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eliminated syrups and sweeteners from their cafe, which prevents customers from hiding their coffee behind sugar. Cafe Noto in Windsor does something very similar called a Brew Bar. Just like Local 123, they offer options of single-origin coffees as well as blends, which they brew through unbleached paper filters upon order. “It gives more antioxidants,� manager Jen Leytem explains. These filters still absorb some oils and in turn some flavor but prevent more of the papery taste found in bleached filtration. Of course, the brewing system also relies on the coffees it brews. Roasters are now choosing beans more selectively. As opposed to buying a variety of beans within a country, roasters seek out specific crops within countries for their individual characteristics, just like terroir informs wine. The term “single-origin farm� is being used to speak to a crop’s uniqueness. For example, a Panamanian coffee crop from the Elida Estate holds notes of lemon, verbena and green apple, while a Panamanian crop from the Don Pepe Farm reveals notes of cocoa and plum. Instead of associating a crop with its country of origin, growers and roasters have become very specific to farm and sometimes the particular lot within a farm; microclimates within a farm have a huge impact on the variation of flavor and characteristics in a coffee. Though the convenience of Starbucks and Peet’s cannot be replicated by a small, high-quality, sustainable cafes, there are some alternatives worth exploring in the North Bay. Here exist complex coffees that can stand alone without sugar, vanilla, cream and cocoa. The future of coffee looks a little lighter and a little brighter.
7^c BcdUU Cafe Noto (single cup brew, single-origin coffee) 630 McClelland Drive, Windsor; 707.836.1830. www.cafenoto.com. Flying Goat Coffee (French press, light roast coffee, single origin whole bean and espresso) 324 Center St., Healdsburg; 707.433.3599. 419 Center St., Healdsburg; 707.433.8003. 10 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707.575.1202. www. flyinggoatcoffee.com. Ritual Roasters (French press, light roast coffee, single origin whole bean and espresso) In the Oxbow Public Market, 610 First St., Napa; 707.253.1190. www.ritualroasters.com. Taylor Maid Farms (single-origin coffee, medium roast coffee) Available in bulk at most fine markets. Their outlet store only serves samples and those are made in auto-brew machines. 7190 Keating Ave., Sebastopol; 707.824.9110. www.taylormaidfarms.com. —D.L.
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07.15.09-07.21.09
THE BOHEMIAN