 3SX Tel: 01376 532832 Fax: 01376 532801 Email: sales@medfx.co.uk Offers are valid 1st September - 30th November 2010 and are subject to availability.

All prices are subject to VAT. *Excludes Saturday deliveries.

The on e stop a e sthetic s s ho p

EDITOR’S LETTER

WElcomE To THE SEpTEmBEr ISSUE of coSmETIc NEWS. September is a month where, after the downtime of the summer, it’s back to business as usual and, as such, it is a particularly good time of year to be marketing your practice. Over the last four issues of Cosmetic News, we have been running a series of articles on the four P’s of marketing. Check out our Business Focus on pages 49-50 to read this month’s article or go online to www.cosmeticnewsuk.com where you can now find all of our back issues in digital form.

September also marks the start of a new season of conferences and meetings with the newly launched British association of cosmetic Nurses and Iaafa holding their annual meetings in london this month. cosmetic News will be attending both these events and I am looking forward to seeing some familiar faces as well as meeting some new ones too! on the subject of meetings, we have been busy making plans for our own event, The cosmetic News Expo, which will take place at the Business design centre in Islington, london on may 6-7 2011. preparations are already in full swing for what promises to be an even bigger and better event than last year with business workshops, live demos and a full educational programme running over the two days. Turn to page 14 for a first look at what will be happening. also in this month’s issue, we examine one of the most common but difficult to treat skin conditions, acne.

We speak to leading dermatologist dr Nick lowe and acne guru dr Tony chu about its causes and the most successful treatments, from topical medications to laser and Ipl (p26-30). We also find out first hand what it is like to go through the registration process with the IHaS from a clinic that has done it (p40) and get key opinion leaders to give their views on the pending laser and Ipl regulation changes (p18-21).

September is a month where, after the downtime of the summer, it’s back to business as usual and, as such, it is a particularly good time of year to be marketing your practice

REMOTE CONSULTATIONS • Remote consultations by phone or video call 9am-9pm 7 days/week

• Free UK and European Advanced Training

• Scripts forwarded instantlycomplies with MHRA and NMC standards (+£20,000 indemnity)

• For 2011 remote consultations can credit V300 mentoring (free of charge)

• BOTOX® TRAINING £400 FOR FULL DAY

• Discounted Aesthetic Products and Insurance

EDITOR’S ChOICE

CONTENTS 4 6 12 14 16 18 23 24

EdITor’S cHoIcE

Vicky Eldridge tries out one of the Image Skincare peels

INdUSTry NEWS

We round up the latest industry news

voIcE of THE INdUSTry

Find out the latest industry gossip from this month’s columnist

Expo prEvIEW

Be the first to find out what the Cosmetic News Expo 2011 has in store for you as we reveal our initial conference programme and more

oN THE ScENE

Out and about in the industry this month

THE BIg dEBaTE

With changes to the regulation of laser and IPL taking place next month, we ask some key opinion leaders their views on how this will affect the industry

pEoplE IN profIlE

We speak to the MD of L’Oreal Cosmetique Active Denis Donohoe about the company’s plans for SkinCeutcials

5 mINUTE INTErvIEW

We chat to Dr Sandeep Cliff

27-32 acNE SpEcIal

Acne is one of the most common skin conditions yet it it is one of the most difficult to treat. As part of this month’s Special Feature we speak to leading dermatologist Dr Nick Lowe and acne guru Tony Chu about the causes and treatment options from topical medications to laser and light treatments.

35 38

42 44 46 48 50 52 54

ImAGE SkINCARE LIGhTENING LIFT

vIEW oN

When I interviewed Renew medica’s senior clinic manager, Wilma Bird for the July issue of Cosmetic News, she absolutely raved about the Image Skincare range of products and professional treatments, so when I was given the opportunity to have a treatment, I jumped at the chance. after a consultation with the company’s accounts manager and educator Trishna Shah I hoped up on the treatment couch for the 20 minute treatment. Trishna started by taking off my make-up and degreasing my skin. She then prepared the base of the peel, a blend of 50% lactic and kojic acid, specifically designed to treat pigmentation. She also added a couple of drops of hyaluronic enhancer and idebenone to help rehydrate my skin. after the peel was removed she put on the vital c™ Hydrating Enzyme mask, which contains papaya and pineapple enzymes as well as vitamin c, E and retinol before applying the lightening serum, which contains natural skin lighteners including kojic acid. finally ageless ™ Total retinol a crème with retinol enhancer was applied to help my skin peel better along with an eye gel to treat dark circles, the brand’s signature Solar defense organic Spf 30 from its Sun ™ range and the ormedic™ lip Enhancement complex.

I was given an aftercare kit to take away with me with a selection of travel sized products from the vital c ™ range, which have a fantastic orangey smell. I was to use three products in the morning and three in the evening, which was simple and easy to follow. I have only even had two peels before both of which were very low level and had virtually no downtime so I was a little apprehensive about having a peel done that

Constance Campion gives her View On the importance of Skin Health Restoration in medical aesthetic and cosmetic dermatology clinics

involved a bit more downtime. However I needn’t have worried. for a

clINIcal STUdy

about a week afterwards, however the side effects were minimal and just

We examine the results of a multi-centre investigator-masked study into the further enhancement of facial appearance with a hydroquinone/tretinoin skincare system in patients previously treated with botulinum toxin type A

Q&a

We find out first hand what registering for the IHAS Shared Regulation Scheme is like form Dr Harminder Singh

STEp By STEp

Our guide to the PRIORI® Advanced AHA Skin Renewal Multi- Layer Peel

prodUcT focUS

In light of its recently obtained license for chronic migraine, we take a look at the uses of Botox® outside of cosmetics

prodUcT NEWS

We round up the latest product news

BUSINESS focUS

In the latest of a series of article on the four P’s of marketing, Hilary Ford tells you how to promote your business

daTES for THE dIary

Training course, conference and meeting dates

dIrEcTory

Our guide to the manufacturers, suppliers and business services featured in this month’s issue

couple of days following treatment my face felt slightly tight and itchy and a little bit sun-burnt and I also got some minor flaking and peeling for over a week later my skin was looking fabulous! my complexion definitely looked more even and my skin looked fresh and rejuvenated. If I was a paying customer I would definitely go back for more both of the treatment and the products.

charlotte Body Publisher 01268 754 897 charlotte@creativemedialtd.co.uk vicky Eldridge Editor 01268 754 897 m: 07940 083 677 vicky@creativemedialtd.co.uk Emilia cops Associate Publisher 01268 754 897 emilia@creativemedialtd.co.uk peter Johnson, Art Director 01268 754 897 peter.johnson@creativemedialtd.co.uk charlie crocker Designer 01268 754 897 design@creativemedialtd.co.uk Hollie-Jane dunwell Account manager 01268 754 897 hollie.jane@creativemedialtd.co.uk Shauna peters Production Assistant 01268 754 897 shauna.peters@creativemedialtd.co.uk

DISCLAIMER The editor and the publishers do not necessarily agree with the views expressed by contributors nor do they accept responsibility for any errors in the transmission of the subject matter in this publication. In all matters the editor’s decision is final.

Summer Smoothies

To find out more about Belotero’s smooth finish, call customer services on 0208 236 3516 or email customerservices@merz.com

Your partner in injectable facial aesthetics

Industry News | Round Up

MINISTER Of STATE fOR hEALTh CONfIRMS SUPPORT fOR IhAS REGISTER Of INJECTABLE COSMETIC PROVIDERS The new minister of State for health, Simon Burns, confirmed his backing for the IhAS Register of Injectable Cosmetic Providers, set to go live to the public this month. Commenting on the register, mr Burns said, “The IhAS Register of Injectable Cosmetic Providers has the potential to make a very real difference to the safety and quality of services on offer in this growing industry.”

The register runs background screens and registers Quality assurance mark approval for regulated healthcare professionals (doctors, registered nurses and dentists) and organisations and facilities involved in injectable cosmetics and has also received the firm support of professor Sir Bruce keogh, NHS medical director, department of Health, who stated, “I continue to support industry-led regulation as the best way forward for these treatments and I was pleased with the initial launch of the Treatments you can Trust scheme this year.”

The IHaS register of Injectable cosmetic providers, which was backed by the former chief medical officer professor Sir liam donaldson and received funding from the department of Health, has been live to providers since april enabling them to apply for registration through www.treatmentsyoucantrust.co.uk and shown on the directory. Sally Taber, director of the IHaS, commented, “as a result of the stringent criteria required to register on Treatments you can Trust, we can see already that some providers are reassessing their own governance structures in order for them to qualify; this can only have positive effects.” organisations and solo practitioners must meet the high IHaS standards and training principles, which specify that only doctors, dentists and registered nurses can be involved in the delivery of these injectable cosmetic treatments to patients. all practitioners are accountable to their statutory regulators and must adhere to the standards set by the general medical council, the general dental council and the Nursing and midwifery council. providers already directory enabled and clearly visible on the register, include Bupa dental, freedom Health, medizen, sk:n, renew clinic, The Harley medical group and Transform. See this month’s Q&a (p40) for a first hand account of what registering for the scheme is like form a clinic that has been through the process.

DR CARL ThORNfELDT VISITS UK

Leading US dermatologist Dr Carl Thornfeldt will be visiting the Uk this month to host a series of exclusive free Epionce® Users meetings.

The events will take place on September 27 at the macdonald Hotel and Spa, manchester from 12-6pm and october 1 at the royal Society medicine, london from 10-4pm. The interactive users meetings are suitable for both existing Epionce® customers and those interested in hearing from the founder of a innovative and scientifically proven skincare range. drr Thornfeldt, who created the Epionce® range, will present his research and provide demonstrations as well as focusing on his new strategy for treating hyperpigmentation with his latest product, melanolyte Tx. please contact lucy dowling on lucy@episcienceseurope.co.uk or call 01245 227 788.

New e-clinic launches this month Includes all the features you know and love, plus: • Postcode lookups for faster addresses • Online credit card processing • Stock control with barcode support • Drag and drop photos and scans • Targeted marketing by text and email • Reports with visual graphs • iPhone and iPad integration • Link to website for fast lead follow up Call 01274 530505 for your free demo CD or email info@e-clinic.uk.com

NEwS IN BRIEf INTERNaTIONal MaSTERS The German University of Dresden and EuroMediCom have jointly established the first International Masters Degree in Preventive and anti-aging Medicine for physicians. The two-year programme takes a total of 558 hours and includes three five-day seminars plus e-learning of 228 hours. The seminars will take place in three different locations in European countries, the first one will be taking place previously to the European Congress of anti-aging Medicine EMaa (European Masters in anti-aging Medicine) in Paris from October 10 to 14 and costs €3,000 euros.

VICkY RECORDS PODCaST

Cosmetic News editor Vicky Eldridge has recorded a podcast for Cosmetic Courses. Vicky was interviewed by plastic surgeon adrian Richards, the medical director of Cosmetic Courses as well as aurora Clinics, who came up with the idea after noticing a gap in the market. The series of educational podcasts are available to download via the Cosmetic Courses website and iTunes. Mr Richards plans to do a new episode every week with topics covering a wide range of issues. To hear Vicky’s interview or any of the other podcasts visit www. cosmeticcourses.co.uk.

BaCD aUTUMN MEETING The British association of Cosmetic Doctors (BaCD) will be holding its autumn meeting next month. The event will take place at The Four Pillars Hotel, Cotswold Water Park, South Cerney, Gloucestershire on October 16. For more information contact Sharon or kim at the BaCD office on 01474 823 900.

BaCN INaUGURal MEETING The newly launched British association of Cosmetic Nurses (BaCN) will be holding its first members meeting this month. The event will take place at The Royal College of Physicians on September 11. The association was formed in a bid to represent, serve and be the unified voice for cosmetic nurses. For more information, please visit www.cosmeticnurses.org

GUIDES GO lIVE

The newly re-launched Cosmetic Surgery and Beauty Guides have now gone live. The free online magazines, a sister publication to Cosmetic News, are designed to give consumers advice and information about cosmetic surgery and aesthetic treatments and to help them find a safe and ethical practitioner in their area. The Essex Guide and The london Guide are now avaialble digitally at www.cosmeticsurgeryandbeautyguide.co.uk.

Results You Can RelY on “The ultimate in combination laser and light therapy for face, hands and body to optimize results.”

InnovatIve technology Safe, effective treatments with the industry’s most dynamic product portfolio, distinguished by expandable modular platforms that adapt to your changing needs and future breakthroughs.

Before

Before

After

Mini 360 Protocol for the face and neck Photos courtesy: James Chan, MD

After

Before

AFT 570 SR

Photos courtesy: Fernando Stengel, MD

After

Pixel Laser

Photos courtesy: Amber Brown, MD

Multiple technologies can be combined during a single session or repeated frequently and spread out over 60 days.

• When performed in a single treatment session, the Mini Laser360TM program consists of AFT for pigment and vascularity, ST for skin tightening, and Pixel for fractionated skin resurfacing.

• The Traditional Laser360 treatment consists of 4-6 treatment sessions, layering multiple technologies (AFT, ST and Pixel), spaced about 10-15 days apart over a 60-day period.

Pixel ST

Before

AFT

After

Before

AFT 420 Acne

Photos courtesy: Elizabeth VanderVeer, MD

Before AFT 540 VP

After

Photos courtesy: Elizabeth VanderVeer, MD

After

Pixel Laser

Photos courtesy: Bhupendra Patel, MD

Before

After

Tattoo Removal - Photos Courtesy: Fernando

Urdiales, Instituto Médico Miramar, Málaga , Spain

ContaCt us on: tel: 0845 1707788, info@a-b-c-uk.com, www.abclasers.co.uk

Before

After

Traditional Laser360

Photos courtesy: Rick Jackson, MD

WINNER - UK BEST LASER SUPPLIER 2008-2009 As voted by clinics

Industry News | Round Up

UK’S BEST Of BREAST PUT TO ThE TEST The Uk’s only manufacturer of breast implants has beat international

by allergan and mentor who scored an average of six, Sebbin and Silimed

competition and come out on top in a recent survey into the best breast

(five) and Eurosilicone (four). The results highlighted that most companies

implants on the market, carried out by The Body Bible.

have similar implants, with very little to choose between them, but Nagor ranked the highest in the survey by virtue of its unique extensive warranty

The news that a french implants manufacturer was using an illegal gel

policy. This gives a lifetime guarantee on all Nagor implants against

with no protective barrier to stop the silicone from migrating around the

capsular contracture or rupture, and will cover a size change above and

body has plunged thousands of women into uncertainty about the safety

below the implant.

of their implants. This prompted The Body Bible, a new Which?-style online guide launched by consultant plastic surgeon and member of the British

according to kevin clarke, sales and marketing manager for Nagor, which

association of aesthetic plastic Surgeons (BaapS), vik vijh, to carry out

is the only manufacturer based in the Uk, “We are delighted to top the poll

a survey among plastic surgeons to find the best breast implants on the

in The Body Bible’s best breast implant survey as we were up against some

market and help women make informed choices when choosing implants.

very well-known brands. We pride ourselves on the quality of our products which are made in the Uk and our patient warranty, which is a lifetime

The key areas covered in the questionnaire included: range of implants,

guarantee against capsular contracture and rupture. We work closely with

types and test certification for wear and tear, rate of return for rupture,

top practitioners in the development of our range and support tomorrow’s

capsular contracture rates, ability to retain shape and patient warranty

surgeons through funding cosmetic fellowship programmes. This accolade

– among others. Each area was assessed on a score basis (1-10). Nagor

demonstrates perfectly our commitment to providing the best implants on

came top of the league board with an average score of seven, followed

the market.”

NON-SURGICAL COSMETIC PROCEDURES TOP ThE MILLION MARK

NINE OUT Of TEN SURGEONS SAy QUALITy ASSURANCE MARK IS ‘A wASTE Of TAxPAyERS’ MONEy’

The number of non-surgical

A poll by the Uk’s largest network of consultant plastic surgeons,

procedures performed in the

SaferCosmeticSurgery (www.safercosmeticsurgery.co.uk) has revealed that

Uk has risen impressively

nine out of 10 (93%) do not support the Independent healthcare Advisory

from 950,000 in 2008 to 1.1

Services’ (IhAS) Register of Injectable Cosmetic Providers. The scheme,

million in 2009, according

created under the direction of the Department of health, claims it will help the

to mintel. Furthermore, non-

public avoid ‘cosmetic cowboys’ but has been branded ‘a waste of taxpayers’

surgical procedures are

money by the country’s top surgeons.

now estimated to account for more than nine in ten

according to SafercosmeticSurgery founding member charles Nduka, a consultant

(92%) of all cosmetic surgery

plastic surgeon and member of the British association of aesthetic plastic Surgeons

procedures performed,

(BaapS), “over two hundred members of the BaapS were polled – all highly trained

taking 74% of market value.

and experienced Uk surgeons – and 93% said that did not support the scheme.

Surgical procedures have

In fact less than 4% stated they would join. The scheme offers little protection

grown by almost 9% between

from inexperienced or poorly trained practitioners, so the public is still at risk from

2008 and 2010 with value increasing by almost 30% over

cosmetic cowboys.”

the same two-year period.

Indeed, despite concern about money, demand for

consultant plastic surgeon, former president of the BaapS and member of

cosmetic surgery has been sustained during the recession.

SafercosmeticSurgery, adam Searle, added, ‘It is utter madness that a scheme

The total market achieved growth of some 17% between

born out of a real need to regulate and control invasive cosmetic treatments

2008 and 2010, to reach an estimated value of £2.3 billion in

should be part funded by providers, and then proceed to celebrate an increase

2010. With an overall estimated 19 million adults (48%) saying

in capture of ‘business’ for those who simply pay to join in. It’s a muddle, and there

they would like to have some form of cosmetic surgery,

should be no surprise that there is a reluctance from professional associations to

there is even further potential for the industry to convert

support such a hypocritical approach.’

potential patients and mintel forecasts the market to grow to £3.6 billion by 2015. Today, the annual number of cosmetic

mr Nduka continues, “Those of us working in this profession every day can clearly

procedures in Britain stands at 1.3 million – up 30% over the

see this voluntary register does not address the real problems. providers of injectable

past two years alone.

treatments who have operated outside of the care Quality commission registration

alexandra richmond, Senior Health and Beauty analyst at

thus far cannot be trusted to self-regulate. providers who are already operating

mintel, said, “While traditional procedures maintain their

within accepted guidelines, qualifications and facilities aren’t the ones causing the

popularity, the non-surgical sector is booming. accessibility

problems.”

has been a key driving force, with consumers now able to have a procedure in their lunch break or alongside their

In response dr andrew vallance-owen, chair of the IHaS Working group, says, “It is

dental appointment. In addition, access to both surgical

disappointing that some plastic surgeons are trying to damage the scheme before

and non-surgical procedures is improving with many leading

it has started. They appear only to want plastic surgeons to be able to provide

providers opening new hospitals and clinics across the Uk,

these non-surgical injectable treatments. This is too restrictive and totally unrealistic.

which is helping to support further growth within the industry.

This must raise a fear, hopefully unwarranted, that they are more concerned about

value growth should pick up the pace further in 2011 as

protecting their market than protecting patients.”

improved consumer confidence buoys spend in the sector.”

8

cosmeticnewsuk.com

INTRODUCING RESTYLANE® SKINCARE

Now Restylane provides the total skin revitalisation approach to meet your patients’ needs. Combining the safety and efficacy of Restylane aesthetic treatments with the innovative Restylane Skincare range, you can make long lasting visible improvement to your patients’ looks and skin quality to maximise patient satisfaction.

For more information contact your territory manager, call 020 7976 3290 or visit

www.q-medpractitioner.com/uk Q-Med (UK) Ltd, 6th Floor, 10 Dean Farrar Street, London SW1H 0DX

Restylane is a trademark owned by Q-Med AB

Restylane Skincare provides long lasting hydration and added skin protection to give soft, nourished, beautiful, healthy looking skin.

Industry News | Round Up

NEwS IN BRIEf

ThE hARLEy MEDICAL GROUP SEES SPEEDO SAG ExPLOSION

lIPOSUCTION OF THE FEMalE BREaST SaFE

The harley medical Group is seeing increasing numbers of men looking to go under the scalpel to banish the ’Speedo sag’. With celebrities such as David Beckham, hugh Jackman and Justin Timberlake championing the less-is-more beach look, men across the country are likewise taking pride in their physique. As a result, The harley medical Group has seen 24% more men bookings for abdominoplasty (tummy tuck) operations to get rid of their ’Speedo sag’ over the last month compared to the same period last year. liz dale, director at The Harley medical group, commented, “The more traditional, baggy board shorts hid a multitude of sins. We’ve heard from our nurses anecdotally that one of the principle drivers for male tummy tuck ops in the lead up to the summer season is the impending beach reveal. many of the men that come to us for ’Speedo sag’ surgery have lost weight or been on a fitness drive and are looking for surgery to remove stubborn pockets of fat or unsightly, loose flaps of skin on their paunch.” mr frati, consultant cosmetic surgeon at The Harley medical group commented, “an abdominoplasty to remove ’Speedo sag’ involves an incision just above the pubic area. This surgery removes excess skin and fat and tightens the muscular and fascia parts of the stomach, leaving it flatter and more taute. as well as seeing more men having this surgical procedure, liposuction to the upper thigh area, or the flanks, is increasingly popular” lisa littlehales, nurse counsellor, The Harley medical group, said, “It’s not just the ’Speedo sag’ that men are looking to banish, we’ve also seen a rise in male bookings for laser hair removal to the ’snail trail’ area - the line of hair from the navel down to the underwear line”

IIAA APPOINTS NEw JANE IREDALE MAKEUP ARTIST

POPULARITy Of COSMETIC SURGERy GROwING AMONG MINORITIES

Increasing

of Cosmetic Surgery, more

demand for

than half of respondents

professional

said they think the

makeovers

popularity of cosmetic

has led to the

surgery has grown among

recruitment

members of their racial/

of Donna

ethnic group in the last five

Lowe by the

years.

