continued from page 28 that are comfortable and fun.” Neuls doesn’t see this “comfort addiction” waning, but she believes that the sneaker will eventually morph into new areas of footwear. “The pendulum will swing back toward dress shoes at some point, but overall the future is casual,” echoes Florsheim designer Brody Tierney. BROWN SHOE BLUES Is the sneaker takeover good for the overall footwear business? “Sure, if you work in the athletic industry,” quips Latigo designer Naomi Reid. “I don’t think it’s so great for brown shoe people.” Unlike the majority of brands hopping on the athleisure bandwagon, Reid chose not to make a sneaker for Latigo’s Spring ’17 collection. “I feel like the girl buying my shoes takes risks. If she’s buying sneakers, she wants Saucony or Vans,” Reid says. Powell says it’s a tight grouping of manufacturers controlling the athletic sphere. “There are only a handful of brands that are in the space, so they control how much product is made and sold,” he offers. Where does that leave a brown shoe player? Reid suggests collaborations and stresses the importance of comfort features. Neuls, on the other hand, believes unique takes on the typical “sneaker” is the answer. “We combine the idea of a rubber sole with tradition and sculpture,” she says. “Comfort is the under-pinning trend on why trainers are so popular. It is our job to offer individuality, good design and uniqueness.” She’s not alone. Many other brands are putting bets on the sneaker/dress hybrid. Florsheim, for example, is rolling out athleticbottomed dress shoes for spring. Tierney says that although the sneaker dominance makes things tougher for primarily brown shoe companies, it’s a good design influence overall. “There will always be a need for the more classic dress shoe, but making it feel like a sneaker will help,” he says, adding that the trend is pushing non-sneaker categories to evolve designs in new constructions and materials. For example, Vincent says Jack Threads is incorporating hybrid athletic design elements into its boot line by using athletic outsoles. “Our consumer wants versatility,” he says. Schwartz cites Ecco and Samuel Hubbard as brands with strong fusion styles of late. It’s important to point out as well that not every consumer wants to, say, rock sneakers with a suit or cute dress—or can pull it off. “If you’re 18 and wear a little dress with sneakers, it looks really cute,” Reid offers. “But can I wear it?” Meaghan Lawson, Coolway USA marketing manager, feels the same way. “I would never wear a tennis shoe out and about, but I would wear a more casual, contemporary version,” she offers. To satisfy both demographics, Coolway is making a push toward performance-styled athletic shoes in its junior-targeted line, while its higher-end brand, Musse & Cloud, is focusing on soft, comfortable leathers featuring athletic touches like perforated leather and rubber outsoles.
LIKE BROWN SHOE BRANDS, NON-ATHLETIC RETAILERS HAVE TO LEARN HOW TO ADAPT IN A SNEAKER-CRAZED CLIMATE.
S EL L I N G S PO RTST Y LE Like brown shoe brands, non-athletic based retailers have to learn how to adapt in a sneaker-crazed climate. Schwartz, who saw the decline of the dress shoe coming, says a tighter style selection and simpler, more versatile trends
are the keys to survival. He’s seen success with athletic-inspired shoes focusing on durability and comfort, and adds that the popularity of fresh styles has been a godsend. Currently, athletic footwear accounts for at least 15 percent of Eneslow’s business. “Any sit-and-fit brick-and-mortar store better have a substantial athletic department,” he says. Otherwise, waiting for replenishment purchases can be tough: “The basic men’s shoe will work for five to 10 years. And if you’re not in a walking city like New York, it can last a lifetime.” Powell agrees that athletic shoes and hybrid styles can help bridge the gap for non-athletic based retailers. “If I’m a comfort shoe store owner, I’m going to make sure my assortment is lightweight with more casual footwear,” he says. He cites Cole Haan as a brand that’s doing a nice job on the dress-upper-meets-athletic-outsole look. Of course, old-fashioned customer service is another way these retailers can remain relevant up against the likes of Foot Locker and Finish Line. Even the sneakerhead cares about customer service. Sirico says that when employees build a meaningful relationship with their customers, that’s when it becomes their go-to boutique. “That’s better than a store where they just want your credit card,” he says. Bodega’s Mak emphasizes the same attention to customer service. “You have to make people understand why a brand is important through presentation and education,” he says, adding, “And you have to change aesthetics with the aesthetics of the time to remain relevant.” For the foreseeable future, that relevancy rests in sneaker style. •