Range Vol. 1 Issue 2 2015

VOL. 1 ISSUE 2 / 2015

Cultural EXCHANGE

A South American family builds a retreat in Jackson Hole

RangeJH.com

ARTISAN

WHAT INSPIRES ME

DESIGN

Stitch Upholstery

Tom Ward

Wheelhaus

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HOMES INSPIRED BY

MORE THAN 70 ACRES ON THE SNAKE RIVER These two developable 35 acre parcels offer river frontage, spring creeks and big mountain views in every direction. The perfect retreat close to the town of Jackson, just across the Snake River from Grand Teton National Park. $16,000,000. MLS #15-1417.

living.

CONSIDER THESE OPPORTUNITIES...

AMAN VILLA This villa is tucked into the hillside overlooking the valley with Tetons rising as a stunning backdrop. Offering privacy, warmth and modern design, there is 11,000 square feet of living space and 5,000 square feet of terraces, patios and courtyards. $11,200,000. MLS #14-2391.

TETON VIEWS IN INDIAN SPRINGS

SLOPESIDE IN TETON VILLAGE

Build your Jackson dream home on this idyllic 12 acre lot with Teton Mountain views and a seasonal stream. $2,950,000. MLS #15-1491.

This one acre Granite Ridge building site is the last remaining opportunity of its kind. $4,750,000. MLS #15-1381.

SPACKMANS & ASSOCIATES YOUR GUIDES TO THE JACKSON HOLE LIFESTYLE To view more information on our listings, please visit WWW.SPACKMANSINJH.COM (307) 739-8156 | SPACKMANS@JHSIR.COM

BABBS, BRANDON, DAVE, STEPHANIE, LIZ

TABLE OF CONTENTS features

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JUST SO

An architect and his partner have wildly different styles. Their compromises create a home as unique as they are.

By Joohee Muromcew

50 —

CULTURAL EXCHANGE

A South American family builds a retreat in Jackson Hole.

By Elizabeth Clair Flood

THE TREASURE CHEST

With a to-the-bones remodel, a young couple reveal the charm of a formerly dilapidated, historic downtown bungalow.

By Lila Edythe

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Photograph by Taylor Glenn

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Property Offerings N O R T H

Split C Ranch

O F

T O W N

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L LY W Y O M I N G

Rustic seclusion, nature immersion, rugged self-reliance: Wyoming’s defining characteristics ring true at Split-C-Ranch. Inspired by historic homesteads, this new 6,000 sq.ft. lodge and 1,000 sq.ft. guesthouse sits on 10 wild acres within a pristine migration corridor along the Snake River. Blending Old West style with New West amenities, the lodge achieves spacious intimacy and a “cabin in the woods” feel. $11,830,000 | splitcranch.com

NEW CONSTRUCTION in Owl Creek

FISHING AND HORSE PROPERTY in Pacific Creek

This newly constructed home in Owl Creek was designed by Larry Berlin and exquisitely furnished by Willow Creek Home Furnishings. This turn-key property features a comfortable 2,600 square foot layout with three en-suite bedrooms, large living and kitchen area with fireplace and half-bath, nice sized entry area, laundry room, and much more. Beautifully finished throughout including marble baths, antique oak hardwood floors and stainless steel Thermador appliances. Owners of Owl Creek have private access to the Snake River. Enjoy the rustic elegance of this new home, nestled on four private acres amongst old growth evergreen and cottonwood trees. $2,600,000

A rare opportunity to own an in-holding in Grand Teton National Park with a Grand Teton view. The home is adjacent to National Forest, with fishing in Pacific Creek just a few minutes’ walk away.

This 4.91 acre horse property with a charming, bright home with large windows gives you access to unlimited hiking and horseback riding, skiing, snowmobiling, and all the amenities of the National Park. Wildlife is abundant and the privacy and serenity are unparalleled. There is a small barn and paddock on the property. An adjacent 4.15 acre parcel, also bordering national forest, is available. $1,200,000

Ryan Block, Associate Broker ryanblock@me.com | 307.690.8674 110 E Broadway, Jackson WY 83001

TABLE OF CONTENTS departments

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10 / WHAT INSPIRES ME

Tom Ward, architect and co-founder of Ward + Blake

24 / ARTISAN: SEW WHAT?

Stitch elevates upholstery to art.

12 / FAVORITES

What we want this season

28 / ARCHITECTURE: THE BUTTERFLY HOUSE

The roofline defines a new house on May Park.

16 / MUST HAVE: COFFEE TABLE BOOKS

Local architects, designers, gallerists, curators, and

style-setters give us their recommendations.

32 / ON THE MARKET

Properties currently for sale, from $500K to $10+ million 34 / SHOPPING TRIP: TUCSON

Enjoy sun, saguaros, and eclectic style and architecture

in Arizona

18 / THEN AND NOW: JACKSON EVOLVING

Today, Jackson is planned and zoned and thinking about

future growth, but that wasn’t always the case.

40 / DESIGN: SMALL LUXURIES

With its pint-size luxury modular homes, Wheelhaus

proves that you can live large in small spaces.

22 / TEN TIPS: LIGHT BRIGHT

The obvious things—oven, stove, dining table—aren’t

what can make or break your kitchen.

64 / HOME SWEET HOME

Living in Jackson Hole is special.

ON THE COVER Photograph by David Agnello RANGE ISSUE TWO 4

Photography (clockwise from upper left) alicetacheny.com; Wheelhaus; courtesy Tom Ward; Colleen Valenstein

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Photographer : Audrey Hall, David Swift

jackson,wy

scottsdale,az

clbarchitects.com

Inspired by Place

Carney Logan Burke designed Dina’s home; she added the climbing wall on its north face.

I LOVE THE VIEWS of the Tetons that I have from my kitchen window. I love my decks that look out at Snow King and Crystal Butte. I love that a doe and two fawns often wander through my yard of native grass, stopping to sniff and/ or nibble the poppies and lavender bushes. Still, I couldn’t help but get jealous while listening to filmmaker Charlie Craighead talk about the bison that, in summer and fall, live in his yard on Antelope Flats (“Home Sweet Home,” p. 64).

(In the middle of our interview he had to take a few seconds to shoo some of the giant beasts away.) Come winter, the bison are gone, but life at Craighead’s house remains adventurous: the road to his home is not plowed.

Living in Jackson Hole is unlike living anywhere else. Yes, Craighead’s situation—his house is on an inholding in Grand Teton National Park—might be extreme, but all valley residents enjoy views and wildlife of some sort or another.

Of course, these are a large part of what makes Jackson Hole so unique as a home. But it’s also the architecture, spirit, design, and energy that makes living here special.

Writer Elizabeth Clair Flood chatted with a South American family who fell in love with everything about Jackson Hole the first time they came here to ski (“Cultural Exchange,” p.

50). They eventually hired architect Stephen Dynia to design a ski-in/ski-out home for them in Teton Village that accommodates not only their nuclear family, but, because they wanted to share the valley, also extended family.

Since young couple Kristin and Tom Fay’s families are already in the area—they both grew up here—the 1,200-square-foot East Jackson house they bought last fall was the perfect size.

Built in the 1920s and used as a rundown rental property for the last several decades, little else about it was perfect, though. Read about their top-to-bottom remodel—Kristin is an interior designer at Trauner Fay Designs—in “The Treasure Chest,” p. 58.

It’s also the people who call this valley home that make it special. Inspired by the area’s geology (and also perhaps by a couple of pints at the Snake River Brewpub), architect Tom Ward (“What Inspires Me,” p. 10) got the idea to RANGE ISSUE TWO 6

build homes with post-tension rammed earth.

Working with the University of Wyoming, he developed a process and today has a patent for “Earthwall”—Ward himself lives in an Earthwall home south of town. We asked a handful of area designers and architects about books they can’t live without (“Must Have,” p. 16) and also about what to consider when designing a lighting plan (“Ten Tips,” p. 22).

As always, every home written about, every product mentioned, and every personality we interviewed for this issue are included for one major reason: they’re awesome. I hope you think this issue is as awesome as I think the Fat Knit hammock included in “Favorites,” p. 12, is.

– Dina Mishev @dinamishev

Photograph by Audrey Hall

A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR

1 1 1 0 M A P L E W AY J A C K S O N , W Y

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3 0 7. 7 3 3 .9 9 5 5

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H O Y T C TA . H O U Z Z . C O M

CONTRIBUTORS

A freelancer based in Steamboat Springs, Colorado, KELLY BASTONE writes for Sunset, Backpacker, AFAR, outsideonline.com, SELF, Runner’s World, and others. She lives in a tiny house more by necessity than by choice, but sees it as no hardship, preferring to live by the words of Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard, who said, “A simple life doesn’t need to be an impoverished life.” Her story on tiny mobile houses made by Jackson-based Wheelhaus appears on page 40.