In a survey carried out by the American Academy

International Institute for

among racial/ethnic

Anti-Ageing (iiaa). Donna has been

groups, cosmetic surgery

appointed as a make-up artist to

was reported to be most

cover the midlands, working with

popular with asians (31.4%

mineral cosmetics brand jane

of respondents), followed by

iredale.

Hispanics (27.4%) and africanamericans (18.8%). about one

donna, a qualified beauty therapist,

quarter of respondents surveyed indicated they knew someone of

trained to be a make-up artist at

the same racial/ethnic background who had had cosmetic surgery.

the london college of fashion. She

“cosmetic surgery is en vogue no matter who you are,” said mark

specialised in creating looks for

Berman, md, president of the american academy of cosmetic

catwalk and editorial while working

Surgery. “feeling better about yourself and making improvements to

with a leading global retail colour

your looks is thankfully not limited to a specific race or culture.”

cosmetics brand. She has been in the industry for seven years and has

for invasive cosmetic surgery procedures, the most common surgery

worked on many graduate projects

for asian respondents was a face-lift. among black respondents,

with students. other roles have

the top procedure was liposuction and for Hispanic respondents,

included working as an in-flight beauty

the most popular procedure was abdominoplasty (tummy tuck).

therapist for virgin atlantic and most

more than 30% of respondents said they would seek out a cosmetic

recently she was part of a creative

surgeon of the same race/ethnicity as themselves. and over half of

team organising in-salon make-up

respondents (56.6%) said it would be difficult to find a surgeon of the

events and tutorials for clients.

same race/ethnicity as themselves.

10

cosmeticnewsuk.com

a study has been published in Dermatol Surg. to assess any potential damage to glandular tissue caused by liposuction of the female breast. The study examined specimens of the aspirate from 61 consecutive female patients who underwent liposuction of the breast using tumescent local anesthesia (Tla) and powered cannulae (PCs) were sent for histologic evaluation. In all cases, fat tissue was the main component observed in the breast aspirate specimens. In 58 cases, fragments of fibrotic tissue were found. In nine cases, minor fragments of the smallest glandular tissue ductuli were detected. In no case was there any sign of larger glandular structures. The study concluded liposuctions using Tla and PCs showed only minor signs of damage to glandular tissue in a small minority of patients.

UlTRaSONOGRaPHY USEFUl TOOl IN IDENTIFYING FIllERS

a study published in the august issue of Skin Res Technol has proved that ultrasonography to be a useful, non-invasive tool for the identification of the presence and type of filler injected. in the skin Between December 2006 and april 2009, 36 subjects, aged 25-45, who had received lip or nasolabial fold filler augmentation, were enrolled for a high-frequency sonographic examination by a blinded investigator. The study showed that it was always possible to identify the filler at the site of injection. Seldom was it possible to discover a silent inflammatory reaction, otherwise unsuspected. The sonographic images differed according to the temporary or the permanent nature of the filler.

aDVaNCED SEMINaRS GMT TEC and Sally Durant are pleased to announce a series of one-day seminars aimed at the professional and business development of the serious skincare practitioner. Drawing on extensive experience, the events will provide an in-depth view of the ways in which to build your skin heath practice and its reputation for quality of service. The seminars cost £125 per day and will take place on Monday September 27 at The king’s Fund, london; Monday September 4 at The SIMTR Centre, Birmingham; Monday October 18 in Bristol and Monday November 1 in the North of England at a venue to be confirmed.

WORlDWIDE STaTS after a year-long process the International Society of aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ISaPS) has produced the ‘ISaPS Biennial Global Survey™’ of plastic surgeons and procedures in the top 25 countries and regions – representing 75% of all procedures in 2009. The ISaPS Survey marks the first time reliable international plastic surgery data has been obtained and analysed by independent statistical specialists.

Foad Nahai, MD president of ISaPS said, “The society was founded 40 years ago at the United Nations by a group of concerned and proactive plastic surgeons. We could think of no better way of commemorating this important milestone than by commissioning and releasing this breakthrough survey.”

the best laser in the world and dont just take our word for it...

BLUE

I am happy to confirm that the Soprano XL Hair Removal system has been very well received by our patients and that they have all been truly amazed that it is a pain free treatment.

The staff have found the laser system very easy and safe to use and we have been very pleased with the service and support we have received from ABC Lasers. dr rita rakus mBBs Founder member of the BaCd, Clinic in Knightsbridge. Known as the London Lip Queen.

“Soprano painless hair removal has transformed the laser hair removal experience for our clients. Working with other Lasers too, the Soprano hits all the right notes.” dr patrick Bowler. Founder & medical director of Court House chain of 10 Clinics and co founder of the British association of Cosmetic doctors BaCd.

“We offer a wide range of treatment modalities for clients seeking to remove unwanted hair using technology supplied

by ABC lasers. The Soprano XL has enabled us to provide previously unavailable pain-free treatment and successfully include darker skin types in our patient pool. We recommend the Soprano XL without reservation.” dr. peter ilori is the founder of ‘the Beauty society’ - a premier provider of medical spa, aesthetic, dental and specialist orthodontic services.

When opening my new clinic I was looking for a system which stood above the rest. The painless technology from the Soprano XL has opened up a new and increasing market for my business in both Laser Hair Removal and Skin Tightening. One year on, results are excellent and many of our new clients come by word-of-mouth recommendations from our happy client. dr ravi Jain, BaCd, owner riverbanks Clinic, winner Best new clinic award 2008-2009.

“Don’t just be another laser clinic” ‘Settle for nothing but the BEST - With unique SOPRANO treatments’

• PAIN FREE Laser Hair Removal • NEW PAIN FREE Skin Tightening • Patented ‘in motion’ technology • Faster than any other laser, with 10 Pulses per second! chest + abdomen in under 20min.

• Painless = absolute safety!

• Effectively Treats ALL Skin types including skin type 6 • SOPRANO is The only treatment of choice for sensitive areas such as Hollywood / Brazilian Bikini line clearance. uSP for your clinic • NO need for old technology of vacuum or cooling • NO consumables!

WINNER - UK BEST LASER SUPPLIER 2008-2009 As voted by clinics

CONTACT uS ON: Tel: 0845 1707788, info@a-b-c-uk.com, www.abclasers.co.uk

Outstanding patient awareness and demand.

visit: www.painfreehairfree.co.uk and see how your patients can locate you and see treatments Live on tV

Industry News | Round Up

wOMEN TURN TO SURGERy AfTER GETTING ‘LAShED’ An increasing number of women are turning to surgery to restore their eyelashes, after suffering permanent damage from false sets and eyelash extensions, according to a leading hair transplant specialist.

The farjo medical centre has revealed that a growing number of its patients are young women looking to reverse the damage caused by false eyelashes and eyelash extensions, which have become

Voice Of ThE INDUSTRy So my first column went down a storm, with comments like ‘a cross between Sex and the city and Bridget Jones (I think that one was from my mum), so on with chapter 2.

increasingly popular thanks to celebrity fans, such as cheryl cole and katie price.

Women as young as 20 are now turning to surgery to try and restore the damage caused when the glue used to place the false eyelashes creates tension, and in many cases pulls out the natural eyelash, as they are removed. dr Bessam farjo is past president of the International Society of Hair restoration Surgery (ISHrS), medical director of the Institute of

The summer hols went well except the Spf was more effective than bandages and having forgotten to pack a girl’s best friend (Tan in a can), I gradually became whiter and whiter as the week went on and returned home an albino. No sun damage but also no admirers so I bathed in fake Bake for a day and now look great.

Trichologists and founder of farjo medical centre. He said: “We’re seeing a significant number of enquiries from patients who have suffered from damage caused by repeatedly wearing false eyelashes. as with any hair follicle, eyelashes will cease to grow if they are repeatedly plucked out at the root. Hair transplant surgery may seem like an extreme solution, but in many cases it’s the only way to restore hair permanently. Even this method is only guaranteed as long as the person puts less stress on the hair follicle in future.”

CARLTON LAUNChES NEw STERISAfE™ wEBSITE The Carlton Group is ‘spreading the word, not the germs’ with

I forgot to mention last month that I spent my IHaS registration fee on chocolate and speed dating. let’s say the good ones had their tattoos spelt correctly and the bad ones didn’t have opposable thumbs, could be a good place to advertise if your Q-Switch laser is getting cold. With no luck at speed dating, I have decided to join the Ta (Testosterone army), can’t do much worse than my ex who was hung like Einstein with the brain of a horse! one colour that really didn’t make it this season was ‘I feel slightly sea sick green’ by merz, launched on the catwalks of paris and then quickly withdrawn. I guess seaweed is only good as a body wrap or with crispy duck. away from research lite and on to muller lite- I have worked out if you eat enough of them you can keep your calorie intake up to pre-diet levels.

the launch of its new Sterilsafe™ website: www.sterilsafe.co.uk.

The website focuses on the company’s cutting edge hygiene range, highlighting the innovative products, as well as the benefits for salons, spas and colleges.

The cost effective and easy to use products include a Sanitising Spray, concentrated cold Sterilising Solution, Sanitising Surface Wipes and a Hand mousse, making them ideal for any sterilising scenario. Each product uses a combination of known biocides in association with an inert polymer, so that, when applied, a coating remains on wet and dry surfaces and even hands. It is the only hygiene system that, after initial application, continues to work. for ease of use, all the products in the range may be purchased online at the new website.

Sterilsafe™ is based on new antimicrobial technology. The system effectively and economically eliminates and inhibits the growth of micro-organisms, bacteria and viruses, creating a hostile environment for microbes and a safe and sanitised one for beauty and spa treatments. Sterilsafe™ effectively eliminates and inhibits the growth of micro-organisms such as; bacteria including mrSa, c-difficile, Salmonella and E-coli and is effective against enveloped viruses, e.g.

HIv, Hepatitis B and SarS, as well as being highly efficient in preventing the spread of Swine flu, a strain of the H1N1 virus.

12

cosmeticnewsuk.com

The ‘remote consultation’ debate has been added to by a totally unknown dentist from gloucester who with great public spirit has given advice on the Nmc, BacN, gmc and Bacd. I can’t help but wonder, is this to get an honorary membership? apparently not, I just found out he teaches on a nurse prescriber course, so cancel the public spirit bit and the honorary membership. Talking of remote prescribing, I hear the BacN are now committee lite having dispensed with the services of a certain nursing couple-first blood to dr H. apparently the conference is going well but they can’t decide between gucci or roberto cavalli as a main sponsor, just give them both a stand girls. anyway, off to buy a camouflage maxi dress and some green make-up ready for my first Ta training...

Carrie (no sex in this city)

LYNTON’S LIGHT BASED AESTHETIC EQUIPMENT LYNTON has a comprehensive range of clinically proven IPL and Laser systems suitable for a wide range of applications.

To book a demonstration or for further information please call 0845 612 1545 or email info@lynton.co.uk quoting CN-SEP.

LUMINA

The flexible tool-box with IPL, Laser & Q-Switched technology.

• • • • •

Select IPL only, or IPL & Laser options.

High power for fast results.

Lifetime flexibility & adaptability.

Integrated printer for treatment recording.

Integrated patient database.

MATISSE

The leading fractional laser platform for dramatic skin rejuvenation and resurfacing.

• • • • •

Fractional Erbium: YAG at `540nm.

Long Pulse Alexandrite at 755nm.

Face & Body rejuvenation, stretch marks, wrinkles.

Scar and photo-damage treatments.

Permanent hair reduction (MATISSE HR model).

OMNILUX

Light therapy for skin rejuvenation and repair.

• • • • •

Our skin changes as we age, and damaging agents such as sunlight, smoking and pollution all leave their mark.

The Mene & Moy System of active cosmetics contains naturally occurring compounds that have been skilfully combined and presented in order to pass through the skin barrier to reach the dermis below.

Powerful concentrations of Vitamin C, Phytic and Glycolic Acids are combined with soothing and nourishing Chamomile, Vitamins E and A, Shea Butter, Orchid Oils and Bisabolol to create a range of highly effective anti-ageing creams and lotions to suit all skin types, ages and racial groups.

These unique formulations are available for home use or by your therapist in conjunction with the Mene & Moy Professional Range of clinical products.

Multiple treatment heads – Single platform technology.

Easy to operate – no hands on intervention – table top unit.

Optimized wavelength, intensity and dose – Clinically proven Treats all skin types – even tanned skin.

Proven results without the need of a topical photosensitiser.

Specialist Solutions for Non-surgical Aesthetic Procedures

www.lynton.co.uk

For further information about these innovative products call Medical Aesthetic Group on 02380 676733 or visit www.magroup.co.uk

MAG_MM System - half page Ad (265x95mm) Cosmetic News Feb 2010

Cosmetic News Expo 2011 | Preview

BUILDING ON SUCCESS Following the success of the inaugural Cosmetic News Expo in April this year, we give you a first look at what to expect from next year’s event

In April 2010 we launched the Uk’s largest free of charge conference and exhibition, the Cosmetic News Expo to great success and just five months on plans are in full swing for our second event, which will take place once again at the Business Design Centre in Islington on may 6 and 7 2011. designed to be even bigger and better than our inaugural show, the 2011 Expo will offer aesthetic professionals the chance to gain cpd accredited education at the same time as networking and exchanging information with their peers and finding out about the latest technologies and products on the market, all under one roof.

With preparations already well underway, the cosmetic News Expon 2011 is shaping up to be an unmissable event, bringing together more aesthetic practitioners under one roof than any other meeting in the Uk. The only free trade show and educational meeting in the Uk, the philosophy behind the cosmetic News Expo comes from Body media’s extensive experience in running shows for other niche markets. We believe that education should be available to everyone, no matter what their budget, so we have designed an event that allows you to gather knowledge about the latest treatments and developments at the same time as attending hands on workshops and lectures, for free.

Whether you are a cosmetic doctor, aesthetic nurse, dermatologist, plastic surgeon, cosmetic dentist, aesthetician or practice manager, you won’t want to miss the cosmetic News Expo 2011.

Educational programme Educational workshops will once again be taking place throughout the two-day event with industry leading practitioners, manufacturers and suppliers educating you on how to improve your business and get the most out of your clinic by offering the best treatments and products.

This year there will be a main programme in the conference auditorium upstairs, which has the capacity for 450 people, focusing on The Three Tiers of cosmetic dermatology on friday may 6 and Beyond the face: Body Treatments anti-ageing medicine and patient psychology on Saturday may 7. as well as this we will be running business workshops on the main exhibition floor. These proved to be hugely popular at this year’s Expo so we will be packing even more into the programme for 2011. also on the exhibition floor will be live demonstrations and seminars hosted by the key manufacturers and suppliers in the industry who make up our exhibitors.

The event will also be cpd accredited, making it one date on the training calendar you can’t afford to miss. although the event is free, is not open to the public and delegates/visitors will be asked to register in advance giving a small deposit of £50 (refundable on attendance) so they can reserve their place for the educational programmes.

CONTACTS For further information regarding exhibition space please contact:

HOLLIE-JANE DUNWELL T: 01268 754 897 E: hollie.jane@creativemedialtd.co.uk

For event related sponsorship opportunities contact: Emilia Bronze T: 01268 754 897 E: emilia@creativemedialtd.co.uk

14

cosmeticnewsuk.com

------------------•

kEY maIN aUdITorIUm ExHIBITIoN floor

A Full Range of Chemical Peels for Skin Care Specialists

BrEak

FrIDAY mAY 6: tHe tHree tIers OF COsmetIC DermAtOLOGY 9am-10am registration and exhibition opening 10am-11am Skin Texture and Tone aesthetic medicine is not just about filling lines and wrinkles, it is also about Improving the appearance of the skin. We look at the wide range of treatments designed to improve skin texture and tone from skin revitalisation to chemical peeling, fractional lasers and skincare.

10am- 11am Business Workshops 11am-11.30am coffee Break (main auditorium) 11am-1pm Seminars and live demos 11.30am-1.30pm Skin Texture and Tone continued 1.30pm-3.30pm Exhibition viewing and lunch 3pm-4pm Business Workshops 3.30pm-4.30pm line and wrinkles Botulinum toxin is one of the staple treatments of any aesthetics practice and one of the most successful ways of erasing lines and wrinkles. In this session we explore the latest advances, products and techniques with this wonder drug and hear from the key players in the toxins market.

Dermaceutic is an innovative range of topical products for skin rejuvenation procedures formulated in France by a team of doctors and surgeons.

Dermaceutic is distinguished by its high efficiency, simple protocol and refreshing low cost of product.

Dermaceutic products and treatments are demonstrated by a straightforward and informative DVD, specialist training courses and supportive marketing material.

4pm-6pm Seminars and live demos 4.30pm-5pm coffee Break (main auditorium) 5pm-6pm volume and contouring In recent years facial aesthetics treatments have gone beyond chasing the line to placing more value on volume replacement and facial contouring. In this session we explore the dermal fillers and other treatments for this indication.

5pm-7pm Exhibition viewing 7pm drinks party

sAtUrDAY mAY 7:

beYOND tHe FACe – bODY treAtmeNts, ANtI-AGeING meDICINe AND pAIteNt psYCHOLOGY 9am-10am registration and exhibition opening 10am-11am patient consultation and psychology When it comes to aesthetics understanding patient psychology and giving a thorough consultation is an important factor. In this session we will explore issues such as Body dysmorphic disorder and body image issues with leading health psychologist James lampar as well as looking at the consultation process and how to manage patients’ expectations.

10am- 11am Business Workshops 11am-11.30am coffee Break (main auditorium) 11am-1pm Seminars and live demos 11.30am-1pm anti-ageing medicine medical aesthetics is becoming more and more integrated with the specialty of ant-ageing medicine. In this session we look at the internal factors that effect ageing from nutrition to hormones and tell you how understanding these can enhance your treatment results.

1pm-3pm Exhibition viewing and lunch 3pm-4pm Business Workshops 3pm-5pm Body aesthetics Body aesthetics has become big business in recent years. We explore a whole spectrum of body treatments from body needling to high definition vaSEr and even some controversial new uses for lasers.

4pm-6pm Seminars and live demos 5pm Exhibition viewing

Protection, Stimulation & Repair Specialist Solutions for Non-surgical Aesthetic Procedures

For further information about these innovative products call Medical Aesthetic Group on 02380 676733 or visit www.magroup.co.uk

6pm close

MAG_DermaCeutic - half page ad (265x95mm) Cosmetic News Sept 2009

ON ThE SCENE

OUT AND ABOUT IN ThE INDUSTRY ThIS mONTh

RENEW mEDICA CITY CLINIC LAUNCh, loNdoN Guests enjoyed champagne and canapés whilst meeting Renew medica’s team of experts including clinical director Dr Toni Phillips and new

beverley powell and David beesley from skinbrands and John Graham from Q-med

cosmetic doctor Dr kersch at the chain’s new state of the art clinic in the City.

Dr Kersch from renew medica

Dr toni phillips, clinical director of renew medica

The clinic in london’s folgate Street is the first to offer the new UltraShape treatment alongside its extensive list of non-invasive and injectable anti-ageing treatments and cosmeceutical skincare lines such as Skinceuticals. euticals. The company also gave guests a sneak peak at its new website which is due to be launching this month.

Karen smulovic, regional manager for renew medica, Oliver patrick and magda Jedrychowska

the team from the Verity Charity

PRIORI NATIONWIDE TOUR AND COFFEEBERRY® PERFECTING mINERALS PRESS DAY, THE Spa aT cHaNcEry coUrT Its been a busy few months for the team at Cosmeceutcials with the CoffeeBerry® Perfecting minerals launch at, the Spa at Chancery Court and a nationwide tour taking place to celebrate the launch of the new and improved PRIORI® Idebenone Complex. The team took to the road to give a series of skincare educational events to discuss the benefits of new innovative technologies that will help the beauty professional to deliver the best in skincare treatments. delegates at the tour, which started at The royal Society of london and ended at the mary reid International Spa academy in Edinburgh, were introduced to the new Idebenone complex, a powerful antioxidant to help correct skin problems and help to protect skin from future environmental damage.

