PATMOS A landmark of Christendom.

Patmos

A view of Hora and its castle.

A landmark of Christendom

© SIME/VISUALHELLAS.GR A BUSINESS

MEETING AFFORDS

THE OPPORTUNITY

FOR A TOUR OF THIS

ISLAND’S FAMED

MONASTERY AND

A LOOK INTO ITS

STIRRING HISTORY.

ΒΥ CHRISTOS ZAMPOUNIS

T

THE HOUSE I’M STAYING in is a sea captain’s house. From the top floor, the captain could keep an eye on things in the port at Skala, and was able to see whether his crew was working or slacking off. The maritime trade is nothing new here. It was 1088 AD when Emperor Alexios I Komninos issued an imperial bull granting the monastery a license to trade at sea. Since then, Patmos has been inextricably linked with sea commerce and Greek naval history.

Some of the furniture in the house, such as the mirrors and hall console tables, were brought back by the shipping magnates of the times from their travels to other European ports. Other pieces, including wooden couches, tables, and chairs, were made by local master carpenters. On the walls hang platters with naturalistic motifs, and one – my favorite – has a crown painted on it. In the past, these would have only been brought out on formal occasions, serving mainly as displays of wealth.

Over 500 mansions like this survive in Hora. Half of them, perhaps more, have passed into foreign hands. The monastery still owns a few of them, but mostly they are owned by enlightened foreigners – or equally enlightened Greeks. Given that the law on preservation forbids any external alterations, any deviations from the historical design are to be found in the interiors, where walls are often knocked down to enlarge once small rooms and create more spacious bedrooms.

Looking towards Skala and Etia.

These interventions aside, the traditional look of these houses has been preserved, which is a miracle in a country with a history of unregulated building. The designation of the Monastery of St John the Theologian as the UNESCO World Heritage Monument in 1999 safeguarded the unspoiled character of the town, put a stop to ambitions developers, and closed the door on those looking to import less reverent lifestyles.

The time is 07:00 and I’m searching my cellphone for the app showing the location of the boat I’m going to meet. The Blue Star is currently off Leros. I estimate that this gives me enough time to get to the port on foot. The old path intersects the modern road at several points, but for the most part maintains its authenticity. The enchanting view causes me to stumble among the stones, so I decide to focus instead on where I’m walking. A little later, I lift my gaze again, startled by loud birdsong. In the branches of an almond tree, I spot two bird nests, with two adults busy feeding their chicks.

A royal sighting

The visitor I’m going to meet is John, an English financier who’s interested in buying a property on the island. He has friends who have done so already, and more importantly, is a Byzantine history buff. The choice of Patmos, he explains to me later, was a no-brainer. As we wait for his rental car, he reminds me of the unchanging laws of real estate. The best locations have been selected for the gods, as places of worship. Second come soldiers, for obvious strategic reasons of command and control. Third come the artists, who have an eye for pleasing places. Fourth – and he points to himself – the wealthy.

I ask him what he plans to do once he’s installed himself in his quarters. “First of all, I’d like you to take me to the monastery and the Cave of the Revelation.” It is his turn for questions, and he asks me how long I have been coming to Patmos. “This year,” I say, “it will be 40 years. I first came at the invitation of a classmate in Tour Guide school, and I’ve been coming back on and off ever since. More recently, I’ve been involved in Patmos 360, a rental platform for mansions in Hora, as well as with Greece Sotheby’s International Realty, as you well know.” Our conversation drifts to lighter subjects as we climb towards our destination. We touch on the strife in the British royal family. “I hear Prince Charles has been here?” he says, making it a question. “I’ve a funny story to tell you about that,” I say. “In the mid1990s, my pregnant French wife and I, along with a group of friends, rented the house you’ll be staying in. On the day we arrived, I asked Prince Michael of Greece, a regular visitor to the island, which remote beach he’d recommend for swimming. He suggested Livadi tou Geranou. When we arrived there, we discovered we were not alone. A tall, athletic-looking man stood on the beach, while another man reclined on a towel under a beach umbrella reading a book. “Le Prince Charles!” exclaimed my 16-year-old French godson. I responded that the heir to the British throne was neither tall nor blond, and nor was he so athletic. “Not the standing man, the one lying down,” he corrected me with great certainty.

The Cave of the Revelation, where according to the scriptures, St John the Theologian heard the voice of God.

The Monastery of St John the Theologian was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1999.

The boatyard of Patmos is one of the few remaining in Greece that builds and repairs wooden boats.

Because they were some distance from us – we had discreetly picked a spot further away so as not to crowd them – I wasn’t immediately able to verify this information. When I did eventually pluck up the courage to walk over and greet the man, I realised that it was, indeed, him. He was reading a book by the Byzantinologist Sir Steven Runciman, “The Rise and Fall of the Byzantine Empire,” and was kind enough to exchange a few words with me, mainly regarding his cousin Constantine.

IN THE CHAPEL OF THE VIRGIN, THE LIGHT IS STRONGER AND THE ART IS MORE ROBUST. THE FRESCOES ARE BYZANTINE, AND DATE TO THE 12TH CENTURY.

