CHEF'S CHOICE

Matthew Raiford

By OSAYI ENDOLYN Photography by GREGORY MILLER

chef and farmer matthew raiford grew up in brunswick, georgia, but jekyll island is where the james beard award semifinalist spent much of his early childhood. This was the early 1970s and his mother, then a domestic worker, would bring Raiford along to her jobs. “I’d head to the pier with my fishing pole or my crab bucket and hang out until her day was done,” Raiford says. For him, the island’s natural habitat was its biggest draw. It still is. Even with recent development efforts, he continues, “[the state] has kept nature at the forefront of everything. It’s amazing.”

As Raiford entered his teenage years, that island shine began to wither under the gaze of adolescence. He dreamed of leaving coastal Georgia and all the familial history his cozy community held at the ready— his great-grandfather was the bird keeper at Crane Cottage at the Jekyll Island Club; his grandmother worked in the home of a renowned chef on the island; their farmland in Brunswick had been in the family since 1874. So he left. After nine years in the Army and a close encounter with a would-be career as a physical therapist, Raiford eventually found himself as executive chef of catering for the House of Representatives in

Washington, D.C. His grandmother, anxious to continue the lineage of the family farm, invited Raiford and his sister to take it up. By 2010, Raiford was back home, his flag firmly planted.

Raiford doesn’t have much time for crabbing on Jekyll these days. He is chef and co-owner (or “CheFarmer,” as he likes to be called) of the Farmer and the Larder, the Brunswick Southern-style restaurant he runs with his partner, Jovan Sage. They offer Sunday brunch, cooking classes, and special events and tastings. Their recently opened second restaurant, Strong Roots Provisions, celebrates the myriad cultures that touched down in the historic port city—West African, Dutch, German, Portuguese, among others. When he's not running his restaurants, Raiford manages the family's Gilliard Farms. But when he can, Raiford still squeezes in quality island time. For the last three years, he’s emceed the cooking competition for the annual Jekyll Island Shrimp and Grits Festival, where professional chefs compete for the best interpretation of the dish. “It’s probably the premier event on the island next to things that have to do with turtles,” he says. And over time, he’s managed to expand his list of must-dos beyond casting a line out from the pier.

Matthew’s JEKYLL ISLAND PICKS

-

RAIFORD SAYS -

“I’ve been there for brunch, and it’s like your hair is blown back with the amount of food that comes out. But you’ve got to do the fresh seafood and oysters on the half shell.”

The waterfront location is spectacular, and the menu puts a spotlight on Southern specialties, from peel-and-eat Georgia shrimp to local white quail served with collards and red rice. Enjoy an edible tour of the region while taking in views of the marsh and Jekyll Creek. 371 Riverview Drive, 912635-3612, jekyllwharf.com

What’s a beach bar scene without an Irishinspired pub? Plenty of Guinness and brown liquor flow in this green-hued space, but Raiford comes to get a pulse on what’s happening. The bread pudding is legendary. 20 Main Street, #100, 912-574-2337, theweepub.com

-

Even a chef who crafts his own gelato and desserts like chocolate-coconut pot de crème still gets a hankering for grade school–era treats. 50 Ben Fortson Parkway, 912-635-2573, dairyqueen.com

- RAIFORD SAYS -

Located in the Jekyll Ocean Club not far from bustling Beach Village, this open-air dining room is a popular spot for vacationers. The view of the Atlantic is hard to resist—as are the raw bar, their solid offerings of classic cocktails, and bites such as a pimento cheese ball served with housebaked naan. 371 Riverview Drive, 855535-9547, jekyllclub.com/jekyllisland-restaurants/eighty-oceankitchen-and-bar

For a hint of Baja, Mexico, with a splash of tiki party, this festive atmosphere pairs well with a cerveza or salty margarita, especially when the cover band is jamming. 201 North Beachview Drive, 912-3422600, tortugajacks.com

You’ll have to compete with locals for a table at this low-key spot inside the Villas by the Sea Resort on Jekyll’s quieter north end. The menu specializes in homey classics such as pot roast and peach cobbler, with plenty of Lowcountry seafood to satisfy. 1175 North Beachview Drive, 912-635-3588, driftwoodbistro.com

Jekyll Island is home to twenty-eight restaurants and specialty eateries, many of which are located in historic buildings or just off the water. Browse a complete list of food and drink options—coffeehouses, sweets shops, casual family spots, fine dining, and more—at jekyllisland.com/dining.

Coasting down the smooth pavement along Ben Fortson Parkway, you try to wave at the oncoming cyclists. But you decide to keep hold of both handlebars and steady your own wobbling bicycle as you turn to cross the road and enter the forest. Gravel crunches beneath the tires. A tunnel of leaves and branches closes behind you. The breeze sweeps the sweat from your brow as you pick up speed. A squirrel scampers alongside, as if to join the joyride. Suddenly adrift in a maritime wilderness, you are twelve again. You stop and reach for the map. Unseen beasts rustle in the brush; crickets harmonize with their rhythmic whir. You leave the map in your pocket and press on, lost in the heart of the island, pushing forward without fear.

—tony rehagen

Fresh, local cuisine and lively entertainment on a fabulous riverfront setting