Winter 2014 Issue

the

DISH always in good taste

COFFEE CREATIONS

The secrets of latte art told from seasoned baristas LALA’S NUTS

MADISON’S OWN

HUMBLE PIE A FAMILY AFFAIR

THEDISHMADISON.COM | W INTER 2014

WINE GUIDE FOR STUDENTS

THE DISH

University of Wisconsin-Madison’s student food magazine

TH E DI S H M A D I S O N . C O M

The Dish Madison

@thedishmadison

@thedishmadison

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cover photo: THE DISH | Front WINTER 2014taken at Colectivo by Andrea Knowles / Inside cover photo: taken at Merchant by Andrea Knowles

TABLE OF CONTENTS menu

no reservations

food for thought

03 A Peek Inside

17 Humble Pie

33 Farm-to-Table

04 The Dish Staff List

20 The Ivory Room

36 Underground Food Collective

05 Editor-in-Chief Letter

22 608

38 Instagram

in the kitchen

24 Bassett Street Brunch Club

39 Lala’s Nuts

Reckoned With

25 Cheese Scene

42 Latte Art

10 The Cranberry:

28 State Street

44 Wine Guide

12 Cinnamon Baked Apples

30 Brasserie V

46 Urban Gardening

07 A Holiday Treat to Be A Wisconsin Specialty

14 Making a Food Cart Favorite At Home

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editors

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Katie Van Dam

IN THE KITCHEN Sarah Dreifke

NO RESERVATIONS Jane Roberts

FOOD FOR THOUGHT Isabel Harner

COPY

Chapin Blanchard

LAYOUT

Andrea Knowles

MARKETING Taylor Laabs

L - R: Andrea Knowles, Sarah Dreifke, Chapin Blanchard, Isabel Harner, Katie Van Dam, Jane Roberts. Not pictured: Taylor Laabs

STAFF In the Kitchen Writers: Jennifer Dillon, Noelle Lebow, Chelsea Peters, Jenni Wolf No Reservations Writers: Meghan Horvath, Allie Johnson, Sam Smith, Colin Terwelp, Katie Unger, Lexie Winiecke, Sam Zipper Food for Thought Writers: Jen Anderson, Sarah Clifford, Mary Friedman, Elyse Guizzetti, Mary McCoy, Jane Milne, Jordan Peschek

Nathaniel Scharping, Alice Walker-Lampani Marketing Assistants: Josie Hopkins, Rachel Laseke, Katie Lawton, Jen Anderson Layout Assistants: Laken Stramara, Chelsea Bliefernicht Photographers: Bridget Ryan, Stephanie Kluz, Andrea Knowles Hungry Badger Cookbook: Mandy Ezell

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Dearest readers, When I first came to Wisconsin a little over two years ago, I fully admit that I didn’t have a solid understanding of Madison’s unique food culture. As a cheese-lover from Illinois, I was excited to experience everything that America’s Dairyland had to offer. Without hesitation, I began to explore. I ventured to Capitol Square, dragging my friends to restaurants like Cooper’s Tavern and Marigold Kitchen. I marveled at the cheese at Fromagination, and tried to make it to the Dane County Farmers’ Market every Saturday morning. Before long, I began to realize just how innovative, unique and delicious Madison’s culinary scene really is.

That’s why I was so excited to find that there was a food magazine on campus that tapped into all the different aspects of Madison’s food culture.

The Dish strives to celebrate Wisconsin’s roots while exposing our readers to the innovation that is so deeply ingrained in Madison’s culinary scene. I am constantly blown away at how much this city has to offer, and I am happy to say that I still have new restaurants to explore, new dishes to sample, and new perspectives to learn about.

In this issue of The Dish, we hope to bring light to some of the exceptional aspects of Madison’s food culture. While it can be easy to get stuck in a rut in the midst of winter blues, I encourage you to open your eyes to the hidden gems our beautiful city has to offer. Head off the beaten track to S. Allen St. and step inside Humble, where two sisters are pursuing their passion and cooking up delicious pies in the process. Learn about the growing Farm-toTable movement, and be proud of the fact that Madison is ahead of the curve when it comes to sustainable eating. Be inspired by the baristas at Colectivo who are able to make intricate latte designs that can brighten up even the darkest of winter days. We live in a city that is just waiting to be explored, and I hope The Dish inspires you to do just that.

Foodie Love,

KATIE VAN DAM Editor-In-Chief

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Dearest readers, “What good is the warmth of summer, without the cold of winter to give it sweetness?” – John Steinbeck The temperatures are dropping, the days get shorter; as winter rears its head outside we all find ourselves spending more and more time indoors.

But with winter also comes a fresh blanket of snow, frosted trees, twinkling lights and warm nights cozying by a fire. These special moments prove that even in the heart of these winter months, there is a certain beauty and “sweetness” to be found.

In this issue, we found the beauty of winter in the many great ingredients that call winter their own.

For those long winter months, nothing starts your day off better than a warm, comforting meal. Our baked oatmeal showcases fresh Wisconsin cranberries and other great, local ingredients – guaranteed to give you the perfect start to take on that winter cold. And while the brisk fall temps may chase away our local food carts and Farmers’ Market, that doesn’t mean you can’t still indulge in those great local treats. Whip together our sweet potato falafel when you’re craving your food cart favorite. And finally, you can sit back, relax and cozy up to the fire with our freshly baked pumpkin cookies or warm, cinnamon baked apples – providing the perfect comfort after a long winter day.

As the snow gets deeper and you lose sight of the summer months, just remember that winter has beauty too. We at In The Kitchen hope that you too will be able to showcase some of that beauty in your kitchen this winter.

Bon Appétit,

SARAH DREIFKE In the Kitchen Editor

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A HOLIDAY TREAT TO BE RECKONED WITH

By Jennifer Dillon

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s all good Midwesterns know, the best time of year is just around the corner. A time when all diets are off and all ovens are on. A time most commonly recognized by others as the holiday season. Personally, I find the start of the holiday season exciting for a number of reasons. The most important being that:

1. Holiday events encourage you to spend quality time with loved ones, giving thanks and enjoying each other’s company.

What more could you want from the holiday season, you ask? How about the robust flavor combination of a classic fall pumpkin pie with all the benefits of a chewy chocolate chip cookie? I’d argue the description alone deserves a celebration. Why not give it a try yourself this holiday season by combining the two to form the ultimate pumpkin chocolate chip cookie treats? If the name isn’t enticing enough for you, consider the fact that because this recipe doesn’t contain any eggs or any other animal byproduct and has an added health bonus of whole-wheat flour you can eat the cookie dough raw. Trust me, you will want to eat it. So don’t waste another minute. Start cooking and watch as a new holiday classic is born.

2. Most of those events revolve around the consumption of fresh baked goods.

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I’d argue the description alone deserves a celebration.

