Nature Heals—Restore Your Sanity and Self on Safari

WRITER: BROOKE BERLIN PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHANN VANZYL

ll of Zambia is perfumed by the blossoming mahogany trees and I’ve never appreciated the sweet scent of Africa more. Every time I inhale I give thanks for the reminder of how healing it is to be on safari.

As soon as Kenya opened its borders I planned a trip from my home in the USA, to spend two weeks between two very private and personalised properties: Ol Jogi and Cottar’s. I had such a remarkable time that as soon as Zambia started welcoming international travellers I planned a last minute trip—now knowing how easy it can be—to explore Victoria Falls from Livingstone, as well as three national parks: South Luangwa, Kafue and Lower Zambezi. And also Lusaka, because I love African cities and want others to as well, especially when travellers can feel comfortable tucking in for a few nights if they need to get a Covid test before leaving.

For the better part of 2020, I heard a lot of ‘Africa needs tourism; Africa needs you’, and while yes, many of the most impactful conservation and community non-profit initiatives (many supported by the properties I visited and mention) do rely on tourism expenditure and donor contributions, it was during my time in Zambia that I came to the realisation that, actually, YOU need AFRICA; we all do!

When gliding silently along the waters of the Kafue River, on the Green Safaris Ila Lodge solar-powered boat, I marvelled at a massive herd of buffalo gathered on the shore, but yet was more moved by the billowing birdsong echoing in my ears. It reminded me of the talk earlier in the year that more birds had flocked to New York City; but really, we had all just become more still and quiet, amplifying the sounds of nature that had been there all along. I listened as intently to the melodic chirping around me as I would to an opera at the Met, feeling as if a little bit of what I had lost this year was being returned to me, such as live performances.

This year has taken a lot from, and out of, most people. My body has carried the weight and stress of uncertainty like many others. Being able to have some therapeutic massages (my first since January) was a welcome release. My first, a private in-chalet open-air treatment, was at Sindabezi, with the waters of the Zambezi providing some white noise of serenity; my second was a couple’s massage, poolside at the new, private Director’s House at Mfuwe Lodge in South Luangwa and the orange blossom oil organically energised my soul.

I never want to hear the mandate ‘Shelter at Home’ again, being the active outdoor adventurer that I am. It was thrilling to be at Victoria Falls where the Sindabezi team organised a microlight flight over the majestic gorge, a walk with rhinos in the Mosi-oaTunya National Park and a daring excursion to Livingstone Island for a swim in Devil’s Pool, all of which made my heart skip a beat, which actually set it right again. And from Sausage Tree Camp on the Lower Zambezi we had days of play on the water, canoeing, boating and fishing. From all the bush properties I stayed at I could also have gone on a walking safari, but this time I was content to sit in a vehicle and cover more ground, as the national parks were empty and I knew this would be the only opportunity to explore them without other guests or vehicles. On our first game drive at Sausage Tree Camp we came upon two leopards together and spent more than an hour with them, totally alone. It was the same private experience on safari at Time + Tide Chinzombo and also at Mfuwe Lodge, where we had South Luangwa National Park to ourselves (more lovely leopard sightings as well as other game); and at Green Safaris Ila Lodge where we didn’t see anyone else in Kafue National Park.

All that said, while we were out on safari in a private vehicle and responsibly socially distancing when back at the lodges, we still met kindred spirits. Being social is part of my nature and I am fulfilled by community and networking. In a time when we’re told to ‘bubble’ and keep our distance, it was really rejuvenating to have conversations with other travellers. It was especially nice to make a new friend, a Lusaka resident, whom we met at Time + Tide Chinzombo, reconnected with at Green Safaris Ila Lodge where we were invited to join for her Big-0 celebrations, and closed out the trip with at Sausage Tree Camp. One of the most special elements of a safari is sitting around the fire, G&T (or champers) in hand, sharing stories of the bush, and building bridges with others from around the world. I’m pleased that even in a time where privacy and space are preferred and sanctified, that we can still connect, human to human, just without the hugs.

In the end, an international trip to Africa is exactly what the doctor prescribed for me, and I’m sure for you, too. It’s actually quite easy, and Zambia is open to citizens from all countries around the world. Find the best airline route that works for you, given that options might still be limited. Get a Covid test within two weeks of arrival and ensure it’s PCR (polymerase chain reaction) negative, and verified in English. Figure out if you need a visa—you can get it upon arrival which is super easy—so have the cash to hand. Book with an accredited operator in your country— my trip was organised by Zambian Ground Handlers who work with every operator out there—so that you have a contact for your questions or an ear for your hesitations. Pack a mask (mandatory on flights); we flew domestically with Proflight Zambia and fully trust the safety and security, health and hygiene protocols they have in place, similar to all the lodges. Take some hand sanitiser or disinfectant wipes (nice to have on flights), and be prepared to have your temperature taken daily and a constant squirt of sanitiser applied directly to your hands by camp staff throughout your trip. With a few simple guidelines adhered to, you’ll find yourself in Zambia in no time having the best safari of your life and reviving your sheltered spirit. ■

BIOGRAPHY: BROOKE BERLIN Founder of Karoo Consulting, a company focused on promoting travel to Africa and supporting conservation and community nonprofit organisations, Brooke has been exploring the continent for 15 years and has been to 19 of Africa’s 54 countries. She studied journalism and cultural anthropology and her passion and skills combine to bring awareness to the diversity and uniqueness of Africa. Her favourite activities include: participating in a rhino notching and elephant rescue; boating and flying; enjoying designer outfits from Johannesburg, Lusaka and Accra; and visiting tribes in the Omo Valley, Nubian Desert and West Africa.