LNE & Spa - April 2013

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals

April 2013

$7.50

Industry Leaders in Keeping the Planet Green. Éminence offers products with the highest organic standards worldwide including USDA Certified Organic, ingredients certified by Demeter International – the only global certifier of Biodynamic® products – and Biokontroll Hungaria. Éminence cares about the planet from harvest to production, packaging to delivery. We are committed to being the “Greenest Company in Town” with the following initiatives: Wind and Solar Powered Manufacturing, Sustainable Farming Practices, Handmade Products, Recyclable Packaging, Vegetable Inks in Printing, Recycled Paper in Outer Packaging, Biodegradable Corn-Based Packing Materials, Green Warehouse Practices, Hybrid and Biodiesel Car Deliveries, Green Transportation Support for our Staff, Green Community Supporter, Green Spa Program, ISO 90001/2001 Certified Manufacturing. We have taken our commitment to the environment to a whole new level with our new Tree Planting

NENC MI

E

É

Initiative – Trees for the Future – where we are committed to planting one tree for every product that we sell!

G AN IC

Boldijarre Koronczay President and Master Trainer

AR E

OR

GREENSPA SKI N

C

See incredible results, naturally: 13% increase in skin density 25% increase in skin smoothness 26% decrease in wrinkle depth Results in just two months.

Awaken to younger looking skin with our new

containing argan oil and nutmeg seeds. Pair with the

Age Corrective Night Collection. This advanced night

original Age Corrective Collection during the day

recovery collection features incredible antioxidants,

for the ultimate solution to the visible signs of aging.

vitamins, precious herbs and oils, plus an exclusive

Visit www.eminenceorganics.com to locate a spa

all-natural Anti-Aging Stem Cell Complex

near you to purchase this new product line.

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CONTENTS APRIL 2 0 1 3

skin

VOLUME 28

N U M BE R 4

OSHA Updates 22 The AromaChroma Tone Facial 26 Smart Ingredients 30 Concierge Aesthetics 34 Checklist for Choosing Wisely 38 Skin News 40

Concierge Aesthetics

The Ultimate Consumer Experience

spa

organic & wellness

page 62

Life Coaching 93 Chaum Life Center 94 Spa Partnerships 97 Going Organic 100 Fasting 103 Organic & Wellness News 106

business

image

intuition based treatments page 46

Soft Targets: Safeguarding Your Spa 44 Let Your Gut Guide You 46 The Pursuit of Joy 54 Spa News 58

page 34

Human Capital 60 The Ultimate Consumer Experience 62 Perception is Key 68 Harmony in the Spa Developing Your Career From Solopreneur to Entrepreneur!

The Marketplace Biz News

Let Your Gut Guide You

72 76 80 86 90

Chaum Life Center page 94

extras Fresh Look 107 Bliss 109 Say “I do” 115 Professional Collaboration 117 Trends 120 Image News 122

Bliss

From the Editor Spa of the Month: Bella Reina Spa, Delray Beach, FL Calendar of Events Advertisers’ Index

6

10 124 130

Cover

Natalie Portman courtesy of Dior, The New Nude

page 109

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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Beauty in harmony with nature.

NEW!

The new GREEN PEEL® skin care series The new GREEN PEEL® skin care series – Plant intelligence for beautiful, radiant skin. Skin care with the power of plant complexes. Developed and produced with the highest cosmetic standards. No animal products, mineral oils, parabens, silicones or PEGs, aggressive surfactants, or synthetic fragrances.

Meet GREEN PEEL® – the new active cosmetics with natural active ingredients.

Interested? We will gladly send you further information. usa@schrammek.com | www.greenpeelusa.com

from the

EDITOR

S

INCE ITS CONCEPTION IN PARIS, FRANCE in 1952, Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa has built a worldwide reputation for sharing the most up to date knowledge in the world of spas, well-being, beauty, skin care and therapies. Each month, the magazine cover of LNE & Spa features exquisite, cutting-edge styles and beautiful faces from all over the world! This month’s cover features the stunning Oscar winning actress and model, Natalie Portman. Portman is talented, gorgeous, educated and health conscious. This dedicated vegetarian graduated from Harvard University after taking time off from her acting career to study.

The April issue of LNE & Spa focuses on the body and soul. We all are familiar with how our emotional and physical health are intertwined and impacted by life’s daily stressors.

Consumers increasingly want to partner with professional licensed therapists for guidance and assistance in improving their lifestyles. For so many spa professionals, the desire to help our clients goes beyond skin deep; many of us want to help our guests achieve optimal health and wellness. As a trained and licensed therapist, do you rely on methodology and protocols for your treatments or intuition to assist you with new and existing clients? On page 46, Goldie Bonnell offers a wonderful article on how to utilize your inner voice to guide you during treatments.

Bridal season is in full swing as the weather warms up. This is a great time of year to capture extra revenue and guests, and create happy and beautiful clients. Brides and their entourages are everywhere, so no matter where you are located, you can benefit from this market! LNE & Spa’s revamped IMAGE Section, starting on page 107, offers informative tips on how to reach out to the bridal market, along with fabulous makeup tutorials and in-depth nail artistry articles to expand your business. Internationally acclaimed makeup artist Pamela Taylor showcases informative makeup techniques for creating a beautiful bride that you do not want to miss!

Boost your career by attending one of The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa conferences coming up in Miami Beach, FL on April 7th and 8th or Dallas, TX on May 5th and 6th. All-inclusive admission covers informative classes, expert educators, networking and a dynamic General Session for the best two-day conference in the industry! n —Denise R. Fuller, denise@lneonline.com

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

wanted: those seeking greatness

Discover your unique potential and achieve your personal best. Become a PCA SKIN Certified Professional.

Greatness begins here.

Call PCA SKIN today at 877.PCA.PEEL [722.7335], visit www.pcaskin.com or email education@pcaskin.com.

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Scan here to access a list of our upcoming classes. http://www.pcaskin.com/greatnessbeginshere/classes.html

Beauty in harmony with nature.

3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 www.lneonline.com e-mail: tradeshows@lneonline.com subscriptions@lneonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@lneonline.com Editor in Chief Denise R. Fuller denise@lneonline.com Art Director Sacha Smith sacha@lneonline.com Assistant Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com

before treatment wrinkle formation

Director of Sales Aché Fougere ache@lneonline.com Marketing Director Christèle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com

after treatment skin after third peeling

GREEN PEEL® Herbal Peeling Treatment 1 Product – 3 treatment options.The treatment result is guided by the amount of herbal ingredients. GREEN PEEL® Herbal Peeling Treatment is suitable for almost any type of skin and can solve a vast range of skin problems. Worldwide experience for more than 50 years.

before treatment impure skin

after treatment regeneration of tissue after fourth peel

GREEN PEEL® Herbal Peeling Treatment – the Original.

Interested? We will gladly send you further information. usa@schrammek.com | www.greenpeelusa.com

Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo laura@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Assistant Mayli Bueno mayli@lneonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

Contributors Leon Alexander, Ph.D. Patti Biro Goldie Bonnell Lyn Christian Ronel Corbin Nina Curtis Donna Dodier Denise R. Fuller Jimm Harrison

Jenny Hogan Camille Hoheb Lori Hutchinson Kaffee Keldie Richard Linder Annie Mayo Michael Q. Pugliese Linda Rae Robert Sachs

Dori Soukup Robert Spalding, D.P.M. David Suzuki Pamela Taylor Sherry Taylor Shawn Towne Dale Turner Kristina Valiani Tina Zillmann

Printed with 100% soy-based ink.

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilities exist.

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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SPA

OF THE MONTH

TRANSFORMATION TO SUCCESS BELLA REINA SPA DELRAY BEACH, FL

THE PLAYFUL DECORATING FLOURISHES of black and white damask wallpaper and sheer pink draperies at the Bella Reina Spa in Delray Beach, FL is the work of a serious, seasoned spa owner, Nancy Reagan. Known as the “First Lady of Health and Wellness,” Reagan has more than 20 years of experience as an esthetician, spa owner, makeup artist, nail professional and nutrition expert. The twists and turns she has experienced along the way make for an interesting tale of transformation. This successful spa founder and CEO was featured in a recent article in The New York Times (November 22, 2012), identifying her as a “skin care coach.” Reagan is following a new Page 10 • www.LNEONLINE.com

trend of connecting with clients through coaching sessions, sharing advice and helping them set goals to improve their skin and overall wellness.

She has proven herself to be an astute professional who takes risks, learns from her mistakes and continues to innovate.

After preparing to enter the investment world with a master’s degree in business from the Uni­ versity of Tennessee at Chattanooga, Reagan began her professional life as an investment advisor. It was only after the mortgage backed securities crisis (1988-1989) that she began looking for alternative job opportunities. In a bold continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photos courtesy of Bella Reina Day Spa

by Kaffee Keldie

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spa of the month|bella reina day spa

Nancy Reagan

move, she decided to study esthetics. Reagan earned a Florida specialty license and started practicing esthetics in Delray Beach. The first location she attempted came complete with a neighbor who had a motorcycle and a cigarette boat that were constantly revved up. Quickly realizing that the two did not mix, the landlord agreed to free her from the lease. Reagan relocated to a much more suitable location, which became N Reagan & Company. For the next 11 years, Reagan established her reputation and improved her skill set, developed a loyal staff and built an adoring clientele. During this time she was approached by a client who had a business proposition. The woman’s family owned a number of hotels, and they were planning a new one on the ocean in Delray Beach. They needed someone who knew the spa business to partner with them for their newest project. It would involve creating a spa facility from the ground up. Since this group had not had a spa in any of their other hotels, Reagan would be in charge of everything from concept, site plan, interior design, product selection, treatment and menu design to staffing and management. Reagan was challenged by the idea. A partnership with the

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IN JUST 917 FEET OF SPACE, THE STAFF AT BELLA REINA MEETS THE CHALLENGE OF EFFECTIVELY STAGING THE DAY. hotel owners was created and she went to work.

It was during this time that Reagan sought the assistance of accomplished spa consultants and made lasting connections with several. She continues to value their support and gives credit to three team members of Blu Spa Consultants: Lisa Jacobs, Sherroll Scow and Ann Patton. The hotel spa, comprised of 11 treatment rooms, opened in 2006 with much anticipation. Two years later, the partnership with the hotel owners took a negative turn, which devastated Reagan. She found herself in an unforeseeable situation that eventually led to the dissolution of the partnership, bringing Reagan to a crossroads.

Now free from the responsibilities of the day to day operations at the hotel but equipped with all the skills, operations expertise and a love of continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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Visit our website: www.ladyburd.com

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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA

PRESENTED BY

Endorsed by:

CONTACT US TODAY FOR YOUR FREE SHOW PROGRAM:

1.800.471.0229 • LNEONLINE.COM 3929 Ponce de Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL 33134 USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664

THE TRENDSETTER OF BEAUTY

MIAMI BEACH FL MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER

APRIL 7 & 8, 2013 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Miami Beach is The event of the year in Florida for spa professionals. The two-day conference offers dynamic education, cutting-edge companies and opportunities to build relationships with leaders in the spa industry from around the globe. Estheticians, therapists, spa owners and resort directors sharpen their knowledge, advance their skills and collaborate with leading companies and manufacturers to create a dynamic, successful and thriving industry!

2-DAY ALL-INCLUSIVE ADMISSION

$60

$75 when you register after 03/15/13

ALL-INCLUSIVE ADMISSION INCLUDES: • All General Session Lectures and Demos • Medical facilities, Aesthetic and Wellness Center Track • Salon/Spa Seminar Management • NASN-National Aesthetics Spa Network • Medical Esthetics Seminar • Medical Spa Business Seminar

1-DAY ALL-INCLUSIVE ADMISSION

$40

$50 when you register after 03/15/13

• Image Seminars

NEW

• Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar • AIA-Aesthetics International Association • Spa Business Lounge NEW • The Green Spa Network Village • All Manufacturers’ Workshops • Exhibit Hall flooded with hundreds of exhibitors

NEW

spa of the month|bella reina day spa

THE PROOF IS IN THE PUDDING. EACH WEEK, APPROXIMATELY 200 CLIENTS RECEIVE SERVICES AT BELLA REINA. the industry, Reagan assumed the role of spa consultant until she was persuaded by several previous employees to open another spa in Delray Beach. Since the opening of Bella Reina in June of 2009, Reagan’s unwavering focus and strong belief in results driven treatments, based on scientific principles coupled with teaching wellness lifestyle, has set her apart from the competition. Even with less than 1,000 square feet, the use of space at Bella Reina is a study in functionality! There is a three station nail bar that encourages interaction and client connection; a banquet of three pedicure chairs complete with stainless steel tubs that feature ozone to kill fungus and bacteria; and a product wall displaying a mix of skin care, nutritional supplements and gift items adjacent to a waiting area. All of this is

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visible when entering the front door of the spa.

Just behind a rolling, frosted glass door, there are three treatment rooms for massage, skin care and body treatments, as well as a rest room and an area for all back of house activities such as laundry, storage and office space, and their autoclave for sterilization. It is a testament to the old adage that “less is better.” In just 917 feet of space, the staff at Bella Reina meets the challenge of effectively staging the day, delivering a variety of skin, body and nail treatments and maintaining the serenity that is expected at a spa.

The proof is in the pudding. Each week, approximately 200 clients receive services at Bella Reina. Reagan shares that in January of 2013, the spa had a 65 percent increase in visitors over the same month in 2012. What are the factors that contribute to that sort of growth? The well trained, caring staff that has been put in place in the two and a half years since the spa opened?

The word of mouth among satisfied clients who have benefitted from the enticing menu of multifaceted, science based treatments? Or is it continues

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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spa of the month|bella reina day spa

Reagan’s prolific and effective marketing efforts?

These include online sharing of advice and information at nancyreagansblog.com, Twitter (7,265 followers) and the spa’s Facebook page (2,100 fans), all of which engage and encourage the spa’s growth? Of course, it is all of the above and more.

It was her own chronic health issues that prompted Reagan to look for alternative solutions. She learned firsthand the role that nutrition and supplementation plays in the body’s vitality and longevity. After successfully controlling her own problems that defined a personal health transformation, it became her mantra. This belief in a conscientious, wellness lifestyle plays a big part in the core philosophy at Bella Reina. In short, it is “inside out.” Reagan believes that spas have the opportunity to pick up where traditional medicine leaves off. She became a certified weight loss coach and trainer. In her coaching sessions, she teaches that everything is based on one’s

ADVICE FROM REAGAN’S LESSON BOOK • Do your research/learn constantly • Seek expert advice/surround yourself with people who are more knowledgeable than yourself • Don’t stand still—evolve • Don’t be afraid to fail

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diet. She challenges clients to take responsibility for their health to cure and prevent lifestyle based diseases.

Reagan has brought the inside/outside concept to the spa’s unique menu design by specifying “external” products to improve the skin’s surface, and “internal” products to complement the treatment by addressing issues from within.

The most requested services at the spa are facial rejuvenation treatments. The estheticians employ multifunctional “four-in-one” machines, which deliver ultrasonic microdermabrasion, LED, microcurrent and ultrasonic product penetration to achieve visible results. They then finish by administering a potent dose of isotonix vitamin drink specific to the desired results. Clients can also choose to add a “face booster” to their treatments. Choices include a stem cell DNA serum, collagen and caviar face mask or a variety of booster ampoules.

The “Fassage” is an 80 minute combination massage and express facial. From the “Body Spa” treatment selections, there is the slimming infrared wrap, which offers an option that is seven times more effective than conventional heat, steam saunas or wraps for detox and weight loss. The innovative nail care menu addresses callus removal, rough and cracked heels and a cure for nail fungus. Billed as the ultimate ”medi meets pedi,“ nail care products use 30 percent lactic acid and the ozone generator for medical sterilization, along with the natural or gel manicures at the popular nail bar. The newest addition to the comprehensive menu is aromatherapy massage.

After a lengthy search, Reagan found just the right company that makes effective and beautiful aromatic blends. She explains that when making product choices, she looks for product manufacturers that are “good partners,” because their support is vital. She believes that changing product and service offerings is healthy and important for the business, but recommends doing the necessary research before making such critical decisions. She attends as many local industry conventions as possible to get information and find new product selections. To get a broader perspective and exposure to more West Coast vendors, she goes to a conference in Las Vegas each year.

The spa team currently totals 13 employees.

There is one full time manager whose main duties include operations analysis, inventory control, placing orders and overseeing all staff issues. Reagan continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

Cell Therapy

Anti-Oxidant Boost MEG 21 Anti-Oxidant Boost with Supplamine® combines the power of Supplamine with anti-oxidant extracts of

Indian gooseberry and grape seed to provide the ultimate skin-cell therapy to fight skin stress resulting

from glycation, free radicals and oxidative stress. With

the added anti-oxidant boost, this lightweight treat-

ment will not only reduce the appearance of fine lines

and wrinkles but also reduce irritation, to give your complexion a more youthful, radiant glow.

Clinical study with Supplamine Positive results after 28 days — Applied twice a day Patients’ skin displayed: an increase in elasticity and collagen, smoother and firmer skin, fewer wrinkles, more hydration.

While reducing: oxidative stress, inflammation, free radicals, collagen depletion.

Visit our booth 713 at Miami ICES April 7&8 www.MEG 21.com a portion of the proceeds from each MEG 21 product supports cancer research Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #344 on reader service card

spa of the month|bella reina day spa praised the manager’s ability to find the lowest prices, and credits her for the drop in supply costs last year. There are also two full time spa coordinators or “expeditors,” as Reagan calls them, who are responsible for bookings, call backs, mailing birthday cards and controlling of the flow of guests. As expeditors, they assist the therapists with changing the room over. Reagan has a keen sense of leadership and requires attendance at weekly staff meetings where performance numbers are shared. There is a handbook of guidelines that the employees must follow.

Reagan’s guidance and the efforts of the team have produced fantastic results. Reagan recently treated the entire staff to a day at the White Orchid Spa in Vero Beach, FL as a reward for taking part in achieving Bella Reina’s best year ever!

The Delray Beach area has no shortage of spas. With so much area competition, Reagan has been forced to become a marketing whiz, and says that she loves that part of the job! She has a well defined message and a 12 month advance plan to get customers engaged in various ways. When I met with her, she was planning one of her quarterly special events, which she refers to as a “pop up shop.” The purpose of this event was to introduce her spa’s custom blended makeup. Requiring an RSVP, it was held at the spa in the evening, featuring a guest makeup artist, champagne and cupcakes. Another ongoing in house tactic at Bella Reina is giving away gift bags containing samples and spa literature to new clients. One promotion that

was particularly well received was the $25 gift cards that could be used toward a minimum purchase of $80. To integrate her social media, search marketing, email and publicity releases into one software, Reagan uses Vocus, an online marketing dashboard. She credits it for making the connection that led to the aforementioned story in The New York Times. The Bella Reina website now holds a coveted high priority placement on online search engines.

There is a saying: “If it doesn’t challenge you, it doesn’t change you!” This First Lady of Health and Wellness, Nancy Reagan, has brought about a transformation in her own life, as well as that of so many others, by embracing both challenge and change. n

Kaffee Keldie has been a practicing esthetician since 1982. She has owned and operated Kaffee’s Garden Spa of West Palm Beach, FL for more than 12 years. The full service day spa promotes a message of wellness by offering holistic alternatives in treatments, home care products and special events. Keldie is the director of the National Aesthetic Spa Network for Florida.

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

Professional

Skin Care

Natural Naturaldefying defyingtreatment treatment for stressed skin skin for stressed

Comprehensive anti-aging anti-aging Comprehensive treatment treatment

Natural Natural powerful powerful peeling peeling

Correcting Correctingsun sundamage damage&& pigmentation disorders pigmentation disorders

Instant anti-aging & & Instant anti-aging pamper treatment pamper treatment

Anti-aging for mature skin

Blemish clearing & prevention treatment

•Miami - April 7-8 Booth 703/705 Classroom D231, 2pm Sunday and Certificate Classes! •Dallas - May 5-6 Booth 217/219 Super Bowl 2, Sunday May 5 at 2 pm.

Show Specials

Hyperpigmentation causes and treatment protocols.

Certificate awarded!

| Tel: 1-888-604-6268 (se habla espanol) | Fax: 1-941-296-7320 | Web: https://shop.christina-usa.com | E-mail: customerservice@christina-usa.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #107 on reader service card

skin

OSHA updates

by Sherry Taylor and Linda Rae

UNDER FEDERAL LAW, EMPLOYers of salons and spas must comply with Occu­pational Safety and Health Admin­ istration (OSHA) regulations or run the risk of incurring substantial fines.

The Hazard Communication Stand­ ard (HCS) is the part of OSHA that in­ cludes appropriate labeling, safety data sheets (SDS) and related employee train­ ing. New changes to the law are bringing the United States into alignment with the rest of the world through the Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labeling of Chemicals (GHS). According to the OSHA, this will further improve safety and health protection for all American workers.

New hazard classification The new HCS still requires chemical man­ ufacturers and importers to evaluate the chemicals they produce or import and provide hazard information to employers and workers by putting labels on con­ tainers and preparing safety data sheets.

However the old standard allowed chemi­ cal manufacturers and importers to convey hazard information on labels and material safety data sheets in whatever format they chose. The modified standard provides specific criteria for classification of health and physical hazards, as well as classifi­ cation of mixtures. The new labeling and safety data sheets will be more easily and universally understood, therefore lower­ ing risk in the workplace.

section format, ensuring consistency in the presentation of important protection information. Precautionary statements must also be provided.

Employee training Employers must ensure that all chemi­ cals in their workplaces have labels and safety data sheets, and that they are updated accordingly. Employee train­ ings on the revised labels and safety data sheets must be conducted and docu­ mented prior to the compliance effective date of December 1, 2013.

This ensures that when employees see the new labels and safety data sheets, they will be familiar with them, under­ stand how to use them and access the information effectively. This training is in addition to the current OSHA training requirements.

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For additional information, refer to www.osha.gov.

Sherry Taylor is a paramedical skin care instructor at Florida College of Natural Health, Fort Lauderdale, FL. Taylor can be reached at info@TaylorRae.net.

Linda Rae is the owner of Linda Rae Skin Care and the creator of a results-oriented pre/post facial plastic surgery program.

Rae can be reached at info@TaylorRae. net. In 2009 Taylor and Rae joined forces to form TaylorRaeConsulting and The Real World of Esthetics®.

COMPLETION DATES, REQUIREMENTS AND RESPONSIBILITY Completion Date

Requirements

Who is responsible?

December 1, 2013

Train employees on the new label elements and SDS format.

Employers

June 1, 2015

Comply with all modified provisions of this final rule, except those mentioned in the box on the right.

Chemical manufacturers, importers, distributors and employers

December 1, 2015

Distributors may ship prod­ ucts labeled by manufac­ turers under the old system until December 1, 2015.

June 1, 2016

Update alternative work­ place labeling and hazard communication program as necessary, and provide ad­ ditional employee training for newly identified physi­ cal or health hazards.

Employers

Transition Period

Comply with the current standard, or both.

All chemical manufacturers, importers, distributors and employers

Labels and safety data sheets Chemical manufacturers and importers will be required to provide a label that includes a harmonized signal word, pic­ togram and hazard statement for each hazard class and category. Revised safe­ ty data sheets will have a specified 16

As long as the employees have im­ mediate access to the information with­ out leaving their work area, safety data sheets may be kept in a binder or on a computer with a back-up, available for rapid access in case of a power outage or other emergency.

Owners may want to designate a person responsible for contacting manu­ facturers and/or distributors to obtain the new safety data sheets. Make sure you have one for each and every prod­ uct in your facility including cleaning products, alcohol, disinfectant, wax, hair/ nail care as well as all skin care and cos­ metics. In other words—everything! n

Source: www.osha.gov Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

Circadia Has Got You Covered!

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ICES Miami

Our environment requires daily protection with new levels of performance. Award-winning photo stabilizer Solastay速 S1 reduces sensitivity issues often associated with UV absorbers.

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caused directly or indirectly by UV exposure. This light lotion contains grape stem cell culture extract to enhance photo-protection and delay cell senescence. Fast absorbing with an elegant feel, this is your ideal daily use product.

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Committed to bringing you the latest technology in skin science through education and innovative product development.

800.630.4710 | Circadia.com

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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA

PRESENTED BY

Endorsed by:

CONTACT US TODAY FOR YOUR FREE SHOW PROGRAM:

1.800.471.0229 • LNEONLINE.COM 3929 Ponce de Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL 33134 USA: 305.443.2322 • FAX: 305.443.1664

THE TRENDSETTER OF BEAUTY

DALLAS TX ARLINGTON CONVENTION CENTER

May 5 & 6, 2013 There is no better time than now to reinvent your business and the way you serve your clients. The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Dallas, TX is the inspirational conference for spa and skin care professionals with the most informative educational sessions that encompass topics relevant to every sector of the industry.

It is also the event where you can meet and network with many other like-minded professionals, and the place where you can find an exhibitors’ floor flooded with the best companies in the business showcasing the most cutting-edge products and equipment!

ALL-INCLUSIVE ADMISSION INCLUDES: • All General Session Lectures and Demos • Medical facilities, Aesthetic and Wellness Center Track NEW • Salon/Spa Seminar Management

$60

• NASN-National Aesthetics Spa Network • Medical Esthetics Seminar • Medical Spa Business Seminar • Image Seminars

NEW

• Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar • AIA-Aesthetics International Association

2-DAY ALL-INCLUSIVE ADMISSION

• Spa Business Lounge NEW

$75 when you register after 04/19/13

• All Manufacturers’ Workshops • Exhibit Hall flooded with hundreds of exhibitors

THE AROMACHROMA TONE FACIAL COLORFUL VIBRATIONS matherapy, chromatherapy and sound therapy are becoming commonplace.

