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Herbivoracious FINALLY, THERE ARE GREAT FINE-DINING OPTIONS FOR VEGETARIANS (AND THE CARNIVORES WHO LOVE THEM). by KATIE McCARTHY
in the not-too-distant past, following a vegetarian mushrooms atop artichoke leaves. Other highlights or vegan diet entailed having extremely limited, boring, include flaky kale spanakopita with a molten hot, fluffy often tasteless options when eating at fine restaurants. center and tomato-harissa dipping sauce as well as a Too often these diners would get stuck with plain green trio of "crab" cakes, which mimic the texture and fromsalads and simply sauced pastas while the carnivorous the-sea brininess of crab with macerated hearts of palm. folks around them had many more—and more excitWhile it's one of the world's most healthful cuisines, ing—dishes to choose from. Japanese food as it's consumed in the U.S. relies heavily But much has changed, and there’s never been a on animal proteins: sushi, grilled meats, udon or ramen better time to find great plant-based dining in L.A. than in meat stocks. Even miso soup is made with flakes of Peewee potato salad now—something that animal-rights group PETA (Peodried bonito (a type of fish). However, most Americans and (opposite) artichoke “oysters” from ple for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) recognized aren't familiar with shojin-ryori, the vegan or vegetarian Crossroads Kitchen on when it recently named Los Angeles the third most vegBuddhist diet eaten in Japan. Shojin, which has a location Melrose Avenue an-friendly city in the nation. Beyond the plentiful vegan downtown and recently arrived in Culver City, re-creates fast-casual options in town, there are now many upscale restaurants Japan's nonvegetarian favorites in the shojin style. Spicy tuna on crispy serving plant-based cuisine so innovative and tasty that even nonvegrice, a dish popularized at the legendary Katsu-ya in Studio City, is made etarians regard these places as dining destinations. Additionally, chefs at the downtown restaurant with spicy tofu and organic brown rice at some traditional fine restaurants are becoming more conscientious instead of white. Other items include pan-fried seitan seasoned with about making the vegetarian and vegan dining experience a special one. garlic tamari soy sauce and a range of whimsically named veggie sushi The premier upscale vegan restaurant in L.A. is undoubtedly Melrose rolls, including Purple Treasure (a fried tempeh and avocado cut roll with Avenue's Crossroads Kitchen. With its espresso hardwood floors, soft fried eggplant, chili and sweet miso on top). The downtown location tufted banquettes and faceted Edison bulb chandeliers, it's nothing also offers a selection of veggie ramen bowls that get a healthy Califorlike the stereotypical crunchy, New Age-y vegan restaurant. Chef Tal nia twist with slices of avocado and wilted kale. (Gluten-sensitive diners, Ronnen is a longtime vegan and began cooking to make up for the lack rejoice: Most dishes are gluten-free, and are noted as such.) of fine plant-based food he encountered in his own life. "I decided to Shojin isn't the only local restaurant to take an exotic cuisine and pursue a career as a chef out of sheer frustration of not being satisfied make it vegan. Humble Rahel is the sole restaurant in L.A.'s Little with being served steamed vegetables as entrees when dining out," Ethiopia whose menu is entirely plant-based. In a spartan dining room, he says. Ronnen counts a number of vegan celebrities as fans, includgroups of diners share generously spiced wots (stews) made with an ing Oprah Winfrey and Ellen DeGeneres, but believes that his food is array of steamed vegetables and legumes—zucchini, chickpeas, onions, most popular with mainstream diners. "I would say 90% of our guests lentils. Dine American-style over white tablecloths with silverware, or are not vegan or vegetarian," he says. "They are there because they're go authentic by eating with your hands, scooping up each bite with a interested in reducing their meat consumption and don't want to sacripiece of injera, a flat, spongy, sour bread. The restaurant also encourfice a good dining experience." ages gursha, in which companions eat over the same large plate; tradiRonnen's accessible Mediterranean menu includes many dishes tionally, they also hand-feed bites of food to one another. that reference nonvegan comfort-food favorites—for instance, tortelNot being able to work with animal products could be limiting for loni filled with almond cheese and oven-dried tomatoes and sauced in even a talented chef. But what if he were to eschew his oven as well? At nondairy spinach cream. Tree-nut cheeses figure heavily in Ronnen's M.A.K.E. in Santa Monica, raw-cuisine master Matthew Kenney heats cuisine; in fact, the chef helped create a brand of nut cheeses, Kite Hill, none of his dishes above 105 degrees Fahrenheit. The two-time James which can be ordered from the menu or a to-go counter at Crossroads. Beard Award nominee worked many traditional restaurant kitchens, A platter arrives with a dill, truffle and chive cheese, which gets most including his own Matthew's in New York City, before joining the rawof its flavor from the herbs and is spongy in texture. However, an aged volution. "I was introduced to raw food, reluctantly, by a friend in New almond macadamia White Alder cheese is convincingly dense, with a York about 10 years ago," he remembers. "I had no idea what to expect, brie-like bloomy rind. His creative artichoke "oysters" are hugely popuand left the restaurant with a clear understanding that my role and paslar: kelp caviar, dollops of yellow tomato béarnaise and crunchy oyster sion as a chef was to bring together culinary art and health." Kenney
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