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Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Cookies 1 1/2 C 1/2 TSP 1/4 TSP 1/4 TSP 3/4 TSP 1/4 TSP 1/4 TSP 1/4 C

whole-wheat flour salt baking soda baking powder ground cinnamon ground nutmeg pumpkin pie spice coconut oil melted and cooled (any oil will do but coconut

1/4 C 1/2 C 1 TSP 3/4 C 3/4 C

adds some stellar flavor)

brown sugar granulated sugar vanilla extract
 pumpkin purÊe (not pumpkin pie filling) dark chocolate chips

1.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Throw some tin foil on your cookie sheet to make it an easy clean up later.

2.

In a bowl, bring together your whole-wheat flour, salt, baking soda, baking powder and spices.

3.

Mix the coconut oil and sugars together with the vanilla extract and pumpkin until combined in a separate bowl.

4.

Fuse the dry and wet ingredients together until dough forms. Stir in the everso important chocolate chips.

5.

Drop large, rounded tablespoons onto prepared baking sheet. Bake for 10-12 minutes or until cookies are slightly brown around the edges. Let cool for 5 minutes (if you can wait that long).

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THE CRANBERRY: A WISCONSIN SPECIALTY

By Jenni Wolf

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n Wisconsin, cranberries are a big deal.

However, most people think milk, cheese, beer and brats when they think about the foods famous to our state and often overlook this tart and tangy fruit. This is a mistake, as Wisconsin is the number one cranberry-producing state in the nation and produces over half of the world’s supply of this delicious and versatile berry. In fact, cranberries are the official state fruit and were first harvested in Wisconsin around 1860.

You can travel along The Historic Cranberry Highway, located in the central part of the state, to tour the berry bogs or gift shops. You can also check out one of the many local Cranberry Festivals held throughout the year, or visit the Wisconsin Cranberry Discovery Center located in Warrens, WI to explore and learn more about the history of the Wisconsin cranberry.

Cranberries can be purchased farm-fresh from local produce stands or at your favorite grocery store. They are sold in several different forms ranging from fresh, to frozen, to dried and can be enjoyed on their own or added to almost any recipe.

Popular uses for fresh and frozen berries include adding them to breads, muffins, scones and other baked goods, cooking them into a sweet jam or jelly, or using them to stew up a mean cranberry-sauce. Dried cranberries are often used to top off a dark, leafy green salad, combined with nuts, seeds and pretzels to make trail mix, or stirred into holiday stuffing. My favorite use of cranberries comes at breakfast. Specifically, Christmas-morning breakfast.

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Each Christmas morning, my siblings and I awake late and wander down the stairs, hungry from a late night of unwrapping presents. We get only a few stairs down before we are bombarded with the sweet smell of breakfast, spiced baked oatmeal, laced with fresh cranberries and pears and topped with crunchy sugared walnuts.

This easy and delicious dish showcases the tart and tangy flavor of fresh, local Wisconsin cranberries, and adds a festive twist to any breakfast or brunch spread. It serves well alongside crispy, thick-cut bacon and a nice tall glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. While a classic at Christmas in my house, this oatmeal is perfect for any special occasion, lazy morning, or any other time when you don’t want to spend a lot of time in the kitchen, as it can be prepared the night before and baked in the morning. Leftovers store easily in the fridge, for up to a week, and can be quickly reheated in the microwave with a splash of milk or cream. Whether it is on Christmas morning, during Sunday brunch, or just on a run-of-the-mill Tuesday, give Wisconsin’s finest berry a try by making this warm and scrumptious breakfast treat.

Spiced Cranberry Pear Baked Oatmeal

Warm, comforting baked oatmeal laced with fresh Wisconsin cranberries, diced Bartlett pears and Madison’s own Lala’s sugar n’ spice crunchy walnuts.

1 C fresh cranberries (may substitute with 1 cup frozen or dried cranberries) 2 ½ C old fashioned rolled oats ½ C Lala’s Sugar n’ Spice Walnuts*, chopped ½ C brown sugar 2 TSP baking powder 1 TSP salt 1 TSP cinnamon ¼ TSP ginger ¼ TSP cloves ¼ TSP nutmeg ¼ C melted butter 3 eggs 1 ½ C milk 1 large ripe pear, diced Optional: 2-3 TSP cream for drizzling on individual servings

Place cranberries, walnuts, oats and the rest of the dry ingredients in a large bowl and toss to combine. Pour melted butter over dry ingredients and stir lightly to coat. Add eggs and the milk and stir to combine. Stir in diced pears.

Spray an 8x8-inch pan with cooking spray. Pour the oatmeal mixture into the pan and cover with a lid or foil. Refrigerate overnight. In the morning, uncover the pan, stir and place in a cold oven. Bake at 350 degrees for 40-45 minutes or until set in the center. Let cool 5-10 minutes before serving.

Serves 6. *Lala’s Nuts is a local, small-batch food producer making spiced walnuts and pecans. These products can be purchased at Metcalfe’s Markets, Fromagination, Fresh Madison Market, Orange Tree Imports, Steve’s and various gift shops in the Madison area.

Recipe adapted from “Barefoot in The Kitchen and Green Kitchen Stories”

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CINNAMON BAKED APPLES

By Noelle Lebow

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ou ever been to Wisconsin?” asked Jack as he treaded in ice-cold water after the Titanic sank. “They have some of the coldest winters around.” Students at UW-Madison are quick to agree. Madison is known for its bitterly cold, snowy winters, and with the falling temperatures, the idea of curling up with a warm dessert becomes more appealing every day.

Unfortunately, being a full-time college student does not leave much free time for making grandma’s homemade recipes, including her decadent apple pie.

4 apples 4 TBSP brown sugar 1/4 TSP cinnamon 1 C white wine

Luckily, we busy college students have a quick and easy alternative of simply baking the entire apple. These sweet and cinnamony (which isn’t a word, but it should be) apples are an easy way to get your warm dessert fix, whether you’re cramming for finals or relaxing after a long day of holiday shopping.

1.

2.

In the beginning of fall, my family and I went on our traditional apple picking trip at Appleberry Farm in Cross Plains, Wisconsin.

Fortunately, apples keep for a long time in the fridge and I was able to whip up this dessert when the temperatures dropped below freezing later in the season.

The trickiest part of this recipe is carving out the core of the apple without piercing its skin (or your fingers). With that being said, this step still took less than two minutes on my first attempt. Next, I filled up the center of the apple with brown sugar, sprinkled some cinnamon (and nutmeg!) on top and poured some classy boxed, sweet white wine around the apple. Don’t forget to cover the dish with foil while it bakes to trap the moisture in. To be perfectly honest, I didn’t measure any of the ingredients, and the product still turned out wonderful. It’s impossible to mess this recipe up. The following recipe from EatingWell.com makes four servings, but I only made one. This treat is delicious on its own or with a scoop of vanilla ice cream on the side.

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3.

4.

5.

6.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Create a well in each apple by cutting out the stem and core. Leave the bottom of the apple intact. Try not to pierce the apple’s skin or the sugar might leak out of the apple.