Tracy may Harriot prIorI® international director of education helped all those attending to fully understand and recognise the benefits of this unique ingredient. She says, “Joe lewis and Joe diNardo have been working for the last four years to develop the performance and efficacy of prIorI® From left to right scottish business manager and national make-up Idebenone. We are so artist, Kevin moore, Cosmeceuticals managing director tracy parkin, excited with the proven tracy may Harriot prIOrI® international director of education and results of this formidable Cosmeceuticals education and brand manager sharon Cass. re-launch. We now

have Idebenone complex, a superhero ingredient that is so smart, it works ‘on demand’ within the skin. again, more innovative skincare technology from our pioneers.”

From left to right scottish business manager and national make-up artist, Kevin moore, Cosmeceuticals managing director tracy parkin, spa at Chancery Court spa manager, maria Haggo and Cosmeceuticals education and brand manager sharon Cass.

The team also celebrated london’s luxurious urban hideaway the Spa at chancery court, taking on prIorI® coffeeBerry® perfecting minerals to compliment the prIorI® coffeeBerry® professional skincare range. The spa hosted a press day to introduce perfecting minerals to influential health and beauty editors from the national and consumer press.

Journalists were treated to a coffeeBerry® Enzyme peel followed by a perfecting mineral make over with prIorI® Scottish business manager and national make-up artist, kevin moore. coffeeBerry® perfecting minerals is the first and only mineral skin care range to contain coffeeBerry® with its anti-ageing, skin brightening and antioxidant properties.

kevin said, “I have worked with mineral make up before and coffeeberry® minerals are so different it’s amazing! They apply so creamily to the skin delivering a naturally gorgeous and perfect look, skin looks so hydrated and they really minimise those dreaded open pores. a real added bonus are also the brushes, especially the kabuki brush, they are simply to die for!”

DR ROBERT STELzER vISITS EF mEDISPA, cHElSEa Germany’s premiere anti-ageing specialist Dr Robert Stelzer came over to the Uk to host an evening of educational lectures at the newly opened EF mediSpa on the king’s Road in Chelsea. dr Stelzer, who is from the medical and aesthetic preventiva clinic in Berlin, is the creator of ‘preventiva’ products, which use the healing and immune boosting effects of colostrum and are available in the Uk exclusively at Ef mediSpa. dr Stelzer is a leading expert in preventative

16

cosmeticnewsuk.com

and anti-ageing medicine and gave a insightful presentation on the latest techniques in rejuvenation and preventative medicine. He also spoke about prp Therapy and explained how UvB Therapy, the process in which blood is taken and placed under a specialised Uv light to activate the blood proteins, immune enzymes and red blood cells, works. guests were treated to a demonstration of the UvB therapy, so they were able to witness first hand how easy and painless the photobiological Stimulation Treatment is.

eF medispa founder esther Fieldgrass

Dr stelzer created the preventiva range

Dr robert stelzer

Think green to preserve nature's beauty.

Think orange to enhance yours.

Demand for skin, hair and body treatments in the aesthetic laser market is experiencing record growth. By 2012, the number of annual procedures being performed is expected to more than double.* That’s not just mere potential —it’s unprecedented opportunity. With Cynosure, you can make the most of it. Our multi-application laser workstations and comprehensive business support systems are designed to transform practices, as well as patients.

Visit www.cynosureuk.com today to start transforming yours.

www.cynosureuk.com | info@cynosureuk.com | +44 (0)1628 522252 Cynosure UK, The Old Barn Offices, Lower Mount Farm, Long Lane, Cookham, Berkshire, SL6 9EE *Source: InMedica Research 2008

Big Debate | Laser Deregulation

OUT Of CONTROL We ask some key industry opinion leaders to give their views on the pending changes to laser and IPL regulation, taking place next month

DR PhILIP DOBSON, mEdIcal dIrEcTor, lcS HEalTHcarE

PAUL STAPLETON, maNagINg dIrEcTor, mappErlEy park

“The deregulation of the beauty

“The most immediate structure

laser treatment sector was

apparent in the deregulated

pushed through by the last

landscape post-October 1 will

government with the ill disguised

be the as-yet unquantified vAT

aims of cutting costs and making

application to ‘non-surgical’

the life of the CQC ‘easier’

treatments, which will arise just

without any real consideration

as government cuts decelerate

of the impact on the public

demand across the economy

or potential risks associated

– outside the m25 bubble that

with permitting unrestricted use of such devices in potentially

is. I see no reason why hmRC will not assume as default that a

inappropriate premises.

laser or light treatment is ‘non-surgical’ and therefore vATable, with strict rules on evidence requirements for vAT exclusion as a

“The new regulations have been framed so as to regulate the medical

‘surgical’ treatment. This might have disastrous consequences

sector to the highest professional standards for carrying out the very

for those who get their interpretation wrong but it carries

treatments, which, if they are carried out by a beauty therapist could

inflationary implications for everyone in the sector at just the

be done perfectly legally in a their kitchen table without any statutory

wrong time. Businesses have been cutting costs – and jobs – for

regulation whatsoever. There is neither rhyme nor reason to the position

nearly three years now and will have to absorb these further

taken by the department of Health who have demonstrated that their

cost-pressures just as an economically anxious customer-base

omnipotent and condescending attitude of ‘we know best’, without paying

begins to absorb the autumn implications of job and cost-cuts in

any attention to the people who actually know, has, yet again, lead to a

their own sectors.

ludicrous and indefensible position. Worst of all, because of the fact that the ministers and civil servants change posts more quickly than the rest of us

“competitive effects will largely arise from the bottom end as new,

change underwear, there is no responsibility or accountability for anything

low-cost competition attempts to replicate high-end models using

that has been done.

ultra-cheap chinese technology and a very low skill-base for a newly impoverished market; differentiation in this new marketplace must

“The care Quality commission is left to pick up the pieces and try to

accelerate to separate the sheep from the goats in the public-

enforce a set of regulations which make little sense and have so many

eye or the entire industry risks being dragged down to a common,

loop holes that once more there are vast inconsistencies, which will put us

cost-based denominator with an eroded capacity for adding value

in the position that for every provider is harassed and forced to register by

through quality. Home use systems will cut in to all commercial

an enthusiastic cQc Inspector in order to provide a given service, there is

models but will also raise the technological profile of the whole,

another provider who is told by the cQc that they are not even registerable

encouraging more consumers to seek higher-end solutions, but

for an identical service. This is not a fanciful prediction but a accurate

also to consider purportedly high-spec devices themselves from the

description of the last three weeks of my life in the regulatory compliance

‘Beijing Super-Eyebrow-purifying laser corporation’.

field.”

18

cosmeticnewsuk.com

“The combination of these drivers will put further pressure on the existing sector

and won’t ever be recaptured. I would like to believe that self-regulation can

both in terms of cost-base and quality delivery with budgets being slashed

be effective and support out of hope but rather agree with economist Willem

in all areas. Weaker businesses – and those unfortunately tied to pre-crunch

Buiter that “self-regulation is to regulation as self-importance is to importance”

finance agreements – will continue to go to the wall but where business

so, we should get used to a higher-taxed, lower-profit landscape with lots of

failures have to-date appeared primarily at the small-business end, there is

odd-shaped competitors emerging from the back-woods to pick at the lower-

plenty of room for shakeout and merger among over-geared equity chains.

end of our businesses – and bringing lots more bad publicity.

“In the longer term, can lasers and light remain deregulated? It depends on

“on a more positive note, you might want to look a little harder in the hardening

whether the risk is as the scientists tell us (real and significant) or as the politicians

landscape for the abundant opportunities that may be hidden at the moment,

choose to view it (how hard can it be and anyway, what could possibly go

for there is an irrepressible underlying demand for cosmetic services and it is

wrong?). my best guess is that Einstein’s genie is out of the medical bottle now

surely only a matter of adapting to new conditions in order to thrive.”

DAvID LEAhY, maNagINg dIrEcTor, aBmETEcH

PENNY TURvEY, dIrEcTor of gmT coNSUlTaNcy aNd paST cHaIrmaN of HaBIa “The deregulation of laser and light therapy

As far as

based treatments is going to prove contentious,

‘deregulation’ of laser

and will cause something of a split within beauty

and light therapy

and spa Industries. Whilst some will relish the

is concerned, it is

removal of what was often obstructive red-tape

important for me as

and fees, others are concerned that there will be

a distributor of laser

an insurgence of cowboy operators, a decline in

systems to view this

standards and an increase in litigation from clients.

milestone in two distinct ways. Firstly from a business perspective it is

“It is feared, by some, that deregulation will allow salons to offer laser and light

very encouraging, increased competition created

therapy based treatments without complying with the onerous paperwork

by the importing of new types of laser and light

associated with previous licensing requirements. Even salons that oppose the

systems from other continents will ensure that the

deregulation admit that the licensing process could, at times, be an expensive

‘cream’ of the technology will stand out more than

nightmare in terms of the money spent and the time used up trying to become

ever before in the previously mudded waters of the

compliant. many salons also claim that they already operate to the highest

industry. This can only be a very positive event for

standards possible and don’t need to pay for another piece of paper to prove this

both me and my colleagues involved in distribution

particularly as they pose no risk to their clients

of state of the art technology. “a number of salons currently offering these treatments believe that deregulation “However this movement to deregulate must be

will be a bad thing for the industry and that whilst the previous arrangement wasn’t

viewed critically from the perspective of the possibility

perfect it did at least guarantee standards and protect clients. perhaps the biggest

of un-suitable practitioners, premises and equipment

concern is that deregulation will allow people outside the industry to set up their own

being used on the paying public. over the last 10

laser and light therapy based practices in order to make a fast buck without having

years I have seen some very unpleasant clinical

attained the knowledge and experience of the current operators. deregulation will

outcomes for the patient in laser and light therapy,

also place a greater burden on local authority Environmental Health practitioners

in some cases this has led to litigation against the

who will now have to take responsibility for ensuring that laser and light therapy

practitioner in question. I will also state that these

treatments are carried out properly and safely. local authorities are already facing

negative results were not always due to practitioner

huge spending cuts and the number of inspections of beauty and hairdressing

incompetence, poor equipment or bad practice.

premises has already been declining over the last few years. With no national

although this is a concern as it may increase in the

regulatory body such as the cQc in charge, there is the scope for variations in

coming months, I can also state that >75% of the

standards and enforcement across the country and, understandably, there are

litigation I am aware of is involving fully accredited

concerns that this will open the door to incompetent persons purchasing equipment

clinics approved by the cQc and the practitioners in

and setting up in business. one must keep in mind that these new businesses will

question having a string of relevant qualifications the

still be required to register with the local authority for health and safety inspection

their names.

purposes and the inspector will be required to ensure that they are operating in a

“In essence I truly believe that deregulation will

safe manner.

have little to no effect on the industry long term. The loudest objectors in my view are those that will lose

“fortunately laser and light therapy based treatments are currently included within

considerable business in the fact their services are no

the National occupational Standards that Habia writes, and can be used for internal

longer required to navigate the over complex and in

benchmarking, staff training and creating procedures and protocols. Habia is also

many ways completely un-necessary beaurocratic

working with the Independent Healthcare advisory Service to try and create a

nonsense that should never have been allowed to

voluntary registration scheme for salons and practitioners but until this happens the

become so pedantic in the first pace.”

situation will inevitably remain confusing”

cosmeticnewsuk.com

19

Big Debate | Laser Deregulation GUY GOUDSmIT, maNagINg dIrEcTor, aBc laSErS

now actively searching to be treated with the right technology, safely and effectively and will disregard the low-end providers.

“True, there are those patients who will make their choice of laser

“When talking to many owners of established

provider only on low-price, but these are not the patients you are

clinics and chains, there is a great deal

after or want to be after in the first place. I do envisage that the

of debate and uncertainty in regards to

sector that is going to suffer the most on the long-term, is actually

answering the question ‘where the market

the lower-end beauty! very similarly to the situation now in Ireland

is going to go post de-regulation of lasers?’

where you can see beauty salons who will offer cheap treatments

I personally think that these changes to the

using cheap Ipl or laser technologies which in turn produce

market place will bring plenty of positives

compromised results, these will enter into a saturated ‘low-end’

and benefits to the medical aesthetic clinics

market which will only have the alternative of going more up-

as apposed to the beauty market.

market in order to succeed.

“many clinic owners share the view that

“at aBc lasers we have seen a sharp increase in sales of our higher-

deregulation will open the door to very low-end

end laser such as the Soprano BlUE™ and Harmony xl™ lasers, going

providers who will now setup with low-cost (and essentially low-

into more medical sites and medi-spas, which indicates the start of a

quality) Ipl or lasers in direct competition. Well lets face it, low-end

new era for the higher-end medical providers using higher end lasers.

and low cost providers already exist, yet we can see very clearly

my prediction is long-term it’s good for the industry, and the higher-end

now patients are becoming more and more educated and are

your and the more established your clinic is, the more you will benefit.”

mIkE mURPhY, laSEr/Ipl coNSUlTaNT

DR ANDREW BERRY, TEcHNIcal aNd Hr dIrEcTor, lyNToN laSErS lTd

“As I understand it the legislation regarding IPL/laser systems is about to change such that

“Lynton has always regarded

owners who only offer hair

Government-backed regulation

removal will no longer be

of the sector as ‘a good thing’

required to register with the

in principle, but has regretted

CQC. Given that owners currently

the costs and unnecessary

need to part with around £3,000

complexity of the outgoing

for an initial registration this

scheme which appeared to just heap an additional burden on

will come as a great boon to those wishing to offer this service to their clients. however, it is

the conscientious operators, whilst doing virtually nothing to

plainly ridiculous! most IPLs are capable of treating a range

penalise the more unscrupulous. Deregulation on October 1,

of conditions including unwanted blood vessels and skin

therefore, represents an opportunity lost to modify an existing

rejuvenation. Do the CQC really think that users who have paid

and necessary, but over-blown, framework into a simpler

up to £30,000 for their IPL/laser systems will not treat everything

and more effective one. In particular, we disapprove of the

they possibly can, especially in today’s economic climate? If

complete removal of any regulatory requirements from those

so, they are not living in the real world.

practitioners who are not ‘healthcare professionals’, or who are not treating ‘disease, disorder or injury’.

“However, it merely serves to highlight the nonsensical approach

20

behind this legislation. as a former laser safety officer I was against

on the other hand, we can partly sympathise with the government’s

it from the beginning. It did virtually nothing to safeguard the public

apparent wish to prioritise and only regulate essential ‘healthcare’,

or the laser/Ipl users. It simply targeted the wrong people.

and can even see some sense in the argument that ‘non-medial’

“What should have happened was a proper regulation of the

treatments should attract vaT. But it can’t be right to just leave

laser/Ipl industry – I called for this from the start! many companies

the public at risk. Some form of regulatory scheme is still needed,

are in the habit of selling equipment, which does not meet their

ideally at local authority level where inclusiveness can be more

stated specifications. I have measured the energy output of quite

reliably guaranteed. a voluntary scheme would just not work. all our

a number of Ipl systems and lasers, usually at the request of their

customers can see the sense in ensuring safe operation of laser/Ipls

owners who are having difficulty in achieving good, sustainable

and appropriate and ongoing training, etc., and most recognise the

clinical results. on every occasion, bar just one, the measurements

need for some external structure to be in place to make sure that it

I took were below the stated specifications, in one case more

all actually happens. most can also see that compliance with some

than 50% below! No wonder they couldn’t achieve the results the

recognised regulatory scheme is good for their own business, in that

manufacturer’s claimed. In another instance my colleagues and I

they can use it to reassure their own clients that they are providing

discovered a significant amount of harmful ultra-violet emanating

a good service. No reputable clinic, salon or, indeed, equipment

from a popular, but cheap, Ipl unit. The manufacturers should

manufacturerwants to put the public at risk.

be held accountable for this lax approach to standards – not

So a light-touch, low-cost replacement regulatory scheme is definitely

the buyers! The current legislation does not protect anyone from

required. organisations like IHaS and Bmla are currently working on

unscrupulous manufacturers who save on costs while maximising

this, with the IHaS proposal soon to be trialed in london by the local

profits by cutting corners. There should be regulations in place,

authorities. We wish it well and look forward to a scheme being rolled

across the industry, which force manufacturers to supply equipment

out across the whole country. We ourselves will continue to offer

according to their published specs, to provide proper applications

high quality training for the industry through our university approved

and safety training and to maintain them properly. Until this is the

courses and a subsidised lpa service for all lynton customers to

case users will continue to buy useless, and potentially harmful,

ensure that lynton clinics deliver treatments in a safe and effective

equipment and their customers will not be happy with their results.”

manner.

cosmeticnewsuk.com

mARYTN ROE, dIrEcTor, THE coNSUlTINg roomTm

BEN SAvIGAR-JONES, SalES aNd markETINg ExEcUTIvE, caNdEla

“The proposed

industry has been left trying to find something to

“Following the deregulation of class 4 lasers the assist with our attempts to raise the standards of

changes to take

non-surgical aesthetics. As we all know, patients

place in October

are becoming more knowledgeable and national

are crazy. We are

coverage such as ‘The Ugly Face of Beauty’ and the

the only country in

Observer article ‘Cosmetic ‘Cowboys’ Face Wave

Europe softening

of Lawsuits’ [Sunday July 18 2010], are constantly

regulation around

warning patients to be very careful with their

lasers and light

choice of clinic. Now we have to address the safety

based treatments – in Germany they are even bringing in strict controls around ultrasound, here nothing. We now have a situation where any unqualified, uncertified and un-regulated, person can buy a ND:Yag or fractional ablative laser and treat patients. In most of Europe only a doctor can use lasers.

The cQc, the last and the current government ignored

of laser users who are no longer required to carry the standard mark of the Care Quality Commission.

Until there is an ethical re-evaluation of the regulatory process we must look for other ways to raise the standards and lower the risk to the patients. for me a key method is through training of practitioners. from a manufacturers point of view we have to take on extra responsibility to ensure that thorough training is provided on our products only by individuals accredited by the manufacturer/supplier.

expert advice on this, leaving us with this mess and selfregulation for injectables. It will probably take someone

as part of the process when you are looking into the purchase of a laser or Ipl all

famous getting burned before this situation gets resolved.

representatives should describe in detail the training that you will receive. you should

personally, I would like to see some form of regulation

expect to understand the physics of lasers in general before you undergo any

that covers lasers, light and injectable treatments and

training specific to your product. This is usually done through the ‘core of knowledge’

due to the reports of problems associated with ultrasound

courses available, after this you should get thorough training on your laser including

devices in Italy, they should probably be included too. It still

more theory and practical elements. What next? The next step is the opportunity for

amazes me that in this country you have to be a qualified

advanced sessions and continued professional development through your supplier.

vet to carry out a procedure on a dog and yet to carry

only through responsible business relationships can we hold the standard of our

procedures out on people you only need a pulse!“

industry and hopefully through experience raise the profile and standard.”

8103 Training Ad:Layout 1 18/08/2010 14:52 Page 1

INTERESTED IN LASER / INTENSE LIGHT SOURCES? Mapperley Park have been trading since 1993 and providing Training and Care Quality Commission Consultancy services since 2002.

MAPPERLEY PARK TRAINING CORE OF KNOWLEDGE: London: Wednesday 15th September Nottingham: Thursday 07th October, Wednesday 10th November The essential course for all laser/pulsed light practitioners, including those new to Aesthetic Medicine. This course covers the MHRA curriculum and provides the minimum training required to register with CQC.

BTEC Professional Award

LASER AND LIGHT BASED HAIR REMOVAL AND PHOTOREJUVENATION:

Due to concern over upcoming deregulation/VAT issues, The Mapperley Park Core of Knowledge Training day will be tailored to provide as much information as possible about the shape of 2010 regulatory changes. Partial deregulation on October 1st is, in our opinion the first of many changes to come and will lead to a broadly deregulated, fully VATable cosmetic sector within a short time-frame - the wholesale abolition of the CQC in the Autumn review would allow deregulation and VAT levy on all surgical cosmetic practice – quite a prize for treasury coffers and I would not bet against this outcome.

Monday 11th – Thursday 14th October 2010 A nationally recognised qualification awarded by Edexcel. This course covers thetheoretical and practical elements of laser/pulsed light hair removal and photo-rejuvenation across a wide range of currently available equipment.

The consequent ‘de-medicalisation’ of the sector poses questions, creates threats and of course opportunities in a new and dynamic landscape that looks very difficult to predict, so it would be a very wise, or a very foolish person who did not keep their ear to the ground over the coming weeks and months.

BTEC Professional Award

We will of course cover the MHRA 2008 syllabus, hence plenty of interesting layman’s physics and basic photobiology. It would also be more sensible to review current Health and Safety regulation than spend time on ‘local’ Health and Safety detail..

LASER, LIGHT AND ASSOCIATED AESTHETIC THERAPIES Monday 22nd – Friday 26th November 2010 This is the original, nationally recognised BTEC qualification approved by Edexcel for delivery to healthcare professionals. Re-written in 2008 and continually updated, the course provides in depth theoretical and practical elements of pigmented (including hair), vascular, tattoo and water-targeting treatments using laser/IPL technologies.

Practical exercises and demonstrations included.

So, please join us for a topical, informative and interesting day on all things laser and light.

LASER PROTECTION SUPERVISOR workshop: Available on request A workshop specifically designed for individuals acting as an LPS and for those responsible for the facility safety.