Arizona-based NORA BURBA TRULSSON (“Shopping Trip,” p. 34) writes about design, sustainability, travel, food, and lifestyle for magazines such as Sunset, Arizona Highways, Houzz.com, Tucson Home Magazine, Vegas Seven, Architecture Las Vegas, U.S. Airways Magazine, and United Airlines Hemispheres. She is the co-author of Living Homes: Sustainable Architecture and Design.

page 58

PUBLISHER Kevin Olson EDITOR Dina Mishev ART DIRECTOR Colleen Valenstein COPY EDITOR Pamela Periconi

Kelly Bastone

Julie Kling

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Lila Edythe Elizabeth Clair Flood Joohee Muromcew Maggie Theodora Nora Burba Trulsson

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS David Agnello Camrin Dengel Taylor Glenn Jeffrey Kaphan ADVERTISING SALES Sara Adams - sara@tetonmediaworks.com Jeannette Boner - jet@tetonmediaworks.com Amy Golightly - amy@tetonmediaworks.com

Lydia Redzich

Kyra Griffin

AD DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Andy Edwards Sarah Grengg DISTRIBUTION Pat Brodnik Jeff Young

Hank Smith

Range magazine is published twice yearly.

P.O. Box 7445, Jackson, WY 83002 (307) 732-5900 / RangeJH.com © 2015 Teton Media Works. All rights reserved. Reproduction of this magazine’s original contents, whether in whole or part, requires written permission from the publisher.

RANGE ISSUE TWO 8

Photograph lower left by David Agnello

JULIE KLING (“Then & Now,” p. 18) is a freelance writer and co-editor of Teton Spirit Connection.

She organizes TEDx talks in the valley and formerly covered politics, police corruption, and financial futures for publications in Chicago and New York.

Fine Cowboy, Indian and National Park Antiques

255 North Glenwood PO Box 1006 Jackson, WY 83001 p. 307.739.1940 e. info@cayusewa.com www.cayusewa.com

WHAT INSPIRES ME The Parker 75 is cooler than a Montblanc pen. It has got this ninety-degree cross hatch. It’s so tactile; it is like worry beads.

I carry three things into every interview, and this is one of them.

It is like a security blanket.

Etceterini cars have motors the size of sewing machines and aren’t mechanical wonders, but they are pure passion. They have their roots in post-World War II Italy, when that country was struggling to rebuild. Italians are passionate about cars, and the first car to really be put back into production after the war was the Fiat Topolino.

You could take it apart and build your own car around the mechanics. That’s an Etceterini car. Only a tiny handful were ever made—by the end of the 1960s no one was making them anymore—but collectors are starting to take notice. There’s someone in town with one. You speak about these like art, not an automobile. The passion that went into designing and building each is obvious.

The very first architect I worked for had a grouping of Eames chairs in his office. There are a lot of ways to analyze furniture— function, durability—and the Eames stuff is unparalleled.

If you place this chair in a rustic environment, it has enough guts to stand up to it. It even works in a rammed earth home.

TOM WARD Architect and co-founder of Ward + Blake

By Dina Mishev ∙ Portrait by David Agnello

Carlo Scarpa, a contemporary of Frank Lloyd Wright, was a genius. He had a sensitivity for material and tradition the likes of which, once I had seen his work, I was an instant fan. It is so sophisticated and subtle and respectful; a mix of contemporary and classic. It just gets all of my gears whirring. (Ed. Note: most of Scarpa’s work is found in Venice and Treviso, Italy.)

TOM WARD’S FIRST TRIPS to Jackson Hole were as a child. “My dad was a geologist; his idea of a great family weekend was to pack us up in the camper and come over here to look at rocks, erosion, and that giant geological anomaly that is the caldera,” Ward says. Those family adventures are still fresh in Ward’s mind today and partially inform his work. He and wife Katherine Reedy (an interior designer at ek Reedy Interiors) built a 1,900-square-foot home from rammed earth using a process—called “Earthwall”— Ward patented in 2004. As far as Ward knows his is the first post-tension rammed earth house in the world.

“Developing the process was hard. Harder still was convincing my wife to live in a house made out of dirt,” Ward says. “Hardest of all was convincing a bank to give us a mortgage on a house made out of dirt.” But it’s not just the geology of a landscape that inspires Ward, as evidenced by the items on this page.

RANGE ISSUE TWO 10

Allen Edmonds’ Hillcrest Oxfords (not pictured) are cool. They’re made by an American company, and the design has been around for a bazillion years.

I’ve had one pair of mine rebuilt three times. There’s something about buying something of quality in a throwaway society that is kind of neat. I don’t wear these around Jackson all that much, but when I’m elsewhere, I wear them all the time. I bought a pair of tan ones and didn’t break them in at all before I wore them walking around Italy. They never gave me a blister or made my feet hurt.

I have a penchant for glass and a minor collection. I love work by local glass artist Laurie Thal. The colors are intense, and her craftsmanship is impeccable.

Photography (clockwise from top left): David Agnello; shutterstock.com; Herman Miller, Inc.; David Agnello; © Carlo Scarpa; courtesy Tom Ward

Moran Bay in Jackson Lake at sunrise. To the east, Sleeping Indian is backlit by the sun. To the west, Mount Moran is speckled by the light of the sunrise. The same location after a late-afternoon thundershower—preferably with a double rainbow—is also inspiring. No, I do not own a boat; I do rent those nasty ones at Signal Mountain Lodge.

8 0 W. B R O A D WAY, S U I T E 1 0 4

307.733.8582

DESIGNEDINTERIORSJH.COM — DWELLINGJH.COM A BOUTIQUE FURNITURE, GIFT & DESIGN STORE

Doors open on Glenwood directly across from Trio Restaurant

FAVORITES

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1 / BREATHE DEEP

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Removing 99.97 percent of harmful airborne pollutants could be enough for one air purifier to do. But the sleek and quiet Blueair Sense overachieves.

It comes in six colors, and the Swedish design firm Claesson Koivisto Rune made sure its aesthetics match its efficiency. $479, us.blueair.com

2 / SLEEP IN A SCULPTURE

Tell us Bless’ Fat Knit Hammock isn’t the coolest hammock you’ve ever seen, or that you’ve ever before used the words “gorgeous,” “sculptural,” or “art” when talking about a hammock. We’ll tell you that we had one of the best naps of our life in the Fat Knit, which is made in Bless’ Berlin studio.

From $3,500ish, shop@blessberlin.com

3 / GET COZY

Who doesn’t love a throw that is supersoft, affordable, and looks (and feels) like it cost ten times as much as it does? But who’s been able to find such a thing? Kate Binger, a designer and owner of Dwelling, has: she stocks a 100

percent Italian cotton blanket in a range of colors, including hard-to-find hues. $128, 80 W. Broadway, Ste. 104, 307/733-8582, dwellingjh.com

4 / STEP ON IT

Just because you don’t want a full runner for your stairs doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice quality and style. Liza Phillips Design’s Alto Steps are handmade from wool and/or silk in Nepal. Each covers one step and only one step, softening noise and allowing risers to shine. Designs include solids and patterns. Many of the latter, when used as a set, flow together to form a larger pattern. Single steps from $93, sets of 12 from $1,000; lizaphillipsdesign.com

5 / A WOODY TO DISPLAY

Twenty Two Home discovered Southeast Asian artists that repurpose fallen trees to create one-of-a-kind charred burled bowls. The bowls’ curves come from the natural curves of each piece of wood. $495, 45 E. Deloney, 307/7339922, twentytwohome.com

RANGE ISSUE TWO 12

Photography: 1. Blueair Sense; 2. Bless; 3. Jeffrey Kaphan; 4. Alto Steps; 5. Jeffrey Kaphan

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1

Stay connected from anywhere Xssentials designs custom home automation solutions to integrate seamlessly into your life.

Simple. Reliable. Fun.

160 W Deloney Ave, Suite B Jackson, WY 83001 307.201.7040 www.xssentials.com

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FAVORITES

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6 / SNUGGLE IN

If you’re sleeping under Scandia’s Salzburg comforter, which melds 720-fillpower Polish white goose down with a 400-thread-count German sateen shell, you’ll be forgiven for sleeping in on a powder day. From $795, 165 N. Center St., 307/733-1038, scandiadownjh.com

7 / MAGIC CARPET

This hand-loomed wool area rug, available in 2x3 feet or 3x5 feet, at Willow Creek was designed for Jackson Hole homes. Literally. The scene on it is of skiers at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. From $599, 115 E. Broadway, 307/733-7868, willowcreekhf.com

8 / ALL CAUGHT UP

Meet Alice Tacheny’s beautifully utilitarian Tasche leather wall pocket and Teddy wall hook. The former was inspired by scraps of leather lying

around her studio, memories of her father as a mailman in the 1970s, and her need for a new mailbox. Teddy came from Tacheny’s desire to create a wall hook out of one or two simple shapes or elements. Teddy, $34, Tasche, $120; alicetacheny.com

9 / WRAP-UP

Available in every neutral color you can imagine, oversize cashmere scarves at Davies-Reid are handspun from hand-loomed cashmere that is colored with vegetable dyes. From $325, 15 E. Deloney Ave., 307/739-1009, daviesreid.com

10 / SUBWAY, ELEVATED

Modwalls’ LUSH glass subway tiles come in eye-catching colors like peacock, butter, and lemongrass, and they’ve recently developed an online tool that allows you to design glass tile blends with your own custom colors.

