Dudley’s on Short

Written byBridget Williams / Photography by Eric Williams

Looking fresh-faced and fashion-forward, Debbie Long buzzes from table to table in the dining room of her four-month-old establishment and chats up customers with the familiar ease of a seasoned restaurant veteran. Watching her work, it is not hard to imagine the secret of her success: sweat equity. The proprietress of Dudley’s on Short, a reincarnation of the original Dudley’s Restaurant that operated in historic Dudley’s Square as a beloved fixture on the Lexington dining scene for 28 years, Long’s enthusiasm for her enviable new location at Cheapside Park is absolutely infectious.

Surveying the bustling scene early on a recent Friday evening, it was easy to discern among a clientele that runs the gamut – from 20-something’s to ladies who politely decline to discuss numbers – that all were clearly enjoying the convivial atmosphere, expertly prepared food and attentive service. Getting to this point involved a great deal of vision and a little help from her friends.

Eight-foot ceilings, dark cubicle-lined corridors, and a total lack of character greeted Long on her first visit to the Northern Bank Building, which was built in 1889 and marks the beginning of Market Street. Before moving forward, Long called on interior designer (and next-door neighbor) Matthew Carter to lend his honest opinion. “When he said it was doable, I moved forward,” she said. Working with a group of four investors, Long purchased the building and collaborated with Carter to strip out years and years of patchwork modifications done as the building’s use changed over the years. The result of Carter’s impeccable design sense and Long’s practical knowledge of how the ideal restaurant should flow and function is a venue that exceeds Long’s exacting standards.

Inside, the bustling vibrancy of the airy bar and dining room, with its cream-colored walls lined with an array of horse racing photographs (a carryover from the original Dudley’s), gives way to the cocooned intimacy of a second dining room distinguished by lacquered wallpaper that calls to mind a glass of merlot. Perfectly suited to the historic building are reclaimed antique wood floors from Longwood Antique Woods found in each distinct space.

A stunning panoramic wall mural in muted tones created by artist Kim Comstock is the focal point of two spacious private dining rooms located on the second floor, which can cumulatively accommodate 60 guests. A second bar is located on this floor, making the space perfect for business luncheons and dinners, rehearsal dinners, cocktail parties, lectures, and holiday parties.

The same no-nonsense approach applied to the interior design was also lent to the menu.

“I wanted the menu to be simple and fresh, using the best ingredients, local whenever we can,” said Long.

She categorizes the menu as distinctly American, meaning that subtle and varied global flavors permeate aspects of the offerings.

As promised, each selection was beautifully presented and simply dressed, which means that you will not find any subpar ingredients masked by rich sauces and dressings.

“When things are cooked right and seasoned properly, quality ingredients can stand on their own merits,” Long remarked.

For my first course at dinner, I decided to forgo a traditional salad (although there were several farm-fresh choices) and found myself torn between the country ham “gritters” and the Thai chicken pizza. In the end, I chose the former and was not disappointed. The perfectly shaped rectangle gritters were stacked like Lincoln logs in a square around a dollop of savory dipping sauce. My tablemates quickly snatched each piece up even before I was able to enjoy a second helping.

Entrée selection also proved troublesome, as I was again having trouble deciding between several options. Sensing my tablemates were in similar straits, we collaborated, with each ordering different dishes so that we could share amongst ourselves. My selection, the filet of beef served with pearl onions, mushroom potato ragout, snow pea tendril, and fried mushroom salad was perfectly cooked as ordered, although I must admit that I was most enamored with the mushroom ravioli. More often than not, when I have ordered ravioli, the sauce is the star, meaning that what’s underneath plays a supporting role. This is not the case at Dudley’s, so I was able to fully experience the flavors of the al dente pillows of pasta and mushroom filling.

When the dessert menus were presented, audible cries of “hooray!” could be heard from the ice cream fans at our table who were thrilled with the honest offering of a hot fudge sundae. One among us chose a similar sundae but with a twist: sea salt, balsamic vinegar, and sweet berries. A little confusing to the palette at first, by the time we reached the bottom of the glass, we were in agreement that the sweet/salty combination was a winner.

“We couldn’t be more pleased with how things are progressing,” said Long. “Reopening after five months and welcoming back our customers is like a family reunion.”