Registered CO 30000273

LASER/IPL Masterclasses - Nottingham

Tattoo Removal – Available on request • Nlite (pulsed dye laser) – Available on request • Depilation – Available on request • Vascular – Available on request Presented by Jo Martin – Clinical Director, these small-group learning days are designed to provide practical training in a clinical setting. Each day will involve a dynamic mix of theory and hands-on training using a range of the most popular laser and IPL devices currently on the market.

Call 0115 969 0111 or Email: training@mapperleypark.co.uk www.mapperleypark.co.uk/training

People in Profile | Denis Donohoe

CORPORATE

Account

We speak to the Uk managing director of the active cosmetics division of l’oreal, denis donohoe, about the company’s plans for the Skinceuticals brand and why being part of the l’oreal portfolio is a positive thing for the professional cosmeceutcial range

w

hen Skinceuticals became part of

five years down the road Skinceuticals is still being sold through

the l’oreal brand it marked the

medical aesthetics professionals but the brand has been

beginning of an exciting new era

enriched by the know-how of the l’oreal group both in terms of

for SkinBrands, the Uk distributors of

its research and its regulatory and safety standards. We have a

the range. But while the company’s

lot of internal safety standards and formulation standards that

directors david and Tracey Beesley

we follow stringently and that legislation imposes on us, so the

realised the positives of this acquisition they have had to

products are very well screened and are safe. as a big billion-dollar

battle a lot of misconceptions and rumors circulating in the

company we can bring a lot to Skinceuticals while respecting

industry about what Skinceuticals being under the l’oreal

what makes Skinceuticals such a great brand in the first place.

umbrella will mean for the professional-only skincare range.

To squash some of these misconceptions we caught up with the managing director of the Uk and Ireland division

CN:

how does SkinCeuticals fit in to the L’Oreal portfolio?

of l’oreal cosmetique active (the branch of the company

DD: l’oreal has four operating divisions. The founding business

that looks after Skinceuticals and other dermatology/

of l’oreal was the professional products division which, through

medical based brands) to find out what his plans for

brands like l’oreal professionel and kerastase, provides products

Skinceuticals are and to put the rumors to rest.

and services in hair salons. our luxury products division includes

Cosmetic News: how did L’Oreal

and our consumer products division manages l’oreal paris, garnier

come to acquire the SkinCeuticals brand?

Denis Donohoe: although many people think

brands like lancome, Helena rubenstein, armani and ralph lauren and maybelline. The fourth division is the active cosmetics division, which is where I come in. This is the division within the l’oreal group that focuses more on healthcare professionals and distribution. Up

this is a recent thing, it actually goes back more than five

until recently 95% of distribution around the world would have been

years. Skinceuticals was a very strong medical professional

pharmaceutical. We

brand in the United States and was also sold in a number of

have two flagship

other markets around the world. It was acquired by l’oreal

brands within l’oreal

in 2005 in the United States from a purely US business rational.

cosmetique active

at the time the aesthetic market was booming in the US that

– vichy and la

the management of l’oreal USa felt it was important for

roche-posay. Both

l’oreal to be represented in that market. So we acquired

of those brands are

the Skinceuticals brand in the US and the Skinceuticals team

sold in pharmacies.

joined l’oreal but continued to work on the brand.

la roche-posay is a

CN: What do you think the benefits of SkinCeuticals

becoming part of a company like L’Oreal are?

DD: I think its been beneficial for the brand because its

dermatological brand that is recommended by about 25,000 dermatologists around the world, so,

given the brand the best of both worlds. on one side we have

through that brand, it

the network of key opinion leaders and dermatologists and

was felt that we were

medical professionals that Skinceuticals had built up along the

the division that had

way, such as dr Sheldon pinnell and his associates and all the

the most knowledge

people that had worked with the brand from the beginning,

of dermatology

and added to that was the weight of l’oreal research which

and the medical

is absolutely colossal in terms of its research budget. It hasn’t

world and that the

changed anything in the way they do their business in the US.

active cosmetics

cosmeticnewsuk.com

23

People in Profile | Denis Donohoe Skinceuticals is seen by the l’oreal group as its ‘formula 1 brand’. In the same way that you have renault clios or renault lagunas you also have a renault f1 car which has the ultimate technology and that’s really the role Skinceuticals plays within l’oreal

5 mINUTE INTERVIEw NTERVIEw w

We chat to Dr Sandeep Cliff Cosmetic News: What do you think are the five main signs of ageing and why?

Dr Sandeep Cliff: •

ine lines, around the mouth and eyes fine

•

oss of skin firmness loss

•

Broken blood vessels on the skin

it with the luxury products division but it was felt that it fitted better within

•

Uneven skin surface

our division as we were more in touch with the medical community

•

pigmentation

division was the logical place to put Skinceuticals. We could have put

primarily through pharmacists but also through dermatologists. really Skinceuticals is seen by the l’oreal group as its ‘formula 1 brand’.

Ssun damage and environmental factors, plus emotional stress,

In the same way that you have renault clios or renault lagunas you also

coupled with depleted hyaluronic acid levels in our skin are the main

have a renault f1 car which has the ultimate technology and that’s really the role Skinceuticals plays within the l’oreal group . Innovations that come from l’oreal research and development are given to Skinceuticals

causes of ageing. Hyaluronic acid in our skin is an essential part of the skin’s hydration system. It binds water and provides skin support and keeps our skin hydrated and smooth. ass we age our hyaluronic acid becomes less efficient. our ur skin becomes drier, skin support is reduced

as the pioneer technological brand of the group but we also have

and fine lines start to appear, our skin surface becomes rougher.

people like dr Zoe draelos (a leading US dermatologist) and dr Sheldon

Uneven skin is less able to reflect light so our skin starts to take on a

pinnell researching what the next antioxidants should be. phloretin was

dull appearance. over exposure to the sun also speeds the ageing

an antioxidant discovered by Sheldon pinnell and phloretin cf® was

process as it also impacts on the effectiveness of our hyaluronic acid.

launched after Skinceuticals became part of the l’oreal group.

CN: What would you say to people who have raised concerns about the credibility in the medical sector of SkinCeuticals now that it is associated with the name L’Oreal or it going into department stores?

DD: In the public’s mind, the name l’oreal is of course closely associated with the l’oreal paris brand and with celebrities like cheryl cole but this is a very different world to the one we are operating in. researchers and others who attend the major international dermatology conferences know exactly who l’oreal is. They don’t

The combination of Uva and UvB rays from the sun breaks down skin’s collagen and elastin. This diminishes the levels of hyaluronic acid (Ha) in the skin and impairs the water binding properties of skin cells causing a weakening in their structure. as a result the skin loses its ability to hydrate and it loses structural support.

CN: What is it that naturally makes the skin glow and how can patients help it regain youthful luminosity as they age?

SC: maintaining skin hydration is key to smooth, healthy looking skin. ream technology has advanced in recent years and ideally you cream should look for a skincare range that helps protect and nourish the skin barrier to lock in hydration and resist environmental damage, without disturbing the natural balance of the skin. protecting you skin daily from

think “because I’m worth it”, they understand the power of l’oreal

sundamage is also something you should do all year around. again for

scientific research. regarding the concern that we will sell Skinceuticals

S 15 protection cream several Spf to be effective, you should apply a Spf

in department stores, this is just not going to happen. We have a luxury

times a day. This is not always feasible but doing something is better

products division which does a great job already selling products in

than doing nothing. many Spf creams are more user friendly now; they

department stores and if we had wanted to put Skinceuticals into department stores we would have put it in that division but we didn’t.

CN: how do SkinBrands fit in to the equation?

DD: The brand outside the US was available in a number of markets including the Uk, where david and Tracey (SkinBrands) had had the brand for three years before the acquisition. over the course of those three years they had built a very strong Skinceuticals business in the Uk – in fact they had a stronger Skinceuticals business than we had an active cosmetics business. from the start of this year we have

ood diet is also essential – a low are absorbable and light, non greasy. good fat diet is not good for the skin, you need essential fatty acids to help nourish the skin, so eat oily fish, dark leaf vegetables plus antioxidants, e.g. blueberries, raspberries.

CN: how ow do you think the skin’s texture changes as we age? What do we need to do and which ingredients will help keep it smooth and supple?

SC: Skin hydration becomes more of a challenge as we age. Healthy well-supported skin has resilience and elasticity, which allows movement as well as the ability to spring back to place. Because your hyaluronic acid becomes less effective as you age your skin loses its ability to

started to work with them to support them. Basically my team and I are

hydrate and it loses structural support so the skin surface becomes

totally responsible for the marketing and pr for Skinceuticals in the Uk

rougher in texture and more uneven. Hyaluronic acid is fundamental

but SkinBrands will continue to be the distributors. What would have

to healthy, hydrated skin and is a buzz-word in skin health today. So a

happened before is that SkinBrands would have imported products

combination of good skincare, which strengthens and protects the skin’s

from head office overseas and also been responsible for the marketing, what will happen now is that, instead of doing that, we will provide all the marketing support, which means more investment in our customers in terms of merchandising and making the brand that bit more visible and inspirational. It’s about taking the brand to a whole new level.

natural barrier in combination with proven skin revitalisation treatments, such as restylane vital, which replenishes hyaluronic acid directly in the skin where it is needed, is a very effective way to keep your skin looking smooth. Because restylane vital releases hyaluronic acid gradually over a period of time, it creates a deep hydration reservoir. as a result, the skin’s overall condition and health is improved and the premature ageing effects can be treated effectively. and smoother skin reflects light, so glow and lustre are restored too.

24

cosmeticnewsuk.com

The global leader in aesthetic laser solutions

y str u Ind

ng i ad le

or p p su

M

4

in ak

g

the

d

ren fi fe

c

5 13, r o ef

esses w n i s u 00 b

-

t in

co 86

ears y 0

untries worldwide

pment r develo e s a l of

orldwide

arti d e w ie 300+ peer rev

s cle

Add the capability to treat the effects of sun damage this autumn Choose from a range of effective tools to fit your practice Fractional CO2/Q-switched alexandrite/long pulsed alexandrite Designed with speed and innovation for uncompromised results See how Candela can make the difference to your clinic

Tel: 0845 521 0698 e-mail: info@candelalaser.co.uk www.candelalaser.co.uk

See the difference

...new generation of Nlite laser skin rejuvenation

vasCular treatments

• dermal remodeling & skin tightening • reduction of lines & wrinkles • improves irregular pigmentation • Collagen stimulation for acne scars • Collagen stimulation for traumatic or surgical scarring

• Port wine stains • rosacea • telangiectasia • Warts & verruca • Psoriasis

treatment of all grades of aCne vulgaris regenlitetm uses low energy light to specifically target the micro vasculature of the dermis and stimulate the bodies natural wound healing response without any residual cell necrosis, unlike other lasers.

Absorption of the yellow light into these tiny blood vessels results in a mild thermal effect and an inflammation in the endothelial cells of the vessel walls, inflammation which incites the release of cytokines and growth factors and leads to the stimulation of new collagen. This occurs without any degradation or tissue necrosis.

Research at Imperial College, London, published in the Lancet and British Journal of Dermatology shows that a single session with the RegenliteTM : • reduces average lesion count by 50% within 2 weeks of treatment

• •

gives lasting improvement up to and past 12 weeks after the single laser session produces a 500 % increase in TGFBeta in the dermis

It is also the release of these cytokines and growth factors, in particular TGFBeta, that produces the unique treatment results with RegenliteTM on inflammatory acne vulgaris. TGFBeta is known to be a potent stimulus for neocollagenesis and a pivotal immunosuppressive cytokine associated to acquired immunity within the tissue. The reduction of active inflammation and production of new collagen improves the skin environment against future problems and alleviates scarring. This effect also prevents microcomedone formation, which occurs as a result of keratinocyte hyperproliferation at the pilosebaceous unit which lessens further outbreaks and provides durable results from single treatment sessions. Typical patients can be maintained acne free with just 2 – 3 laser sessions and occasional maintenance.

<< Lines & Wrinkles Active Acne >> << Skin Tightening Vascular Lesions >> << Acne Scarring Warts & Veruruca >>

C e l e b r at i n g 2 5 y e a r s i n t h e l a s e r i n d u s t ry

To find out more about the incredible RegenliteTM please contact Chromogenex ltd on 01554 755444 or email Shareen on sgeers@chromogenex.com

Special Feature | Acne

Spot on

We examine the causes of and best treatments for acne

Acne is one of the most common skin conditions, affecting people of all ages, sexes and races, however, despite this, it is one of the most stigmatised and can be incredibly difficult and complicated to treat because of the psychological and physical effects of the disease.

A

cne is also a very cosmetic disease, with its effects

And it is not just a disease the affects teenagers, more and more

showing clearly and visibly on the face and body

adults, particularly women, are suffering for the disease and stress

of sufferers, causing them embarrassment and

is considered to be a contributing factor to this.

making them feel self-conscious. As such cosmetic

practitioners are now treating more and more patients for acne

“There is this persistent myth that you will grow out of acne, that it

and acne scarring, which can be equally as debilitating.

miraculously disappears as you get older but it has been shown that that is not the case – people are hanging onto their acne for

A chronic inflammatory disease of the sebaceous glands

longer and longer”, says Dr Chu. “We are seeing more and more

and hair follicles of the skin, acne is most commonly found

adults with acne. If you look at my practice now probably 50% of

on the face but can occur on the shoulders, back, chest,

my patients are in the 30s, 40s and 50s.

neck, arms, buttocks and legs, depending on the activity of the sebaceous glands.

“There was some data published in 2008 from America where they looked at a population of people and divided them up

A staggering 80% of people are thought to suffer from some

into 10-year age groups from 20 onwards and looked at the

sort of acne ranging from mild to severe. Dr Tony Chu Professor

incidence of acne in those age groups. Now between the age

of Dermatology and Consultant Dermatologist and Medical

of 20-30 you are looking at around 49% between 30 and 40 in

Director of the West London Dermatology Centre is a renowned

women it was about 30% and between 40 and 50 it was still 25%

expert in the field of acne he explains, “Acne is incredibly

over 50 it was 15%.

common – it almost seems to be physiological. If you see a patient in your clinic and you ask them if they suffer from acne

“I am convinced that it is related to stress in modern life.

they say no because acne is a dirty word and people do not

When you are under stress your adrenal glands will produce

like admitting that they have got acne but if you have got one

more adrenalin and that’s why during stressful events such as

blackhead or a spot then you have got acne. There is a spectrum

exams, a break down of marriage, loss of a loved one you often

from very mild i.e. one or two blackheads through to severe or

get a nasty flare of your acne. We all work under stress these days

cystic where you are covered in great nodules. When we talk

and I think that’s why we are seeing acne persisting. There is a

about acne and its incidence if you look at the entire spectrum

specific group of patients with maturity onset acne. These patients

virtually everybody has acne or will have acne at some stage in

have minimal problems in adolescence and puberty and then

their life. If you separate it down to acne that requires treatment

suddenly in their mid 20s/early 30s they develop terrible acne.

then you are still looking at 85-90% of people who will have acne

It is a common event now and is usually seen in high-powered

at some stage of their life.”

business women.”

cosmeticnewsuk.com

27

Special Feature | Acne

dr lowe adds, “50% of women and 25% of men suffer from adult acne. Stress can be one of the leading factors in the development of oily skin or adult acne. other factors include changes in the hormonal balance to include: pregnancy, menstruation, hormonal abnormalities and stopping contraceptive medication. Some dairy products can worsen acne from hormones that are fed to cows. certain medicines such as the contraceptive pill, anti-inflammatory steroids, some anti-epileptic medications, lithium and related medications can lead to adult acne being triggered.”

CAUSES of acNE When the skin is functioning normally, oil made by the sebaceous glands travels up the hair follicle and out to the skin’s surface however patients who suffer from acne vulgaris have an excessive

partially blocked, allowing some of the trapped sebum (oil),

amount of oil production which in turn causes blockages in the

bacteria, and dead skin cells to slowly drain to the surface. The

openings of the oil producing glands resulting in blackheads.

black color is not caused by dirt. Rather, it is the skin’s own pigment,

Bacterium known as propionibacterium acnes or p. acnes then

melanin, reacting with the oxygen in the air. A blackhead tends to be

causes inflammation in the blocked glands causing the red, pussy

a stable structure, and can often take a long time to clear

spots that characterise acne. dr chu explains, “The blockage will eventually restricts the oil flow so

• PaPules – papules are inflamed, red, tender bumps with no

the oil pools under the skin and that’s what encourages bacterial

head

growth and inflammation. Inflammation is secondary but those are the spots people don’t like and are desperate to get rid of

• Pustules – a pustule is inflamed, and appears as a red circle

and usually spend hours in front of the mirror squeezing. you don’t

with a white or yellow center

go out with a zit on your nose, I understand that, but people are so but if you see blood you have damaged the skin and you will be left

Severe acne vulgaris is characterized by: • Nodules – Nodules are large, hard bumps under the skin’s

with a scar.”

surface. Scarring is common. Unresolved nodules can sometimes

aggressive with their squeezing that they squeeze until they see blood

leave an impaction behind, which can flare again and again It is also a common misconception that acne is cause by poor hygenine or diet. Experts now believe it is more likely to be caused by

• cysts – an acne cyst can appear similar to a nodule, but is

hormonal factors and stress.

pus-filled, and is described as having a diameter of 5mm or more

dr lowe says, “Some people believe that eating sweets such as

across. They can be painful. again, scarring is common with cystic

chocolate and greasy foods are a cause of breakouts. This may

acne *(Source: acne.org)

be true in a few people who drink a lot of milk or eat a lot of milk chocolate as this can make ance worse by passing on hormones

THE PSYChOLOGICAL ImpacT of acNE

fed or produced by cows. also, being overweight causes increased

Because it is considered to be a cosmetic disease and not ‘life

insulin production that signals the body to release extra androgens

threatening’ the effects of acne are often trivialised however its

(male hormones), which are involved in pimple formation.

psychological impact is well documented and its association with

chocolate lovers needn’t fear – dark chocolate is rich in antioxidants,

depression and suicide cannot be ignored.

which are good for the skin. The easiest solution to keep you and your skin looking its’ best through diet is to eat a healthy and

When treating patients with acne it is therefore imperative that you

balanced range of foods and healthy drinks.”

take into account the psychological aspects of the disease as well as the physical. dr chu says, “acne not only scars the skin it scars

TYPES of acNE

the psyche and that’s the crucial thing. The psychological impact

There are different types of acne ranging from mild to moderate

of having spots can be massive. I have got kids who bunk off school

acne to severe acne. Dr Lowe says, “In my clinical experience there

and adults who bunk off work because of they don’t want to be seen

is a six point scale of acne severity ranging from non inflamed which

with lots of spots. So many people with acne become depressed

are the multiple blackheads, whiteheads and bumps, through to the

because of it. Its also an issue because its still a disease where you are

very severe nodules, cysts and painful disfiguring lumps.”

made to feel responsible, you have got acne because you are not a nice person, you have got acne because you eat the wrong food,

mild/moderate acne vulgaris consists of: • Whiteheads – Whiteheads result when a pore is completely

you have got acne because you don’t wash properly – all complete

blocked, trapping sebum (oil), bacteria, and dead skin cells,

like breast cancer or bronchitis and its got to be treated, that person

causing a white appearance on the surface. Whiteheads are

is not responsible for it. If you get to a doctor early enough you can

normally quicker in life cycle than blackheads.

prevent the physical scarring but whether or not you can prevent the

rubbish but people still say that about themselves. It is a disease just

psychological scarring is another matter.”

• Blackheads – Blackheads result when a pore is only

28

cosmeticnewsuk.com

Before and After from Obagi CLENZIderm MD

TREATmENT opTIoNS Traditionally acne has always been

Your client’s Skin deserves the Best...

treated by gps or dermatologists using oral or topical antibiotics, however the advent of medical aesthetics has opened the door to other treatments

Microdermabrasion

including chemical peels and laser and light which are not readily available on the NHS. Here we examine the most effective treatment options for acne…

TOPICAL AND ORAL mEDICATIONS aNd ovEr THE coUNTEr crEamS

works in a slightly quirky way. It is available over the

The first line of treatment used by most

counter at chemists but is also prescribable. It works

dermatologists to treat acne is topical medications

extraordinarily well and is very well tolerated and is

or over the counter products containing ingredients

the only topical preparation that I have ever found

such as benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. “There

that will reduce oil production. We did a study a few

are a vast array of treatments available for acne”,

years back to measure oil production and patients

says dr chu. “If you look at the over the counter

reduced their oil production by 30-70% so that

products for acne it’s a billion dollar industry

horrible greasy skin you often get with acne can be

and its horribly confusing because you go to a

sorted by using this product.”

chemist and there is so much there. I did that as an experiment and said to the woman behind the

professor lowe, who has developed his own range

counter ‘my son has got acne what would you

of topical skincare products designed to treat acne

suggest?’ I came out having spent £40 on half a

adds, “The severity and the type of acne depends

dozen products most of which were complete

on the treatment I will use. If it is mild to moderate

rubbish. In my opinion benzoyl peroxide cream is

I will often combine my own blemish range with

still one of the best over the counter treatments.

either salicylic acid peels or visible light. If they have

It’s a very old treatment and its very effective. The

oily skin I will use our oil reducing foaming cleanser

main problems with it is that it’s a bleaching agent

as well as our sebum control cleanser. If they have

so can bleach your clothes, which doesn’t make it

combination skin I will use our foaming moisturising

terribly popular and there are a significant amount

cleanser then get them to use the sebum control

of people who can’t tolerate it as it can irritate the

cleanser on a cotton bud to the oily areas. If they

skin.”

are getting occasional larger inflamed spots I will

Full Training...

get them to use my spot gel up to four or five times a study published in the July issue of the Journal of

the american academy of dermatology (Jaad) July issue entitled, “meta-analysis comparing efficacy of benzoyl peroxide, clindamycin, benzoyl peroxide with salicylic acid, and combination benzoyl peroxide/clindamycin in acne.” Showed that a benzoyl peroxide (Bpo) and salicylic acid regimen (clENZIderm - obagi) is superior (at early end points) to other Bpo rx and oTc as well as Bpo combo products (Bpo plus antibiotic). alexa kimball, m.d. of Harvard medical School and Elizabeth Seidler of massachusetts general Hospital, conducted a meta-analysis of 23 studies (7,309 patients) to assess the efficacy of single and combination acne treatments, including 5% Bpo, 5% Bpo with Sa, 1–1.2% cl, and a Bpo/cl combination. at two to four weeks, 5% Bpo with Sa had statistically greater lesion reductions than the other treatment groups. The researchers wrote “all Bpo plus Sa studies used the same solubilised Bpo (clENZIderm Serum gel), which may suggest the formulation and vehicle as the cause for enhanced efficacy, not simply the combination of Bpo plus Sa”. (See pictureabove right).

a day.”