Fill the apples with 1 tablespoon brown sugar and sprinkle with cinnamon.

Place the apples in an 8x8 inch dish.

Pour the white wine around the apples and cover with foil.

Bake for about 1 hour or until the apples are soft.

Let the apples cool before serving.

Original recipe from EatingWell; http://www.eatingwell.com

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MAKING A FOOD CART

FAVORITE AT HOME Story and Photos by Chelsea Peters

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he recent weather is making sure we understand, loud and clear, that winter will be upon us shortly. Along with winter comes hot chocolate, cozy sweaters and an abundance of soup. However, the cold and snowy weather also means no

more of those delicious food carts lining up on Library Mall, Capitol Square and other locations around campus. No smoothies, quick Pad Thai to go, or deep fried garlic pickles all throughout the long, cold months of winter. One of the most popular carts, Banzo, will no longer be there to serve up wraps and delicious falafel bites. What are we students supposed to do? We already have to trek through snow and sleet, and below freezing temperatures, to class everyday. Should we really have to miss out on some of our favorite foods too, simply because we may not be as skilled as those who run the food carts? This recipe is easy and offers you the ability to do a lot of variations with different spices – whatever you’re in the mood for. With sweet potatoes so cheap these days, and so easy to cook, there’s nothing holding you back from delicious homemade falafel.

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Sweet Potato Falafel 2 1½ 2 1½ 2

medium sweet potatoes (about 1.5 pounds) TSP ground cumin small cloves of garlic, chopped TSP ground coriander big handfuls of fresh cilantro/coriander, chopped juice of half a lemon scant cup of chickpea flour splash of olive oil sprinkling of sesame seeds salt and pepper to taste Preheat the oven to 425 degrees and roast sweet potatoes for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Or, pierce potatoes with a fork and put them in the microwave for 5 minutes, flip, and then another 5 minutes.

Allow the potatoes to cool, then peel off skin.

Put sweet potatoes, garlic, spices, lemon juice and flour in a large bowl.

Mash until smooth and entirely mixed.

Put in the fridge for about 1 hour or in the freezer for 20-30 minutes.

If they’re still quite wet after this, you can add a tablespoon of flour.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Using two spoons, or a falafel scoop (small melon-ballers work, too), form the mixture into bite-sized balls (as big or small as you’d like, though it will impact baking time if they’re quite small).

Sprinkle sesame seeds and/or sea salt on top, and bake about 15 minutes.

Watch them – they are done when the bottom is golden brown.

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My dear readers, Allow me to introduce myself.

My name is Jane Roberts and I am very excited to be writing the first of many letters as No Reservations Editor for The Dish.

I began my journey with The Dish last year and am proud to be leading my own group of talented writers as they share their favorite places with you.

In this issue, we’ve stayed true to our Wisconsin roots and showcased some of the best foodie-spots Madison has to offer.

With all of the restaurant closings on State Street, writer Meghan Horvath investigates what’s happening. She fills in the gaps about what’s gone for good, what’s being relocated and what’s coming next.

For all you cheese-lovers (and I’m sure there are a lot), Colin Terwelp guides you through a history of Wisconsin dairy before telling you where to get the best cheese plates in Madison.

Katie Unger brings a piece of the South up to the cold Midwest with her piece on Humble, a family owned pie shop on S. Allen Street.

Winter may be coming, but we hope this issue will inspire you to bundle up and venture out and discover some place new. .

JANE ROBERTS No Reservations Editor

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Humble PIE THE TASTIEST CORNER OF MADISON

BY KATIE UNGER / PHOTOS BY BRIDGET RYAN THE DISH | WINTER 2014

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“

A pie is just a humble thing.

It doesn’t have to be gorgeously puffed or perfect.

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”

P

icture two young sisters giggling in the kitchen together as they mix, stir, measure and taste. Their mother is gone at work and they are not allowed to use the oven. The solution?

Bake something really really good so she will only be mad until she tastes their delicious creation. It works. They keep baking and a lifelong hobby develops, eventually resulting in an adorable little Madison pie shop located on the corner of Regent and Allen Street: Humble.

Shelly and Jill grew up in the South, where sweet pies were a prominent part of their lives. Years later, both in Wisconsin, the two decided to open a pie shop to bring that southern tradition of delicious, made-from-scratch pies straight to the plates of hungry Madisonians. In Jan. 2013, Humble opened and Madison got a whole lot tastier.

“A pie is just a humble thing. It doesn’t have to be gorgeously puffed or perfect,” Jill said, explaining the name. “An ugly pie is still a beautiful pie.” There is truth to that statement, especially when pies taste this good, but these pies are far from ugly. Upon entering Humble, I had to stop myself from ordering every one of the unique and beautiful pies on display. Among the various sizes are the “pinch pies,” a perfect size for one hungry customer (or two, if you’re feeling generous, but after trying these pies you probably won’t want to share).

The sisters bake all the pies in the shop, filling the air with a deliciously tempting scent. Pie flavors vary from the ever-popular Blueberry and Door County Cherry to the unique Grape and Goat Cheese or the seasonal Bourbon Walnut. My personal favorites include the Hazelnut Fudge Poptart made with homemade Nutellalike filling and the White Cheddar Almond Cream with Monroe County Cranberry Streusel – a perfectly mouthwatering blend of cheese, almond and sweet local cranberries.

“We see something or get something on our mind and then we get inspired and say, ‘Let’s make a pie out of that!’” Shelly said, explaining that the sisters invent most of the flavors.

Another unique thing you will love about Humble is its effort to source ingredients locally. Many of the savory pies feature locally grown vegetables and local cheeses, and the fruit pies boast Monroe County cranberries, Door County cherries and other fresh local fruits. The sisters sell their own special blend of Just Coffee, a local fair-trade and organic coffee roaster, as well as WiscoPop, a new locally sourced soda sold by the cup. The shop’s sustainability efforts also go beyond just food and drink; all the pie pans are biodegradable, and all plastic ware is recyclable or compostable.

Pies are portable and easy to take on the go, but the cozy shop also offers a quiet study environment with free Wi-Fi and coffee for customers. Whether you need a new place to study, a quick but delicious meal for a busy evening, or you’re just craving something warm and sweet stop by Humble. I guarantee you will find a pie (or two or three) that suits your fancy for any occasion. You will leave Humble, as I did, carrying a treat to take home to your family and feeling inspired by two sisters who turned their hobby into a cozy little community pie shop.

“

An ugly pie is still a beautiful pie.

”

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IVORY KEY WITH A SWEET MELODY

By Lexie Winiecke / Photos by Andrea Knowles He did a lazy sway. . . .

He did a lazy sway. . . .

To the tune o’ those Weary Blues.

The crowd gathers with their drinks around the man.

With his ebony hands on each ivory key He made that poor piano moan with melody.

O Blues!

Hands swinging drinks back and forth move with the notes Swaying to and fro on his rickety stool He played that sad raggy tune like a musical fool.

