Glorious Greens

BY ROBIN ASBELL

The wide world of leafy green vegetables is one of delectable flavors and deeply nutritious meals. Leaves such as kale and spinach are some of the most nutrient-dense foods you can get. They are high in fiber, low calorie, and each variety of leafy green offers its own balance of nutrients. In general, most deliver much needed vitamins K, A and C, along with calcium and iron. They are also rich in antioxidants—but usually a bargain at the checkout.

If you grew up eating steamed spinach as a side dish, or the occasional romaine salad, it may be time to expand your experience and try cooking with other greens including kale, collards and broccoli raab. We’re dishing up these delicious ideas.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Curly cavatappi and peppery arugula combine forces in a creamy pasta salad that will be a hit at picnics and barbecues. Serve it spread out in a large serving bowl, with the chicken spread on top for a dramatic presentation, or just toss it and pack it in containers for transport.

1 pound chicken breast 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, minced 1 tablespoon fresh lemon zest 1 teaspoon salt, divided 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided 1 pound cavatappi pasta ¼ cup mayonnaise ¼ cup plain nonfat Greek yogurt 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 4 ounces arugula, coarsely chopped ½ cup sliced red onion 1 cup grape tomatoes, halved ½ cup shredded Parmesan cheese

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment and reserve. Put on a large pot of salted water to boil for the pasta.

2. Trim chicken breasts and cut each in ½-inch slices, across the grain and place in a large bowl. Mix the rosemary, lemon zest and ½ teaspoon salt and sprinkle over the chicken, then drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, toss to coat. Spread on the prepared pan, then bake for about 10 minutes, until the chicken reaches 160°F on an instant read thermometer. Cool on a rack.

3. Cook the pasta as directed on the package, about 9 minutes. Drain and rinse.

4. In a large bowl, combine the mayonnaise, yogurt, lemon juice and remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and stir to mix. Add the cooked pasta, arugula, red onion, grape tomatoes and Parmesan and toss to mix.

5. Place the pasta salad in a large serving bowl and top with chicken to serve.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Tabouli is a Middle Eastern salad made with whole-grain bulgur and usually a few handfuls of fresh parsley. In this version, sweet, tender spinach takes the place of parsley for a bright green salad that can even serve as a light meal on its own.

1 cup bulgur ¼ teaspoon salt 2 cups water 6 tablespoons lemon juice ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 4 cups (one 4-ounce package) baby spinach, packed, minced 1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped 1 large red bell pepper, chopped 3/4 ounce fresh mint leaves, minced 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1. In a small pot, bring the water to a boil, then add the bulgur and salt and return to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 15 minutes. When all the water is absorbed, take off the heat, fluff with a fork, and let cool. This can be made a day ahead and refrigerated, tightly covered.

2. In a large bowl, combine the lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper, and stir to combine. Add the bulgur and toss to mix.

3. Add the spinach, cucumber, pepper, mint and chickpeas, and mix well.

4. Serve at room temperature, or chill for up to 3 days.

AVOCADO-FISH TACOS WITH KALE SLAW

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Fish tacos are a So-Cal classic, usually served with a cabbage slaw. In this veggie-rich version, slivered kale makes a fantastic, deep green slaw, and avocados add some creaminess. The sauce is optional–you may not feel you need anything more.

8 (6-inch) corn tortillas 16 ounces tilapia or cod ½ teaspoon paprika ½ teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 large avocado, cubed ½ cup cilantro, chopped

2 cups shredded kale ¼-½cup mayonnaise 4 tablespoons chopped scallion 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice ½ teaspoon salt 1 large jalapeño, seeded and minced

4 tablespoons mayonnaise 4 tablespoons plain Greek yogurt ½ teaspoon salt 4 tablespoons fresh lime juice ½ teaspoon ground chipotle

1. Make sauce, if desired: In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise, yogurt, salt, lime juice and chipotle. Stir and scrape into a cup for drizzling.

2. Wrap the tortillas in foil and warm in a 350°F oven for 15 minutes, or place on a plate, cover loosely with a paper towel and warm in the microwave for 30 seconds just before serving.

3. Make slaw by combining the kale, mayo, scallion, lime juice, salt and jalapeño, toss to mix and let stand at room temperature while you prepare the tacos.

4. Cut the fish into ½- to 3/4-inch cubes, place in a large bowl and sprinkle with paprika and salt, reserve. In a large skillet, drizzle the olive oil and place the pan over medium-high heat. Add the fish cubes and stir. Sprinkle with paprika and salt and you stir, reducing the heat to medium as the cubes start to sizzle. When the fish is white and starting to flake, about 3 minutes, cut a piece in half to make sure it’s opaque; cook a little longer (about 1 to 2 minutes) if still raw in the center.

5. Divide the fish mixture among four corn tortillas, sprinkle with avocado and cilantro and top with sauce, alongside about ¼ cup slaw per taco. Serve immediately.

Smart cooks in every culinary tradition have been creating meals from leaves since pre-history. Back when humans were hunter-gatherers, figuring out which leaves were good to eat would have been an essential skill, and edible leaves would be a forager’s snack. We have been cultivating them for at least 2,000 years, selecting the traits we enjoy, and every region of the world has favorites. Over all that time, cooks have also gotten really good at making them delicious. And thanks to our diversity, Americans have access to many greens of the world.

