05 - 24.09 » THEATER by THE SEA

THE pERISTylE AnD THE CATHEDRAl OF ST DOMnIuS (pERISTIl I KATEDRAlA Sv. DuJMA) Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor’s tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian’s rule do remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian’s victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding area and the nearby port.QJ‑2.

vElI vAROš Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It’s well worth taking a stroll around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split.QH‑2. time museum is undoubtedly one. It’s located inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, and subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire. Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model ships through the ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to twentieth-century cruise liners. Also lying around are all manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval uniforms. Most striking exhibit is the room devoted to the ground-breaking torpedoes developed by the WhiteheadLupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka. To finish off, you can look around an outdoor display of beached boats while serenaded by shrieking peacocks – a colony of which roams free on the east side of the fortress.QK‑2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. (+385‑21) 34 73 46, www.hpms.hr. Open 09:00‑20:00; closed Sun. Admission 20/10 kn.

Ivan Meštrović Museums Archives

MuSeuMS

ARCHAEOlOGICAl MuSEuM (ARHEOlOšKI MuzEJ) Even though it’s situated north of the town centre, Split’s archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum in Croatia. The museum’s contents come mainly from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various historical periods including pre-historic, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval.QC‑2, Zrinsko ‑ Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385‑21) 32 93 40, www. armus.hr. Open 09:00‑14:00, 16:00‑20:00; closed Sun. Ad‑ mission 40/20 kn.

CROATIAn MARITIME MuSEuM SplIT (HRvATSKI pOMORSKI MuzEJ SplIT) Spend all your time cocooned in the old town and you’ll miss out on many of Split’s more quirky delights, of which the mariETHnOGRApHIC MuSEuM SplIT (ETnOGRAFSKI MuzEJ SplIT) If you’re into making an in-depth examination of Croatia’s cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you’re in luck. Split’s Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910 and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised in the region over the years.QJ‑3, Severova 1, tel. (+385‑21) 34 41 61, www.etnografski‑muzej‑split.hr. Open 09:30‑19:00; Sat 10:00‑17:00; closed Sun. Admission 20/10 kn. Vestibul 5 kn.

GAME OF THROnES MuSEuM The majestic HBO series has had many of its scenes recorded throughout Croatia, including Split. In-fact, only a stone throw from the museum itself is Diocletian’s basements where Khaleesi put the dragons in captivity. The museum includes weapon and garment replicas, several thematic rooms dedicated to key cities and characters, photographs taken on the film set, Sandor and more. Step aside and make space for some photos with the likes of Daenerys, Arya Stark, Jon Snow, Hodor and many others.QI‑2, Bosanska ulica 9, tel. (+385‑) 099 694 03 12, www.gameofthronesmuseum.hr. Open 09:00‑22:00; Mon, Thu, Fri 10:00‑20:00. J IvAn MEšTROvIć MuSEuMS - MEšTROvIć GAllERy AnD THE CRIKvInE - KAšTIlAC Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as a stonecutter’s apprentice to an exalted position in the international art scene. Meštrović’s influences ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual style. The display includes an impressive selection of his large-scale works, alongside religiously-inspired works and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was also famous for the huge works he produced for public spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split (see “Landmarks”). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South Bend, Indiana in 1962. A five-minute walk further west along the same road is the