From $19.95/square foot, modwalls.com

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Photography: 6. Scandia Down; 7. alicetacheny.com; 8, 9. Jeffrey Kaphan; 10. David Agnello

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Missing Sock Laundromat

2004

2005

810 West • First Public Private Housing Development in Jackson • 14 Market, 22 Deed-Restricted

Single Family Home on Redmond

2006 2007

710 Split Commercial Space • 7 Offices

Toast Commercial Space

Margaret Jaster Homes • 6 Market, 1 Deed-Restricted

2008

4 Homes on Hall Street

2009 20 1 2

20 1 3

Daisy Bush Development • 8 Duplexes, 8 Single Family, 1 Fourplex

Pine Box • 7 Live/Work Lofts

2 Farmhouse Modern Homes in Gill Addition

370 King AR Zoned Triplex

20 1 4

455 Broadway Live/Work Home Single Family Home in Gill Addition Rodeo Grounds Home

We create opportunities for people to

Live & Work in

jackson hole

20 1 5 20 1 6

Duplex on Hansen Street

12 New Rentals on Kelly & Millward

Greg Prugh

BRokeR

g@prugh.com

307.733.9888 307.413.2468 1110 Maple Way suite c

Po Box 3274

jackson, WY 83001

prugh.com

MUST HAVE

COFFEE TABLE BOOKS Who doesn’t love a beautiful coffee table book? All the better when that book is inspiring as well as beautiful. We asked area architects, designers, gallerists, curators, and style-setters about the architecture, art, or design book they couldn’t live without. And, of course, we asked them why. - The Editors

Art as Therapy BY ALAIN DE BOTTON AND JOHN ARMSTRONG “I have a copy in all of my homes,” says interior designer Agnes Bourne about this book. “It provides inspiration and focus. Each page or segment brings me back to my own center of comfort and well-being. Art has always been a grounding for me both in practice and in appreciation. It is an experience gently linked to design. One cannot be without the other.” $39.95, Phaidon Press

Case Study Houses: The Complete CSH Program 1945-1966 BY TASCHEN Detailing thirty homes built in California between 1945 and 1966 for the Case Study House program, this book wouldn’t seem relevant in twenty-first-century Wyoming. But it is, says architect Douglas Halsey: “The Case Study Homes represent construction efforts in postwar California that address: 1) A high demand for housing; 2) Lower costs for single-family homes; 3) Integration of a built environment into a dramatic, natural one, and; 4) A gracious and elegant lifestyle for all. This sounds a lot like contemporary Jackson Hole to me.” Expect to see work by Charles Eames, Richard Neutra, Whitney R. Smith, Pierre Koenig, and Eero Saarinen, among others. $69.99, Taschen

Axel Vervoordt: Timeless Interiors

BY ARMELLE BARON “This book features residences in Europe and the United States,” says Allison Merritt, the owner of the annual Western Design Conference. “The interiors are a collaborative effort of the entire Vervoordt family, and each home, regardless of the scale, style, or age, has an authentic respect for the original architecture.

These interiors come to life, exuding an energy and spirit of their own.” $75, Flammarion

Park and Recreation Structures BY ALBERT GOOD “This three-volume book gives sketches, detailed drawings, and text about everything from signs to lodges,” says Terry Winchell, the founder and coowner of Fighting Bear Antiques. Published in 1938 and reprinted in 1999, “Good’s book shows the legacy of the WPA movement and simpler times,” Winchell says. Reprints from $85, Princeton Architectural Press (1999 reprint), United States Department of the Interior National Park Service (1938 edition)

Commune BY COMMUNE DESIGN “I want to copy everything Commune does,” says Ali Cohane, the co-owner of Persephone Bakery & Cafe.

“Their style is an amazing amalgamation of influences, highlighting craftsmanship and texture, which really reflects the natural environment around us here in Jackson.” Look for Commune-designed tile in the new West Jackson Persephone location. Cohane, who did much of the work designing the aesthetic at the new cafe herself, says, “I believe a restaurant experience is at least 50 percent ambiance, so creating the right aesthetic is a matter of success to me. And frankly, it’s a way to curb my personal shopping habits!” (Ed note: Commune is designing a new building in Teton Village that is slated to be finished in 2016.) $60, Abrams RANGE ISSUE TWO 16

House BY DIANE KEATON “This book highlights the richness of vernacular building types like barns, silos, and farmhouses,” says Jen Mei, an architect and interior designer at Carney Logan Burke. “It’s about the abstraction of form and the craft of building where the materials are familiar and grounding elements. It’s about the everyday sublime, which is something we experience daily in Jackson in the incredible landscape around us. Also, this book is graphically strong, beautifully composed, and artful.” $85, Rizzoli

Local Architecture: Building Place, Craft, and Community BY BRIAN MACKAY-LYONS “This book is relevant to homes and style anywhere,” says architect Brad Hoyt of CTA Architects. “It champions an architecture that is of and for its specific place. MacKay-Lyons’ work grows from a modernist aesthetic and a similarly harsh environment.” $50, Princeton Architectural Press

Color: Natural Palettes for Painted Rooms

BY DONALD KAUFMAN AND TAFFY DAHL “In the same way we experience color outdoors, we are deeply affected by the colors we choose in our homes,” says interior designer Shannon White Burns. “Selecting color can be daunting. Kaufman’s book helps by not only providing specific natural color palettes, but also by explaining how to use the landscape to derive color choices.

Kaufman has inspired me to use color as a tool, and I often use this book to start a dialogue about color with clients.”

From $50, Clarkson Potter

Late Harvest BY JOANNE NORTHRUP “This book is a little self-promotional, but I still love it,” says Adam Harris, the National Museum of Wildlife Art’s curator of art and research. “It features great essays and serves as the catalogue for an exhibit we did with the Nevada Museum of Art that juxtaposed some of our classic wildlife paintings with some of their very modern art [taxidermy and photography] featuring animals.” $45, Hirmer Publishers

The Ten Books on Architecture BY VITRUVIUS “As a modern architect creating new work in the twenty-first century, I have a strong belief in classical understandings of the ancient art of architecture,” says architect Stephen Dynia. Written in the 1st century BC, this book has certainly withstood the test of time. “Though written for all things related to Roman and Greek architecture, the most timeless principles within it still hold today: symmetry, harmony, and proportion—universally applied to every building type, public and private, from theaters to houses,” Dynia says. From $35, BiblioLife 17

Giorgio Morandi 1890-1964: Nothing Is More Abstract Than Reality

BY METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART Tayloe Piggott, founder of Tayloe Piggott Gallery, has long been drawn to Morandi’s art and purchased this book in 2008 after seeing his exhibition at NYC’s Metropolitan Museum. “We are so fortunate in Jackson Hole to be surrounded by immense beauty—in our landscape and in a lot of our architecture. Morandi, however, reminds us to contemplate life on an intimate and quiet scale,” Piggott says. “He teaches the importance of scale and shape, and his core tenets can help us achieve a more complete conversation between art, architecture, and landscape.” $65, Skira

THEN AND NOW John Wilson, a third-generation member of the Wilson family (for which the town of Wilson is named), moved into his home in the second phase of Cottonwood Park in 1988, not far from where his Mormon ancestors settled one hundred years earlier. But he grew up in the 1950s at 280 E. Pearl Avenue, in the Cache Creek addition. The Wilson Motel still stands there today.

In the 1950s, Robert Gill’s dad, Jackson’s late former mayor Ralph Gill, bought four lots on Teton Street for about five hundred dollars each when the first houses were being built in the Gill Addition. He moved out of 215 Willow Street on the corner of Simpson and into a house on Teton Street the day Robert was born. “It was a great neighborhood with lots of kids running around,” Gill says.

Today, Gill lives on the Hereford Ranch, a nine-hundred-acre property in South Park that he inherited from his grandfather, Robert Bruce Porter, and split with his cousin, Elizabeth Lockhart (her ranch is the Lockhart Cattle Company). The Hereford Ranch is just outside the town limits and has long been eyed for housing development. But Gill says there is sentimental value to that land and also to his father’s Gill Addition house, which he still owns.

The town’s population was creeping up to three hundred when Robert Gill’s grandfather arrived from Nebraska in the 1920s, only about a decade after Jackson was incorporated as a town. The original town map was drawn in 1901 by Bill Simpson; Jackson incorporated in 1914. It spanned eleven blocks with twenty 50-by-140-foot parcels per block west of Cache Street. There was no East Jackson yet.

Jackson Hole Historical Society

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South of town, neighborhoods are more spread out and off the beaten path. A drive through Hidden Ranch Loop, which was just developed in 1990, reveals old cabins from a dude ranch built by the Horn family. The now-residential Powderhorn Ranch lodge, part of the original dude ranch, was recently awarded a plaque from the preservation district for being a historical property more than fifty years old.

The northwest antler arch on the Town Square

Snow King Mountain

The Karns Addition was platted in the 1930s and ’40s, a decade when Jackson’s population nearly doubled to 1,046 from 533.

The northwest quadrant where Miller Park is today was expanded east by the Simpson and Robert Miller families, homesteaders who speculated on land and set up early ranches.

The Wilsons were among the Mormon settlers who came over from Idaho in covered wagons, set up ranches along South Park Loop near neighborhoods like Shootin’ Iron Ranch, and established the South Park Cemetery. The old homestead on Wilson Lane and the South Park schoolhouse are still standing.

JACKSON EVOLVING Today, Jackson is planned and zoned and thinking about future growth, but that wasn’t always the case.

By Julie Kling ∙ Photograph by David Agnello

19

THEN AND NOW

WHEN ROBERT GILL was growing up on Teton Street in East some town neighborhoods, and there were no streetlights anywhere.