If over the counter products do not work then

5 Year Warranty...

topical and oral medicines including antibiotics, anti-inflammatories, steroids or topical retinoids can be prescribed. dr chu recommends using a topical vitamin a in most instances. He explains, “The next step if you are not responding to the over the counter products is to go and see your doctor. you develop acne when your oil glands over respond to the male hormone. The gland over reacts and therefore you have an oily skin. you then get a blockage in the skin pore. That blockage has got nothing to do with dirt and grime its due to growth change in the skin cells. The skin cells get sticky and they clog up. The only way of getting rid of that blockage is to use topical vitamin a. vitamin a will normalise the way those cells grown and will allow the plug to dissipate and grow out – no more plugs, no more spots. But it does take time to work. a topical vitamin a is an essential part of treatment for anyone with acne. my daughters who are now 11 have started developing a little bit of acne with blackheads on their noses and they are on topical

Great Versatility Real Reliability Proven Efficacy High Profitability UK manufacturer 5 year warranty

vitamin a already – I think by treating them now dr chu also recomends aknicare. He says, “There

I can hopefully prevent them from getting more

are some very nice new products coming through

inflammatory legions in the future.

which are going to be much better tolerated.

“you also need an antibiotic or an anti-

There is a preparation called aknicare, which

inflammatory to really get rid of the inflammation.

FOR MORE INFO: 01903 768 380 Commerce Way, Lancing, BN15 8TA Email:info@thecarltongroup.co.uk

www.thecarltongroup.co.uk

Special Feature | Acne We usually start off with a topical antibiotic. one of the best

that is not the case, these are happy people who suddenly

ones out at the moment is something called duac which

become morbidly depressed and sit in dark rooms listening

combines an antibiotic with benzyl peroxide. an issue with

to The Smiths and then commit suicide. The time course is

the antibiotics is that we are now seeing resistance in the

usually four to six weeks into treatment so it is like a psychosis.

bacteria to the antibiotics so by adding the benzyl peroxide

The other thing is that you can get persistent side effects with

you prevent that from happening. If people don’t respond

roaccutane and these can occur in up to 10% of people

to topical antibiotics they go on to antibiotics by mouth

and these are often trivialised but I have got a set of 12

and the important issue there is to take them properly.

patients who have got such severe dry lips up to seven years

one of the most common drugs people are put on is

after treatment that they can’t smile or eat and they wish

oxytetracycline but it is inhibited by food in your stomach

they had never heard of the drug. So it’s a great drug when

so you have got to take it on an empty stomach, not eat

you need it but you have to weight up the risks and the

for an hour afterwards and take it four times a day. could

benefits. “

you do that? There is no way I could. If you give that to an 18 year old there is no way they will do it, they will take it

dr lowe adds, “If other things are not working or if the acne

with their meals. So you have got to be careful, there are

is very severe, or potentially scarring and is really having a

certain drugs that you don’t get good bioavailability with so

major physical and emotional impact on the patient, I will

therefore you don’t get good results.”

prescribe roaccutane or one of its equivalents. Because of all of the problems that are perceived with roaccutane, I

Some doctors prescribe oral contraceptive pills to women

feel that it should be only prescribed by a dermatologist. I

with acne but dr chu advises against this, “you have to

happen to use it in a different strength to most people and

be careful with dianette. It is used by a lot of doctors. It is

I think you can get very good results at lower dosages but I

licensed for use in women who have severe acne that is not

just keep them on it for a longer period and I see them every

responding to conventional therapy but in practice its given

month. We do blood tests, we do urine tests, we make sure

to women with a couple of spots whop want the pill. It works

they are not pregnant, we make sure they are not having

because it suppresses male hormone but the problem is that

any mood changes which I think is very rare but its important

although it will work well in about 40% of women it won’t

to keep an eye on that.”

work for everyone however even if it hasn’t worked when you come off it the acne goes ballistic because the male

cHEmIcal PEELS

hormone suddenly escapes control and brings all the acne back again so it’s a nightmare trying to get people off it.”

chemical peeling is one of the most tried and tested

for severe acne that has failed to respond to other

beauty treatments around with its use dating back

treatments an oral tretinoin such as isotretinoin (roaccutane)

thousands of years. The ancient Egyptians were known to

can be prescribed. However there have been a lot of

rub fermented grape skins, which are rich in tartaric acid,

controversies surrounding the use of this drug because of

onto their skin to improve its appearance and texture.

its unpredictable and sometimes severe side effects and its

The use of chemical peels to treat both acne and acne

association with suicide. dr chu explains, “roaccutane is an

scarring has grown in popularity in recent years. The most

incredibly good drug when you need it and it still something

effective acids used in the treatment of acne is salicylic

that I will use, however it is grossly overused in the Uk and

acid.

around the world. The two unpredictable features of it are firstly it isn’t a cure in 50% of patients, 50% of patients will

dr chu says, “peels are particularly useful for patients who

relapse and the relapse can be as little as two weeks after

have blocked pores and are not doing well on topical

stopping the drug so you can actually go through a lot

vitamin a. We do have some patients where the disease

of side effects with the drug and two weeks after having

is so active that no matter how much vitamin a you put

perfectly clear skin it can all be back again.

on you just can’t control it. We now have some very good chemical peels, I use one that is based on salicylic

“The second unpredictable thing is what side effects

acid which will dissolve dead skin which helps to get rid

you will get. I can put my hand on my heart and I have

of a lot of the blockages in one enormous blast and then

treated thousands of patients with roaccutane since it was

keep them under control with vitamin a.”

launched 25 years ago and I have never had any bad reaction with any of my patients but because of my position in dermatology I am sent all of the disasters from round the country and some of them are absolute disasters – I have had young people whose lives have virtually been destroyed by roaccutane. It can cause, once again rarely, a massive outbreak in the first few weeks that you take it, and I have got patients who literally had four or five spots when they were put on roaccutane and suddenly in four weeks time they were covered all over their body and were going to be left with hideous scarring. We don’t know why it happens but it is a real pain and it can be difficult to treat. It can also cause quite severe muscle aches and joint aches and I have had professional footballers who couldn’t train because they were on it.

“It can cause depression. There are still documents that say it is only because they are depressed about their acne but

30

cosmeticnewsuk.com

Special Feature | Acne

LASER aNd LIGhT The use of laser and light therapy has become commonplace in the management of acne and treatment of acne scarring in recent years. In the same way that exposure to sunlight can improve the appearance of acne, laser and light treatments can be use to treat the condition. Some treatments work by using light to

pictures courtesy of the mapperely park clinic

kill the bacteria that produces the inflammation associated with acne

acne conditions to improve over a significant time-frame in the

while some work to reduce the production of sebum by damaging

majority of cases.

the sebaceous glands in the skin by a thermal or heat effect.

“There is some histology evidence to support this model – especially in dr low says, “I prefer either 405nm plus 655nm or just 655nm alone

measured output increase in collagen and Tgfβ (Transforming growth

to kill the bacteria the p.acnes. If there is lots of inflammation as well

factor βeta) pre-markers and a single peer-reviewed, double-blinded

but its not too severe and they want it cleared up as soon as possible

study indicates likely efficacy but supporting science is generally

I will use the pulsed dye laser the 585nm pdl or the Ipl with the

behind the field application.”

appropriate filter in place. I don’t think the lasers and Ipl work well on severe acne but if its more modest acne they can be very effective.”

Jo martin from mapperely park adds, “I have carried out thousands of Nlite laser treatments for acne over the last 11 years. I have other

dr chu favors the Nlite, the first low-energy pdl designed to deliver

treatment options, such as Ipl, at my clinic but prefer low-energy pdl

low-energy outputs for commercial treatments, a treatment he

as a virtually painless treatment – because using low energy - with

helped to develop. He undertook the first clinical pdl trial which

long lasting effects. “results can be surprisingly rapid, with some

showed an average drop of two in the leeds grading scale, and

clients reporting reduction in tenderness of inflamed lesions in as little

an average 50% drop in the number of lesions following a single

as 30 minutes. many clients see marked improvement after one or

treatment. results were rapid and long lasting, suggesting an effect

two sessions, and results can last many months. Not all clients see a

on immunological factors. following press coverage of the trial

cessation of breakouts but most will have a smaller number of lesions

there was unprecedented demand. mpc carried out hundreds of

that will be smaller and quicker to heal, hence avoiding long lasting

treatments with positive and predictable results. The failure rate is

erythema or scarring.

approximately 2%.

“The aim of treatment is to gain improvement by delivering a short He says, “The laser itself is a non-destructive laser so it doesn’t harm

course of laser supported by a tailored product and maintenance

the skin. The way it works is that it stimulates your skin to produce a

regime, with clients subsequently returning only for “break out

whole host of chemicals that will literally suppress inflammation so all

control”, usually arising during periods when stress levels increase.

this works like a super antibiotic. one treatment can last up to three

“a low-energy pdl can also target other structures from herpes

months so it has revolutionised my treatment of acne. I have had

simplex infections to collagen structures in the dermis – The Nlite

patients who have failed on virtually everything but the Nlite has

was initially envisaged as a wrinkle-reduction device. In high-energy

turned them around and sorted them out. The beauty of the NlIte is

mode, a pdl can effectively ablate vascular tissue and also cause

that it will also stimulate collagen production. The laser was originally

thermal damage to vascularised targets such as wart-virus infections.”

developed for facial rejuvenation, so it can help with the scarring at the same time. Ultimately from a scientific point of view it can turn off the mechanism that is causing the acne and therefore allow patients to grow out of it. We use it in the hospital and we use it in my private clinics and we have fantastic successes with it – it has massive advantages.”

The treatment is also favoured by the mapperley park clinic.

The clinic has used it since 1999 when it began treating atrophic acne scars to build collagen, but had requests to treat live lesions from several clients who had noticed improvements. managing director paul Stapleton explains, “The pulsed dye laser (pdl) treatment for acne relies on getting three treatment parameters right. Energy delivered at the right wavelength (585-595nm approx) is well absorbed by surface vascular structures where, if a relatively low amount of energy is delivered, the target vasculature is not seriously damaged. However, if the pulse is delivered in the microsecond range, the ‘shock-and-heat’ delivery is thought to trigger a range of stimulated repair cascades, including increased fibro-blast and growth factor activity, that helps

32

cosmeticnewsuk.com

be a part of the aesthetic revolution

expo 2011 6th & 7th may 2011

business design centre, London, isLington register online now for free entry to the ukâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s onLy free of charge aesthetics exhibition. bringing together the best manufacturers, distributors, retaiLers and educationaL seminars aLL under one roof. register onLine now for free trade entry

www.cosmeticnewsuk.com for exhibition space enquiries please contact hollie dunwell on 01268 754 897 or hollie.jane@creativemedialtd.co.uk

View On | Skin Health Restoration

ThE RESTORATION wOMAN Constance Campion gives her view On advanced skin health restoration

It would be difficult not to notice the vast array of innovative technologies that have sprung up within the growing aesthetics marketplace since the birth of medical aesthetics in the early 90’s.

Steadily developing over the past 20 years, the menu is continuously expanding unabated.

Constance Campion is an analyst with an interest in medical private equity. Her position in the area of rejuvenation healthcare sciences is rooted in her education, knowledge, and experience as a specialist nurse practitioner in plastic surgery, medical aesthetics and anti-ageing wellness medicine. Described by Vogue magazine and Storm as one of their top beauty secrets, she has successfully merged two distinct careers as a market analyst and as a nurse, working alongside her husband and others at Plastic Surgery Associates UK and The London Wellness Anti-Ageing Medicine Centre. A champion of safe technologies in rejuvenation medical enterprise, nursing status and professional education, she is vice-president of AIMA and a director of Medico Beauty Ltd.

What professionals are now starting to note more seriously

continuous professional development. product training,

however, is what our advanced beauty ‘shoppers’ and

a chemical peels workshop, or a product supplier’s

aesthetic patients actually want. most notably evidenced

training to use a medical device, does not constitute the

by clairol and p&g Beauty research is the fact that 87%

educational learning required to achieve professional

of those surveyed stated that they would like better skin,

competency in medical aesthetics; nor is it adequate in

with women worldwide being concerned most about the

order to learn skin health restoration.

effects of ageing facial skin, including fine lines, wrinkles, poor texture, blemishes and hyperpigmentation. The men

product training may form part of the professional

prioritised an equal measure of facial skin, whilst the skin

development and endeavour necessary, but it should

condition on their backs appears to be causing them

not be relied upon in order to recognise, diagnose, or

concern also.

to competently manage the common cosmetic skin concerns that one sees in everyday practice. ‘Skin is an

If advanced skin services are now the critically acclaimed

organ and not just a face’, is our practice’s mantra. The

winning factor within advanced rejuvenation enterprise,

health status of a patient interfaces with their skin, is an

one can deduce that skin health restoration should be

important factor, when it comes to successfully resolving

taken far more seriously. I have met a huge number

common cosmetic skin conditions.

and variety of aesthetic patients over the 20 years that I have worked at plastic Surgery associates Uk and at The

The success to achieve results, relies on the early

london Wellness anti-ageing medicine centre in london.

identification of disease pathologies, changes in hormonal

The clinical approach that my medical colleagues and I

balance, and the intrinsic levels of inflammation by

advocate is evidenced by the practice’s philosophy that

critical analyses of their root causes, (which may be

skin health shares the same parameters as wellness and

long-standing). The entrenched ‘cookie cutter’ latest skin

good ageing.

rejuvenation device approach does not help to achieve

The vast majority of our patients seek treatment, because

wide use of microdermabrasion, lasers and chemical peels

skin health restoration has been at the forefront of the

denoting that a ‘one size fits all’ approach to manage skin

practice activity since the practices’ inception. What

is harmful

a successful skincare practice. for example, the ad hoc

patients request most is an even skin colour, balanced tone and even texture with a more healthy youthful

Treatments have to target the root of the condition,

appearance. very few ask to look 10 years younger,

rather than mask the symptoms, as results are marred by

although they display what they perceive would make

a free radical attack, which damages and prematurely

them look much better.

ages skin in the long-term. Treatment choice comes from understanding the critical role of inflammation in the skin

The sine qua non of how best to achieve success in

and body. common cosmetic skin concerns are by their

the area of skin health practice is rooted in accessing

nature rooted in inflammation. Therefore it is important to

generic education first and to update regularly, through

understand the role of inflammation in the skin and

cosmeticnewsuk.com

35

View On | Skin Health Restoration

body, so as to move away from the caustic approach to

What is being sought in an effective treatment journey that

extrinsic wounding and annihilating the skin so that a wound

utilises ingredients and the correct technology that allows

healing response is generated. This can lead to good results

molecules to penetrate. The objective is to activate the

– in the short term – but married with a free radical attack,

cell function, so as to mimics that which was present when

prematurely ages skin in the long-term.

that patient was a child.

The skin treatments and products that we utilise are applied

finding the right balance in the formulation of the skincare

in conjunction with how accelerated a patient’s wellness

being used, in order to provide stimulating effects, remove

optimisation is set, in order to assist and support the skin.

unhealthy tissue and, crucially, to replace the former skin

Understanding cellular health and human body function runs

with healthier functioning skin, without causing irritation

in tandem with this.

or excess dryness, despite an increase in proliferation is key. The competent practitioner must set forth with

The treatment philosophy that we adopted many years ago

the right ingredients, the correct formulation and the

stared with an conducting a comprehensive assessment,

very best technology available, so as to start to reduce

which engenders patient education and scientifically

inflammation, otherwise the condition flares, or rebounds.

evaluating evidenced treatments that are linked to those

a blend of active ingredients that target the root cause of

that share the same parameters as those which make a

the skin condition, but that can also correct and restore

positive contribution to cellular health and wellness lead

the barrier function is vital for success that will normalize

to excellent results and good ageing. Those are the simple

skin cell function

principles of patient management in our two centres.

Suggested safe ingredient checklist – products that are free from:

The management plan relies on the early identification of disease pathologies, changes in hormonal balance, and the correct assessment of intrinsic levels of inflammation by critical analyses of their root causes, which may be long-standing.

•

conditions further, whilst the patient’s real health may also

•

harsh surfactants, such as sodium, ammonium and lauryl/ laureth sulphates

be diminishing whilst they are pre-maturely ageing. crucially genetics also plays a role and most importantly, dictates how

Synthetic preservatives, such as parabens or phenoxyethanol

The drivers of intrinsic silent inflammation exasperates skin

•

Petrochemicals, including PEGs, paraffin and other glycols

much protection the skin has from inflammation once a simple programme of skin-health exchange has

•

Silicones

been put in place, the first line of defence in basic skincare is

•

mineral oils

ingredient and product.

•

Genetically modified or irradiated ingredients

•

Artificial fragrances

Ingredient combining with an effective slew of antioxidants,

•

Grain alcohols

pepoxides, growth factors, retinoids, and enzyme inhibitors, to

•

Chemical sun protection filters

deal with skin, which is overwhelmed by intrinsic inflammation and exposure to Uv radiation and harmful pollutants is a deciding factor.

finding the right balance in the formulation of the skincare being used, in order to provide stimulating effects, remove unhealthy tissue and, crucially, to replace the former skin with healthier functioning skin, without causing irritation or excess dryness, despite an increase in proliferation is key We are also pro-active in educating our patients about how to use sun-block, whilst also gaining the benefits of the healthy rays of sunshine. melanin provides the second immune response to protect vital dNa in skin cells, as it prevents them from being corrupted by ultra violet rays, particularly if patients sunbathe or use tanning beds. disrupting or abusing the stratum basal however is not advised, so patients are instructed in how to understand it properly. Skin correction occurs through the intrinsic and extrinsic reprogramming process, which influences the behaviour of skin cells in order to normalise cell function.

36

cosmeticnewsuk.com

BUyEr BEWARE manufactures of skincare and other medical devices often have a tendency to put marketing at the forefront of their sales strategy, rather than the education and the evidenced results that customers need to see.