They are being paired more often with Western medical and cosmetic treat­ ments and protocols.

Principles of the AromaChroma Tone Facial Essential essence. Essential oils contain the vibrational elements that are the very “essence” of plants. Oil is used as the medium by which the essence of the plant is captured. Liquids are generally the most sensitive carriers of vibration. Essential oils have a volatility that enables them to evaporate into the air, and as they do, the aroma develops.

This is known as the spiritual nature of the essence. This metamorphosis from a visible oil into an invisible vibration

Essential oil

Color

Note

Chakra

Rose (centifolia)

Red

Top

Base, crown

Sandalwood

Orange

Base

Base, sacral

Bergamot

Yellow/Green

Top

Solar plexus, heart and crown

Marjoram

Green

Middle

Heart

Rosemary

Blue

Middle/top

Solar plexus, brow

Chamomile

Blue

Top

Throat, brow and crown

Lavender

Violet

Top

Crown

Page 26 • www.LNEONLINE.com

allows essential oils to enter into the realm of the spiritual plane. Essential oils not only cause chemical changes to occur in the bloodstream, they also have psycho-spiritual effects that respond to the color and aroma vibrations held within them.

The therapeutic qualities of an es­ sential oil are revealed by its color sig­ nature, and its note indicates its level of action.

Color rays Color vibrations come to Earth in the form of light vibrations by way of pure white sunlight, which forms a part of the electro-magnetic field. We only see approximately 40 percent of the elec­ tro-magnetic spectrum, and this part is known as the visible light spectrum.

Color vibrations can be compared to musical notes, with octaves of colors going up and down in scale. Within the visible spectrum there are 40 octaves of color vibrations, from the darkest of shades to the palest of tints. We require energy from all of the spectrum colors in order to be healthy. Colored light rays

BY NINA CURTIS

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photos: Shutterstock.com

THE AROMACHROMA TONE FACIAL is designed to treat the entire system of the client’s body. Aromatherapy, chro­ matherapy (color) and sound thera­ py (tone) are all used to stimulate the chakras (subtle energy centers in the body), as well as balance, restore and heal the physical body and the senses.

“Vibrational esthetics” offers a dy­ namic approach in helping to rebalance our clients’ “being” from the hectic lifestyles they lead. Many of them are probably highly stressed, overworked and undernourished. Vibrational es­ thetics treatment is ideal for rejuvenat­ ing, recharging and relaxing the body, mind and spirit.

As the demand for noninvasive beau­ ty and wellness treatments continues to grow, the use and application of aro­

skin

are “light” nutrition, penetrating every part of our being. It has become ac­ cepted that color has a profound effect on the mind, body and spirit. Each color vibration has a particular wave length and speed or frequency, and each color ray has its own specific life-enhancing quality and healing action. In the vis­ ible spectrum, red is the slowest vibra­ tion and has the longest wave length, while violet has the fastest vibration and shortest wave length. Cells are both light sensitive and light emitting struc­ tures, and when light vibration reach­ es the cells (i.e., the eyes, skin and our electromagnetic space), fine chemical changes occur that affect their behav­ ior and growth. In this way, the genetic and informational material of the cell’s DNA can be opened to healing. Light affects us at a cellular level, having a dynamic effect on our genetic makeup and the vibrational energy in our subtle bodies. All of our body systems move in harmony with natural rhythms, so our blood and bodily fluids flow in sympa­ thy with certain wave lengths of color.

Sound therapy Natural sounds such as acoustic musi­ cal instruments, chimes, bells, crystal bowls, tuning forks and the human voice all benefit the body with what is known as “vibrational nutrients.”

The sound of our own voice is one of the most healing vibrations there is. The sound of one saying “aaahhh” opens up the heart chakra and begins to re­

THIS IS A SUBTLE TREATMENT THAT OFFERS DYNAMIC VIBRATIONAL BALANCING AND HEALING RESULTS. balance our entire system, especially during bouts of disease and daily stress.

Chakras are energy centers or vi­ tal vortices within the body, which are interrelated with the parasympathetic, sympathetic and autonomous nervous systems. Chakra, a Sanskrit word, means “wheel,” and denotes circle and move­ ment. Essentially, the chakras are “spin­ ning wheels of energy.” Each chakra is a step by step plateau of desires, contain­ ing and moving great vital energy forces.

Try this exercise: Sit comfortably in your chair, slip your shoes off and place your feet flat on the floor. Place your hands over the center of your chest, take a deep breath and make the “aaah­ hh” sound as you exhale. Close your eyes and feel the healing, soothing and calming vibrations spread through your body. Do this for as long as you feel you

Color

Sympathetic gland/chakra region

Sympathetic body organ

Body system/ sympathetic frequency

Red

Adrenals

Kidneys, bladder

Muscles, blood

Orange

Ovaries/testes

Sexual organs, colon

Digestion, lymphatic system

Yellow

Pancreas

Liver, gallbladder, spleen

Autonomic nervous system

Green

Thymus

Heart

Circulation, para-sympathetic nervous system

Blue

Thyroid

Para-thyroid, throat, ears

Respiration, venous blood

Indigo

Pituitary

Lower brain, eyes, nose

Skeleton, bones

Violet

Pineal gland

Upper brain, head

Central nervous system, spine and psyche

April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

need to, at least three times in repeti­ tion. Have a glass of water afterwards and proceed with what you were doing.

This is an excellent exercise you can teach your clients to use daily.

Combining aromatherapy, chroma­ therapy and sound therapy all together during a single treatment produces “vibrational esthetics.” These aspects can also be applied to body therapy and reflexology.

Creating an oasis of well-being I often have clients tell me that the Nile Institute is their “safe haven,” where they come to renew, relax and rejuve­ nate themselves. This puts a smile on my face, as that is exactly my intent.

When clients enter the Nile Institute, they are introduced to subtle aromas in the air and soothing music that be­ gins to bring them down a few octaves from the hustle and bustle of their day.

I often diffuse lavender and ber­ gamot in the air, and sounds of crystal bowls or chimes can be heard in the background. This subtly sets the tone, and I find it has a profound effect on my clients, their energy and their ability to further relax, even before we begin the treatment.

The AromaChroma Tone Facial Procedure Duration: 1 hour The AromaChroma Tone Facial affects all of the senses, and clients will often say that they can see the color of an aroma they smell or even taste it in their throat. Sometimes a client can see the color of the gemstone that I’ve laid over a certain chakra, even as their eyes are closed and they haven’t seen the stone that I’ve used. These experiences seem to heighten the client’s overall enjoy­ ment of the treatment.

Before beginning the treatment, thor­ oughly explain the principles and the benefits of the AromaChroma Tone Facial again. The principles may still be new to continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 27

skin|the aromachroma tone facial

the client, even though you would rec­ ommend and explain the concept of this treatment to them when they book it. The ideal client for this treatment is interested in mind/body therapies, but this may be their first time to actually experience something like this.

Once the client is lying down, be­ gin the session by using an essential oil of rose or sandalwood; this helps to ground them. Put one drop of the es­ sential oil in your hand, rub it in lightly and hover your hands over your client’s nose. Ask them to breathe deeply, visu­ alizing the color of deep pink, and allow the concerns of their day to slip away.

This will begin to melt away their stress, and help them to further relax. This is very important in the beginning of the treatment, to ensure that the client is receptive and open to the therapy and potential healing effect.

After analyzing and observing the face and skin, cleanse with an appro­ priate facial cleanser and rinse with lavender or chamomile tea water, then spritz the skin with an appropriate toner.

Steam the skin before the exfoliation and extraction process. Before turning the steamer on, place a felt ring in the mouth of your steamer. Make sure it fits in securely, and add a couple drops of one of the essential oils found on the chart above to begin having an effect on the solar plexus, heart and crown chakras. As the steamer runs, the scent of the essential oil will diffuse in the air

and permeate the room with the aroma, color and tone frequencies. This will be subtle but effective.

Next, take a few drops of jojoba oil in your hand, and place one drop of rose essential oil in the jojoba oil. Mix together, apply to the client’s skin and perform the massage, including the up­ per body and scalp. Use deep, relaxing and rhythmic movements to stimulate blood circulation and lymphatic flow.

Clients hold most of their tension in their upper body, and this is an impor­ tant aspect of the treatment that not only relaxes tensed upper body muscles but also the tensed muscles of the face.

Depending on the client’s skin con­ dition, apply a neutral facial mask mixed with one drop of rosemary essential oil, which will be antiseptic, cooling and toning to the skin, or rose essential oil which will be hydrating, calming and soothing. Cover the eyes with herbal eye compresses diffused with chamo­ mile tea water. Ask the client to rest their hands over the center of their chest and guide them through the sound toning (“aaahhh”) exercise mentioned previ­ ously. Have them repeat this at least three times.

The sound vibrations playing in the background should be of crystal bowls, chimes or acoustic instruments.

After 15 minutes, remove the mask and place a cool color compress on the face. Do this by soaking cotton wool in a bowl of cool water infused with two

CHAKRA

COLOR

TONE

GLAND

VOWEL

7

Crown

Violet-Magenta

B

Pineal

EEE (High)

6

Brow

Blue-Violet

A

Pituitary

EEE (or I)

5

Throat

Turquoise

G

Thyroid

EH

4

Heart

Green

F

Thymus

AH

3

Solar Plexus

Yellow

E

Liver, pancreas

OH

2

Sacral

Orange

D

Spleen, adrenals

OOO

1

Root

Red

C

Ovaries, gonads

UH

Page 28 • www.LNEONLINE.com

drops of lavender essential oil. Be sure to swish the water well before soaking the cotton wool, and press out any ex­ cess water. Cover the eyes with cham­ omile tea eye pads before placing the compress on the face. Ask the client to imagine breathing in a color shade of violet, and while doing so guide them to also visualize what they wish for, such as well-being, harmony, balance, energy, etc. Guide them through this process for five minutes.

After five minutes, remove the com­ press, spritz the skin with an appropri­ ate toner, hydrate and protect the skin with a suitable moisturizer.

Let the client relax and offer them a glass of lemon water or tea.

Once you have finished, invite the client to sit in your quiet room or other quiet area of your spa, giving them time to reflect.

They may share with you some very positive aspects of their experience the next time you see them. Encourage them to journal their thoughts and dreams afterwards for their own growth and healing.

This is a subtle treatment that of­ fers dynamic vibrational balancing and healing results. n

Nina Curtis is principal of Curtis Com­ munications, Nina Curtis & Associates and the Nile Institute. Curtis received her MBA from Pepperdine University and consults for leading companies in the personal care industry. With more than 20 years of experience, she holds certifications in aromatherapy, reflexology, acupressure and color light therapy. Curtis has been instrumental in the development of training programs for salons and spas nationwide.

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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skin|

smart ingredients

sophisticated skin care DNA, which contains multiple chromo­ phores. A chromophore is a molecule that is particularly attractive to light, and absorbs UV radiation, changing its color and/or structure. Without the use of a sunscreen, this interaction can generate abnormal DNA, and leads to potential carcinoma, or cancer.

3. It can re-configure its molecular structure to be able to contain the extra energy.

The problem with these methods of energy dissipation is that they are all potentially damaging or irritating to the skin, particularly the re-configuring of a molecule. Molecules are joined togeth­

C

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CM

MY

Page 30 • www.LNEONLINE.com

CY

SOLASTAY® S1 IS RECOGNIZED AS THE MOST EFFECTIVE PHOTOSTABILIZER ON THE MARKET, PARTICULARLY WHEN USED WITH AVOBENZONE AND OCTINOXATE.

What happens then to this extra energy that has been absorbed by the sunscreen? Much of the controversy surrounding chemical screens revolves around this question.

Once the chemical screen absorbs the ultraviolet radiation, the molecule enters a heightened energy state known as a singlet state. In the singlet state, the sunscreen is no longer capable of ab­ sorbing UV light, and therefore must lose this energy.

There are three ways the chemical sunscreen traditionally dissipates the additional energy: 1. It can radiate as light of a lower en­ ergy. This is known as fluorescence.

2. It can give off heat.

er with chemical bonds of a strict shape and a specific energy level. When more energy is absorbed by a molecule than its structure will accommodate, the mol­ ecule alters its shape to contain this extra energy. When this happens, it becomes a new chemical. These molecules are called adducts, and they can be dan­ gerous. Adducts can act like a foreign body, or combine with other materials.

With use of a quenching agent, however, this risk is greatly reduced.

A quenching agent is any material that deactivates a molecule in the excit­ ed, or singlet, state. The role of a pho­ tostabilizer such as Solastay® S1 is to “quench” the high energy level in the continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

CMY

K

photo: Goodluz /Shutterstock.com

AS PROFESSIONALS AND CONsumers, we have been taught that using a sunscreen is critical for the long term protection of the skin. With advances in sun care, we are now able to make safer and more effective sun protection prod­ ucts with the addition of breakthrough technologies.

The focus of this article is a new tech­ nology called Solastay® S1 (ethylhexyl methoxycrylene), which is categorized as a photostabilizer. First, let us briefly re­ view exactly what a sunscreen is, what it does, and the difference between physi­ cal and chemical sunscreens.

Quite simply, the purpose of a sun­ screen is to prevent ultraviolet radiation from interacting with the DNA and other structures in the skin. Physical sunscreens (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) are thought to mainly reflect light, rather than absorb the high energy, but this re­ mains debatable. A chemical sunscreen, also known as a UV filter or a UV absorb­ er, intercepts and absorbs the energy of the photons before they can reach the

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sunscreen by accepting this extra energy from the sunscreen itself. This allows the sunscreen molecules to return to a nor­ mal, or ground state, and again absorb UV light. The key concept to remember is that the excited molecule (in the sunscreen) transfers its high energy to a nearby accepting molecule (the photostabilizer, or quenching agent), which dissipates the high energy of the donating molecule. The quenching molecule is able to dissipate this extra energy safely and enter into the quenching reaction over and over.

Possibly the most intriguing aspect of this ingredient tech­ nology is that these processes are occurring sequentially, each in less than one thousandth of a second.

INCREASING SOPHISTICATION IN THE DEVELOPMENT OF “SMART” FUNCTIONAL RAW MATERIALS PROVIDES FORMULATORS WITH THE HIGHEST DEGREE OF PRODUCT PERFORMANCE. Solastay® S1 is recognized as the most effective photo­ stabilizer on the market, particularly when used with avoben­ zone and octinoxate. This product makes sunscreens not only safer, but more effective as well. It has also been shown to reduce photosensitivity associated with the use of chemical screens. This allows adequate sun protection, particularly for skin types with sensitivity issues including rosacea, acne and nonspecific dermatitis.

Increasing sophistication in the development of “smart” functional raw materials provides formulators with the high­ est degree of product performance. The true art of cosmetic chemistry requires superior ingredients in the effective dose concentrations. The client then can enjoy an elegant product that is pleasant to use and also provides a cumulative improve­ ment in their appearance. n

Michael Q. Pugliese is the CEO of Circadia by Dr. Pugliese and the Circadia Institute of Advanced Esthetics.

Pugliese and his grandfather, Peter T. Pugliese, M.D., hold in-depth classes on a variety of subjects, including cosmetic chemistry and histology of the skin. Pugliese is a licensed esthetician in the state of Pennsylvania, and holds a degree in business management and marketing from Kutztown University.

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Page 32 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #285 on reader service card

CONCIERGE

aesthetics

ARE YOU EMBRACING THE NEW age of anti-aging procedures? Products and treatments that tout “results” have become more commonplace, and the medical aesthetic concept has hit the ground running with non-invasive and minimally invasive rejuvenation proce­ dures. Aestheticians are moving away from the spa concept into skin care facili­ ties that target treatments and sell prod­ ucts to deliver results. These aesthetic en­ trepreneurs are faced with the apparent reality that their practice cannot evolve unless they go medical. On the contrary, Page 34 • www.LNEONLINE.com

the aesthetic entrepreneur is the key to concierge aesthetics and the rejuvenation revolution. He/she counsels and helps cli­ entele discover the path to optimal skin health and vibrance. Concierge aesthet­ ics is more than a referral system; it’s a guide to aging gracefully and building a successful skin care practice.

Cultural and personal perceptions of beauty and aging are open to inter­ pretation and argument. Therefore, an example of the characteristics of grace­ ful aging is in order. Images of models in magazines is simply unrealistic, although

it could be argued that we are “pho­ toshopping” ourselves out of the real­ ity of aging. A more realistic example are the stars we have seen at the recent movie awards ceremonies. Look at the faces of Halle Berry (46), Helen Hunt (49), Julianne Moore (52), Angela Bassett (54), Sigourney Weaver (63) and Sally Field (66), to name just a few. Each of these women has a fit body, firm face, even skin tone and little to no lines or wrinkles.

They are aging gracefully, and it does not come naturally. Chemical peels, in­ jections and lasers cannot do it alone.

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photo: AISPIX by Image Source/Shutterstock.com

BY TINA ZILLMANN

skin It takes a strategic treatment path and progression to achieve virtually flawless skin. This all begins with a consultation.

Aestheticians new to the profession are taught to observe the obvious: Fitzpatrick rating, lines, oil, hyperpigmen­ tation, redness, acne, etc. A Concierge of Aesthetics takes the skin analysis to a whole new level. Aside from what is present in the skin now, aestheticians should consider the following questions:

• What is some of the underlying damage that has not surfaced?

• What are the client’s skin care habits? What steps has he/she taken to improve their skin?

• What is the client’s ethnic background?

• What progressive treatment path are you, their skin care provider, going to create for this client?

Look into the future of the client’s skin and observe its characteristics in a whole new way. Explore a variety of resources to gain insight into treatments, and know the trends in beauty. A comprehensive knowledge of treatments and ingredi­ ents can open the door to customized facial protocols with a controlled out­ come. Knowledge also gives you the power to be realistic about what specific products and procedures can accom­ plish and guide clientele to real results— not false promises. Understanding this, every client’s treatment path should be­ gin with an at-home cosmeceutical skin care regimen.

Aesthetic and medical aesthetic treat­ ments will not be as effective if they are not complemented with a regimented skin care routine at home. An aesthetic concierge should retail a professional cos­ meceutical skin care line that will promote a change in the way the skin looks and feels. The most fundamental ingredient that can prevent many signs of aging and skin damage is sunscreen, which should be used daily. If the client has problems with acne, products with benzoyl per­ April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

oxide, salicylic acid, retinol or tretinoin can help prevent breakouts and man­ age the condition. Over the counter retinol and prescription tretinoin are also fundamental ingredients for age prevention. They may be alternated with a glycolic acid based exfoliant at night for healthy skin regeneration. A daily vi­ tamin C serum under a sunscreen offers antioxidant protection that can prevent collagen degradation and skin damage.

Innovative amino peptides have the potential to offer a topical neurotoxin effect or promote collagen synthesis for more youthful skin and wrinkle preven­ tion. Retailing should be an integral part of any aesthetic practice because it can promote better looking skin. Selling key products to clientele initiates the mu­ tual commitment necessary from both parties to change the skin.

Having the confidence and knowl­ edge to take a client’s result to the next level is a rewarding experience. Medical aesthetic treatments can be instrumental in improving facial volume while diminish­ ing fine lines, wrinkles, solar lentigines and capillary damage. An aesthetician does not need to be employed by a physi­ cian in order to have medical aesthetic procedures available to his/her clientele.

Inversely, why should a physician employ an aesthetician when a referral relationship may be more beneficial? Professional net­ working between a physician and aesthe­ tician is an excellent way for both parties to build and gain business. A physician should refer patients out to an aestheti­ cian for routine skin care maintenance treatments and post-procedural care as­ sistance. In turn, an aesthetician will re­ fer clientele to the physician‘s practice for injections, laser procedures, surgical and/or minimally invasive procedures.

The formula is very simple:

Need + solution = success Clients have a need to look younger and age gracefully. An aesthetic concierge has the knowledge, talent and network to offer a beautiful solution. Building a network of physician referrals requires attention to reputation and experience.

Choose talented and esteemed medi­

PROFESSIONAL NETWORKING BETWEEN A PHYSICIAN AND AESTHETICIAN IS AN EXCELLENT WAY FOR BOTH PARTIES TO BUILD AND GAIN BUSINESS. cal professionals for his/her knowledge and service to patients. The Aesthetic Concierge will have connections to a good dermatologist who can address common skin problems and conditions (cancers, acne, rosacea, etc.) that need medical attention. Most aestheticians primarily see women in their treatment rooms; therefore knowing a gynecol­ ogist is ideal for consulting on skin problems that may be related to fe­ male hormones. A plastic surgeon may have the most resources to contribute to an aesthetician’s business because he/she has the knowledge and proce­ dures that can change an individual’s image. Physicians are best utilized for their professional talent. Aesthetic nurses (and in some states aestheticians) are trained to perform injection and/or la­ ser procedures under the guidance of the physician. An aesthetician simply polishes and perfects the results by performing routine maintenance with cosmeceutical skin care products and facial treatments. A good professional network will allow for a mutual promo­ tion of services between the physician and aesthetician. This is success.

Creating the rejuvenation revolution for your client by strategically combin­ ing home care, a treatment path and medical procedure is a rewarding longterm relationship. In order to embrace the concept and apply it into a practice, let’s review it in terms of key age groups:

The childbearing years Signs of aging are becoming a reality for a woman when she reaches her 30s.

Depending on the amount of sun damage present, she is experiencing the devel­ continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 35

skin|concierge aesthetics opment of fine lines and an uneven skin tone. Addressing the sun damage with a glycolic exfoliant, vitamin A, vitamin C and sunscreen in her regimen may encourage healthy skin rejuvenation at home and help maintain her treatment results. Lines that develop on the glabel­ la, forehead and around the eyes (crow’s feet) may be remedied with neurotox­ in injections, and a series of light laser peels each year may help her maintain her youthful appearance.

In some cases, women in this age group experience hormonal changes and the development of hormonal hyper­ pigmentation (melasma) and centralized acne on the chin and jaw. Depending on the severity of her acne, she will need to manage the condition in order to pre­ vent potential scarring and inflammation.

Depending on her sensitivity level and whether or not she is pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding, she may be able to help manage the breakout with salicylic acid and/or benzoyl per­ oxide. In some cases, a prescription an­ tibiotic and tretinoin or birth control will be needed from a physician (preferably a dermatologist and a gynecologist) to manage acne. Active acne may induce hyperpigmentation. Therefore, the acne must be managed before proceeding into an effective treatment for melas­ ma. A combination of brightening skin care at home and chemical peels, with or without microdermabrasion, may vis­ ibly brighten the skin, diminish fine lines and improve hydration.

Middle age A woman who did not take care of her skin in her 30s can have signs of sun damage in her 40s. She is likely to have fine lines around her eyes, glabella and forehead; her lips will also be starting to show fine lines—especially when her lipstick is ap­ plied and the pigment “bleeds” into the lines. She may begin to develop puffy eyes while losing some of the volume in her face as a result of collagen changes and fat loss. Home rejuvenation is needed in order to give her successful treatments, and should include effective ingredients like glycolic acid, vitamin A, vitamin C, Page 36 • www.LNEONLINE.com

hyaluronic acid, amino peptides and sun­ screen with beneficial or cosmeceutical percentages. She may be able to use a prescription tretinoin to address any sun damage. From possible prescription care to cosmeceutical rejuvenating ingredients, home care may account for the majority of results that are achieved and maintained.

In the Concierge Aesthetician’s treatment room, alternating hydrating ultrasonic facials with microdermabra­ sion every four to six weeks may assist with evening her skin tone, improving hydration and minimizing the appear­ ance of fine lines. Initially investing in a photofacial series can help address the hyperpigmentation and possible capil­ lary damage in her skin, while neurotoxin and filler injections may be performed by a medical professional to address any dynamic wrinkle development and volume loss of the face. Maintaining a series of light laser peels annually and keeping up with her injection appoint­ ments may help the client maintain her improved appearance well into her 50s.

Perimenopause As the body changes and prepares itself for menopause—if it has not already happened— a woman in her 50s could be experiencing a dramatic difference in her skin. The combination of hormonal changes and environmental damage has resulted in dehydrated skin with wrinkles, volume loss and sagging skin.

A home regimen that includes amino peptides, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, vitamin A, glycolic acid and sunscreen may help maintain her skin, improve hydration and promote softer skin. In some cases, a cosmeceutical moistur­ izer with progesterone may be needed to address hormonal dryness.

Depending on her commitment (mentally and financially) to rejuvena­ tion, the 50-something woman’s first step to rejuvenation should be to address her sagging skin with a plastic surgeon. As of today, facelift procedures are a viable option. If this is the path she chooses, the Aesthetic Concierge may guide her through her healing process under the direction of the surgeon by performing

hydrating treatments, while assisting with lymphatic drainage to help lessen her re­ covery time. Her rejuvenation revolution does not stop with surgery; she may need a photofacial series to correct any pig­ mentation irregularities, dark and deep sunspots and vascular lesions. To help fill lost facial volume and minimize dynamic wrinkle development, injectable fillers or a fat transplant may be performed. Keep in mind that depending on the type of facelift performed, neurotoxin injections may not be needed. Aesthetic treatments combining the benefits of chemical peels, ultrasonic infusion and crystal-free micro­ dermabrasion may be performed every four to six weeks to help maintain her skin and protect her investment.