In 1955, Warner Houfek and his sweetheart, Jeanne Bircher, lived Jackson in the 1960s, there were empty lots all around. “You could go to the grocery store, the drugstore, and the post office all on the on a then-quiet West Kelly Street near the rodeo grounds. Houfek’s north side of the Town Square,” he says over lunch at the Wort Hotel, in-laws owned the land west of Cache Creek to Flat Creek—which which opened in 1941. Only Broadway Avenue and Cache Street today includes pretty much the heart of East Jackson and also part were paved. The rest of the streets—Simpson, Hansen, Redmond, of the National Elk Refuge—and “traded it for land north of Wilson, Pearl, Deloney—were gravel. The high school was where the Center a six-gun, and a suite of store-bought clothes,” he says.

Additions each have a map for the Arts is now. Pointing or plat. But curiously, there out and over his lunch to the is no master homestead or Broadway Shops and the Pink subdivision map anywhere in Garter Theatre, Gill says, “that the town or county records. was an empty lot, and that was Inquisitive, Frank Johnson, a the gas station where I worked. member of the Teton County Everything east of Redmond Historic Preservation Board, was out of town. There was a created a map of his own. junkyard out there.”

“A lot of the history of In 1960, Jackson had 1,437 Jackson is in these names you residents and 606 housing see,” Johnson says. “People units. Thirty-five of these would set up a cabin in town homes were too far out from so the kids could go to school “downtown” (but still in town and maybe have land in South limits) to have plumbing.

Park or Spring Gulch. It was Jackson was up to 10,135 such a hamlet for decades. The residents in 2013. In 2010, the This downtown log cabin came with twenty to thirty acres of land in the early 1900s. streets didn’t get paved until most recent year for which the 1970s, I think.” housing stats are available, “There was still property there were 4,471 units. Some [in town] to be claimed up of them, often the ones skids crowd, do look to be on the verge of falling down, but at least they until the 1920s,” says Sara Adamson, president of the Teton County Historic Preservation Board. “This valley wasn’t prime agricultural have plumbing.

Remembering the old days in the 1950s, a table of residents at land, because we were isolated and the winters were harsh.”

Today, if you can find an empty lot in East Jackson, expect it to MorningStar of Jackson Hole, a senior living facility in the Rafter J subdivision, laughs when they reminisce that electricity didn’t reach cost upwards of $500,000, and that’d be for only about .17 acre.

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Jackson Hole Historical Society

Downtown Jackson in the early 1900s

Trust. Value. Insight. Build On.

1110 Maple Way Jackson, WY 307-733-8401

TEN TIPS

Festive Living’s Lotus Flower Chandelier

Luna table lamp from WRJ Design

LIGHT BRIGHT The obvious things—oven, stove, dining table— aren’t what can make or break your kitchen.

YOUR WOLF RANGE doesn’t mean a thing if you can’t see well enough to prepare the meals you plan on cooking in it.

Beautifully and effectively lighting a kitchen means more than just being able to spot what’s in the fridge. Kitchens tend to be the soul of family life, whether it’s breakfast around a sunny nook or cocktail parties that inevitably migrate there. With openspace floor planning increasingly becoming the standard for relaxed mountain living, kitchen lighting options have become smarter and more livable and, of course, more complex. You’re not just lighting counters and an eating space anymore, but also the spaces—living rooms, dining rooms, bars—that flow into contemporary kitchens.

Simon Pearce candle holders can be found at Belle Cose.

1 / PLAN, PLAN, PLAN If you have the luxury of planning your kitchen from scratch, think carefully about how you truly spend your time. Kitchen islands are a great example. Do you spend more time scrupulously mincing vegetables and herbs, which requires bright task lighting, or, does your island typically become a social space that calls for more flattering light?

2 / BEHIND, BELOW THE SCENES Sometimes the most efficient lighting

can be neatly tucked away. Jackson interior designer Nanette Mattei recommends LED undercounter strips or tapes to light countertops without obtrusive fixtures. “They cast a great light, and last so long so you don’t have to worry about bulbs,” she says.

Sicily floor lamp from Twenty Two Home; Lafco and Nest Fragrances candles at Scandia Down RANGE ISSUE TWO 22

Photography (clockwise from top left): WRJ Design; Festive Living; Belle Cose; Jeffrey Kaphan; Twenty Two Home

By Joohee Muromcew

3 / MULTITASK LIGHTING FOR MULTITASK KITCHENS

Kitchens are not only where we cook and eat, but also often where homework is done, bills are paid, and meetings are held. Think about putting ceiling fixtures above tables on dimmers to accommodate changing tasks at hand.

FALL CREEK LODGE IN WILSON, WYOMING

4 / FLOOR IT Floor lamps not only give off a lot of light, but also can be a beautiful part of kitchen decor. This is especially space-efficient for kitchen remodels where switching the overhead lighting isn’t an option. Twenty Two Home, 45 East Deloney 5 / COOKING BY CANDLELIGHT Even before she sits down for dinner, Mattei loves to light candles while she’s preparing meals: “Don’t forget about the beauty of candles, a light source I find to be welcoming, a great ritual, and a way to slow down and enjoy cooking or entertaining. Don’t take it seriously—votives from IKEA are as nice as any high-end candelabra.” Scandia Down, 165 North Center Street 6 / BUT JUST ONCE TRY A CANDELABRA …

Homey kitchen tables can be transformed into specialoccasion dining spaces with a switch-up in linens, but a dramatic candelabra can bring a heightened sense of romance or formality. Belle Cose, 48 East Broadway

This premier retreat is located 15 minutes from Teton Village and 2 minutes from the town of Wilson, yet feels worlds away. The pristinely landscaped 3 acres offers stone patios, a fire pit, creeks and ponds overlooking Fish Creek Ranch and up to the Sleeping Indian. This home has a tasteful blend of mountain and rustic influences with a contemporary edge. Featuring 6 spacious bedrooms, 5.5 baths, a game room, large media room, private office, a guest apartment and wine cellar this is a must see property for those looking for refined luxury and comfort.

MOUNTAIN MODERN WITH EXCEPTIONAL VIEWS

7 / LOW COMMITMENT, HIGH STYLE Lamps are an easy, affordable, and widely accessible way to change countertop or table decor. Mattei suggests that “a simple lamp on a counter is a favorite unexpected usage in a kitchen. It adds warmth, personality, and is a nice way to light a kitchen without having a ton of light sources going.” WRJ Design, 30 South King Street 8 / NOOKS AND CRANNIES Generously size pantries

and deep cabinets call for low-maintenance, highly reliable lighting. It’s amazing what gets lost in that dark corner of the pantry. Consider motion-detector lights or backlit cabinets.

9 / HOT SPOTS “You don’t want to end up with ‘spotlights’ hitting your counter,” warns Mattei.

Choose ceiling fixtures that spread light evenly over spaces, and keep the brighter task lighting focused to areas like your cooking range and prep areas.

10 / LOOK UP! Try something unexpected with ceiling fixtures. Festive Living’s luminous, cheerful Lotus Flower Chandelier is one way to brighten a room and lighten moods. Festive Living, 13 South Main Street, Victor, Idaho 11 / LET THE SUN SHINE IN There is nothing drearier than a dark kitchen. For a small investment, solar tubes are a highly effective way to bring refreshing, natural light into a dark space. Much evolved from their initial “hole in the ceiling” offerings, solar tubes are now offered with dimmers, switches, and even caps.

Boasting stunning Grand Teton views, unparalleled serenity, and supreme luxury, Skyline 1515 is perched atop Spring Creek Ranch. The beautiful, new construction provides a unique setting for your Jackson Hole retreat, which is scheduled for completion in the winter of 2015.

Visit skyline1515.com to view this listing.

COLLIN VAUGHN (307) 413-1492 collin.vaughn@jhsir.com

JILL SASSI-NEISON (307) 690-4529 jill.sassi@jhsir.com

RANKED #1 IN 2014 FOR NUMBER OF TRANSACTIONS COMPLETED

J AC K S O N H O L E P RO P E RT YS E A R C H . C O M 23

ARTISAN

SEW WHAT?

Stitch elevates upholstery to art.

By Maggie Theodora ∙ Photography by Camrin Dengel IT’S NOT DIFFICULT TO IMAGINE a young Sierra Fulton hoarding little pieces of fabric. Even today, forty-something and with two kids, get Fulton talking about fabric and her eyes widen, her voice rises in pitch, and her hands begin gesticulating to match a quicker cadence of speech.

The founder of Stitch, a custom upholstery studio in West Jackson, Fulton loves fabric. “Feeling and touching them—to me fabrics are truly little works of art,” she says. “You look at a fabric and you notice that someone somewhere across the globe wove it in such a way with their love and their heart and their spirit, RANGE ISSUE TWO 24

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ARTISAN

and we get to use it for a piece that becomes someone else’s love.

Working with fabric the way we do—even if sometimes the fabric is so beautiful it hurts me to cut it—it goes from artisan to artisan.

It’s quite special.”

Stitch isn’t the studio Fulton planned. In 2011, she went to Custom Home Furnishings Academy and Drapery School in her native North Carolina (in college she earned a degree in textiles; after graduating she designed fabrics for April Cornell). Fulton had a wingback chair she wanted to reupholster for herself. If that went well, she planned on doing one-off pieces that were one of a kind and every bit as functional as they were artistic. Returning home to Jackson from the “extremely intense twelve-day upholstery boot camp,” Fulton got to work on her wingback. And then her neighbor, interior designer Laurie Waterhouse, saw it.

