North Adams

Downtown North Adams.

MASS MoCA looms large in the smallest city in Massachusetts, drawing more than 160,000 people annually, and making North Adams a premier cultural destination. It was not always so. North Adams was built on manufacturing: Shoes, bricks, hats, cloth, and marble poured forth from busy factories until the Depression. Recovery came in 1999, when the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art was born, in an idle factory space. In 2017, the already vast museum doubled its exhibit space, becoming the largest institution of its kind in the world. It also sparked other enterprising folks to create businesses to meet all those visitors.

EAT/DRINK The MASS MoCA campus has its own eateries, including Lickety Split Café, A-OK Berkshire Barbecue, Chingón Taco Truck, and Bright Ideas Brewery, which spotlights locally malted grains and hops. Door Prize also hosts pop-ups at MASS MoCA while looking for permanent digs. Other options are within walking distance of the museum: Brew Ha Ha (the town’s resident coffee shop); Renee’s Diner (for homestyle breakfast and lunch fare); PUBLIC (farm-fresh takes on American classics); Capitol (upscale comfort food); Grazie (Italian); and Ramunto’s Pizza (for delivery and takeout). Pub fare is on tap at Mohawk Tavern and Freight Yard Pub, Mexican food at Tres Niños Taqueria; Desperado’s. Jack’s Hot Dog Stand has been grilling dawgs since 1917.

Another factory facelift, Greylock WORKS inhabits a sprawling cotton-spinning mill, providing food production and retail space to local makers, including Berkshire Cider Project (hard cider) and The Distillery (small-batch gin and rum). At The Break Room, notable chef Brian Alberg celebrates farm-sourced food all day long at communal tables, where you can soak up the industrial vibe. Farther afield, The Trail House Kitchen & Bar lies on Route 2 towards Williamstown, Bounti-Fare Restaurant heading south towards Adams. SHOP Downtown North Adams is a delightful mash-up of shops and galleries for all ages. Persnickety Toys and Berkshire Emporium & Antiques are local favorites. The Bear and Bee is a new independent bookstore. A group of 40 local artists is behind Common Folk Artist Collective (check the website for updated opening hours).

West of downtown, the former Norad Mill (a former textile factory) is home to Tunnel City Coffee, a local roastery (with a café at MASS MoCA). Freia Yarns, producer of hand-dyed yarns, relocated here from California; the Spinoff Yarn Shop is worth a trip to the third floor. Belltower Records stocks an eclectic selection of new and used LPs, CDs, and stereo equipment. Norad Mill Toy & Candy Shop offers a glimpse of the good old days.

SEE The town’s vibrant Cultural District is of course anchored by MASS MoCA, which hosts temporary and permanent exhibits in its labyrinthine galleries and musical performances in its indoor venues and 19th-century courtyard. The campus also hosts artist residency studio spaces and galleries, including Ferrin Contemporary and CYNTHIA-REEVES.

Keep your eyes peeled for colorful murals by local and visiting artists from as far as Mexico and Egypt and interactive public installations, such as Victoria Palermo’s bus shelter and Kathline Carr’s parklet as well as businesses like outside gallery and Martha Flood Designs. Much of this work is spearheaded by the Massachusetts College of Liberal Arts (MCLA), a distinguished liberal arts college not far from town. Besides running Gallery 51, the college facilitates DownStreet Art, a summer-long program of visual and performing art events, pop-up businesses, and family-friendly activities. The Berkshire Art Museum, North Adams Public Library, and North Adams Museum of History and Science lend cultural and historical heft.

STAY Porches Inn inhabits an entire block of oncedilapidated Victorian rowhouses, with generous porches (hence the name) offering views of MASS MoCA across the street. The Inn recently opened Studio 9, a stunning, state-of-the-art private performance venue and recording studio on the grounds.

Rustic meets sleek at TOURISTS, located in a former motel on 80 lush acres that’s home to woodland trails, riverbank vistas, and sculptural installations (there’s also a pool). Breakfast and snacks are available to guests, but anyone is welcome to dine at Airport Rooms, the onsite restaurant, which serves “tasty suppers, natural wines, and stiff drinks” (reservations recommended).

Blackinton Manor is an 1832 Italianate home in the historic Blackinton neighborhood (halfway between downtown North Adams and Williamstown) with five spacious guest rooms. (Or you can rent the entire shebang through Airbnb.)

Camping is a thing here, especially during festivals. The Historic Valley Campground on Windsor Lake offers 100 sites for your RV, camper, or tent.