Zambia’s Water World: Lake Tanganyika

By: Craig Zytkow Photos: Ndole Bay Lodge

Lake Tanganyika is often described as Africa’s inland seaand its sheer size, age and depth surely merit this description.Often, however, it is not realised that this includes the amazing diversity of activities available to keep the discerning traveller occupied and enthralled.

Imagine a tropical island with beaches, swaying palms, crystal-clear waters and thousands of colourful fish. To this add the African bush in the background, with elephants, antelopes, fish eagles and dassies (rock hyrax), and lastly include a touch of the Swahili coast, with dhows and fishermen in the open waters. Now you have an idea what Lake Tanganyika is and what it offers.

The lake is world-renowned for its amazing clear waters and astounding array of piscine life, especially the ancient family of fishes known as cichlids. And it is perhaps the only place in Zambia where one can go snorkelling. Lake Tanganyika is also a growing destination for SCUBA diving and dive training. The remote coastline between Mpulungu and Nsumbu offers some of the best in water experiences, with towering escarpments dropping into dramatically deep waters. The lack of strong currents, coupled with a variety of subterranean life that includes giant perch through to tiny shrimp, makes Tanganyika the perfect place to learn how to dive, or for experienced divers to descend to the depths.

Above the surface there is just as much to fuel an adrenaline-filled day. For instance,wakeboarding, kitesurfing, kayaking and sailing are all available at various locations and lodges on the lake. During the summer months the lake often glasses over, providing a flat sheet for water sports, when the water is at its cleanest. With no real winter, the slightly cooler months of June through August are just as attractive for activities, with clear skies and sun-filled days, making the water inviting all year round.

Many have heard of Kalambo Falls, the secondhighest waterfall in Africa, but for the visitor who’s after a challenge, the two-hour hike from the shores of the lake to the lip of the falls makes it all the more rewarding. Indeed, the hiking around Lake Tanganyika offers vistas and views that are hard to believe, never mind beat. Izi, Keso, Chika and Muzinga are all waterfalls that make for great hiking destinations that start and end in the cool, clear waters of the lake, and you are almost guaranteed to be the only person there. the world with promises of giant perch and tiger fish, or the unique emperor cichlids that are as feisty on a line as they are colourful. These unique endemic fish are what makes angling here so attractive, offering achance to catch one of a dozen species in an environment that is as beautiful as it is exclusive. For the seriously competitive, the Zambia National Fishing Competition is held in March every year and attracts over 50 fishermen testing their skills against each other and Kapembwa, the ancient spirit of the lake.

If Lake Tanganyika is the jewel at the northern tip of Zambia, then Nsumbu National Park is its shining diamond. A forgotten park, it encompasses some 100 kms of coastline with the most achingly beautiful beaches and coves within its protected area, and a wilderness stretching into the distant mountains. A conservation partnership between a local NGO - Conservation Lake Tanganyika - and the Department of National Parks and Wildlife has made remarkable strides in ensuring that Nsumbu remains a wildlife haven, and elephants swimming in this ancient lake are no longer a rare sight. Nsumbu provides an endless adventure destination in itself.

If all of the above sounds like too much adventure and hard work, lazing on a hammock or beach towel between cool dips in the lake is just as easy; and just as hard to ignore.

By Road:

• Via the great North Road through Mpika and

Kasama. From Kasama follow the tar road to

Mpulungu or go via Mporokoso to the small township of Nsumbu near Ndole Bay Lodge. • Make the most of the northern waterfalls and drive via Luapula province, through Kawambwa and Mporokoso or Nchelenge and Kaputa to

Nsumbu. • By Bus to Mpulungu.

By Air:

• Proflight flies 4 times a week from Lusaka and

Ndola to Kasama. From Kasama it is possible to get a taxi to Mpulungu and onwards by boat to one of the lodges. • Private charter flight from anywhere in Zambia to Nkamba airstrip in Nsumbu National Park.

There is now a public ferry that travels between Mpulungu in the east and Nsumbu in the west. The “Stella” or “Gianula” boats travel in both directions every day, taking around 5 hours and costing K50 per person. Ndole Bay Lodge provides free pickups and drop-offs from the Nsumbu harbour.