They also have the resources to proffer doctors to evidence what they want their customers to believe. many of the medical experts that are presenting their research today in the rejuvenation speciality are sadly pioneers of their own hidden agendas. an uneducated market is one, which is far easier to sell and to supply. due to this fact, many US, some recession-hit companies have targeted the Uk. my professional advice is Buyer Beware.

realnurseprescriber.com • don’t get ripped off paying a private company for your V300 course • don’t be persuaded to misrepresent your speciality or exaggerate your previous training • don’t rush, make a considered choice, places for aesthetics will become available • don’t get taken for an expensive ride by dodgie-derm, save £2,800 by booking direct De Montfort University Middlesex University Teesside University

£ 1,100 £ 870 £ 900

Clinical Study | Combining Hydroquinone and Tretinoin

IN COmBINATION

We examine the results of a multi-centre investigator-masked study into the further enhancement of facial appearance with a hydroquinone/tretinoin skincare system in patients previously treated with botulinum toxin type A AUTHORS: Joel Schlessinger, MD, Skin Specialists, PC, Omaha, NE; Phillip Werschler, MD, Premier Clinical Research, Spokane, WA; Jeffrey Kenkel, MD, FACS, University of Texas, Southwestern, Dallas, TX

INTRODUCTION

tretinoin, the system contains a cleanser (to remove sebum lipids, desquamated cells, and other debris from the skin), a toner (to remove

a 4% hydroquinone/tretinoin skincare system has been used successfully

post-cleansing residue and lower the pH of the skin), an exfoliant (to

for many years to help improve the appearance of prematurely

produce sloughing of the stratum corneum), and a sunscreen (to protect

photoaged skin.1 Hydroquinone can decrease the visible damage due to

against further photodamage). In order to optimise the clinical benefits

hyperpigmentation and melasma2, and tretinoin can reduce fine wrinkling,

of each component, the sequence and timing of application of each is

mottled hyperpigmentation, and tactile roughness.3-5 Because of their

defined. Together, the cleanser, toner, and exfoliant may help improve the

different mechanisms of action, and because tretinoin may facilitate the

permeability of the epidermis. overall, the system aims to condition the skin

epidermal penetration of hydroquinone2, their combined use is likely to

before facial rejuvenation procedures, enhance the quality of the skin post-

achieve greater clinical benefits than either agent alone. furthermore,

procedure, and enhance both clinical outcomes and patient satisfaction.

their use in an acne system providing a coordinated skincare regimen may enhance patient compliance6—perhaps because of the convenience

Using the hydroquinone/tretinoin system in conjunction with other facial

of using a system that defines a daily routine to cater not only to acne

rejuvenation treatments with different mechanisms of action – such as

treatment but also to overall skincare.

botulinum toxin type a – should further enhance the degree of clinical improvement attainable. This study sought to evaluate the efficacy of the

recently, a version of the hydroquinone/tretinoin system that is specifically

hydroquinone/tretinoin system, compared with a standard skincare regimen,

designed to be used in conjunction with non-surgical and non-ablative

in improving facial appearance in patients who were users of botulinum

procedures has become available.7 In addition to hydroquinone and

toxin type a.

mEThODS

microdermabrasion (light or medium skin peel) • Three months for non-ablative laser, light, and radiofrequency treatment • Six months for facial dermabrasion (deep skin peel), ablative laser treatments, and injection of a dermal filler

STUDY DESIGN:

• Multicenter, randomised, investigator-masked, parallel-group study mAIN INCLUSION CRITERIA

• A minimum of two previous upper facial treatments with botulinum toxin type a: – one 24 hours before entering the study and one in the previous three to six months – Both in the same upper facial areas (to treat glabellar lines and/ or crow’s feet and/or forehead lines) – Both with the same formulation and a similar number of units • 30-65 years of age mAIN ExCLUSION CRITERIA:

• History of periorbital surgery, brow lift, or related procedures • Ocular infection, skin disorder around the treated area, marked facial asymmetry, dermatochalasis, deep dermal scarring, or excessively thick sebaceous skin • Eyelid or eyebrow ptosis • History of laser skin resurfacing in the previous six months • Use of topical tretinoin in the previous three months other than the study medication • Use of systemic steroid therapy in the previous six months • Use of an oral retinoid in the previous two years • Planning of any other facial cosmetic procedure during the study • Recent excessive exposure to ultraviolet light • Any uncontrolled systemic disease WAShOUT PERIODS:

• Seven days for any topical products containing alpha-hydroxy acids, retinoic acid, retinol, salicylic acid, vitamin c, or vitamin d or its derivatives • 30 days for any investigational drug and for facial 38

cosmeticnewsuk.com

TREATmENT REGImEN:

• Random assignment (1:1) to one of the following (Table 1) for 120 days: 4% hydroquinone/0.05% tretinoin skincare system, comprising: - cleanser - Toner - proprietary 4% hydroquinone - Exfoliant - Sunscreen - 0.05% tretinoin cream Standard skincare regimen, comprising: - cleanser - moisturiser - Sunscreen • The use of any non-medicated cosmetics could be continued as long as they were not applied before any study visit and their prestudy regimen was otherwise unchanged during the study. No other lotions, creams, powders, or solutions were allowed on the treatment area during the study OUTCOmE mEASURES:

• Investigator evaluations (rated as none, trace, mild, moderate, or severe): – Hyperpigmentation – fine lines/wrinkles – laxity – Burning – dryness

– peeling – Erythema • Patient evaluations (Table 2): – Noticeability of facial wrinkles – Evenness of facial color tone – Smoothness of facial skin – Satisfaction with current treatment – Satisfaction with overall improvement in facial appearance – Effect of study treatment in further enhancing facial appearance after the latest botulinum toxin type a treatment (a comparison with the effect of past treatment using botulinum toxin type a alone) – Notice of positive change in facial appearance by peers

– facial appearance compared with age – desire to continue with study treatment STATISTICAL ANALYSES:

• Between-group differences were analysed using the following tests: – chi-square test for demographic details – Student’s t test for the investigator evaluations and for the dose of botulinum toxin type a – pearson’s chi-square test for the patient evaluations • A P value of 2.05 was considered statistically significant

TABLE 1: applIcaTIoN INSTrUcTIoNS for EacH STUdy rEgImEN TREATmENT REGImEN

mORNING REGImEN

EvENING REGImEN

hYDROQUINONE/TRETINOIN SYSTEm

• Cleanser - apply to wet the face, rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water, gently pat dry with a soft towel (avoiding rubbing the skin with the towel) • Toner - apply to entire face using cotton wool, avoiding eye area. allow to dry • Hydroquinone – apply pea-sized amount in thin film over entire face. allow to dry • Exfoliant - apply pea-sized amount in thin film over entire face. Wait until absorbed • Sunscreen (SPF 35) - apply to entire face

• Cleanser - apply to wet the face, rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water, gently pat dry with a soft towel (avoiding rubbing the skin with the towel) • Toner - apply to entire face using cotton wool, avoiding the eyes. allow to dry • Hydroquinone – apply pea-sized amount in thin film over entire face. allow to dry • Hydroquinone (different formulation to that used in previous step) – apply pea-sized amount in thin film over entire face • Tretinoin – apply pea-sized amount in thin film over entire face. allow to dry before retiring to bed

STANDARD SkINCARE

• Cleanser – apply to wet the face, rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water, gently pat dry with a soft towel (avoiding rubbing the with the towel) • Moisturiser – apply to entire face, avoiding the eye area. allow to dry

• Cleanser – apply to wet the face, rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water, gently pat dry with skin a soft towel (avoiding rubbing the skin with the towel) • Moisturiser – apply to entire face, avoiding the eye area. allow to dry

TABLE 2: ScalES for paTIENT EvalUaTIoNS Noticeability of facial wrinkles

Evenness of facial color tone

Smoothness of facial skin

Satisfaction with current treatment

Satisfaction with overall Improvement in facial appearance

Improvement compared with previous botulinum toxin type A treatments

Notice of Positive change in facial appearance by peers

Facial appearance compared with age

Desire to continue with current treatment

Very noticeable

Much more even

Much smoother

Extremely satisfied

Extremely satisfied

Greatly improved

Everyone has noticed a positive change

Much younger

Yes

Noticeable

More even

Smoother

Satisfied

Satisfied

Improved

A lot of my peers have noticed a positive change

Younger

No

Slightly noticeable

The same

The same

Indifferent

Indifferent

Somewhat improved

About half of my peers have noticed a positive change

My age

–

Gone

More uneven

Rougher

Dissatisfied

Dissatisfied

The same

Some of my peers have noticed a positive change

Older

–

–

–

Much rougher

Very dissatisfied

Very dissatisfied

Worse

No-one has noticed any positive change

Much older

–

cosmeticnewsuk.com

39

Clinical Study | Combining Hydroquinone and Tretinoin RESULTS PATIENTS: • A total of 61 patients enrolled and 55 (90%) completed: – one discontinued due to lack of efficacy (standard skincare group) – one discontinued due to personal reasons (standard skincare group) – four were lost to follow-up (two in each group).

• Mean age of 50 years • Predominantly: – female (98%) – caucasian (92%) – fitzpatrick skin type III (54%)

TOLERABILITY: • Throughout the study, mean levels of burning, dryness, and peeling were

• There were no significant between-group differences in demographic details

less than mild, and mean levels of erythema were less than moderate (figures

or botulinum toxin type a dose

6-9). mean levels of burning, dryness, peeling, and erythema were significantly greater with the hydroquinone/tretinoin regimen than with standard skincare on

EFFICACY – INvESTIGATOR ASSESSmENTS:

days 30, 60, and 90, and on day 120 for dryness and peeling.

• Mean scores for hyperpigmentation and fine lines/wrinkles were significantly

• One adverse event was possibly related to study treatment (a burning

lower with the hydroquinone/tretinoin treatment than with standard skincare as

sensation from eyebrow waxing in a patient receiving hydroquinone/tretinoin

early as day 30 (p≤.05, figures 1 and 2)

treatment).

• Mean laxity scores were reduced with the hydroquinone/tretinoin

EFFICACY – PATIENT ASSESSmENTS: • Overall ratings for all nine of the patient assessments reported were significantly superior in the hydroquinone/tretinoin group compared with the standard skincare group at days 90 and 120 (p≤.05). (There had been no significant between-group differences in these parameters at baseline)

CONCLUSIONS compared with standard skincare, the hydroquinone/tretinoin system offers

• Between baseline and day 120, the proportion of patients who considered

multiple significant clinical benefits in users of botulinum toxin type a – including

their facial lines/wrinkles to be noticeable or very noticeable:

improvements in fine lines/wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, smoothness of skin, and

– declined from 87% to 21% in the hydroquinone/tretinoin group

evenness of skin color tone. It also offers a relatively greater likelihood of patients

Increased from 74% to 81% in the standard skincare group

considering their topical study treatment further enhanced facial appearance after botulinum toxin type a treatment and a relatively greater likelihood of

• At day 120, and compared with standard skincare, there was a considerably

patients perceiving themselves to look younger than their actual age. finally,

greater proportion of patients in the hydroquinone/tretinoin group who:

use of the hydroquinone/tretinoin system offers greater patient satisfaction and

– considered the color tone of their skin to be more even or much more even

a high proportion of patients motivated to continue with their treatment after

than at baseline (93% vs. 8%)

the first four months of therapy.

– considered their facial texture to be smoother or much smoother than at baseline (93% vs.19%) – Were satisfied or extremely satisfied with their study treatment (93% vs.12%)

REFERENCES

– Were satisfied or extremely satisfied with the overall improvement in their facial

1) Herndon JH, Stephens TJ, Sigler ml. Efficacy of a tretinoin/

appearance (89% vs.12%) (figure 3)

hydroquinone-based skin health system in the treatment of facial

– considered their study treatment further enhanced facial appearance after

photodamage. cos derm 2006;19:255-62.

their latest botulinum toxin type a treatment (86% vs. 8%) (figure 4)

2) Halder rm, richards gm. Topical agents used in the

reported that at least some of their peers had noticed a positive change in

management of hyperpigmentation. Skin Therapy lett 2004;9:1-3.

their facial appearance (82% vs.16%)

3) renova® (tretinoin emollient cream) 0.05% prescribing information. orthoNeutrogena website. https://www.

• Between baseline and day 120, the proportion of patients who considered

aboutrenova.com/rENova.05.pdf. published february 1998.

that they looked younger or much younger than their age (figure 5):

accessed may 14, 2009.

– Increased from 30% to 64% in the hydroquinone/tretinoin group

4) kang S, Bergfeld W, gottlieb aB, et al. long-term efficacy and

– declined from 29% to 23% in the standard skincare group

safety of tretinoin emollient cream 0.05% in the treatment of photodamaged facial skin: a two-year, randomized, placebo-

• Overall, 100% of patients in the hydroquinone/tretinoin group wanted to

controlled trial. am J clin dermatol 2005;6:245-53.

continue their regimen post-study compared with 20% in the standard skincare

5) griffiths cE. The role of retinoids in the prevention and repair of

group.

aged and photoaged skin. clin Exp dermatol 2001;26:613-8.

6) Bowe Wp, Shalita ar. Effective over-the-counter acne treatments. Semin cutan med Surg 2008;27:170-6.

7) obagi medical products website. obagi medical products launches two new systems to optimize results of non-surgical and surgical facial aesthetic procedures [press release, aug 22, 2007]. http://phx.corporate-ir.net/phoenix.zhtml?c=124836&p=irolnewsarticle&Id=1042623&highlight=. accessed may 27, 2009.

40

cosmeticnewsuk.com

Nannic NBE500

THE ULTIMATE SKIN REJUVENATION TREATMENT Radiofrequency with patented bipolar coaxial technology and IDEA-approved lamellar creams What does the NBE500 do?

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

Promotes cell turnover and production Increases the moisture retention of the skin Improves the supply of oxygen-rich blood Increases uptake of active ingredients Aids the structure of connective tissues Strengthens the miofacial muscles Reduces pore size Initiates liposysis Drains the lymph system (Detox) Reduces free radicals

Compact body: 38cm x 20cm x 15cm

• • • • • • •

Painless No side effects 6 specially designed NBE products Bi-polar probe in two sizes No medical supervision required CE-approved 2 year guarantee Free training

www.nannicuk.com Tel: 0207 221 3933 / 07092 846 092 E-mail: info@nannicuk.com Publicité Needle.pdf 16/07/2010 17:25:18

C

M

J

No o hematoma and no bruising

CM

MJ

Efficiency fficiency improved

CJ

CMJ

N

Easier and faster Totally safe Painless

Q&A | Harminder Singh

Q& A Harminder Singh runs aesthetics in Hertfordshire and was one of the first dentist clinics to be approved to be on the IHaS register of Injectable cosmetic providers. His clinic will now appear on the online register at TreatmentsyoucanTrust.co.uk. He spoke to cosmetic News about why he decided to sign up to the scheme and what the registration process was like…

Cosmetic News: Why did you want to register with the IhAS scheme?

Harminder Singh: The reasoning is two fold: • To review our systems, to ensure that we are providing a service which reaches the high standards required.

There is always room for improvement, so this would improve our knowledge and the patients’ experience and service.

• To gain recognition for the good work that our clinic is doing and set us apart from the competition. With so many clinics offering injectables,

This scheme is very important to the industry, as there is currently little regulation for cosmetic injectable treatments. In the absence of this statutory regulation, the Quality Assurance Mark register allows patients to choose from providers that meet a wide range of professional and legal standards

42

cosmeticnewsuk.com

We speak to harminder Singh about why he was one of the first dentists in the Uk to sign up to the IhAS Register of Injectable Cosmetic Providers patients are confused and may just go for the cheapest option, which isn’t always the safest or most appropriate.

The Quality assurance mark enables consumers to recognise that we offer the highest level of care and gives them the confidence that they are receiving a treatment they can trust.

CN:

Do you see this as an important quality assurance mark to receive?

HS:

The IHaS Quality assurance mark is definitely an important attribute for a clinic or practitioner to have, as it is the first of its kind. Since the registration process is quite stringent it might put some clinics off, as some may not match up to the high standards. However, it is important that the registration process is robust, proving that those who have registered do meet the high standards and training principles set out. By successfully achieving registration, we have proven that we offer a high standard of care and professionalism and are happy to be inspected when needed.

CN: Do you think this is important for the wider industry?

HS:

yes, this scheme is very important to the industry, as there is currently little regulation for cosmetic injectable treatments in the industry. In the absence of this statutory regulation, the Quality assurance mark and Treatments you can Trust register allows patients to choose from providers that meet a wide range of professional and legal standards.

This has set a standard, which practitioners will need to meet, and the public will hopefully seek this standard out when choosing a clinic.

CN

: Will you be marketing the fact that you have received the quality assurance mark to your patients?

HS: yes, definitely. We will also display our certificate in our clinic and advertise the Quality assurance mark on our website and clinic literature.

CN: Do you think this will help your business?

HS:

I certainly hope so. The scheme will be promoted by a major public awareness campaign and we will be promoting our registration to the local community ourselves.

time for your

surgery insurance check up…

Surgery Insurance ✓ Premises & stock ✓ Public liability ✓ Computer / inspection cover Professional Liability Insurance for Aesthetic Treatments ✓ Botulinum Toxin ✓ Dermal Fillers ✓ Laser and Lights CALL ToDAy to speak to one of our experts and find out how much you could be saving!

PLuS joIN our PremIer CLub to receive a variety of benefits and discounts – call now to see what’s on offer

Call 0845 310 6300

Quote code: ADCN02 (lines open Mon-Fri. 9.00 to 5.30)

or visit us at: www.hamiltonfraser.co.uk

Hamilton Fraser Insurance Kingmaker House, Station Rd, New Barnet, Herts, EN5 1NZ. Hamilton Fraser Insurance is a trading name of HFIS plc. HFIS plc are authorised & regulated by the FSA.

P r o p e r t y | Te n a n c y D e p o s i t P r o t e c t i o n | A e s t h e t i c & C o s m e t i c P r o f e s s i o n a l L i a b i l i t y

|

business | Home

The time has come for those injectable cosmetic providers who believe in the highest quality treatments to stand up and be counted. For too long, unqualified practitioners with little regard for best practice have compromised the industry’s image and put patients at risk. Now there is an opportunity to restore consumer confidence in the industry.

Registration for this Government-backed register is now open.

Once accepted, providers will be listed on the register’s public website Treatments You Can Trust, which will launch to the public in September. To ensure providers are directory enabled by this time, they can just follow the five easy stages of registration:

THE TIME HAS COME

STAGE 1: Initial Expression of Interest – Providers to pay £50 +VAT to record their initial interest in the scheme, enables access to the standards and training principles which all providers must meet to gain registration.

STAGE 2: Self Assessment against Standards and Training Principles – Providers are required to complete self-assessment forms and submit evidence of their practice and pay the full registration fee of £500 +VAT for individual practitioners or £1000 +VAT for larger organisations. Review of the evidence will take a maximum of 10 working days.

STAGE 3: Assessment and Award of the Quality Mark – Practitioners will be contacted by email to inform them of whether they have been awarded the Quality Assurance Mark they will then be issued with a certificate to display in the practice demonstrating that they achieved the standards required for the quality mark STAGE 4: Inspection – Inspections will be conducted of registered organisations.

STAGE 5: Annual Renewal – Registration is valid for 12 months, after which time practitioners will need to complete the process again and pay the appropriate renewal fee.

To find out more on how to register, providers can visit www.treatmentsyoucantrust.co.uk or email the CHKS at Ihascosmetics@CHKS.co.uk

HOW TO APPLY The web-based applications are being managed by CHKS, the UK’s leading independent provider of healthcare intelligence and quality improvement services.

Step by Step | PRIORI® Advanced AHA Peel

ThE PRIORI WAY

®

We guide you through the treatment protocols for the PRIORI® Advanced AHA Skin Renewal Multi- Layer Peel

The prIorI® advanced aHa Skin renewal multi-layer peel has been developed by the original creators of aHa products who present their latest research in the prIorI® range. The multi-layer peel is based on the brand’s exclusive lca complex, a powerful version of the aHa lactic acid combined with anti-oxidant vitamins in a time released formula. This effective yet gentle peel is suitable for salons, spas and medical clinics. Here we take a step-by-step look at the treatment protocols…

STEP 5: Peel Application

STEP 5:

Using a fan brush or cotton swab apply the prIorI® advanced aHa multi-layer peel solution to the face starting at the forehead, then outer area of face and continue to work to the centre of the face for a maximum of three minutes. apply prIorI® advanced aHa peel neutralising solution to damp cotton pads and remove the peel gel when timer sounds following the pattern of application. repeat three times to ensure all peel residue is removed.

STEP 1:

STEP 1: Consultation Each prIorI® treatment begins with a detailed

STEP 6: Peel Aftercare

consultation which focuses on the clients skin concerns;

dispense four

the results are used to create a bespoke clinical solution

to five pumps

treatment programme.

of prIorI®

STEP 6:

advanced aHa

STEP 2:

STEP 2: Cleansing Procedure

Soothing complex

following eye and lip make-up removal dispense

into palm of the

three pumps of prIorI® advanced aHa gentle facial

hand and apply

cleanser containing 12% lca complex into the palm

to the skin. This

of the hand. Emulsify with water and apply to the face,

innovative formula

neck and décolleté. remove with dampened cotton

contains Epidermal

wool. repeat twice.

fortifying complex (an unique

STEP 3: Pre Peel Skin Preparation

combination of

dispense prIorI® advanced aHa pre-peel solution

Efa’s, cholesterol

onto dry cotton pads and wipe gently over the face to

and ceramides) to ensure the barrier function of the

remove any residue on the skin, to ensure a perfectly

skin is fully restored

even peel application. This solution with its mild content of lactic acid will begin the peeling process.

STEP 4: Peel Preparation

STEP 3:

44

cosmeticnewsuk.com

STEP 4:

STEP 7: PRIORI® Advanced AhA Replenishing mask

STEP 7:

Wearing gloves

dispense four to five

dispense three pumps

pumps of prIorI®

of prIorI® advanced

advanced aHa

aHa peel into a glass

replenishing mask

bowl and set timer

into a glass bowl

to three minutes. a

and apply to face,

prIorI® advanced

neck and décolleté.

aHa peel contains

leave on skin for

lca complex with

10-15 minutes. This

vitamins a,c E and pro-vitamin a all delivered into the skin

mask contains algae

in a time released liposome. This system allows hydroxy

to firm and hydrate

acids to be delivered with much less irritation than is

plus time released

normally experienced, significantly reducing contact time

vitamins to rejuvenate the skin. The mask is optional to

making for a more comfortable client peel.

enhance skin results.

STEP 8:

STEP 8: Eye Serum apply one pump of prIorI® advanced aHa Smoothing Eye Serum to the eye orbit area to reduce puffiness and fine lines; the addition of pentapeptides and light reflectors enhance the anti-ageing results.

