Travel

Old school

Graeme Somerville-Ryan on his top picks for what do with 48 hours in and around Athens

Okay, I, like many of you, am disappointed that Posidonia will not be happening now until 2022. Nevertheless, if you are in shipping, sooner or later you’ll need to be passing through Greece, as the country remains the number one shipowning nation in the world, owning one in five merchant ships sailing today. And Greek shipowners appreciate people coming to see them.

I have now been resident in Athens for nearly two years and, over that time I’ve come up with a couple of basic eating and drinking rules. Rule 1: It is hard to find bad food, it really is. I still vividly remember the very few bad meals I’ve had. Rule 2: Ignore TripAdvisor reviews in English. Tourists dominate here but they have low standards and are easily fooled (who doesn’t love moussaka in summer on the beach!).

You’re in Athens, where to eat, what to do? These are the places on my five-star list for one reason or another.

Restaurants (Piraeus)

Varoulko Seaside: Great location at the marina, fantastic food. Possibly the best value starred Michelin restaurant you’ll eat at.

Papaioannou: Seafood, just up the road from Varoulko, playing in the in the same league with all the same positives.

Margaro: Seafood, more of a local feel. Highly rated as simple and inexpensive by people in the know.

Restaurants (Athens)

GH Attikos Restaurant: Probably can’t beat the views of the Acropolis. Highly recommended by locals.

Strofi: A second option on the on the Acropolis route - famous for its good Greek food. When the Chancellor of Germany last visited Athens, the Greek PM took her there for dinner. Good choice Mr Mitsotakis.

There is so much good food out of the city center. If you’re visiting shipowners in the northern suburbs and the timing is right, consider El Jiron and Villa Disokouri (both on Dim. Vassiliou, Neo Psichiko). Or the nearby Biftekakia & Souvlakia, a well-known and popular souvlaki restaurant (202 Kifissias Ave).

Bars: Where to start?

Brettos: Start at the beginning. Athens’ oldest distillery. In Plaka, the old shopping district. Near the Acropolis. Great ambience with seemingly original barrels. A range of in-house spirits, but you must have the ouzo.

Baba Au Rum: You’re hanging out with shipping folk, possibly sailors, you should be drinking rum. A bar that’s probably too cool for you

or me.

The Clumsies: See above. One of the world’s Top 10 Bars according to some (if you believe these sorts of things).

Dos Gardenias: So good it doesn’t need a website. Cuban bar. Great drinks, great location, great food. Highly recommended. (Ήβης 21 &, Navarchou Apostoli 17, Athina 105 54)

Time out: Sights near Athens

Trust me, I’m an archaeologist. Though it was in a previous part of life. The Acropolis, the Archaeological Museum, and the other sites of Athens are ‘must-see’. But out of the city there are some great trips to be had. All times based on a drive from Syntagma Square.

Cape Sunio/Temple of Poseidon: A large temple. Go and make a sacrifice to Poseidon that the deal you struck at Brettos was as good as

it seemed at the time. (Just over an hour’s drive time). Short visit (1 hour) but a nice drive.

Archaeological site of Thorikos: Out in the direction of the airport, about an hour’s drive to an ancient settlement/theatre (525–480 BC) designed for an orchestra. Great condition and you are likely to find yourself alone (or at least without flocks of tourists). One of my favourite sites (doable in an hour).

Corinth (the Canal, the Citadel, and Ancient Corinth): Pretty much a complete package about 90 minutes from Athens. The canal is worth a brief stop. The mountain top citadel dominates the area and gives you stunning views of the region. Just below lies ancient Corinth, at the edge of new-ish Corinth. A great day-trip.

Delphi (2hr 30mins): Home of the oracle, whose existence possibly explains the success of Greek shipping. One of the great archaeological sites. Temples, a theatre, a stadium, cliffs, and views. Stunning in so many ways. Get up early to beat the crowds (even in high season), depending on the foot traffic it may be worth doing the site first and the museum second. Take half a day at the site/museum. Full-day trip.

Arachova: On the way to/ from Delphi is well worth a stop (Instagram pics don’t take themselves). Grab lunch/dinner at Phterólakka/Ffterolakka (traditional grilled meats).

Livadia: On the way to/from Delphi. This was one of those random stops by accident that turned up a hidden gem. The town has seen better days but boasts a little river with picturesque water wheels, hidden groves, and a church embedded in a cliff (as you walk along the river). Not for me, but you can make the climb up. Greeks will possibly laugh at you if you say you are going here, but tourism is what you make of it. ●