Almost before she knew it, Fulton was running a workshop with half a dozen employees. “The demand in Jackson led me in a different direction than I had planned,” she says. Ninety-some percent of Stitch’s work consists of commissions from interior designers.

Even though she’s not doing the work she had originally envisioned, every piece that

comes out of Stitch is a work of art. More people take photos of two Stitch cowhide chairs by the check-in desk at Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole than sit in them.

Fulton is the first to say Stitch involves far more than just her efforts, referring to her team of Sarah Helwig, Daniel Ismaya, Alajandra Ismaya, Shannon Heiner, Catalina Garcia, Iris Stevenson, and Brandon Morgan. “We’re all in it together,” Fulton says. “Clients here are very educated and are used to seeing gorgeous items. Our work has to be meticulously sewn to perfection, and this team does that, and more.”

Stitch goes through hundreds of nailheads a week. Fulton once tried using a machine that installs them using compressed air in lieu of hammering each one by hand. “The machine didn’t last long, though,” Fulton says.

“With it, each nailhead still had to be hand-placed, but those pieces just didn’t have the love and feel of the pieces we did where we hand-nailed every single nailhead. Doing absolutely everything by hand—it has a visual impact that shows love and gives each piece spirit. With all of us working together—that’s the type of craftsmanship we want to share.” 307/690-9129; stitch-upholstery.com

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N AT U R A L R E T R E AT S K N O W S W I N T ER

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ARCHITECTURE

THE BUTTERFLY HOUSE The roofline defines a new house on May Park.

By Elizabeth Clair Flood FROM THE START, the location of the Riddells’ new home—adjacent to May Park in East Jackson, and with nearly 360-degree views that include the Tetons, Cache Creek, and Snow King—informed its design. As did the Riddells’ Houzz account. (Houzz is an online resource of home design photos.) Travis (a pediatrician at St. John’s Medical Center) and Annie’s (a nonprofit consultant) Houzz pages included mostly contemporary images. These images with the potential views started the design conversation.

After interviewing several local architects, the couple chose Brad Hoyt and Adam Janak of CTA Architects Engineers’ Jackson office (the firm’s main offices are in Billings, Montana). CTA’s aesthetic, a blend of

contemporary and traditional, appealed to the Riddells.

“Right away we all seemed to see eye to eye,” Travis says.

“The Riddells wanted a pretty contemporary house,” Hoyt says. “Not a cold office-like building, but one that was warm with contemporary forms and natural materials.”

Its most distinctive feature—a butterfly roof—didn’t come until the end of the design process. “We realized the design allowed for a higher ceiling in the master bedroom, and this seemed to balance the project,” Hoyt says. Years ago a shape like this might have been considered impractical in the Rocky Mountains, but today’s technology and engineering allow the roof to hold snow well and also to easily drain.

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Various roofline designs were explored, and the butterfly roof, which came at the end of the design process, won out.

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ARCHITECTURE

design grew out of organizing the spaces and volumes to the views,” Hoyt says. “There wasn’t a predetermined poetic form. It was more pragmatic.”

Determined to keep the house under three thousand square feet, the couple shrank bedrooms so they could maximize public spaces.

As the design evolved, Annie’s home office inspired the portico. She wanted an office that required walking outside—this would be more private, and the separation would allow her to leave work behind when she returned to her family. A portico allowed for both and also grew to become the home’s main outdoor space. “We wanted to be able to entertain on the south side, but take advantage of the Teton view to the north as well as the shade when we need it,” Travis says.

In an old-fashioned, neighborly way, the portico, on the ground floor and near the street, engages the Riddells with their neighbors. To take advantage of views, many newer homes in East Jackson feature upstairs living spaces.

In doing so, these houses lose connection with the neighborhood, explains Hoyt. “Even if this house wasn’t right on the park, there’s no doubt it’s a part of its neighborhood,” he says.

Travis liked the organic midcentury modern roof style right away. “There are so many box-shaped homes and shed roofs in this area, the butterfly roofline made the house feel uniquely ours,” he says.

While the couple wanted a contemporary home, the process started in a very old-fashioned way: with love letters. For years, Annie and Travis had scoured East Jackson, with an eye toward the eclectic area closest to May Park, for vacant land. A hodgepodge of historic cabins, ski-bum shacks, and, in the last couple of years, contemporary buildings, the area, however, had few empty lots. They wrote “love letters,” as they called them, to neighborhood homeowners, inquiring about available land. Finally, they got a response: an owner of a large lot was willing to subdivide, selling them a double lot running east/west and directly on May Park.

The couple’s design program included a great family room, a mudroom, a playroom, two kids’ rooms (the couple are already parents to toddler Case), a guest room, a master bedroom, a home office, a garage, and outdoor space.

With Google SketchUp, Hoyt and Janak moved the rooms around, orienting the kitchen, living room, and master bedroom toward the Tetons. “The

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Office Living Dining Kitchen Recreation Hall Powder Laundry

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Garage Master Suite Master Bath Guest Suite Hall Kids Bedroom 1 Kids Bedroom 2 Kids Bath

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Stone Works of Jackson Hole

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RANGE ISSUE TWO 32

$10 MILLION+ The basics: Historic 128-acre Lazy Moose Ranch off

Fish Creek Rd. in Wilson Why you want it: Directly on Fish Creek

and has abundant wildlife Can be yours for: $19 million Why it’s worth it: In addition to the 5,600-square-foot main house, there is a modest guest house, a managers house, a 3,000-square-foot entertaining facility, two barns, a large greenhouse, and service buildings. Most of these buildings are historic and were redone to meet modern standards. You can ski out the back door.

Listing Agent: John Hanlon, Sotheby’s International Realty,

307/413-1874

$5 MILLION - $10 MILLION The basics: 5,965-square-foot, four-bedroom Adirondack-style lodge designed by Turner Boaz Architecture on nearly two forested acres in the Crescent H Ranch subdivision on Fall Creek Road Why you want it: Expansive decks and it comes furnished in traditional Jackson Hole style with overstuffed leather sofas and chairs

Quality Construction. Inspired Design. Unparalleled Experience. Exemplary Service.

Can be yours for: $8,495,000 Why it’s worth it: Location, location, location: this part of

Crescent H is so desirable, this home is the first resale in it.

Listing Agent: Matt Faupel, Graham Faupel & Associates,

307/732-7478

UNDER $1 MILLION The basics: 626-square-foot, one-bedroom East Jackson bungalow built in 1952 and completely remodeled in the last year Why you want it: It’s currently the most affordable single-

family home in downtown.

Can be yours for: $529,000 Why it’s worth it: The remodel was done well: vaulted ceilings, lots of light, refinished wood floors, gas fireplace, black granite counters, and new kitchen cabinets. Also, you can add an addition to bring the total square footage up to 1,649 square feet.

Listing Agent: Scott Shepherd, Scott Shepherd Real Estate,

307/733-5881

Design + Build | General Contractor Construction Management | Development NewWestBC.com | 265 W. Broadway, Jackson, WY 83001 | 307.203.2460 33

SHOPPING TRIP

Photograph by Chuck Albanese

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TUCSON

By Nora Burba Trulsson

IT’S VISIONS OF HIKING, mountain biking, trail rides, golf, and poolside lounging that spring to mind when you hear “Tucson.”

Architecture and design don’t. But they should. “Tucson has a nuanced and significant architectural pedigree,” says R. Brooks Jeffery, a University of Arizona architecture professor and historian, and co-author of A Guide to Tucson Architecture. “It’s a layered community that includes the building traditions of indigenous peoples, the Spanish, the Mexicans, and the Anglos.”

All of this is set against a backdrop of snaggly mountains—the Santa Catalinas—and surrounded by desert dense with saguaros in southern Arizona.

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Built in 1785, Mission San Xavier del Bac is a national historic landmark.

35

SHOPPING TRIP The arrival of the railroad in the late 1800s brought new architectural influences to Tucson, and, by the early twentieth century, Jeffery notes, Tucson was swept up in romantic revival styles of architecture best exemplified by the gracious designs of Josias Joesler, the city’s most recognized architect who built many homes and buildings with Spanish and Mexican colonial motifs. Midcentury modernism took root in the city after World War II, with long, low-slung homes and buildings that reached out into the landscape.

“It’s all led to what today some have termed the ‘Arizona school of architecture,’ ” Jeffery says, “in which Tucson architects and firms like Judith Chafee, Rick Joy, Ibarra and Rosano, and Line and Space have become nationally and internationally known for their modernist language that’s adapted to our desert climate.” Architect/ development planner Jim Barlow at Pierson Land Works here in Jackson says that even though Jackson Hole and Tucson are one thousand miles apart, “Western architecture, whether in the Southwest or the Rocky Mountains, has similar properties due to the common element of an arid climate.” Also, Barlow points out that Arizona and Wyoming rank 47 and 48 in annual precipitation: Arizona gets 13.6 inches and Wyoming 12.9 inches.

“This can create a very similar response in design and a vernacular that has some commonalities,” Barlow says. But the yards in Tucson are planted with saguaro rather than aspen.

Mission San Xavier del Bac

About a decade ago, a historic warehouse district turned into Tucson’s go-to place for antique and international furniture and accessories.