These three generic examples may not suit every skin type the Aesthetic Concierge may treat, but they may be used to understand product and treat­ ment recommendations in a new way.

With practice and education, the skills and resources an Aesthetic Concierge learns may enable them to give every client what they want: 10 years taken off their skin. Develop a personal com­ mitment to education and business by forging a strong relationship with clien­ tele and building a network of well per­ forming professional referrals. Working from this foundation, a professional re­ lationship with your clients may result in solid growth and a bright future. n

Tina Zillmann is a practicing esthetician and vice president and director of Skin Rejuvenation Clinique, Inc. and Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. She is a nationally recognized public speaker and published writer in the skin care industry. Zillmann has received the Female Entre­ preneur of the Year award from the National Association of Women Business Owners, and served as the president of Aesthetic International Association for 2009-2010.

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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by Kristina Valiani

skin|

checklist for choosing wisely

making the most of your professional line partnership

Page 38 • www.LNEONLINE.com

retailers receive assistance by phone or email. This ensures that retailers are responded to in a timely manner. Skin care companies that are independent­ ly owned or experiencing tremendous growth may simply lack the number of employees to serve rapidly increasing

interaction with customers should at least have minimal knowledge of all the prod­ ucts and services your business offers.

Attending professional trade shows is a practical way to discover and truly evaluate skin care lines. These events provide an excellent opportunity to net­

In the spa industry, knowledge really is power.

It is important to commit to product lines that offer education. Proper education is essential to providing optimal service to your clients, and it also empowers your staff.

customer demand. Conversely, there are benefits to working with smaller skin care lines. They are usually more flexible, ac­ commodating and willing to show that they appreciate your business. A skin care line that is retailed in 100 locations will value your individual business more than a company whose line is sold in 1,000 locations.

In the spa industry, knowledge really is power. It is important to commit to product lines that offer education. Proper education is essential to providing op­ timal service to your clients, and it also empowers your staff. You cannot sell something if you don’t know it exists.

That is why every employee who has any

work with different brands in-person, collect educational materials and attend vendors’ classes to learn more about the companies and products. This saves time and gives you a chance to evalu­ ate packaging, try different products and start forming valuable business re­ lationships. n

Kristina Valiani is a licensed esthetician, and the sales and education manager for the West Coast for B. Kamins. Valiani conducts professional trainings and teaches continuing education classes for estheticians around the nation.

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photo: Medvedi Production/Shutterstock.com

EVERY BUSINESS COMES WITH challenges, and owning a spa or salon is no different. The policies, staff team and services you offer all impact your clientele and reputation. However, there are important decisions that affect each of these components of your business and more. The products you choose to use in the treatment room and offer for retail purchase will shape your busi­ ness as well as influence your bottom line. Owners and spa directors need to consider several factors when selecting products, while keeping in mind that the skin care lines they use are also a representation of their business’ brand.

Whether you are a new spa or an es­ tablished location evaluating new skin care lines, doing careful research before bringing in a product can save time and money. There are always advantages and disadvantages of working with any com­ pany. That is why it is essential to find skin care lines that support the specific needs of your business.

Exceptional business-to-business cus­ tomer service should also be a priority for all companies, yet this is not necessarily standard. Return policies, product guar­ antees and even simple expectations such as having a phone call returned can vary immensely from one company to the next. Large corporations often have procedures that outline how their

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POWER COUPLE Brides and their bridal parties will say “I do” to an acne-free complexion on the big day with the powerful teamwork of Control Corrective’s Exfo Tonic and Sensitive Skin Enzyme Mask.

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Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals’ 2013 Antiox Ex-Fusion Signature Treatment is a facial that exfoliates dead layers and infuses the skin with antioxidant, essential moisture and protection, says the company. The treatment begins with the Liquid Enzyme Peel, an exfoliant that combines an enzyme with low-strength acids, leaving skin stimulated, smooth and polished. Exfoliation is taken a step further with the Derma Peel, a potent dose of peptides and antioxidants in the treatment that tone the skin and provide relief from free-radical damage. www.rhondaallison.com 866.313.7546

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3 MINUTE BOOST If your bridal client’s skin needs enhancement in a hurry, the Flash Radiance Mask from Decléor is the perfect solution.

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OVERNIGHT SOLUTION Pre-wedding bridal breakouts require powerful, immediate action—the perfect task for Christina Cosmeceuticals’ Night Treatment. This active, antibacterial cream, formulated with kojic acid and retinol palmitate, enhances skin renewal during sleep. Advise your client to apply this treatment before bed, and they will wake up to bright, smooth skin and a noticeable decrease in breakouts, says the company. www.christina-cosmeceuticals.com 888.604.6268

On the last few days before the wedding, brides can benefit from the 5 Night Skin Resurfacing Cream from eraclea®.

The innovative, at-home treatment improves skin’s smoothness, tone and clarity after just five nights of consecutive use, says the company.

This overnight, leave-on mask uses trichloroacetic acid to enhance the skin’s texture while also minimizing the appearance of acne, scarring, hyperpigmentation and surface wrinkles for a flawless, cameraready complexion. The key behind the formula is the patented HylaSponge® system, a complex made up of three forms of hyaluronic acid that delivers essential moisture to both the surface and the deeper layers of the skin. www.eracleaskincare.com 817.546.5341 Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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spa

soft targets: safeguarding your spa

by Denise R. Fuller

Training and awareness International security measures have been implemented in the hotel industry due to the increase in suicide bombings. On some hotel properties, guests must walk through metal detectors. Some properties even have bomb sniffing dogs.

Page 44 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Control access Kaffee Keldie, owner of Kaffee’s Garden Day Spa in West Palm Beach, FL, was recently approached by a guest who expressed concern about the front door of the spa being left unlocked. Keldie has been in the same location for the last 15 years without incident, but this guest’s apprehension made her think differently about the safety of her guests and employees. How accessible is your spa? Could a

perpetrator sneak in through an emergency exit?

Soft targets are characteristically easily accessible, and may lack alarmed exits.

A simple way to minimize a soft target’s desirability is to reduce the number of active in and out routes.

This can be done in a variety of ways.

Door and window alarms or key card access systems can be installed. Security checkpoints (both high and low tech) can also be implemented for an added layer of deterrence. In addition to physical access control, information access should be monitored closely—maps, facilities layouts and other resources should be controlled, and access should only be given to those who really need it.

No single strategy or collection of strategies fits all businesses for managing an emergency situation. Many are afraid to voice their concern, let alone prepare for the unthinkable. However, fear creates a lack of information and conflicting messages. Fear and its source are best managed by education, communication and preparation. n Denise R. Fuller is the editor-in-chief of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She is an Australian certified beauty therapist and a licensed esthetician, nail technician and body wrapping instructor for the state of Florida. She has trained spa professionals around the world, owned a skin care distribution company and has been recognized by Cambridge Who’s Who. Fuller founded the National Aesthetic Spa Network, and she is passionate about building relationships, developing partnerships, mentoring and networking to create a stronger industry.

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photo: Auremar/Shutterstock.com

I F YO U F O L L OW C U R R E N T events, you are probably aware that multiple acts of violence have taken place in spas and hotels throughout the U.S. in the last couple of years. Have you or your management team responded by taking steps to equip the building with more security, or to educate your employees on an emergency plan of action?

Despite the alarming reports of violent incidents, many businesses are reluctant to implement additional safety measures that could possibly inconvenience or scare off loyal clients. Many small businesses, including day spas, aren’t exactly sure what they could do to ensure a safer environment for their patrons.

If you work at a salon, spa, hotel, shopping mall or resort, you are considered a “soft” target. Law enforcement classifies a business or location that is relatively unprotected against an attack as a soft target. Intelligence analysts and law enforcement experts consider suicide bombings, sniper fire, car and truck bombs “attacks.” A “hard” target would be a federal building or police station, due to the increased security measures placed at the entrance of the facility. As an industry unaccustomed to utilizing security measures in our business practices, what do we do?

Improving security at a soft target location entails providing training to employees. Contact local law enforcement and have them do a walk through of your facility to assess its safety. Or hire a security firm that specializes in safeguarding soft targets. The Department of Homeland Security offers awareness courses for soft targets.

As a team, collectively create an action plan, and be aware of your fellow employees. Do you know of any members of your team who have restraining orders out against estranged or former spouses? If so, have you contacted the mall security or management and made them aware of the situation? Take all threatening comments, emails, voicemail messages or Facebook posts seriously. These could include hints or blatant statements of planned mass violent attacks or even suicide. Some of the recent attacks that took place in spas were murder-suicides.

Don’t assume it couldn’t happen to you or your facility. Between 2011 and 2012, the unthinkable happened in Cali­ fornia, Florida, Georgia and Wis­consin, where employees and guests were shot and killed at spas.

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let your gut guide you What is intuition?

The word intuition is derived from the Latin word intveri, which literally translates to mean “to look inside.” How does intuition affect our treatments? We live in a society that is extremely analytical, and negatively views beliefs that conflict with our own. But haven’t we all had moments where we felt as if something was not quite right? Have we not acted upon that feeling and followed our intuition? Intuition is what enables us to know something without analyzing it first; it links the conscious and unconscious mind together. We all are familiar with terms and sayings such as “gut feeling,” “listen to your gut,” “the gut knows,” or “follow your inner voice.” As therapists, Page 46 • www.LNEONLINE.com

we use our intuition upon touching our clients, and utilize the unspoken message to guide us in our treatment. With intuition, we rely on our five senses (sight, hearing, taste, smell and touch) to locate the “blockage” and correct the imbalance.

Research has proven that there is an intimate connection between the brain and the stomach. The brain has a direct effect on the stomach; intestinal distress can be caused by stress, anxiety and even depression. The stomach has been nicknamed “the second brain,” and is sometimes referred to as the “back up brain.”

If we look at the history of intuition based therapies, we are referring to holistic wisdom treatments. They have been practiced globally for over 6,000

years, yet only about 80 years in the U.S. Intuition based therapies include reflexology, reiki, polarity therapy, chakra balancing, acupuncture/acupressure and Ayurveda, to name a few familiar ones.

With intuition based therapies, the underlying principle focus is on energy, the vital life force, which is the active principle of any living thing and starts at conception. In Chinese culture, the energy is referred to as Chi/Qi; in India, Prana; Japan, Ki; Hawaii, Mana; and the Western world, vital energy. The literal translation means “breath, gas or air.” The best recognized symbol of Oriental philosophy is

BY GOLDIE BONNELL Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photo: Legenda/Shutterstock.com

INTUITION BASED TREATMENTS

spa

the Yin and Yang symbol, better known as the Taiji symbol when translated into great polarity. The Taiji Symbol represents the ancient Eastern philosophy of how everything in life works. The outer circle represents “everything,” while the black and white within the circle represents the interaction between Yin (black) and Yang (white). The symbol is not completely black and white, as life is not this way, and it cannot exist without one or the other.

The term energy in intuition healing therapies unites body, spirit and mind, a universal life force within all living things.

Every therapy with intuition is aimed at healing and balancing your vital life force, which restores balance and promotes a sense of well being. When energy is unbalanced, stagnant or fixed, it will start off as stress. If not addressed, it will lead to di-stress, then disease ... and ultimately death is possible.

Intuitive therapies utilize the individual’s innate resource to improve the state of mind and/or health conditions.

Intuitive based therapies tap into the individual to re-balance, and bring insight into any existing problem.

There are a wide variety of energybased modalities, involving both handson healing and non-touch treatments, all of which focus on using the body’s own natural energy flow to improve health, reduce pain, anxiety, fatigue and a myriad of health conditions.

The healthiest country in the world is Japan. The healthiest continent is Europe, where the practice of intuition therapies has been integrated into the culture.

The typical approach for traditional therapy has been to have the client complete a consultation card and customize a treatment plan based on specific concerns presented. We need to be more open minded and treat the body as a whole to achieve complete total body wellness.

In my many years of teaching Eastern philosophy or intuitive based therapies, I would know something about each of my students after simply having a conversation with them. With their permission, I April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

would touch their arm, foot or stomach and receive an image of a problem. I would intuitively know how to help them rebalance. I often found blocked energies and issues they were not even conscious of. Intuition helps to access a deeper layer of stored emotions and whatever needs to be released. It is often uplifting and healing to have the support of a professional.

Intuition is a different level of perception, arriving at the answer without going through the normal process of using logic and analyzing. Intuition based treatments help the client to uncover what they may consciously be aware of, and releases the source of the presenting problem. If you are unbalanced, you may feel stuck and have an overall sense of not feeling well. Intuition based therapies assist in balancing the mind, body and spirit (your true self, who you are and what you do).

Intuition based therapies are utilized in dealing with conscious and unconscious feelings, in which the client is feeling a certain way and would like to feel differently. Some of the common underlying issues are dissatisfaction with work, regrets, anxiety, depression, relationship issues, family issues (dating as far back as childhood), phobias, fears, grief, loss, self image, eating issues and any other matters that negatively impact their life. When performing a skin, body or holistic therapy, we must create a perfect client experience, not just with the treatment, but also with the ambiance and advice.

In order to get a better understanding of therapies that are initiated by intuition, let’s take a look at some of them.

Reflexology Reflexology has been used as a therapy dating as far back as 4000 BC by the Chinese, and 2330 BC in Egyptian culture. The evidence of this therapy was found on an ancient Egyptian physician’s tomb in Saqqara, a vast, ancient burial ground in Memphis, the capital of Egypt. It was here that two men were sitting together, and one was working

on the other’s foot. The inscription of hieroglyphics translates to say: “Do not hurt me, I shall act so you praise me.”

Suffice to say, there is some confusion about the true origin of this amazing therapy, but it has stood the test of time and assisted many to achieve better health. Modern reflexology is based on the ancient form of this intuitive therapy, and has been practiced in the U.S. since 1942.

William Fitzgerald, M.D., developed the modern “zone therapy” of the human body in the early 20th century.

Since ancient times, healers have tried various methods to strengthen and balance the energy flow. Therapies such as acupressure, shiatsu and reflexology are based on the belief that our energy flows in zones or meridians throughout the body. The reflexes on our feet and hands correlate with the mirror images of the body. Dr. Fitzgerald believed that by applying pressure to specific areas of the body, an anesthetic response would occur in a corresponding area. This research was further explored by Joseph Shelby Riley, M.D., and physiotherapist Eunice Ingram worked with him as well.

In the 1930s, Ingram further developed reflex zone therapy while working with her patients. She concluded that since zones run throughout the body and could be accessed anywhere, some areas might be more accessible and effective than others. She was right!

Eventually she mapped the entire body on the feet and discovered that an alternating pressure on various points had therapeutic effects beyond the limited use to which zone therapy had been previously employed, mainly to reduce pain. Zone therapy is based on the concept that the body is divided into 10 equal vertical zones, five on each foot and five zones in each big toe. There are 10 energy zones running through the length of the body, from head to toe to arms to fingertips. These zones run or pass through the body, which means a zone on the front of the body can also be reached from behind. continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 47

spa|let your gut guide you

Reiki is a Japanese based practice that is performed by laying hands on a person to rebalance their life force energy. The word reiki is comprised of two Japanese words: rei, which means “God’s wisdom,” and ki, which means “life energy force.”

Therefore, it is spiritually guided. This intuition therapy focuses on stress reduction and relaxation, and creates an overall sense of well being. The touch and spiritual therapy aims at balancing our own energies. If our energy is low, we feel stressed and not well. If our energy is high, we are healthy and feel good. Reiki addresses emotional, physical, mental and spiritual imbalances, and creates total wellness for the entire body.

Polarity therapy Randolph Scott, an osteopath, naturopath and chiropractor, developed polarity theory throughout his 60 year medical career and passion for research. He found that the human energy field is affected by polarity, emotions, physical, mental, trauma, life experiences, diet, touch, diet, sound, attitudes and relationships. Polarity therapy is aimed at balancing one’s natural energy flow and maintaining good health.

This knowledge is based on the ancient technique that utilizes the three principle and five element theory used in Ayurveda. It works by rebalancing and opening up any blockages caused by physical or emotional upset. In Ayurveda, human energy is referred to as “Prana,” and in modern science, “electromagnetic forces” or the “principle of the atoms.”

The treatment involves gentle, non-invasive touch, rocking or stimulating an area with hands to move energy. This comprehensive therapy involves energy bodywork, diet, exercise and self-awareness. When energy becomes stagnant or blocked, it can develop into headaches, migraines, neck and back pain, and if left untreated it can develop into a serious health condition.

There are three types of energy fields in the human body: 1. Long line currents: Runs from North to South Page 48 • www.LNEONLINE.com

2. Transverse currents: Runs from East to West 3. Spiral currents: Starts at Hara (the navel) and expands to surrounding area

Chakra balancing Chakras are linked with the energy force of Prana. Prana is derived from Sankrit (one of the 22 languages spoken in India), and literally translates into “wheel, disc or turning.” Within our physical body resides our body double (spiritual body), which contains our chakras (energy centers) and the entry gates to our aura.

An aura is the human energy field that surrounds the physical body. It is threedimensional, and surrounds an individual in all directions. The colors will appear in various unusual shades and forms.

Each color has their general characteristic, and will change in order to reflect the current energy of the individual. The location of the color, intensity and the form are signs of what is taking place in that individual’s life.

The body contains seven main chakras, which are focused on rebalancing the body, using it’s own healing process. Our chakras dispel seven colors (although an eighth has been added) of the spectrum, known as color therapy. Color therapy in chakras intuitively shows the therapist which “energy level” the client is functioning on. When negative life experiences are “blocking“ the chakras, the colors reveal the issues. An aura can be weakened or thrown out of balance by negative habits such as a poor diet, stress, alcohol, drugs, tobacco and a lack of exercise, fresh air and sleep.

Let’s examine color therapy, and which chakra each color correlates with.

• Eighth: Turquoise - thymus chakra - divine intuition • Seventh: Purple/violet - crown chakra (top of the head) - self knowledge and spiritual awareness (spirituality) • Sixth: Indigo\black - third eye chakra - self responsibility (psychic abilities) • Fifth: Blue - throat chakra - self expression (power of creation/will)

• Fourth: Green - heart chakra love and self love (love) • Third: Yellow - solar plexus chakra - self worth (power/ego/greed) • Second: Orange/gold: sacral chakra - self - respect (creativity) • First: Red - base chakra - self awareness (survival) How can we heal and balance chakras that will affect our health?

• Using a pendulum (dowsing) and letting it perform balance through direction, size and speed • Color therapy, yoga and reiki What can clients do to maintain balance?

• Conscious breathing, exercise, meditation, aromatherapy and positive thinking By focusing on “balancing“ the chak­ ras themselves, we will also balance the physical, emotional and spiritual, and create a sense of well being.

acupressure

Acupressure The meaning of acupressure is the combination of two words—“hole” and “position.” These points serve as direct access openings to the meridians that have an effect on the internal organs of the body. The exact origin of this therapy is unknown, but the earliest written medical text dates back to the Yellow Emperor’s Inner Classic (Huang Di Nei Jang) around 2,000 years ago.

Acupressure is as old as intuition; it has been practiced in Asia for over 5,000 years. It incorporates the pressure continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photo: Praisaeng /Shutterstock.com

Reiki

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spa|let your gut guide you of fingers onto specific points on the surface of the skin to stimulate the body’s own self-healing mechanism. These are called tsubo/acupoints. There are about 365 tsubo points on the body (other points are on the ears and feet), and new points are continually being discovered. Typically, tsubo points are located in the valleys of muscles and joints. When a person is unbalanced or has an illness, the tsubo points feel very sensitive or even painful in response to finger pressure.

The body contains 12 meridians, which are named according to their corresponding organs. The meridians have lateral and symmetrical layers on the head, face, trunk, arms and legs. Meridians maintain balance and health throughout the body (skin, muscle and organs).

They transport your life energy, along with blood and bodily fluids that nourish your entire system. Acupressure assists in maintaining a healthy body by unblocking any imbalances.

Chi\qi\ki\prana is the life force or “universal energy.” These energies are either passive (Yin) or active (Yang). It is the journey of life, beginning at conception and ending with death. We receive 20 percent of our life force from our parents at conception, and 80 percent from our diet, environment and the breath we take. Our bodies use chi to accomplish daily living, and every organ and meridian is filled with our life energy to aid with the simplest or most complex task we have to perform. The yin energy flows from the feet to the head, and yang energy flows from the head to the feet.

Acupressure and acupuncture use the same points, but needles are used with acupuncture and firm finger pressure is used with acupressure. Acupuncture is one of the oldest and most common procedures used in the world. It became known in the U.S. in 1971, after James Reston wrote an article about this Chinese therapy in The New York Times.

Acupuncture is a technique that involves the penetration of a thin, metallic needle into tsubo points. Traditionally, it is manipulated by hands, and sometimes by electrical stimulation. Each Page 50 • www.LNEONLINE.com

client experiences needles at different levels; some feel more pain than others as needles are put into place. The more imbalances the person is afflicted with, the greater the discomfort they experience as the needles are inserted. Once needles are placed on the acupoint, any discomfort is diminished, followed by a sense of well being.

Ayurveda Ayurveda is an ancient healing system (according to text dating back as far as 5,000 years) that originated in India. It is based on diet, exercise, herbs and body therapies to help one meet life’s demands and embrace opportunities.

It is one of the oldest authentically recorded healing sciences that includes the health of the physical body, happiness of the mind and inspiration of the spirit. The meaning of Ayurveda comes from two parts of the word: “Ayu,” which means life, and “Veda,” which means knowledge or science. The literal translation of Ayurveda is “knowledge of life,” and it is also referred to as “the mother of all healing.” Marma points (vital energy points) have been the ancient healing system for thousands of years in India. Marmas are found all over the body, but are extremely concentrated on the face, neck and upper chest.

In Ayurveda, the belief is that everything in the universe is comprised of five great elements: Earth, water, fire, air and space/ether. The five Ayurvedic elements combine three dynamic forces known as doshas, which translates to mean “that which changes.” The three active doshas are Vata, Pitta and Kapha. The doshas are constantly moving, and are present in all living things in nature; they are necessary for life to happen. Ayurveda tailors the approach to one’s individual dosha or constitution. According to Ayurvedic philosophy, one’s constitution is determined at the time of conception, which is referred to as prakruti.

Prakruti is an individual and their constitution; it is as unique as one’s fingerprint and DNA. Vikruti adjusts to life’s influences and is always changing.

Ideally, one’s vikruti should match one’s prakruti as closely as possible. The further one’s vikruti is from their prakruti, the more out of balance they become.

Each dosha is made up of five elements, and each dosha is a combination of two elements.

VATA Elements: Space and air Some traits: • Highly imaginative • Often has racing and disjointed thoughts • Responds to stress with fear, worry and anxiety • Appetite is unpredictable • Tends to be lactose intolerant • Loathes routine Needs: • Trust • Feelings of safety and security • Needs to talk, very chatty • Should be spoken to firmly but gently • Eating at home is ideal PITTA Elements: Fire and water Some traits: • Sharp minded, focused • Self confident • Enjoys challenges • Intolerant, expects a lot of others • Has a strong appetite • Passionate and romantic • Likes to spend money and have beautiful things Needs: • Must be in control • Must look immaculate • Must be on time, can’t stand wasting time • Education • Three regular meals a day • Best suited for a totally vegetarian diet with limited salt intake KAPHA Elements: Earth and water Some traits: • Easygoing continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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spa|let your gut guide you Affectionate Forgiving Compassionate Has outstanding long term memory, remembers anything that is meaningful to them • Dislikes change • Likes to maintain harmony and peace • Is in excellent health • Typically skips breakfast, eats twice a day, with five to six hour gaps in between • Consumes large quantities of food, especially sweets • Tends to be possessive and hold onto things • Good at handling money and saving Needs: • Comfort • A slow and steady pace of life • Loving, dependent relationships • Routine • Loyalty • Exercise • Motivation and inspiration • Feeling needed

Shirodhara

The word Shirodhara has the following meaning: “shiro,” or head, and “dhara,” meaning to flow. This therapy is designed to rejuvenate spiritual, physical and emotional imbalances. A customized warm oil (sesame or coconut) is slowly poured over the third eye, according to dosha type. This is accomplished Page 52 • www.LNEONLINE.com

by utilizing a freestanding or hand held vessel (ideally copper) directly over the client’s forehead; the oil is captured in another vessel below the client’s head.

The flowing stream of warm oil creates a state of tranquility, well being and peaceful meditation. When the bottom bowl is full (it takes about 10 to 20 minutes to fill), the therapist massages the client’s scalp, neck and shoulders. In order to get the maximum result from Shirodhara, keeping the oil in the hair (24 hours) will continue to rebalance the client. To complete the entire rejuvenating treatment, the client is given the oil to take and utilize at home.

In the West, we are mostly Vatas or Pittas, due to our lifestyle and dietary habits. In the East, people are mainly Kaphas, as stress is generally not as great.

Indian champissage Champi is an original Indian word meaning “head massage.” It is based on the traditional Indian head massage that has been part of the culture for over 1,000 years. Champissage is part of Ayurvedic medicine. It is practiced within the medical arena and is part of the daily maintenance within the Indian culture.

Narendra Mehta, an osteopath and massage therapist, went to England to study physiotherapy. He was stunned to discover that head massage was not included in a full body massage, which stopped at the shoulders and neck. Mehta mentioned in one of his many stories that head/scalp massage was believed to cause brain injury. This false statement led him to develop his personalized and unique therapy of Champissage.

Mr. Mehta has been completely blind since the age of one, and therefore had developed an amazing sense of touch. He inspired and perfected his brainchild based on Indian head massage, calling it “Indian Champissage.”

