BRian SChWaRTz
Polo grill chef Justin Donaldson, left, with general manager michael Funk.
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Oklahoma Magazine | JULY 2013
The Bento Box is a popular choice at gogo Sushi express and grill.
F AV E S
Hungry MidTown Oklahoma Citians now have an option for sushi on the go at the second location – the first being in Moore – of this fast-casual sushi joint. Diners may enjoy traditional appetizers like edamame or gyoza, or they may want to venture out of their comfort zone and begin a meal with salmon skin salad. Bento boxes offer a little bit of everything: teriyaki chicken or beef, grilled salmon, shrimp tempura or Korean-style short ribs are complemented with steamed rice, tempura veggies, house
THE BUZZ
BRENT FUCHS
GOGO SUSHI EXPRESS AND GRILL
salad, a California roll and miso soup. Daily lunch specials begin at $5.99, and tables fill up quickly with hungry workers looking for a filling meal that leaves a little extra money in their pockets. 432 NW 10th St., Oklahoma City; and 1611 S. I-35 Service Road, Moore. www.gogosushinow.com – Jami Mattox Chef marcus Vause creates his culinary specialties in the kitchen of Tavolo.
TAVOLO Head downtown to the Art Deco jewel in Tulsa’s crown, the 1928 Philtower, and right next to the glowing, ethereal cathedral ceiling of the lobby, you’ll find Tavolo, owned by chef and restaurateur Justin Thompson. Bistro-like tables dressed in white linen, exposed brick walls, a grand bar and a sweeping staircase all combine intimacy with sophistication. But all this is merely a setting for the food. The menu is “rooted in Italian,” says Chef Marcus Vause, with elements – some familiar, others not – from every region of Italy. But it’s Italian like you’ve never had before. Each dish is visually stunning “Simple flavors in vibrant exciting combination” is how Vause describes his dishes. Still, the simplest flavors in the simplest dish may take hours of hard work. The linguini with tomato sauce features hand-peeled tomatoes marinated for hours combined with a pureed sauce that isn’t cooked. How does he do that? “I have few secrets, but this is one
BRIAN SCHWARTZ
Taste
first at Cafe Gray alongside virtuoso chef Gray Kunz, and then at Gilt, which New York magazine described as “unabashedly expensive, almost painfully sleek,” where Donaldson worked with British wünderkind Paul Liebrandt, world-famous for cutting-edge creativity. Donaldson strolls over. Lanky, intent, he’s a man lucky enough to be immersed in work he loves. Does he love working in Oklahoma? “The produce here is amazing,” he exults. “I want to let these ingredients speak for themselves and build my dishes around their flavors.” Donaldson showcases his own creativity in nightly entree specials and innovative monthly wine dinners. The regular menu, though, seeks to strike a balance between avant-garde and tradition while still maintaining quality. Taking a menu from one of the dark-suited waiters, Funk points to a strip steak on the menu. “Midwest raised, USDA Prime, aged 28 days,” says Funk, who went to Kansas City to tour the facility to make sure it met his exacting standards. Some of Tulsa’s finest chefs got their start at Polo Grill: Justin Thompson, Grant Vespasian (who worked there after cooking at Palace Cafe), Michelle Donaldson, Paul Caplinger, Paul Wilson. Then they went on to found restaurants of their own. How can Polo Grill stand out from the pack? “I’ve learned a lot from the New York chefs,” says Donaldson, “and I’ve made it my own. I’ll use what I learned to produce the sort of dishes you’d expect to find only in New York or California: something new, something different, something unique.” “We want to retain our identity, who we are,” adds Funk, “and still strive and move forward.” 2038 Utica Square, Tulsa. www. pologrill.com
of them,” he says. Porchetta, a classic roast from Lazio, features pork belly, tenderloin and a Milanese gremolata carefully layered, cooked sous-vide and then gently fried. It takes 48 hours to make. Pansotti, a kind of ravioli from Liguria, is stuffed with rich foie gras. Scallops are accented with pancetta, sweetbreads and lemon vinaigrette. All this deceptively simple harmony on a plate is the product of lots of hard work, but if you peek into the kitchen while Vause is plating the dishes, chances are you’ll see him smiling. 427 S. Boston Ave., Tulsa. www.tavolotulsa. com – Brian Schwartz
What do you want to eat? Check out our online restaurant guide at www.okmag.com