Find everything from Talavera pottery to Asian rugs and antique doors from India in the Lost Barrio’s collection of stores.

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Take time to drive the nine or so miles south of downtown to Mission San Xavier del Bac, an iconic Mission church built in 1785 that today is a national historic landmark. Its style is exuberant Spanish baroque, with an interior brimming with frescoes and retablos. Mass is still celebrated on Sundays. 1950 W. San Xavier Rd.; 520/294-2624; sanxaviermission.org See Josias Joesler’s romantic architectural style at Broadway Village (3000-3052 E. Broadway; broadwayvillagetucson.com), which he conceived in 1939 as the city’s first suburban shopping center, designed with fired adobe walls, courtyards, and archways. Today it’s home to restaurants, food shops, and boutiques. In 1936, Joesler designed St. Philip’s in the Hills Episcopal Church (4440 N. Campbell Ave.; 520/299-6421; stphilipstucson.org), now a national historic landmark. This tranquil church welcomes visitors with colonnaded walkways and a contemplative chapel.

Tucson Museum of Art has a plaza ringed with historic, restored houses—now used as galleries and classrooms—dating from the mid1800s to the early twentieth century. $10; 140 N. Main Ave.; 520/624-2333; tucsonmuseumofart.org The Tucson Historic Preservation Foundation does frequent, and varied, architectural tours.

Photography: (top) Bill Steen; (bottom photos) Lee McLaughlin

GET YOUR ARCHITECTURE ON

Past tours have included the nineteenth-century adobes of downtown’s Barrio Viejo neighborhood, a midcentury modern tour, and a tour of Joesler homes. preservetucson.org

Saguaro National Park

BRING IT HOME

Photography (clockwise from top left): shutterstock.com; Jay Pierstorff; Josh Schachter

The Lost Barrio Tucson, a historic warehouse district near downtown, now houses a collection of shops and galleries that specialize in rustic, antique, and Mexican furnishings, and they have friendly agreements not to compete with each other, so each shop carries wares from a different part of the world. Colonial Frontiers consists of thirteen thousand square feet of antique and new furnishings—think pots and statuary to architectural elements—from Spain, Mexico, South America, and India (244 S. Park Ave.; 520/622-7400; colonialfrontiers.com). People’s Imports skews more Asian—tribal rugs, crystal balls, gilded lions, and bronze Buddhas (276 Park Ave.; 520/903-2300; peoplesimports.com). Rustica is crammed with Mexican folk art, punched tin lamps, Talavera pottery, and more (200 S. Park Ave.; 520/623-4435; rusticatucson.com).

Russell Shumate showcases his background in upholstery and cabinetry at Russell’s Retro Furnishings—all the midcentury modern treasures on the floor of his modest storefront are

Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum

Tohono Chul Park

Distinctive Interiors Made Easy 1705 High School Rd. Suite 120, Jackson, WY • 307.200.4195 | 108 W Center #4, Victor, ID • 208.787.7100 www.tetonfloors.com & www. tetonblinds.com 37

SHOPPING TRIP

Maynards Market & Kitchen

Reilly Craft Pizza & Drink

perfectly restored. Recently spotted: a Saarinen dining table and Tulip chairs, plus a 1950s aqua cracked-ice chrome dinette set. 1132 E. Broadway; 520/882-3885; russellsretro.com

PLAY

Maynards Market & Kitchen

Saguaro National Park is home to an estimated 1.8 million towering Carnegiea gigantea, a.k.a. saguaro, as well as 1,200 other plant species, desert tortoise, black bear, Mexican spotted owl, and Arizona mountain king snakes. The park’s ninety-thousand-plus acres are divided into two divisions: the Rincon Mountain District (the East District) and the Tucson Mountain District (the West District). The Rincon Mountains rise to RANGE ISSUE TWO 38

8,600 feet, so that side has a greater biodiversity than the west, where the Tucson Mountains are 4,600 feet tall. Both sides have hiking trails and ranger-led programs. $10; 3693 Old Spanish Trail and 2700 N. Kinney Rd.; nps.gov/sagu Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum is a ninetyseven-acre outdoor facility dedicated to the flora and fauna of the surrounding desert and the nearby Gulf of California. Trails wind past exhibits like a hummingbird aviary, a canyon populated with bobcats and ocelots, and a riparian corridor where sleek river otters play.

The dramatic rock and glass restaurant and gallery complex is a desert modern design by Tucson firm Line and Space. $19.50; 2021 N. Kinney Rd.; 520/883-2702; desertmuseum.org Tohono Chul Park is part botanical garden,

Photography (clockwise from top left): Tim Fuller; Reilly Craft Pizza & Drink; Tom Spitz; Tim Fuller

Tucson firm Line and Space designed the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, including its Ocotillo CafĂŠ.

Built in 1930, the Arizona Inn is the grand dame of Tucson’s glamorous resorts and a national historic landmark.

part art gallery, and part cultural center: see specimen cactus, demonstration gardens, and seasonal blooms as well as work by Arizona artists here. Or do a bird walk, butterfly tour, or tai chi class. The Garden Bistro, located in what was once a gracious, private hacienda-style home designed by Josias Joesler protégé Lewis Hall in the early 1960s, serves one of the city’s best prickly pear margaritas. $10; 7366 N. Paseo del Norte; 520/742-6455; tohonochulpark.org

Photograph courtesy Arizona Inn

EAT WELL Maynards Market & Kitchen anchors one end of downtown’s still-active historic train depot, a restored 1907 Mission-style building. The Kitchen serves a classic dinner menu with entrees like bouillabaisse, filet with bearnaise sauce, and duck l’orange, and has a Wine Spectator-lauded wine list. The Market does pastries and lattes in the morning, then noodle bowls, vegan tamales, sandwiches, and salads. The name honors both Maynard Flood, a local railroad legend, and artist Maynard Dixon, who painted the depot’s murals. Kitchen: dinner daily; Market: breakfast and lunch daily; 400 N. Toole Ave.; 520/545-0577; maynardstucson.com Reilly Craft Pizza & Drink is especially popular around Halloween. Why? From 1908 to 1990, the two-story, Pueblo Deco-style building was the Reilly Funeral Home. In 2012, a trio of twentysomething siblings reopened it as a restaurant and beer garden, preserving its elegantly arched architecture and serving chewy, moist pizzas with such toppings as speck, egg, and Calabrian

salami. Also, they’ve got forty beers on tap. In 2014, the former casket showroom—down in the basement—was turned into a bar, the Tough Luck Club. Open daily for lunch and dinner; 101 E. Pennington; 520/882-5550; reillypizza.com

REST UP Tucson is known for its glamorous resorts, and The Arizona Inn is the grande dame. Built in 1930 by Isabella Greenway, a congresswoman and social activist, the ninety-five-room inn is a national historic landmark and still family owned. The pink-hued buildings are set on fourteen acres interspersed with manicured lawns, flower beds, and towering cypress. Rooms are detailed with handcrafted furnishings and original screen doors. Loll around the pool, play croquet or ping pong, take tea, or read in the library. It’s as though Herbert Hoover was still in office. Rooms from $109; 2200 E. Elm St.; 520/3251541; arizonainn.com The Downtown Clifton, a 1940s motor hotel, was restored and reopened earlier this year.

Located at the edge of the historic Barrio Viejo and Armory Park neighborhoods, the hotel’s ten rooms are decorated in vintage Tucson style—Mexican serape bedspreads, swag lamps, and even some original Raymond Loewy pieces.

Borrow Liberace or Bob Wills albums and a portable record player from the office. Breakfast is a $10 coupon good at nearby 5 Points Market & Restaurant, where you can get smoked salmon Benedict or chai. Rooms from $100; 485 S. Stone Ave.; 520/623-3163; downtowntucsonhotel.com 39

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SMALL LUXURIES With its pint-size luxury modular homes, Wheelhaus proves you can live large in small spaces.

By Kelly Bastone

Fireside Resort, on Teton Village Road, is comprised entirely of Wheelhaus cabins.

NO ONE WOULD EVER MISTAKE Jamie Mackay for a hobbit. Hale and broad-shouldered, the Wilson builder inherited his sturdy physique from his Glasgow-born father, Callum Mackay, who gave Jamie more than his Scottish genes: the log-home builder also imparted his love of woodworking. So it’s fitting that Jamie’s own home designs feature gorgeous Douglas fir and reclaimed barnwood. What’s astonishing is that these fine finishes appear on houses scaled for Bilbo Baggins.

Mackay is a tiny-house specialist. His company, Wheelhaus, builds modular cabins measuring just 400 square feet (and sometimes less: the “Silo” model comprises 348.5 square feet of living space). They’re mobile homes, requiring just two to five days to set up and connect to water, sewer, and electric services. But they’re impeccably designed and finished, with Kohler fixtures, stone countertops, and gleaming lumber. And they feel much larger than they are, thanks to patios and windows that blur the boundaries between indoors and out.

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DESIGN

“Smaller is harder because every inch counts,” says Wheelhaus founder Jamie Mackay. Mackay is partnering with Los Angeles-based upholstery carpenter Alex Chow to create furniture collections for each of the company’s cabin models.

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The exterior of each Wheelhaus cabin has a palette of no more than three materials.