Now he was ready to teach this amazing therapy to other professionals. He had over 25 years of experience in body work and various massage therapies.

In 1995 he opened the London Centre of Indian Champissage Inter­national

(L.C.I.C.). His wife, Kundan Mehta, later introduced “Natural Face Lift Massage.”

The Mehtas have both trained therapists in numerous countries.

For Champissage therapy, the client sits in a chair completely clothed, and no oils or massage creams are used. The therapy includes massage (performed with fingers) of the shoulders, upper arms, back of neck, scalp, ears and face.

It is one of the most wonderful and relaxing therapies I have ever experienced or performed. It provides soothing comfort and instantly relieves aches, pains and migraines. It also reduces symptoms of stress, aids with insomnia, promotes hair growth and rebalances your energy. I have personally experienced Champissage therapy at the hands of Mr. Mehta, and there are no words to describe the experience.

Intuitive therapeutic treatments take the body, mind and spiritual connection into consideration as a holistic approach to health and wellness. Offering intuitive therapies in your spa not only creates a unique dynamic but also a dimension of healing, which the guests will greatly benefit from. n *I had the honor and privilege of studying Indian Champissage with Narendra Mehta and his wife Kundan Mehta. I am dedicating this article to the late Narendra Mehta, who was a true friend and mentor.

Goldie Bonnell has more than 20 years of experience in the skin care and wellness industries. She has designed programs and client treatments for many spas. Bonnell has been involved in the building of training centers for The International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica.

Teaching is Bonnell’s passion, and she has been a featured speaker on numerous topics at industry trade shows throughout the U.S. and Germany.

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photo: Kzenon/Shutterstock.com

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spa|the pursuit of joy transformational therapy

Laughter yoga ... there is medicine in laughter Laughter yoga is a revolutionary idea that is as simple as it is profound. Created in India during the early 1990s by cardiologist Madan Kataria, laughter yoga combines unconditional laughter with yogic breathing. During a 20 minute session, group instructors use a blend of playful techniques that inPage 54 • www.LNEONLINE.com

MUSIC HELPS US GET OUT OF OUR MINDS AND BE MORE “IN THE MOMENT.”

When we laugh, our bodies release a cocktail of hormones and chemicals that have a surprisingly positive effect on our system. Stress is reduced, the immune system is strengthened, depression is lifted, blood pressure drops, pain is relieved and we just simply feel good!

Music therapy ... tapping into the rhythm of life Music accompanies us throughout our lifetime. It is capable, through sound, of proposing feelings that are so powerful they can change or influence the places where it is played and people’s frame of mind. A great joyfulness and vitality

are created when we pound on drum hides, promoting communication and a collective union, joining us with one another through general enthusiasm.

Music helps us get out of our minds and be more “in the moment” as we focus on our involvement in making traditional percussion instruments sing. It is almost impossible to think worrisome thoughts while pounding against a drum skin, listening to the sounds that others are making and following an instructor.

Being more aware makes us realize how much joy there is. No prior musical experience is necessary for this type of activity. The extrovert action of playing a drum bestows the instrument with the rare quality of becoming a spiritual therapeutic tool.

Joyful art therapy ... awakening joy through painting Painting uses the creative process of art making to reduce stress and have fun.

Joyful art is based on the Zen concept of living in the moment. It entails simply painting on the surface of a Buddha Board or Mystic Art Board with water and making a creation come to life. Once the art is created, the painter watches the brush strokes fade, serving as a reminder that the fun is in the doing. The canvas turns blank again, giving the painter another chance to be in the moment and create a whole new masterpiece. The purpose of joyful art is to allow oneself continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photo: Marcel Jancovic /Shutterstock.com

WHEN YOU LAUGH, THE WHOLE world laughs with you, right? Sure, but finding something to laugh about is sometimes easier said than done. Tuning into the news on television or glancing at the latest headlines can have a mood dampening effect on even the staunchest of optimists. Amidst a world climate of war, poverty, disease and clashing ideology, is there really any place for laughter? According to the experts, the pursuit of humor may prove to be more than merely a coping mechanism—it could, perhaps, help heal the world!

Creating treatments, programs and activities to help spa guests cultivate positive emotions during their visit boosts their energy, reduces their anxiety and helps them to find joy in the midst of change and instability.

cludes breathing, stretching, meditation, rhythmic clapping and chanting of the words “ho ho ha ha ha” in unison.

The concept of laughter yoga is based on the scientific fact that the body cannot differentiate between fake and real laughter. One gets the same physiological and psychological benefits. Though initially the laughter may be forced, it usually isn’t long before participants are laughing freely and without restraint.

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spa|the pursuit of joy to “let go,” and not be so concerned with every single outcome. Live for the moment and enjoy it! The objective of joyful art therapy is not to perfectly recreate the subject to look exactly like the original, but to capture its essence.

Meditation ... happiness is an inside job, practicing for a joyful life

oils, they do not even have the capacity to experience joy.

Transformational breath work ... a breath of fresh air The developer of Transformational Breath­w ork, Judith Kravitz, has devoted almost three decades to sharing a simple breathing process with hundreds of thousands of individuals,

art circle at One&Only Palmilla, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

Meditation allows one to train the mind to direct its attention toward joyful experiences. We all possess the wisdom to restore our ability to rejoice in life.

Meditation offers a path to finding it, especially after a moment of imbalance in one’s life.

Aroma touch therapy ... I am feeling good Clinical studies performed by the Miller School of Medicine at the Uni­versity of Miami show that massage reduces anxiety, depression and pain and improves mood. In addition, breathing in certain healing scents can be a natural mood booster. Aromatherapy oils blended by clinical aromatherapists have a profound effect on the mind and body.

One would assume that the blend of essential oils suitable for enhancing joy would be those that are energizing and uplifting, but in my experience I have found it necessary to take a more tailored approach to each guest. For some, their high stress levels require the massage therapist to use deeply relaxing oils and techniques to calm them down. For others, their emotions have them so wired that unless we can restore emotional balance with essential Page 56 • www.LNEONLINE.com

which can improve one’s well-being in a single session. Endorsed by well known integrative medicine experts such as Deepak Chopra, M.D. and Christiane Northrup, M.D., it entails an individual or group session that involves more than just breathing techniques and exercises.

Stress causes breathing to become shallow. It can also cause the diaphragm to maintain a contracted position, which over time remains tight and does not work properly, affecting the quality of breathing. Transformational breathing seeks to unlock the restrictions in a person’s breath pattern so they can receive more oxygen. Additional healing techniques such as press points, affirmations, toning, movement, meditation and others are introduced as needed to unlock restricted breathing patterns.

As our breath deepens, we relax, blood pressure lowers and oxygen fills our bodies. When we breathe in more oxygen, we create better health, protect our body from disease and experience overwhelming feelings of joy. Proper breathing technique is central to the ancient practices of yoga, qi gong, Ayurveda and other meditation disciplines. A clinical study of thousands of participants over a 30-year period presents convinc-

ing evidence that the most significant factor in peak health and longevity is how well one breathes.

Gratitude journal ... capturing the moment Keeping a gratitude journal is a way to consciously call attention to the things we are thankful for each day. Gratitude is linked with positive emotions. Not only is it fundamental to being happy, it is good for our health as well. A study conducted by Robert A. Emmons, Ph.D., from the University of California, showed that people who listed what they were grateful for tended to have more vitality and optimism, suffered less stress and experienced fewer episodes of clinical depression than the population as a whole.

Studies like this confirm that gratitude creates a specific energy that affects our bodies in a positive way. Every evening, write down five things you are grateful for on that day. When we feel anxious and find it difficult to see the joy in life, creating a gratitude journal may help us shift our focus to more positive things.

When we do a mental and spiritual inventory of all that we have, we will probably realize that we are very rich indeed.

The treatments and services we offer in the world of spa are about more than just pampering and enhancing the outside appearance. We can and do have a profound effect on the well being of each of our guests. n Photography is taken at One&Only Palmilla, located in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. Their destination spa prescribes a smile during an innovative three-day joyful journey program.

Ronel Corbin is a Cidesco and Babtac Diplomat, and has been involved in the design, development, pre-opening and operations of countless prestigious luxury spas around the world.

She has a true passion for wellness and the ways spas can make a difference in one’s quality of life. Corbin has trained hundreds of therapists and spa employees. She can be reached at ronelcorbin@hotmail.com.

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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A 10-minute session goes as follows: 1. The client takes a twominute stress exam to establish their stress number. 2. A stress management plan is created based on the results of the exam. 3. The patient/client is scheduled for services. This software program can be installed on a computer or purchased pre-loaded on one of the tablet computers. Complete marketing tools are also available. www.relaxationstation.pro 888.713.2093

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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business

human capital

by Dale Turner

Page 60 • www.LNEONLINE.com

3. Cut the dead wood. My experi­ ence has been that dealing with the 10 percent of staff that is performing poorly can monopolize 90 percent of my time.

Although I believe in positive coaching, there comes a time when progressive

Hire people who want to grow and develop.

When you find these people, promote them to better positions.

performance management is necessary.

First, you must document everything. Be sure to list the date, the time and a de­ scription of the incident. Human resource professionals will tell you: “If it is not in writing, it didn’t happen.” Secondly, be careful to never say or do anything that you wouldn’t want to see on a 5” x 7” card in a courtroom. Never take correc­ tive action out of anger. No matter how frustrated you are with the employee, maintain your composure. Finally, as you complete the steps of corrective action, always let it be the employee’s decision to continue or discontinue the behavior.

In the end, you are not terminating their employment; it is the consequence of their actions (or inactions) that caused that unfortunate situation. The way this plays out will be best for all involved in the long run.

4. Give your team regular feedback. Meet at least monthly with your employees to review their service re­ sults, product sales and general job performance. Let them know when they

are doing well and help them devel­ op plans to get better. Listen to their suggestions and show them your will­ ingness to help them succeed. This is a valuable time to build loyalty with your staff. Show your team that you care about them through coaching and feedback.

5. Develop a talent pipeline. Be proactive and think three moves ahead when it comes to hiring new talent. If you are unhappy with your current team, don’t wait—start looking for replace­ ments. Hire people who want to grow and develop. When you find these peo­ ple, promote them to better positions such as lead esthetician, spa supervisor or manager. Remember, this also means that you may need to replace your best people at some point if they decide to move on in their career. Always be on the lookout for good talent. You may not have a position open today, but you never know when one will become available. Think ahead.

By following these steps, you should be able to build a more engaged team.

As a result, you will have happier cus­ tomers and a larger bank account! n Dale Turner is a 25-year veteran of the financial services industry. He is a vice president and branch manager of a bank in New Castle, PA. Turner specializes in helping small business owners with their cash flow and investment needs. As a co-owner of Mary Turner Day Spa, he has helped build a lucrative, debt-free spa that is expanding its business. For business or financial questions, email Turner at daleturner125@msn.com.

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photo: Adam Gregor/Shutterstock.com

MOST SPA OWNERS ARE GREAT technicians, but few are ever trained in how to manage people. As your busi­ ness grows, you will need to add tech­ nicians, front desk staff and possibly even a spa manager. Each member of the team brings their own set of skills, and sometimes their own set of prob­ lems. Your ability to get the best from your team will directly impact your bot­ tom line. Here are some tips to maxi­ mize your “human capital.”

1. Don’t settle on a hire. I cannot tell you how many times I hired the best person applying as opposed to the best person. Don’t settle! It is easier to hold out for someone better than to hire a problem. Bad employees are a cancer for your team. When interviewing candi­ dates, ask a series of open ended ques­ tions, and focus on how they handled past work situations. Their answers will give you an indication of how they will perform when working for you.

2. Engaged employees are good for business. Studies have shown that happy, engaged employees are more profitable than those who are not. But how do you build a team of engaged employees? Giving your team the tools to do their job, valuing their opinion and giving them the chance to learn and grow go a long way in creating an engaged work environment. Many own­ ers know what to do but have difficulty communicating their expectations. Be clear and concise when giving direction, and don’t forget to praise a job well done. Too often we are quick to point out something negative but stingy with praise. The old adage is true—you at­ tract more flies with honey than vinegar.

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THE ULTIMATE

CONSUMER experience

BY LEON ALEXANDER, PH.D.

Page 62 • www.LNEONLINE.com

AS WE ENTER A NEW MILLENNIUM, A quote from the past century flashes through my mind. “One small step for man; one giant leap for mankind.”

At the end of the last century, spas were mov­ ing toward the model of the full service provider with a growing influence from retail. Unfortunately, this paradigm represents merely a tentative first step rather than a giant leap for our industry. In business, today’s initiatives are becoming tomor­ row’s minimum standards with increasing rapidity.

If we really want to maximize our business op­ portunities, a major paradigm shift in our way of thinking is required. Decision makers must cease to view their businesses as spas and begin to think of them as “consumer locations.”

What is the difference between a salon or spa and a consumer location? A spa focuses primar­ ily on services. Some owners even view retailing as a service!

A service strategy is one that generates through­ out the business, incorporating estheticians, ser­ vice providers, front desk personnel and clients.

In contrast, a consumer location is focused on the consumer’s experience. Such a location is de­ signed to be visually enticing and alluring from the outside, and complemented by exciting visual storefront merchandising.

Effective retailers are already designing their stores to meet this philosophy. The salon and spa industry can obviously profit from emulating this proven strategy. Carefully developed interior de­ sign supports the techniques of successful retailers.

Display units should reach out to the consumer and captivate them. Lighting should enhance and illuminate the products to catch consumers’ atten­ tion. Display tables should be carefully arranged so that the consumer visits them in a natural flow on their way to the check-in podium.

The key is to create an environment that is con­ ducive to serious retailing. The environment should be as comfortable and inviting for the consumer who only wants to purchase products as it is for the customer who comes to receive services. The goal is to create a one-stop shop where the con­ sumer receives advice from retail specialists and education on products, nutrition and wellness.

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photo: AISPIX by Image Source/Shutterstock.com

A GIANT LEAP FOR SPAS

business

It is essential to make it easy for the consumer to experience the products. The business should be equally focused on retailing and service, in­ tegrating one with the other in a natural flow.

Rather than being confined to the reception area, retailing should be visible throughout the spa and connected to all the service processes. The enterprise is visually merchandised in order to enhance the one-to-one relationship linked to selling other products and services.

Recently I asked a group of spa owners what they call the people who visit their premises. Some replied “clients,” while others said “guests.” Here we strike the core of our paradigm shift.

These visitors are not guests, and they are much more than clients. As a host, I would not feel com­ fortable selling things to my guests. When I go to a restaurant, retail outlet or salon, I don’t think of myself as a client. I am a consumer, and I make purchases mainly on the basis of emotion rather than logic.

Clients receive services. Consumers may also receive services, but in addition they get educa­ tion and products to take home. They enjoy an experience that is more than the sum of its parts.

We in the spa industry must adopt a consumer strategy. We must think in terms of the consumer’s perspective, because it is the only one that counts.

Before we can begin to view our consumers differently, we have to change the way we view ourselves. We need to fully understand our own roles before we can understand and help those who look to us to meet their needs. When a group of service providers was asked what they called themselves, they replied, “estheticians.”

However, their actual roles are far more encom­ passing. They are skin specialists—problem solv­ ers, lay psychologists, image consultants and edu­ cators all rolled into one. Owners and their staff members need to internalize the fact that they are comprehensive consumer consultants. Only then can they progress to viewing the people who patronize their establishment as consumers and the spa itself as a consumer location.

In order for spa owners to maximize their success by achieving the above vision, the fol­ lowing quesitons must be answered.

• • • • •

What business am I in?

What business should I be in?

What is my vision?

What are my values?

What is my sustainable competitive advantage?

April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

• Am I client driven or consumer driven?

These key questions give rise to a secondary set of questions.

• If you conclude that you are in the service business but should be in the consumer business, how do you engineer the necessary shift of emphasis?

• Is your vision marketable, and does it align with your values?

• What systems and programs have you created to ensure that your points of difference from your competitors are sustainable?

• If you still think of people as clients, how can you make the shift to thinking of them as consumers?

THE QUALITY OF THE CONSUMER’S EXPERIENCE IS THE PRIMARY FACTOR IN DETERMINING WHETHER OR NOT HE OR SHE RETURNS, ALTHOUGH LOCATION WILL STILL PLAY A ROLE.

The answers to these questions will form the basis for constructing a strategic plan. That plan should address a variety of components.

Location Choose a place with heavy foot traffic and good front window visibility. The old saying that the three most important characteristics are “location, loca­ tion, location” has changed. The new saying is “experience, experience, experience.” The quality of the consumer’s experience is the primary factor in determining whether or not he or she returns, although location will still play a role.

Design The appropriate design characteristics for a suc­ cessful consumer location depends on the nature of the products to be retailed. There is a world of difference between an establishment that retails products with an average price of $12 and one that trades in products that sell for hundreds of dollars each. The first should be designed to maximize the number of consumers who pass through the doors. The second should be aimed at attracting a select group of high ticket pros­ pects. It is vital to create a sense of depth as you enter the location. The correct positioning of furniture creates that illusion.

Retail strategy The successful spa will view itself as two busi­ nesses that exist in a single location. Two separate strategies, one each for retail and services, should continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 63

business|the ultimate consumer experience

the arena effect

CREATE A MERCHANDISING STRATEGY THAT ALLOWS THE CONSUMER TO TOUCH, EXPERIENCE, TEST AND EXAMINE EVERYTHING IN THE RETAIL AREA, ENCOURAGING THEM TO IMPULSE BUY.

Education We need to devise a comprehensive program for the ongo­ ing education of our staff. The program should focus on re­ tail, service, sales, merchandising and product knowledge.

In addition, a strong ongoing customer education program should be implemented.

Reselling strategy We need to consider reselling in addition to retailing if we want our businesses to be successful and sustainable. If you have been in business for more than two years and repeat consum­ ers account for the majority of your sales, then you are more in the business of reselling than retailing. Successful resell­ ing involves the implementation of one-to-one consumer marketing. These customized promotions and merchandiz­ ing techniques are designed to encourage customers to buy more frequently, choose larger sizes and select from a broader spectrum of product offerings.

Personnel Recruit retail personnel with specialist skills. You would not expect a front desk attendant to cut hair or to give a facial.

Expecting service providers to produce the desired retailing results is similarly unrealistic. Creating a thriving retail busi­ ness requires the employment of passionate, highly trained retail specialists whose attention is focused upon retailing.

Page 64 • www.LNEONLINE.com

We have to create a merchandising strategy that allows the consumer to touch, experience, test and examine everything in the retail area, encouraging them to impulse buy. Intimate contact between shoppers and merchandise boosts sales. Is the product merchandised above set 22” and below 5’ 6”?

Effective strategies for retailing and provision of services are an integral part of the blueprint for success. However, the consumer’s experience is the driving force. If you aspire to offer the “Ultimate Consumer Experience,” ask yourself the follow­ ing question: What would you offer consumers if you charged an admission fee to enter your location? What type of experi­ ences would you give the consumer? What program of events would you devise to keep the consumer interested?

An event is usually less memorable the second time you experience it. Subsequent occasions are even less compelling.

Furthermore, a generic experience designed to appeal to ev­ eryone usually ends up appealing to no one. Customization is the key to customer satisfaction. The customized experience is “just right” for each customer on each occasion. When you customize an experience, you automatically turn it into a trans­ formation. Hence the saying, “a life transforming experience.”

The world is changing at a pace that requires decision makers to constantly review and appraise their businesses.

While you are reading this article, your consumers are be­ ing contacted by email.

A consumer location should be measured against the standards of best available retail practices. We need to look outside of our own environment and examine the best stan­ dards of other retailers. I often hear owners saying that they want to take their businesses to “the next level.” Rather than continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

illustration elements: Shutterstock.com

Merchandising be devised and implemented in alignment with the overall vision. Expecting to achieve exceptional retail results without a retail strategy is like expecting to give someone a good haircut without having any knowledge of cutting techniques.

The design and materials used for retailing must be compatible with the image of the service business. The retail and service aspects of the businesses must mesh smoothly to create a consistent overall culture for the enterprise. The right combination of design, products, personnel, services, education, experience, systems and marketing will create the winning formula for success.

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Leon Alexander, Ph.D., is the founder and president of Eurisko, a comprehensive design, consulting and distribution source launched in 2006 to serve the salon and spa industry.

He established Eurisko with the vision of designing salons and spas from the consumer’s perspective. Dr. Alexander, a doctor of behavioral psychology, is an expert in both retail and salon development.

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Page 66 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photo: AISPIX by Image Source/Shutterstock.com

pursue the next level within our own industry, we need to seek out the best practices of other service and retail indus­ tries in order to learn and benefit by implementing proven strategies. As an industry, we should not settle for anything less than the highest possible standards. We should aim to maximize the potential of our businesses!

We need to investigate and emulate the key ingredients in the strategic plans of successful retailers such as Banana Republic and Pottery Barn. We should strive to understand the ways in which the individual components of these plans contribute to the overall success of the corporations.

The retail revolution in our industry has begun. We must perpetually create new retail experiences. Savvy consumers are hungry for substance and a truly personal experience that is meaningful and sustainable. Consumers demand that each return visit be a progression from the last one. They will reward the businesses that meet this standard with the most precious commodity of the new millennium—their loyalty.

Store design will evolve to address and satisfy the mindset of the consumers. Products will no longer be organized around brands. Instead, aspirational themes, solutions and narratives will provide the backbone for both physical and visual presen­ tation. For example, the shops of Donna Karan are not about fashion, but rather an attitude about how women aspire to live.

Ultimately, consumers in our industry will no longer base decisions of where to spend their time upon location or even the physical realm. Instead, their choices will reflect the authen­ ticity and quality of the experiences they are offered. Another notable quote from the last century is, “I have a dream.”

Yesterday this vision was only a dream. Today it is reality. Set your vision and strategic plan beyond the natural develop­ ment curve of your business. Aim for a level that positions you as one of the pioneers of our industry. Take one small step, and allow your customers to experience one giant leap! n

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business

perception is key TO LONG TERM SUCCESS

D

ECORATED POLITICAL AND MILITARY FIGURE Colin Powell’s insight that “success is the result of perfection, hard work, learning from failure, loyalty, and persistence,” is incredibly powerful. As business owners, the information we need to follow on the path to success all comes from our customers. Success is achieved by attracting clients to your practice with quality products and services, as well as the expertise that you and your staff provide them. In addition, the visual appeal of your practice—both inside and out—is a determining factor in whether or not a guest will want to put their trust in you and

IMAGINE YOUR IDEAL CLIENT AND DESIGN A SPACE THAT THIS CLIENT WOULD FIND VISUALLY PLEASING—A PLACE THAT WILL PUT THEM AT EASE. your business and pursue a relationship. A potential client’s perception of your business begins before they open your door, and once the client enters your practice, they are as­ sessing whether or not there will be value in this relation­ ship. From the moment a client enters your practice, you and your staff will need to prove that value, since repeat business is most likely to occur when clients experience a personal connection with the people, products and services your practice provides.

First, make sure that clients can easily find your location.

The name of your business should be displayed in a manner that is easy to read and large enough to see clearly from a distance. You should provide plenty of parking close to your practice. If it is too difficult or confusing to reach you, clients will either arrive frustrated or simply seek another provider. When clients can park and find your business with ease, they are likely to have a favorable impression of your practice before they even walk through the door.

Next, professional landscaping enhances the look and appeal of your practice. An attractive exterior is inviting and can attract potential clients, so be certain that there is no unsightly trash that could create a negative first impression.

It is important that your clients enjoy every aspect of their visit, including visual esthetics that are calming and uplift­ ing. A pleasing exterior sets the right tone and can provide a sense of well-being, which clients will associate with your spa or practice. It also reassures those entering that this is a business that takes pride in their facility.

The look and feel of your business is part of your brand.

Imagine your ideal client and design a space that this client would find visually pleasing—a place that will put them at ease. Inside, the practice should be clean and welcoming.

Recessed and indirect lighting will brighten the space with­ out being overwhelming. Avoid clutter, and be sure to make efficient use of your space so that clients and staff can move about freely. Your furniture should be modern and comfort­ able, providing a waiting area where your clients can relax.

Make sure that the reading materials in your waiting room include the most recent editions of publications. Having old and outdated magazines gives guests the impression that attention to detail is unimportant to your business.

The first person your clients encounter at your spa or practice will most likely be a member of your staff. For this reason, it is especially important that employees be trained to provide excellent customer service. According to research conducted by Harvard Business School professor Frances Frei, customers associate positive experiences with the indi­ vidual; however, they attribute negative experiences to the organization. Therefore, it is vital that all staff set a friendly, helpful tone in every interaction they have with clients. Even when they are on the phone, employees should smile, not only because they are visible to waiting clients, but also be­ cause a smile can be heard in the speaker’s voice. continues

BY RICHARD LINDER

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photo: Blend Images/Shutterstock.com

April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 69

In addition to being pleasant and eager to serve, your staff must also be competent at providing multiple services.

Take the time to train your staff to respond appropriately to client questions and concerns—from giving driving direc­ tions to answering technical questions about products and services. If they do not know the answer, they should provide readily available resources. When friendly employees serve a client with professional concern, that client will perceive your practice as caring about them, rather than just trying to make money. A well-trained staff goes a long way in mak­ ing a great first impression that can lead to repeat business.