The Monastery and the Cave of the Revelation

We reach the Town Hall Square, where we park. My guest is drawn to the statue of Emmanuel Xanthos. “Last year, we celebrated the 200th anniversary of the Greek Revolution. This gentleman, who was born here, was one of its prime instigators as a member of the Filiki Eteria – a secret society founded with the aim of overthrowing Ottoman rule,” I inform him. He stops, and then walks a little further off. “Amazing view. What islands are those?” “To the west is Ikaria, to the north, in the distance, is Samos. To the east is the Arkii cluster, and Lipsi.”

Our good fortune continues as Father Theodosios joins us in the monastery courtyard. He was a monk on Mt Athos, but was transferred here to reinforce his few remaining colleagues on the island. Although he’s now of a certain age, he has boundless energy and a clear gaze, full of kindness.

We start our tour in the church vestibule. As if reading John’s mind as he looks at the columns, our host explains that they originally belonged to the Temple of Artemis, which once occupied the site where the monastery was built. We’re stunned by a scene of extreme violence, with young soldiers slaughtering infants with their daggers while mothers fight to save them – a fresco depicting the biblical massacre of the innocents by King Herod.

The remaining frescoes depict milder subject matter, such as the Parable of the Ten Virgins. I ask Father Theodosios to show us the “Incredulity of St Thomas.” Politely, he takes my phone and turns on the flashlight function, illuminating a niche under an arch where that artwork hides. Next to it is the “Noli mi tangere” scene from the Bible, in which Mary Magdalene recognised Christ after the resurrection.“Do not touch me,” I translate.

In the Chapel of the Virgin, the light is stronger and the art is more robust. The frescoes are Byzantine, and date to the 12th century. Our guide pulls aside a curtain to reveal an icon of the Mother and Child. My guest remains rooted to the spot, ecstatic.

Eventually, our tour moves to the Museum, with its priceless collection of manuscripts, ecclesiastical robes and objects, Byzantine icons – one of which is attributed to El Greco – and antiquities. At the end, John asks about the “Clarke Plato.” Father Theodosios tells the story of the English traveler Clarke, who, according to one version of the tale, bribed the abbot of the monastery and acquired from him the oldest surviving manuscript of Plato’s Dialogues. Today, it graces the collection of the Bodleian Library in Oxford.

Our next stop is the Cave of the Revelation. According to tradition and the written testimony of St John himself, this is where he heard the voice of God and dictated to his student Prochoros the Holy Book of Revelation. Our host at this world landmark of Christendom is Father Isidoros. For years, he’s been the guardian of the Cave, protecting it from disrespect. John’s attention is drawn to an icon on the altarpiece of the 15th-century church depicting the vision of the Revelation. “Please inform our friend that God spoke to St John in

A special element of the houses are the gray or ochre stones around doors and windows, called mantomata. Μany traditional houses have been preserved nearly intact.

the Greek language, and that St John also wrote it down in Greek,” were the parting words of our monk guide. “I believe there’s also an interesting convent, do you think we should visit?” my indefatigable companion asks. “I think visiting hours are between 9 and 11 in the morning,” I say, “so it’ll be closed now, but let me call the Abbess Christonymfi and introduce you. She’s a determined individual who’s responsible for reviving female monasticism on the island. Thanks to her, the Convent of the Evangelismos (“Annunciation”) is one of the most dynamic and welllooked-after in Greece.”

Having fed our spirits, we returned to material realities. “Do you like chickpeas?” I ask my guest. “Very much,” he responds. “Great! We’ll dine at a seaside taverna in the Bay of Grikos, where this particular dish will have you licking your fingers.” “That sounds good.” •

WHERE TO EAT The arrival of Benetou (Tel. (+30) 22470.330.89) in Sapsila raised local gastronomic standards, and it added a sister establishment in Hora last year. The fish taverna Lambis (Tel. (+30) 22470.314.90) on the beach of the same name, Flisvos (Tel. (+30) 22470.313.80) and Ktima Petra (Tel. (+30) 22470.332.07) in Grikos Bay, Pleiades (Tel. (+30) 22470.330.34) in Sapsila, Tarsanas Marine Club (Tel. (+30) 22470.321.59) in Diakofti, Trehantiri (Tel. (+30) 22470.340.80), Hiliomodi (Tel. (+30) 22470.341.79), To Tsipouradio Mas (Tel. (+30) 22470.328.03), and Netia (Tel. (+30) 22470.313.29) in Skala, and Vaggelis (Tel. (+30) 22470.319.67) in Hora are all noteworthy eateries.

COFFEE & DRINKS On the central square in Skala, people meet up at Petrino (Tel. (+30) 22470.314.22), Houston (Tel. (+30) 22470.316.88), and the historic Arion (Tel. (+30) 22470.315.95). In Hora, the first choice for morning coffee or afternoon tea is Loza (Tel. (+30) 22470.324.05), while in Kampos the perennial choice is Atmos (Tel. (+30) 22470.318.81). In the evenings, a young crowd can be found at Kasbah (instagram. com/kasbahpatmos).

BEACHES In addition to Psili Ammos Beach, which is largely protected from wind and waves, Patmos offers many choices for swimming, from family beaches with full facilities at Kampos and Agriolivado to less developed options such as Didimi, Livadi, Geranos and Petra.