By Sandra Woodward
On any given Saturday in the fall, twO Of the SOuth’S favOrite SubjectS— food and football—come together in an elaborate spectacle of Southern hospitality. From NCAA Division One institutions to smaller schools, students, alumni, and fans of all forms pack up their portable grills and converge on campuses across the South to watch their teams compete on the football field and to participate in the sports fan’s second-favorite pastime: tailgating. Tailgating may not have originated in the South—supposedly Princeton and Rutgers claim that honor with their 1869 first-ever football matchup. But Southerners wasted no time in imparting signature style and grace to something as mundane as eating out of the trunk of a car (or from a horsedrawn wagon in the early days). As difficult as it may be for today’s college students to fathom, at one time tailgating was an act of necessity, not entertainment. Before interstate highways and their ubiquitous fast-food outlets, an infinite variety of readily available food at a reasonable price could not always be assured. Travelers had to plan for the unexpected, and a trip of even half a day might well involve packing at least one meal. But what began as a practical solution to the problem of preventing starvation has evolved into a popular-culture
phenomenon, with even the home team’s local fans schlepping food across town just to be a part of the experience. As these pages illustrate, the fans define what makes a proper tailgate: one may be formal, with elegant tableware and gourmet-quality food and wine, while another may be strictly burgers, brats, and beer. In the long run, it matters little whether the tailgate menu features hot dogs and beans or pâté and champagne. Tailgating is not really about the food, although that may be a secret best kept from the cook. It’s just another excuse for conviviality, for connecting with friends old and new in the college-campus setting that promises—and delivers, if only for a day—the energy and excitement of perpetual youth. Bon appétit!
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