Carefully cultivated relationships with clients will build your business. People want to be heard, particularly when approach­ ing a professional with a personal need. Actively listening to clients’ needs and critiques will build trusting relationships that show them you value them on a personal level. Active listening requires that you focus entirely on the client, putting aside your own emotions and preconceptions of what you may think the client needs. Maintain eye contact while your client is speaking, and then calmly summarize your understanding of what they said. By doing this, you demonstrate to the client that you are listening, while also giving them an opportunity to correct any misunderstanding you may have regarding their issue.

When receiving negative feedback from clients, resist the impulse to defend your actions or make explanations. If you handle criticism with poise, rather than being defensive, your clients will feel safe in your care. Assimilating construc­ tive feedback from clients into your business is an excellent way to honor continuous improvement—and make your clients know you value their input. When clients can trust you to listen to them without judgment, you build trust that Page 70 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Richard Linder is CEO of PCA SKIN®.

Previously he held executive positions at Greenwich Street Partners, the St. Louis Economic Development Council and KPMG in Zurich, Switzerland. At Harvard Business School, Linder led a study on baby boomers, which focused on companies that address health related issues. He serves on the board of directors for the National Holistic Institute.

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photo: Blend Images/Shutterstock.com

CAREFULLY CULTIVATED RELATIONSHIPS WITH CLIENTS WILL BUILD YOUR BUSINESS.

becomes loyalty. Long-term commitment to your business and to yourself is essential to success. Loyal clients will not only return to your practice, they will also refer your services to family and friends.

Your client has two ways of valuing your products and services: one is the monetary value and the other is how the product or service makes the client feel. It is common for a practice to focus on the monetary value for their clients.

An additional focus on the customer’s perceived value is an opportunity to set your practice apart. One way to provide additional value for your clients is to offer trial sizes of new products you would like them to try at no charge when they come to you for other products or treatments. Trial sizes of­ fered at no cost make clients more comfortable trying some­ thing new, which helps create additional sales in the future.

Be certain that you carefully explain the product and attach importance to it by clarifying expectations and what sets this new product apart from the rest. Samples that are handed out idly will not be seen as important, and are likely to wind up in a drawer at the guest’s home—unused.

To demonstrate the full value of your offerings, involve the client in each step of the treatments they receive. Take pictures of the areas you are treating before and after each treatment.

Show these pictures to your client to demonstrate their prog­ ress. Allow the client to look in a mirror while you show them what you will do and the results they can expect when you fin­ ish. It is important to follow up with your client when the treat­ ment is complete to gauge their satisfaction with their results.

A follow-up not only demonstrates care for your clients, but also provides you with vital information on what your practice does well, and how it can be used to improve services.

Client perception of you and your practice is essential to your business success. Jeff Bazos, CEO of Amazon.com, put it well when he said, “If you do build a great experi­ ence, customers tell each other about that. Word of mouth is very powerful.” With careful attention to visual esthetics, product quality and customer service, you will encourage long-term client loyalty. Active listening can improve revenue and delivery of service and products, resulting in happy cli­ ents. While others spend millions on advertising, you can build your business through caring relationships while de­ livering outstanding products and services to clients when they need you most. n

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by Donna Dodier

Sym·bi·o·sis (noun) - Interaction between two different organisms living in close physical association, typically to the advantage of both; a mutually beneficial relationship between multiple people or groups for a harmonious benefit.

IT IS OF UTMOST IMPORTANCE for a day spa to have a harmonious feel. Your business is an encapsulation of peace, wellness and relaxation. The en­ closure keeps us in a sort of “safe place” or “haven,” an “escape” from the outside world of chaos, negativity and stress.

The therapist, client and front desk reception are three different viewpoints under one roof. A symbiotic relationship between these three parties must be in consistent working order. Like a feng shui organization of personalities, there should be a comfortable flow of energy and no blockages. Once you feel your business has too many hurdles or block­ ages, it is time to re-evaluate your staff and question whether you are hiring the right people. Additionally, although we cannot choose our clients, there are situ­ ations that call for us to set boundaries with them in order to keep the spa bal­ anced, happy, productive and positive.

Set standards for your employees—your therapists are a reflection of you.

The therapists Your therapists are the heart of your busi­ ness. I can tell you from firsthand experi­ ence that there are plenty of therapists who can interview beautifully but are quite unprofessional behind closed doors. A bad therapist can offend clients and cre­ Page 72 • www.LNEONLINE.com

ate havoc in your spa. A good therapist who consistently receives positive reviews and demonstrates professionalism and cooperative qualities over a period of three months is most likely the real deal.

They often demonstrate these qualities immediately. Yet those who are a thorn reveal their true selves quickly as well.

Be wise—catch it and address it or dis­ miss them. Sometimes we do not want

If your hunch is that you have a scam artist, listen to your intuition.

the painstaking, arduous task of replac­ ing the status quo therapists. However keeping them on can be more costly than you realize. In the long run, do you re­ ally know how many clients you have lost because of a bad employee’s behavior and attitude? Do they talk back to you in front of clients? What are the topics of their conversations with clients and other staff? If an honest mistake has been made, do they seem to feel remorse? Do they seek to rectify it? Weekly meetings are imperative to address any such issues, as well as give accolades to staff. Never point fingers, and never reprimand staff in front of clients or other staff members.

It is low class, unprofessional and shows a lack of integrity.

Express appreciation for your ther­ apists. We all need a pat on the back sometimes. A happy employee is a more productive worker. If a therapist is work­ ing diligently, staying late for you on

busy days and really stepping up to the plate, don’t take them for granted.

If they are educated and professional, they can work anywhere.

If you are a spa owner or reception­ ist who has never worked as a massage therapist or esthetician, you cannot com­ prehend the challenges of their job.

They often have multiple clients back to back with no break time to eat and recharge; they have to rush to make their room presentable between clients; and they must be a chameleon to the many different personalities that enter their treatment room.

It is important for the reception staff to care about the therapists. Have they had a chance to eat? Are they on sched­ ule? How can they help make things run smoothly for them? If the therapists’ well being is overlooked, your clients will also suffer. As a spa owner, your moti­ vation should not always be driven by money. If you overbook your therapists in pursuit of maximizing client quantity, your services will lack in quality. This will reflect your reputation very quickly, as negative reviews spread fast.

If you allow unprofessional staff to work in your spa, your clientele will per­ ceive you—the spa owner—as unprofes­ sional. Choose your staff wisely, and in turn you will be able to retain your staff mem­ bers and create a comfortable, secure and professional working environment.

The client - their perspective, their world Attaining new clients is easy; retaining them is the challenge. There are so many continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photo: Tyler Olson/Shutterstock.com

business|

harmony in the spa

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business|harmony in the spa

factors involved. They are paying money in exchange for a service. Clients have many different expectations, and some are easier to satisfy than others. Keeping that balanced, relaxed, harmonious at­ mosphere in your business also requires having a certain type of client who is suited to your specific type of spa and its unique elements.

Identify the types of clients you want to attract. The common goals for most clients are beauty, relaxation and stress release. The client sees, hears, smells and feels—all of these senses come alive as they enter the spa world. From the moment they enter, they should be ex­ periencing pure indulgence.

Reception staff must be in harmony with the therapists, the therapists must be in harmony with the clients, and the clients have to be in harmony with fel­ low clients. It is the responsibility of all of these parties to “co-exist” under one roof with mutual respect. We must lean on one another.

Sometimes clients are the ones who present challenges. They refuse to pay, use their cell phones in your spa, flaunt loud, disruptive personalities and a de­ finitive sense of entitlement. As a spa owner, you must establish boundaries with these clients. Boundaries set pro­ fessional standards and create quality clients. There was a point in my career when I never would have said these words, but here goes: I do not agree that the client is always correct.

Today more than ever, clients are not forthcoming about their use of medical grade products or recent services such as injectables. There are so many variables that give us as professionals the right to refuse services if we feel that the service will do more harm than good. When a client is dishonest, causes disruption, expresses negativity and is disrespect­ ful to therapists, boundaries must play a part in the spa-client relationship. If a client refuses to pay for a treatment, ask them why. If the reason given includes a complaint about one of your very pro­ fessional, trusted therapists, it is impor­ tant to be loyal and stand behind your Page 74 • www.LNEONLINE.com

therapist. If your hunch is that you have a scam artist, listen to your intuition. If you allow a client to leave without pay­ ing for the service, it shows that you lack faith in your own therapist.

Clients need to respect the other guests in your spa. One client may not want to hear Mrs. Jones’ conversation about her family drama while she is try­ ing to enjoy a relaxing pedicure. If Mrs. Jones had never been told from the start that she should take her phone conver­ sation outside, we have slipped up. Now every time she comes in, she feels free to have her cell phone conversations in the pedicure area. We cannot become accustomed to letting things slide— no matter how loyal a client is or how much money they spend, they do not have the right to prevent others from enjoying services. Most will respect you for setting boundaries. It is your business, and you are a professional.

The reception All communication with your client be­ gins and ends with the front desk. This is the brain of your business. There is only one chance to make a first impression.

The client is acknowledged here first.

This is where they are greeted, offered a glass of water or tea and given an in­ take form. The front desk sets the tone. It does not matter whether you are a small town spa or a corporate hotel; confusion, miscommunication, poor knowledge of treatments and lack of control in handling client requests is disastrous.

After the client encounters the front desk, the baton is passed onto the ther­ apist. It must always be executed in a smooth and friendly manner. If there is confusion at this point, or perhaps tension between the therapist and receptionist, it is often felt by the client. Everyone must be on the same level and quality of professionalism. The reception desk staff may never understand what giving a mas­ sage entails, but they must nevertheless be accommodating to the needs of the thereapists, so they can carry out their treatments with the best interest of the clients. On the other end, the therapist

may never know what it is like to juggle a schedule of clients while phones are ringing and people are ready to check out. The therapist must at least do what the reception staff asks of them to make their job smooth and trouble free. Often a therapist can argue about why the schedule appears the way it does, but they also do not understand what it takes to run spa reception.

There is a saying by a famous leader in positive thinking: Work “on” your busi­ ness, not “in” your business. This allows you to see the error of its ways from a different perspective—from the outside in. If your day is filled with putting out little fires and trying to keep up with the basics, you cannot put your efforts into the marketing and promoting. It is es­ sential to have a reliable, skilled front desk person so that you can dedicate the necessary time and effort to keep the business moving in a profitable direction without sacrificing quality.

Spa harmony factors There are many elements that come into play when it comes to keeping your at­ mosphere clear of negativity. Hire quality therapists, quickly dismiss those who do not meet your standards, and set boundaries with clients and yourself.

Keep your spa a symbiotic haven by recognizing that it is a permanent work in progress and constantly seek to im­ prove it. n

Donna Dodier is a licensed esthetician in Florida and New England. She is an educator, writer, lecturer and consultant. Dodier is an expert on the anti-aging benefits of nutraceuticals and holistic alternatives for the skin and body, both for humans and animals. She can be reached at 561.886.8427 or via email at quasarbeauty@hotmail.com.

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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business

DEVELOPING YOUR CAREER

photo: Yuri Arcurs/Shutterstock.com

STEP 2-PERSPECTIVE

Page 76 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

business

IN THE JANUARY 2013 ISSUE OF LNE & Spa (www.lneonline.com) I discussed the importance of self reflection and self assessment as a means for establishing direction in the development of your career. This article focuses on the importance of having a clear and accurate understanding of how others see you, which I call perspective.

Any career, regardless of the industry, involves working with others. Every workplace revolves around interactions and interdependence between groups and individuals. Solid careers are made of solid relationships, so it’s critical to develop self-awareness through understanding others’ perspectives in order to forge and sustain effective relationships at work.

Perspective allows you to leverage your strengths, apply focus to enhance your skills in the areas that need it most and change any habits that may be hindering your effectiveness. But how does one gain this perspective? I feel that you will learn the most important information from direct feedback.

Constructive feedback is a powerful tool. Everyone has blind spots, so if your intention is to grow, improve, be recognized and move forward in your career, seeking the truth about how others see you is one of the most valuable things you can do. You can’t take action on something you are not aware of.

With an accurate self image, you will be better equipped to set realistic and attainable career goals.

A good way to start gathering feedback may be to meet privately with your boss, assuming your boss is able and willing to identify and articulate which areas of your performance can use improvement. Explain your desire to improve your performance through enhanced self-awareness and ask for an evaluation, even if it’s not review time.

Be sincere in your request. You can take it one step further by asking the same

of your peers. Be prepared to answer the same questions for them, too. This kind of circular data collection is called a 360 degree review. There are many formal tools for this available online, but you can easily accomplish the goal of gaining perspective by asking your colleagues to answer just a few important questions, such as: • What is my reputation?

• What do you see as my greatest capabilities and strengths?

• What areas do you see as my greatest opportunities for improvement?

• What do you think are the skills, achievements or areas of knowledge that are most critical to my future success?

Be open and willing to take an honest look at yourself, because you may receive some feedback that is surprising or difficult for you to hear. It takes a lot of courage (and perhaps a thick skin!), but consider the personal insight you will gain and how it can help you grow as a professional.

If you feel the individuals’ whose opinion you value would provide authentic feedback if there was an anonymous vehicle, you could use www.surveymonkey.com. You can easily create a simple survey with questions like the ones above for no charge using this website. Comments and responses will be anonymous, and not tied to each person who answers.

Coaching or mentoring is another great way to gain perspective and build self-awareness toward the goal of career effectiveness. For most of us, it can be energizing and empowering to have an extra supporter at our back to teach, promote and encourage us. It can also be a good way to keep yourself accountable and on track in work-

ing on your personal development. A good coach or mentor can serve as a mirror by offering honest advice and straightforward feedback when you get stuck or fail to accurately observe your own behaviors and actions. But where does one actually find a coach or mentor?

The first place to start is with your human resources department. Check in with them to see if there is a formal mentoring program available within your company. If there is not, be bold and ask if they would be willing to facilitate pairing you with an executive inside of the organization, but outside of your division or line of reporting who might be willing to offer you guidance. If this is not possible, consider your own network and resources. Is there someone that your friends, neighbors or relatives might know who fits the bill? Is there someone within an association you belong to who may be willing to help you hone your abilities and navigate new challenges?

Remember that a coaching or mentoring relationship is very personal. It is essential to find someone with expertise and accomplishments, but you must also be able to connect with them on a personal level. Look for someone who has the experience and achievements that you wish to emulate, but also is a good listener and conveys that they are willing to invest in you with their time and attention. This person should be someone you feel you can trust.

You might consider telling your chosen mentor that you would like to have a one-on-one dialogue on a regular weekly basis so that your performance is fresh in both of your minds. The mentor may be able to provide specific and detailed information with examples observed the week prior fairly easily. Your mentor might also like something in return from you, so consider making it a quid-proquo (“this for that” in Latin) relationship. continues

BY LORI HUTCHINSON AND BRENDA K. HELPS April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 77

business|developing your career

MOVING YOUR CAREER FORWARD MAY ALSO MEAN TAKING SOME COURSES OUTSIDE OF WORK, GOING TO SEMINARS OR LEARNING FROM ONLINE SOURCES.

For instance, your boss may want you to provide him or her with information on what makes some staff members unhappy, and what the mentor could do better to support everyone. Or perhaps you might agree to help motivate the less engaged members of your team.

Whether you choose to seek perspective and self awareness through your superiors, colleagues or a coaching/mentoring relationship, keep in mind that feedback is always a backward view.

It is a replay of what you have done in the past, yet the most important factor in receiving this kind of information is determining what you will do with it moving forward. You may want to think through what you could have done differently to achieve a different outcome.

What mood/state were you in when you made a mistake? Of course we all make mistakes, but it’s how we manage them and move forward that sets us apart from others. Moving your career forward may also mean taking some courses outside of work, going to seminars or learning from online sources. You might start every workday with a few minutes of selfreflection, using the time to consider how you might receive more satisfaction at work by always putting your best self forward.

Keep in mind that managing your career is completely your responsibility.

You cannot expect your boss to steer you in the right direction or provide you with continual new challenges. A passive approach most likely will not work.

However if you model the behavior of the best performers in your company, actively improve your skills and expertise, build genuine work relationships and provide real value to others through a sincere approach, there is no doubt that you can move your career forward! n Lori Hutchinson worked for 15 years in hospitality human resources management at three properties in California prior to founding Hutchinson Consulting in 1993. Hutchinson Consulting is a hospitality management recruitment firm. In 2012, Hutchinson founded OurSpaCommunity.com.

Brenda K. Helps has more than 20 years of experience in human resources in the hospitality and spa industries. She has held senior positions in human resources for Miraval, Rosewood Resorts and Fairmont Hotels & Resorts. Throughout her career, Helps has focused on recruitment and training, with an emphasis on career development for all levels of staff.

She currently serves as an executive recruiter for Ventikos Associates.

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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business

entrepreneur!

FROM SOLOPRENEUR TO

Q & A INTERVIEW

Q: A: Q: A:

on special skills and become a top skin care provider.

Twelve years later, in 1992, I wanted more because the atmospheres I worked in just didn’t have all the elements I be­ lieved necessary for a total guest experi­ ence. I sold my car for $10,000 to fund my opening of Skin Apeel, and I never took a business loan or any financing to open my front doors. We were the first day spa to open in Boca Raton. Many spas followed, and many of them duplicate components we had in our facility.

Growth path

Q: A:

What were some of your growing pains?

The biggest was the learning curve from technician to manage­ ment, and learning how to run a successful business. I was taught how to be a great skin care expert, but I was not taught how to run a business. In the beginning, it was all trial and error, and I was my own teacher for many years. I didn’t ask for help, and I fumbled through. For the first five years, my spa was a revolving door with all the new hires. I think we had 50 people turn over within that time.

I worked full time in the room for the first 10 years while growing my business—not easy and not effective for growth. Then, I got smart and decided to work more on my business than in my business. I think I could have grown even faster had I asked for help earlier.

What were some of your early struggles?

Management, leadership, budget and compensation structure. I ran my business like a service provider rath­ er than a savvy business owner. I made

Q: A: Page 80 • www.LNEONLINE.com

the same mistake as many former techni­ cians by grossly over­ paying my team members. The one concept I naturally un­der­stood was cus­ tomer service, and KNAPP that alone allowed Skin Apeel to prevail until I developed other management skills.

How did you manage your growth?

Due to great client relations and retention, we needed to expand twice! We extended our eight hour days into 12 hour days. We are also open sev­ en days a week, and we have raised pric­ es when needed.

When did you decide to expand and how did you go about doing it?

The first expansion was seven years after inception. After a lot of hard work—seven days a week—and working through construction and mas­ sage simultaneously, we grew from four small rooms to seven comfortable rooms, plus a private nail area.

Our second expansion happened eight years thereafter. It was the same la­ bor of love, helped with strategies from my husband and a core construction team.

This time, we devoted 1,000 of our 3,000 square feet with a large retail area, because we know that retail is our money corner.

What were some of the most effective strategies that helped you grow? continues

Q: A: Q: A:

Q:

BY DORI SOUKUP Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photos courtesy of Skin Apeel

SPA OWNER KIM KNAPP BEGAN her journey as a solopreneur, and quick­ ly began building her business and her team to become a true entrepreneur.

She now has a beautiful 3,000 square foot spa with over 36 employees!

Why did you choose a career in esthetics?

I have always been drawn to beauty and wellness—the field of esthetics merges the two perfectly. I love connecting with people through touch.

Kim, can you share with us how you got started?

Early on—at age 19—my cos­ metologist’s license gave me the opportunity to either become a hair col­ orist or an esthetician. The day I finished beauty school, I arranged interviews for apprenticeships with two owners—one from a hair salon and one from a skin clinic. Whoever offered me the job would determine my career path. I was imme­ diately hired by a skin care clinic owned by three women from Yugoslavia. They collectively mentored me for four years, and my career bloomed. I had additional mentors follow, enabling me to hone in

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business|from solo-preneur to entrepreneur!

A:

Learning to build a strong and a happy team was first and fore­ most. If the team is happy, guests are happy; the recipe for a successful business is a happy, cohesive team. Word of mouth is how we grew and continue to do so, because we do not invest in any formal advertising. Skin Apeel clients freely rec­ ommend us to friends and family, and in turn, we reward them with incentives and gratitude. Loyalty is key with team members and clients alike.

We also keep it fresh in regards to ed­ ucation, environment décor and continual recreation of the menu to stay ahead of competition. Our USP (unique selling point) kept us alive during good and bad times. We were the first day spa in our city and the only one that was committed to holistic organic care—our niche—and we hold true today to our values and branding.

Team

Q: A:

When did you decide to hire the first employee?

Within a week of opening in Oct­ ober 1992, I hired my first two em­ ployees at the same time—big step! I hired one LMT and one nail specialist to create the dream team to “day spa” care for my loyal skin care clients that we fully depend­ ed on to pay my new overhead. Within months, I hired my first apprentice to build my skin care department, a step which eventually gave me part time freedom out of the room to oversee my business.

You have a very strong team, with over 36 team members, and a very low turnover rate. What is your secret?

Make them happy by treating each member with respect, genuine care on a professional and personal level, and involve them in the decision mak­ ing process. Every day, I find a reason to praise at least one team member for the small day-to-day things that contribute to our overall success.

How much focus and emphasis do you put on training your man­ agement team and therapists?

We recently improved our struc­ ture by placing four department leads in four separate service depart­

Q: A:

Q: A:

Page 82 • www.LNEONLINE.com

ments. That way, I could stop being all things to all people. I personally focus on training and directing my leads so that they, in turn, will implement the same systems and shared mindset with their teams. I am a good delegator.

All our therapists coming aboard go through a comprehensive interview pro­ cess and extensive training before per­ forming client services. We have a three month trial period which includes re­ views and open communication. This way, they stay on target to become a valuable member of our spa team. Expectations are high, but so are the rewards of being part of our spa family.

Q: A:

What is your retail philosophy?

A must! Retail recommendations complete the client’s experience at home. Retail is a service in and of itself and should not be viewed as sales. In our facility, part (of the) compensation and rewards are determined by each member’s retail success. Our team perks are structured around reaching overall spa retail targets. I was taught early in my career that a guest purchasing retail is the conversion to a loyal client, as they

Guest experience

Q: A:

How did you know how to posi­ tion your spa and find your niche in the market?

I expanded on my personal be­ liefs of care and product selec­ tion. When I decided to open a day spa, I was a vegetarian and an avid animal lover; the spa offerings reflected healthy, non-invasive, pure characteristics of my own lifestyle approach.

We hire those with the same philoso­ phy and goals. Our consistent adherence to who we are allows our clients to trust us and feel safe in our hands.

What type of menu do you offer?

Limited, but specialized. Our big­ gest category is skin care; we are unlike the typical spa, as we hire more estheticians than LMTs. From being an esthetician myself, I recognize that my skin care team is my bread and butter and a big source of revenue. We focus on our skin care as our specialty, and market ourselves as the “skin experts.”

To complement this, we offer body, nat­ ural nail and alternative care therapies.

Our acupuncturist nicely completes our holistic presence.

Q: A:

Your revenue drivers

Q: A:

What are your biggest treat­ ment revenue drivers?

Custom facials and enhancements.

Also, retail accounts for a large portion of our total spa revenue.

are reminded of you with every experi­ ence at home. We are so selective with our products that our clients come to us wanting our premier retail choices.

You have a beautiful retail area!

Can you share the product mix you offer in the boutique?

Personal care gift items, jewelry, clothing, internal supplements, aromatherapy, crystal lamps, books, greeting cards, specialty chocolate and premium bathing remedies. Every spa should have a boutique!

What would you say to someone who is not currently maximizing on retail sales?

You’ll never profit from your busi­ ness. Retail will give more return on investment than treatments. Hire a coach or consultant to guide you to de­ veloping comfortable recommendation techniques, as well as training your team and assisting with product mix selection.

It’s important to learn how to work co­ operatively with vendors to stay afloat with healthy profit margins. continues

Q: A: Q: A:

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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business|from solo-preneur to entrepreneur!

Financial management

Q:

Many people in our industry are not numbers driven and may not pay close attention to accounting.

What did you learn over the years that made a big impact on your business and success?

I am one of those people. I am a creative, hands-on-service pro­ vider by nature; that’s why I do what I do so well. It took me much too long to ask for help. I researched and hired a coach to learn the value of fair team compen­

A:

sation, team motivation, and that I had to honor a business budget. Before, the rule was that if we had money in our ac­ count, we spent it.

What advice would you give someone who is starting out or maybe been in business for a few years?

Hire a reputable consultant. Don’t wait as long as I did to open your eyes to the positive concept of change.

Since I do not have a business partner, I find alliances and business connec­ tions so valuable.

Q: A:

®

Advanced Essentials

Future

Q: A:

What do you envision for your business in the next few years?

More growth, sustainability and having my business in the best financial state to secure a prosperous sale. Developing an exit strategy takes planning and goal setting. The plan is to maximize my investment of 20 plus years of blood, sweat and tears with a worthy return.

What is the one big mistake you would tell someone to avoid?

Don’t overpay your team or let them hold you hostage. Keep the frame of mind that it’s a privilege to work in your facility. Work smarter, not harder.

Do you have any last words?

Position yourself to enjoy your business. If you can’t smile ev­ ery day when you walk through your front doors, admire your accomplish­ ments, be encouraged by your team and truly cater to your clients, stop. You need to regroup to survive this highly competitive, fast growing industry. The spa business is real. n

Q: A: Q: A:

Restore the skin’s natural, essential elements.

With our full line of collagen and ceramide boosting products.

For a youthful radiance starting at the foundation.

•Enhance Professional Treatments •Increase Retail Sales 1.877.367.7744

enspriskincare.com

facebook.com/enspri twitter.com/enspri

Dori Soukup is an executive coach, author, professional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management.