STEP 11:

STEP 9: Barrier Repair apply one or two pumps of prIorI® advanced aHa Barrier repair complex

STEP 9:

to the face, neck and décolleté; its

STEP 11:

unique combination of Efa’s, soothing agents and vitamins ensures the skin

PRIORI® CoffeeBerry®* Perfecting minerals Ultimate Finish

barrier is fully protected.

apply prIorI® coffeeBerry® Skin perfecting minerals Spf25 to the face. This advanced mineral system

STEP 10: Daily Defence SPF 30

contains 0.5% coffeeBerry® extract to brighten and

a final

impart a powerful anti-ageing effect. coffeeBerry®

application of prIorI®

STEP 10:

perfecting minerals evens out skin tone, minimises pores and protects the skin from environmental damage.

advanced aHa daily

*Protected by US and International pending patents.

defence Spf

The CoffeeBerry® trademark and related pending

30 ensures

patents are exclusively licensed by J&J Technologies, LC.

total topical skin protection.

The Proven Multi-Layer Skin Renewal System

ADVANCED AHA

WHO SAYS YOU’RE ONLY YOUNG ONCE?

Call us on 0845 555 2121 Email: info@cosmeceuticals.co.uk AHA HALF PAGE ADVERT.indd 1

28/7/10 17:17:30

Product Focus | Botox®

mORE ThAN JUST A PRETTy fACE Last month Botox® became the first botulinum toxin type A to receive a license for chronic migraine. We look at this and other uses of this wonder drug outside of the world of cosmetics…

The word Botox® has become synonymous with beauty, but it is in the field of medicine that the drug first made its mark and has had a life altering impact on many people’s lives.

produce volumes of sweat that may often cause social embarrassment or interfere with daily activities. It is estimated that up to 1% of the population have this condition.

Aside from being the first botulnium toxin in the UK to

Botox® is injected directly in the affected eye muscles

receive cosmetic approval in 2002, Botox® treatment has

which relieves the muscle spasm. The duration of the effect

Hyperhidrosis can be classified as either:

been approved in the UK for:

lasts approximately three months and repeat injections

• Focal - limited to a specific anatomical location(s) - most

• Hemifacial spasm (May 1994)

may be required every three to six months depending on

commonly occurs in the palms (palmar hyperhidrosis), the

• Blepharospasm (May 1994)

recurrence and severity of the condition.

armpits (axillary hyperhidrosis – which Botox® is licensed

• Cervical dystonia (July 1997) • Focal spasticity in paediatric cerebral palsy (June 1998)

CERVICAL DYSTONIA

• Severe axillary hyperhidrosis (July 2001)

Dystonia is the name given to a group of conditions,

• Upper limb spasticity in adult post-stroke (May 2002)

which involve the involuntary twitching, spasm or

to treat), the face (facial hyperhidrosis), or the feet (plantar hyperhidrosis) • General

movement of muscles. In most cases, the underlying cause

Botox® is injected in small doses into the skin to block the

Last month Allergan announced that Botox® had also

of dystonia is not known. Cervical dystonia affects the

actions of the nerves that supply the eccrine glands. This

now been licensed by the MHRA in the UK for the

neck making it difficult to hold the head up straight. The

prevents these glands from producing sweat.

prophylaxis of headaches in adults who have chronic

neck muscles go into spasm, making the head pull, turn,

migraine (headaches on at least 15 days per month of

jerk or tilt towards the shoulder. The shoulder may also

UPPER LIMB SPASTICITY

which at least eight days are with migraine). This is the

be elevated towards the tilted head. In cervical dystonia,

Post-stroke adult spasticity following a stroke occurs when

first licence worldwide of Botox® for this indication,

abnormal postures may be associated with distressing

the muscle does not respond to the nervous system’s signal

and is also the first prophylactic (preventative) treatment

pain. Injections of Botox® have been shown to be very

to relax. As a result, the muscle remains contracted, which

to receive a specific license for patients with chronic

effective for some patients.

can result in pain, restricted mobility and seriously interfere

migraine. We take a closer look at this and each of these

Botox® acts by stopping specific muscles from moving

with the patient’s ability to perform daily activities such as

other indications…

excessively. Treatment with Botox® takes effect three to

dressing and hygiene.

HEMIFACIAL SPASM Hemifacial spasm is a neuromuscular disorder

seven days after injection. The effect of each treatment lasts about three to four months.

Botox® injection therapy treats spasticity by directly targeting the affected muscles of the hand and wrist to

characterised by unpredictable and involuntary twitching

CEREBRAL PALSY

of facial muscles on one side of the face. The condition

Cerebral palsy is the name given to a group of conditions

muscle to relax. Repeat treatment with Botox® has shown

is progressive, beginning with the muscles around the

in which there are disorders of movement, balanceor

to provide sustained improvement in patients with upper

eye and eventually affecting all muscles on one side of

posture.

limb focal spasticity.

Until the advent of Botox® surgery to decompress the

There are three main types of Cerebral Palsy (CP):

CHRONIC MIGRAINE

nerve causing the spasm was the preferred treatment for

• Spastic CP – This is the most common type of CP

Migraines are more than a severe headache and may

hemifacial spasm however in recent years, treatment with

affecting controlled/voluntary movements and most often

include symptoms such as nausea, vomiting, visual

Botox® has provided a minimally invasive alternative to

affecting one side of the body, i.e. one arm and one leg

disturbances and sensitivities to light, noise and smells.

surgery for many patients.

• Dyskinesia CP – Causes various involuntary movements

Migraine may be triggered by a wide variety of factors

The treatment involves injection of therapeutic doses of

of limbs and body

including stress, hormone changes, missing meals, change

purified botulinum toxin type A directly into the affected

• Ataxia CP – The least common type of C, which affects

in weather, sleep disturbance, perfumes/certain smells,

facial muscles. Because these muscle groups are so

balance, the co-ordination of hand movements and

neck pain, lights, alcohol, smoke, heat and certain food.

small, particularly those around the mouth, injections are

sometimes causes jerky speech

the face.

block the release of acetylcholine, thereby allowing the

Migraine can be classified as either:

sometimes guided by electromyography (EMG). The effect is temporary and the treatment needs to be readministered

Botox® acts locally on the muscles, allowing developing

• Episodic migraine whereby patients have headaches,

approximately every three to four months depending on

muscles to grow more normally and providing relief to

for less than 15 days per month

the individual patient.

certain children with CP by straightening their spasmodic

• Chronic migraine, where patients suffer headaches for

legs, which can cramp up and either prevent movement,

15 or more days per month, with migraine on at least

or make walking very difficult and awkward. Botox®

eight of these days.

BLEPHAROSPASM Blepharospasm is a localised movement disorder (focal

treatment may lessen the need for surgery and increase

dystonia) that affects the muscles that control eyelid

the chance of normal motor development.

movement. The disorder is characterised by increased

Botox® injection therapy is the only licensed prophylactic treatment for the prevention of headaches for adults who

blinking caused by involuntary spasms of the muscles

HYPERHIDROSIS

controlling the eyelid.

Hyperhidrosis is a disorder that results in sweating

approximately three months. Patient’s will receive more

Blepharospasm usually affects both eyelids and can

that exceeds the normal amount required to maintain

than 30 injections in the head and back of the neck during

progress to functional blindness.

consistent body temperature. Patients with hyperhidrosis

a single treatment session.

46

cosmeticnewsuk.com

have chronic migraine. The duration of the effect lasts

LCS Academy professional support & education Training and Education for Medical and Aesthetic Practitioners

Care Quality Commission (CQC) Registration and Compliance Services

BTEC Qualifications and courses including:

Complete support services including:

� Laser/IPL Safety ‘Core of Knowledge’ Courses

� Registration of Independent Healthcare Facilities - Acute Hospitals, Private Doctors, Dental Facilities, Minor Surgery Units, IVF Treatment Centres, Hair Transplant Clinics � Other Registerable Services � CQC Registration documentation � Chartered Laser Protection Adviser (LPA) support � Infection Control Advice and Clinical Audit

� Care Quality Commission (CQC) Registration Workshops � Laser/IPL Protection Supervisor Training � NEW BTEC Professional Qualifications in Medical & Aesthetic Therapies, Infection Control and Facility Management � Blended and e-learning courses � Bespoke training tailored to your needs New University Masters Degree in Cosmetic Medicine Fast Track option for Independent Prescribers holding the BTEC Medical/Skin Laser qualifications or those with relevant clinical experience/postgraduate diplomas

CQC Re-Registration Support Competitively priced packages provide clinic registers and supporting materials for successful registration plus attendance at our unique CQC Compliance Workshop.

Call for details

LCS Academy Ltd The Beaufort Clinic Beaufort Drive, Willen, MILTON KEYNES MK15 9ET

t: 0845 003 7315 e: admin@lcsacademy.co.uk www.lcsacademy.co.uk

LCS HealthCare The Beaufort Clinic Beaufort Drive, Willen, MILTON KEYNES MK15 9ET

t: 0845 003 8191 e: admin@lcshealthcare.co.uk www.lcshealthcare.co.uk

News

PRODUCT EASE ThE PAIN

Euromedical Systems Ltd. Is pleased to announce the introduction of a new topical anaesthetic skin refrigerant for aesthetic practitioners and cosmetic doctors and surgeons. Pain Ease® instantly and temporarily controls pain associated with cosmetic procedures such as botulinum toxin and soft tissue fillers, skin tag removal, minor surgical procedures, such as incision and drainage of abcesses or boils and foreign body removal, and suturing and suture removal.

fDA APPROVES xEOMIN® fOR ThE TREATMENT Of CERVICAL DySTONIA AND BLEPhAROSPASM The United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has

manufactured by gebauer in the USa, pain Ease® is effective within seconds, thus

approved merz Pharmaceuticals’ botulinum toxin type A

reducing the waiting time for patients needing topical pain control. The mechanism

xeomin® for the treatment of adults with cervical dystonia

of action is as follows: When sprayed topically to the skin or intact mucous

or blepharospasm. “This is an important regulatory milestone

membranes, pain Ease® creates an instantaneous cooling effect on the surface

for xeomin® and is key to establishing our neurology

of the site by immediate evaporation of the product. The coldness decreases

business in the US,” said Jack Britts, president and CEO of

the nerve conduction

merz Pharmaceuticals, LLC. “We at merz understand, and are

velocity of the c fibres and

committed to, addressing the complexities of treating and

a-delta fibres that make

living with these neurological disorders.”

up the peripheral nervous system. This interrupts the

The fda approval of xeomin® is based on the results of two

nociceptive (stimuli of the

pivotal US clinical trials involving adult patients diagnosed with

brain giving rise to sensation

either cervical dystonia or blepharospasm. additionally, active

of pain) inputs to the

comparator studies conducted in Europe evaluating xeomin®

spinal cord. This process

versus Botox® were included among the data submitted in

temporarily numbs that

support of the registration filing in these conditions. xeomin®

area. The fast evaporation

is the only botulinum toxin that does not require refrigeration

rate is created by pain

prior to reconstitution. merz believes this may simplify product

Ease’s chemical blend and

distribution and storage, and help ensure product integrity at

its unique delivery system.

the time of injection.

DOUBLE APPROVAL fOR CyTORI

wELLNESS TRADING INTRODUCES MESOESTETIC STEM CELL LINE

Cytori Therapeutics has received expanded European

Wellness Trading has introduced the newest

approval (CE mark) for its Celution® System, a

range from mesoestetic to the Uk, Stem Cell

medical device that extracts and separates stem

line. With age our natural cellular renewal

and regenerative cells from a patient’s own fat tissue

process slows down and our cells loose

as well as for its PureGraft™ 250/PURE System for

the ability to function effectively. As a result

autologous fat grafting procedures.

our skin becomes

Used independently, puregraft™ rapidly and reliably

thinner, dull, lined and

produces optimal graft tissue for use in autologous

blemishes appear.

fat grafting procedures. In combination with the

This new range of

celution® 800/crS, puregraft™ lowers processing times and increases processing volumes, improving the utility and efficiency of cytori’s core product for soft tissue applications. cytori will immediately begin commercialising puregraft™ in Europe, through a combination of direct sales and distributors. In addition to the 27 countries of the EU, the cE mark is followed by eight other countries and facilitates additional registrations around the world.

cosmetics use plant stem cells to protect the life of existing cells and activate their capacity for self-repair. vegetable stem cells reactivate aged cells, stimulating the production of elastin and collagen. This technology is encapsulated within liposomes to favour penetration and optimise results.

The range includes: Stem cellactive™ growth factor, a cream that combines the action of plant stem cells to the Epidermal growth factor to achieve a restructuring skin from the inside of the cell; Stem cell Serum restructuractive an intensive concentrated restructuring treatment, which reactivates the renewal of stem cells, protecting and stimulating the dermal and epidermal cells and Stem cell Nanofiller™lip contour, based on plant stem cells and hyaluronic acid specifically designed to treat the delicate area around the mouth.

48

cosmeticnewsuk.com

The ONLY Cosmeceutical Regen Eyelash No pharmaceutical ingredient is included in Regen Eyelash, which contains growth factors naturally-occurring from human body.

No prescription REQUIRED.

No side effects Growth factors, registered on CTFA, have no side effect since they are naturally-occurring from human body.

Completed eye irritation and toxicity tests.

No Dipping means No Contamination Your second dip of eyeliner/mascara type eyelash products leads to easy contamination by dirt and germs from direct exposure of brush in the air. Regen Eyelash adopted airless pumping system, minimizing its exposure to air.

MORNING STAR SURGICAL S.A (Pty) Ltd e-mail: brian@morningstar-medical.com | website: www.morningstarsurgical.co.za Tel: +44 788 187 6505 | Fax: +27 11 622 8753

Business Focus | Marketing

SELF PROMOTION

In the final instalment of our series of articles on the classic 4 Ps of marketing, hilary Ford tells you how to promote your business

In terms of the general perception of all of the marketing mix elements that a business may employ, it is perhaps ‘promotion’ that is the most prominent ‘P’ in the ‘4 P’s’.

In fact to many people promotion is marketing.

P Hilary Ford is one of three directors at Blue Horizons. She has been working in marketing for almost 20 years, in a wide range of sectors including luxury yachts, call centre recruitment and, for the last eight years, the dental and medical sector in the UK and Europe.

Blue Horizons offer a full range of

romotion is a part of a business’s overall effort to communicate with consumers and other audiences about its product or service ‘offering’. Both the business and the consumer have needs which they aim to fulfil; the business wishes to improve or maintain profits and market share, and gain a better reputation than its competitors, and the consumer aims to reach his or her personal goals. The total product offering allows each party to move towards these goals, offering a ‘bundle of satisfactions’ which fulfil needs in an instrumental and a psychological sense (Lancaster G, 2008).

WhAT LINE? advertising agencies often talk about ‘above the line’ (aTl), ‘below the line’ (BTl) and even ‘through the line’ (TTl) promotions – what on earth do they mean?! maSS advErTISINg (above-the-line) DIRECT ThROUGh ThE LINE mARkETING SalES promoTIoN, pUBlIc rElaTIoNS, pErSoNal SEllINg (below-the-line) The ‘line’ was historically used for accounting purposes to show earnings on a commission basis – i.e those

Promotion, the 4th P of the classic marketing mix includes:

above the line. Now, however, the term ‘above the line’

•

Advertising

whereas below the line involves a range of methods

•

Public relations

over which the business has more direct control and

•

Personal selling

which can be targeted at specific groups of customers.

•

Sales promotion

Ideally, businesses should be using a blend of all the

marketing services, including patient

is used to describe advertising to the mass audience

promotional tools available, going above, below and

welcome packs, treatment leaflets,

The Institute of Sales promotion (ISp) defines sales

websites and consultancy.

promotion as: “a range of tactical marketing techniques

through the line!

designed within a strategic framework to add value to a

WhAT ARE WE TRYING TO AChIEvE?

product or service in order to achieve specific sales and

a promotional plan can have a wide range of

marketing objectives.”

objectives, including: sales increases, new product

all types of promotion form a communication link

acceptance, creation of brand equity, positioning,

between a seller and buyer; the purpose of which is to

competitive retaliations, or creation of a corporate

influence or persuade a potential buyer’s purchasing

image. fundamentally, however there are three basic

decision. So, whether you are a cosmetic surgeon

objectives of promotion. These are:

needing to communicate your treatment offering to

50

cosmeticnewsuk.com

patients or a skincare product manufacturer needing

1) To present information -whether to end users,

to push your product through the distribution channels,

distributors, potential customers, investors etc

promotion is arguably the most important element of your

2) To increase demand

marketing mix.

3) To differentiate a product. (kurtz d, 2010)

Before embarking on any form of promotion you must be clear about what it is you are trying to achieve. promotional strategies should focus first and foremost on your existing customers. make sure they are aware of the full range of

mIx ELEmENT

ADvANTAGES

DISADvANTAGES

advertising

Good for building awareness Effective at reaching a wide audience Repetition of main brand and product positioning helps build customer trust

Impersonal – cannot answer all a customer’s questions Not good at getting customers to make a final purchasing decision

personal Selling

Highly interactive – lots of communication between the buyer and seller Excellent for communicating complex / detailed product information and features Relationships can be built up – important if closing the sale make take a long time

Costly – employing a sales force has many hidden costs in addition to wages Not suitable if there are thousands of important buyers

Sales promotion

Can stimulate quick increases in sales by targeting promotional incentives on particular products Good short term tactical tool

If used over the long-term, customers may get used to the effect Too much promotion may damage the brand image

public relations

Often seen as more ‘credible’ – since the message seems to be coming from a third party (e.g. magazine, newspaper) Cheap way of reaching many customers – if the publicity is achieved through the right media

Risk of losing control – cannot always control what other people write or say about your product

your products and services and create opportunities to generate repeat and higher value purchases. you should also be getting your existing customers to spread the word about your business - perhaps by trying out new products and services and offering rewards for introducing new customers.

When focusing your promotional activities on potential customers, aim to create brand awareness and credibility. Ensure they understand your offer and how you differ from your competitors. once you really get into detail, you might even find yourself promoting individual products differently to different groups of customers.

If you use intermediaries to reach your market, you will also have to encourage them to promote your offer to their customers.

hOW ARE WE GOING TO AChIEvE IT? let’s look at the four key areas of promotion:

(1) Advertising any paid form of non-personal communication of ideas or products in the “prime media”: i.e. television, newspapers,

(4) Publicity

magazines, billboard posters, radio, cinema etc. advertising is intended to persuade and to inform. The two basic aspects of advertising are the

The communication of a product, brand or business by placing information

message (what you want your communication to say) and the medium

about it in the media without paying for the time or media space directly.

(how you get your message across).

otherwise known as ‘public relations’ or pr.

(2) Personal Selling

advantages and disadvantages of Each Element of the promotional mix

oral communication with potential buyers of a product with the intention of making a sale. The personal selling may focus initially on developing a

Timing is an important element of any promotional strategy and you should

relationship with the potential buyer, but will always ultimately end with an

ensure that your marketing messages reach your target customers when

attempt to “close the sale”.

they are most receptive. your marketing campaign may well combine

(3) Sales Promotion

short-term activities such as special offers with longer-term brand-building

providing incentives to customers or to the distribution channel to stimulate

activities. an effective promotional strategy can bring all your marketing

demand for a product.

activities together and ensure that different promotions support each other.