T

he beat begins to pulsate through the crowd and everyone finds their way to the dance floor.

This is a piece taken from one of Langston Hughes’ most famous poems, “Weary Blues,” in honor of the Ivory Room Piano Bar on W. Mifflin St. A popular place to listen to live music while indulging in a cocktail or two, it is suggested that you arrive early to make sure you get a seat for the evening.

For those who like to venture out for a good time and don’t want the pressure of having to drink excessive amounts to accomplish such, this is the place for you. What captured my interest immediately was the energy of the crowd listening to the pianist. Many of us have had to sit through our siblings’ or relatives’ recitals and this is what we usually pull from our memory when a matter concerns instruments.

Even those who do not have an appreciation for music can appreciate a cool and relaxed atmosphere after a stressful day in the office or classroom.

Dueling piano nights, held Thursday through Saturday, are a big hit and get the place moving. It’s entertaining to listen to the notes coming from the guests during bar sing-a-long time and is sure to make anyone laugh.

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With this being said, I would not recommend this if you are looking for more of an intimate setting on a date, but drunken escapades are sure to make a group outing one to remember.

The fun atmosphere makes it easy to talk to just about anyone, which should be welcomed news for those who find it challenging initiating conversation.

Drinks are relatively reasonable with respect to the price and amount provided, but I would not agree to it being the main “crowdpleaser.” Drinks serve the purpose of helping you participate in group-sing-alongs and you realize you are just as off-key as the attractive guy in the corner, which if you play your cards right, is a built-in icebreaker.

Singing, dancing and a few drinks are bound to put anyone in an upbeat mood, pushing those stressful thoughts to the side and perhaps finding an amazing dancer or someone who becomes your best friend.

“

Being a firm believer in being open to opportunities: ladies, take a chance with someone new and let your hair down every once in a while. Men, don’t be afraid to show your quirky and crazy side, you’ll be surprised how many girls find it endearing.

”

Singing, dancing and a few drinks are bound to put anyone in a upbeat mood...

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608

RESTAURANT AND BAR Takes Over Old Paul’s Club Spot

By Sam Smith / Photo by Andrea Knowles

I

f you’ve recently tried to go out for a drink at Paul’s Club and have been wondering why the owners decided to get rid of the famed tree and change the name of the bar, then chances are you unknowingly walked into 608.

Opened in June, 608 occupies the original location of Paul’s Club, which has moved farther down State Street. The establishment is marketed as a Wisconsin-themed (hence the name, which is the area code of Madison) bar and restaurant, offering classic pub favorites like burgers, nachos and fish fries, as well as some higher quality restaurant fare, like paninis, salads and soups.

I decided to check out 608 with some friends on a Thursday night and was pleasantly surprised with my experience. I say surprised because the restaurant didn’t get the most flattering reviews upon opening.

Upon arrival, a hostess warmly greeted us and staff worked quickly to put tables together to accommodate us. The atmosphere of 608 was very comfortable – slightly dimmed lighting illuminated the wooden furniture and architecture, while music played softly in the background.

My favorite decorations were the multiple black and white portraits depicting different shots of State Street from decades past.

After taking a few minutes to check out the scenery, a grumble from my stomach told me it was time to check out the menu.

There were plenty of dishes to choose from, so it took us a while to sift through all the options.

I finally decided on the supreme nachos with ground beef as an appetizer to share and the ‘608’ burger, which includes bacon and an egg sunny side with a side of fries.

It wasn’t long before the nachos came out and I was very impressed. A variety of topics were mixed throughout the dish and there was more than enough to go around for our group of seven.

The wait for our main dishes was minimal and everything looked and smelled delicious. Everything about my burger was perfect – the patty cooked to the perfect temperature, the buttery, warm toasted bun, and thick crispy bacon. The egg yolk, once broken, complimented each of the flavors well, making me a little reminiscent of breakfast for dinner. My companions felt similar about their entrees, especially those who ordered burgers as well.

One friend wanted to make sure I recommend the beer cheese soup.

I was told, however, that the couscous salad contained too much couscous and not enough greens, and also lacked a variety of flavor. Another friend shared that while the Italian Panini was good, she has had paninis of similar quality for cheaper. I would say that the price overall was a little bit on the steep end, though nothing that is going to break your bank.

To sum it up, I would say that 608 is a great place to check out, especially if you’re looking for a great burger. With two large TVs and a three-fold beer and specialty drink menu (along with a black board full of daily drink specials), it would also be a fun destination for any sporting event.

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BREAKFAST FOR DINNER AT LAST Bassett Street Brunch Club Story and Photos by Meghan Horvath

W

hile the city of Madison is most certainly a metropolis of wonderfully eclectic restaurants, the town does lack in a certain category of cuisine—comfort-food.

Parmesan cheese and herbs, then topped with layers of bacon, arugula, grilled onions, a sunny-up egg, and a drizzle of hollandaise sauce.

The restaurants in this capital city either fit themselves into the delineation of trendy gastropub or divey burger joint, so when new foodie destination Bassett Street Brunch Club opened its doors at 444 W. Johnson on October 31, Madison locals rejoiced.

Similarly delicious is the Farmer’s Hash, which is composed of a medley of roasted sweet potatoes, Brussels sprouts and parsnips, all sautéed with onion and rosemary, topped with two eggs and served with a hefty side portion of rye toast. Cozy comfort-food at its best.

Serving up classy spoofs on traditional breakfast dishes and diner fare all day long, the Brunch Club adds an entirely new dimension to Madison late-night.

Craving Bananas Foster French Toast or Chicken & Biscuits alongside your usual cocktail? This place has you covered.

In terms of ambiance, the trendy embellishments of the restaurant merge to devise a conclusively atypical rendition of the conventional diner. Bassett Street Brunch incorporates the swank of black leather booths with a backing of wacky-colored upholstery. The pattern is bold and the contrast is striking, yet this sense of stylistic flair is a defining feature of the space, which distinguishes Bassett Street Brunch as an upscale repository for ardent breakfast enthusiasts.

The menu itself is laden with savory brunch options as well as more dessert-like breakfast concoctions, all of which are tantalizingly expressed with an aureate collection of delicious diction.

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The more sugary items on the menu were also dangerously tempting with alluring descriptions of lemon ricotta pancakes and an oatmeal crème brulée, not to mention the rotating assortment of doughnuts the shop bakes daily. Although the chocolate, sprinkled, and peanut butter Cap’n Crunch varieties were rather dense and lacking in flavor, there are still other varieties to try in the future.

As a whole, the addition of Bassett Street Brunch Club to Madison’s repertoire of food joints is an expertly calculated decision in that breakfast at all hours is now a secured option. While the prices are a tad unsympathetic in terms of college student budgets, the ingenuity of the menu items for the most part eradicates any pecuniary hesitation with dining here. Bassett Street Brunch Club’s variety of comfort-food offerings is sure to satisfy any appetite.