She speaks at conventions all over the world and hosts public and private seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience exponential growth and profits. She can be reached at info@insparationmanagement.com.

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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the marketplace

BY DAVID SUZUKI

HAVE YOU EVER STOPPED TO WONDER why all new car dealers are located right next to each other? How about restaurants, or even the concept of a shopping mall? Who in their right mind would set up shop right next to their competition, voluntarily entering into a fierce business battle—and pay top dollar for it?

While it sounds crazy, the reality of the mat­ ter is that competition is good. Yes, good! This is how we establish commerce, an industry, a central meeting place, and a vibrant flow of consumers giving us the opportunity to edu­ cate them on what makes us viable individual companies. This allows consumers the opportu­ nity to better discern whether or not we are the right match for them. In short, competition is the “marketplace” that our society is built upon.

Competition defines our world The very basic concept of competition has been practiced and proven effective from the begin­ ning of time. It is how every town, city, state and country have come into existence. It is what makes New York City, London and any other ma­ jor metropolitan areas what it is. Without com­

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petition, our society would not exist. Whether it be competition for land, military control, a cham­ pionship title or success in business, we are in­ stinctively driven by competition from the day that we are born. Competition actually defines who we are and the environment we live in; it is in fact measurement and incentive. This applies to the grades that we receive as school children, the final score of a sports match, the credentials on a resume, and the level of success that we achieve in business.

This is all makes perfect sense and is complete­ ly logical, so why is it that we think of competition as the enemy, and frequently set our ambitions on the shallow sites of “beating” the competi­ tion? Is that honestly the reason you started your business? Or was your ambition much more than this, heartfelt and sincere? You are probably like most entrepreneurs, and believe that you have something to offer that is unique, one of a kind, different and better than what is currently avail­ able. For this reason, you believe that you have a chance of succeeding in finding a clientele that appreciates your uniqueness. And you will, as long as you never forget why you began your journey.

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

photo: Pan Xunbin/Shutterstock.com

THE POWER OF COMPETITION

business

Who are you?

It is important to understand who your competi­ tion is and how they function. Even more impor­ tantly, however, you must understand why and how you are unique. Range Rover, Jeep and Toyota are three of many car manufacturers that offer an SUV. All three are significantly different from one another, have a unique clientele and are very successful. More often than not, their deal­ erships are located within a block of each other.

Easy enough, but how do we go about es­ tablishing or recapturing our uniqueness? Start with this simple question: Why did you start your business? The simple reason, in one sentence, is what everything must be built upon. It must resonate from your person, your environment, your team and your marketing. This is how you communicate who you are, what you represent and what you believe in. This, and only this, is what will ultimately connect you with your unique consumers, and fuel a perpetual energy that will build your future. You must have a website, and you must periodically send out electronic news­ letters to your clients and potential clients. These tools are extensions of communicating your busi­ ness identity. However, they are a waste of effort and dollars unless you sincerely understand your true purpose and what you represent.

Who is your customer?

Remember that regardless of the product or service, the entire market does not belong to one supplier—and nor should it! Every person is unique, and therefore what they buy and whom they select to do their business with are also unique. This is the beauty of a free market and a free world—choice. The point is that you should not be frustrated or distracted with what your “competition” is doing, but rather keep your fo­ cus on your objectives and identity. Be definitive in communicating what you believe in, and let the consumer make their own comparisons and decisions regarding what is right for them. Those who broadly attempt to appeal to all ultimately end up appealing to none. Remember that ev­ ery business will have their customer, and every customer is not yours! Finding the right match for you is your challenge.

Internal competition What about competition amongst your own team? This is healthy and natural. Some of April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

the largest and fastest growing companies in the world have reached their level of success through positive internal competition. The best sports teams in the world have achieved their mastery through internal competition. Strong internal competition ultimately expedites posi­ tive growth, creating an upward vacuum effect to success. This explains why children with older siblings excel more rapidly, why immigrants from challenged countries do extremely well when transplanted into a developed, productive country, and why Olympic Gold Medal winners often come from a very strong, competitive team that challenged the athlete to push their limits, propelling them forward to victory. Competition is the catalyst of growth. This stimulus is needed internally and externally.

BE DEFINITIVE IN COMMUNICATING WHAT YOU BELIEVE IN, AND LET THE CONSUMER MAKE THEIR OWN COMPARISONS AND DECISIONS REGARDING WHAT IS RIGHT FOR THEM.

Growth in failure?

While we intuitively have our sites focused on winning, experts agree that individuals undergo a significantly higher rate of growth through loss or failure than success. With this in mind, are loss and failure really what they seem? This depends on your perception. Loss and failure are essentially a measurement and a clear in­ dication that a model shift is necessary. Man’s greatest achievements have been realized via failure; however, failure to realize that a change is necessary after failure is ignorance. There is absolutely no growth in ignorance.

History has witnessed such ignorance in government bureaucracy that can become so thick that it takes choices away from its citizens.

This model has failed time and time again, yet often no change is made, as if the expectation is that magically the outcome will be different.

Einstein defined this concept as insanity.

Lessons learned What about success then? Is there anything learned when you do achieve your objective?

Certainly! As soon as the euphoria of the suc­ cess has subsided, review your strategy, prepa­ ration and execution, then repeat it. Once you find a system that works, or parts of the system that work, keep them! Make adjustments on the non-working parts of the model until you reach a consistent level of success. Refinement and perfection of your “model” is like a marriage, in that it needs to be championed consistently, continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 87

business|the marketplace

as there is always something that can be improved upon or made to function better.

There is no equity in spending your energy critiquing a competitor, while there is infinite value in defining who you are and what you represent. Your competitors are not your enemies, they are your peers. Together, you create a com­ pany, an industry and a demand. To a certain degree, you are partners, sparking each other’s interest and coaching one another going forward. Remember that your ambitions are much, much bigger than simply “beating” your competition.

You are going to change the world! n

David Suzuki, president of BioTherapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years.

He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit www.bio-therapeutic.com.

Visit us in Dallas May 5-6 @ Booth 510/512

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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Give your skin care products total balance.

The France Laure Rebalance Collection is the solution

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for combination skin; skin care containing intelligent ingredients that adapt to each facial area without neglecting the other.

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OSCAR WORTHY

On February 24, Éminence Organic Skin Care joined celebrities in the exclusive Hollywood gifting lounges. After sharing the Age Corrective Collection at last year’s Oscars, the company introduced the Age Corrective Night collection to the most elite members of the entertainment industry this year. Éminence was onsite at the SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills for the Red Carpet Style Lounge, where they treated stars to hand treatments before they officially hit the red carpet. www.eminenceorganics.com 888.747.6342

BIZNEWS

NEW PARTNERSHIP

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE Page 90 • www.LNEONLINE.com

David Suzuki, (at right) president of Bio-Therapeutic, and Douglas Sykes, principal and owner of Advanced Esthetics Solutions, celebrate their new partnership together in the UK market. Advanced Esthetics Solutions is now the exclusive distributor for all Bio-Therapeutic products and technology throughout the United Kingdom. The UK team spent a week in Seattle at Bio-Therapeutic’s corporate headquarters, gaining advanced education on all technology products and applications. Suzuki and Sallie Dietz of Bio-Therapeutic will be in London multiple times in the early part of 2013 to help support the UK market with ongoing advanced education. www.bio-therapeutic.com 800.971.6438

ONLINE MAKEOVER PCA SKIN® invites you to visit their new website at pcaskin.com. New capabilities for certified professionals include online ordering, online class registration and 24/7 access. Online educational courses are now available as well, giving clinicians the ability to learn anywhere, at any time. www.pcaskin.com 877.PCA.SKIN

DONATIONS AND SPONSORS NEEDED The technical committee for the 2013 SkillsUSA Esthetics Competition is seeking sponsors and donations for awarding the winners, contestants and models of the annual competition this June at the Kansas City Convention Center in Kansas City, MO. Awards are needed for six overall winners among the post-secondary and secondary categories, including first, second and third place awards for both.

Awards and donations may include (but are not limited to) any material or supplies new esthetics program graduates may need when beginning their career (e.g., professional backbar products, skin care tools, waxing products and tools, makeup supplies, treatment room supplies, accessories or equipment). www.skillsusa.com

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

Visible Skin Rejuvenation with Himalayan Red Rice Stem Cells

Made in USA Toll-Free: 1-888-316-3683 Ph: 1-909-923-0832 Fax: 1-909-923-0812 Email: info@dr-jeff.com Web: www.dr-jeff.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #248 on reader service card

PRIMETIME APPEARANCE

BIZNEWS

Tina Zillmann, founder and director of Skin Rejuvenation Clinique, Inc. and Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts, was recently featured on Telemundo San Antonio television, offering skin care advice for the local Hispanic and Latino population. In the prime time segment, viewers learned about healthy skin maintenance, and how the visible signs of hyperpigmentation can be prevented in both fair and dark complexions. www.arcskincare.com 800.689.0499

TELEVISED COVERAGE The revolutionary HairMax LaserComb® by Lexington International has been discussed on the hugely popular Dr. Oz Show in a televised segment on hair loss in women. The HairMax LaserComb helps provide the building blocks and energy necessary to transform weakened hair follicles, which stimulates them to grow healthy, more vibrant hair, says the company. www.hairmax.com 888.841.2535

AWARD WINNING COMPLEXIONS! Le Mieux contributed to gift bags of glamorous attendees at the pre-Oscar Red Carpet Ready event, held at Hotel Montage in Beverly Hills to celebrate the award season on February 12th. Guests received a gift bag filled with “Red Carpet” essentials, which included the Le Mieux Peptide Foam Cleanser. The cleanser removes makeup and facial impurities while hydrating delicate skin tissue, resulting in supple, soft, moisturized skin without over-drying. www.lemieuxcosmetics.com 888.327.8188

SUMMING IT ALL UP Esthetician and salon owner Gabriela Voiculescu recently published Skin and Beauty Wisdom, a book for professionals in the industry. The book is a collection of tips, tricks and home remedies Voiculescu has accumulated over the course of her long esthetic career. www.skincareprofessionals.com/ profile/GabrielaVoiculescu

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE Page 92 • www.LNEONLINE.com

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

organic & wellness life coaching

by Lyn Christian

DOES LIFE COACHING BELONG on the guest services menu of today’s spa? That question deserves more than a simple yes or no answer. First, let’s clarify what life coaching is by referring to one of the governing organizations for coaching, the International Coach Federation (ICF).

The ICF defines coaching as “partnering with clients in a thought-provoking and creative process that inspires them to maximize their personal and professional potential.” Next, let’s review a handful of outcomes often reached when hiring a life coach: • Clients get results quicker when they work with a coach than when they work alone.

• A client’s commitment to their dreams and goals increases when they have a coach working with them.

• The probability that people will give their best increases when they have a coach.

• A client’s effective utilization of the mind, body, energy and time increases when they have a coach.

• A coach can potentially see something inside of people that they would never recognize on their own.

In most cases coaching is not a healing art. With its roots in positive psychology, strength-based performance and accountability partnerships, coaching is generally utilized by individuals who are doing well and want to excel. We are not typically trained to “heal.” However, a growing trend within the world of therapy has found psychologists, social workers and wellness specialists adding coaching certification to their credentials.

Now, how might coaching fit into the spa industry? If you are a specialty or boutique spa, you may be enjoying the power derived from a precise, wellApril 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

branded focus. Consider the romantic and unique wine cave at Spa Terra inside the Meritage Resort in Napa Valley, CA. Or think of a Japanese specialty spa like the Kura Door, tucked away in the avenues of Salt Lake City. These two destinations could break rank and move outside their well-established cultures to add coaching to their menus. In my opinion, this would diminish the beauty and strength of two businesses known for romantic couples’ massages, Ofuro baths and Cabernet body scrubs.

However, if you run a spa within a resort culture that aims to “partner with clients to maximize their personal potential,” consider adding some type of coaching to your wellness practices. This could work especially well if you already offer extended day retreats, fitness programs, weight loss clinics and life changing adventures.

In such cases, you could consider offering pre-retreat preparation calls, sessions while at the resort and postvisit accountability calls from a wellness coach in the weeks following the guest’s stay. Any business that offers education or training can add coaching to their services.

In these cases, coaching one-to-one or in small groups would be an effective means for clients to sustain the personal growth they gain from the spa experience.

However, spa owners may be leaving the biggest opportunity on the table by only considering the role coaching plays on services menus.

Angie Katsanevas, the cofounder of the Lunatic Fringe Salons, says that offering work with a coach increased her business by 10 times!

Revenue can be generated by coaching employees. One company we sup-

Several spas that offer coaching: • Red Mountain Resort in Saint George, UT • Fisher Island Club in Fisher Island, FL • Birdwing Spa in Litchfield, MN port is a high-end spa/salon/store on the East Coast. By training management on how to coach the staff in personal and professional performance, they have enjoyed a return on investment. An increase of more than $375,000 was reported in the company’s third year of business after incorporating coaching into their culture.

Equally impressive is the increase in service dollars, retail sales and rebooking averages that can occur when coaching is added to the educational process inside spa/salon oriented schools. One school reported the following: “We compared February of 2011, when we were not coaching, to February of 2012, when our students were coached.

Our skin services had increased by 30 percent, with our guest count going up by 46 percent and our skin related retail up an unbelievable 97 percent.”

Coaching is the “sticky factor” that keeps sound training and business practices functioning inside any business.

Remember that all peak performers have a coach to assist and support them in achieving their best game. You and your clients deserve to be on top of your best game! n Lyn Christian is a Master Certified Coach for the International Coach Fed­ eration, as well as a life and business coach. Her business and coaching strat­ egies have been integrated into the cul­ tures of schools such as The Structural Integration Institute of Utah, Skinworks and several PMTS locations. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 93

BY CAMILLE HOHEB

CHAUM

LIFE CENTER

CHAUM LIFE CENTER IS RENOWNED IN wellness tourism for its conceptual approach to integrating health, beauty and youthful aging therapies. The enticing brochure reads, “More than a medical clinic. More than a destination spa. More than an urban club ... Chaum is a Life Center.”

Who would have thought that the inspiration for Chaum would come from the legendary American inventor Thomas Edison? The following quote from him is prominently included in their glossy marketing brochure. “The doctor of the future will give no medicine, but will interest his patients in the care of the human frame, in a proper diet and in the cause and prevention of disease.”

Opened in 2010, the center was founded by Kwang Yul Cha, M.D., the head of CHA Health Systems, which currently operates a global network of health care facilities including the Hollywood Presbyterian Medical Center in Los Angeles, 12 general hospitals in South Korea and two fertility treatment and anti-aging research centers in both countries.

“The new vision of a hospital is not a hospital at all—it is an urban oasis that people want to visit as part of their lives, a place they belong to, designed to slow the aging process through the prevention of disease,” said Cha.

I was fortunate to secure an appointment at this first class facility, where initial membership runs $170,000 USD! The Korean Tourism Organization (KTO) supported my visit. The marketing manager of KTO started my adventure into wellness by making all the arrangements. I was picked up at my hotel and off we went to Gangnam, the Beverly Hills of Seoul, made famous by the pop sensation PSY. By combining spa facilities with modern medicine, Chaum has revolutionized private health care in Korea with a “hospital” concept that includes integrated therapies, luxurious anti-aging facials, yoga studios, leading edge technologies and much more. Early diagnosis, preventive strat-

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TheraSpa lounge

egies and lifestyle changes are emphasized. Their services address a number of modern concerns, from the daily stresses of aging and urban living, serious illnesses and conditions to providing clinical tests and treatments for cerebral palsy, Parkinson’s disease and strokes. The service delivery model is based on personalized medicine designed to achieve optimal health, harmony and balance of the body, mind and spirit through positive and memorable experiences.

My half-day at the Chaum Life Center began with a long and luxurious full body massage.

April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

The Korean style of massaging the breasts was a big surprise, but a Korean woman I know later explained to me that this was sought after and appreciated by Korean women, who believe that this form of stimulation increases the bust line. When in Seoul, do as the Koreans do! Quite honestly, I was more concerned about my aching feet, and was very relieved when a second attendant came in to work on my arches, pull my toes and knead my feet. My favorite treatment, however, was the facial, which gave me a glowing, peachy complexion. Each of the three services took between 45 minutes and an hour, and I was so relaxed I could have slept in the tranquil, well-appointed TheraSpa room, but a facility tour was the next step to understanding the many offerings at the Chaum Life Center.

Located in a mixed use building in an upscale district, I found Chaum’s co-tenants to be an interesting blend. The underground level featured high end groceries ”for the rich,” I was told. The first floor featured a wine shop and a boutique for designer eyeglasses. The atrium and escalators drew my eyes skyward to the multi floor building holding the Chaum Life Center. The design, with its high ceilings and flowing apcontinues

BY COMBINING SPA FACILITIES WITH MODERN MEDICINE, CHAUM HAS REVOLUTIONIZED PRIVATE HEALTH CARE IN KOREA.

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 95

organic & wellness|chaum life center

Dr. Kwang Yul Cha believes the design esthetic that combines a futuristic vision of medical innovation with traditional healing elements allows people to live healthier and longer lives by making health care social and stimulating.

A world leader in stem cell research, Chaum has led research using stem cell fat transplantation for breast cancer reconstruction. Many international clients have chosen to invest in their future health by storing their stem cells at Chaum.

Spa treatments, restaurant access and product purchases are among the à la carte offerings for visitors. The full membership package provides full access to their own world class physician, who will lead members through a diagnostic process and treatment plan. Chaum also offers the ancient art of tea therapy, in which customized tea is designed especially for the patient.

Les Trois, the five star restaurant at Chaum, was an unexpected treat. It is a dining facility for members, where personalized gourmet cuisine is prepared for diners based on individual diagnostic profiles.

At the end of the day, after having enjoyed the hospitality and offerings of the Chaum Life Center, I went away feeling very fortunate to have experienced it firsthand. n

Camille Hoheb is the founder of Wellness Tour­ism Worldwide (WTW), whose mission is to improve well-being and economic growth through travel.

Hoheb has held advisory board po­ sitions with several associations. She speaks on the topic of wellness tourism all over the world and is a contributing writer for numerous publications. For more information, visit www.wellnesstourismworldwide.com, www.wellnesstraveljournal.com or www.camillehoheb.com.

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photos courtesy of Chaum Life Center

proach, emphasizes openness and grandeur. An abundance of light, eclectic art and interesting furnishings set the tone for futuristic treatments and attentive services.

KMD Architects, known for merging health care and hospitality design, created a medical and wellness facility with the ambiance of a five star luxury resort. The multi floor layout features expansive lounges and concierge desks evocative of hip international hotels.

Based on the Chaum philosophy of “diagnosis and care from arrival to departure, KMD Architects designed the 200,000 square foot space specifically to influence emotion and relaxation. There are no cramped waiting rooms, and initial exams are performed in a single futuristic pod like room referred to as a “medical check-up hive.” All staff and portable equipment come to the patient, rather than sending the patient to different rooms for different consultations and tests, providing an efficient, comfortable and private experience.

In my years of health care marketing, I have not seen a medical environment like this one, which combines design elements that are striking yet serene. There is a long meditation staircase with deep risers, which makes stepping more difficult. In contrast, there is a stem cell bank displayed in a museum installation behind floor to ceiling plate glass windows.

by Jenny Hogan

organic & wellness|spa partnerships providing health solutions for your community WORKPLACE WELLNESS PROgrams are now a popular way for employers to lower health care costs, improve productivity and create a balanced work environment; however overall health and wellness in the workplace still has plenty of room for improvement. According to Gallup polls, 86 percent of workers in the United States are overweight or have at least one chronic health condition. Approximately 450 million workdays are missed each year due to illness, and $153 billion is lost in worker productivity.

Perhaps workplace wellness programs need a facelift—one that includes spas!

Corporate wellness partnerships Spas can partner with professional wellness providers to help them become destinations for wellness enhancement.

Experienced wellness business coaches can provide spas with information and guidance on how to successfully integrate effective corporate wellness programs that generate revenue. Businesses can team up with spas to provide their employees with services such as massage, body treatments, energy healing or other spa treatments as part of their care plan, and as incentives for program participation. Additionally, companies can use spas as relaxing locations to conduct educational seminars, wellness classes, nutritional or product demonstrations.

Partnering with an experienced wellness provider ensures that employees April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

benefit from proven tools such as wellness coaching, education, nutritional advice, exercise plans, lifestyle counseling and more. With biometric measurements and wellness records that can be tracked, employers regularly refer to statistics for proof that the programs are working.

Some health benefits employees may experience include weight loss, reduced stress, enhanced fitness, smoking cessation and achieving a work/life balance.

Many individuals who already diet and exercise will benefit from the wellness programs too. “There are a lot of people out there who have the appearance of being healthy, but you don’t have to be overweight to have high cholesterol,” says Dana Sky, a wellness coach who works with Quantum Health and Wellness, LLC. “From an employee’s perspective, wellness programs are viewed as getting a free health screening twice a year and getting all your biometric numbers back without paying a deductible or copay. Having some of the program’s services offered at a local spa is an even bigger incentive.”

Participation in a corporate wellness program can help spas network, dramatically increase clientele and effectively grow their business within the burgeoning new corporate wellness industry. By providing corporate wellness programs and partnering with local spas, business owners may lower their insurance costs and improve their bottom line, and employees enjoy better health.

Corporate wellness program results Companies generally select a corporate wellness program provider based on the results the provider has achieved with others. The Hite Company, an electrical distributor operating in Altoona, PA, has been providing employee workplace wellness programs since 2000.

President Scott Lawhead first became interested in providing wellness programs to his employees when one of their peer companies successfully implemented their own wellness program.

“The real goal is to reduce or eliminate high insurance claims and improve the morale and overall well-being of our workforce,” Lawhead says. “Medical costs are very high. Probably 20 percent of our operating expenses are due to medical costs. If we can do something to control those costs, we should definitely try.”

The Hite Company’s corporate wellness program provider, Quantum Health & Wellness, regularly provides empirical data on the biometric measurements of employee progress. Lawhead says that his company has enjoyed many success stories from the wellness programs. “We can see total results from the biometric screenings and overall, we’ve improved in every category,” he says. “We can look at body mass and glucose levels reductions. Overall, our staff has shown improvement in every category. There’s an employee in one of our branches who, continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 97

organic & wellness|spa partnerships

through his regular health screening, was alerted that an abnormality in his blood work was found. A follow-up check with his doctor found a tumor, which was identified and successfully removed. In addition to helping this employee, we were likely saved a substantial claim cost. We have countless other examples of individual successes.”

There are many corporate advantages for implementing a wellness program. “First and foremost, from a cost perspective it’s going to give us an insight into future claims and how to reduce them,” Lawhead says. “We’re trying to reduce the risks that lead up to a quadruple bypass surgery, or those high repetitive claims that can be avoided. The advantage to our organization is that if we pay less for insurance, then the employee also pays less.” However, Lawhead advises business owners to take it slow at first and show a commitment to the cause. “Communicate the fact that the wellness programs will be a positive change. The slower you start the programs, the more buy-in you’ll get from employees. Less change is better, yet implementing the programs is always good, and there will be incredible tangible results.”

Lawhead is enthusiastic about the future of the wellness programs and their overall success. “We’ve increased the frequency for our employees receiving regular checkups, free of charge,” he says. “It can only benefit them and in the long run, it will also benefit the company.”

When business owners provide valuable wellness services for their employees, they can improve their bottom line by lowering insurance costs, increasing productivity and helping employees enjoy better health. Spas can gain clients, add services, increase their bottom line and help clients improve their health. What could be a better environment to educate individuals and help them make transformational lifestyle choices than a spa?

Now is the time to elevate and transform your spa by joining the corporate wellness segment and expanding your offerings. By teaming up with a professional wellness provider and local businesses, spas can add a valuable new revenue stream to their business. n

Jenny Hogan is the media direc­ tor at Marketing Solutions, Inc., a full-service marketing, advertising and public relations agency special­ izing in the professional beauty in­ dustry. For more information, call 703.359.6000 or email MktgSols@ MktgSols.com. For additional in­ formation on Quantum Health and Wellness, LLC, email info@QuantumHealthandWellness.com.

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Going Organic Does it really matter and is it really better?

IT COSTS MORE. IT SOMETIMES looks and smells a little weird. The information available about it is, at best, confusing. So, what’s the deal with organics and organic skin care—and why should you care?

What is organic?

Organic skin care Gay Timmons, a consultant and pioneer of organic standards, says that the existing USDA-NOP works well for food but not for cosmetics, due to the necessity of synthetic ingredients and the lack of sustainability standards in processing. The category of organic cosmet-

ics still needs to be defined to include acceptable synthetics and manufacturing practices.

Organic certification Organic farming is still a developing field worldwide and does not have globally synchronistic standards. Several agencies and governments have their own standards and criteria for organic farming and the labeling of crops grown organically. Anything claiming certified organic by a certifier’s symbol is guaranteed to be organic. The USDA green certified organic label is the most notable and accepted here in the U.S. Other qualified agencies are: • California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF), among the first in the U.S.; helped to set the standards for the current USDA program

photo: AISPIX by Image Source /Shutterstock.com

A good starting point to alleviate some of the confusion around this issue is to know what organic is, by definition. The term is used to identify a standardized form of agriculture or farming. We are not talking about the term as defined in organic chemistry; the study of carbon based molecules or hydrocarbons.

The definition of organic, according to the USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) is “a labeling term that indicates that the food or other agricultural product has been produced through approved methods that integrate cultural, biological and mechanical practices

that foster the cycling of resources, promote ecological balance and conserve biodiversity. Synthetic fertilizers, sewage sludge, irradiation and genetic engineering may not be used.”

