Wine and Dine Along the Rhine

By Renée S. Suen

Made infamous by Hansel and Gretel, the Black Forest is unlike the ominous woodlands that haunted my impressionable young mind when I first heard the Brothers Grimm fairytale. Between the well-trodden path and the sun’s warm rays peeking through a canopy of evergreens above, I feel certain there isn’t a gingerbread house or a questionable fate ahead for me. Instead, my hiking party encounters babbling brooks lined with moss-covered rocks and serene waterfalls on the ascent toward our goal – sampling Black Forest cake from Haus Ketterer.

It’s my first visit to the Black Forest, the site where hiking as an outdoor activity supposedly started and the eponymous German chocolate cake with a cherry filling and whipped cream is rumoured to originate. The version served by the 89-year-old Frau Ketterer might not be the first, but it’s the beacon my fellow river cruising travellers follow.

Breaking the stigma that cruise holidays cater solely to retirees, there’s plenty to do on a river cruise for active Xennials like me. As a light-adventure traveller, I prefer immersing myself in the sights and sounds of a place through urban hikes, sampling regional delicacies and interacting with its denizens. River cruising accommodates this and more.

During our seven-day cruise along the legendary Rhine River with AmaWaterways, I was introduced to Amsterdam’s colourful canals, centuries-old castles flanking Germany and France’s scenic UNESCO-designated Rhine Gorge, before disembarking in Basel, Switzerland. Along the way, I basked in the moment, happily adopting local traditions like cozying up with a flame-licked mug of Rüdesheimer coffee after a day hiking through beautiful terraced vineyards to the ruins of Ehrenfels Castle.

Like a floating boutique hotel, the vessel travels to the next destination while I sleep, freeing me from having to deal with travel logistics, repacking and traffic. The luxury craft caters to a smaller number of guests than traditional ships, meaning there’s plenty of space to relax undisturbed in the lounge to watch picturesque towns and villages roll by through its panoramic windows, to stretch my legs on a post-dinner walk around the sundeck, or to hit the treadmill while cruising to the next port.

Onboard, AmaPrima’s friendly and attentive crew didn’t just greet me by name. They were quick to learn my preferences, from my love for food to the tea I take every morning. They even set aside a brimming platter of roast pork, potatoes and sauerkraut for me when my tour group returned late from a shore excursion.

I found it easy to make new acquaintances – with the Ontarians who I befriended during the cruise’s Welcome Cocktail party, the one-time tablemates at the captain’s gala dinner and an animated group of river cruise veterans who decided to adopt my travel companion and me. This merry bunch set new benchmarks in fun.

Thanks to AmaWaterways, I can finally check off sailing directly under the stars and tippling on bottles of fine wines from my bucket list. Travelling through an acclaimed wine region on a wine-centric cruise is any oenophile’s dream. Besides serving hand-selected wines with their fresh, regionally inspired cuisine, the programs include visiting historic vineyards. Some cruises offer an enhanced experience with complimentary expert-led lectures and guided wine tastings.

Gourmands onboard appreciate the daily changing menu served by AmaWaterways, a member of Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, the prestigious, invite-only international gastronomic society. And they should reserve a multi-course tasting experience at The Chef’s Table, where the last course is perfectly timed with sunset – aka the golden hour, observable through the glass-enclosed dining room.

Ashore, an extensive lineup of tours with varying levels ofintensities awaits travellers of all interests. Attracted by thepromise of reibekuchen (potato pancakes) and Kölsch beer on theCologne walking tour, we visit the stunning Cologne Cathedral,where relics of the Magi – who paid homage to the infant Jesus –rest. The city’s historical architecture leaves me in awe.

Back on the boat, while some passengers attend a yoga classwith the ship’s fitness trainer, take a dip in the whirlpool orenjoy a massage at the spa, I unwind with a cocktail on theal fresco terrace. Although I welcome the company of my fellowpassengers and nightly live entertainment, when I need somealone time, I simply withdraw to my stateroom to be lulled tosleep by the calming waters heard through my open balconywindow.

My tasting of German regional highlights concludes witha ride to Ravenna Gorge. Though I might have missed otherexcursions like biking through Breisach’s winegrowing regionand visiting Riquewihr, the 16th-century village that inspiredBelle’s hometown in Beauty and the Beast, it’s okay with me.I found my happily ever after with a heavenly slice of BlackForest cake.