THE CHEESE SCENE IN THE Capital OF AMERICA’S DAIRYLAND

BY CO LIN TE RW E LP / P H OTO S B Y A N DR EA K N OWL E S THE DISH | WINTER 2014

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hen I told friends and family on the east coast that I was going to the University of Wisconsin, the typical reaction was, “Oh so you’re going to be a cheesehead.” To be honest, that didn’t mean much to me, as I knew next to nothing about Wisconsin’s cheese history. Fortunately my ignorance is behind me. If you find yourself in my younger self’s shoes, here are a few lessons in Cheeseology 101.

Wisconsin can thank nature for its title as “America’s Dairyland.”

During the last Ice Age, massive glaciers covered what is the present state, cutting and transforming the land. When the ice receded, what remained was rolling hills and farmland, ideal for agriculture.

European immigrants settling in the Midwest found this landscape to be similar to that of their homes and started growing wheat and various grains. However, these crops quickly drained the soil of its nutrients and intensified the damaging effects of erosion. As a result, farmers realized the hilly pasture landscape was ideal for grazing animals, so they shifted their focus towards dairy cattle and other livestock. With an abundance of milk from the rising cattle population, naturally the cheese industry took flight.

Today, Wisconsin holds nearly 11,000 dairy farms boasting a total of over 1.27 million cows. The milk from these cows goes on to produce approximately 2.8 billion pounds of cheese a year, 25 percent of domestic production.

So what is the cheese scene like in Madison then? Sure, cheese can be found in any basic grocery store, but if you’re looking for the good stuff, it’s the award winners that make Wisconsin king, there are a few select spots that deserve a visit.

An obvious one is the Farmers’ Market on the square. There are countless cheese vendors that offer stellar products and can provide in-depth information. However, since the market is currently closed for winter, we will discuss a few other options.

A great location is The Underground Butcher, located on 811 Willy St. They opened last November as a storefront for their charcuterie products, and slowly but surely, they have built a superb cheese list. Their selections come from all over the state and also include popular varieties from other parts of the country and even the globe. The staff was incredibly helpful and knowledgeable, answering all my questions and guiding me to find a cheese suitable to my palate. The Underground Butcher is definitely a must visit for any cheese enthusiast.

Saving the best for last, Fromagination on the Capitol Square (12 S. Carroll St. to be exact) is the Mecca of cheese shops here in Madison. You know it’s going to be great quality just from the name (frômage is cheese in French). Honestly, the store is what I envision when I think of a small local cheese shop in the heart of France. The staff is an invaluable source of knowledge, not only for taste, but also for information on pairings, cheese making and anything else cheese-related. The shop also offers superb accoutrements like crackers, meats, jams, wines, etc.

Recently starring on the cover of the magazine Gourmet Retailer, Fromagination is truly a special spot.

Next time you’re hosting a wine and cheese party or just want to try some of the best damn cheese you can find worldwide, these two shops are the top dogs here in Madison. *Statistics/history sourced from eatwisconsincheese.com Photos taken at Fromagination

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But if you’re looking for the good stuff, it’s the award winners that make Wisconsin king.

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NO R E S E RVATIO N S

STATE STREET:

IF IT AIN’T BROKE, DON’T FIX IT?

By Meghan Horvath / Photos by Andrea Knowles

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he beloved seven-block thoroughfare known as State Street has established itself as a truly dignified institution, capturing the essence of local flavor that defines Madison culture.

From the timeworn storefronts to the weather-beaten pavement, this cherished pedestrian walkway is host to a comprehensive assortment of ethnic restaurants and off-beat, bohemian boutiques. Despite the general level of contentment most Madison residents hold toward this city artery, Common Council recently approved proposals that argue for the redevelopment of what investors deem to be a dilapidated array of tired shops.

As the first restaurant in Madison to specialize principally in Turkish cuisine, Husnu’s has been a welcome presence on State Street for the past 34 years. Yet, due to the impending redevelopment, Saturday, October 26 marked Husnu’s last night. Husnu’s dishes have always been strictly authentic representations of the inherent fusion of Central Asian, Middle Eastern, and Balkan cuisines, all of which come to define Turkish culinary practice.

Largely integrating fragrant herbs and spices with an abundance of regional vegetables, the menu features equally healthy and delicious dishes all at a more than agreeable price point.

Demolishment plans have primarily been directed toward the 500 block of State Street, which is currently home to the wellrespected restaurants Husnu’s, Buraka and Kabul, among others.

Sadly, the displacement of these dining establishments is now an almost certain guarantee. In their place will be a graduated 12-story tower that will blend retail space and luxury apartment housing to create a modern-looking edifice presently deemed “The Hub.” While the structure will offer a practical alternative to the current status of the block, the project gives rise to conflict with current tenants, who will ultimately be uprooted by the 15-18 month long construction period. Roast Public House and AfghaniMediterranean eatery Kabul were both able to secure a new space adjacent to their prior locations at the former site of S2 PizzaBar and in the upper floor of Gino’s, respectively. Yet, two restaurant favorites—Husnu’s and Buraka—have been compelled to close their doors completely.

On Sunday October 27, just one day after Husnu’s final day, East African restaurant Buraka too closed the doors of their current State Street location after 20 years of serving the Madison community. Named after the owner’s great grandfather, Buraka inherently celebrates the Ethiopian tradition of acknowledging and honoring one’s family. This significance in meaning is even more so evident through the level of hospitality and quality of service that Buraka has provided over the years. The restaurant began as a crowd-pleasing food cart on Library Mall and over time expanded to have its own storefront that was first located off Capitol Square, before it made its way over to its current State Street location in 2000. Regardless of locale, Buraka is widely recognized for its authentic Ethiopian dishes comprised of rich blends of exotic spices, all of which deliver welcomingly unfamiliar flavor profiles.

While the affected restaurants are being offered space on the main level of the new “Hub” development, restaurant owners suspect that the inflated rental fees will be at such escalated levels as to be beyond reach, leaving owners and Madison locals questioning the future of these cherished institutions and of State Street at large.

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BRASSERIE V

by Allie Johnson

Photos provided by Brasserie V

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uxtaposition. This is the first word that came to my mind upon walking into Brasserie V, a restaurant on the outskirts of Madison’s downtown area. The restaurant offers its patrons international cuisine made with locally sourced products, an upscale venue with a casual atmosphere and intricate entrées paired with a simple side of fries, or in Brasserie V’s case, “frites.”

Brasserie V, nestled between specialty shops, cafés and community pharmacies, is self-described as “a little bit of Belgium in the heart of Monroe Street.” All of its menu items, including its wine and craft beers, are derived from European classics.

I entered Brasserie V with the intention of ordering one of their signature items, “moules et frites,” better known as mussels and fries, a dish Belgium is known for doing well. I am by no means an expert in mussels, so I brought along a friend of mine who has been to Belgium and has yet to find a restaurant whose mussels could rival those of Europe.