“I love spaces that are well-designed,” says Mackay, who admits that most homes don’t pass his scrutiny. “Narrow hallways, I hate them,” he says. Also on Mackay’s blacklist: low ceilings, straight driveways (they expose houses to the road), and windows that aren’t centered on the walls. Thus his “Wedge” model uses an angled roof to give the living room a 12.5-foot ceiling (and yes, the massive sliding glass door is centered on the entry wall).

It takes tremendous design investment to make Wheelhaus dwellings feel spacious rather than cramped. “Smaller is harder because every inch counts,” Mackay says. “If you take two inches out of the kitchen to widen the hallway, you may not be able to fit any refrigerator,” he explains. But mastering the Jenga game has turned Wheelhaus into national news: Mackay’s first project, Fireside Resort (where “Wedge” and “Caboose” cabins occupy a former RV park) on the Teton Village Road, has earned accolades from such publications as USA Today, Time magazine, and Sunset.

Now, Mackay is partnering with Los Angelesbased designer/craftsman Alex Chow to create high-end furniture collections themed to each Wheelhaus model. “We both have a passion for wood,” says Chow, who’s made sofas for the likes of singer CeeLo Green. “And we both appreciate green materials and building methods.” Chow avoids glues containing Volatile Organic Compounds, and Mackay uses Douglas fir deadwood.

Mackay’s bigger designs (like his 1,560-squarefoot “Hitch Haus”) have their roots in small spaces—an approach he’s borrowed from architect Jonathan Foote. “Instead of building one big, monolithic structure, Foote uses breezeways to separate the house into pods so you can distance a bedroom from the ruckus of the central living area,” Mackay says.

But even in combination, little spaces can’t support a cluttered material palette. “Piling on too many colors or textures doesn’t work,” says Mackay (who limits each Wheelhaus to three materials, tops). “Less really is more, especially with smaller structures.”

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Just So An architect and his partner have wildly different styles.

Their compromises create a home as unique as they are.

By Joohee Muromcew ∙ Photography by Taylor Glenn

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Architect Larry Berlin lives with partner Pam Case in one of three sister houses he designed in East Jackson. The home’s exterior features clean lines and warm materials.

Inside it’s comfortable and eclectic.

V

isiting the home of a renowned architect can at times feel like a trip to a strange, foreign city: with rigorously straight lines, crisp edges, and all that impossibly uncluttered counter space, it’s nice to visit, but you wouldn’t want to live there. Jackson architect Larry Berlin’s house, therefore, completely defied my expectations.

Berlin and his partner, Pam Case, share an East Kelly Street home as gracious and personal as it is elegantly designed.

Berlin and Case, and their two cats Willy and Sammy, welcome me on a rainy Saturday night for a glass of wine. Berlin designed the house with input from Case, who is a development officer at the Jackson Hole Land Trust.

“Pam wanted it to be eclectic, interesting,” Berlin explains.

This echoes an earlier conversation about Berlin’s architectural work, now leaning toward more sculptural masses and increased use of color. He points out a richly hued tapestry hanging over the steel fireplace, and one could imagine him gratefully explaining that Case has made him more eclectic and interesting.

The exterior of the house, one of three in an urban compound of sister houses surrounding a courtyard, is strongly representative of Berlin’s work: clean lines with warm materials. Its interior, however, speaks to Berlin and Case’s very vibrant relationship. They are still quite captivated by each other and each other’s differences, and the space exhibits the constantly evolving conversation between these two very different sensibilities.

We gather around an ingenious people cache in their open kitchen—a round cocktail table built into a corner of the kitchen island. Case and Berlin have been discussing their favorite topic, travel, with a grand atlas opened up like a book of wishes. A trip to Milan and the coast of Italy is in the works, and our conversation turns to past and future journeys. There was the time in Paris when they engaged in a highbrow scavenger hunt of sorts for buildings designed by Le Corbusier. A birthday trip to Berlin was memorable for its quest for Berlin’s ancestry, taking them to Strasbourg, then France and then back to Niederbronn in Germany.

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One of the couple’s favorite hobbies is travel. If not planning an upcoming trip, mementos of past ones surround them, along with paintings by Berlin, seen in the background here.

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Berlin designed the kitchen to be slightly more traditional. The painted-gray china hutch is a gentle departure from the home’s more modern elements, like the striking black steel X-brace intersecting the large windows facing Kelly Street and the steel surround on the fireplace. He “didn’t want the kitchen to look like a chemistry lab,” Case says. Rather, it serves as a culinary diorama of previous adventures to Italy, Greece, Spain, and elsewhere. Colorful tins of smoked paprika from Spain and Hungary are stacked among the formal china. A riotous collection of cooking oils, vinegars, and wines cheerfully stand around the range and backsplash like a crowd of parade watchers.

“Sometimes it drives Larry crazy,” Case confides with a sideways smile, nodding at the beautifully cluttered counter space. Regardless of how they go about it, the pair love to cook and entertain, and the house lends itself to hosting both intimate and large parties. Case favors comforting stews and one-pot dishes simmered in her Staub pots, like hearty boeuf bourguignon and osso bucco. Berlin takes great pride in his pulled pork, cooked for sixteen hours in the Big Green Egg smoker-grill: “I put it in at midnight the night before, then I check on it all night. I love the whole process—lighting the fire, smelling the charcoal, and getting the temperature just right.”

Their home office space, set in a loft overlooking the kitchen, features an oversize partners desk of Berlin’s design. Its vertical-grain fir top echoes the trim on the walls, and the legs are simple steel tubes welded onto rollers. Berlin’s half of the table consists of trim stacks of notebooks and file folders. Case’s half represents an ambitious amount of reading to be done, including books, magazines, travel guides, and newspaper articles. A wire and metal mobile sculpture, one of Berlin’s works, hangs midpoint between the shared spaces.

Berlin’s sculpture and paintings mix in with a highly personal collection of art. The master bathroom, spacious and spa-like with Italian glass tiles and a concrete floor, is an unexpected spot for a Frank Gehry-designed bench made of corrugated cardboard. When asked if he worries about this iconic work of art being next to the bathtub, Berlin’s quiet sense of humor emerges. “[It] gives it character,” he says.

Walking down the staircase, a John Thompson mixed media collage begs for explanation. A childhood model airplane covered in newspaper papier-mâché floats on top of a distressed wood frame.

Every piece in their collection has a story behind it, and there’s often a personal connection to the artist.

No room could be more personal than the bedroom, and I enter the master suite feeling a little invasive. “It’s a work in progress,” Berlin says, noting the orange fiberglass bedside lamps are to be replaced, and he is not so satisfied with the linens. A cherished family heirloom of Case’s sits atop a sleek set of smooth, white drawers.

“I can tell which side of the bed you sleep on,” I say to Berlin. He takes a look and laughs. On Case’s nightstand is a travel guide to Italy and an issue of Bon Appétit opened up to a graphic photograph of some very voluptuous fried chicken. Berlin’s side? Three slim books, stacked and centered, all right angles perfectly aligned.

Top: A painting of Berlin’s hangs in the master bedroom.

Left: A Frank Gehry-designed bench of corrugated cardboard sits next to the master bath.

The house of an architect is always a work in progress: in the master bedroom, Berlin wants to change out these orange fiberglass bedside lamps and get new linens.

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Cultural

EXCHANGE

A South American family shares their Jackson Hole retreat.

By Elizabeth Clair Flood ∙ Photography by David Agnello

W

hen a family of well-traveled skiers from a Latin American metropolis discovered Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, they knew immediately they wanted a home here. They love their hectic hometown (pop. about ten million)—a capital city chock-full of skyscrapers, apartment buildings, and hovering helicopters, and buzzing with commerce and so much traffic that cabs have televisions in them to pass the time. But Jackson Hole’s natural tranquility inspired them. They loved the open space. And, of course, they loved the skiing; at JHMR they found a professional and friendly team that could accommodate all levels of skiers in their growing family.

“When we are in Jackson Hole, we rest our mind and make our body work—trekking, biking, and skiing,” says the head of the family.

After touring valley properties in 2013, they purchased a ski-in/ ski-out Granite Ridge lot. Sitting down with Jackson-based architect Stephen Dynia for the first time, the family presented some informal drawings. The couple imagined a contemporary house. They wanted it to be cozy, but it also had to have enough space for their large, extended family. They envisioned thirty beds.

Another requirement: they wanted to move into the new house and be skiing within eighteen months. “I don’t want to be a day older than sixty-five,” the owner told Dynia.

The initial design concepts for the Granite Ridge home originated in South America. “The family insisted I come stay with them at their home there for three weeks,” Dynia says. “They wanted me to see how they lived and engaged with family.”

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A Stephen Dynia-designed home in Teton Village is contemporary, yet cozy and has enough sleeping space for a large extended family.

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The 8,500-square-foot home nestled into a steep wooded lot had to meet the neighborhood’s mostly traditional building codes. Dynia and project architect Karen Parent managed to do that while still allowing the home to be progressive. The exterior is a mix of Oakley stone and grey-patinaed, repurposed wind fencing from Montana.

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The kitchen is by German company bulthaup.

After visiting family homes, meeting extended family and friends, and touring the family’s restaurants—enjoying local barbecue and cashew-apple drinks—Dynia returned to Jackson to create sketches with his team, headed by project architect Karen Parent. With the help of weekly Skype calls and an owners’ representative, the home, as well as a friendship, unfolded.