In China, bok choy, gai lan, choy sum and amaranth are popular greens you may find in the local market. Stir-frying, simmering and above all, pickling are common ways of preparing “leafies,” and salted, pickled greens are added to many dishes.

In Africa, sorrel, collards, taro, cassava and sweet potato leaves are just a few of the many varieties of leafy greens eaten. The low-and-slow stewing of greens that we associate with Southern cookery came from African traditions.

In India, spinach, water spinach, mustard greens, fenugreek leaves, purslane and nettles are some standouts in a crowded field of greens. They are enhanced by the nuanced spice combinations of Indian cooks, and a famous dish, saag paneer, originated in the Punjab, resembling creamed spinach, with cheese.

In Mexico, chard, beet greens, watercress, squash leaves, lamb’s quarters and amaranth are popular sautéed, or cooked in stews and soups.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Chicken leg quarters are affordable and flavorful and deserve to get more play on your menus. Here, the meat is slashed so it will get a good coating of spices and to cook more quickly. The curried collards add a creamy counterpoint to the spicy chicken and have enough lush sauce to enliven a side of rice or flatbreads.

1 teaspoon ground allspice 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon ground cloves 2 teaspoons dried thyme 1 teaspoon paprika ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon cayenne 1 teaspoon salt 6 chicken leg quarters 2 tablespoons avocado oil, divided 1 medium lime, juiced

2 cups coconut milk 1 bunch (about 6) scallions, chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 2 tablespoons curry powder 1 large jalapeño, seeded and chopped 1 bunch collard greens, stemmed and slivered, reserve stems for another use 1 medium red bell pepper, thinly sliced ¾ teaspoon salt

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Spread ½ tablespoon avocado oil on a baking pan large enough to hold the chicken quarters.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the spices and salt. Mix well.

3. For chicken, use a sharp paring knife to cut slashes into the meat, to the bone, in a couple of places on each leg and thigh. Sprinkle lime juice over the chicken and rub it in, then the spice mixture. Rub it into the slashes. Place the chicken on the prepared baking sheet and drizzle with remaining 1½ tablespoons oil. Roast for 20 minutes, until a thick part of the thigh registers 160°F on a meat thermometer and the juices run clear when pierced.

4. For the Greens: Place a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat and pour in the coconut milk. Stir in the scallions, garlic and curry powder, and bring to a low boil. Add the jalapeño, collards, red bell pepper and salt and stir until the greens wilt and turn dark green. Reduce the heat to medium-low and stir frequently for about 8 minutes, until the greens are very tender. Serve about ¼ cup of the greens on each plate, topped with a leg quarter.

JERK-RUBBED CHICKEN WITH CURRIED COLLARD GREENS

SALMON AND BROCCOLI RAAB PAN BAGNAT

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Pan bagnat is French for “bathed bread,” and refers to the way the vinaigrette soaks into the bread as it sits under a weight. The French classic is usually made with tuna, but here we use salmon and add a hefty portion of leafy greens. Peppery radishes and fragrant basil make this a sandwich to remember.

3 cups broccoli raab (or sub Tuscan kale), coarsely chopped 1 (6-ounce) can salmon, drained 3 medium red radishes, thinly sliced 2 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped ½ cup grape tomatoes, sliced 2 tablespoons kalamata olives, sliced 1 cup fresh basil, slivered 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 clove garlic, chopped or pressed ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 (1-pound) loaf ciabatta

1. Set a steamer over simmering water. Steam raab about 2 minutes. Drain, spread on a clean kitchen towel and roll up to dry completely.

2. Break up the salmon into a large bowl and add the cooled greens. Add radish, eggs, tomatoes, olives and basil.

3. In a cup, whisk the red wine vinegar, olive oil, garlic, salt and red pepper flakes, and pour over the salmon mixture, and toss to mix. Let marinate at room temperature while you slice the bread.

4. Split the loaf lengthwise. Carefully tear out about ½ cup from the center of the bread to make room for the filling. Place on a large sheet of waxed paper or plastic wrap. Stuff the filling into the bread, close it, and wrap tightly. Place the loaf under a weight like a cast iron pan for about 15 minutes, then refrigerate until time to serve. It can be made up to 2 days ahead. To serve, slice into 4 or 6 portions. n nutrition (per serving)

CALORIES: 520, FAT: 17G (SAT: 3.5G), CHOLESTEROL: 65 MG, SODIUM: 620 MG, CARB: 62G, FIBER: 4G, SUGAR: 5G, PROTEIN: 32G

CALORIES: 340, FAT: 20G (SAT: 3G), CHOLESTEROL: 0 MG, SODIUM: 390 MG, CARB: 36G, FIBER: 7G, SUGAR: 3G, PROTEIN: 7G

CALORIES: 370, FAT: 28G (SAT: 4.5G), CHOLESTEROL: 50 MG, SODIUM: 860 MG, CARB: 13G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 1G, PROTEIN: 19G

CALORIES: 520, FAT: 43G (SAT: 23G), CHOLESTEROL: 105 MG, SODIUM: 810 MG, CARB: 17G, FIBER: 9G, SUGAR: 5G, PROTEIN: 24G

CALORIES: 280, FAT: 10G (SAT: 1.5 G), CHOLESTEROL: 85 MG, SODIUM: 670 MG, CARB: 31G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: 2G, PROTEIN: 15G