The mussels arrived in big aluminum bucket swimming in a warm garlic, wine and butter broth. Two different aioli sauces for dipping; red onion and Brasserie V’s classic sauce accompanied the mussels.

Despite the simple broth, I felt the mussels were flavorful enough on their own and rarely found myself using the aioli sauces. This was in part the work of the frites. Rather than being a simple side dish, the seasoned Belgium style double fried potatoes complemented and added to the flavor of the mussels. The salty frites drew out the saltwater taste of the mussels.

My friend deemed the mussels comparable to those she had tried in Belgian restaurants. Brasserie V lived up to its brand as a true European style restaurant.

I also sampled the V Burger, another popular menu item at Brasserie V. I was expecting a traditional hamburger with several additional toppings and little else. I was surprised to find the V Burger did not come on a typical hamburger bun, but was instead served with the beer battered fried onions, cheese, spinach and tomatoes sandwiched between two toasted pieces of bread. The meat of the burger came from the local Fountain Prairie Farm and struck the right balance of rich and juicy.

Food aside, Brasserie V was an ideal place to spend an evening out of the cold. Walking into the restaurant, I immediately fell in love with its warm, low-key atmosphere.

The restaurant was not obnoxiously loud or rambunctious, likely due to the lack of large party seating. Few of the tables in the venue could hold more than four guests and the majority of the seating was around the massive bar split between two rooms. Most patrons choose to sip their drinks and eat their meal at the bar, accompanied by one or two other people. Lit by strings of fairy lights and accented with red and yellow walls, the restaurant felt upscale but not uptight.

Several hours and several entrees later, I left Brasserie V feeling comfortable, full and as though I had come back from a quick trip across the Atlantic.

Well done Brasserie V, for satisfying my travel desires without making me leave the city I know and love.

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Dear readers, After my first summer staying in Madison, I am surprised to say I’ve grown to love it even more. I really didn’t know it was possible. Thankfully I had the time to explore and try new restaurants and recipes. However, as people get busier and the weather gets colder, it can be hard to get out and try that cool new restaurant or make it to the farmers’ market during a football game.

The Dish is the place to start if you want to try a new recipe, need a guide to the State St. restaurants, or want to learn a little more about what the Madison food culture has to offer. The Food for Thought section hopes to spark your interest in food and inspire you to think about it in a new way.

If you are new to the world of wine, Jane Milne gives you tips on what to buy, where to splurge and little tricks to keep in mind the next time you walk down the wine aisle in the grocery store. If you need a cup of coffee the morning after you utilize Milne’s guide to wine, don’t let the artwork in your latte go unnoticed.

I learned the ins and outs of latte art from baristas at Colectivo Coffee and found out how important the little-known art form can be.

Something else to keep an eye out for is a new line of delicious and original flavors of nuts known as Lala’s Nuts. Elyse Guizzetti sat down with Nicole Drives, the creator and owner of Lala’s Nuts, to talk about how she started her own business, her long-term goals and just how nutty she really is.

The Madison food culture is something special. Madisonians encounter the words “sustainable, “fair trade,” and “local” more than they can count, making it hard to keep up with the many food trends in our city. Alice Walker-Lampani investigates how sustainability practices are being carried out in Madison while Nathaniel Scharping looks into the benefits and challenges of urban gardening.

The Underground Food Collective shows another aspect to Madison’s unique food culture with its unique structure and innovative recipes. Jordan Peschek writes about the group and how they are contributing to the food scene in a different way. Enjoy your food for thought!

Chow,

ISABEL HARNER Food for Thought Editor

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THE GROWING

FARM-TO-TABLE MOVEMENT IN MADISON

by Alice Walker-Lampani

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O

rganic food used to be the hot button topic for restaurants.

“Green restaurants” communicated to diners that they were eating at a restaurant that was riding the organic train, that their building might have been energy efficient and that they abolished any and all processed foods from their plates.

As Madisonians, we know just how much our fair city has embraced green; our farmers’ market and healthy restaurants can speak to that. However, the quickly popular Farm-to-Table movement in Madison is taking green to the next level by not only promoting unprocessed and fresh food but also the promotion of restaurants using ingredients from local farmers right here in Wisconsin.

Sweeping the nation, the Farm-to-Table and Local Foods movement, known as the ‘locavore’ movement, refers to the steps being taken to increase relationships between local farmers and consumers.

The movement gained a voice powered by rise in concern for food safety and concern for freshness by both the public and chefs alike. When restaurants fight for the freshest produce to increase the quality of their food you can see the appeal of knowing their produce is coming from just a few miles away.

Madison has always been a large proponent of the organic and natural lifestyle, and residents especially benefit from the ‘locavore’ movement. As a state filled with farmland and small business farmers, supporting local farmers not only helps us lead a healthier life but also supports small town economies and independent businesses in the state.

Related to the Slow Food Movement and Fair Share CSA Coalition, Madison has a program called REAP Food Group that works to promote a sustainable local food system. REAP created the Buy Fresh Buy Local Program (BFBL) campaign that specifically works to create relationships between Madison chefs, local farmers and other food service providers. The goal is that the networks forged will provide economic benefits to all parties, giving the diners of Madison more opportunities to eat organic and sustainable food while operating to protect our region’s natural resources.

In exchange for promoting the business and food of locally farmed produce, participating restaurants are given consulting services (emphasizing long-term sustainable relationships that help both chef and farmer), advertising opportunities, outreach and education to diners and promotion of the business. Currently, 45 restaurants in Madison participate in the BFBL campaign, pledging to maintain that at least half of the business is locally owned, supporting Wisconsin farmers, and promoting a more sustainable regional food system (among others).

With 45 restaurants in Madison making that pledge, it’s clear that restaurants can join the ‘locavore’ movement by joining networking organizations such as REAP. However, we should remember that restaurant owners and those in the food service are first and foremost members of the community. According to an USDA poll ranking the 50 states by their ‘locavore’ rating (gauging how much the community cares about getting their food from local sources), Wisconsin rose from 15 to 9 in the last year. With its many social groups supporting local food, should you or a restaurant look to join the movement, the ‘locavore’ program is easily within reach.

A link to restaurants participating in BFLF: http://www.reapfoodgroup.org/buy-fresh-buy-local-campaign/buy-freshbuy-local-partners

Photos by Andrea Knowles

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Underground Food Collective

A unique experience for the cook and client

Story by Jordan Peschek / Photos provided by @UndergroundFoodCollective

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“

This is no ordinary organization. There is no head chef; each member contributes his or her own integral ideas into their creations. The UFC is ‘more than just recipes; it’s about how food is experienced and enjoyed.

F

uel for our bodies and flavor for our world, it is no surprise that humans have a hunger for food. The exploration, experimentation and experiences that factor into our food fetish are limitless. Restaurants, grocery stores and markets are all too common ways in which we acquire our daily dose of food, but Madison is home to an organization that breaks from the food acquisition norm.