“They are incredibly gracious people,” Parent says. “Throughout the project, all of us really wanted to create something special, something they would enjoy. There was something about this family. We didn’t want to disappoint them on a personal level. There was always this feeling of wanting to do a really great job.”

“We started drawing something clean with

not a lot of ornament and very restrained,” Parent says. The 8,500-square-foot structure is nestled into the steep, woodsy lot and positioned away from neighboring houses. To the southwest, views include the tram, Corbet’s Couloir, and the dramatic north face of Pyramid Peak, south of the ski resort’s boundaries.

“The house is not what I call earth-shattering,” says Dynia, who for over twenty years has created plenty of earth-shattering (for this area) spaces. He has thrived on challenging Jackson’s traditional mountain aesthetic with materials like steel, glass, concrete, and rusted metal, and also with innovative, eyebrow-raising designs. In the late 1990s, when he designed two cubes—28 feet wide, 28 feet deep, and 28 feet tall with 55

about 750 square feet of living space over two floors and also a rooftop garden—and tucked them into a messy downtown alley, you’d have thought Jackson as we knew it was going to end.

Since then, he’s successfully placed modern volumes and concepts, industrial materials, remarkable glass walls, rooftop terraces, and subterranean living spaces into magnificent natural surroundings. Perhaps most remarkably he has managed to do this while sometimes also working within strict (and traditional) neighborhood design guidelines, which was the case with this home.

“With this project we had very strict regulations,” Dynia says. “We played along really well.” Within the regulations, Dynia and

Parent still managed to design a simple, modern, elegant, timeless space. The end result, subtle and progressive, passes the neighborhood codes and invites even the most skeptical mountain cabin aficionado to embrace the design.

The exterior is conservative but innovative: a mix of Oakley stone stacked walls—commonly used in this valley—and recycled grey patina wood from discarded Montana wind fencing.

Large and simple energy-efficient windows by Bildau & Bussmann accent the rustic interior and frame views, both grand and intimate throughout the home. A back porch, paved with Frontier stone, is a main outdoor space and also connects skiers to a path leading directly to the Apres Vous chairlift.

Inside, the home wows. “There are no wooden trusses here,” Dynia says. Calm is evoked throughout with a muted palette of paneled oak walls and floors and white walls. Built-in furniture and lots of storage liberate the home from clutter.

The ceilings stretch high, picture windows provide magnificent views, strategically placed skylights filter natural light, and great expanses of white

walls lay flat with perfection. Chris Kiernam of Two Ocean Builders, who built the home, says this is no easy task: “every line in a contemporary home has to be precise to create the effect.”

As the owners stated from the beginning, the house had to work for their extended family.

Some bedrooms can accommodate—via bunks— entire nuclear families. In total, there are six bedrooms, all with their own bathrooms. There are electrical outlets for iPods and iPads next to beds. There are plenty of drawers for storage and hooks for ski parkas and hats. Two TV rooms invite guests to relax. “They wanted to make everyone feel comfortable,” Parent says.

Because family gatherings revolve around cooking and enjoying good food, the family chose to install a bulthaup kitchen. The German company is known for its style, craftsmanship, and high functionality. “Cooking is something we love to do. We spend so much time in the kitchen,” the owner says.

Stainless-steel surfaces, open shelving, a special area for baking, and high-end appliances characterize the kitchen. There are two counters

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for seating. A long window facing east catches both the rising sun and ski runs.

Throughout the home the owners’ style— contemporary, sophisticated, and personal— works with Dynia’s modern space. “We did the interior design ourselves, because we knew what we wanted: a simple and clean interior,” the owner says. After doing research on the Internet and shopping in New York and Chicago, the couple bought what they needed. They chose comfortable, modern couches from Mobili Mobel and B&B Italia. A TV room has chairs from Danish designer Poul Kjærholm. Philipp Mainzer designed the dining room table, and the chairs around it are from Luminaire in Chicago by Naoto Fukasawa. The beds, except for the several that Dynia custom-designed, are from TEAM 7 and designed by Jacob Strobel. An old Navajo rug tacked to the wall in the TV room is one of the few pieces purchased in town.

The family moved in on time, and with the house built on budget. The clients were thrilled and laughed that, the first winter, they spent more time enjoying the house than skiing.

The owners did the interior design themselves, selecting couches from Mobili Mobel and B&B Italia, chairs from Danish designer Poul KjĂŚrholm, and a dining room table by Philipp Mainzer.

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The

TREASURE CHEST With a to-the-bones remodel, a young couple reveal the charm of a formerly dilapidated downtown rental property.

• before •

By Lila Edythe ∙ Photography by David Agnello

B Opposite: Kristin Frappart and Tom Fay spent six months remodeling a 1,200-square-foot East Jackson bungalow built in 1925. (When we photographed them, they still had to paint the siding, in Sherwin-Williams flagstone, a charcoal grey).

uilt in 1925 and haphazardly added on to over the ensuing nine decades, the house had seven-foot ceilings, some of which were collapsing. Part of what wasn’t collapsing had significant water damage. Nothing was square. Windows rattled when the wind blew. Heck, walls rattled when the wind blew.

The front deck had long ago settled at a tilt. Still, the day it went on the market late last summer, Tom Fay and Kristin Frappart made a fullprice offer on the 1,200-square-foot house on Hansen Street. Not even the seller’s agent could believe it. “ ‘Really? ’ he asked,” recounts Fay, the founder of Pinky G’s pizzeria. “ ‘You’re sure?’ ” Marrying in September 2015, the thirty-something couple, who were both born and raised here—Frappart grew up only several blocks away—were sure. “It was affordable by Jackson standards,” Frappart says. “It was the only place in East Jackson in the last couple of months that sold for under $500,000.” Fay had had his eye on the house for a few years. “I drove by it all the time,” he says. “I had an idea that it could be a great house.” Fay went so far as to research who owned the home. “I had heard stories of people writing letters directly to owners asking that they notify them if they ever wanted to sell,” Fay says. “I wrote a letter to the owner, but never had the courage to send it.” Fay did submit the letter with their offer, though. “I don’t know if this is 59

true or not, but I like to think the letter hit home with the seller. They got other offers at the asking price, but we were the lucky ones who got it.”

The two knew the home, which had been a rental for as long as anyone could remember and was quite the party house, needed work. “We planned on repairing the water-damaged area of the ceiling,” Fay says. Four days after closing the couple started in on that project themselves. But, “The next thing we knew, the whole place was gutted,” says Frappart, who has been the lead interior designer at Trauner Designs for the last five years and recently became a partner (Trauner Designs is now Trauner Fay Designs). “Looking into repairing the ceiling, we learned it would be more extensive than we had thought. Every time we thought there was an end to the demolition, we’d find a new problem that was just easier to demo than to repair.” By the time the two had finished the demolition, all that was left was the skeleton of the house.

The couple bought few new pieces for the home: the bar stools came from a client of Kristin’s who was remodeling, and the vintage travel trunk came from Tom’s family. The library ladder is custom.

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Frappart is shown in the kitchen, where Karman cabinetry is topped with Zodiaq snow white quartz.

The chrome pendants are by Possini. Throughout the home, floors are Canadian hickory.

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Top left: A print of a gun painting from Andy Warhol’s Death and Disaster series hangs at the entrance to the home. Top right: The couple turned one of the former bedrooms into a television room. Bottom: The master bath has a walk-in shower and tub, both done with Daltile subway tiles. Full Circle Frameworks did the custom mirror.

“We weren’t looking for a remodel this big,” Fay says. Frappart adds, “We couldn’t afford a big remodel.

But that’s what the house needed. So we ended up doing as much of it as we could ourselves.” The couple found out early on that town has a noise curfew: 10:00 p.m. “Ninety-five percent of the house was done between 5 and 9 p.m. and on weekends,” Frappart says.

As the couple stumbled upon problem after problem, they began to understand why they were one of the few people to bid on the house that didn’t want to scrap it.

“The way this house is zoned, someone could have built an office building here,” says Frappart. “Lots of buyers wanted to have their way with it, but we saw the charm.

Today it’s perfect. We call it our treasure chest.”

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HOME SWEET HOME

By Charlie Craighead, as told to Dina Mishev ∙ Illustration by Erick Nelson

THE BIG QUESTION EVERY YEAR is when we’ll have to start skiing or snowmobiling in to our house on Antelope Flats in Grand Teton National Park. For years and years it was pretty consistent—by Thanksgiving we’d be snowed in, and it wouldn’t be until early to mid-May that we’d be able to drive again. The Park Service actually offered to plow the driveway for us—there are about six houses out here and three of them are lived in year-round—but we said no.

The wind is such that they’d have to plow and plow. Once, when I was college age, I tried to keep the driveway open; all I did that winter was plow. It’s really just much

easier to walk or ski. Unless there’s been a big storm, the trail stays pretty packed. It takes about ten minutes to walk the half-mile. I think everyone out here likes that time outside, whether they’re coming home at night or walking out in the morning in a blizzard. I know it has become a necessary part of my day. I like the feeling of being isolated. We really aren’t, but it feels that way.

Spring, summer, and fall it’s not snow but bison. We love having them—they’re fun to watch—but they are pretty destructive. Two came up onto our deck once and collapsed it. They’ve also knocked my canoe off sawhorses and trampled all over the yard with it. They seem to do things like this when no one’s home. There won’t be a bison in sight when we leave, but when we come home, there’s stuff all over the yard.

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