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advertiser SPOTLIGHT
“fresh!” He purchased Sherm’s Sea Food on 119th and Pacific, which had a handful of tables tucked into its market. His next venture was Baileys Breakfast & Lunch on south 120th Street. Shucks Fish House and Oyster Bar spawned when Lindberg expanded his luncheonette within the fish market. In 2006, he and Chef Jon Dye added another 1,500 square feet and expanded the fish sandwich and soup menu. Omaha’s only independently owned oyster bar and seafood restaurant was born. He expanded a year later, opening a second Shucks Fish House in the Shops at Legacy. “One of my main jobs has been to educate people here about seafood in general,” maintains Lindberg. In the early years, Omahans were familiar with sea food staples like shrimp but reticent about venturing into sea food’s unknown depths. Introducing Mahi-Mahi took some doing on Lindberg’s part. At first no one was interested. “So I went down to a very nice Old Market restaurant, had the chef cook some up, cut it into bite-sized pieces, and I went from table to table, getting people to sample it,” recalls Lindberg. “But one good thing about being in business for a long time, and maintaining a good reputation,” he continues, “is the building of trust. If I say it’s good, people tend to believe me. At least in the world of fish,” he quickly qualifies. The clam chowder and Shrimp Po’ Boys are popular dishes. With the weather as cold as it has been, a warming, aromatic kettle of soup is always simmering on Chef Jon’s stove. Lindberg likes Ahi Tuna, a far cry from generic canned tuna,
and shrimp: “If I were stranded on a desert island, I would be okay if I could have fresh tuna and shrimp.” Shucks’ seared tuna is a favorite, as are the restaurant’s soft shelled crab, fried in a very thin breading. Initially, he did not want any of his fish fried. But customer demand required his rethinking that principle. Still unwilling to mask the taste of fresh fish with a layer of dried bread, he compromised, creating “the thinnest breading in town.” Also popular are Shucks Fish House and Oyster Bar’s prices. Most items will run you under $10.00, often including a drink. And, keep in mind this is fresh seafood, predominantly wild caught and flown in daily from coastal U.S. towns and Latin America. Lindberg concedes: “We’re too damned cheap. But that’s what we’re known for.” The atmosphere is laid back, like you would expect from a beach seafood hut. It’s jeans and flannel come winter and shorts and flip-flops in the summer. Says Lindberg: “I don’t think you could overestimate how casual we are. I personally turn up in a t-shirt almost every day.” With Lent approaching, things are winding up at Shucks and Absolutely Fresh Seafood. But that is the way Lindberg likes it. Though he has petitioned the Pope to double the 40 days of Lent, he has been repeatedly dismissed. Never mind. Business is brisk despite the Pope’s disregard. More and more Midwesterners are vicariously traveling to warmer climes when they tuck their napkins under their chins and crack open crab legs or slurp back a plate of oysters. It’s the next best thing to dipping your toes in the sand. m
absolutely fresh seafood
Mon-Sat 9:00-7:00 Sundays 11-5 827-4376 downtown market
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metroMAGAZINE • FEB 2010
Mon-Fri 10:00 – 6:00 Sat 9:00-5:00 closed Sundays 345-5057