The Underground Food Collective consists of six people who work together to create unparalleled food experiences by utilizing their collection of knowledge from experience and training all over the world, as well as substantial community support. The Collective is also built upon the continued support of friends, family members and partners. This is no ordinary organization. There is no head chef; each member contributes his or her own integral ideas into their creations. The UFC is “more than just recipes; it’s about how food is experienced and enjoyed.”

”

The Underground Food Collective has catered events from $200 to $20,000, producing an array of hand-crafted and cured meats, serving food at the Dane County Farmers’ Market, and offering reservations for special events and dinners throughout the year.

No matter what one’s food preferences may be, the Underground Food Collective offers Madison and its surrounding community some of the most unique and extraordinary food experiences around. Rather than stick to a set list of menu items, the UFC creates an unending variety of meals that vary with the season and with the interests of the people to which they cater. The Collective prides itself on tailoring its service to the customers with questions such as, “what is available this time of year?” or by asking a client to describe a meal they have really enjoyed. This approach fosters enjoyment and passion towards each dining experience for both the UFC and for its clientele.

If you are in the Madison area and find yourself itching for an unsurpassable food experience, head to the Underground Butchery on Williamson Street, the Forequarter Kitchen and bar on E. Johnson, or visit the UFC’s website at undergroundfoodcollective.org to fully explore their offerings. The members of the UFC continue to draw on their unique combination of expertise, training and innovative ideas to create unique food experiences from the ground up, and their mission is to provide an unforgettable experience for you.

Left: Our very own Colin Terwelp spotted on the job at the Collective’s new Underground Butcher on Williamson St. Catch Colin’s article on page 25.

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Lala’s Nuts GETTING A LITTLE NUTTY WITH NICOLE DRIVES

Story by Elyse Guizzetti / Photos provided by Nicole Drives

N

icole Drives looks like your average, completely sane Madisonian with her cute scarf and go-getter attitude, but it turns out she’s a little nutty. Nutty, that is, because there’s a good chance she spent upwards of 90 hours of the preceding week working on the small business she owns, Lala’s Nuts. A graduate of the dietetics program at UW in 2011, Nicole had a passion for food and a readiness to be her own boss fresh out of college. While most graduates worry about resumés and internships, Nicole kept thinking about her grandma’s spiced pecans.

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“

This idea of grandma’s pecans kept coming back into my mind. The more and more I researched it, the more I realized that’s where my passion was.

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”

EG: Where did you get the idea for Lala’s Nuts?

Nicole: It was my grandmother’s recipe, and I call her Lala, so that’s where the name comes from. She has been making this for decades, the sugar and spice pecans. A lot of my memories are around food and family and in the kitchen, and we would always make this together around the holidays. People would always tell her to package it and sell it, but she never got around to doing it. But it’s been in the back of my mind since I was little. [After graduating], this idea of grandma’s pecans kept coming back into my mind. The more and more I researched it, the more I realized that’s where my passion was. It was just something that I had to pursue. I just went for it, and I started selling last fall.

EG: Were you surprised at how many details actually go into owning your own business?

Nicole: Yes, there are a lot of details. You have this passion of cooking and wanting to just get your product out there, but there is so much behind the scenes on the business side of things.

EG: I read somewhere that you work over ninety hours a week.

Is that still true?

Nicole: It is, especially around the holidays! The holiday season is just insane -- seven days a week, early morning to late night. It’s a lot, but I love what I do, so it doesn’t seem like that.

EG: You essentially do the entire production process yourself.

What does a typical day look like for you?

Nicole: My goal is really to become a national brand and to get more products out there, to kind of be known as the high-quality gourmet nut product. I’d love to have more flavors and more types of nuts as well. I see myself coming out with more savory and salty flavors. I’d really like to have a whole line of products that really caters to everyone’s likes.

It’s exciting. I’m really proud of starting it and I get that a lot that people are surprised by my age and starting a business. So I’m really proud of what it’s become, and I am excited to see where it will go in the future.

EG: What would you say to current UW students about opening their own businesses?

Nicole: Starting a business is a great option, and you can kind of do exactly what you want to do. Just take your passion and go!

EG: This is The Dish, after all. Do you have a favorite recipe that incorporates your nuts?

Nicole: I love just putting them on top of salads. I always make those for Thanksgiving with the spiced pecans and cranberries and sliced apples with a poppyseed dressing. I love pairing them with cheese. The bourbon goes well with a nice smoked gouda.

Warm brie around the holidays, paired with the bourbon pecans, is delicious. People like putting them on top of ice cream and sweet potatoes for the holidays as well. I like using them as a topping, but I get a lot of people that say they like eating them just straight out of the bag.

Nicole: My typical day is that I go in the morning around seven to eight o’clock and I’ll produce in the morning, have lunch, and then come back and package. In a day I can do up to 200 [bags], but that’s a long, long day.

EG: Alright, I can’t let you go without asking one final question: Just how nutty are you?

EG: What would you say is your favorite part of owning a business?

Students can find Lala’s Nuts products at Fresh Madison Market, Metcalfe’s, Steve’s on University, and Fromagination on Captial Square. All of Nicole’s products can also be ordered online at her website: www.lalasnuts.com. Look for two new flavors in January!

Nicole: I love being in the kitchen, obviously -- that’s why I wanted to start this. But I also love doing events, like holiday markets.

Just seeing people try my product for the first time and get really excited about it.

Nicole: Not as nutty as my grandma Lala.

EG: Where do you see the company going in the next five years?

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LATTE ART: THE Cherry ON TOP B Y ISAB E L HAR N E R / P H OTO S B Y A N DR EA K N OWL E S

“

You can make a good latte without the art, but you can’t make latte art out of a bad latte.

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@TheDishMadison

I

t’s safe to say that latte art rarely goes unnoticed. A fancy design in your coffee will almost surely make it onto Instagram and is basically the only reason we ever want a drink “for here.”

However, people know just how much work goes into even the most simple of a design.

I walked in to Colectivo Coffee, located at 25 South Pickney St. on Capitol Square, for an afternoon pick-me-up and walked out with a newfound knowledge and appreciation of latte art. Sitting down with baristas Ben Freeman and Tess Keegan, I learned the ins and outs of latte art and how it is more important than some might think.

Keegan described latte art as “a precise method of pouring steamed milk into fresh espresso as to make aesthetically pleasing designs.” My honey latte had a “rosetta” design in it, which is only one of the many designs and variations that one could encounter.

Going about making a design is a complex process. Starting with fresh espresso already in the cup, the right amount of steamed milk is poured smoothly into the middle to form a “monk’s head,” which is a circle of milk and the base of most latte designs. From there the barista can use different techniques such as swiveling their wrist and pulling the milk through the monk’s head in different ways to create various designs.

There are many aspects that effect the execution of the design.

The amount of foam in the steamed milk is crucial to a good design.