The key point here is that organic is a term used for food and agricultural products that includes meat, milk and eggs, and does not include a finished product like skin care. When you buy organic in a finished product, you are buying a product made of ingredients that have been certified grown and processed under organic specifications.

BY JIMM HARRISON Page 100 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

organic & wellness

• Oregon Tilth Certified Organic (OTCO), another first in the U.S., and an internationally recognized symbol of organic integrity • Food Alliance, which provides sustainability standards to evaluate management practices, social and environmental performance • International organic certification The challenge for organic certification comes from the diversity of certifying groups. As mentioned, the USDA NOP certification has become the gold standard in the U.S. Across the planet, there are other qualified and reliable certifiers. These include Argencert and the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (IFOAM). The most dominant organization is Ecocert, which provides certification across the planet including Canada, Europe, Africa, China and Brazil. Japan has the Japanese Agricultural Standards, and Australian Certified Organic is the certifier for Australia.

Demeter and SIMPLES The Demeter Biodynamic® Farm Stand­ ard and Syndicat Inter Massifs Pour la Production Et L’Eonomie Des Simples (SIMPLES) take organic standards to an elevated and more stringent level of agricultural production. Both are based on biodynamic farming, a holistic selfsustaining system developed by Rudolf Steiner in 1924. Ingredients carrying either of these certifications, especially in medicinal herbs and essential oils, would qualify as the highest standard of organic quality.

What is the value of organic?

This is the big question on the minds of those who are thinking about “going” organic. Organic ingredients, and the resulting products, do cost more.

There is a higher cost to organic farming, including the cost of certification.

Is it worth it? Should you buy organic?

Buying and growing organic is an environmental issue, and is also focused on the ethical treatment of animals and fair trade for farmers. From one perApril 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

spective, organic farming is more sustainable, and is designed to protect the planet and human health from environmental hazards, pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers that are deemed toxic.

Timmons’ logic for using organic skin care is, “If it’s safe for the planet, it’s safe for the body.” This doesn’t necessarily mean that ingredients penetrate the skin as the consumer safety groups may claim. The more accurate understanding is that what goes down the drain ends up in our water, food and air.

Organic refers to the use of renewable chemicals and manufacturing in a way that is not compromising the planet.

No GMOs Organic grown means no genetically modified organisms (GMOs). This is a technology that combines genes to create new food seeds, such as a fish gene spliced into a tomato seed, and includes most of the U.S. production of corn and soy. This is an important topic—seen as a potential environmental disaster by opponents—that all would be well advised to understand. Non-organic cosmetics may contain a high amount of genetically modified extracts.

Is organic more nutrient rich?

The issue of whether organic is more nutrient rich may not be necessary to debate in regards to personal care products because the penetration of ingredients through the skin is still questioned.

The major studies that have been done show that organic ingredients do indeed have higher nutritional value, and provide more robust botanicals.

Does natural mean organic?

Natural is a fuzzy, confusing subject.

When something is labeled “natural,” that does not mean it was grown organically or is certified organic. Organic, when certified, is a guarantee that an ingredient or food was grown under organic conditions. Most organic ingredients used in skin care are extracts. Organic certification guarantees the extraction

process is free from certain chemicals and technology.

Currently, natural is a useless terminology. The discussion of whether something is natural or not often ties in with the discussion of whether natural is better or not. Here we should dismiss the idea of better and make a decision based on your personal criteria.

You can choose ingredients based on a desire to use only extracts or compounds that occur in nature. You will be challenged to do this in skin care and cosmetics. Formulas need certain synthetics to form creams, lotions and cleansers. To understand natural ingredients, it is necessary to educate yourself. Don’t believe the marketing of any one brand, and make logical, fact-based conclusions.

Many ingredients that are called natural are the synthetic emulsifiers; cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid and vegetable emulsifying wax; solvents like propylene glycol; and surfactants, such as the “natural soaps.” One trick often used by soap brands is to call their ingredient an organic saponified vegetable oil. This is misleading. A saponified vegetable oil is a synthetic chemical that must be made by humans and is not found in plants. The technical term for a natural saponified vegetable oil soap made from coconut oil and the base ingredient potassium hydroxide is potassium cocoate, a synthetic also sometimes called castile soap. Though it is a synthetic, there is still value for the originating food product, coconut, to be grown and processed organically.

Preservatives in organic formulas The preservative issue is a challenging one for manufacturers and consumers.

The most commonly used preservatives are parabens. Now that parabens have been marked as toxic, the compound phenoxyethanol is used in so-called natural formulas. Preservatives are a fiercely debated topic and a discussion for a separate article. continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 101

organic & wellness|going organic

The ideal preservative for use in organic skin care products is organic certified ethanol; cane, grain or grape alcohol. This is not a denatured alcohol.

There are no contraindications with this ingredient; it is a full-spectrum, efficacious preservative. There are very few manufacturers using ethanol, due to its higher cost.

Current guidelines for natural and organic skin care and cosmetics The U.S. and the USDA do not have a program in place to qualify or certify organic cosmetics. Any product claiming to be organic will certify the ingredients, not the formula. USDA will allow their label to be placed on products that have 95 percent or more certified organic ingredients in their formula, if the remaining five percent are on their accepted list. Ecocert has a certification for

organic and natural cosmetics that can be read at www.ecocert.com/en/naturaland-organic-cosmetics. The Natural and Organic Cosmetic Alliance (www.nocalliance.org), a newly formed trade group in the U.S. led by Timmons, is working on organic cosmetic certification.

Choosing organic The organic consumer market is growing, making it beneficial to offer organic and natural products and services. If you are making a decision to go organic, be careful not to be misled by marketing, even from those brands showing certification.

Brand marketing can be misleading, incorrect and inconsistent with facts. In order to ensure your guests receive accurate and up to date information, it may be best to find a consultant seasoned in natural and organic cosmetics who can provide you with solid education, or take classes that are not sponsored by a brand.

The bottom line is that buying and selling organic is best for the health of the planet and all forms of life on the planet. Including organic in your business demonstrates integrity and shows that you care. n Jimm Harrison is an author, ed­ ucator and con­ sultant on es­ sential oils and holistic health with more than 25 years of ex­ perience in the beauty industry. He has developed pro­ grams, workshops and aromatherapy certificate courses for esthetics, medispa and nutritional skin care. Harrison shares how to create the Essential Oil Natural Health and Medicine Kit at www.jimmharrison.com.

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by Robert Sachs

|fasting

photo: Auremar/Shutterstock.com

organic & wellness FASTING. THIS WORD, USED AS a solution to all of our dietary woes and guilty feelings about what we enjoy but really shouldn’t says it all. As America wakes up to the reality that diet and health are related, some turn to a “fast” solution to clean out, detox and begin anew.

Hence, most of the fasts that are explored are extreme (water only, fruit only, brown rice only, cider vinegar and water, lemon juice plus maple syrup and cayenne pepper). Indeed, these approaches have their merits, but become far less effective if all they do is punctuate a diet and lifestyle that is woefully out of balance.

In Ayurveda, the science of life from the East that I teach with my wife Melanie, fasting as a form of detoxification is based on a person’s constitution, which in Sanskrit is known as Prakruti. One’s current condition and the influence of season and environment is known in Sanskrit as Vikruti.

Regarding this latter point, after the jolly mood of the Christmas and New Year’s holiday season, many try to shed pounds, feeling a sense of shame and guilt for overindulging and gaining a little weight by juice fasting and so forth. According to Ayurveda, we actually need to eat a little more in the winter time, and perhaps put on a little more weight to cope with the cold, wind and all the other variations of winter. Like other mammals, we need to think in terms of hibernation. This is not the time to fast or add an intense workout program to your daily routine. Wait until spring, around the time of the vernal equinox in March. This is the first time of the year that one should consider fasting or intensifying their health regime.

April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Besides spring, the fall or the autumnal equinox are also good times for fasting. Consider a time period of about nine days before and nine days after these seasonal transitions. This is in keeping with Chinese medicine. The 18-day period around the summer solstice is relatively fine, but do not think in these terms around the winter solstice, regardless of whether you have been naughty or nice.

Prakruti, or constitution, is an important aspect of oriental medicines. In Ayurveda, this model is close to but cannot be exactly equated to the ectomorph, mesomorph and endomorph types as outlined in Western medicine. However, some generalities that are similar can be useful when illustrating the type of fasting that is best for different body-mind types.

tive skin that freckles or burns easily in the sun. They have fine hair, an athletic, mesomorphic frame, eyes that are blue or sensitive to too much light. Their mind tends to be more critical, and they get bothered by a stifling environment or lack of a breeze. A Pitta could follow a fasting diet made up of fruit or vegetable juice.

Raw fruits and vegetables could also be eaten. They should eat when they feel hungry, which may be more often than they think they should be eating. The point is, they should not let themselves get overly hungry.

Clients could come in once a week and receive treatments, supplemented with meals or snacks in keeping with their constitution and condition.

Your client has a Vata constitution if the following characteristics describe them: The client has dry skin and hair, a long, thin frame (ectomorph) and joints that pop. They move quickly, both in body and mind, and get irritated by the cold and wind. A fast for Vata types should be a simple diet of grain and cooked vegetables, as is found in standard macrobiotics. Do not offer them a fast of raw juice or fruit, as that will make them feel bloated, constipated and spacey.

You can identify individuals with a Pitta constitution if they demosntrate certain characteristics. They have more sensi-

Individuals with a Kapha constitution have heavier, thicker and clammier skin, thick bones and a more dense, endomorphic frame. They put on weight easily, and while their mind is slow to grasp things, it ultimately can retain what it learns. Kapha individuals tend to be lethargic. A fasting diet for a Kapha can consist of complete abstinence from all food and drink.

Instead they should consume hot beverages such as ginger tea and salty broths.

A fast of raw foods or juices will only make them put on weight, and they will be disappointed with the results they get. continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 103

organic & wellness|fasting Vikruti, or one’s condition, follows the same logic with respect to Vata, Pitta and Kapha symptoms.

Hence, if one has patchy and dry skin, is constipated, feels spaced out, tends to push themselves too far and shifts between periods of feeling hyper-driven and exhausted (Vata), they should follow a fast that adheres to the Vataconstitutional lines.

If one’s skin has flare-ups, and they are experiencing diarrhea, feeling nauseous a lot, suffering from migraines and finding themselves getting angry or listless about everything and everyone (Pitta), then they should follow the Pitta-constitutional fasting recommendations.

If one’s skin is congested, their digestion is slow, they feel heavy, lethargic and unmotivated (Kapha), then they should follow the Kapha-constitutional recommendations.

For how long should one fast? Fasting is a change (change itself is an aggravating event for Vatas). This means that

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things are moving and adjusting more quickly than usual, which can be disorienting. One may notice that the time they eat and their preferences change, their sleep patterns and moods are altered, and they feel different in their own bodies. These can all be signs of great achievements. However, if one notices that their digestion starts slowing down, they are getting spacier or forgetful, and they start feeling overly sensitive to stimulation, it may be best for them to wind the fast down and begin the process of converting to a more sustainable daily dietary regimen.

This last point is crucial. Too often, people with bad habits do a fast, after which they promptly resume their bad habits.

In this situation, fasting can yield few results, and can actually be more hard on their body than beneficial. Fasting should be considered a gentle recalibration of the body and mind— meant to get an individual back on track. Even the more purging methods of Ayurveda are done in this gentle, mindful way.

Fasting should be done by individuals who are in relatively good health. If they are very sick, chronically exhausted or weak, it is better for them to focus on getting themselves a bit stronger before beginning a fast. Fasting makes the body work harder, and if someone is already depleted in energy, it is better to rest and replenish nutrients in the body rather than start a fast. What this means is that people need to understand what works best as a general diet for their body-mind type (constitution). Ayurveda and other holistic systems of medicine can provide the guidelines on what to eat. My preference is to go with the recommendations of systems that have been around for thousands of years (such as Ayurvedic and/ or Chinese medical dietary guidelines, which are time tested).

On a final note: One of our teachers, Vasant Lad, M.A.Sc, encourages people to do a simple fast once a week. Think about it—if you did this, you would be fasting 52 days a year!

What would it be like if your spa were to offer fasting days?

Clients could come in once a week and receive treatments, supplemented with meals or snacks in keeping with their constitution and condition. They would then be sent home with a to-do list of what to eat for the rest of the day, and how to transition into the coming week with great energy and clarity.

In that way, we change the language of fasting from a context of deprivation to one of nurturing—something each one of our clients could probably use a lot more of! n

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Robert Sachs is a counselor, licensed massage therapist and educator. He is the author of Tibetan Ayurveda: Health Secrets From the Roof of the World and coauthor with Melanie Sachs of Ayurvedic Spa. Visit Sachs’ website at www.DiamondWayAyurveda.com, email him at ayurveda8@earthlink.net, call him at 866.303.3321 or phone/ fax him at 805.543.9291.

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Treat yourself to the unforgettably fresh, juicy, luscious experience of the spring fruit harvest - on the outside as well as the inside. Yogurt and honey make the skin silky smooth, while peaches, apricots and other antioxidantrich fruits and herbs make it healthy, strong and revitalized.

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Page 106 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

image fresh look

photo: AISPIX by Image Source /Shutterstock.com

by Shawn Towne

THERE’ S JUST SOMETHING about putting on a fresh new pallet that revitalizes the spirit. Spring is an opportunity to reinvent oneself, but women are often baffled by the prospect of updating their look for a new season because there are so many colors and products to choose from. Spring beauty doesn’t always mean pink blush and pastel eye shadows. Sometimes, the update comes in the form of a finish rather than a specific color. Here are a few tips that will take the guesswork out of achieving a fresh look for spring.

Moisture first: After months of cold winter temperatures and dehydrating heaters, the first order of business is to put moisture back into the skin. Start by applying a good moisturizer while the skin is still damp from cleansing. Next, use a generous drop of a moisturizing primer. Work it in with fingers or a synthetic foundation brush. This will help makeup adhere, smooth skin’s texture and provide a hydrated finish.

Start glowing: At winter’s end, skin can often look drab and blotchy. BB creams are a great way to wake the skin up and provide beautiful, even color. Apply it with fingers, using a small drop at a time, and blend well. BB creams have a more substantial and emollient texture than traditional liquid foundations, so blending is important. Use a soft sponge to finish blending. This will help you to achieve a smooth velvet finish.

Get cheeky: A fresh hint of color in the cheeks is the time tested essence of youth and vitality. This is most necessary in early spring when we are still pale from the winter. A hydrating cream blush gives cheeks a natural, dewy looking flush. Apply it to just the apples of the April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

cheeks, and blend upward with fingers or a blending brush. Finish with a hint of a rosy bronzer around the outer perimeter of the face, using a fan brush to enhance luminosity.

Eye opening: Using luster rather than color to make the eyes pop is an excellent way to give the face a bright, awake look that is fresh and appealing. Apply a delicate shimmer powder in a color of your choice to the entire lid and then highlight the brow bone with a white or bone colored eye shadow using a long, flat medium density eye shadow brush. Line the top of the eyelid with a soft color that smudges easily. Kohl eyeliners are best for soft lining because they are more like a shadow than a liner. Drag the applicator across the lid or apply with a smudge brush for a softer deposit of color.

Lash out: Enhance the eyes with one of the hottest trends of the season—thick, full lashes. Apply a lash conditioner first to prime the lashes, and condition them at the same time. Then apply a black or black/brown lengthening mascara on top.

Using a back and forth motion, gently push the brush into the lashes while the conditioner is still slightly wet for irresistibly flirty lashes.

Brow beat: Fuller brows are both trendy and attractive for spring as the classic frame for light, luminous eyes. A brow kit that contains a colorless brow powder and wax will fill brows in with a long lasting pigment that looks gorgeous for day or night. Apply the wax first with a short, slanted synthetic brow brush all over the brows. Then fill in with the powder appropriate for the wearer’s hair color. Keep in mind that the brows do not need to match like a mirror image. Nobody has a symmetrical face, so

one brow will always be slightly different than the other.

The first kiss: Shine on the lips is a timeless way to create a beautiful, hydrated lip. With the help of a lip pencil or stain underneath a gloss, you can enhance dynamically for day or night. When applying lip gloss, concentrate the largest amount in the center of the bottom lip and blend out from there. This will help stop gloss from creeping into the corners of the lips, where it can get messy and look heavy.

The most important tip is to get out of your comfort zone and try some new products, shades or technique. Makeup is an ever changing palette that allows the wearer diversity and flexibility like no other category in esthetics. Keep an open mind, try new trends and never be afraid to evolve! n

Shawn Towne, the global educator of jane iredale—THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP®, has worked as a makeup artist for over 20 years. His talent has been featured in fashion magazines, runway shows, television commercials and feature films.

Towne has worked with celebrities such as Mariel Hemingway, Eartha Kitt and Luke Wilson. He worked with the jane iredale team on the 2008 Fashion Week runway shows, and most recently taught classes in the Far East. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 107

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VINTAGE CRYSTAL NECKLACE, PASTE EARRINGS AND DIAMOND RINGS: PRIVATE VINTAGE COLLECTION OF NANCY ROSS

Jewel inspired!

Makeup artist Pamela Taylor creates color palettes that look breathtaking both in front of and behind the camera.

BY PAMELA TAYLOR

Bliss

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAREN THOMAS

JEWELRY CONSULTANT/STYLIST: NANCY ROSS HAIR: BARBARA LHOTAN

BRIDAL GOWN: JAMIE PESAVENTO COUTURE

MOONSTONE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS: BELLA CAMPBELL; 6 STRAND PEARL NECKLACE: PATRICIA VON MUSULIN; FRENCH CRYSTAL HAIRPIECE: FLOODS CLOSET

THE BLEND OF SUBTLE COLOR IN THE PEARLS INSPIRE THE PEARL AND VIOLET SHADES THAT GIVE THE FACE A SOFT, POLISHED FINISH.

BRIDAL GOWN AND VEILS: MICHAEL SHANE BRIDAL; IVORY EARRINGS: PATRICIA VON MUSULIN; CELLULOID NECKLACE: PRIVATE COLLECTION OF NANCY ROSS

INSPIRED BY THE IVORY JEWELS, THE FINISH IS PURE AND MATTE, ENHANCING THE LIPS AS A FEATURE.

A FRESH, ROMANTIC FINISH ENHANCES LUMINOUS PEARL JEWELS.

PEARL NECKLACE AS BRACELET: PATRICIA VON MUSULIN; DIAMOND RING COURTESY OF DELPHINE LEBLANC; WEISS CLASP: PRIVATE COLLECTION OF NANCY ROSS

ALL JEWELRY COURTESY OF THE VINTAGE PRIVATE COLLECTION OF NANCY ROSS; A SPECIAL THANKS TO SHOOT ASSISTANT DELPHINE LEBLANC; BRIDAL COUTURE, COURTESY OF MICHAEL SHANE BRIDAL

image

PAGE 109

PAGE 110

makeup techniques PAGE 109. This look was created to bring out the depth of the metal in the jewels and highlight the eyes.

Foundation: Skin is prepped using a pre-base prior to makeup application. A crème tinted smoothing foundation is applied to reduce freckles and smooth the skin.

Crème blush: A tint of deep violet crème blush is gently blended and applied to the apples of the cheek using a dampened sponge. A pearl luminizer highlights cheekbones and upper brow bone areas.

Face: The face and cheekbones are powdered to set the crème. Then the facial structure is shaded using a contour powder.

Eyes: Lids are color washed in a pure yellow to enhance the model’s golden-green eyes. A smoky black and silver liner mimic the natural shape of the lower lid.

Lips: Lips are painted with a sheer pink pearl gloss, allowing the natural lip color to peek through as an undertone.

This look was created to bring out the depth of the metal in the jewels and draw attention to the eyes.

PAGE 110. The blend of subtle color in the pearls inspire the pearl and violet shades that give the face a soft, polished finish.

Skin is tinted a shade deeper using a smoothing foundation.

Structure: A pearl crème highlight enhances the upper cheekbones and center bridge of the nose. The face is powdered to set, then temples and cheekbones are contoured using a taupe brown shading powder.

Cheeks: Cheeks are tinted with temples, and cheekbones are contoured using a taupe brown shading powder and plum-rose crème blush, then blended to a sheer wash.

Brows: Eyebrows are color brushed with a deeper rustblonde shadow to thicken, then brushed upward.

Eyes: Eyelids are enhanced with a soft tan shimmer shadow.

Lower lids are lined with a blended shade of violet and black.

Lips: A rose crème lip color glosses and tints the lips.

PAGE 111. Inspired by the ivory jewels, the finish is pure and matte, enhancing the lips as a feature.

PAGE 111

PAGES 112-113

Foundation: A highly pigmented crème foundation is mixed to match and blended to create a smooth finish to the face.

Cheeks: Cheeks are color washed in a pale beige pink crème cheek color. An ivory beige cheek highlight is applied to the upper cheekbone.

Set: The base and cheek color are powdered to set, creating a matte finish for the face.

Eyes: To enhance the deep blue color of the eyes, a rich blend of rust and copper brown shadow is applied to the lid, mixed with a white shadow to lighten the inner third of lid.

The eyes are then lined with the deeper rust and black cake liners, adding a sweeping finish to the outer edge. Matte black waterproof mascara enhances the natural lashes.

Lips: Following the application of a sheer beige lip crème, a generous application of pure gloss is applied to the center lip areas.

PAGE 112-113. A fresh, romantic finish enhances luminous pearl jewels.

Foundation: Skin is tinted with a water-base foundation, kept natural to allow the freckles to peek through. A crème bronzer is applied to the cheekbones and facial areas to give the skin a tint of tan.

Brows: Eyebrows are gently tinted with a blond-brown powder, then shaped.

Eyes: Soft ivory pearl shadow mimics the pearl bracelet, and a cocoa brown shadow is applied to the inner third corner.

Eyes are finished with a generous application of waterproof deep cocoa mascara.

Lips: A crème lip tint in neutral beige-pink is applied to coat the lips. A soft taupe liner outlines the natural shape of the lips. n Pamela Taylor is an internationally recognized authority on editorial print and fashion makeup. Known for her hydration technique, she is often referred to for current makeup trends and techniques. Based in New York City, Taylor boasts an extensive celebrity clientele. She is owner and director of the Pamela Taylor Makeup Academy and Studio of New York. For more information, call 212.620.5792 or visit www.pamelataylor.com.

Page 114 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

by Patti Biro

image|say “I do” to the bridal business

ONE OF THE BEST STRATEGIES you can utilize for business success in the years ahead is to embrace the bridal business. All brides spend money to look beautiful and feel great on their special day. Shouldn’t you be part of their plan?

There is no time like the present to attract the bridal business and reap the benefits all year round. If you are one of those people who groans at the thought of taking on the bridal business, consider these 10 great reasons to embrace this market.

photo: AISPIX by Image Source/Shutterstock.com

# 1. Brides are everywhere Whether you live in a large metropolitan area or a small town, weddings are big business. For the first time since 2008, the cost of an average wedding is beginning to rise. Weddings are ringing in at an average cost of $27,000—and that does not include the honeymoon! You can profit from the bridal business even if you are a solo practitioner, or if your business is in a small town or rural location.

# 2. The bridal business is virtually recession proof Even in times of economic stress, couples still get married and spend money on their wedding (similar to holiday spending trends). Even though the frequently uttered phrase, “You only get married April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

once” is only sometimes true, it tugs on the emotional heartstrings of the bride, reminding her that she deserves to have the wedding she has dreamed of since childhood.

but creating a plan and building trust helps to manage this, and the financial reward is great.

# 3. Encore brides are a new and growing market

Stop for a minute and think about the broad range of vendors that a newly engaged couple will need as they plan their wedding. Building business relationships with vendors in your market who are also involved in the bridal business will help grow your B2B referral business all year round. One massage therapist who met a private chef at a recent bridal show teamed up with her and began to offer in home private dinners, complete with a couples massage.

The current divorce rate in the United States is above 40 percent—and this has created an entirely new bridal market.

Encore brides are those who marry for the second, third or even fourth time.

They are likely to be older, better off financially and able to spend money on those things that they could not afford the first time around.

# 4. Brides rarely travel solo Brides travel in packs—with mothers, attendants, friends and others. When you reach out to brides, you are likely to capture more than one potential new customer. Mothers of the bride and groom are great potential long term guests, as they want to look their best on the big day too!

# 5. The bridal business has a long “planning phase” Most engagements range from six to twelve months, with some brides planning for even longer periods. This gives you an opportunity to consult with the bride, her entourage and her friends to create a personalized plan. Design your marketing to the bride based on developing a relationship over twelve, six or even three months. Yes, there is a certain amount of stress related to weddings,

#6. The referral network is large and diverse

# 7. The bridal business does not end with the wedding After the wedding, the new customers you have acquired should be part of your guest retention plan. Bridal guests turn into maternity massage clients and seekers of other women’s wellness services! Even if they move away from your town, you have still made valuable connections with their friends, family members and attendants.

# 8. Brides buy retail products Retail products can be a profitable part of your total bridal business. Why not offer a bridal registry for the couple offering both retail products and services?

In a world where couples can register for everything from a kayak to a coffee maker, why not add spa services? continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 115

image|say “i do” # 9. Grooms are great clients too

SPECIALTY WORKSHOPS SPRING/SUMMER

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#10. Brides, grooms and parties go together Bridal showers, attendant spa days and bachelorette parties are an important part of many weddings. If your venue and staff can accommodate parties, this is an opportunity for booking one or more bridal “spa parties.” The solo practitioner could easily join forces with another salon or business to host a party.