WhAT ARE WE GOING TO SAY?

hOW WILL WE mEASURE ITS EFFECTS?

as previously stated, promotion is all about communication – what you say, how you say it,

There are numerous methods of measuring the

when you say it and who you say it to.

effectiveness of promotions. The most important

It’s important to consider the benefits of your

reference is whether you have achieved the

product and/or service to your target customer

objectives that you initially set out. as this is

rather then merely listing the features. In an ever

quite an extensive and obviously important

competitive market, your USps (unique selling

area we shall be addressing this subject in a

propositions) will be what differentiates you

separate article.

from the competition; these can be the more intangible elements of your product, such as

CONCLUSION

the quality of care, the expertise of the team involved, client testimonials, your location/

marketing effectiveness depends significantly

premises etc.

on how you ‘blend’ the four elements of the

you must select the appropriate information not

marketing mix – product, price, place and

only for the target market but also the marketing

promotion.

medium. Think about the tone of voice used in

promotion is all about companies

your promotional activities. The style of a website

communicating with customers.

blog entry should be quite different from a

No matter how good your product or service

patient treatment information leaflet; however,

offering is, without effectively promoting and

all of your marketing communications should

communicating the benefits to your specified

have an over-riding consistency in terms of the

consumer, you are unlikely to succeed in today’s

message and portrayal of your brand identity.

competitive market.

cosmeticnewsuk.com

51

DATES fOR ThE DIARy September

3-4 IAAFA Annual Conference, The Royal Society of Medicine, London, www.iaafa.net 4 IAAFA Charity Ball, Portman Radisson Hotel, London, www.iaafa.net 4 Chemical Skin Peeling Course, Cosmetic Courses National Training Centre, Buckinghamshire, www.cosmeticcourses.co.uk 4 Advanced Skincare Seminars with GMT TEC and Sally Durrant, SIMTR Centre, Birmingham, www.sallydurant.com 4 Innomed Training Advanced Aesthetics (Botulinum Toxin and Dermal Fillers), Southampton, www.innomedtraining.co.uk 4 Mesotherapy For Hair and Stretch Marks, www.boston-medical-group.co.uk 4 Wigmore Medical Training Microsclerotherapy, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 5 Advanced Botox and Dermal Fillers, Southampton, www.medicsdirect.com 6 Genuine Dermaroller™ Training, Birmingham, elizabeth@aestheticare.co.uk 6-9 Five Days Cosmetic Tattooing Diploma Course Haywards Heath, www.finishingtouchesgroup.com 7 Obagi Intermediate Course with Shannon Lister, London, www.healthxchange.com/obagi-training 7 LCS Academy CQC Compliance Workshop, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 8 LCS Academy Laser/IPL Core of Knowledge, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 9 Lumenis Aesthetic Workshop, Mercure Windsor Castle Hotel, clive.swan@lumenis.com 9 Wigmore Medical Training Sculptra, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 11 Foundation Botulinum Toxin and Dermal Filler Training, Cosmetic Courses National Training Centre, Buckinghamshire, www.cosmeticcourses.co.uk 11 British Association of Cosmetic Nurses 1st Annual AGM, The Royal College of Physicians, London, www.cosmeticnurses.org 11 and 12 Foundation Botox and Dermal Fillers, London, www.medicsdirect.com 13-14 Two Days Pigment Removal Training Yorkshire, www.finishingtouchesgroup.com 13-14 Eden Aesthetics Seminar, The Mandolay Hotel and Conference Centre Guildford, Surrey, www.edenaesthetics.com 14 Obagi Overview with Shannon Lister, Dublin, www.healthxchange.com/obagi-training 15 Introduction to Obagi with Shannon Lister, Glasgow www.healthxchange.com/obagi-training 15 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Skincare Peels, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 15 Intraderm Basic Botulinum Toxin Course, Leicester, www.intraderm.com 15 Mapperley Park Core of Knowledge, London www.mapperleypark.co.uk 16 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Botulinum Toxin Type A and Dermal Roller London, www.wigmoremedical.com 16 Intraderm Basic Dermal Filler Course, Leicester, www.intraderm.com 17 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Fillers, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 18 Wigmore Medical Training Microsclerotherapy, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 19 Advanced Botox and Dermal Fillers, Glasgow, www.medicsdirect.com 19-20 Olympia Beauty, London, www.olympiabeauty.co.uk 20 Laser Core of Knowledge and Safety Update Course, Birmingham, www.lasercourse.co.uk 20 Skin Peels, Glasgow, www.medicsdirect.com 20-22 LCS Academy BTEC Medical Laser/IPL Therapies, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 20-23 Five Days Cosmetic Tattooing Diploma Course Liverpool, www.finishingtouchesgroup.com 21 Obagi Intermediate Course with Shannon Lister, Birmingham, www.healthxchange.com/obagi-training 21-23 Advanced Skin and Laser Applications in conjunction with

52

cosmeticnewsuk.com

We round up upcoming events, training courses and meetings

Manchester University, Lynton Clinic, Cheadle, www.lynton.co.uk 22 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Skincare Peels, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 23 Wigmore Medical Training CPR and Anaphylaxis - Update, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 23 Wigmore Medical Training Conceal and Camouflage Post Treatment, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 25 Intermediate/Advanced Botulinum Toxin and Dermal Filler Training, Cosmetic Courses National Training Centre, Buckinghamshire, www.cosmeticcourses.co.uk 25 Innomed Training Chemical Peeling Systems - New Users, London, www.innomedtraining.co.uk 25 and 26 Foundation Botox and Dermal Fillers, Belfast, www.medicsdirect.com 26 Innomed Training Mesotherapy for Fat, Cellulite and Skin Rejuvenation, New Users, London, www.innomedtraining.co.uk 27 Genuine Dermaroller™ Training, London, elizabeth@aestheticare.co.uk 27 Advanced Skincare Seminars with GMT TEC and Sally Durrant, The King’s Fund, London, www.sallydurant.com 27 Epionce® Users Meeting, Macdonald Hotel and Spa, Manchester, lucy@episcienceseurope.co.uk 27-29 Three Days Medical Masterclass Haywards Heath, www.finishingtouchesgroup.com 27-30 LCS Academy BTEC Aesthetic Laser/IPL Therapies, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 27-1 (October) VASER® Training, www.granthamlet.co.uk 27-1 (Oct) Nouveau Contour All Round Training in Permanent Cosmetics, Milton Keynes, www.nouveaubeautygroup.com 28 SkinBrands Training: Medik8, Scotland, www.Skinbrands.co.uk 28-29 SkinBrands Training: SkinCeuticals, London, www.Skinbrands.co.uk 29-30 SkinBrands Training: SkinCeuticals, Scotland, www.Skinbrands.co.uk 29-30 Sterex Electrolysis Advanced Cosmetic Procedures, Birmingham, training@sterex.com 30 SkinBrands Training: Susan Posnick and Revitalash, Scotland, www.Skinbrands.co.uk

OctOber

1 Epionce® Users Meeting, Royal Society Medicine, London lucy@episcienceseurope.co.uk 1 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Beginners Dermal Fillers, www.drbobkhanna.com 1 SkinBrands Training: SkinMedica, Scotland, www.Skinbrands.co.uk 1-5 Plastic Surgery, Canada 2 Boston Medical Group Revanesse and Redexis Dermal Fillers Training, www.boston-medical-group.co.uk 2 Wigmore Medical Training IMicrosclerotherapy, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 2 Aesthetox Academy Training Courses, Birmingham, www.aesthetox.co.uk 4 The Obagi Masterclass and Designer Blue Peel with Dr Fred Coville, Dublin, www.healthxchange.com/obagi-training 3 Finishing Touches One Day Colour Workshop, Haywards Heath, www.finishingtouchesgroup.com 4 Finishing Touches One Day Brow Workshop, Haywards Heath, www.finishingtouchesgroup.com 4 Wigmore Medical Training Sculptra, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 4-7 Finishing Touches Five Days Cosmetic Tattooing Diploma Course, Canterbury, www.finishingtouchesgroup.com 5 The Obagi Masterclass and Designer Blue Peel with Dr Fred Coville, Manchester, www.healthxchange.com/obagi-training 5 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Skincare Peels, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 5 LCS Academy Contraindications for Light Based Therapies, www.lcsacademy.co.uk

6 LCS Academy Laser/IPL Protection Supervisor Course, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 6 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Peel Training, www.drbobkhanna.com 6 The Obagi Masterclass and Designer Blue Peel with Dr Fred Coville, Birmingham, www.healthxchange.com/obagi-training 6-10 19th Congress of the EADV, Gothenburg, Sweden, www.eadvgothenburg2010.org/index.php 7 Mapperley Park Core of Knowledge, Nottingham, www.mapperleypark.co.uk 7 The Obagi Masterclass and Designer Blue Peel with Dr Fred Coville, London, www.healthxchange.com/obagi-training 9-10 Foundation Botox and Dermal Fillers, Birmingham, www.medicsdirect.com 10-11 Professional Beauty Manchester, www.professionalbeautymanchester.com 11-14 Mapperley Park Btec Laser and Light Based Hair Removal and photorejuvenation, www.mapperleypark.co.uk 11 Wigmore Medical Training CPR and Anaphylaxis - Update, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 11 Wigmore Medical Training Conceal and Camouflage Post Treatment, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 12 Introduction to Obagi with Shannon Lister, London, www.healthxchange.com/obagi-training 12 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Skincare Peels, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 12-13 LCS Academy BTEC Medical Laser/IPL Therapies, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 13 Obagi Blue Peel Half Day with Shannon Lister, London, www.healthxchange.com/obagi-training 13 Intraderm Basic Botulinum Toxin Course, Leicester, www.intraderm.com 14 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Botulinum Toxin Type A and Dermal Roller London, www.wigmoremedical.com 14 Intraderm Basic Dermal Filler Course, Leicester, www.intraderm.com 15 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Fillers, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 15-17 EMAA, Paris, www.euromedicom.com 16 British Association of Cosmetic Doctors Autumn Meeting, The Four Pillars Hotel, Cotswold Water Park, Gloucestershire www.cosmeticdoctors.co.uk 16 Foundation Botulinum Toxin and Dermal Filler Training, Cosmetic Courses National Training Centre, Buckinghamshire, www.cosmeticcourses.co.uk 16 Wigmore Medical Training Microsclerotherapy, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 16 Genuine Dermaroller™ Training, London, elizabeth@aestheticare.co.uk 16-17 Foundation Botox and Dermal Fillers, Manchester, www.medicsdirect.com 17 Finishing Touches One Day Lip Workshop, Haywards Heath, www.finishingtouchesgroup.com 18 Advanced Skincare Seminars with GMT TEC and Sally Durrant, Bristol TBA, www.sallydurant.com 18 Finishing Touches One Day Eyes Workshop, Haywards Heath, www.finishingtouchesgroup.com 19 Obagi Intermediate Course with Shannon Lister, Manchester, www.healthxchange.com/obagi-training 20 Introduction to Obagi with Shannon Lister, Birmingham, www.healthxchange.com/obagi-training 20 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Beginners Botulinum Toxin, www.drbobkhanna.com 20 Introduction to Skin and Laser Applications in conjunction with Manchester University, Lynton Clinic, Cheadle, www.lynton.co.uk 21 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Advanced Botulinum Toxin, www.drbobkhanna.com

• If you have any dates you would like to add to our Dates for the Diary section please e-mail vicky@ creativemedialtd.co.uk •

DIRECTORY ABC Laser Contact: Guy Gouldsmit T: 08451 707 788 E: info@a-b-c-uk.com W: www.abclasers.co.uk ABmE Tech Contact: David Leahy T: 01843 297110 E: david.leahy@abmetech.com W: www.abmetech.com Allergan Contact: Customer Service T: 01628 494444 W: www.juvedermultra.co.uk Barnes Roffe LLP Service: Chartered Accountants, Business and Tax Advisors Contact: Shen Yap T: 020 8988 6100 E: s.yap@barnesroffe.com W: www.barnesroffe.com Blue horizons marketing T: 01242 236600 E: info@bluehorizonsmarketing.co.uk W: www.bluehorizonsmarketing.co.uk Services: Websites, patient literature, referral literature, brand image, advertising, e-marketing and more.

Boston medical Group LTD Contact: Iveta Vinklerova T: 0207 727 1110 E: info@boston-medical-group.co.uk W: www.boston-medical-group.co.uk

Eden Aesthetics Contact: Anna Perry T: 01245 227 752 E: info@edenaesthetics.com W: www.edenaesthetics.com

my Cells/Scandinavian UST Ltd Contact: John Tucker T: +35361 312979 E: info@mycells.ie W: www.my-cells.net

Energist Contact: Andrew Snoddon T: 01792 798768 E: enquiries@energist-international.com W: www.energist-international.com

Polaris Lasers Contact: Neil Calder T: 01234841536 E: njc@polaris-laser.com W: www.polaris-laser.com

Ericson Laboratoire Contact: Mike Filapiuak T: +44 02076296269 E: mike@ericson-laboratoire.co.uk W: www.ericson-laboratoire.com Galderma Contact: Azzallure Sales Team T: 01923 208950 E: info.uk@galderma.com W: www.galderma.co.uk hamilton Fraser Contact: Wai Chan T: 0845 3106 300 E: cosmetic@hamiltonfraser.co.uk W: www.hamiltonfraser.co.uk health xchange Contact: Customer Service T: +44 1481 736832 E: orders@healthxchange.com W: www.healthxchange.com LCS Academy Contact: Dr Elizabeth Raymond Brown T: 0845 0037315 E: admin@lcsacademy.co.uk W: www.lcsacademy.co.uk

Candela Uk Ltd Contact: Ben Savigar-Jones T: +44 08455210698 E: alex@alexsilver.co.uk W: www.candelalaser.co.uk

Lynton Contact: Customer Services T: 0845 6121545 E: info@lynton.co.uk W: www.lynton.co.uk

Cordcourt Limited Service: Uniform Supplier Contact: Gina Unsworth T: 0161 724 6009 E: sales@cordcourt.co.uk W: www.cordcourt.co.uk

Lifestyle Aesthetics Contact: Sue Wales T: 0845 0701 782 E: info@lifestyleaestheics.com W: www.lifestyleaesthetics.com

Cosmedix Contact: Aysha Capion-Awward T: 0844 855 2499 E: info@cosmedix.com W: www.cosmedix.com Cosmetic Courses Contact: Morag Hague T: 0845 230 4110 E: info@cosmeticcourses.co.uk W: www.cosmeticcourses.co.uk Cutera (Europe) Contact: Deborah Mechaneck T: 07711954740 E: dmechaneck@curtera.com W: www.cutera.com E-Clinic Contact: Sara Mogford T: 01274 530 505 E: info@e-clinic.uk.com W: www.e-clinic.uk.com

mapperley Park Training www.mapperleypark.co.uk/training Email: training@mapperleypark.co.uk Tel: 01159 690 111 med-fx Contact: Faye Price T: 01376 532800 E: sales@medfx.co.uk W: www.medfx.co.uk medical Aesthetic Group Contact: David Gower T: 02380 676733 E: info@magroup.co.uk W: www.magroup.co.uk

Q-mED Contact: Customer Service T: 0207 796 3290 E: info.uk@q-med.com W: www.q-medpractitioner.com/uk RECOvA COmPRESSION GARmENTS Contact: Eva Sanchez-Smith E: eva.sanchez@recovapostsurgery.com W: www.recovapostsurgery.com T: 0207 000 1044 Sanofi Aventis Contact: Customer Service T: 01483 554 809 W: www.sanofi-aventis.co.uk Skin brands Contact: Tracey Beesley T: +44 (0) 2089978541 E: tracey@skinbrands.co.uk W: www.skinbrands.co.uk Skin Geeks Ltd Contact: Trishna Shah T: +44 (0)1865 338046 E: trishna@skingeeks.co.uk W: www.skingeeks.co.uk Specialist make-Up Services Ltd Contact: Mike Lawrence T: 0845 2302021 E: enquiries@permanent-makeup.com W: www.permanent-makeup.com Services: Permanent Make-Up Surface Imaging Solutions Contact: Nick Miedzianowski-Sinclair Telephone : +447774802409 E: nms@surfaceimaging.co.uk W: www.surfaceimaging.co.uk Service: Skin Analysis systems & services vaser Lipo/ Sound Surgical Technologies LLC Contacts: Simon Davies T: +44 (0) 7971 686114 E: SDavies@soundsurgical.com W: www.vaser.com Wealden Projects Contact: Kevin Dewhurst E: kevin@wealden projects.com W: www.wealdenprojects.com T: 01892 611552 M: 07969 697593

merz Aesthetics Contact: Merz Aesthetics Customer Services T: 0333 200 4140 E: info@merzaesthetics.co.uk

Wellness Trading Contacts: Adam Birtwistle T: 01746 718123 E: contact@wellnesstrading.co.uk W: www.wellnesstrading.co.uk

morning Star Surgical S.A. (Pty) Ltd Contact: Brian Nielsen T: +27 (82) 667 2506 E: brian@morningstar-medical.com W: www.morningstarsurgical.co.za

zanco models Contacts: Mr Ricky Zanco T: 08453076191 E: info@zancomodels.co.uk W: www.zancomodels.co.uk

For less than ÂŁ25 per month, you can list your company details here. For more information contact Hollie Dunwell 01268 754897/ hollie@creativemedialtd.co.uk 54

cosmeticnewsuk.com

For a natural youthful look

 Immediate correction of moderate to severe wrinkles  Feels soft and looks natural  Stimulates own collagen production  Lasts 12 months or longer in many patients  Back to normal activities in no time

Ask your physician for more information or go to www.radiesse.com

before

after 12 months

Courtesy: S. Bentkover, MD, Worcester, ME.

before

after 2 weeks

Courtesy: Mike Jasin, MD, Tampa, FL. Individual results may vary.

For more information, please contact Merz UK on 0333 200 4140 or send an e-mail to info@merzaesthetics.co.uk

cosmeticnewsuk.com

DCN-EU-0250

Many reasons to choose RadiesseTM dermal filler, the innovative injectable:

55

You know where to inject.

You know how much to inject.

You’re confident she’ll be happy.

• High levels of patient satisfaction1 • Four years2 experience in the UK with 900,000 treatments and 11 million3 procedures worldwide

Confidence with experience.

To order please call

0808 238 1500

Vistabel® (botulinum toxin type A) Abbreviated Prescribing Information Presentation: Botulinum toxin type A (from clostridium botulinum), 50 Allergan Units/vial.

Temporary improvement in the appearance of moderate to severe vertical lines between the eyebrows seen at frown, in adults <65 years, when the severity of these lines has an important psychological impact for the patient. Dosage and Administration: See Summary of Product Characteristics for full information. Do not inject into blood vessels. Doses of botulinum toxin are not interchangeable between products. Not recommended for patients <18 or >65 years.

Use for one patient treatment only during a single session. Reconstitute vial with 1.25ml of 0.9% preservative free sodium chloride for injection (4U/0.1ml). The recommended injection volume per muscle site is 0.1ml (4U). Five injection sites: 2 in each corrugator muscle and 1 in the procerus muscle: Total dose 20U. Contra-indications: Known hypersensitivity to any constituent. Myasthenia gravis, Eaton Lambert syndrome. Infection at proposed injection sites. Pregnancy or lactation. Warnings/Precautions: Use for one patient treatment only during a single session. Relevant anatomy and changes due to prior surgical procedures must be understood prior to administration. Product contains less than 1mmol sodium (23mg) per dose. Do not exceed recommended dosages and frequency of administration. Epinephrine (adrenaline) or any other anti-anaphylactic measures should be available. Very rare reports of adverse reactions possibly related to spread of toxin distant from site of injection. Therapeutic doses may cause exaggerated muscle weakness. Caution in patients with history of dysphagia and aspiration. Patients or caregivers should seek immediate medical care if swallowing, speech or respiratory disorders arise. Too frequent or excessive dosing can result in risk of antibody formation, which may lead to treatment failure. Caution in the presence of inflammation at the proposed injection site(s) or when excessive muscle weakness or atrophy is present. Caution when used in patients with amyotrophic lateral sclerosis or with peripheral neuromuscular disorders. Effects of administering different botulinum toxin stereotypes simultaneously, or within several months of each other, is unknown and may cause exacerbation of

excessive neuromuscular weakness. Interactions: Theoretically, the effect may be potentiated by aminoglycoside antibiotics or other drugs that interfere with neuromuscular transmission.

Adverse Effects: See Summary of Product Characteristics for full information on side effects. Based on controlled clinical trial data, the proportion of patients that would be expected to experience an adverse reaction after treatment is 23.5% (placebo: 19.2%). These adverse reactions may be related to treatment, injection technique or both. In general, reactions occur within the first few days following injection and are transient and of mild to moderate severity. Pain/burning/stinging, oedema and/or bruising may be associated with the injection.

Frequency By Indication: Defined as follows: Very Common (≥1/10), Common (≥1/100, <1/10), Uncommon (≥1/1,000, <1/100), Rare (≥1/10,000, <1/1,000), Very Rare (<1/10,000). Infections and infestations. Uncommon: Infection. Psychiatric disorders. Uncommon: Anxiety. Nervous system disorders. Common: Headache. Uncommon: Paresthesia, dizziness. Eye disorders.

Common: Eyelid ptosis. Uncommon: Blepharitis, eye pain, visual disturbance. Gastrointestinal disorders. Uncommon: Nausea, oral dryness. Skin and subcutaneous tissue disorders.

Common: Erythema, Uncommon: Skin tightness, oedema (face, eyelid, periorbital), photosensitivity reaction, pruritus, dry skin. Musculoskeletal and connective tissue disorders. Common: Localised muscle weakness, Uncommon: Muscle twitching. General disorders and administration site conditions. Common: Face pain, Uncommon: Flu syndrome, asthenia, fever. The following have been reported rarely for glabellar lines and other indications: Rash, urticaria, pruritus, erythema multiforme, psoriasiform eruption, anaphylactic reaction (angiodema, bronchospasm), alopecia, madarosis, tinnitus and hypoacousia. Adverse reactions possibly related to spread of toxin distant from injection site have been reported very rarely (muscle weakness, dysphagia, or aspiration pneumonia which can be fatal). Price: £85.00 per vial. Marketing Authorization Number: PL 05179/0010 Marketing Authorization Holder: Allergan Pharmaceuticals (Ireland) Ltd., Westport, Co. Mayo, Ireland. Legal Category: POM. Date of preparation: December 2008.

Adverse events should be reported. Reporting forms and information can be found at www.yellowcard.gov.uk Adverse events should also be reported to Allergan Ltd. UK_Medinfo@allergan.com or 01628 494026 1

Stotland MA, Kowalski JW, Ray BB, Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, Volume 120, October 2007; 5: 1386-1393. 2 UK launch April 2006. 3 Data on file, Allergan, Inc.; Safety Analysis.

UK/0596/2010 and Date of preparation: July 2010