If there is too much foam the design won’t surface because the foam makes the liquid too chucky to form precise lines. If there is not enough foam and the liquid it too thin and watery, the design will not hold because the lack of texture makes it hard for the design to stand out. Skim and soy milk, which are by nature low in fat content, pose challenges because they are thinner and harder to work with than whole milk.

When executed correctly, latte art is satisfying both for the barista and for the lucky person that gets a beautiful design in their drink. Keegan said it is satisfying to gain the skills to make a good design and to make someone feel special about getting a drink that is made especially for them.

Good latte art is more than just a testament to the baristas skill and creativity. “Part of latte art is the aesthetic, but it is also to show that the espresso and milk are perfectly mixed”, said Keegan. It shows that the drink is truly well-crafted. Freeman said that “a latte with art on top is indicative of a latte that is well made. You can make a good latte without the art, but you can’t make latte art out of a bad latte.”

Finding even a simple design in your coffee is a great surprise, but knowing that the design indicates a drink made with fresh espresso, perfectly steamed milk with the right amount of foam, and the special touch of a barista taking the time to make a drink that both tastes and looks great makes a good drink just that much more enjoyable.

Latte art is the cherry-on-top of a hand-crafted drink. Freeman said, “Making a good coffee beverage is a multi-sensory experience.

You obviously have, at the most basic level, the flavors in the coffee and the milk but then there are more subtle aspects like the smells, or even the feel of the temperature or the texture of the creamy milk. So adding art to the drink is just another aspect of the overall aesthetic experience.”

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A STUDENT’S GUIDE TO

Wine

STORY B Y JAN E M ILN E / P H OTO S B Y A L I C E WA L K ER - L A MPANI

F

or the typical college student, walking into the wine section of a liquor store can often induce the same daunting sense of anxiety and panic as entering an exam. Gaining the knowledge to buy the perfect bottle of wine could constitute the need for a class in itself, but since most students are already swamped with their regular course load, here is a beginner’s guide to selecting the perfect bottle of wine.

When purchasing wine, it helps to understand the different varieties of wine. Square Wine Company is located at 5 North Pinckney St. on Capitol Square and focuses on selling wines from small, family growers. The founder of Square Wine Company, Andrea Hillsey, is a sommelier that shared some helpful facts with readers about the different varieties of wine, which ones to splurge on and where it’s okay to skimp.

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For students looking to save money, Hillsey recommends looking beyond the more well-recognized and popular varieties. Wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Malbec are better recognized by customers and therefore sell more.

“The secret to getting great values at the under $15 price point is to be open to off the beaten path varietals,” Hillsey said. “Our two best-selling wines are two Macedonian wines made from varietals that nobody has ever heard of, that’s why they are so reasonably priced at $10-$11.”

“

”

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Champagne are varieties of wine with which one should not skimp while buying.

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Champagne are varieties of wine with which one should not skimp while buying.

Pinot Noir is a red wine that takes great amounts of care from both the vineyard and winery during production. Because of this, try to avoid inexpensive bottles of Pinot Noir. They are usually adulterated with additives or Syrah to enhance its natural flavor. A good bottle of Pinot Noir will typically cost $20 or more.

Chardonnay is made from white grapes and often aged in oak barrels. The oak barrels that wine is aged in are where the term “oaky” is derived from. Most wine develops its oaky flavor from the fermentation period in oak barrels. The longer the wine spends in the barrel, the more complex the flavor becomes.

“Oak barrels used in the wine world are not cheap, $500-$1000 per,” Hillsey said. “So, it’s counterintuitive to think you can find quality, inexpensive oaked Chardonnay.”

Inexpensive chardonnay with an oaky taste is usually altered with an oak powder or other additives. For quality, oaky chardonnay, look to pay over $15.

Champagne is from the Champagne region of France and goes through an extensive, process of production with many steps.

Champagne from a small grower in Champagne, France will start around $40 a bottle.

Students who want a better understanding of where their wine is from, what goes into it or just general wine trends should make a visit to Square Wine Company.

“If you care about what you put in your body you should check us out. Did you know that domestically, you can put over 200 additives into a bottle of wine without having to put any of it on the label?” Hillsey said.

Square Wine Company holds wine tastings every Friday from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. Hillsey said these tastings are not only educational but also a social event.

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URBAN GARDENS

by Nathaniel Scharping

Pyle Center Urban Garden, Photos provided by F.H. King: Students for Sustainable Agriculture

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he roof of the Pyle Center is home to an odd sight. Beds of green trellises of flowering vines and colorful flowers sprout in the middle of the city. This is the rooftop garden operated by F.H. King, a student organization here on campus dedicated to raising awareness about sustainable agriculture and food practices.

F.H. King took over the garden in 2012 and has expanded it from the original four beds to include four swimming pools full of produce and another eight raised beds on the ground floor, according to Tom Boyden, the director of F.H. King.

The garden was originally meant to add beauty to a bare space for events at the Pyle Center, but F.H. King has combined atmosphere with practicality and has used the garden to add to their growing power.

The rooftop garden is home to a variety of crops, from root vegetables such as beets and carrots to peppers, gourds and herbs. Integrated into the space are flowers and perennial trees, there to increase the aesthetics of the space for events at the Pyle Center.

Boyden said that they get 70-75 pounds of produce every month from the garden during the growing season. The majority of the produce is either donated or given away at their weekly Harvest Handouts, he said.

Rooftop gardening allows urban farmers to take a space usually forgotten about in the city and produce local, organic food. Rooftop gardens make very efficient use of a small space, according to Boyden, and possess benefits for the buildings they are situated atop as well. The gardens control runoff from the buildings and act as a natural insulator in both the summer and winter.

Growing food on top of a building creates unique challenges as well, according to Boyden. The loading capacity of the roof is a major consideration. Rooftop gardens are also more exposed than ground-level gardens and receive much more heat as a result. This means that daily watering and attention is required.

The first year was a learning process for the organization, according to Boyden. They were forced to find creative ways to make the garden work, such as installing panels to reflect the heat and growing heat-tolerant plants such as root vegetables.

With these problems solved, however, their rooftop garden produces a bounty of produce in a small urban area. Rooftop gardens are springing up around the country as environmentally conscious urbanites look for creative ways to bring the country into the city.

Interested in becoming an urban farmer? Boyden stressed the flexibility of urban gardening, saying that you can do it even if you think you have no room. Spaces as small as a stoop or a windowsill can host a small garden, he said.

“

Rooftop gardening allows urban farmers to take a space usually forgotten about in the city and produce local, organic food.

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GET INVOLVED Visit our website for recipe & restaurant reviews, cooking tips & tricks, budget recipes, articles on the Madison food scene and more!

THEDISHMADISON.COM We are always looking for new students to join our staff. All writers will meet with section editors to brainstorm article ideas, develop story angles, and go over food writing tips.

We also have committees for marketing, photography, web-design, and layout.

EMAIL: THEDISH.WUDPUBLICATIONS@GMAIL.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION. THE DISH | WINTER 2014