Simalaha Horse Safaris in Zambia

WRITER: GAIL KLEINSCHMIDT PHOTOGRAPHY: CHUNDUKWA RIVER LODGE

imalaha Horse Safaris and Chundukwa River Lodge have opened a new chapter to an amazing adventure in Zambia on the Zambezi Flats; close enough to Victoria Falls, Livingstone, to make this a perfect travel experience. ‘This,’ says Doug Evans, a master horseman, ‘is real riding country.’ As the morning mists rise over a blanket of grasslands, there’s an indescribable stillness that precedes intermittent sounds of wildebeest snorting and zebra braying. We sip our early morning coffee looking out on the seemingly never-ending plains of the Simalaha Flats. Horses are quietly chewing their breakfast, blinking with satisfaction, and saddles are on the rack in preparation for a full day’s riding.

This is an African wilderness with a unique disposition; a place where wildlife and people co-exist under one sky. It is the Simalaha Community Conservancy, inspired and driven by visionaries—Chief Inyambo Yeta of the Sesheke Chiefdom and Chief Sekute of the Sekute Chiefdom. The conservancy forms a link between the Chobe National Park in Botswana and the Kafue National Park in Zambia. Also, interestingly, the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA) is the world’s largest transfrontier conservation area ever established and is an exciting initiative that involves five countries: Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Partnering with Peace Parks Foundation, this vision has become a reality. Wildebeest, zebra, lechwe, puku, impala, waterbuck, giraffe and buffalo have been re-introduced to the plains and many more wildlife species are on their way in the very near future. The ‘old days’, when the Simalaha flood plains were teeming with wildlife, the forests thick and the people benefiting from this rich environment, are once more being realised. Each step towards this end is carefully worked through by the Simalaha Community Conservancy Trust and Peace Parks, sensitising and supporting the communities to embrace such changes.

More and more wildlife can start to traverse old migration paths safely and already elephants have been seen periodically walking their historical timelines.

‘We are very privileged to be invited to participate in this remarkable venture by Senior Chief Inyambo Yeta,’ says Doug. ‘I have been riding horses in wildlife areas for over 40 years and this opportunity is a real dream come true. Having grown up as a fourth generation Zambian in this area, I am familiar with the Zambezi flood plains and the Lozi and Sekute people of western Zambia.’

We conducted our first reconnaissance on horseback into Simalaha in September 2019. The wide-open plains offered perfect flat riding conditions for cantering alongside wildlife; the horses also had to swim across small tributaries flowing back into the Zambezi River. We watched pelicans feasting on catfish squirming in the shallows, and African jacanas, sometimes known as ‘lily trotters’, darting for insects. We also saw reed cormorants, long-toed lapwings and a myriad of kingfishers. We admired the majestic African fish eagle flying overhead keeping a watchful eye on potential catfish, and all the time we were riding with wildebeest and zebra in our sights, plus lechwe and waterbuck. Mixed in with the wildlife were the community’s cattle, adding another dimension to our ride.

Reaching the Zambezi River, we rode into the fishing villages where the fishermen were amazed to see the horses. In some cases, we were pretty sure the children had never seen a horse in their lives, hence immense excitement and dogs barking, and the children excitedly accompanied us to the river.

The Zambezi River is 3,600 kilometres from source to sea, running from the north west of Zambia east towards the Indian Ocean. We rode along its high banks, giving us a great vantage point to look down into the river to see hippos and crocodiles. We then turned back inland, riding up into the mopane woodland and viewing herds of impala and also giraffe. These trees are well known for hosting the mopane worm which is harvested as a source of protein for the local people.

The Simalaha Community Conservancy extends in every direction and offers endless different riding options with scenic rivers, pans and forest, always in sight of some form of wildlife. There are few roads in this untamed wilderness area, so all rides are backed up with pack mules and saddle bags.

Getting back to our camp in the late afternoon, the horses were all picketed out for the night and with camp fires ready lit and sundowners in hand we sat and watched the sun sink over the distant horizon. And again, the deep silence of the Simalaha plain swept over us ensuring the best night’s sleep ever.

Simalaha Horse Safaris offer a unique riding experience combining wildlife encounters and cultural interaction, together with knowledgeable guides and staff, comfortable bush accommodation, hot showers and good horses to boot.

‘Our horses are a mixture of Basuto ponies, quarter horses and Boerperds [from South Africa]. We use comfortable trail, Western and Australian stock saddles. Horses are well seasoned and schooled and for horsemen and women they will be a pleasure to ride,’ says Doug.

Riding groups consist of a maximum of eight and a minimum of four people. Between four and six hours will be spent in the saddle each day. During the heat of the day guests can relax in their bespoke tented camp on the high ground, overlooking the Simalaha plains. On full riding days a picnic lunch will be provided, and riders will enjoy a well-earned siesta in the cool shade of the trees before mounting up and riding back to camp for evening sundowners.

In addition to Simalaha Horse Safaris, Doug and his partner Gail own and run a well-established lodge on the banks of the Zambezi River, 30 kilometres upstream from Victoria Falls. Chundukwa River Lodge offers panoramic river views from its bespoke stilted wooden chalets. You can end your riding holiday with some wonderful R&R here, seeing the Victoria Falls, with sundowner cruises on the river and lots more. Chundukwa is also the main base for Doug’s horse herd. Avid riders can enjoy riding out in the surrounding wilderness area and along the river while staying in the lodge. ■

Zambezi Horse Safaris offer three package options, some combining a riding holiday with visiting Victoria Falls and staying at Chundukwa River Lodge: • Seven nights (riding with wildlife, Chundukwa and Victoria Falls) • Five nights (riding with wildlife, Chundukwa and Victoria Falls) • Three nights (Simalaha riding only) • All conservancy fees are included in the rate and go directly to supporting the Simalaha Community Conservancy Trust with their hands-on community initiatives. Please note that in order to qualify to ride you will be asked to fill in a questionnaire. For inquiries and reservations, you can contact reservations@chundukwa.com For more on Simalaha: www.peaceparks.org/simalaha