Don’t miss out on the chance to say “I do” to a target market that is looking for you! n

Are you a beauty enthusiast who loves makeup and all things beauty?

Patti Biro has more than 25 years of experience designing and implementing professional education and client education programs. She is the creator of Elder-ssage™, a massage therapy program focusing on the needs of aging adults, and the owner of Patti Biro and Associates, a professional education consulting company. She is a frequent lecturer for the International Medical Spa Association. Biro owned a bridal magazine for over 10 years in the coastal Texas market, and remains an avid fan of all things bridal!

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image

PEDICURISTS REGULARLY SEE FEET WITH “out-of-normal” indications of infections, so they must recognize possible symptoms of infection when they are present (without diagnosing).

Certain symptoms on the feet indicate the need for a direct referral to a podiatrist. Examples of common infections seen by pedicurists are athlete’s foot, fungal nails and papilloma virus (plantar warts).

Developing a collaboration with a podiatrist Most podiatrists are not open to working with nail technicians unless the technician proves the accumulation of correct knowledge and then continually demonstrates that he or she works aseptically (asepsis is defined as “without disease”).

professional collaboration between podiatrists and nail technicians

photo: wavebreakmedia/Shutterstock.com

“Obviously a huge disconnect exists between both of our professions, and understandably so,” says Jan Ondrejca, M.N.T., owner of Stone House Inn and Spa in Allentown, PA. “But nail technicians are out there, like myself and my colleagues, that truly care about offering a professional service that includes the high standards that safety podiatrists require. Podiatrists respond well when they recognize that our standards are what they want for their patients, and then they refer their patients to us.”

To demonstrate asepsis, the technician must practice her trade in a clean environment and consistently work in a safe, hygienic manner. This includes wearing new gloves for every client, removing them in a safe way after the service, practicing appropriate hand washing and disinfecting their continues

BY ROBERT SPALDING, D.P.M.

April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 117

image|professional collaboration

Gaining collaboration Usually the nail technician must open the discussion for collaboration with a podiatrist. This collaboration usually involves the podiatrist referring his patients to the salon because of his trust in their safety practices, and the nail salon refers clients to the podiatrist that have “out-of-normal” conditions of the foot. The podiatrist sends all referred clients back to the nail technician for pedicures after healing. But a simple claim that they work safely does not convince the podiatrist that collabo-

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ration is a good idea; the podiatrist must feel fully confident that the technician is prepared to perform tasks with proper safety. That usually means there is apparent proof that they have completed a training course focusing on aseptic practices. For example, a certificate indicating the student has attended this training in a structured program and has passed exams may be hanging on the wall. When the podiatrist’s patients have pedicures in the salon or spa, they report on work habits and conditions that demonstrate the legitimacy of the training and certifications.

Health information and precautions One of the safety requisites podiatrists want to see in a salon or spa is the use of a client health information sheet, completed prior to the service. Podiatrists believe that health information must be available in order for a technician to perform services appropriately.

“According to the CDC, almost 12 percent of Americans have diabetes, and another nine percent have other chronic illnesses,” says Janet McCormick, author and co-owner of Medinail Learning Center. “This means approximately 20 percent of Americans have a chronic disease of some kind. So, potentially, 20 percent or more of nail salon clients may have a chronic illness.”

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photo: Dean Bertoncelj /Shutterstock.com

nail stations between services.

Onetime use implements and supplies are thrown away, and re-usable implements are safely cleaned to aseptic standards between uses. Aseptic practices are more extensive than “just being clean.” To most podiatrists, this means the technician utilizes an autoclave to sterilize the implements, is properly trained and fully committed to in-service aseptic techniques and safety.

image|professional collaboration

TO DEVELOP THIS RELATIONSHIP, THE SALON OR SPA MUST FIRST SEEK THE COLLABORATION, BE COMMITTED TO MAINTAINING THESE STANDARDS AND TO CONTINUING TO EDUCATE THE TECHNICIANS.

The clients McCormick speaks of need special care, so important precautions must be taken to perform safe pedicures. New clients must fill out a form before their first service.

The information they provide in this form should be updated during each pedicure when the pedicurist asks, “Has anything changed in your health since I last saw you?” But sadly, only a few salons collect this information, and even fewer are trained in performing the needed precautions on persons with chronic diseases, such as diabetes mellitus and many others. Unless they have attended safety-focused courses that meet the training requirements of working with these clients, podiatrists are uncomfortable referring their patients to salons for pedicures.

Times are changing Collaborations are now developing between nail technicians and podiatrists. “Our practice always recommends Stone House Inn and Spa, Allentown, PA, with the highest praises,” says Brad Lilly, D.P.M. “We can attest to the cleanliness and professionalism that they offer. They refer clients to us for the same reason, so we have a solidly professional relationship.”

Ondrejca nurtures this relationship through education of her technicians, maintenance of standards and provisions of brochures and other materials to Dr. Lilly’s practice. Mutual respect is the result, as well as clientele growth for each business.

To develop this relationship, the salon or spa must first seek the collaboration, be committed to maintaining these standards and to continuing to educate the technicians.

This will result in a continual flow of clients between the collaborating practice and salon or spa. These clients will never leave the spa or practice due to the demonstration of trust the podiatry practice has for the facility. n Robert Spalding, D.P.M., is a licensed podiatrist in Chatta­ nooga, TN, author of The Science of Pedicures and co-owner of the Medinail Learning Center. For more information, visit www.medinails.com.

Biomani Advanced Medical Aesthetics & Laser Institute Fathi G Fam, M.D, M.S 855-238-8333 Medical Aesthetics Certification Biomani is the vital difference that brings your skin to life Biomani SkinCare products provide the latest, most advanced ingredients for the protection of skin against the effects of time and environment. Biomani advanced bio-formulation of moisture smoothes fine lines, hydrates with a touch that stays light and protects from the daily effects of dryness. The results are impressive, younger-looking skin with visible renewed texture and an after glow that lasts. Try Biomani today and you will receive compliments galore. www.biomaniskincare.com

Aestheticians & nurses are expanding their role by becoming medical aestheticians to work with a doctor or on their own. They are required to perform advanced chemical peels with pure acids and skin care procedure. Merging light medical science with aesthetic knowledge is extremely crucial to succeed at this level. Our program, which is approved by the State of TX, sets you apart from others. ( Financing is available) www.medicalaestheticscertification.com

Laser Certification Program ( Financing is available) The Biomani Laser Certification Institute has the programs that focus in depth and has truly qualified and certified aestheticians, cosmetologists, nurses and doctors to practice laser skin techniques such as laser hair removal, tattoo removal, IPL & others . Biomani offers a large state-of-the-art tools and resources. Our classes are limited in size to allow for individual attention for each student. The primary objective of the highly trained and experienced faculty at the Biomani Laser Certification Institute is to make sure each student is capturing the knowledge he/she needs to utilize their full potential in the medical aesthetics profession and Laser skin care, allowing them to achieve their new exciting goals and career. www.biomanilasercertificationinstitute.com

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www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 119

trends

in beauty and organic makeup

BY ANNIE MAYO Page 120 • www.LNEONLINE.com

USDA Organic Seal may be applied to a product if it is confirmed to contain only organically produced ingredients (excluding water and salt). “Made with organic ingredients” statements may be used when the product is 70 percent organic. This is a very high standard in the cosmetic market, and very few products are able to make such claims. That rating and anything higher may not have petroleum based ingredients, which are drying, sensitizing and occlusive (causing clogged pores) to the skin.

In more recent years, cosmetic companies have taken the stance of being natural and organic, because they know the public is becoming concerned about the safety, purity, comfort and efficacy of their beauty products. In short, clients want the benefits of natural makeup, and companies want clients to be content with what they put on their skin. Here are some of the benefits that can be reaped from organic makeup: • It helps sensitive skin and causes fewer skin irritants such as dermatitis, allergic reactions, redness, burning and blistering.

• It is free of mineral oil (a petroleum byproduct that clogs pores and traps dirt and bacteria), parabens (irritating and harmful to the skin), preservatives (which are toxic) and talc (a mineral that’s similar to asbestos).

• It contains fewer ingredients, which means a lower possibility of irritants and fewer adverse reactions (which often occurs in more complex formulations). This also leaves room for more effective antioxidants, such as natural sunscreen (titanium dioxide).

• They contain fewer toxins such as lead, mercury, placenta and fragrances, which can irritate and cause redness to sensitive skin.

1.

• They are often cruelty free because they require fewer processing stages, even with the acceptance of natural and organic raw ingredients.

Now let’s talk runway beauty trends.

Whenever I am asked about beauty trends, I always offer my answer “with a grain of salt,” for the simple reason that most women feel they can’t wear some of the colors they see on the runway. The truth is that they can wear any color, it all just depends on undertones. Spring makeup is all about letting natural beauty shine through, with makeup acting as a supplement.

IMAGE 1: For healthy, glowing skin, start with a hydrated face that has been dabbed with a good amount of moisturizer. While skin is still damp from the moisturizer, apply a lightweight, chemical-free foundation to create the perfect canvas. Using an organic or vegan foundation helps create a natural, dewy look without harming the skin. Make sure the foundation shade matches your client’s skin and blend it down the neck to make it look natural. Flawless looking

2.

eyeshadow: Picsfive/Shutterstock.com

REGARDLESS OF HOW PRETTY IT appears on the face, conventional makeup contains harsh chemicals that can pose damaging, even carcinogenic effects on the skin. Fortunately, with natural and organic makeup now on the rise, people don’t have to risk damaging their skin in the quest for beauty. Natural and organic makeup products have become more than just a fad in the cosmetic industry. Consumers today are well aware of the harmful ingredients their beauty products contain; hence organic products have become increasingly popular, and they are here to stay.

One organic makeup trend that companies now favor is mineral makeup.

Mineral makeup was first introduced in the late 1970s, but didn’t come into full fruition until it was created as a 100 percent pigment product, free of preservatives, binders, fillers, perfumes and other harmful ingredients. To this day, traditional cosmeceutical companies still use these harmful ingredients to extend the product’s shelf life and increase profit margins. Many cosmetic companies promote their products as containing “natural minerals,” yet you will find the minerals listed at the bottom of the ingredient list. Remember, cosmeceutical grade ingredients are not as beneficial to consumers as pharmeceutical grade ingredients, as the latter utilizes Grade A pharmaceutical raw ingredients, and are subject to FDA regulations.

So, what exactly constitutes a makeup product as being natural or organic?

Any “organic” claim must be a product that is 95 percent organically produced, and the other five percent must be substances from the official national list. The

image of blendable concealer to outline the lips and clean up the corners. Blot with tissue to ensure it stays in place all night.

IMAGE 4: Define the lids with a thick coat of eyeliner. Colored eyeliner in bold pastel shades rocked the runway this spring, but black also works and is more wearable. The key to perfectly applying liquid eyeliner is to have a steady hand and follow the natural line of the eye. Heavily lined eyes were recently featured in the shows of Altuzarra, Erin Fetherston and BCBG Max Azria.

3. faces have been seen on the runways of Carolina Herrera, Diane Von Furstenberg and Ralph Lauren.

IMAGE 2: Create smoky eyes with a golden-bronze. Vera Wang, Versace, and Marc by Marc Jacobs all presented this look in their spring collections. Find an eye shadow that complements your client’s skin tone and eye color. Apply to the crease and blend the edges well.

For an added effect, use a pencil brush to line the lower lash with that same bronze color. Pair with a nude, matte lip and a dust of mineral blush to keep the look from appearing overdone.

IMAGE 3: Add a daring matte cherry red or wine-hued lip color with dark blue undertones. Perfect for a nighttime look, wine-colored lips can really complement evening attire, and make your client look polished and sophisticated. First, use a gentle lip exfoliator to get rid of dry, dull skin. Since you’ll be applying a dark color, the next part can get a bit messy. Pat the product on the lips and let it soak in. To avoid bleeding around the edges, use a small brush with a bit

Show your clients how ingredient savvy you are; make them beautiful as

you educate them on the benefits of going organic and natural. n Annie Mayo is a professional makeup artist and the founder/CEO of Advanced Mineral Makeup, a natural mineral makeup line. Mayo has spent more than 25 years honing her skills in all aspects of hair, skin and makeup. Her work in the field of makeup includes more than 25 feature films, countless print ads, the Miss Universe Pageant, television network news stations, and major sporting events such as the Super Bowl and the World Series. For more information on her line, visit www.advancedmineralmakeup.com.

photos courtesy of Annie Mayo

4.

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IMAGENEWS

TELEVISED INTERVIEW Dr. Spalding of Medinail Learning Center was interviewed about nail safety on Anderson Live, Anderson Cooper’s televised talk show on Friday, February 1st. He discussed concerns about the safety of having services in some nail salons. Cooper, along with his fellow hosts and the audience members said they were pleased to know the facts he offered. To see the interview, visit www.andersoncooper. com/2013/02/01/5-questionsto-ask-your-nail-salon/. www.medinails.com 863.273.9134

MAKE IT LAST Perfect Formula has created a new product that doubles the life of a manicure without causing damage or inconvenience with removal. The Manicure Booster formula primes and seals polish, serving as both a base and top coat. This innovative new mani-saver creates a thick protein-rich coating, and seals the polish to prevent chipping with a super strong shield. www.PerfectFormulas.com 877.973.6245

TECH SAVVY TREND BEAUTIFIED BRIDE RapidLash® Eyelash and Eyebrow Enhancing Serum is the perfect tool to help brides prepare for their big day. Retail this product to your bridal clients to help them boost their natural lashes and fix eyebrow/lash blunders to ensure they are picture perfect! www.rapidlash.com 877.760.6677

Give your bridal clients a manicure that will last through their honeymoon with the Gelish® Soak-Off Gel Polish.

It performs like a gel but applies like a polish, and lasts 14-21 days without chipping! Gelish was the first brush-in bottle nail product with LED technology formula, says the company. The gel suspension formula allows for total control and smooth, even application, with no shaking necessary. The six alluring colors in the new Love in Bloom Collection are perfect for a spring wedding! www.gelish.com 714.773.9758

Page 122 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

Prime, moisturize, correct, brighten and perfect your client’s skin with the ultra-lightweight BB Cream from Lady Burd®.

It helps blur skin imperfections by self-adjusting and instantly blending to the user’s skin tone for a radiant, smooth and flawless finish. It is available in light, medium and dark shades for all skin types. www.ladyburd.com 800.345.3448

SWEET SORBETS The sorbet/candy inspired colors that dominate the fashion circuit this spring/summer season can be found in the new ARABESQUE Candy Queen Collection.

The refreshing blend of colors creates two different but equally exquisite looks. The first accents eyes and nails with powdery lilac and violet shades. The second enchants with an interplay of light pastel coral, green and violet. www.arabesque-makeup.com

PEPTIDE PACKED POLISH Be the first nail technician your clients know to carry the groundbreaking peptide-infused, anti-aging lacquer treatment! The ME Core Collection from Dermelect Cosmeceuticals® helps women grow out long, strong, natural nails without compromising fashionable fingertips. The formulas contain ProSina, a pure protein extract derived from New Zealand sheep’s wool that strengthens the nails and nourishes the skin. The ME Core Collection is available in 12 colors. www.dermelect.com 888.693.3763

April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

IMAGENEWS

PERFECT BLEND

MAKEUP, TOOLS AND TRENDS

LUSCIOUS LASHES Lash Longer Fuller Lusher from HydroPeptide® is the perfect way to intensify any bride’s beauty for her big day. The drug-free formula was the first product without prostaglandin, and pioneered the power of stem cell and growth factor technology to nourish and revive lashes and brows, says the company. www.hydropeptide.com 800.932.9873 www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 123

WEST | CENTRAL | EAST

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

West APRIL (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment

by A Natural Difference.

Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150.

Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes

by Laura L. Root.

Webinars held every Monday and Friday.

866.358.1694 Ext. 4.

Distance learning available.

Full-Spectrum Reiki for Beauty Professionals: Integrated Reiki Spa Treatments

by Linda Bertaut at Bertaut Beauty.

Pasadena and San Francisco, CA. 626.405.0424.

HydroPeptide Product Training Seminar

by HydroPeptide.

Webinars held Mondays at 10 a.m. PST. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars.

Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150.

APRIL 7 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.

Newport Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 8 Education Live

by Bio-Therapeutic.

Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Newport Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150.

APRIL 14 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.

Fresno, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Page 124 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

West Central East International

APRIL 15

APRIL 18

APRIL 28

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Newport Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Bio-Synthesis Continuing Education

by Bio-Therapeutic.

Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin. Salt Lake City, UT. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Bt-GEAR, Mobile Services Webinar

by Bio-Therapeutic.

Seattle, WA. 11 a.m. P.S.T. 800.976.2544.

APRIL 19

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Bio-Oxygen Continuing Education

by Bio-Therapeutic.

Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

APRIL 29

APRIL 21 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Fresno, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 16 Bio-Ultimate Platinum

by Bio-Therapeutic.

Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

APRIL 17 Bio-Brasion Trinity Continuing Education

by Bio-Therapeutic.

Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 22 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Salt Lake City, UT. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MAY 5 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 125

calendar|west|central

CALENDAR OF EVENTS MAY 5-6

MAY 21

APRIL 7

Advanced Skin Histology, Analysis and Treatments

by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.

Bio-Ultimate Platinum Continuing Education

by Bio-Therapeutic.

Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.

Milwaukee, WI. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MAY 6

MAY 22

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Bio-Brasion Trinity Continuing Education

by Bio-Therapeutic.

Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

MAY 13 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Las Vegas, NV. 877.PCA.SKIN. Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MAY 19 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Age Specified Services (Online Webinar)

by Bio-Therapeutic.

Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Milwaukee, WI. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MAY 23 Bio-Synthesis Continuing Education

by Bio-Therapeutic.

Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.

Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MAY 24

APRIL 10

Bio-Oxygen Continuing Education

by Bio-Therapeutic.

Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

HydroPeptide Product Training

by HydroPeptide.

Chicago, IL. 800.932.9873. Ext. 116

Central APRIL (ONGOING)

MAY 20

APRIL 8

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Dallas, TX. 888.568.3150.

HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar

by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 12 p.m. C.S.T. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars.E

APRIL 14 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.

Kansas City, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Page 126 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

calendar|central|east

APRIL 15

MAY 13

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Kansas City, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 21

MAY 20

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin. Minneapolis, MN. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 22 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Minneapolis, MN. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 29 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Milwaukee, WI. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MAY 5-6 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa

by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines. Arlington, TX. 800.471.0229.

MAY 7 HydroPeptide Product Training

by HydroPeptide. Dallas, TX. 800.932.9873. Ext. 116 April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

East

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150.

Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes

by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday.

866.358.1694 Ext. 4.

HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar

by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars.

APRIL (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels With Skin Assessment

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150.

Knowledge is Power Series

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Cooper City, FL. 888.568.3150.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150. continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 127

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives

by A Natural Difference Skincare.

Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150.

APRIL 21

MAY 5

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.

Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 7

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin. Grand Rapids, MI. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.

New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 22 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Grand Rapids, MI. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.

Washington, DC. 877.PCA.SKIN.

The Non-Surgical Face LiftRepêchage® Vita Cura® 5 Phase Firming Facial (1-Day Academy)

by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.

Indianapolis, IN. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 28

MAY 6

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin. Miami, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 29

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.

Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 7-8 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa

by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines.

Miami Beach, FL. 800.471.0229.

APRIL 8

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Miami, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

APRIL 9 HydroPeptide Product Training

by HydroPeptide.

Miami, FL. 800.932.9873. Ext. 116

MAY 1 HydroPeptide Product Training

by HydroPeptide. Miami, FL. 800.932.9873. Ext. 116

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Washington, DC. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Page 128 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • April 2013

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Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Indianapolis, IN. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.

Newark, NJ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MAY 6-8 3-Day Academy: Master Class With Lydia Sarfati Become an Esthetic Super Star! Skin Science From the Lab, Facial Massage & Anti-Aging Treatments

by Repêchage.

Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.

MAY 13 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

MAY 20 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Introducing the First Facial for the Hair & Scalp - Repêchage® Hydra-Amino 18® Hair Spa

by Repêchage.

Secaucus, NJ. 1:00-2:30 p.m., E.S.T. 800.248.SKIN.

MAY 19

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Boston, MA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Nashville, TN. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin.

Boston, MA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course

by PCA Skin.

Newark, NJ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar

by PCA Skin. Nashville, TN. 877.PCA.SKIN. April 2013 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

National Esthetic Teacher Training Sponsored by NCEA

Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) April 6, 2013 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229 Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) May 4, 2013 • Dallas, TX 1.800.471.0229 Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) September 28, 2013 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 Pre-Congress National Esthetic Teacher Training (NETT) October 26, 2013 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229

TRADE SHOWS Sponsored by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2013 April 7-8 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2013 May 5-6 • Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2013 September 29-30 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2013 October 27-28 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229

www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 129

advertisers’ index Page Number

Reader Service No.

5................. A Natural Difference................................................. www.anaturaldifference.com.......................................... 232 59............... AC Distribution/Domina........................................... www.dominaskincare.com.............................................. 177 32............... Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts.......................... www.arcskincare.com..................................................... 120 78............... Allied Health Association........................................ www.alliedhealth.net...................................................... 209 83............... Athena Beauty Inc................................................... www.athenabeauty.com................................................. 162 75............... Beautiful Image....................................................... www.beautifulimagellc.com........................................... 183 65............... Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com..................................... 180 55............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... www.biojouvance.com................................................... 140 61,88.......... Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... www.bio-therapeutic.com.............................................. 139 45............... BioBliss.................................................................... www.biobliss.com.......................................................... 173 119............. Biomani................................................................... www.biomaniskincare.com............................................. 276 29............... Bioslimming............................................................ www.bioslimming.com................................................... 335 102............. Brushes by Karen.................................................... www.brushesbykaren.com.............................................. 104 21............... Christina.................................................................. https://shop.christina-usa.com....................................... .107 23............... Circadia by Dr. Pugliese.......................................... www.circadia.com.......................................................... 101 37............... Control Corrective Skincare Systems...................... www.controlcorrective.com............................................ 272 89............... Cosmétiques France Laure..................................... www.francelaure.com..................................................... .199 132............. Darphin................................................................... www.darphin.com.......................................................... .159 118............. Dermafile................................................................ www.dermafile.com....................................................... 296 51............... Dr. Grandel.............................................................. www.grandel-usa.com.................................................... 109 91............... Dr. Jeff..................................................................... www.dr-jeff.com............................................................. .248 6,8.............. Dr. Med. Christine Schrammek............................... www.greenpeelusa.com................................................. .166 31............... Edge Systems........................................................... www.HydraFacial.com.................................................... 201 2-3...............Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. www.eminenceorganics.com............................................ 157 84................Enspri...................................................................... www.enspriskincare.com.................................................. 318 131............. Equipro................................................................... www.equipro-bty.com...................................................... 242 71............... Esthetic Solutions...................................................... www.mywishpro.com..................................................... 339 53............... Grandelash-MD....................................................... www.grandelashmd.com................................................. 286 33............... Hairmax.................................................................... www.hairmaxsalons.com................................................ 285 104............. Hale Cosmeceuticals................................................. www.halecosmeceuticals.com........................................ 133 99............... Hydropeptide.......................................................... www.hydropeptide.com................................................... 278 79............... Image Skincare........................................................ www.imageskincare.com.................................................. 178 13............... Lady Burd......................................................................www.ladyburd.com........................................................ 119 39............... Le Mieux.......................................................................www.lemieuxcosmetics.com.......................................... 294 85............... Lôngmi Lashes ............................................................www.longmilashes.com.................................................. 322 41............... Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research....................www.lucrece.com........................................................... .263 116............. Marinello Schools of Beauty.......................................www.marinello.com........................................................ .340 19............... Meg 21/Dynamis..........................................................www.meg21.com........................................................... 344 67............... Osmosis................................................................... www.osmosisskincare.com............................................. 111 96............... Palacia Beauy............................................................ www.palaciabeautydevice.com...................................... 225 7................. PCA Skin.......................................................................www.pcaskin.com........................................................... 110 43............... PFB Vanish....................................................................www.pfbvanish.com....................................................... 229 9................. Phytocéane...................................................................www.phytoceaneusa.com.............................................. 176 49............... Poo-Pourri.....................................................................www.poopourri.com....................................................... 219 108............. Premiere Shows............................................................www.premieredayspa.biz............................................... 194 57............... Rapidlash......................................................................www.rapidlash.com........................................................ 224 73............... Rejuvi Laboratory...........................................................www.rejuvilab.com......................................................... 149 98............... Saian........................................................................ www.saian.net................................................................ 165 66............... Select Spa Source..........................................................www.selectspa.com........................................................ 253 121............. Sesha Skin Therapy........................................................www.seshaskin.com........................................................ 271 17............... Shira...............................................................................www.shirausa.com.......................................................... 249 11............... Silhouet-Tone.......................................................... www.silhouet-tone.com.................................................. 192 88............... Skin Blends.....................................................................www.skinblends.com...................................................... 283 105............. Szep Élet/ilike.................................................................www.szepelet.com......................................................... 274 20............... Tecniche.........................................................................www.tecniche.com......................................................... 153 116............. Teka Fine Line Brushes, Inc............................................www.tekabrushonline.com............................................. 195 81............... Vitelle...................................................................... www.vitellelab.com........................................................ 206 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. 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Please visit us at The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa, Miami Beach, FL at booths 901, 903, 905, 1000, 1002 and 1004 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242

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