The F.A.T. Manual
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The Googlher This seemed to do the trick for me. If your chip stops working reliably for you, my advice is to keep adding more filter caps until it does (very scienterific like). Also, the power and audio are wired directly to the USB dongle. For the sake of keeping troubleshooting easy, I don’t wire these in until later. The audio jack is left wired in for as long as possible. I am powering the board at this point with alligator clip connector wires. I have also added a 1N4001 diode to the 3/32” (2.5mm) jack to minimize the effects of voltage spikes from the motor. Lastly, make sure you solder everything to the circuit boards with as low of a profile as possible. For everything else, just look at the schematic. It is relatively straight-forward.
7. Open up your USB dongle. Attach a red and black wire to the USB jack. Remove any buttons from the casing that may interfere with normal operation. Break the case in such a way that the audio output jack is exposed and you can pass the power wires through. Once the modifications are made, close the case back up. 8. Program the Arduino with the following code: <http://fffff.at/googlher/The_Googlher_Arduino.zip The code is basically built on top of Carlyn Maw’s shiftin code, with a whole bunch of case statements added on top. It is not the most elegant of Arduino programs, but it gets the job done. When the Arduino is programmed, transfer the ATMEGA168 to the socket on the circuit board. 9. Wire the power from the USB dongle to the circuit board as close to the 47uF filter capacitor as possible. 10. Laser cut the following file out of 1/8″ acrylic: <http://fffff.at/googlher/TGCaseBracket.eps> This is the mounting bracket. Any old acrylic is fine. I cut mine out of scrap acrylic with a botched etching of the Ministry of Funny Walks on the back.